Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast – Details, episodes & analysis

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Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast

Facet Nation

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Frequency: 1 episode/10d. Total Eps: 41

Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.

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41. Interview: Arya Akhavan returns! Growing Exotic and Novel Lab Sapphires

Season 2 · Episode 41

Monday, September 21, 2026 • Duration 58:10

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Arya Akhavan returns! To reveal the secrets he couldn't disclose last time.

Arya has been growing sapphires! And not just any sapphires, every colour of sapphire you can imagine.

A gemologist and scientist, Arya shares groundbreaking insights into synthetic gemstone production, including sapphire growth, colour manipulation, and future innovations. Discover how science and passion are transforming the gem industry and what it means for collectors, faceters and jewellers alike.

Get involved by joining 'The Gemstone Lab' kickstarter here:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/canadacrystallabs/the-gemstone-lab-growing-never-before-seen-lab-sapphires

Groundbreaking sapphire growth techniques
Chemical processes in gemstone creation
The role of computer modeling in gemmology
Market implications of synthetic versus natural gems
Innovations in gemstone colour and treatments
Challenges in sourcing synthetic materials
Future projects in gemstone research
The impact of technology on gem cutting and design

sound bites
"We want to do this scientifically, rigorously."
"Some synthetics are more rare than natural gems."
"Market perceptions have diverged completely."

Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Arya Akhavan and his work
02:54 Chemical processes in sapphire creation
06:18 Modeling and reverse engineering natural sapphires
08:34 Market trends and consumer preferences for synthetics
12:20 Industrial applications of synthetic gemstones
17:46 Market perception and the future of synthetic gems
22:37 Unique features of synthetic gemstones and market demand
28:43 Market diversification and consumer behavior
34:14 The evolution of synthetic gemstone marketing
43:56 Research and development in gemstone science
50:19 Current progress and future plans for gemstone synthesis
54:07 Closing thoughts and upcoming projects

synthetic gemstones, sapphire growth, gemmology, gemology, gemstone science, lab-grown gems, gemstone colour, gemstone innovation, gem industry, gemstone research, gem cutting, faceting, lapidary, kickstarter, coloured gemstones

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38. End of Season 1: Fashioning Part Two - Gemstone faceting techniques

Season 1 · Episode 38

Monday, June 1, 2026 • Duration 41:58

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This episode explores the intricate process of diamond manufacturing, from designing and marking to shaping, faceting, and polishing. Hosted by gemmologists Simon and Lucinda, it offers detailed insights into cutting techniques, tools, and the science behind creating stunning gemstones.

End of Season One. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING.

We will be back, enjoy your summer

key topics
Diamond designing and marking
Dividing and cleaving methods
Shaping and faceting techniques
Polishing and final finishing
Tools and equipment used in gem cutting

Mastering Diamond Cutting: From Rough to Brilliant
The Art and Science of Gemstone Faceting

sound bites
"Only diamond can cut a diamond"
"Lasers cut diamonds in twenty minutes"
"Start with the pavilion, then the crown"

Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Diamond Manufacturing
02:35 The Process of Cutting Diamonds
05:13 Dividing and Shaping Diamonds
08:03 Bruting and Faceting Diamonds
10:28 The Role of Technology in Diamond Cutting
13:26 Understanding Diamond Facets and Angles
15:46 Lapidary: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
18:48 Understanding Facet Diagrams
21:24 Dopping Techniques and Adhesives
24:49 The Faceting Process Begins
28:19 Grit Sequence and Polishing
32:31 Cutting the Crown Facets
36:58 Final Steps and Reflections
39:49 Looking Ahead: Future Plans and Wrap-Up

resources
Gemology Project - Facet Diagrams - https://gemologyproject.com
Ultratech Gem Faceting Machines - https://ultratec.com
Andrew Ian Brown's Gemstone Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Andrew+Ian+Brown+gemstone+designInstagram - https://instagram.com/gemmology_si

37. Gemstone Fashioning Part One: An Overview for Gemmology Study

Season 1 · Episode 37

Monday, May 25, 2026 • Duration 49:57

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In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemstone cutting and fashioning, covering essential terminology, techniques, and historical insights crucial for gemologists and enthusiasts alike.

key topics
Gemstone cutting terminology
Differences between lapidary and diamond manufacturing
Factors influencing gemstone cut decisions
Historical gem cutting techniques and innovations
Practical tips for evaluating rough stones

Gem Cutting Vocabulary
Diamond Manufacturing Process
Gemstone Cut Optimization

Review gemstone terminology regularly
Practice evaluating rough stones before cutting
Explore historical gem cutting techniques

Titles
Mastering Gemstone Cutting: Techniques, History, and Industry Insights
The Art and Science of Gem Cutting: A Comprehensive Guide

sound bites
"The old mine cut has a rich history."
"Inlays and carvings add artistic value."
"A break in gem cutting is coming soon."

Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Cutting Gemstones
03:01 The Importance of Understanding Gemstone Cuts
05:43 Insights from Gem Cutting Experts
08:26 The Process of Fashioning Gemstones
11:09 Types of Gemstone Fashioning
13:58 Evaluating Rough Gemstones
16:37 Key Factors in Gemstone Cutting
19:13 Understanding Diamond Manufacture
21:58 Historical Perspectives on Gem Cutting
24:42 Modern Trends in Gem Cutting
27:24 Conclusion and Future of Gem Cutting
29:12 Understanding Diamond Cuts and Their History
32:29 The Anatomy of a Diamond: Key Features
34:51 Exploring Brilliant Cut Stones
36:42 Step Cuts vs. Brilliant Cuts: A Comparison38:04 The Evolution of Rose Cuts and Mixed Cuts40:32 Fantasy Cuts: The Art of Gemstone Cutting41:35 Cabochons: The Gateway to Gem Cutting44:25 Beads, Cameos, and Intaglios: Decorative Techniques46:10 Carvings, Inlays, and Mosaics: Artistic ExpressionsThe V&A Museum Gem Collection - https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/gemsUK Facet Cutters Guild - https://ukfcg.org/ guest linksInstagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmologyEmail - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

36. Interview: Michelle Mai - Cutting and Designing Gemstones

Season 1 · Episode 36

Monday, May 18, 2026 • Duration 52:43

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Join Lucinda, Simon, and Michelle Mai as they explore the art and science of precision gem cutting. Discover techniques, tools, design principles, and the inspiring journey of a master gem cutter in this engaging episode.

Precision gem cutting techniques
Tools and machinery for faceting
Design principles for gemstones
Materials used in gem cutting
The journey of a gem cutter

Guest name
Michelle Mai

Titles
Mastering Precision Gem Cutting: Techniques and Inspiration
The Art and Science of Gem Faceting with Michelle Mai

sound bites
"Equipment is a huge barrier to entry"
"Polishing quartz is challenging for me"
"Start with cabochons to learn the basics"

Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Precision Gem Cutting
08:09 Michelle's Journey into Gem Cutting
10:53 Understanding Gem Cutting Machinery
13:09 The Learning Curve in Gem Cutting
15:57 Design Principles in Gem Cutting
18:57 Challenges with Different Gem Materials
21:36 Creating Unique Gem Designs
24:36 The Role of Light in Gem Performance
27:00 Inspiration Behind Michelle's Designs
29:59 Favorite Designs and Techniques
32:31 Conclusion and Future Aspirations
35:41 Exploring Favourite Materials in Gem Cutting
37:53 Natural vs. Synthetic Gemstones: A Balanced Perspective
39:48 Navigating Risk and Responsibility in Gem Cutting
44:08 Advice for Aspiring Gem Cutters
51:04 Encouragement for Beginners in Lapidary Arts

resources
Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume One by Tom Herbst - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4V7V4X
UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://www.ukfcg.org/
Gem Cut Studio - https://gemcutstudio.com/Reddit r/shinypreciousgems - https://www.reddit.com/r/shinypreciousgems/ guest linksReddit - https://www.reddit.com/user/MichelleMaiInstagram - https://www.instagram.com/michellemai/

35. Tourmaline Part II: The King of Tourmaline...?

Season 1 · Episode 35

Monday, May 11, 2026 • Duration 40:07

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In this episode of FacetNation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, particularly focusing on its significance in San Diego's gemstone history and the impact of the Dowager Empress Cixi on the pink tourmaline market. They explore the rise and fall of the tourmaline industry, the unique characteristics of the stone, and the methods used to identify it. The conversation is rich with historical anecdotes and insights into the gemmology field, making it an engaging listen for enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Also in this episode, Lucinda and Simon delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, exploring its color variations, treatments, and the rise of Paraiba tourmaline as a highly sought-after gemstone. They discuss the geological origins of Paraiba tourmaline, its global appeal, and highlight famous examples, including the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba. The episode concludes with a look at the stunning Liddicoat tourmaline slice, showcasing the beauty and complexity of this remarkable gemstone.

Tourmaline is a significant gemstone with various types.
San Diego has a rich history of gemstone mining.
The Dowager Empress Cixi played a crucial role in popularising pink tourmaline.
Zixi's love for pink tourmaline influenced the gemstone market.
The decline of the tourmaline market followed Cixi's death.
Testing tourmaline requires specific techniques due to its colour variations.
Tourmaline can be mistaken for other gemstones.
Historical context enhances the value of gemstones.
Gemstones often have fascinating stories behind them.
Understanding gemstone history can enrich appreciation for them. Some stones show two completely different colours.
Watermelon tourmalines need both pleochroic responses listed.
Tourmaline can be treated to enhance colour.
Paraiba tourmaline is the most valuable type.
The discovery of Paraiba tourmaline changed the market.
Paraiba tourmaline's price skyrocketed due to rarity.
Geological events created the conditions for tourmaline formation.
Nigerian and Mozambican tourmalines are similar to Brazilian Paraiba.Famous tourmalines often have historical significance.The Liddicoat tourmaline slice is a stunning example of tourmaline beauty.The Allure of Tourmaline: A Gemstone JourneyUnveiling San Diego's Gemstone SecretsThe Legacy of the Dowager Empress CixiTourmaline: From Mine to Market"She banned foot binding.""It's a serious bottleneck.""It's called Heitorita.""It looks like stained glass."Chapters00:00 Introduction to Tourmaline Part Two02:30 Exploring San Diego's Gemstone History05:57 The Dowager Empress Cixi and Pink Tourmaline17:20 The Decline of the Tourmaline Market18:22 Testing Tourmaline: Identification Techniques22:01 Understanding Tourmaline's Colour Variations25:01 The Treatment and Enhancement of Tourmaline26:17 The Discovery of Paraiba Tourmaline30:39 The Rise of Paraiba Tourmaline's Value34:00 Geological Origins of Paraiba Tourmaline38:25 The Global Appeal of Paraiba Tourmaline39:05 Famous Paraiba Tourmalines and Their Significance42:30 The Liddicoat Tourmaline Slice and Its Beauty

34. Gemstone Colour: Charge Transfer and Colour Centres

Season 1 · Episode 34

Monday, May 4, 2026 • Duration 38:19

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Explore the fascinating science of gemstone colour, focusing on charge transfer mechanisms, the role of ions, and how treatments like heat affect gemstone hues. Perfect for gemmology enthusiasts and professionals alike.

key topics

Charge transfer in gemstones

Colour centres and defects

Effects of heat treatment on gemstone colour

Titles

The Science Behind Gemstone Colours: Charge Transfer Explained

Unlocking the Secrets of Sapphire and Diamond Colours

sound bites

"Blue sapphire's colour is a football match of ions."

"Charge transfer mechanisms reveal gemstone secrets."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology

02:53 Understanding Charge Transfer in Gemstones

05:35 Oxygen to Metal Charge Transfer

08:28 Metal to Metal Charge Transfer: The Sapphire Story

10:58 Organic Molecular Electron Transition

16:22 Colour Centres in Diamonds

22:39 The Science of Synthetic Diamonds

25:27 Understanding Green Diamonds

27:44 The Mystery of Pink Diamonds

33. Tourmaline Part One: Conquistadors and the party where everyone's invited

Season 1 · Episode 33

Monday, April 27, 2026 • Duration 42:19

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Join us as we explore the fascinating world of tourmaline, its formation, varieties, and historical significance, with insights from gemmologists Lucinda and Simon.

Tourmaline's chemical complexity and isomorphous series
Formation of tourmaline in pegmatites and metamorphic rocks
Varieties of tourmaline and their unique features
Historical lore and the myth of pyroelectricity
Testing and identifying tourmaline in gemmology

Simon and Lucinda

Titles
The Hidden World of Tourmaline: From Conquistadors to Colourful Crystals
Unlocking the Secrets of Tourmaline: Varieties, Formation, and Lore

sound bites
"Paraiba tourmalines glow like neon blue."
"Rubellite is the most popular tourmaline."
"Rubellite is a deep, moody red."

Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Facet nation and Personal Updates
04:26 Shout Outs and Community Engagement
08:38 Exploring Tourmaline: A Gemstone Overview
12:59 The Chemistry and Characteristics of Tourmaline
17:28 Historical Significance and Unique Properties of Tourmaline
20:26 The Science Behind Tourmaline
24:17 Formation of Tourmaline
29:24 Varieties of Tourmaline
36:40 Favourite Tourmalines and Their Unique Qualities

Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

tourmaline, gemstones, gemmology, mineral formation, jewellery, gem varieties, gemstone history, gem testing, gem inclusions

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32. Causes of Gemstone Colour: Dispersed Metal Ions

Season 1 · Episode 32

Monday, April 20, 2026 • Duration 28:09

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This episode explores the science behind gemstone colours, focusing on dispersed metal ions, valency states, atomic environments, and their effects on colour and luminescence. Hosted by Lucinda and Simon, it combines scientific insights with personal reflections and industry tips.

Dispersed metal ions and their role in gemstone colour
Valency states of transition metals and their effects
Atomic environment and its influence on gemstone hue
Luminescence and fluorescence in gemstones
Energy transfer and electron excitation in gemology

Energy transfer in electrons
Valency and atomic environment influence on colour
Colour change effect in gemstones

Review the valency states of transition metals in your gemstone collection
Use a spectroscope to observe absorption bands and fluorescence
Experiment with heating and irradiation to alter gemstone colors

The Science of Gemstone Color: Dispersed Metal Ions and Atomic Environments
Unlocking Gem Colors: Valency, Atomic Environment, and Light

"Light as packets of energy excite electrons."
"Atomic arrangement affects gemstone colour."
"Chromium electrons jump, causing fluorescence."

Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
02:50 Philosophical Reflections on Energy and Colour
05:31 Understanding Ions and Their Role in Colour
08:03 The Impact of Valency State on Gemstone Colour
10:47 Atomic Environment and Colour Variations
13:30 The Role of Chromium in Colour Change
16:16 Luminescence and Its Connection to Colour
18:56 Fluorescence and Crystal Defects
21:25 Conclusion and Future Topics

resources

Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.comSpectroscope and Light Source Information - https://www.gemologyonline.comSimon and Lucinda's Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology/

Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast – Details, episodes & analysis

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Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast – Details, episodes & analysis

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