We’ll be taking a break from the podcast for the holidays, but in the meantime, enjoy this special compilation episode celebrating all of the amazing guests who have joined us on First Ascent since the reboot. 

Thank you so much for supporting the show, especially as I’ve navigated a reboot after we all lost Lee. Have a wonderful holiday season, and enjoy this best of episode! 

If you’re in need of more First Ascent throughout the holidays, now is an amazing time to join the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and dozens more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Devil’s Lake crushers Kenz Hack and Garrett Hopkins join the show today to shine a light on the fantastic climbing community that has popped up at the Lake in recent years. 

You’ll hear about the new zine Dirtbag the Lake, Kenz’s approach to climbing photography, how the current Devil’s Lake climbing community has grown and changed since Jay’s time, plus some awesome climbing tales from Devil’s Lake and beyond. 

Visit www.Kenzhackcreative.com to get your copy of the Dirtbag the Lake zine

Follow Kenz, Garrett and Crimpers of the Purple Wave on Instagram 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

New Hampshire silent crusher Franky Lapatino is on the show today to talk about the completion of his impressive project: ticking every route on the lower parking lot area at Rumney. We’ll talk about what inspired him to take on the project and Franky will share opinions of the underrated and overrated routes he ticked during the project. 

Then, Franky will talk us through how he went about projecting the crack climb 357 (aka Angel) throughout 2022. You can check out a video of his send of 357 here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Our Official Science Correspondent Kathrine Hinkle joins us for the first time today for an in-depth chat about the geological history of the rocks we climb. Learn how the rock faces of New Hampshire were formed, and get her expert insight on how climate change is affecting the climbing season. Plus, Katherine also weighs in on the most  controversial First Ascent Pod topic of all - sunshirts. 

Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Lee and Jay discuss link-ups and eliminates as Lee poses the question: When (if ever) are link-ups and eliminates worthy of being considered their own separate routes? 

What do you think? Let us know on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

This week Jay and Lee are joined by Pat Cooke, an avid ice climber and regular at Russell Crag during the warm months. Pat has led over 1,000 ice climbs in the last 18 years, so he has a thing or two to share about the sport, including his approach to safety and how to sustain long term enjoyment in the sport. 

Plus, hear Pat’s unvarnished opinions about Jay and Lee’s work on the lines at Russell Crag! 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today, Jay and Lee share their thoughts around everyone’s least favorite part of climbing - falling. It's natural to feel a little (or a lot of!) fear around falling, but by knowing how to prepare and process your risk, you can cut a bit of the anxiety and handle it in a graceful way. 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee ask: are the right people making it to the top of the sport? And should we even think about it that way? In a world where social media prowess can heavily influence professional success, some excellent climbers are being left behind. At the same time, some average climbers with savvy social media skills are experiencing financial success beyond their skill level. The guys discuss how this has changed the climbing community as a whole. Plus, should it even matter to everyday climbers?

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Each new route is a unique labor of love for its developer; one that takes patience, care and creativity. Today, Lee and Jay share their process for creating new routes, and lay out general things to keep in mind if you plan to develop one yourself. 

Are you interested in learning more about bolting? Check out part one: The Science of Bolting!

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today’s episode is all about bolts. Jay and Lee share their thoughts on the ins and outs of each type of bolt, red flags to look for when using bolts out on the crag, and how to choose the right anchor for your particular situation. 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

On sights, flash and projects - each style of climbing requires a totally unique mentality. Today, Jay and Lee discuss the important role that mindset plays in all types of climbing experiences. 

How does your view on mindset compare with ours? Let us know on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Totem cams, Quads and even (Jay believes) sun shirts - some climbers become so connected to their gear that it seems to become a part of their personality. Today, Jay and Lee discuss the point at which gear preference veers from beneficial to overzealous. Then, the guys explore ways to politely speak about route difficulty in order to make all skill levels of climbers feel included at the crag. 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Projecting a new route is one of the most enjoyable parts of climbing, but it can also be one of the most difficult. Today, Lee and Jay chat about the most integral things you need to have for a positive and productive projecting experience. 

Plus, in honor of Lee’s upcoming wedding, Lee and Jay each share how they proposed to their favorite climbing partners.

What do you believe are the key elements of projecting? Let us know on Instagram at @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

New York climbing legend Jim Lawyer is on the pod today to talk about the art of writing a guidebook. Jim is the co-author of Adirondack Rock: A Rock Climber’s Guide, an extremely comprehensive guidebook that covers 3,100 routes on more than 320 cliffs within the Adirondacks. 

Today, Jim and I cover what prompted him to tackle his huge project, the unique experiences that occur in the process of writing a guidebook, important priorities to keep in mind when writing a guidebook, and the importance of including the community in the guidebook writing process. 

Check out the guidebook here! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

All the best crags have a pecking order, and the social scene can feel pretty intense. In this episode, Jay and Lee debate how to handle it if you feel like you’re being ranked by other climbers out on the crag. 

Then the guys break down what they each think are the most useful ways to learn anchor fundamentals (hint - it’s definitely not from Instagram). 

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Magnus Mitdbø recently shared a video where he free solo-ed for the first time -  seemingly against his better judgment - with Alex Honnold. Jay and Lee share their thoughts on why the video, and ones like it, set a dangerous precedent when it comes to climbing safety. Plus, listen to these two aging climbers do a shallow dive on how much climbing media has changed since they were coming up in the pre-internet era. 

Youtube: “Magnus Midtbø: Climbing with Alex Honnold **Insane Experience**”

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=Cyya23MPoAI&feature=emb_title

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Get to know a bit about Jay and Lee and how they each found their passion for climbing. Then, listen to them spray about their favorite recent climbs and learn why they believe they are experiencing the golden age of Waterville Valley climbing. 


Climbing in the Waterville Valley area:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107346408/wm-waterville-valley

Dickey Ledge climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120605174/high-camp-crags

Yellowjacket climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108300240/yellowjacket-area

Mount Oceola climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120605174/high-camp-crags

Russell Crags climbing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120706547/russell-crags

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

New England climbers Ryan Loiselle and Dan Knisell join Jay on the show today to talk about their very cool new business - Real Stone Holds. 

The guys share the benefits of using stone holds when doing indoor climbing, the unique process they use to craft each stone hold, the experience they’ve had building a business in the climbing industry, and how they’re balancing their personal climbing goals with their business goals. 

Check out Real Stone Holds full line of products here.  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ladd Raine, President of the Rumney Climber’s Association, is on the pod today to talk all about Rumney and the upcoming AAC Craggin’ Classic on Sept 6-8. 

Ladd and I talk about what a local climbing organization (LCO) does, the history of the Rumney Climber’s Association and The Craggin’ Classic, what to expect at The Craggin’ Classic, how to report if a bolt needs to be replaced at Rumney, and all of the ways to get involved in your LCO if you want to help with the stewardship of the crag. 

The AAC Craggin’ Classic is coming to Rumney on Sept 6-8. Learn all about it here.

Get involved or donate to the Rumney Climber’s Association here. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Nate Liles is back on the pod! If you watch climbing media, you’ve most likely seen Nate’s work as a videographer and photographer. Today he’ll take us behind the scenes to give us a glimpse of what it takes to create awesome climbing media. 

We’ll talk about the challenging process of rigging equipment to capture the ascent, the considerations Nate keeps in mind when using drones for footage, the business side of climbing media, and a few tips and tricks he uses to create compelling final products. 

Learn more about Nate’s work at Orographic.Studio or on Instagram @orographic.visual

Check out Nate’s first interview here, where he talks about his work with the American Safe Climbing Association. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Certified Performance Climbing Coach Leif Gasch of Substr8 Climbing is on the show today for a deep dive conversation about the fundamentals of training. 

We’ll talk about how to know when you’re ready for training, the importance of setting a strong foundation for your body, cultivating an open mindset toward climbing, and how to schedule training so that you don’t have to give up days at the crag. 

To learn more about Leif’s personalized training plans, check out https://www.substr8climbing.com/ or visit @substr8_climbing on Instagram. 

References: 

The Rock Climber’s Training Manual by Mike Anderson

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

We’re officially entering into a new phase of the First Ascent Podcast, and I could think of no one better to join me than my longtime climbing buddy, James Schroeder. 

With over 27 years of climbing under his belt, James has a lot of insight to offer. So, we’ll tackle some recently submitted listener questions. You’ll hear our thoughts about the responsibilities of a guide, how to successfully progress with trad climbing, the best way to give back to the climbing community, and the ethics of developing routes if you’re a visitor to an area. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

On May 21st, First Ascent co-host Lee Hansche passed away while setting routes at the climbing gym while he worked. Today, Jay is releasing the final episode that they recorded together, as it reflects what a great man Lee was and what a joy it was to speak with him about climbing. 

If you would like to donate in Lee’s name, please visit https://www.gofundme.com/f/lee-hansche. The proceeds will be split between the Rumney Climbers Association and the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association, two organizations that support climbing areas that Lee loved so much. 

In this episode, originally titled Honnold & Midtbø Revisited + Lies on Action Direct, Jay and Lee share their thoughts on recent controversial happenings in the climbing sphere. They’ll rehash their opinions about Alex Honnold and Magnus Midtbø’s free solo in light of Magnus’s reaction video with his girlfriend. (Check out our first episode on that free solo here) Then, they’ll break down the controversy surrounding Said Belhaj’s claim that he sent Action Directe. And finally, they’ll bring it closer to home with a history of the ladder controversy at Waimea, since it has begun to heat up once again. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

One of the coolest things about climbing is the rich historical lineage behind each route. From cans on spires, to guide books and magazines, and now Mountain Project, documentation that traces the history of a climb is an inspiring thing that connects us to the past. 

Not every route has a pristine historical record, however. This has caused a rift in the community. A rift that has brought some older climbers to make the claim that there are no first accents left at all - which we think is patently untrue. 

Today, we lay out our defense for why first ascents are still possible, the historical reasons why it’s important to publicly acknowledge your first ascents, the importance of being open to learning about first ascents that were not originally recorded, and how we can work together to deepen the historical record for future climbers. 

Plus, we’ll tell you about our most recent first ascent - Sudden Valley! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Nadya Vorotnikova is on the pod today for an awesome talk about loving the process and breaking self limiting beliefs. Nadya grew up in Russia, moved to New Hampshire when she was 10, and now lives in Colorado - and she’s been climbing all along. This journey has exposed her to so many different mental approaches to training and climbing and has made her the absolute crusher that she is. 

Today, Nadya tells us what it was like to grow up a family of dedicated climbers (including her brother Vasya, also a well known climber), how a childhood  in Russia gave her a unique understanding of training, the importance of falling in love with the process instead of the outcome, her recent experience climbing her first 5.14 - Primeval, and how Nadya learned to move past her limiting beliefs to achieve new challenges. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

If you’re an ice climbing gearhead, then you’ve probably heard about the new picks by Beartooth Alpine Equipment. Cofounder Charlie Faust joins the pod today to tell us all about them. He’ll share how Beartooth Alpine came to be, how their picks differ from other brands on the market, the role gear advancement has played in changing the sport of ice climbing, and his personal pick sharpening tips. 

Plus, we’ll get philosophical in a talk about the light and dark motivations that lead people to climbing. 

Learn more about Beartooth Alpine Equipment here. 

Check out Mark Twight’s book Kiss or Kill. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

North Conway native and long time climber Chris Graham, or ‘Grammy’ as he’s affectionately known, is a familiar face on both sides of the mountains, both as a climber and as a guide. His climbing career goes so far back that he can boast that he climbed at Rumney before there were bolts! 

Today, Chris shares his experiences as a guide, gives his opinion on the longstanding bolt debate between North Conway and Rumney, tells us his philosophy on when to use bolts (and when to not), and shines a light on a bit of the history of the divide between the North Conway and Rumney climbing styles. 

Plus, Grammy answers your listener question! 

Would you like to hear a bonus episode with Nate? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Few people have done more for the development of climbing bolt technology than Dave Quinn. 

Dave is one of the original developers of Rumney, a core member of Team Tough, and an all around bolting expert. Today’s he’s returning to the podcast to share updates about The Team Tough Crossover Bolt, which just passed U.I.A.A. certification. 

In this episode, Dave walks us through the process of creating a new bolt product; from supply chains to certification requirements, and all the steps he’s had to traverse to bring this revolutionary glue-in bolt to the market. 

Check out the crossover bolt and all of Dave’s products at Team Tough Bolt Products: https://www.team-tough.com/

For more about Dave and his bolting expertise, check out our first episode on the podcast!  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Tom Bowker is the undeniable godfather of the climbing scene in Waterville Valley. Tom’s prolific number of first ascents over his 40 year climbing career make him one of the most well known names in the region. His first ascents include Peer Pressure, Journey to Lost World, and dozens more. 

Today, Tom shares awesome tales about how his routes came to be, why he still hand drills all of his bolts, why he thinks climbers are the most privileged users of public lands, and which first ascent he is more proud of than all of the others combined. 

Do you want more of this conversation? We continue our chat with Tom over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

It’s finally happening! Today’s conversation is all about bouldering. Boulderer extraordinaire Jake Perry is with us to answer all of your bouldering questions. We cover a wide range of bouldering topics, including grades, highballs, skin care, and the most important question: Why? 

Would you like to hear a bonus episode with Nate? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Last week we opened the floor to our Instagram followers - they hit us with all of the questions, comments, criticisms and praise that they wanted to throw our way. Today we’re digging through the comments and sharing our replies. Hear our thoughts on everything from cracked ribs, to peregrine falcons, to bouldering, to square roots and everything in between. 

Do you have a burning question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! 

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx

Would you like hours of bonus content to binge? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

The guys are getting worked up in today’s episode as they each share their five biggest crag annoyances. Life is all about balance, though! So you’ll also learn about their five favorite things at the crag. 

What is your biggest crag annoyance? Or your favorite thing? Let us know on Instagram at @firstascentpod! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Jay and Lee can be found at on Instagram at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Nate Liles, the Development Director of the American Safe Climbing Association, is here today for an in depth talk about bolt replacement. The ASCA has been doing incredible work replacing old bolts and hardware on routes throughout the country. Since their inception, the ASCA has supported the replacement of 70,000 bolts!

In this episode, we talk about how the ASCA came to be, the sketchiest bolts Nate has replaced, Nate’s opinions on bolt types and permanent draws, and the best ways to get involved in bolt replacement and stewardship if you’re not personally skilled in the art of replacement. 

To learn more about the ASCA or to make a donation, visit https://safeclimbing.org/

Nate Liles is also a videographer and photographer with his company Orographic Visual. Check out some of his fantastic climbing media on Instagram @orographic_visual 

Would you like to hear a bonus episode with Nate? Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

We are psyched to welcome philosopher, author and avid climber Francis Sanzaro to the pod! His book, The Zen of Climbing, is a must read for any climber seeking to develop a stronger mindset toward climbing. 

We’ll talk about the benefits of releasing attachments and expectations in climbing, the mental state that the most elite climbers inhabit when they send, and even why he hates the term ‘flow’. 

Check out all of Francis’s books here: http://www.fsanzaro.com/about.html

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Welcome back to Part Two of the First Ascent Superlative Awards! 

Be sure to check out Part One if you haven’t yet. 

It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today’s episode we’ll share our votes for the best of the best in New Hampshire climbing.

In today’s episode, we’ll share our votes for the following:

Best Pump Fest

Best Vision Quest

Best Move

Best Sandbag

Best Discovery

Best Featherbag

Best Runout 

Best Gear Placement

Best Summit 

Best Pitch

Best Cliff

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx

Disclaimer:

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Welcome to the First Ascent Superlative Awards! 

It’s time for us to pay our yearly homage to the incredible climbing that our great state of New Hampshire has to offer. With the tallest mountains and the best granite, NH is home to the epicenter of New England climbing, and in today’s episode we’ll share our votes for the best of the best in New Hampshire climbing. 

In today’s episode, we’ll share our votes for the following:

Best Boulder Problem 

Best Trad Pitch

Best Multi-Pitch Climb

Best Face Climb

Best Slab

Best Finger Crack 

Best Hand Crack 

Best Off-Width

Best Crack Climb

Be sure to come back next week to hear the 2nd half of our Superlative Awards! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

James Schroeder (aka Fudd) is back on the pod today to talk about his recent health journey with a severe heart arrhythmia. He’ll share how the health issue came to light, the surgical processes he went through to correct the issue, what the recovery process has been like for him, and how it has changed his perspective on life, fitness, and climbing. 

Plus, Fudd and Jay reminisce about an epic ice climb, and the unforgettable rock prank Fudd played on Jay.  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

The spring climbing season is just around the corner, and it has us thinking about all of the projects that we’re ready to work on this season. Mike Gagnon is back on the pod today to chat all about it. We’ll each share our approaches to projecting. We’ll tell stories of projects that we sent (and some that we didn’t). We’ll lay out how first ascent projects differ from projects on established routes. And finally, we’ll share the projects that each of us hope to tackle in this upcoming season and beyond. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Jay and Lee are here today to answer your latest batch of listener questions! You’ll get their thoughts on a wide range of questions, including the best Rumney sequences, tips for warm fingertips, soul climbing on projects, the role of gym climbing, and even who would be big spoon in an emergency bivvy situation. 

Plus, the ever-smoldering gates in vs. gates out fight continues. 

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

The Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest was last weekend and it’s one of our favorite events of the year. With a huge turnout and beautiful weather, it was an event that couldn’t be beat. We were on the scene with our mic to capture the spirit of the event. 

Enjoy this slice of life from Ice Fest! You might just hear yourself or your buddy on the pod. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today Jay and Lee pen a love letter to the crown jewel of New England sport climbing - Waimea! The flagship crag of Rumney offers a climbing experience like no other, and today the guys break down why it is both so loved and feared. They’ll share stories about their own histories on the crag, and reflect on how they’ve improved as climbers through their experiences on the Waimea routes. Plus, they’ll drop some beta and words of encouragement to get you ready for the next time you approach this fantastic crashing wave of a crag. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

In today’s episode, Jay and Lee share their picks for the best gear they’ve used in the last year. If you’re looking for (mostly) unbiased recs for new gear, this episode is for you! 

Plus, the guys share their most hated gear, as well. So you know you’re in for a treat. 

Check out the gear recommendations here: 

DMM Belay Master Carabiner: https://dmmwales.com/products/belay-master-2

Rab Capstone Pants: https://rab.equipment/us/capstone-pants

Edelrid Canary Pro Dry Rope: https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/ropes/canary-pro-dry-8-6mm?variant=557160

Petzl Ange Finesse Quickdraw: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-And-Quickdraws/ANGE-FINESSE

Black Diamond Camalot Z4 Offset: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/camalot-z4-offset/

Edelrid mega jul belay device https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/belay-devices/mega-jul

Black diamond crack gloves https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/crack-gloves/

Ocun crack gloves

https://www.ocun.com/product/crack-gloves

Scarpa Meistro 

https://www.backcountry.com/scarpa-maestro-mid-eco-climbing-shoe-mens-scr006k

Kong Panic Draw 

https://epictv.com/kong-panic

Misty Mountain Harnesses -Cadillac (trad/ice)

https://mistymountain.com/products/cadillac-quick-adjust-men-s

Misty Mountain Harnesses -Bolt- Sport)

https://mistymountain.com/products/bolt-harness

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Joe Kinder, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

High level climber Rollin Grimmett is with us today to talk about his recent send of the 5.14d climb, Life of Villians in Southern Utah. Rollin shares about how he tackled this send, and he walks us through the calculated training regimen he follows as an outdoor climber in order to push his grades. 

Rollin also has a great Instagram at @rrgrimmett, and in today’s episode he weighs in on last episode’s big question: how important is truthfulness in climbing? 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Happy New Year, First Ascent listeners! We’re back from our break and ready for 2024. Today we’re starting the year off with an episode all about New Year’s resolutions. We’re sharing ours, reading submissions from our listeners, and judging each resolution as we go. Plus, we discuss a hot topic: how important is it to be truthful about your climbing experiences? 

Links: 

Cold Fear Podcast. Ep #17 - Social Authenticity 

Race to the Summit on Netflix 

What are your new year’s resolutions? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

What are your new year’s resolutions? Let us know @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

It’s been an amazing year on the podcast! Incredible guests, fascinating conversations and more than a few bloopers have been had. In order to celebrate the end of the year, we’ve compiled a compilation of some of our favorite moments, plus a few of those bloopers. 

We’ll be taking our very first break over the holiday season, but be sure to tune back in in the new year for new episodes. In the meantime, join our Patreon community! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ice and mixed climber extraordinaire Pat Cooke is back on the pod to help us usher in a new season of ice climbing! Jay had the pleasure of joining Pat on a mixed climb of Fafnir on Cannon Cliff recently and today they’re here to talk all about the experience. 

The guys talk about how gear can make all the difference in an ice climb, the mantras and mental exercises they use in challenging moments, and the ephemeral nature of making plans for the winter season.

Plus! We finally get an ice climber to share his ice climbing goals! 

For a great intro to ice climbing, check out our first episode with Pat Cooke.  

Follow along with First Ascent on Instagram at  @firstascentpod. Jay and Lee can be found at 

@jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Our good buddy Jeremy Ballou is on the pod today! Jeremy is a long time friend of the pod who has never shied away from correcting us on our many mistakes. He is also the namesake of Jeremy’s Wall in Miriam Woods. 

Jeremy adds his candid hot takes to a new crop of listener questions, airs his grievances with the climbing world, and generally reminds us that we’re full of sh*t. 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Ice climbing season is just around the corner! Today, avid ice and mixed climber Brian O’Leary is on the pod to answer your ice, mixed and dry tooling questions. 

We’ll talk about the best ways to train for ice and mixed climbing, how the design of the tools you use will affect your performance, Brian’s thoughts on the need for more dry tooling routes, where to dry tool year round, and our thoughts on route grading. 

Brian is the co-founder of Forecast Climbing Equipment. Learn more about Forecast Climbing Equipment here! 

Check out Brian’s first episode on the pod here.  

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon. For $5, $7 or $10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay can be found at @jayknower. 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Today we’re joined by Vance White! Vance has put up over a hundred routes in the Lander area, is the author of “Lander Rock: Rock Climbs of Central Wyoming”, and is simply one of the nicest climbers in the land.  

Our chat with Vance today covers bolting philosophy, the importance of generational mentorship, music at the crag, developing routes with an inclusive mindset and more! 

Join us over on the First Ascent Patreon! For only $5 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Learn more about the Central New Hampshire Climbers Association here! https://www.centralnhclimbers.org/

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.

Thanksgiving is upon us, and we have so much to be grateful for in the climbing world. From our partners to our health, our gear, experiences and everything in between, we’re breaking down the things that mean the most to us in this incredible activity that we all share. 

One thing we’re so grateful for is our amazing First Ascent Patreon community! Join us! For only $5-$10 a month, you’ll get access to wide ranging bonus content from greats like Mark Hudon, Scott Stevenson and many more. Plus you’ll get a Discord chat, exclusive beta, route info, and more. Check it out here:  https://www.patreon.com/FirstAscentPodcast

Do you have a listener question or a topic idea? Let us know at @firstascentpod on Instagram!

Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx 

Disclaimer: 

The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.