The RunOut Podcast – Details, episodes & analysis

Mary Eden is known on Instagram as Trad Princess but in real life, she’s one of the sport’s best offwidth crack climbers. Recently she acheived the first female ascent of Century Crack, perhaps the world’s longest and hardest wide roof crack. 

But first, we talk about what everyone’s talking about. Alex Honnold and Taipei 101. To listen to the full intro bit, however, you’ll need to head over to Patreon.com/runoutpodcast to become a supporter of the show. With just a few more subscribers, we’ll make as much money as Honnold did free soloing Taipei.

Today’s final bit comes from the heavy metal band Bygone, with Canmore-based climber Noah Stachulski on guitar. When Noah’s not contemplating dry-tooling ethics, he’s debating his music bros on how to classify different genres of metal. Little surprise these the two worlds go together so well.

Show Notes

Mary Eden Becomes First Woman to Send ‘Century Crack’ (5.14b) https://www.climbing.com/news/mary-eden-trad-princess-first-female-ascent-century-crack/

Follow Mary Catherine Eden on Instagram https://instagram.com/tradprincess

Alex Honnold Completes Historic Live Climb of Taipei 101 https://www.netflix.com/tudum/articles/how-to-watch-alex-honnold-skyscraper-climb-live-netflix

Bygone on Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/artist/7ii5T8TaNV9XpG2mOkwslf?si=yqRUoJa3QzG11wC4oxoKKg

Follow Noah Stachulski on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/atthemountainsofradness/

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Just when you though you understood what a zone hold was … Hasn’t the comp climbing format already been “solved?” Some think there is room for improvement, including Charlie Boscoe, an alpinist turned World Cup commentator. He is the co-founder of the Professional Climbing League, a new comp series launching in London on February 28.

But first, Chris sings praise of a crag where people know how to operate, and the wheat is separated from the chaff. Unfortunately, it turns out the chaff is Andrew.

For our final bit, friend of the show Christopher Parker returns with the namesake track off his new album, Withered Roses, dropping January 30th. 

Show notes

Professional Climbing League: https://www.proclimbing.com

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@ProClimbingLeague

Follow the PCL: https://www.instagram.com/proclimbingleague/

Follow Charlie Boscoe: https://www.instagram.com/charlieboscoe1/

Western Sloper: https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/shop-all-guidebooks/p/western-sloper-4th-edition

Christopher Parker Music: https://christopherparkermusic.com

Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/artist/6qZrlQIIBrZGDvx69AXmus?si=try9WEw7T86bNvCw770smQ

Apple Music: https://music.apple.com/us/artist/christopher-parker/9258292

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Will Moss is a trad climber originally from New York. He recently flashed Free Rider on El Capitan, becoming the first to do it in a day and only the second person ever to flash an El Cap free climb. Will’s preparation to flash this route was insanely detailed, involving pouring over every video clip he could find, and person he could talk to. He even trained on simulators for the crux. Will shares the whole story of his groundbreaking ascent here.

But first, what’s better than having a project? Sharing a project with your partner. We talk about all the ways that working on a route together can bring you closer to your friend—until it doesn’t.

Today’s Final Bit is courtesy of Rob Seaver and his band FOND, based out of Alexandria, Virgina. This climbing-inspired song is called Hooking Up.

Show Notes

Follow Will Moss on Instagram

Will Moss’s first appearance on The RunOut, episode 122.

Will Moss Becomes First Person to Flash El Cap in a Day

Babsi Zangerl flashes Free Rider

Can Beetroot Powder Improve Athletic Performance?

Effect of tadalafil (Cialis) on anaerobic performance indices in healthy athletes

Follow FOND on Instagram

Listen to FOND on Apple Music / Spotify — Links on Bandcamp 

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Tanner Wanish and Michael Vaill are two of the best speed climbers in Yosemite today. They currently hold the record for the historic Yosemite Triple Crown with a time of 17 hours and 55 minutes, and they’re also the only climbers to also add in a fourth big wall on top of that feat—a linkup they dubbed the Quad. 

We spoke to Tanner and Michael about their partnership, the allure of linkups, the dangers of speed climbing and competition, and the real joy beyond what you see on social media of clocking big walls for breakfast.

But first, bolts be pulling out, yo. What’s the best way to address aging crags? Your fixed podcast anchors weigh in.

Last, the infamous Tall Jonathan, of the podcast formerly known as TAPS call-in fame, AKA Jonathan Sides, delivers Something More.

Show Notes

Forget the Yosemite Triple… These Guys Just Did the Quad

How Two Lesser-Known Rock Climbers Smashed a Fabled Yosemite Record

Follow Tanner Wanish

Follow Michael Vaill

Listen to “Something More” by Jonathan Sides on Spotify

Follow Jonathan Sides on Instagram

Enormocast 302: Last Rites 

Increase your RunOut runtime. Become a RunOut Rope Gun!  Bonus episodes, AMA, and more are available on Patreon. This is the best way to support the show! Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Jon Glassberg is a photographer and filmmaker, and Emily Harrington is one of America’s most prolific professional climbers, whose all-around feats span summits of 8,000 meter peaks, 5.14, National Comp podiums, and free ascents of El Capitan. Their new film is Girl Climber, which is profile of Emily and her quest to free climb Golden Gate on El Capitan in a day. 

But first, crack open a case of Send Lite and help us ponder whether we need way more terms for doing what we do with our rock-climbing ascents.

Our final bit is “Big Wall,” an alt-rock ear worm from Nathan Murdoch, from the forthcoming EP “If You’re Not There.”

Show Notes

Follow Emily Harrington

Follow Jon Glassberg

Pre-order Girl Climber from Jolt Film

Girl Climber film review from Climbing Mag

Follow Nathan Murdoch

Listen to Big Wall on Spotify 

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Jordan Cannon is a professional climber, known for his free and speed-climbing feats on El Capitan. Mark Hudon is one of the fathers of big-wall free climbing, best known for making a very early and audacious free attempt of the Salathé Wall in 1979 with Max Jones, nearly a decade before El Cap was officially first free climbed by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. Jordan and Mark’s partnership is legendary, best encapsulated in the film “Free As Can Be,” which documents Jordan’s ascent of Freerider in a day and Mark’s attempt to finally complete a free ascent of El Capitan by the same route, more than four decades later. 

On today’s episode, we make podcasting history by recording our episode live from halfway up the side of El Capitan, as Jordan attempts to free the Salathé Wall via the rarely repeated, and arguably official crux pitch—the infamous pitch 19—with Mark supporting him on belay. 

This is a two-part episode. To hear the second half of our conversation, you’ll need to join us at Patreon.com

But first, your over-stoker podcast hosts run into the latest climbing headlines and cover the biggest downgrades to the most impressive ascents, while wondering whether it’s all just one big Tommy Caldwell sandbag.

Today’s final bit features the return of the Seattle post punk power trio rock band Dragontail Peak, with the song Three Rules–as in three rules of big-wall climbing.

Show Notes

Mandatory listening:

“Bonus: The Free Salathé Wall’s Strange Revisionist History” 

“Bonus: Pitch 19, Part Deux”

Enormocast: Episode 152: Mark Hudon and Max Jones – As Free as Can Be.

Follow Jordan Cannon on Instagram

Follow Mark Hudon on Instagram

Mark Hudon website

Bill Ramsey, 64, does Wrongdoer (8b+)

Tommy Caldwell, 46, does Empath 9a (+) calling it 8c

From V16 to Big Walls: Pietro Vidi Makes the Second Ascent of ‘Lurking Fear’

UNCUT: “No one Mourns The Wicked” – V17/9A – Hamish McArthur

Follow DragonTail Peak on Instagram

DragonTail Peak on Bandcamp

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Sonnie Trotter is a professional climber from Canada, whose notable ascents include the first ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish, The Shining on Mount Louis, and the Pineapple Express on El Capitan. His new book is called UPLIFTED: The Evolution of a Climbing Life.

But first, is it aid? One of climbing’s most perennial questions comes up in a way that leaves your hosts breathless and saying “sucks to your ass-mar”. 

Our final bit is “Yamashiro” by Recorduroy, a fusion band based in Colorado, with climber Dave Cohen on drums. 

Show Notes

“UPLIFTED: The Evolution of a Climbing Life” from Patagonia Books

Read “Manboy” an excerpt from Sonnie’s new book on Evening Sends

Follow Sonnie Trotter on Instagram

Listen to Yamashiro on Spotify and Apple Music

Recorduroy on Spotify and Apple Music

Follow Recorduroy on Instagram

Why an Inhaler Sparked a Personal Style Debate on ‘Life of Villains’

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard is the executive director of Urban Native Collective, the host of the Life on the Margins: An Urban Native Experience podcast, the co-founder of the Indigenous Field Guide, and a collaborator with the American Climbing Project. She recently stepped down from the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition Board of Directors over their decision to discontinue their community programming: Climb L8, an initiative integral to their efforts to remove systemic and financial barriers to entry into rock climbing.

But first, your very influential podcast hosts discuss the latest list of top climbing influencers, talk about what we want to see on social media, and give our draft picks for our top follows.

Our final bit is Boulder-based climbers Kyle Ward and Dave Cohen’s band Dry Mouth, back with a track, Lost Boys, off their EP Cactus Jazz Demos.

Show Notes

Follow Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard on Instagram

Urban Native Collective

Urban Native Collective on Instagram

Life on the Margins Podcast

Life on the Margins Podcast on Instagram

American Climbing Project on Instagram

American Climbing Project on Patreon

Climb L8 – web archive

Follow Kyle Ward on Instagram

Follow Dry Mouth on Instagram

Dry Mouth – Soundcloud

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast 

Mark Synnott is a professional big-wall climber, expedition sailor, and writer whose books have included The Third Pole and The Impossible Climb. His latest book is Into The Ice, an epic read about his recent voyage across the infamous Northwest Passage and the historical mysteries that lie within. The 6,736-mile journey takes 112 days, allowing Mark to give us his most personal memoir yet while weaving in the historical details of British explorer Sir John Franklin and the 128 men he led on an ill-fated expedition in the mid-19th century.

But first, we gush over some cool climbing news: Brooke Raboutou becomes the first woman to reach 5.15c, and Connor Herson makes a quick tick of one of the hardest crack climbs in the desert: Mason Earle’s Stranger Than Fiction

Our final bit is a throwback to a moment in time when the Black Nugget in Carbondale was the place to be, and Sector 7G found a groove that sent the cowboys and hippies spiraling.

Show Notes

Follow Mark Synnott on Instagram and check out his homepage

“Into the Ice” from Penguin Random House

All books by Mark Synnott

Northwest Passage – Wikipedia

Northwest Passage – AP

The RunOut #60 – Mark Synnott and Everest

News: Brooke Raboutou Climbs 5.15c

Follow Brooke | Her send post

News: Connor Herson Climbs Stranger Than Fiction (5.14b)

Follow Connor | His send post

Mason Earle’s tapped foot

Earlier this year, the Bears Ears Resource Management Plan dropped, outlining rules regarding camping, waste management, dogs, and, perhaps most controversially, fixed anchors for new routes across the monument, which includes, of course, Indian Creek. Jason Keith is a senior policy advisor at the Access Fund who has spent his career navigating the legal and relational fog of securing access for climbers across the country. He was deeply involved in the development of this plan and talks to us today about what it means for climbers today—and everyone going forward amid the uncertainty and chaos of the current administration. 

But first, we talk about favorite mountain on earth, Everest, and why it’s a such a slippery slope. Drones are coming for Sherpa jobs, but our hot take on this development might surprise you. 

Our Final Bit is the Golden Shoals, a fiddle and guitar duo featuring Mark Kilianski and rock climber Amy Alvey. Check out the Show Notes for tour dates, website, and more!

Show Notes

New Rules at Indian Creek Are Now in Effect. Here’s What You Need to Know.

Bears Ears Resource Management Plan

Access Fund

Drones Will Do Some Schlepping for Sherpas on Mount Everest

Golden Shoals

Follow Golden Shoals and Amy Alvey on Instagram

Golden Shoals tour dates.

Get Bonus Episodes! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast