The RunOut Podcast – Détails, épisodes et analyse

Amity Warme is a professional rock climber and dietician, who has not only free climbed El Capitan five times, but has done so each time in true ground-up style. This ground-up style is captured in an awesome new film that tells the story Amity and Brent Barghahn’s ground-up free ascent of El Niño via the Pineapple Express Variation on El Capitan. Our conversation ranges from big-wall style and ethics, to her philosophy and approach to nutrition.

But first we dive into what the American Alpine Club is calling the greatest access issue in climbing: expensive day passes to climbing gyms.

Last, Gunky and Professor Wayne Burleson brings us his livingroom version of the Dead’s Franklin’s Tower.

Amity Warme on Instagram

Amity Warme website

Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn free climb El Niño.

Watch Amity climb Book of Hate

“Can Climbing Outrun Its Own Elitism With Inclusive Gym Pricing?” on Climbing.com

Pay What You Can Toolkit on the AAC

Professor Burleson

Out #131: Drew Ruana Climbs Hard and Thinks Ahead

Drew Ruana started climbing on the slabs of Smith Rock, and has since become one of America’s most prolific boulderers, with over 100 V14 and harder problems ticked. He’s currently a student at the Colorado School of Mines, and thinking ahead of what kind of career he wants in life, and how climbing fits into it all.

But first, yr friendly podcast hosts debrief on their Olympic fever, and talk about where Paris soared, and where it fell short.

Today’s final bit is from the all-girl punk band Fire Party, who was part of the DC punk scene in the late 1980s. In true punk fashion, the members of Fire Party — including the lead singer, badass climber and friend of the pod Amy Pickering — rejected the label of being an all-girl band.

Watch Drew Ruana climb the Ice Knife

Follow Drew on Instagram

Follow Amy Pickering on Instagram

Will Moss is a comp climber turned traddie from New York City, who has been quietly ticking some of the hardest gear-protected routes in the country over the past couple of years. His most recent notable ascent is the FA of the Gunks hardest: The Best Things in Life Are Free (5.14d R).

But first, we wind our way into a discussion about the elusive “undercover crusher,” and whether this mythical beast actually climbed the thing before everyone else, or if this is just what some bro is saying in order to take you down a peg or two.

Last, we’re honored to feature the atmospheric music of climber and musician Jessica Kilroy, with her track “It’s Infinite.”

Follow Will Moss on Instagram

William Moss, 18, Establishes 5.14d R Trad in the Gunks via Climbing Magazine

R-Rated: 5.14 Climbing on Marginal Gear on YouTube

About James Litz

Nacho Sanchez on Instagram

Follow Jessica Kilroy on Instagram

Jessica Kilroy Bandcamp

Jessica Kilroy on Spotify

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Will Moss on Brozone (5.14b) at the Gunks. Photo by Gregory Berg

Today’s guest is a climbing icon and legend: the great Beth Rodden. Beth was a youth national comp champ who went on to become one of the greatest female climbers of her time, with important first free ascents of El Cap and single-pitch trad test pieces such as Meltdown, a 5.14c crack that many say is harder and took a decade before it was repeated. Her new book is called A Light Through the Cracks.

But first we talk about the elusive “all-around” climber, with Bronwyn Hodgins at the top of mind. What does it take to be considered a great all-around climber? And is that the future for what we demand of our top-end climbers?

Today’s final bit comes courtesy of the extremely talented Beezer (aka Mason Earle) with the track Loggersports.

Follow Beth Rodden on Instagram

Pre-order A Light Through the Cracks from an independent book store or big one

Follow Bronwyn Hodgins on Instagram

News / post about Bronwyn’s latest redpoint

Watch Bronwyn and Jacob Cook free climb a big wall

Follow Mason Earle on Instagram

Check out Beezer on YouTube

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Josh Wharton is one of America’s top alpine climbers, with light and fast ascents of iconic peaks from Patagonia to Alaska to the Himalaya. His latest first free ascent with Vince Anderson, is called Suerte (5.13a, WI6, M7, 3,500 feet) and it’s located on Jirishanca (20,100 feet) in Peru. This ascent, which took years to “alpine redpoint,” is featured in a new film headlining Reel Rock 18.

But first, yer friendly RunOut hosts discuss Kalous’ recent trip out to his namesake dance party at the Michigan Ice Fest, where there was more festing than icing.

Our final bit comes courtesy of Evan Philips, fellow podcaster at The Firn Line, with his song Close to Me.

Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson send Suerte on Climbing.com

Reel Rock 18 Spotlight: Jirishanca

Michigan Ice Fest

Chris Kalous Dance Party

The Firn Line podcast

Close to Me on Spotify

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Dean Fidelman is a legendary climbing photographer, whose body of work and portraitures have come as close to capturing the elusive soul of our sport as any photographer ever has. He’s perhaps best known for his Stone Nudes series of fine-art black-and-white bouldering photographs, but his career first began as a 16 year old kid with a camera, documenting the Stone Masters era of Yosemite and all the legendary characters associated with it. His latest book is “Fidelman: A Body of Work,” an ambitious retrospective that chronicles the career of climbing’s perhaps most ambitious and iconic artist.

But first, yr friendly podcasting hosts wonder whether everyone is making climbing, and training for climbing, way, way, way too complicated.

Our final bit shares an intimate moment between a father and son, resolving a typical schoolyard conflict with a bit of jamming.

“Fidelman: A Body of Work” is available from DiAngelo Publications.

Follow Dean Fidelman on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Colorado Climber Get Goin’ from his EP Get Goin’

Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal are both 26 years old, from Sheffield, England, and have been competing on plastic since they were 12. But once slapping plastic lost its allure, these two climbers found themselves dreaming of adventure. And adventure they found, as they spent a month fumbling their way into the world of big-wall climbing during a month long trip to Yosemite National Park earlier this year. And the unlikely duo emerged from their trip with one of the greatest prizes in climbing: a free ascent of the Nose. We caught up with the lads and talked about how they pulled it off.

But first, your increasingly trivia-oriented show hosts look back on 2023 and try to recall what the hell happened.

Last, damn good Buddy Spray from RunOut RopeGun Cooper Houston.

Two Retired Comp Climbers Pull Off a Rare Free Ascent of the Nose on Climbing.com

Follow Alex Waterhouse on Instagram

Follow Billy Ridal on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Mary Catherine Eden is probably best known for popular Instagram account @tradprincess, but she’s far more than just another online influencer. She’s recently ticked one of the hardest crack climbs in the country, Black Mamba (5.14b), joining a small group of women, if not people of any flavor, who have climbed 5.14 on gear. We talk about her love of crack climbing, progression, “eating her veggies,” and balancing it all in life.

But first, your lovable disgruntled show hosts grumble about new proposals that seek to regulate our ability to place bolts in Wilderness.

Our final bit comes all the way from Glasgow, UK, as Dan Brown combines his love of climbing with music.

Follow Mary Eden on Instagram

News of Mary’s ascent of Black Mamba

Access Fund report on the latest climbing management plans

Dan Brown music

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Jakob Schubert is a four-time World Champion, an Olympic bronze medalist, and he has more IFSC gold medals than any other male competitor. He’s also sent some of the hardest routes in the world, including, most recently, a first ascent of Project B.I.G. in Flatanger, which he rated 9c, making it only the third route ever to be given this grade. Our interview with Jakob takes us behind the scenes on his livestream of sending B.I.G.; his ticklist of some of the hardest routes in the world, especially Chris Sharma lines; who he thinks might be a contender in the next Olympics; and his love of American football.

But first, we talk about Jared Leto’s toprope ascent of the Empire State Building, and try to figure out why everyone so mad.

Today’s final bit comes from OG local legend Joel Brady and his band d’Artagnan and the Banjoman.

Follow Jakob Schubert on Instagram.

Subscribe to Jakob Schubert’s YouTube Channel.

Climbing.com’s news report on Project B.I.G.

Jared Leto Climbs Empire State Building on BBC

Photo of Jared Leto climbing by Renan Ozturk on the NatGeo feed

Follow Joel Brady on Instagram

“I’m Dying” by d’Artagnan and the Banjoman

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com