The Nugget Climbing Podcast – Détails, épisodes et analyse

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut Videos

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-fruge

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave

(00:04:05) – Overview

(00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background

(00:10:21) – Confidence

(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing

(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing

(00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers

(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid

(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy

(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine

(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine

(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle

(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine

(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference

(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues

(01:01:15) – Finding a provider

(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain

(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy

(01:10:23) – Pain is protective

(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset

(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right

(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy

(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences

(01:29:26) – Another client success story

(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle

(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket

(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts

(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog

(01:54:42) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience

(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)

(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power

(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)

(00:11:39) – Example board session formats

(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session

(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)

(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules

(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard

(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time

(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching

(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)

(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing

(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)

(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2

(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously

(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs

(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants

(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast

(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing

(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing

(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot

(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things

(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength

(01:00:38) – Wrap up

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video

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The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

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Use this link for 10% off your first month!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background

(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety

(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes

(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”

(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”

(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence

(00:26:22) – Our three batteries

(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate

(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique

(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:11:44) – Structuring practice

(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture

(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment

(01:21:00) – Three questions

(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling

(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique

(01:35:47) – Sending things faster

(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats

(01:50:43) – Board climbers

(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing

(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’

(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal

(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing

(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets

(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

*The full version is 2:53:31.

*Watch the uncut video interview here!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Aidan’s Original Episode:

EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)

The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions!

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Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

Jesse’s Original Episode:

EP 127: Jesse Firestone

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Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Petzl!

petzl.com

Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:22) – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017

(00:11:12) – Top out views

(00:12:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads

(00:16:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible

(00:20:21) – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training

(00:22:51) – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)

(00:24:56) – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)

(00:25:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)

(00:30:01) – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders

(00:32:41) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)

(00:35:01) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff

(00:36:28) – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try

(00:36:49) – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)

(00:39:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1

(00:40:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)

(00:41:46) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing

(00:42:59) – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)

(00:44:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have

(00:46:45) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect

(00:48:02) – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade

(00:48:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety

(00:52:40) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics

(00:53:23) – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!

Check out PhysiVantage!

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)

Check out Grasshopper Climbing!

grasshopperclimbing.com

instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing

Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! 

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Check out Athletic Greens!

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Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery

(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery

(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury

(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta

(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression

(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”

(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!

(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients

(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients

(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers

(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action

(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training

(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts

(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower

(01:21:00) – Limbic friction

(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”

(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing

(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers

(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home

(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?

(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do

(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day

(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement

(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery

(02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body

(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low

(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus

(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period

(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar

(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength

(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….

(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing

(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer

(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter

(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life

(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie

(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance

(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”

(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering

(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”

(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)

(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP

(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing

(03:31:53) – Take action on something

(03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team

(03:36:42) – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

*The full version is 2:03:36.

*Watch the uncut video interview here!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Jordan’s Original Episode:

EP 115: Jordan Cannon  (April 18, 2022)

Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

Jesse’s Original Episode:

EP 127: Jesse Firestone

Check out Athletic Greens!

athleticgreens.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Petzl!

petzl.com

Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:53) – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA

(00:06:28) – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips

(00:09:11) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early

(00:12:11) – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day

(00:13:58) – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips

(00:17:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open

(00:21:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things

(00:23:47) – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are

(00:24:10) – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff

(00:25:51) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing

(00:27:24) – Try to avoid survival mode

(00:29:09) – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends

(00:31:28) – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list)

(00:34:12) – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip

(00:37:34) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good

(00:39:11) – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area

(00:41:55) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested)

(00:45:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb

(00:46:07) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much

(00:47:21) – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing

(00:49:01) – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward

(00:52:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin

(00:54:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right

(00:57:52) – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip

(00:58:57) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip

(00:59:37) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open

(01:00:31) – Wrap up

Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber.  We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon!

Listen to Fundamentals episodes!

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

Jesse's Original Episode:

EP 127: Jesse Firestone