Amity Warme is a professional rock climber and dietician, who has not only free climbed El Capitan five times, but has done so each time in true ground-up style. This ground-up style is captured in an awesome new film that tells the story Amity and Brent Barghahn’s ground-up free ascent of El Niño via the Pineapple Express Variation on El Capitan. Our conversation ranges from big-wall style and ethics, to her philosophy and approach to nutrition.

But first we dive into what the American Alpine Club is calling the greatest access issue in climbing: expensive day passes to climbing gyms.

Last, Gunky and Professor Wayne Burleson brings us his livingroom version of the Dead’s Franklin’s Tower.

Amity Warme on Instagram

Amity Warme website

Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn free climb El Niño.

Watch Amity climb Book of Hate

“Can Climbing Outrun Its Own Elitism With Inclusive Gym Pricing?” on Climbing.com

Pay What You Can Toolkit on the AAC

Professor Burleson

Out #131: Drew Ruana Climbs Hard and Thinks Ahead

Drew Ruana started climbing on the slabs of Smith Rock, and has since become one of America’s most prolific boulderers, with over 100 V14 and harder problems ticked. He’s currently a student at the Colorado School of Mines, and thinking ahead of what kind of career he wants in life, and how climbing fits into it all.

But first, yr friendly podcast hosts debrief on their Olympic fever, and talk about where Paris soared, and where it fell short.

Today’s final bit is from the all-girl punk band Fire Party, who was part of the DC punk scene in the late 1980s. In true punk fashion, the members of Fire Party — including the lead singer, badass climber and friend of the pod Amy Pickering — rejected the label of being an all-girl band.

Watch Drew Ruana climb the Ice Knife

Follow Drew on Instagram

Follow Amy Pickering on Instagram

Will Moss is a comp climber turned traddie from New York City, who has been quietly ticking some of the hardest gear-protected routes in the country over the past couple of years. His most recent notable ascent is the FA of the Gunks hardest: The Best Things in Life Are Free (5.14d R).

But first, we wind our way into a discussion about the elusive “undercover crusher,” and whether this mythical beast actually climbed the thing before everyone else, or if this is just what some bro is saying in order to take you down a peg or two.

Last, we’re honored to feature the atmospheric music of climber and musician Jessica Kilroy, with her track “It’s Infinite.”

Follow Will Moss on Instagram

William Moss, 18, Establishes 5.14d R Trad in the Gunks via Climbing Magazine

R-Rated: 5.14 Climbing on Marginal Gear on YouTube

About James Litz

Nacho Sanchez on Instagram

Follow Jessica Kilroy on Instagram

Jessica Kilroy Bandcamp

Jessica Kilroy on Spotify

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Will Moss on Brozone (5.14b) at the Gunks. Photo by Gregory Berg

Today’s guest is a climbing icon and legend: the great Beth Rodden. Beth was a youth national comp champ who went on to become one of the greatest female climbers of her time, with important first free ascents of El Cap and single-pitch trad test pieces such as Meltdown, a 5.14c crack that many say is harder and took a decade before it was repeated. Her new book is called A Light Through the Cracks.

But first we talk about the elusive “all-around” climber, with Bronwyn Hodgins at the top of mind. What does it take to be considered a great all-around climber? And is that the future for what we demand of our top-end climbers?

Today’s final bit comes courtesy of the extremely talented Beezer (aka Mason Earle) with the track Loggersports.

Follow Beth Rodden on Instagram

Pre-order A Light Through the Cracks from an independent book store or big one

Follow Bronwyn Hodgins on Instagram

News / post about Bronwyn’s latest redpoint

Watch Bronwyn and Jacob Cook free climb a big wall

Follow Mason Earle on Instagram

Check out Beezer on YouTube

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Josh Wharton is one of America’s top alpine climbers, with light and fast ascents of iconic peaks from Patagonia to Alaska to the Himalaya. His latest first free ascent with Vince Anderson, is called Suerte (5.13a, WI6, M7, 3,500 feet) and it’s located on Jirishanca (20,100 feet) in Peru. This ascent, which took years to “alpine redpoint,” is featured in a new film headlining Reel Rock 18.

But first, yer friendly RunOut hosts discuss Kalous’ recent trip out to his namesake dance party at the Michigan Ice Fest, where there was more festing than icing.

Our final bit comes courtesy of Evan Philips, fellow podcaster at The Firn Line, with his song Close to Me.

Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson send Suerte on Climbing.com

Reel Rock 18 Spotlight: Jirishanca

Michigan Ice Fest

Chris Kalous Dance Party

The Firn Line podcast

Close to Me on Spotify

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Dean Fidelman is a legendary climbing photographer, whose body of work and portraitures have come as close to capturing the elusive soul of our sport as any photographer ever has. He’s perhaps best known for his Stone Nudes series of fine-art black-and-white bouldering photographs, but his career first began as a 16 year old kid with a camera, documenting the Stone Masters era of Yosemite and all the legendary characters associated with it. His latest book is “Fidelman: A Body of Work,” an ambitious retrospective that chronicles the career of climbing’s perhaps most ambitious and iconic artist.

But first, yr friendly podcasting hosts wonder whether everyone is making climbing, and training for climbing, way, way, way too complicated.

Our final bit shares an intimate moment between a father and son, resolving a typical schoolyard conflict with a bit of jamming.

“Fidelman: A Body of Work” is available from DiAngelo Publications.

Follow Dean Fidelman on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Colorado Climber Get Goin’ from his EP Get Goin’

Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal are both 26 years old, from Sheffield, England, and have been competing on plastic since they were 12. But once slapping plastic lost its allure, these two climbers found themselves dreaming of adventure. And adventure they found, as they spent a month fumbling their way into the world of big-wall climbing during a month long trip to Yosemite National Park earlier this year. And the unlikely duo emerged from their trip with one of the greatest prizes in climbing: a free ascent of the Nose. We caught up with the lads and talked about how they pulled it off.

But first, your increasingly trivia-oriented show hosts look back on 2023 and try to recall what the hell happened.

Last, damn good Buddy Spray from RunOut RopeGun Cooper Houston.

Two Retired Comp Climbers Pull Off a Rare Free Ascent of the Nose on Climbing.com

Follow Alex Waterhouse on Instagram

Follow Billy Ridal on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Mary Catherine Eden is probably best known for popular Instagram account @tradprincess, but she’s far more than just another online influencer. She’s recently ticked one of the hardest crack climbs in the country, Black Mamba (5.14b), joining a small group of women, if not people of any flavor, who have climbed 5.14 on gear. We talk about her love of crack climbing, progression, “eating her veggies,” and balancing it all in life.

But first, your lovable disgruntled show hosts grumble about new proposals that seek to regulate our ability to place bolts in Wilderness.

Our final bit comes all the way from Glasgow, UK, as Dan Brown combines his love of climbing with music.

Follow Mary Eden on Instagram

News of Mary’s ascent of Black Mamba

Access Fund report on the latest climbing management plans

Dan Brown music

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Jakob Schubert is a four-time World Champion, an Olympic bronze medalist, and he has more IFSC gold medals than any other male competitor. He’s also sent some of the hardest routes in the world, including, most recently, a first ascent of Project B.I.G. in Flatanger, which he rated 9c, making it only the third route ever to be given this grade. Our interview with Jakob takes us behind the scenes on his livestream of sending B.I.G.; his ticklist of some of the hardest routes in the world, especially Chris Sharma lines; who he thinks might be a contender in the next Olympics; and his love of American football.

But first, we talk about Jared Leto’s toprope ascent of the Empire State Building, and try to figure out why everyone so mad.

Today’s final bit comes from OG local legend Joel Brady and his band d’Artagnan and the Banjoman.

Follow Jakob Schubert on Instagram.

Subscribe to Jakob Schubert’s YouTube Channel.

Climbing.com’s news report on Project B.I.G.

Jared Leto Climbs Empire State Building on BBC

Photo of Jared Leto climbing by Renan Ozturk on the NatGeo feed

Follow Joel Brady on Instagram

“I’m Dying” by d’Artagnan and the Banjoman

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Kris Hampton is the brains and brawn behind Power Company Climbing and the cohost of the podcast by the same name. His insatiable love of creating new things, whether that’s training plans for climbers or music, has led him to launch Written in Stone, a new climbing history podcast looking at monumental moments in our sport, decade by decade.

But first, we respond to a couple of show listeners who had an absolutely insane exchange with climbing’s most notorious authority. No, we’re not talking about cops or park rangers. We’re talking about the kid who gives the belay test in the gym.

Finally, we’re honored to share some new music from our super talented friend Andy Mann, a National Geographic photographer, director, and musician / storyteller. His new EP is called Full Moon Fight.

Power Company Climbing

Power Company Climbing and Written in Stone podcasts

Follow Kris Hampton on Instagram

Follow Andy Mann on Instagram and check out his music here

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly

This fall, two American women found themselves in an unlikely race to reach the summit of Shishapangma, and thereby earn themselves a place in the record books as being the first American woman to have done all 14 8,000-meter peaks (with oxygen). Unfortunately, both Anna Gutu and Gina Rzucidło, alongside their respective Sherpa guides Mingmar Sherpa and Tenjen Lama, perished in two separate avalanches about 30 minutes apart around 7,800 meters. Did this informal competition lead them to making bad decisions that ultimately cost everyone their lives? To make sense of this terrible tragedy, as well as to discuss some of the ongoing issues around competency, infrastructure, and regulations within the Himalayan guiding industry, we speak to Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow Expeditions. Adrian has guided numerous high-altitude peaks, including many summits of Mount Everest, and his company Alpenglow leads over 30 international expeditions each year. And he has also personally climbed Mount Everest and K2 without using oxygen, and notably made the first ski descent of Makalu.

But first, your friendly neighborhood climbing podcasters think about what would happen if the Rapture came for pro climbers and they were all smite’d away from this good, green earth. Would that change anything about the climbing we know and love?

Last, today’s final bit comes from an experimental instrumental band called Les Rhinoceros, with drums and percussion played by climber and friend of the pod Jon Burrier.

Via Explorer’s Web: “What Happened on Shishapangma: The Climbers Speak Out”

Shishapangma Avalanche: Two U.S. Women, Two Sherpas Dead/Missing

Adrian Ballinger on Instagram

Follow Jon Burrier on Instagram and check out his SoundCloud

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Thomas Huber is our favorite Huber brother—no offense to Alex. He needs little introduction, and is one of the most prolific climbers of the last 30 years thanks to a resume that includes establishing some of the best free climbs on El Capitan and across Europe, to winning the Piolet d’Or for his bold alpine ascents, to being a member of the beloved Stone Monkeys. His new book Freiheit, In the Mountains There is Freedom, is now available in English from DiAngelo.

But first, yer hosts consider the question of giving and receiving encouragement while climbing. Why do we feel the need to yell, “You got it!” at people who clearly Do. Not. Have. It.? And is a little peace and silence too much to ask around here?

Last but never least, our final bit is another awkward collision between climbing and mainstream media, as the news tries to capture the heroism of a dramatic, life-saving rescue.

Buy Thomas Huber’s book

Follow Thomas Huber on Instagram

Read an excerpt from Huber’s book on Evening Sends

Follow Jordan Cannon

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Our guest today is Rich Johnston, the president and owner of Vertical World in Seattle, known as America’s First Climbing Gym (TM). He’s also the founding chairman of the Climbing Wall Association, where he served for 16 years, and a board member on The Mountaineers. Rich tells us about the earliest days of the climbing-wall industry, why he never thought climbing gyms would succeed, and how important culture and philosophy are to creating a community of climbers that abide by the inherent risk doctrine. All of this is a prelude to discussing an important bellwether lawsuit that was just settled involving a climber who didn’t clip himself in properly to an auto belay, and still came away with a whopping settlement in his favor.

But first, your favorite climbing podcast hosts talk about the nebulous rules and etiquette for passing people on a multi-pitch climb. When should you let people play through? And is it ever OK to just pass without permission?

Last but not least, our Final Bit comes to us from listener, climber, fellow dad, and self-proclaimed “normal guy” from Boise, Idaho, Alan Keller. HIs band is called Prairie Mountain Plain and this new song “North Bound and West” is from their latest album While They Sleep.

Climbing Mag: Gym and Auto Belay Manufacturer to Pay $6M in Settlement for Auto Belay Accident

Evening Sends: Will Climbing Gyms Survive the Lawsuits?

The plaintiff’s attorney’s press release.

Vertical World’s response

Vertical World

Andrew Megas-Russell on Instagram

Prairie Mountain Plain on Spotify

Today’s guest is Graham Zimmerman, an alpinist, a recipient of the Piolet d’Or and a director at Protect Our Winters, a climate-advocacy group. His new book is “A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.”

But first, cave raves are all fun and games until your favorite crag gets shut down. Your favorite climbing podcaster hosts try to figure out where their personal boundaries lie for self-policing the climbing world.

Our final bit is an original ode to Vedauwoo by climbing couple Morgan Shannon and Ben Baltich.

Follow Graham Zimmerman on Instagram

Order his book from The Mountaineers.

Protect Our Winters

Today, we’re releasing one of our bonus episodes from our Rope Gun feed on Patreon because the content is a PSA and super important for as many climbers out there to hear.

Our conversation is with Alannah Yip, an Olympic sport climber from Canada with an incredible career. This summer, Alannah started a conversation about the prevalence of eating disorders in high-end comp climbing, fears about RED-S afflicting athletes, and what many view as foot-dragging by the IFSC, comp climbing’s governing body, to do much about it.

After Alannah’s viral post on Instagram, she was joined by the likes of Janja Garnbret in adding her concerns to the conversation, and this topic has also resulted in two doctors resigning from the IFSC medical commission in protest over their inaction.

If you like this episode, and want to never miss important bonus episodes such as this one, please join us on Patreon! For as little as $5.14/month you’ll get bonus content and other perks and help us continue to cover the best sport in the world through this podcast.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

IFSC Doctors Resign, Alleging Health Dangers in Competitive Climbing

Follow Alannah Yip on Instagram

Alannah’s IG post

Our guest today is the esteemed Russ Clune, a climbing legend of the Shawangunks in New York, where he has established notable first ascents and from where he bases in between trips to dozens of countries and crags around the world. His new book is “The Lifer: Rock Climbing Adventures In The Gunks And Beyond.”

But first, yr hosts try to figure out why everyone hates trustfunding dirtbags so much.

Our final bit is some music from Lambros Markousis, a climber, metal fabricator, musician, and amateur stop-motion animator out of Buffalo, NY. Performing as the artist Sorbmal, here is the song “Num.”

The Lifer: Rock Climbing Adventures In The Gunks And Beyond at DiAngelo Publications

Read: The Day I Sent Balance of Soul by Russ Clune on Evening Sends

Follow Sorbmal on Spotify

Our guest today is a genuine legend and one of the pioneers of big-wall climbing. John Middendorf is a mechanical engineer, gear designer, researcher, writer, and teacher based in Tasmania. His climbing accomplishments pushed the limits of big-walls, adventure, and exploration throughout the 1980s and ‘90s. Most notably, he’s responsible for the first ascent of the East Face of Great Trango Tower, widely considered the largest and steepest continuous wall in the world at 4,400 feet, which he achieved with Xaver Bongard in 1992. The team used portaledges designed by Middendorf himself from his company A5 Adventures. Over the years, Middendorf has continued to refine his portaledge designs, with the D4 Designs which you can find on his website bigwalls.net, one of the first climbing websites in the world. Today, Middendorf has been engaged in an academic review of esoteric climbing journals of old to learn how the developments and advancements of gear have preceded leaps in progress thanks to the “influencers” of the day.

But first, yer friendly podcasting hosts are back on their usual bullshit after a few weeks of summer vacation.

Our final bit is some buddy spray from RunOut listener Andres Santiago. For spraying about his buddy, Andres is receiving a Yeti Yonder water bottle. If you’d like to submit spray, join us on Patreon.com/runoutpodcast to do so.

Check out bigwalls.net

Links to Mechanical Advantages, Vol 1 & 2: Note, these are 500mb PDFs. Download as files

Mechanical Advantage, Vol 1.

Mechanical Advantage, Vol 2.

Yosemite Climbing in the ’80s by CVL

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Our guest today is one of the all-time great alpinists of our time. Colin Haley joins to the show in the wake of an uneventful trip to Alaska, and explains why such missions are part of a healthy approach to pursuing a lifetime of adventure and alpine climbing in the mountains.

But first, your hosts return from separate vacations and commiserate over how easy and glamorous it is to climb abroad with kids, while still making space to sneak in some deep-water solos.

For our final bit, we present an original composition for Marimba by Jared Kohli entitled Joyous.

Follow Colin Haley on Instagram

Report on Alaska trip

Free soloing Fitz Roy

Jarrod Kohli on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Our guest today is Albert Ok, a YouTuber and speed-climbing coach. Albert goes by the handle Professor Ok, and creates content that breaks down movement. He tries to break climbing down into its most fundamental parts in order to best understand it. He’s also a talented speed climber, boulderer, and all-around athlete.

But first, Andrew reports on a little local controversy from Chamonix regarding one of the most decorated alpine climbers of his generation who was prosecuted by an authoritarian politician, and what all of this means for the big thorny question of fixed gear in the mountains.

Our final bit features the heavy psychedelic grooves of the band Pontiak.

Follow Albert OK on Instagram

Subscribe to Albert Ok on YouTube

Christophe Profit Found Guilty of Removing Safety Gear From Mont Blanc

Follow Pontiak on Instagram and Spotify

This episode is a proper mix of silly and seriousness, as we talk to Mike Penney, director of the Ontario Alliance of Climbers, who is currently pushing back on the government’s regulations threatening access to 75% of Ontario rock climbing, and even going so far as to actively chop bolts from cliffs. This a big deal, and worthy of the climbing community’s attention and energy, even if you’re not from Canada. The cliffs of Ontario are in close proximity to many midwestern climbers and our friends up north need our support to help keep climbing across Ontario open.

But first, Chris and Andrew look to Taylor Swift and her fans for inspiration on a hot new piece of gear that we predict will “change” the climbing nation — PUN INTENDED! Introducing the Walldies. You won’t want to miss them.

Last, RunOut RopeGun Nick De Haas sprays down his buddy, for which he’ll be receiving a Yeti Yonder water bottle. If you have some Buddy Spray, join us on Patreon for details on how to submit your entry.

Help support the access fight for Ontario climbing here: https://climbinparks.ca/

Follow Mike Penney and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers on Insta.

Ontario Crag Chopped by Land Managers

Luke Mehall is the publisher of The Climbing Zine, and the the creator of the Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. After America’s two most prominent climbing magazines either went under or went digital, the Climbing Zine now stands as an unlikely last remaining print vehicle for telling stories about rock climbing and dirtbag culture. We get into the future of print, the struggle in finding people willing to put in the work of writing about climbing, and the joys of living a creative life.

But first, Kalous deviously baits one of the most annoying corners of climbing social media by posting a photo of his new favorite anchor: the Quad. The anchor dweebs of Instagram are predictably not happy.

Last, we feature another band of climbers: Bend, Oregon’s Billy and the Box Kid.

The Climbing Zine

Dirtbag State of Mind podcast

Follow Luke Mehall, The Climbing Zine, and DSOM on Instagram

Quad post #1.

Quad post #2.

Billy and the Box Kid on Spotify and Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Savannah Cummins is a filmmaker, photographer, and all-around professional climber. We talk about some of her wildest expeditions to the farthest corners of the planet, dealing with injuries and medical malpractice, losing her partner in a tragic and freak accident in Mexico, and recently discovering a diagnosis that put all the pieces together for her.

But first, we try to keep our heads above water as our favorite local climbing area closes due to a Biblical flood. Why does God hate sport climbing?

Last, some Buddy Spray from RunOut Ropegun and Colorado College alum Tim Johnson, who encounters a climbing legend and Shaman of the animal kingdom one day out at the crags. For this, Tim will receive a Yeti water bottle. And if you’d like to submit Buddy Spray, you must support this podcast on Patreon.

Follow Savannah Cummins on Instagram

Check out Sav’s film on El Gavilan

Nolan Smythe accident report on Alpinist

Read AB’s story about trying El Gavilan on Evening Sends

Listen to Jeff Jackson on the Enormocast

Read Hayden Kennedy’s “Day We Sent Logical Progression”

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Allyson Gunsallus is a climber and lawyer who serves on the board of the American Alpine Club. She is also the producer and director of Hand Holds, a new film interview series providing resources for climbing parents. Our conversation explores how climbing parents navigate the risks inherent to our sport with the demands of their new identity, not to mention the little person in their lives.

But first, we’ve got a tepid Olympic fever and the only cure is more speed climbing. We give the run-down on who to look for in the Olympics, and why it’s only Sam Watson.

Last but never least, the great Steph Davis onsights an off-the-couch piano performance of the soundtrack of Interstellar.

Hand Holds is six free-to-watch episodes featuring interviews with well-known climbers, including Beth Rodden, Majka Burhardt, Eddie and Anna Taylor, Jon and Jess Glassberg, Kris Hampton, and Chris Kalous. Visit handholdsfilm.com for more information.

Follow Allyson Gunsallus / Hand Holds on Instagram

Follow Steph Davis on Instagram

Who is in the Olympics?

Watch Sam Watson set the world record

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

In an era of remote work and $200K Sprinter Vans, it may seem like the archetypal dirtbag of climbing lore is obsolete if not dead. Cedar Wright is on a mission, however, to keep it alive through a new program he’s starting to try to encourage young, stoked climbers to make the most of life by living on the least.

But first, we dive into how Starlink is changing the climbing experience by keeping some climbers connected everywhere. How will this newfangled technology be welcomed in climbing areas where you could once remain blissfully offline?

Our final bit features some studio music from friend of the pod, Black Diamond employee, great climber, and even better singer-songwriter Chris Parker.

Follow Cedar Wright on Instagram to learn more about the DirtBag fund and other Cedar adventures.

Chris Parker on Spotify

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Our guest today is Christian Beckwith, a writer, podcaster, and co-founder of Alpinist Magazine and the Teton Climbers Coalition. His latest project is 90 Pound Rucksack, a historical podcast exploring the dawn of outdoor recreation in America through the story of the 10th Mountain Division.

But first, the boys catch up after a run-in with some paparazzi at the Moab grocery store, and a few trips to the Creek with some fresh eyes for the power of rock climbing.

Last, we’re psyched to share climber Harvey Merritt’s band Ponytails’ song, “Barbie and the Bam Bam.”

Christian Beckwith and 90 Pound Rucksack // Spotify // Apple Podcasts

Follow Christian Beckwith on Instagram

MeamsOfMoab on Instagram

Steph Davis’ Indian Creek Crack Clinic

Ponytails on Spotify

Harvey Merritt on Instagram

Ponytails on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

The Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act (H.R. 1380) is a bipartisan collaboration before Congress that aims to establish rock climbing as a legitimate activity across all federal lands, and direct relevant federal departments to include language in their management policy that addresses rock climbing and the placement and maintenance of fixed anchors. What does this bill say and what does its implications mean for rock climbing in the future? We bring in Chris Winter, Access Fund executive director, to fill us in on his ongoing efforts to lobby on behalf of the climbing community.

But first AB fills in Chris on some of the latest headlines in the climbing world, from April Fools faceplants to stealth edits on Chris Sharma’s ascent of Sleeping Lion.

Last, we have some Buddy Spray, presented by Yeti and open only to those who support our podcast on Patreon. Ben Chipman sprays downs his friends and for this welcome bit of selflessness we’re giving him a Yeti Yonder.

Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act press release

Read the bill

Give money to the Access Fund

April Fools: 8a and Climbing

E-Grader

Sharma Sleeping Lion news

Bishop is moist

For our hundredth episode (has another podcast ever reached such a milestone?) we hosted a live conversation and Q&A with Tommy Caldwell for all of our RopeGuns, our supporters on Patreon. Join us if you’d like to support the show and be invited to our next live broadcast, whenever that is.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Is climbing photography dead? In an era in which everyone has an iPhone and now generative AI can create realistic photographic “content,” what role does a professional photographer play in 2023? We talk about these issues and more with one of the most successful climbing photographers and directors of all time, Corey Rich. Corey isn’t just a talented creative, he’s a smart and savvy entrepreneur who understands the business of creating photos and videos as well as anyone in the industry. And he’s also a good friend!

But first, we chat about AB’s new film “Resistance Climbing,” which is now in theaters around the world as part of the annual Reel Rock 17 tour. The film captures a climbing community in Palestine, and we talk about how this kind of international climbing development often leads to some fraught questions about motivation and intention.

Last, Hayden O’Shea pays homage to the late El Cap pirate, Ammon McNeely, and tells the story of joining Ammon on his first voyage back up the Big Stone after losing his leg.

Follow Corey Rich on Instagram.

Get a copy of Corey Rich’s book “Stories Behind the Images.”

Check out the trailer for Reel Rock 17 and find a show near you.

Follow Hayden O’Shea on Instagram.

Read “The Last Iconoclast: Ammon McNeely”

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Majka Burhardt is a professional climber, author, and mother of twins. Her new book is More: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood. We talk to Majka about the struggle to find that elusive balance while holding out hope for having it all.

But first, Chris gets the bad news that he’s been fired from the show, and will be replaced with a host who has more followers on Instagram. (We will report anyone who points out how, of the two hosts, Chris is the one with more followers—never mind that!) This news follows on the heels of the outdoor industry shake-up that Eddie Bauer fired its entire roster of pro climbers. Eddie Bauer makes climbing you gear, you say? We had no idea either!

Last, a rose for the bottom feeders of our latest bonus episode interview with the great French climber Antoine Le Menestrel. If you like what you smell, join us on Patreon.com/runoutpodcast.

Majka Burhardt

MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood

Why Did Eddie Bauer Lay Off Its Whole Team of Professional Athletes? It’s Complicated.

Climbing Freed: Chasing Antoine Le Menestrel

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Lynn Hill needs no intro. She’s best known as the individual who completed the first free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan, as well as the first person to free El Cap in a single day. The ascent broke gender barriers and progressed the sport. Today, Lynn is returning to the fundamentals, through a new video series that is designed to help climbers learn how to move as naturally, efficiently, and effectively as possible. We sat down with Lynn in her Boulder home to catch up with one of the sport’s absolute legends.

But first we get in the weeds with Viet Nguyen, a controversial coder responsible for OpenBeta.io, which has the goal of developing climbing’s first open-source route database. We try to unpack what open source means, and why it will become the future of climbing guides and apps.

Our final bit is the climber/surfer band, Wanted Noise, from San Diego, California. The track? Cruise Control.

Check out The Fundamentals of Climbing by Lynn Hill.

OpenBeta.io

The Future of Climbing Guides Must be Open Source on Evening Sends.

Wanted Noise on Youtube. And @wantednoiseca on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Thomas Huber is one of the most accomplished and beloved climbers of all time. Along with his brother Alex, Thomas helped pave the way for modern free climbing on El Capitan with FreeRider, Golden Gate, and host of other first free ascents. He’s a Piolet d’Or recipient for his first ascent with Iwan Wolf of the north pillar of Shivling. And his new book is “In Den Bergen ist “Freiheit” — “In the mountains, There is Freedom.”

(If you’d like to hear an extended bonus interview with Thomas, join us on Patreon to hear the full conversation, including what Thomas reveals about his relationship to Pitch 19. And if you have to ask, “Pitch 19 of what?” Then you really need to join us on Patreon and Become a RopeGun because you’re so far behind the conversation. ?)

But first, we have a conversation with up-and-coming climber and comedian Bridget Epitropakis from Australia. She’s figured out how to fund her new climbing habit by murdering audiences in laugh clubs in Denver, CO, where she’ll be returning this year for another run of shows.

Last, we finish with “Brothers & Sisters,” the latest single from Thomas Huber’s band, Plastic Surgery Disaster.

Follow Thomas Huber on Facebook.

“In Den Bergen ist Freiheit”

Follow Bridget Epitropakis on Twitter.

Follow Plastic Surgery Disaster on Spotify.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

New Year, New Us. We connect for the first podcast of 2023, and Chris shares his aspirations of becoming a climbing warrior while Andrew is back on his usual bullshit of planning for another year of truly unimpressive mediocrity.

Hazel Findlay comes to the rescue, with an inspiring conversation about her approach to mental training through her Strong Mind training program. She offers her wisdom on everything from what makes us all afraid to fall (and fail), to why Alex Honnold is, mentally, so special. Hazel reflects on her past year, in which she climbed 9a with Escalamasters, and established two remote big-wall first ascents in Greenland with Honnold, as well as battled lots of injuries. Be sure to check out StrongMind Climbing to register for Flight School, which is launching soon!

Our Final Bit comes from one of the most talented and unsung figures in the climbing and photography world, Celin Serbo, who has somehow found time to compose original music in his free time.

Check out StrongMind Climbing and follow them on Instagram

Of course, follow Hazel Findlay on Insta.

And you may as well follow Celin Serbo too while you’re at it and check out his GarageBand-bedroom-project, Sancho.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

What’s the best way to belay with a GriGri? How should you build an anchor? Is that CE-certified piece of webbing really strong enough for real-world climbing? The internet has an opinion on this and more! Walk with us through the muck of know-it-alls offering their two cents on everything.

Next, one of our favorite writers Jeff Smoot returns to the show to plug his new book All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing, and regale us with his own experiences in this darkest of dark arts.

Last but never least, Madaleine Sorkin shares how her experience of sending the Hallucinogen Wall inspired her inner bard.

All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing, available from The Mountaineers or wherever you get books.

Follow Jeff Smoot on Instagram.

Check out episode #21 of The RunOut for our first interview with Jeff Smoot on his last book, Hangdog Days.

Follow Madeleine Sorkin on Instagram

Listen to our bonus interview with Madaleine by joining us on Patreon.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Miranda Oakley is an AMGA certified rock climbing guide, who set the record for being the first woman to rope solo the Nose in a day. As a Palestinian-American, she recently made headlines by hanging a political banner on the side of El Cap. We discuss this unlikely nexus between climbing and activism, and imagine how it can go right or wrong.

But first, fresh off a week of climbing in America’s new favorite sport crag, Kalous has some observations he wants to share.

For our final bit, we’re stoked to share the Salt Lake City progressive rock climber band Better in Color with their track “The Imprisoned One.”

Follow Miranda Oakley on Instagram

Climbers Hang “Stop the Genocide” Banner from El Capitan

Movement Lessons from Climbers With Palestine’s Yosemite Banner Hang

Better in Color

Follow Better in Color on Instagram

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

We kick it with Alex Honnold, the rock climber who was once on 60 Minutes. He has even done a few other impressive things since then … you know, like free soloing El-fucking-Cap. It’s been a big year for Honnold, from traversing the polar regions of Greenland in search of a 4,000-foot unclimbed sea cliff while doing extreme climate science, to going deep into the pain cave on his epic HURT traverse in Red Rock, to nearly killing Magnus Mitbo, to perhaps, most importantly, becoming a dad. All while expanding his reach as media star. Honnold was gracious enough to come down off his perch and roll around in the muck with us podcasting lowlifes for a candid and fun conversation that traverses all the great things that we love about climbing, proving that he’s still a dirtbag at heart.

To hear an extended cut of our interview with Alex Honnold, please support the show by becoming a Rope Gun on Patreon.

But first, we attend to some unfinished business in the form of arbitrating, litigating, and otherwise conversing about booty. The “crazy girl” from our recent debate about booty’d gear writes in with her side of the story, and we formally submit her complaint into the record. Court’s in session and all the booty is on the line.

Last but not least, we’re honored to share an excerpt from one of our favorite climbing podcasts in the world, the Jam Crack podcast with Niall Grimes. This interview excerpt with the great Ben Moon is not to be missed.

Alex Honnold in Greenland on National Geographic

Alex Honnold’s HURT traverse

Alex Honnold Free Solos with Magnus Mitbo

Part one of the great booty debate, Runout #88

Listen to the whole JamCrack Podcast 112 with Ben Moon

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

We’ve got a double-header today with two amazing guests.

Our first guest is Scott Johnston, a coach, trainer, and co-author of Training for the New Alpinism, with over 200,000 copies sold. Scott recently left his perch at Uphill Athlete to continue his work at Evoke Endurance. We talk to Scott about a healthier approach to training for comprehensive fitness, whether on the rock or in the big mountains.

Next, we speak to Libby Sauter, a family nurse practitioner and trad climber who holds the women’s speed record on the Nose. She set that record in 2014 with Mayan Smith Gobat, clocking a time of 4:43. Libby took a big step back from speed climbing after seeing her dear friend Quinn Brett break her back while trying to beat her record. In the past few years, she’s been trying to start a family with her partner, but has suffered tragic loss many times over through multiple miscarriages. Libby shares the struggle of this journey honestly and openly, with the goal of influencing other female climbers and athletes to think about what it means to have it all.

Our final bit today is some Buddy Spray for friend of the pod Wendy Williams, who, at age 48, just climbed the hardest route of her life.

Connect with Scott Johnston at Evoke Endurance and follow him and his team on Instagram.

Training for the New Alpinism

Libby Sauter on Instagram.

Video: Libby and Mayan break the Nose speed record.

Free (Donation-based) pregnancy and infant loss counseling

Fertility Doctor YouTube

The Turnaway Study: Cost of being denied abortions

Wendy Williams: At 48, I tried everything. Here’s What Helped Me (Finally) Send.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Last month, an 8-year-old boy and his dad “climbed” El Capitan with the help of two other anonymous climbers who presumably guided the father-son team, fixing all the ropes so they could jug up the wall. We look at the media attention this ascent received, and discuss our concerns over claiming these kinds of records.

Our main guest is a woman who Lynn Hill once called, “the greatest female sport climber” — Katie Brown. Katie has produced a new memoir about her precocious life as a world-class competition and sport climber, as well as her fraught relationship with her mom, her struggles with eating disorders, and how becoming a mom herself has helped her reframe everything.

Our final bit is pulled from the archives of The Davenports with this yacht rock classic cover of Jay Ferguson’s 1977 song Thunder Island. Who’s that on bass, you ask? None other than our own Chris Kalous.

Did an 8-year-old actually climb Yosemite’s El Capitan? Not really. It’s complicated

Father of 8-year-old who ascended El Capitan challenges criticism of his son’s feat

Unraveled: A Climber’s Journey through Darkness and Back

Jay Ferguson – Thunder Island (1978 – HD)

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

If there is one thing you can say about this show, it’s that we are the most fair and balanced climbing podcast in the world. Following last episode’s discussion about Yosemite’s proposed overnight permits for big-wall climbers, we are speaking to two guests from the opposite side of the debate: Jesse McGahey is Yosemite National Park’s head climbing ranger. And Timmy O’Neill is a longtime professional athlete, founder of Paradox Sports, and board member of the Yosemite Climbing Association. Our discussion over this important rule-change proposal continues.

But first, we muse about the art of the sandbag. When is it totes aprops to hose your friend, and when is it just downright cruel? And what does it say about YOU when you’re the only climber not getting sandbagged by your peers?

Finally, Lucas Roman returns to the show to read an excerpt from his new book “The Greater Fool: Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality.”

Read about the Wilderness Climbing Permits from the NPS

Add your voice to the discussion! Submit your comment about the Wilderness Climbing Permits here by November 16.

Lucas Roman’s new book “The Greater Fool: Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality” is available at DiAngelo Publications.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

The Yosemite National Park is attempting to make its Covid-era rule in which climbers are required to have a permit to spend the night on a big wall permanent—and predictably, climbers aren’t happy about it. We spoke to two of the most active big wall climbers in Yosemite in recent years about the current state of affairs in the Valley: Gena Wood is a former climbing ranger and a veteran of more than 20 ascents of El Cap. And Lance Colley has also worked for the park service, and has completed 29 ascents of El Cap in the past three years.

But first, the hosts catch up after two very different climbing experiences, and discuss the serial chipper on the loose in Utah and determine just who, or what, is to blame.

Finally, “Jefe” (Jeff Jackson) returns to the final bit with some Hawaiian-inflected jams.

Submit your comment on big-wall permits by November!

Follow Lance Colley on Instagram

Follow Gena Wood on Instagram

Watch the Park Service’s virtual town hall explaining their rationale for the permit

James Hornibrook’s Change petition against the permits

Read up on Booz Allen Hamilton in the NYT and again in the NYT.

Evening Sends article on chipping.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Who doesn’t love booty? Finding gear on a route can make a climber’s day, but what are the best practices for finding the owner’s gear? Court’s in order for your friendly podcast hosts as they debate the finer points of booty while litigating one listener’s story of being accused of not doing enough to return booty to its “rightful” owner.

Our main guest today is Jeff Jackson, aka “Jefe.” Jeff is easily one of climbing’s most prolific route developers and greatest writers and storytellers. A former editor of Rock and Ice magazine and successful screenplay writer, Jeff currently teaches creative writing at the University of Hawaii Maui College. While living on Maui, Jeff has helped develop hundreds of new rock climbs and crags. Some of the more famous routes of his career, however, are located in Mexico and include El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico and El Gavilan on La Popa, which happens to be the subject of a new climbing film.

Last and certainly least, “Whose PSSAT is this anyway?” returns for today’s final bit.

Read “Paradox of Paradise,” by Jeff Jackson, which was originally published by Rock and Ice and appeared in Best American Sports Writing 2019.

Read “A Climber’s Ghost Story, Unexplained,” also by Jefe.

Check out the trailer for the new El Gavilan film by Savannah Cummins.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Jonathan Siegrist, one of the world’s best sport climbers, returns to the show to share the news of his recent send of Rifle’s hardest route. We catch up on the latest in the climbing world in a casual conversation that traverses freely and honestly across the climbing landscape.

But first, your friendly neighborhood podcast hosts explore what climbing may — or may never — mean for our kids, and how we think about raising the next generation in an era of social-media-fueled pressure to be “rad” at everything.

As always, you won’t want to miss today’s final bit from Butchcop.

Photo: @BearCam

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Follow Jonathan Siegrist on Instagram

And follow BearCam

Chris Kalous’ instagram post

Butchcop on Spotify

The RunOut bonus interview with Joe Kinder about establishing Kinder Cakes

Our guest today is Seb Bouin, one of the best rock climbers on Earth and the author of DNA, one of three 5.15d rock climbs established thus far. We talk to Seb about grades, how he measures success, the benefits of climbing outdoors vs. training indoors, and where the future of rock climbing is heading next.

But first, we take a somber look at a recent accident on Half Dome, in which a young woman fell 80 feet and badly injured herself. In the aftermath of this terrible accident, calls are sounding to add bolts to one of Half Dome’s more historic climbs. We consider the contours of the debate and attempt to arrive at some ideas for how to proceed in the wake of an accident.

Today’s final bit comes from the band Rebelle, a Quebec-based band whose drummer, Joey Kane, is a sport climber who first discovered climbing during the pandemic and has been hooked ever since. This is their new song, Head on Fire.

Seb Bouin on Instagram: DNA (9c), Iron Curtain (9a+/b), Change (9b+), Nordic Marathon.

Who Cares about the World’s Hardest Route on Evening Sends.

80-foot Slab Fall Leaves Yosemite Climber Critically Injured

Student hit with $1.2m medical bill after falling in Yosemite

Donate to Anna’s Recovery

Rebelle on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Spotify

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

To start, we grimly remark on the latest round up of avalanches, landslides, and glacier collapses and what that means for mountain travel in the future.

Our main guest today is Cody Townsend, a self-proclaimed “rock climbing gumby” but a true all-mountain badass, free skier, ski mountaineer, and extreme-sports ambassador. Cody offers a wonderful outsider-looking-in perspective on our self-serious sport. He also dishes up the latest from Ski the Fifty, a multi-year effort to ski all 50 of the classic ski descents of North America, as listed in the eponymous coffee table book by Chris Davenport and Penn Newhard.

Some of the percussions in today’s final bit riff are created using climbing gear—but knowing that won’t stop you from putting on some serious bass face. This track comes to us from Craig Bruenger, a climber who plays in the death-metal band Ahtme. Check out his Instagram page to see his videos.

Second glacier avalanche in a week shows dangers of a warming climate

Ice avalanche kills 6 in Italian Alps, sparks mass rescue effort

Cody Townsend on Instagram

Ski the Fifty

Cody’s “Best Ski Line of 2014” video

Craig Bruenger on Instagram — His gear percussion video

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Connor Herson returns to the show, a few years older, a few inches taller, and more than a few impressive ticks under his belt. One of his latest ascents is “Empath” on gear—potentially one of the harder gear leads ever recorded. Carlo Traversi first climbed Empath and proposed 5.15a. After quickly sending the route as a sport climb, Connor had the idea of trying it on gear. In this episode he shares his experience with that process, his thoughts about the difficulty of the route, and his vision for what’s next (hint: it’s not climbing).

First, your friendly and utterly relatable hosts pay homage to a kind of trad climbing that most of y’all will be more familiar with—the everyday, everyperson experience of going up on a 5.10 or 5.11 with a rack of gear and trying to onsight your way to the top. Could this be any different from, say, the ego-fluff of Ten Sleep?

Finally, Jeremy Fullerton gives us the first-person account of one of the most epic days in Rocky Mountain National Park, when the mountains moved.

Connor Herson on Instagram.

Does Connor’s ascent of Empath on gear count as the hardest trad ascent?

Rocky Mountain National Park Closes Chaos Canyon Area Due to Rockslide

Watch Will Mondragon’s footy of the rockslide.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Today’s guest is climbing coach Justen Sjong. Justen is known for his first free ascents of Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) and The PreMuir (VI 5.13c/d) on El Capitan, and redpoints of 5.14 sport climbs. His approach to improvement in climbing is far more cerebral than most standard training fare, and his intuitions and sensibilities as a coach have helped numerous climbers mine their untapped potential by clearly mental barriers and finding the present.

But first, your egotistical hosts talk about the infamous climbing ego: the ways it can hold us back, and how it might be embraced so as to fully excel.

Our final bit comes from a late evening in a dusty desert hill, as the campfire embers cooled and all the little boys and girls had already turned in to their sleeping bags. One of our favorite climbers and musicians, Lisa Hathaway, plays us a tune.

Climbing Sensei — Book a coaching session with Justen

Follow Justen Sjong on Instagram

Training with Justen, Part 2 — Evening Sends

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Hard, scary trad climbing is all fun and games until someone breaks their back. That’s what happened to Molly Mitchell on Crank It, a 5.13+ sport climb in Boulder Canyon that Molly was attempting to headpoint on gear. Nevertheless, Molly sought redemption and returned to the climb years later and ultimately sent it on gear. But what she discovered about her self, and her health, ended up being the real prize of this inspiring journey.

But first, the hosts take a closer look at how one of the biggest and hardest routes on Denali got not one but two insane speed records set within a matter of weeks. That would be the Slovak Direct, with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau setting the pace at 21 hours, 35 minutes. Then two weeks later, Michael Gardner, Sam Hennessey and Rob Smith came in at 17 hours, 10 minutes.

Our final bit is music from an old classic.

Follow Molly Mitchell on Instagram.

Read Climbing magazine’s report on Molly’s ascent.

The Alpinist reports on the Slovak Direct.

Justification for an Elitist Attitude, by Mark Twight.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

We begin with a conversation with Ben Hanna, the newest member of the prestigious USA Climbing National Team. At 23 years young, Ben is a longtime crusher from Santa Fe who we’ve watched go from being a young grommet at Rifle to throwing down at World Cups with the world’s best. Ben talks to us about what the current comp scene is like, a short-lived controversy with the IFSC, and how living in a training house with some of the best climbers in the world upped his game.

Next, we speak with Wali Kamal, a Pakistani-American climber from California who is working to support the development of crags and climbers in Pakistan. We wanted to highlight his efforts to strengthen the Pakistani climbing community, and discuss how this kind of development is so much more meaningful than the kind that only involves placing bolts in your local choss pile.

Last but not least, we’re happy to introduce you to Bridget Epitropakis, a bright and talented climber and comedian from Australia who is currently working the comedy club scene in the front range of Colorado when she’s not out in Eldo.

Follow Ben Hanna on Instagram

IFSC Last Minute Rule Change …

Follow Wali Kamal on Instagram

Follow Zom Connection and contribute to their GoFundMe to support Pakistani climbing.

Follow Bridget Epitropakis on Instagram and Twitter

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Carlo Traversi is having one of the best climbing years of his life. He’s sending V-insane, 5.15b sport, and 5.14c trad — all while managing a successful business that immeasurably improves the lives of climbers in his own community. He’s got a healthy perspective on the sport, everyone respects him, and he’s also super smart and has interesting opinions on everything. Yeah, we hate him too!

Just kidding! Carlo is the man! We recorded this conversation earlier this year just after Carlo ticked Magic Line (5.14c), the second hardest pure trad climb in Yosemite after Meltdown, which Carlo also climbed for its first male ascent. Gawd, why is so good at climbing? We really hate him so, so much!

Again, just KIDDING!

On our final bit, we feature a blast from the past: 90s So Cal Skater er Climber Punks, 30 Foot Whipper.

We’re psyched to share this episode on our public feed so long as at least HALF of everyone who listens agrees to support this podcast by becoming a Rope Gun on Patreon. Will you do it? Will you? Please?

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

What’s better: cragging it up in a full-on scene filled with gumbies and noobs, spray bros and crusher queens? Or going off to some obscure choss pile in the middle of nowhere and enjoying the quiet solitude of nature all by yourself? We debate the pros and cons of scenes vs solitude and come to the conclusion that, no matter which one you choose, either way the only person laughing at your jokes is still just you.

Next, Freddie Wilkinson and Renan Ozturk join us to talk about their new film The Sanctity of Space, a feature-length film documenting their Tooth Traverse of the Moose’s Tooth massif in Alaska. The film, however, is a rich exploration of many profound themes in climbing, and a really compelling portrait of Bradford Washburn, the aerial mountain photographer, scientist, and mountaineer whose photograph was the original inspiration behind this ascent.

Last but not least, Jonathan Howland reads a passage from his new book Native Air.

The Sanctity of Space — Showtimes

Instagram: The Sanctity of Space. Freddie Wilkinson. Renan Ozturk.

Native Air by Jonathan Howland.

Jonathan Howland website.

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com