The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast – Details, episodes & analysis

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Neely Quinn

Sports

Health & Fitness

Frequency: 1 episode/14d. Total Eps: 334

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.

Recent rankings

Latest chart positions across Apple Podcasts and Spotify rankings.

Apple Podcasts

🇩🇪 Germany - wilderness
20/08/2026
#37
🇫🇷 France - wilderness
18/08/2026
#96
🇫🇷 France - wilderness
17/08/2026
#79
🇨🇦 Canada - wilderness
15/08/2026
#82
🇨🇦 Canada - wilderness
14/08/2026
#54
🇫🇷 France - wilderness
14/08/2026
#87
🇩🇪 Germany - wilderness
13/08/2026
#93
🇫🇷 France - wilderness
13/08/2026
#82
🇨🇦 Canada - wilderness
12/08/2026
#75
🇫🇷 France - wilderness
12/08/2026
#60

Spotify

No recent rankings available

Shared links between episodes and podcasts

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http://www.trainingbeta.com/climbing-training-programs
62 shares
http://www.trainingbeta.com/route-climbing-training-program
36 shares
https://www.trainingbeta.com/route-climbing-training-program/
26 shares

https://www.instagram.com/c4hp
9 shares
https://www.instagram.com/p
4 shares

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RSS feed quality

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Score global : 21%

Publication history

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TBP 271: How to Get Out of a Motivational Slump - Coach Alex Stiger

Episode 271

Thursday, August 29, 2024 • Duration 20:17

Coach Alex Stiger describes a 3-month slump she was in, how she methodically got out of that slump, and how she coaches her clients to get re-motivated when they've lost their psych for climbing.

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[Replay!] TBP 262: Alex Stiger Tells You How to Break into 5.12 Climbing

Episode 262

Wednesday, May 29, 2024 • Duration 01:08:54

This is a replay of an episode that originally aired in January, 2023. I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that.

She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that.

While you might predict that strength training is one of the main tools Alex uses with her clients in this situation, it is not, as she says it is very rare to find a person who is climbing 5.11 who can not climb 5.12 with the strength they already have.

So while we spend a few minutes talking about strength training, you’ll find compelling evidence in this episode that that may not be your issue. Here are some of the other topics we discuss:

Why technique and staying calm are so important
Honing the skill of resting
How to decrease intimidation of the grade
How to learn from your falling experiences
How to have more of a competition mindset
What to climb on in the gym if you’re trying to send 5.12
A better alternative to having a perfect pyramid before entering into 5.12 territory
Why repeating climbs that are sort of hard for you is an important strategy

We talk about a lot in this episode, and I highly recommend it if you’re at the 5.10 or 5.11 level, or if you’re just not consistently climbing 5.12’s and you’d like to. Even if you are climbing 5.12’s consistently, I think a lot of her tactics will help you!

Show Links

Get the 5.12 Breakthrough Series AND the Steep Climbing Workshop for 30% Off
Work with Alex as your coach
Have questions? Email or

TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase

Episode 172

Thursday, July 29, 2021 • Duration 01:01:02

About Matt Pincus

Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017.

Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases.

Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase

In the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that’s a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you’re just trying to send hard stuff.

These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it.

At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on Patreon.

If you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.

Episode Details

What is a performance phase?
Matt’s 3 tips
- HAVE a performance phase
- Be ready to put the work in
- Do prep work away from the crag to maximize your climbing days

My 5 tips (it was supposed to be 3, but I couldn’t help myself)

Show Links Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Photo Credit

TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

Episode 171

Tuesday, July 20, 2021 • Duration 59:55

Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour.

Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years.

I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I’m a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who’s been working exclusively with climbers since 2014.

In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she’s a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I’m going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on.

Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I’m back and I’m psyched! You’ll be seeing more episodes every month now that I’m re-stoked. I’ll explain more in the episode.

If you’re interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.

Q&A Details

How to work hangboarding in with a climbing session
What the deal is with intermittent fasting and climbing/training
An example meal for a rest day
On-the-wall exercises to increase finger strength
Maintaining fitness during a vacation

Show Links

TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy

Episode 170

Wednesday, July 14, 2021 • Duration 01:01:02

In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete.

Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles. She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the “season” of pregnancy.

Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach. She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two!

Joy Black Interview Details

Important things to know as pregnant athlete
Strengthening the deep core, diaphragm, and pelvic floor to support your body during pregnancy
General overview on what to expect during each of the trimesters
Importance of staying empowered and focusing on what you can be doing – which is a lot
Considerations while climbing to help minimize additional pressure on an already strained system
What is diastasis and how new research is helping women get back to strengthening the core sooner
Mindset considerations and potential hurdles plus insight on how to stay focused on your own journey
Pelvic Floor PT’s and why you should have one as part of your team
How our bodies are incredibly resilient and how pregnancy does not mean your athletic career and goals will be limited

Joy Black Links

Instagram @calliejoyblack
Email: joy@trainedbyjoy.com

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

Episode 169

Wednesday, June 9, 2021 • Duration 01:20:58

About Tyler Nelson

UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program.

In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research. By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best. He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad. His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions. While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Tyler Nelson Interview Details Tyler Nelson Links Training Programs for You

TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females

Wednesday, April 28, 2021 • Duration 59:43

Females in Climbing

In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide.

Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course.

In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long.

FREE Women’s Train Smarter Challenge Starts Next Week

On Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body’s specific needs. It’s completely free, and even if you can’t make the live calls we’ll send the recordings out to you.

Schedule of Events

Day 1: Tracking your period + How to plan your week
Day 2: Myths about Women’s Strengths and Weaknesses + Workout
Day 3: Female mindset – how hormones affect our performance mindset + tools to still perform our best
Day 4: How (and when) Women Should Strength Train + Workout
Day 5: How to use goals to create a map for success

To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below.

LEARN ABOUT THE CHALLENGE FOR WOMEN Alex Stiger Interview Details

Why we can’t train like small men
How changes in our hormones throughout the month can guide our training
Being in denial about being a woman in sport
How we can do better as women and as coaches
How everything she knew about her menstrual cycle was in hindsight before

Alex Stiger Interview Links

TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport

Episode 167

Thursday, April 15, 2021 • Duration 01:11:03

About Lauren Abernathy

Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she’s learned to effectively do both at the same time.

She’s had some great success with her clients, many of whom don’t have much time for training, so she lets us in on some tips for how to train when you’re super busy with other stuff. This one is full of little nuggets of wisdom that you can apply to your life right now, and Lauren’s excitement and passion for climbing is infectious. I really enjoyed talking with her.

If you want to learn more from Lauren…

She’s offering $100 off her new Crush It: Sport Climbing training program right now. Or you can check out her other services on her site.

Lauren Abernathy Interview Details

Going from corporate world to full-time climbing coach
How to ski and train for climbing at the same time
Minimalist finger strength training success stories
Tips for busy climbers on how to fit training into schedule
The biggest lessons she’s learned through coaching people

Lauren Abernathy Links

https://www.trainingbeta.com/www.trainingbeta.com/bouldering-training Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life

Episode 166

Thursday, March 11, 2021 • Duration 01:14:00

About ClimbWell

ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing.

They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topics:

Befriending Fear
Performance Climbing
Rock-Life Balance
Art of Attention
Successful Climbing Goals
Yoga for Climbers

They’re offering 10% off for TrainingBeta listeners using the code “trainingbeta10” and you can find more about the event in the link below:

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CLIMBWELL RETREAT

I wanted to ask them about the basics of what they’ll be teaching at the retreat, so I asked all 3 of them to be on the show. All of these topics are so relevant to all of us, but we focused a lot on finding balance in your life while also being passionate about climbing.

Please visit their website to find out more about what they teach and about the retreat at www.climbwell.co.

ClimbWell Interview Details

What people will get out of the retreat
Finding balance in your life while being passionate about climbing
Dealing with fear in climbing
Wheel of Life Coaching Tool
Climbing as an addiction – how to find balance
How are values can guide our actions appropriately
Visualization practice
How to find happiness
How to stop being so black and white about climbing and life in general

ClimbWell Links

ClimbWell Retreat (Use “trainingbeta10” for 10% off):

Training Programs for You Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Transcript

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast – Details, episodes & analysis

Podcast details

Recent rankings

Apple Podcasts

Spotify

Shared links between episodes and podcasts

RSS feed quality and score

Publication history

Latest published episodes

Related Shows Based on Content Similarities

Related Shows Based on Content Similarities

Apple Podcasts

Spotify

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast – Details, episodes & analysis

Podcast details

Recent rankings

Apple Podcasts

Spotify

Shared links between episodes and podcasts

Other99+

Apple Podcast6

Instagram70

RSS feed quality and score

Publication history

Latest published episodes

Similar podcasts and content

Related Shows Based on Content Similarities

Related Shows Based on Content Similarities

Other99+

Apple Podcast6

Instagram70

Apple Podcasts

Spotify