Ice Ice Beta – Details, episodes & analysis
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Ice Ice Beta
Aaron Gerry
Frequency: 1 episode/10d. Total Eps: 53

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🇨🇦 Canada - wilderness
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- https://aniiu.com/
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Leading From Behind the Scenes with Doug Heinrich
Season 2 · Episode 31
mercredi 28 août 2024 • Duration 01:25:36
Doug Heinrich has just about done it all and seen it all in ice climbing ⛏️ as both a climber and product designer 🧤.
Doug hails from Salt Lake City where he began climbing in the 1970s. He was an extensive route developer, including many mixed climbs in the Wasatch, competed at the X Games, and has been at the vanguard for product at Black Diamond almost from the beginning.
In this episode, we chat about:
- 🧊 The climbing scene in Utah, from early bouldering to the evolution of ice climbing, to the advent of sport climbing and sport mixed climbing
- 🧊 Lessons learned from Mugs Stump
- 🧊 The importance of humility
- 🧊 His inverted professional career
- 🧊 The evolution of Black Diamond and what most people don’t understand about the company
- 🧊 How passion projects lead to innovation, and why he’s excited about his new venture, Aniiu
Resources and links:
Doug’s not much for social media, but you should definitely check out his side project, Aniiu, which are focused on making highly technical gloves for all disciplines of ice climbing, including working with some of the world’s leading drytoolers. You can check them out at aniiu.com and follow them on IG @aniiu_gloves.
And for some behind the scenes into Black Diamond R&D and testing, here is a (sponsored, albeit interesting) article from Outside from 2014, with quotes from Doug.
...
📸: Photos by Chris Noble (@noblefoto)
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
From Dreams of Flight to Ultralight: Crafting the World’s Lightest Ice Tools with Jarek Walewski of Eliteclimb
Season 2 · Episode 30
mercredi 14 août 2024 • Duration 56:03
Eliteclimb makes the lightest ice tools in the world, and it’s not even close. It’s possible because Jarosław "Jarek" Walewski uses a mix of carbon and kevlar composites, and nothing else—the only metal in his tools are the bolts and picks.
The one-man brand has been bucking industry trends for over a decade now, and it’s his unique position as an independent craftsman that lets Jarek pursue solutions that the bigger brands ignore.
By being attuned to the community and working with some of the world’s best, their tools have been used on no oxygen ascents of Lhotse, expeditions to places like K2 and Broad Peak and at the highest-end of drytooling today.
In this episode, we chat about:
- 🧊 How Jarek came to understand composites by working in one of the best glider factories in the world
- 🧊 Why he chooses to make each tool by hand
- 🧊 The advantages of composite materials
- 🧊 Why moving fast and trying things is a good strategy
- 🧊 Being open to opportunities and feedback (positive and negative)
- 🧊 His philosophy on business, craftsmanship, and production
Resources and links:
To learn more about Eliteclimb’s tools, head to eliteclimb.com. All of their tools can be customized (from weight, strength, colors, etc.), so if you’re interested, be sure to reach out to Jarek.
On the website, you can also read trip reports from expeditions where their tools have been used. Lastly, there are more updates on their Instagram, @eliteclimb.
...
📸: Episode cover photo by Artur Małek courtesy of Jarek
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
America’s Do It All Drytooler with Kevin Lindlau
Season 2 · Episode 21
mercredi 5 juin 2024 • Duration 01:13:53
Kevin Lindlau is one of the rare birds in drytooling who excels at both comp *and* outdoor climbing. In January, Kevin completed the second ascent of “Aletheia”, rated D16 ✅, becoming only the second person in the world to climb the grade. (There’s some nuance here since other routes have been proposed at D16, but this is the first route that has been repeated and the grade corroborated). Anywho, on the comp side, Kevin was the first American to ever make World Cup Finals in Lead in 2019, and he has regularly made Finals since.
In this episode, we talk about:
- 🧊 How Kevin came to climbing after a gruesome accident that ended a promising bicycle racing career
- 🧊 Overcoming self-doubt along the way
- 🧊 The important role of mentorship in his development (shout out to Marcus Garcia)
- 🧊 How to train for high-end roof climbing and competitions in the same year
- 🧊 What most people get wrong about ARC training
- 🧊 The future of drytooling routes
- 🧊 And of course, latte art ☕️
Just a warning that Kevin gives a graphic description of his accident. If you’re squeamish, you might want to skip that part. If you’re a sadist, well, enjoy, I guess.
Resources and links:
If you’d like to follow along with Kevin’s latest latte creation, his ice axe juggling or climbing, you can follow him on Instagram @lindlaukevin.
Other notes:
We are also planning a training episode with Kevin and a few others, so if you have any questions from the episode, send me a DM and we’ll include it in that conversation.
...
📸 Cover photo by Kara Vogler (@mtnghoststudio)
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
The Throughline: Finding Narrative in All Things with Christian Beckwith
Season 1 · Episode 20
mercredi 20 mars 2024 • Duration 56:54
It’s a tale old as time: Narrative is the vehicle that connects us to something greater. And for Christian Beckwith, he’s built a career on that foundation.
You probably know of Christian, or have interacted with his work. He’s spent more than thirty years immersed in the world of alpinism, and in that time he was the editor of The American Alpine Journal, co-founded Alpinist — which Reinhold Messner once called “the greatest climbing magazine in the world” — and recently started a “hardcore history” podcast about the 10th Mountain Division called Ninety-Pound Rucksack.
If you haven’t heard of it, you might be living under the rock… but since you're listening to a climbing podcast, that very well may be the case. Regardless, it’s great and I encourage you to give it a listen.
In this episode, we don’t talk much about the podcast, instead, we hone in on:
- How to complicate seemingly simple projects by going deep
- Clues to find the narrative in anything you do
- What can happen when you follow your curiosity
Timestamps:
05:18 - From New England to the Tetons
14:45 - Building community through climbing
22:38 - Narrative as a tool for connection and change
27:25 - Exploring the awe
34:20 - Diving into the contribution of climbers on the 10th Mountain Division
42:28 - How history is written
47:56 - Climbing Riva Ridge to understand history
Resources and links:
To listen to Ninety-Pound Rucksack, head to your favorite podcast platform or learn more about it at christianbeckwith.com. If you love what Christian is doing and want to support longform narrative projects like this, I highly encourage you to become a patron at patreon.com/NinetyPoundRucksack.
Find the rest of the notes on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by Christian.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Patreon:
That's it for Season 1! If you enjoyed the conversations and want to help us do many more for Season 2, consider supporting us on Patreon. (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month).
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
It’s All About Climbing and It’s Nothing About Climbing with Jackson Yip
Season 1 · Episode 19
mercredi 6 mars 2024 • Duration 47:29
What are the things in your life that have infinite complexity upon closer inspection?
I’m betting you didn’t expect that question on a podcast about ice climbing.
But that’s Jackson Yip for ya. An atmospheric researcher by training who specializes in cloud-microphysics, Jackson is also a deeply passionate climber and alpinist who has coupled his interests in a myriad of ways.
Whether scrabbling through murky datasets or slogging to break trail, Jackson finds beauty in the mundane and labyrinthine.
In this wide-ranging conversation, we talk about:
- Cloud physics and the complexity of turbulence
- The importance of first-hand experience
- How to develop mental models
- Why we can and need to do better when evaluating ice conditions
- The mechanics of pillar collapse
- And more
Hope you enjoy this chat, I certainly did.
Timestamps:
01:41 - The concept of heat death and its implications
04:00 - Having perspective
05:37 - The complexity of cloud micro-physics
09:15 - Observing and first-hand experience
11:30 - Engineering challenges in climate research
17:58 - Predicting ice formations
20:20 - The tragic consequences of misreading ice conditions
23:10 - Mechanics of slip-out pillar collapse
28:31 - The importance of patience in climbing and life
35:38 - Accessible doesn't mean easy or safe
41:13 - The seasons of life
42:43 - Supporting socioeconomic equality
Resources and links:
If you’re interested in collaborating on one of the ice climbing models that Jackson mentioned, you can reach him at jackson.yip@utah.edu. To connect with him on Instagram, he’s @jp_yip. You can learn more about his research on his website: jpyip.com
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by Jackson Yip
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
On Making Technical Apparel in the U.S. with Bill Amos
Season 1 · Episode 18
mercredi 28 février 2024 • Duration 01:00:37
It’s rare to find American-made climbing companies. The shortlist includes the likes of Metolius, Organic, Misty Mountain, UnParallel, and a handful of rope producers.
It’s even rarer to find technical apparel made in the U.S., which makes NW Alpine so distinct. And by technical, I mean purpose-built clothing designed for the elements, not adventureleisure masquerading as such.
Anywho, the idea for NWA was born out of the 2008 financial crisis. Founded by Bill Amos, a quote-unquote “climber dude” at the time, he wanted to understand what was happening and brushed up on economics. He concluded that basing the economy on financial shenanigans instead of manufacturing wasn’t the way to go.
So, his solution to one of the worst recessions in the history of the country was to create a pair of pants. At its height, the company employed 75 people and put millions back into the local economy.
In this episode, we talk about how NW Alpine is developing innovative apparel (in the true sense of the word), the economic and free trade factors that led to mass offshoring, and how many of your favorite brands are making huge profits off the back of exploited labor.
NWA harkens back to an older ethos for climbing companies. I particularly enjoyed this chat and hope you do too.
Timestamps:
02:00 - Bill's climbing journey
05:57 - Adventures in the Cascades and Alaska
20:10 - The birth of Northwest Alpine
20:13 - Understanding the economic shift in the U.S.
24:41 - The impact of offshoring on the U.S. manufacturing
33:01 - Journey to Kachatna: Scaling manufacturing
37:37 - Rise and fall of Kachatna Apparel
40:59 - Innovation in apparel: The Fortis line and rainproofness post-PFAS
50:36 - The reality of how products are made overseas
58:03 - The Future of Northwest Alpine
Resources and links:
Bill is graciously giving away two Black Spider Hoodies for listeners — one men’s and one women’s. To enter, head to our Instagram @ice_ice_beta to find the details.
If you’d like to follow along with what NW Alpine is up to, their Instagram is @nwalpinegear. To check out their products head to nwalpine.com. They have several new lines dropping this year.
Here is the video of Sir James Goldsmith predicting the future impact of the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) in an interview with Charlie Rose (which we reference in the episode). And NW Alpine's blog also has a lot of great trip reports from the past 14 years.
This is the "contentious" IG post where Bill breaks down how much overseas workers are paid to make expensive outdoor apparel.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the NW Alpine courtesy of GearJunkie
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
Building Community Through the Adirondack Queer Ice Fest with Melissa Orzechowski
Season 1 · Episode 17
mercredi 21 février 2024 • Duration 49:13
Today on Ice Ice Beta, we’re chatting with Melissa Orzechowski of The Adirondack Queer Ice Fest 🌈 a no-cost ice climbing festival solely dedicated to the LGBTQ+ outdoor community.
When the idea first came about, the organizers, Melissa, Robbi, and Nol, thought they might be the only attendees — something for just the three of them. They didn’t know how big the community was in the Adirondacks, or beyond. When 40 people showed up in the middle of a blizzard — many of whom hadn’t ice climbed before — they knew there was a need.
Now in their third year, they keep being surprised: Registration filled up within 45 minutes.
In this episode, we talk about why identity-based affinity spaces are important, the power of starting (however small), and being the change you want to see.
Timestamps:
01:32 - Melissa's (sandbagged) journey into ice climbing
06:31 - Organizing in college and beyond
11:20 - Moving to the Adirondacks and building community
18:56 - The start of the Adirondack Queer Ice Fest
25:55 - The importance of affinity spaces in climbing
37:26 - Overcoming gear challenges
45:37 - Future plans and aspirations
Resources and links:
While registration is full, you can support the festival by donating on gofundme.
And if you’d like to follow along with this year’s event, and stay up to date for future happenings, their Instagram is @adirondack_queer_ice_fest. Melissa's IG is @melissaormo.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the Adirondack Queer Ice Fest
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!
Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you’re looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice’s gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer.
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
Community Spotlight: Jon Blackwood
Season 1
mercredi 14 février 2024 • Duration 31:38
This is the first of a new series — the Community Spotlight — which is a way to celebrate everyday folks who are helping to grow the sports of ice climbing and drytooling.
You may have seen Jon Blackwood’s shipping container project on Instagram (which he is working on with Johnny Korthuis), if you’re curious like I was this chat is about what he’s up to.
For Jon, his journey into drytooling began with a quest for mental healing. The discipline has become more than a tool for therapy though, in his words, “It’s a passion, a lifestyle, and a path to personal growth”.
As a larger-framed individual, traditional rock climbing presented challenges, but drytooling opened a world of possibilities. The deeper he got, the deeper he got, and he ultimately invested in coaching and built his own training wall. In two years, he went from barely being able to hold onto tools to figure 4ing to competing at the competition level.
Through it all, it’s been the tight-knit and supportive community that Jon appreciates most. Whether it’s cheering each other on during comps or generously sharing knowledge, there’s a genuine desire to foster a love for the sport — and Jon is certainly doing his part too.
From welcoming people to climb at his home wall, The Nook, to developing a new outdoor drytooling venue, Jon wants to give back to the sport that has already given so much to him.
Timestamps:
01:24 - Building a climbing structure with shipping containers
04:24 - The motivation behind the project
05:58 - The importance of vertical training
10:20 - Personal journey into drytooling
10:27 - The impact of climbing on mental health
15:41 - Building a drytooling community
19:52 - Asking for help
Resources and links:
Perhaps drytooling has had a big impact on your own life, and you dig what Jon is up to. If you’d like to support Jon’s projects, you can donate through PayPal. His email is spreken@gmail.com. Money will go towards holds and construction materials.
You can also follow along with his journey on Instagram @living.forward.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the Jon.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
Thanks to Forecast Equipment for supporting this episode!
Jon uses their tools and has connected with the team on a personal level. That’s because they care about their customers — Marty, Zac and Brian focus on creating products for climbers like themselves which led them to develop their do-it-all Nor*easter. The tools handle everything from moderate snow gullies to steep-and-mixy to World Cup comps and they come stock with Krukonogi picks, cheeks, and hammers so you can configure them to fit your needs. To learn more about their products, check them out at forecastequipment.com.
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
Onward and Upward: The Scottish Dry-Tooling Club with Willis Morris and Oz Miller
Season 1 · Episode 16
mercredi 7 février 2024 • Duration 01:11:29
We’re headed across the pond on this episode of Ice Ice Beta. Today, we’re chatting with Willis Morris and Oz Miller of the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club. The club has been called the developmental model of the future, a rolling circus, and bonkers by various authorities.
But what is the organization, how does it work, and why has it been so successful in just a few short years?
A few anecdotes to highlight their success:
- They are the largest dry-tooling club in the world, with hundreds of members.
- The GB Youth Ice Climbing Team, who are part of the Club, are one of, if not the, strongest, in the world. Meanwhile, most other national teams have few, if any, youth members.
- And most importantly — by internal metrics — the psyche is very, very high.
With a rapid growth trajectory and big plans, the future is bright. After listening to Willis and Oz, you’ll likely agree — they’re quite convincing!
Timestamps:
01:39 - Getting to Cheongsong, South Korea isn't as easy as you'd think
07:27 - Meet Willis and Oz
08:20 - Starting the Scottish Dry Tooling Club
13:21 - The growth of the Club and its influence on the climbing community
23:22 - Importance of culture
29:01 - Scottish winter climbing
32:33 - Every climber, even Dave MacLeod, can learn something from dry-tooling
40:50 - The future of ice climbing: winter sport climbing?
41:45 - Success at the comp level (and elsewhere)
55:14 - The future of the Scottish Dry Tooling Club
59:15 - Ice climbing in the Olympics?
01:04:13 - Advice for starting a dry tooling initiative
Resources and links:
If you’d like to learn more about the Scottish DTC, their Instagram has all the important links. It is @scottishdrytoolingclub.
As Willis mentions in the interview, the 7th and final round of the UIAA Ice Climbing Continental Cup for the season is taking place in Sunderland, UK this Saturday, February 10. Live streaming will be available for the finals.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!
Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you’re looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice’s gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer.
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
Projecting Balance: Mixing Hard Mixed Climbing and Life with Jon Nicolodi
Season 1 · Episode 15
mercredi 31 janvier 2024 • Duration 01:15:10
What goes into projecting first free ascent winter lines in New Hampshire?
That’s the subject of today’s chat with Jon Nicolodi, a humble MBA student and hard mixed climbing hard man. (Those are my words, he certainly would not describe himself that way.)
Surprisingly, Jon’s only been mixed climbing a few years but has established some big winter FFAs in that time — the routes range from M8 to M11 and all are on some of the most prominent walls in the state. These include, “Across the Great Divide” (M8 R, 5 pitches, 550′) on Cannon Cliff, “The Resistance” (M10, 5 pitches, 360′) on Mount Washington, and “Cathedral Direct” (5.12b M11 WI5, 7 pitches).
In an Alpinist recap describing a few of the climbs, Rick Wilcox, one of the most accomplished mountaineers in the area and a trailblazing climber in his own right, described what Jon is doing as “state-of-the-art as far as difficulty goes” for New England.
Listen on to hear about Jon’s search for balance, how he trains, and get a great play-by-play of “Cathedral Direct Direct”, a 7-pitch, 5.12b, M11, WI5 route he freed with Chris Saulnier in February of last year.
Timestamps:
02:41 - The appeal of winter climbing
06:29 - Balancing climbing and career
13:25 - The impact of Outward Bound
24:36 - The process of projecting hard climbs
37:14 - Evolving Dry-Tooling Ethics at Cathedral Cave
38:09 The art of finding potential climbs
40:28 - Gear: What he takes on climbs
46:21 - Training for climbing
51:45 - The story of "Cathedral Direct Direct"
1:07:12 - The Importance of partnerships
1:11:44 - Looking forward: Balancing climbing and Life
Resources and links:
If you’d like to hire Jon, you can connect with him at @jon_nicolodi on Instagram.
Here are a few articles that highlight Jon's other climbs, which we didn’t get to in this episode:
- Alpinist recap of "Across the Great Divide" and "The Resistance"
- Jon's American Alpine Club write up of "Across the Great Divide"
- Jon's IG post about "Cathedral Direct Direct"
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo by Erik Howes.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!
Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you’re looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice’s gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer.
Patreon:
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Credits:
- Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
- This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.
- And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!
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