How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits – Details, episodes & analysis

In episode 102, women’s workwear brand founder Aditi Sinha speaks out against pocket inequality for women in the workplace. Hear how she is leveraging extensive research and customer feedback to close this gap - not just with the size of pockets - through her brand Point of View Label. 

Aditi Sinha is the founder & CEO of Point of View, a Seattle based functional and designer workwear brand on a mission to end pockets inequality for women through smartphone pockets in everything they make. POV has started the 'Pockets Pledge' movement, a change.org petition where women all over the world demand functional pockets from the fashion industry.

With over 15 years of work experience, Aditi is a big tech marketing executive alum with the likes of Amazon as well as early member of decacorn start ups back home in India. In her role as a founder and former corporate business leader, she has mentored multiple women and start ups in the early stages of their professional journey. Aditi is passionate about bringing meaningful change with respect to women's equity and diversity. 

• Aditi’s point of view on women’s workwear
• Why pocket inequality is a big deal in the workplace
• The research Aditi did before starting POV and what it revealed about today’s women in the workforce
• How Point of View Label’s brand tenants helped curate their debut collection
• How Aditi met her co-founder Sakina
• How Aditi collects and organizes customer feedback in a way that is useful for future reference
• When polarizing designs are a good thing

• Point of View Label website
• Point of View Label Instagram

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In episode 101, Kalia Carter gets real about the challenges she’s faced creating BodyCon The Brand exclusively to fit full-bust women. She’s faced pushback from factories and internet trolls alike for her unwavering focus on full-bust fit, but she’s also created the pieces she’s always wished she could wear and has a growing community of women in her niche that get it and support what she’s building.

Kalia started BodyCon the Brand as a fuller-bust clothing brand. Growing up she had always struggled to find pieces she was comfortable in, that flattered her, and that actually fit. This applied to almost everything: bras, tops, dresses, and swimsuits. You name it! Everything was either too small on the chest and fit the waist, or fit the chest and was too big on the waist! Kalia started this brand to attempt to solve this problem! She first launched in March of 2024 and has been able to serve hundreds of happy customers. Kalia is actively working on new pieces and always looking for inspiration in new trends!

• How Kalia developed and stays firm on BodyCon The Brand’s full-bust size chart
• How to communicate sizing effectively for e-commerce 
• The expensive lesson Kalia learned about manufacturing
• Why Kalia uses a different factory for each of her designs
• How Kalia develops her tech packs without having good comp samples to reference
• The good and the bad sides of going viral for your business
• The number one thing that has fueled BodyCon The Brand’s social media growth

• BodyCon The Brand website
• BodCon The Brand Instagram

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In episode 92, The Shortlist founder Laura Briggs gives us a detailed look at how her fun and cheeky petite-only brand has reached profitability. From pricing and production to business operations, Laura describes the growing pains she’s gone through and the huge milestones she’s reached as she’s scaled her 3-year-old business.

Laura was also my guest two years ago on How Fitting episode 37 where she talked about how she first started The Shortlist and what her first year of entrepreneurship looked like.

The Shortlist is a premium, limited edition petite fashion brand.

• Why Laura moved production from the UK to Poland
• How many collections The Shortlist released before it became profitable
• What the turning point was for profitability
• What Laura is changing since realizing The Shortlist customer base is wider than she originally thought
• The balance between innovative designs and familiar basics
• How The Shortlist has built exceptional loyalty and repeat business from its customers
• Laura’s genius system for celebrating how far the business has come at each step
• The rollercoaster of launch day and what Laura is doing to minimize the challenges
• How Laura balances sharing her personal entrepreneur story and The Shortlist brand voice in her marketing and copywriting
• Laura’s plan for scaling The Shortlist this year
• How Laura’s long-term goal for The Shortlist drives her decisions now

• The Shortlist website
• The Shortlist Instagram
• The Shortlist LinkedIn

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Daphne Benzaquen is the creative designer, CEO and founder of daph., a St. Louis-based fashion and lifestyle brand inspired by her Peruvian heritage.

She was inspired to start daph. while pursuing her M.B.A. at Washington University’s Olin School of Business. After having trouble finding a backpack that was functional, high quality, and fashionable, she decided to design her own bag, incorporating the unique materials and craftsmanship of Peru, and daph. was born.

Founded in 2016, daph. is one of the only U.S. fashion and lifestyle brands that solely combines modern, timeless designs with Peruvian resources and handcraftsmanship.

Daphne is passionate and committed to giving back, donating a portion of all daph. sales to support children with special needs in Peru. She also supports local charities in daph.’s headquarters, and is actively involved in the St. Louis fashion community, helping to mentor and support other designers and entrepreneurs, as well as serving as the marketing committee co-chair for Fashion Group International, Inc. Additionally, she serves on the Young Professionals Board for Annie’s Hope.

In 2019, Daphne was named one of St. Louis Business Journal’s ’30 under 30’, and has been featured in many local media publications and news outlets, including St. Louis Post-Dispatch, Riverfront Times, Ladue News, Town & Style, Fox 2 News, ‘Show Me St. Louis’, STL TV, and more.

• How a degree in Pre-Med, a Masters in Business Administration, and her Peruvian heritage lead Daphne to start her fashion lifestyle brand daph.
• Why she made giving back such a big part of her brand and business -- even when she was a brand-new start-up -- and the impact it’s had.
• How she found the factory that produced her first collection (who she still works with to this day).
• How she balances designing products that she personally likes with products that her customers love to buy.
• What she’s learned adding an apparel product line to daph. 
• How Daphne sees her customers and manufacturing partners like a community and how that has helped her during low points in her entrepreneurial journey.
• When she has learned to trust her gut. 
• Why Daphne thinks it is so important for designers to visit the factories that make their products.
• What’s next for daph. - Daphne gives us a sneak peak of what’s coming for Fall 2020 and Spring 2021!

• daph. website
• daph. on Instagram
• Daphne on LinkedIn
• Daphne’s email

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After watching the fashion documentary "The True Cost", Jessica couldn't "un-see" the facts about the impact of the fashion industry on the world. That began her journey to examine her own relationship with fashion and eventually start her brand, Mount Indigo, to spread awareness and advocate for a more sustainable fashion future.

Jessica currently splits her time between a corporate job in fashion as the Associate Manager of Brand Marketing for Soft Surroundings, a volunteer position as the Regional Director for Fashion Group International of Saint Louis, and growing her sustainable fashion startup brand, Mount Indigo. She specializes in fashion marketing and public relations and is very passionate about creating a more sustainable fashion industry.

• How watching a documentary about the impact of the fashion industry on our world prompted Jessica to start a sustainable brand
• What she did to start the brand and how she had to shift her vision to stay true to her mission
• How she decided what products would go in her launch collection
• How customer feedback is informing her messaging and sales pitch
• Why having colleagues and friends to bounce ideas off of is so important
• How she juggles a full-time day job, volunteering for a professional non-profit, and her start-up
• How her sustainability research and brand launch have impacted her own buying habits

• The True Cost documentary
• Mount Indigo’s website
• Mount Indigo on Instagram
• Jessica on Instagram
• Jessica on LinkedIn
• Jessica’s email

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Hello and welcome to the How Fitting podcast. I’m Alison Hoenes. On this podcast, you’ll get to hear from independent fashion designers and entrepreneurs about how they grow their business making clothes that fit their customer and values. 

I’ll be your host for this show, but I’m also a freelance patternmaker who helps independent womenswear brands keep control of product development without the technical hassle.

As a patternmaker, I care about how clothes fit. There is something special about how well-fitting clothes make us feel. But even beyond how a garment physically fits a body, I think our clothes should also fit well with our lifestyle and values. Clothes affect our view of ourselves and others and how we go about manufacturing and buying them reflects what our values are. How do my designs fit with my market niche? How do I make this specific style or trend fit my customer? How do I find a factory that fits my business needs? How do I find fabrics that fit with my brand’s value of sustainability? How do I make sure my designs really fit an inclusive size range? These or similar questions are things you’ve probably asked concerning your own brand.

And you’re not alone. I have conversations about these topics all the time with fashion business owners. These conversations are what inspired me to start this podcast to share these "fitting" stories and questions from independent fashion businesses. While the answers to these questions, the exact business values, and specific target markets are slightly different for each brand, I think there is alot that can be learned from seeing how other brands fit it all together. My goal is that you’ll find these stories inspiring and insightful and they’ll help you find the right fit for each area of your fashion business.

So, again, welcome! I’m glad you’ve joined me and I hope you are as excited as I am to hear these conversations. 

To make sure you never miss an episode, go ahead and subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Play, or Stitcher and visit howfittingpodcast.com for show notes and links to resources mentioned in each episode. 

I’d love to hear from you as well! What questions do you have? Do you have a fitting story you’d like to share? Reach out to me anytime here.

Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

In episode 91, hear how former opera singer Suzanne Vinnik designs bold, inclusive fashions that make women “feel seen” and encourage them to take up space for who they are. Knowing first hand what it is like to be exploited working in the arts, Suzanne runs her business differently. Her secret to success both on and off the stage is prioritizing community and personal relationships and paying everyone she works with living wages.

Suzanne Vinnik, a distinguished figure in both classical music and the fashion world, boasts a richly diverse career path. Originally traveling the world as an opera singer, Suzanne performed at renowned venues such as Carnegie Hall, Lincoln Center, and notable opera houses across Europe, Russia, Norway and the United States. As a leading soprano, some of her favorite operas included "Manon Lescaut," Nedda in "Pagliacci," Mimi and Musetta"La bohème," and Violetta "La traviata," captivating audiences with her emotive performances.

Parallel to her operatic endeavors, Suzanne embarked on entrepreneurial ventures, founding Shoperatic, a pioneering social media network and marketplace tailored for women in classical music. This platform served as a hub for artists to connect, collaborate, and showcase their talents, solidifying Suzanne's reputation as an innovator within the industry. Users could buy, rent, sell and promote their outside skills. 

Driven by her passion for fashion and a commitment to inclusivity, Suzanne transitioned seamlessly into the realm of design, launching "byVINNIK," a luxury womenswear brand celebrated for its size-inclusive ethos and ethically manufactured garments. Based in the heart of Los Angeles, Suzanne's designs have graced the frames of Classical Music luminaries, Broadway stars, and prominent figures in television and film. 

The impact of Suzanne's creations extends beyond the realm of entertainment, with her designs featured prominently on platforms like Disney+, Netflix, and HBOMax's acclaimed series "The White Lotus," on Jennifer Coolidge earning recognition with an Emmy nomination for Outstanding Contemporary Costumes. Her work frequently adorns red carpets, editorial spreads, and stages worldwide, embodying a fusion of sophistication, elegance, and inclusivity.

Suzanne holds a Bachelor of Music in Vocal Performance from Texas Christian University, supplemented by studies at prestigious institutions such as Mannes College of Music and Otis College of Design. She further honed her craft at the Opera Studio of Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in Rome, mentored by the late Renata Scotto, and as an Administration Fellow at The Dallas Opera's Hart Institute for Women Conductors.

Beyond her artistic pursuits, Suzanne is a passionate advocate for entrepreneurship, ethical manufacturing practices, and classical music education. Her expertise as a textile connoisseur, style forecaster, and classical music aficionado has positioned her as a sought-after keynote speaker at conferences, and universities, and as an expert for popular TV Shows like Today Show and Access Hollywood. Through her inspiring journey from opera singer to fashion designer, Suzanne empowers women of all backgrounds to embrace their confidence and individuality, embodying the transformative power of artistic expression.

• Why Suzanne left a worldwide career in opera to start a fashion brand
• The transformative power of owning your boldness and dressing accordingly
• How Suzanne created a loyal community before she even started her brand
• How the personal relationships she’s built with her clients influences her design decisions
• Why ethical production and paying fair wages are so important to Suzanne
• The people on Suzanne’s team and what they each do in the business
• How By Vinnik’s production model has changed and why
• How Suzanne prioritizes her day to not burn out even though she’s “bad at boundaries”
• What Suzanne has learned the hard way about the fashion industry
• Why Suzanne designs a lot of outerwear for her collection

• By Vinnik website
• By Vinnik Instagram

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In episode 90, hear how Aja Cohen left her big corporate fashion career for a lifestyle - and fashion business - that put relationships and her values first. Transcendent Active is helping women embrace who they are and move confidently toward their goals. Her modest activewear designs aren’t just covering, but also comfortable, sustainable, and functional and are worn by more than just the modest community.

After designing fast fashion for over a decade, Aja Cohen launched an activewear brand for the woman she believed was not being spoken to in the marketplace - the modest woman.  At the time, she struggled to find modest activewear pieces that weren’t made of heavy, non-breathable fabrics or couldn’t wick sweat away properly. More importantly, she couldn't find brands that matched her strong ethical values of sustainability and locally made.  She knew there had to be a better option for women who wanted to workout, do good for Mother Earth, and honor their religious values.  Transcendent Active was born at the height of the Covid pandemic and combines eco-conscious fashion with strong ethical values.  Made in America from recycled plastic water bottles, the brand is committed to providing women of all faiths and sizes with high-quality, sustainable activewear. The signature All Day Active collection includes skirts, exercise dresses, quarter-sleeve tops, leggings, and bike shorts. Transcendent Active believes every woman deserves clothing that supports her lifestyle and faith while fostering confidence and style through movement.

• The positives and negatives of Aja’s corporate career in activewear design
• Why knowing your customer is so important
• How Aja has built a healthy business without selling on Amazon or manufacturing overseas
• Why the pandemic was actually a great time to start a business for Aja
• How Aja cultivates real connections and relationships with the people she works with
• How Aja decides her priorities and delegates the work to get it done
• How Aja approaches the difficult decisions of hiring and firing
• How customer research has shaped Transcendent Active’s collection
• Transcendent Active’s sustainability efforts
• How to stay focused on your values

• Transcendent Active website
• Transcendent Active Instagram
• Transcendent Active Facebook
• Transcendent Active LinkedIn
• Transcendent Active TikTok

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In episode 89, hear how Janet St Cyr & Diana Kerins have created a swim and resort brand inspired by nature and travel. Learn what this mother-daughter partnership did to land a dream collaboration with a luxury resort and how they are growing their business slowly and steadily.

Bambina is a women’s swim and resortwear brand owned and operated by mother-daughter duo Janet St Cyr and Diana Kerins. Their creations blend bold, vibrant aesthetics with unparalleled comfort to ignite confidence and happiness in those who wear them.

They’re committed to keeping production right here in the USA and their collections are sewn at a women-owned factory in the heart of New York City’s garment district.  From how they source materials to how they manufacture and package their products, they’re always learning and seeking out the most Earth-friendly ways to bring their collections to you. 

Bambina’s new resortwear launch for Summer ‘24 - The  Cardamom Collection, includes a beachwear robe and sarong featuring a custom print inspired by the endangered species of the Cardamom Rainforest in Cambodia. A percentage of proceeds from every sale will go towards The Wildlife Alliance to protect these beautiful and vulnerable creatures.

• How nature, the environment, and travel inspire Bambina Swim collections
• What it is like working as a remote mother-daughter partnership
• Why Bambina business started out sporadic and what changed for Janet and Diana to take it more seriously
• What Janet and Diana look for and design in a quality garment
• Why Janet and Diana are intentionally growing the business slowly
• How Bambina gets its funding
• How Janet and Diana landed a collaboration with a luxury resort to stock their recent collection
• What Diana and Janet’s goals are for the future of Bambina

• Get 10% off at bambinaswim.com with code: HOWFITTING
• Bambina Swim website
• Bambina Swim Instagram

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In episode 88, textile sourcing rep Jay Arbetman of The Sourcing District walks us through how to source wholesale fabric for your independent fashion brand - even in low quantities. Jay shares insights on fabric quality, sustainable fibers, and how to not spend months on your fabric search. With decades in the business, Jay knows what questions designers should ask and what has helped his longest-standing clients be so successful.

Jay has been in the garment and textile business since he was a teen. He spent the 1980's in NYC selling to department stores and specialty stores throughout the country. When he stopped making apparel, he started selling buttons and zippers and eventually morphed into fabric. He now represents 10 suppliers and sells to indie designers throughout the country.

• Why fashion brands should never buy fabric at retail stores
• What makes the suppliers Jay represents ideal for independent designers
• What designers need to have prepared before talking to a sourcing rep
• How to source fabrics in-person, over the phone, and at trade shows
• How to not spend months on your fabric search
• The questions Jay wishes designers would ask
• Do you get what you pay for when it comes to fabric?
• The cost of made in the USA textiles
• What MOQs and timeline to expect for sampling and production
• What differentiates successful designers in the long run
• What is new in sustainable textiles 

• The Sourcing District website
• Jay’s email
• The Sourcing District Instagram
• The Textile Show in Nashville April 3-4, 2024

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