In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob sits down with Surf Coach Dan Mori to discuss the best methods and common mistakes with surf progression. Rob and Dan talk boards, waves, where to ride, how to catch waves, and more. Connect with Dan dan@fulcrumsurf.com.

In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob explains how social media and surf forecasting are similar, recent developments in the world of predicting surf, and what you should be mindful of when reading surf forecasts.

In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob examines an old myth – can an incoming tide increase the power of the waves coming in? He explains why tides are different geographically, why they change from day to day, why there are Supermoons and other facts about tides. Finally, he sums up how the understanding of tides help surfers, and whether or not an incoming tide increases the power of waves.

Rob said he's heard a lot of misinformation on the use of the “S-Stroke” for paddling so in this riveting episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, he dives into the history and recent research behind the S-Stroke, and wraps it up with how this information and data might be used to help your surfing. Hope you enjoy!

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

Rob breaks down a detailed CSU San Marcos study which characterized upper extremity muscle activation generated by surfers while paddling. The study describes which muscle groups are firing, and their duration, magnitude and timing of activation throughout the stroke at different speeds. The team at CSUSM also measured oxygen consumption, paddling cadence, and surfboard motion. The results of the study provide further evidence towards what efficient and effective paddling is, which muscles to train for different paddling speeds, the intensities at which to train for each scenario, and provides a stepping stone for similar research in the future. Come nerd out with Rob and learn if you are activating the correct muscles at the correct time during your paddling!

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

Rob goes deep into a scientific principle around how fluids behave to teach you several aspects in surfing, from surf forecasting to paddling technique to riding the wave. This one principle impacts the entire life-cycle of a wave, is incorporated in our interaction with the waves as we read them and ride them, and is present in our experience even before we hit the water.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

Rob sits down with Barry Green, Surf Coach at Centered Surfing, and they discuss methods to acquire skills for surfing and the various benefits and limitations of each. They cover their co-coaching trip to Lakeside Surf, trips to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, Boat Surfing, Surf Skating, and other methods.

In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob shares the amount of force a surfer is applying when taking a stroke. Does a surfer really need to “paddle hard”? Additional metrics are shared and discussed as well as what makes a paddling stroke effective versus ineffective.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

This Dropping In Surf Show episode extrapolates information from a Scripps Institute of Oceanography Report on what makes a good wave for surfing. Throughout the discussion, Rob outlines key items from his Level 2 course that help surfers read waves, find ideal takeoff spots, and catch waves with ease. This is the information that experienced surfers use but don’t know why, and how you can save years of struggle.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

In this special Dropping In Surf Show episode, Rob investigates and analyzes takeoff video of five different surfers, which provides unique observations because he is able to see the underwater angle of attack as well as the above water sequence of the surfers getting to their feet. He finds some consistency between the surfboards and is able to see some similarities between the shortboard surfers vs the longboard surfers. This analysis yields several questions regarding effortless takeoffs, and begins a thought-provoking exercise towards better understanding the physics behind what is ideal.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This Dropping In Surf Show episode features guest Matt Warshaw, surfing’s masterful historian and creator of the Encyclopedia of Surfing. Matt and Rob discuss the role of science in the history of surfing, currently, and future speculations. They also dive into how science in surfing could work within surf culture, business, and sport.

Support the Encyclopedia of Surfing: https://eos.surf/subscribe/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

Today’s episode of the Dropping In Surf Show features Dr. Jeff Nessler and Dr. Sean Newcomer from California State University, San Marcos. Jeff and Sean have been conducting surf studies for several years ranging from paddling to thermoregulatory impacts wetsuits have. Rob welcomed back Zouhair, a board builder, to discuss board design, wetsuit studies, and other surf research with Jeff and Sean. Hope you enjoy, and GO SCIENCE! To support the show, visit the show sponsor: SurfingPaddling.com Watch the video version of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In this month’s Episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob is excited to share new research on how to paddle faster. The research study looks at the correlation (or lack of correlation) between several variables having to do with swim speed (and hence paddling speed). The age old question – hand speed vs hand force is investigated, as well as other factors leading to faster swimming (and paddling). Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob sits down with Zouhair Belkoura, boardmaker and thought provoker. Zouhair proposed a question to Rob – what paddles better – a board with more length, or one with more volume? So they embarked on a paddling experiment to find out. Check out the full write up at https://www.zboatsurfboards.com/post/what-paddles-better-length-or-volume

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

Today’s episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob sits down with Jay Haldeman, creator of the SurfinShape board. Jay has not only created a valuable asset for surfers to improve the surfing experience but also has a unique and relatable story. Rob and Jay discuss falling in love with surfing, losing it, finding it again, the origin of the SurfinShape Board, the ups and downs of the design process, focus on quality, and the future.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob has a conversation with Amber Puha, Department Chair of Mathematics at California State University San Marcos. Not only is Amber a wiz at Mathematics, and an incredible teacher, but she is an extremely accomplished free surfer and competition surfer. Rob and Amber discuss mentoring and teaching the next generation, breaking through glass ceilings, why she opted to pass on pro surfing, surfing as a great life lesson, and following your passion.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob has a conversation with Fred Haywood. We discuss growing up on Maui, being teammates with Mark Spitz, swim technique changes that let to becoming a swimming record holder, starting an iconic surf/windsurf shop, breaking wind speed records, surfing with Gerry Lopez at G-Land, and more incredible stories. Fred is a shining light of inspiration, and he shares words of wisdom on how to live life to the fullest.

To order Fred’s book, Racing with Aloha, check out https://racingwithaloha.com/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob sits down with PhD in Biomechanics, Dario Matoso, in this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show. Rob and Dario discuss how the body moves in surfing, how to use the surf skate to train the proper movement, secrets to body weight vs pressure, and more nuggets of information to help surfers improve their surfing. Check out Dario’s website and get help from him (through his online course or in-person) at https://dariomatoso.com/

 Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

A special episode of the Dropping In Surf Show this month. Guest Barry Green, Centered Surfing, and Rob conducted a strike mission to Lake Chelan, WA to visit Lakeside Surf. Lakeside surf is an artificial standing wave using the City Wave technology, and is apparently the largest of it’s kind. In this episode, broken into three sections, Barry and Rob discuss our experience, walking in having never surfed a standing wave before to having four to five sessions on this wave. They talk about the journey of learning and how it can benefit you in general, our expectations and emotions throughout the time spent there, and how this wave might help you with your surfing technique. Section 1 is recorded immediately after Rob’s first two sessions and after Barry’s first. Section 2 is recorded after Rob’s 3rd and 4th session and Barry’s 2nd and 3rd. Finally, Section 3, has Rob and Barry watching their final session, commenting on what is seen on the screen as well as how they felt transitioning back into the ocean. Each section is roughly 15 minutes in length. Enjoy! Check out Lakeside Surf at https://www.lakesidesurf.com/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This week’s episode of the Dropping In Surf Show features guest Cris Mills, the Surf Strength Coach. Cris and Rob discuss preventing injury, how a surfer can increase strength and mobility, common hurdles surfers run into when conditioning themselves, the mobility vs strength debate, Cris’s coaching boat trips and travel, the Olympics, surfboard volume, reading waves, and proprioception training for surfing. There are some gems of information here to help surfers of all levels improve their fitness and ultimately their surfing. Learn more about Cris’s programs at https://surfstrengthcoach.com/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This week’s episode of the Dropping In Surf Show features guest co-host Harry Knight from Surf Simply. Harry and Rob discuss a research study conducted by Nick Pizzo (of Scripps Institute of Oceanography) named “Surfing Surface Gravity Waves”. They do their best to explain some of the science behind the study, but more so how the results can assist surfers progress in their ability to catch more waves and surf them better. Topics revolve around the wave’s sweet spot, paddling into waves, methods to generate speed on the wave, the speed at which our brains process information, how a surfer can use this information to help them, and more. Learn more about Surf Simply at https://surfsimply.com/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This Dropping In Surf Show episode reflects upon a day at the Kelly Slater Surf Ranch in Lemoore, CA.  There’s a lot that goes on when you have an experience at the Surf Ranch, a range of emotions and thoughts, and I thought it would be cool to document that to help other surfers seeking to surf this pool, any other wave pool, or even help surfers with their general surfs in more perfect waves.  We discuss emotions, flow of the day, and what a surfer can transfer to the ocean.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This episode of the Dropping In Surf Show features Mark Buetzow, veteran ship designer, sailor and water-skier.  Rob and Mark discuss various hydrodynamic designs, different types of drag, forms of propulsion, and design spirals.  Mark had a knack for understanding surfing, despite never surfing in his life - it’s fascinating to hear what a natural he is.  Must be something to hydrodynamics!

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In today’s Episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob breaks down the respiratory pump, explains what respiratory muscle training (RMT) is, outlines some studies showing the impact RMT has on performance, and how this training could relate to surfing (i.e. should you use it?).

This Dropping In Surf Show episode features Coach Chris from The Surf Continuum.  Rob and Chris discuss how Chris and Evan got started with the Kookcast Podcast and with The Surf Continuum, their coaching philosophy, the passion for education and learning, the reality behind learning to surf, basic skills all surfers need but aren’t sexy, how to develop the foundation for advanced flow, the power of conducting drills and repetition, the trickle effect on improving the basics, and the importance of travel for surfers’ development. 

To learn more about Coach Chris and Coach Evan visit https://www.thesurfcontinuum.com.  Look for the Kookcast podcast where you listen to your favorite podcasts. 

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Dropping In Surf Show, featuring Nick Franco, creator of Shearwater Paddleboards and Surfboards.  Nick is a surfer, competitive paddler, father, surfboard shaper, and prone paddleboard shaper.  Jim and Rob sit down with Nick to talk bottom contours, styles of boards to ride in various conditions, how he got started shaping and why, paddleboard prototype testing stories, distance racing psychology, controlling the mind when suffering in a race, placing as the top American in one of the hardest races in the world, paddleboarding over sharks and whales, balancing being a dad with work and play, personalized approach to working with surfers/paddlers, manufacturing process, and more.  Jim and Nick go way back, growing up as groms together so it’s fun to watch them banter back and forth like brothers.  Sit back and enjoy!

For more on Nick and his surfboards, visit https://www.shearwaterpaddleboards.com/ 

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This is a special episode of the Dropping In Surf Show featuring Rob’s wife Laurie, a non-surfing spouse, and her hilarious view of living with an obsessed surfer.  Laurie answers questions posed from listeners about her non-surfer perspective of surfing, how best to balance a surfer/non-surfer relationship, how she grew to respect surfers, and funny stories about her own experiences. 

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This episode features 1965 World Surfing Champion, Longevity expert, and Activist Felipe Pomar.  Rob, Jim and Felipe discuss longevity, motivation, becoming a champion, banishing the aging myth, and more.  Sit back and enjoy Felipe’s stories!

To learn more about Felipe Pomar’s Surf Till 100 program and trips visit https://home.surftill100.com/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This episode features Physiotherapist Scott Johnstone, practicing in Gold Coast, Australia.  Rob, Jim and Scott discuss common injury patterns, sustainable plans for body maintenance and recovery, rehab vs performance training, the importance of objective measurement, motor patterning, body characteristics, training for high torque turns, and preparation for surfing big waves.

Learn more about Scott at https://sapienrehabandperformance.com.au/ 

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Featuring Surf Coach Dan Mori, former WQS surfer and Owner of Fulcrum Surf in Del Mar, California.  Rob, Jim and Dan discuss the most important aspect of the surfboard you choose, riding and coaching at Kelly’s wave, what makes a board a magic board, technical aspects of maneuvers, how to react to falling, and more.  To learn more about Dan Mori’s Fulcrum Surf Coaching visit https://fulcrumsurf.com/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In this episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob and Jim sit down with Barry Green, Surf Coach and Life Coach located in Santa Cruz, CA.  Barry has a unique approach to surf coaching and a rare ability to pull out the best not only in your surfing, but in yourself in general.  We dive into topics such as responding to stimuli with grace, surfing as a practice, strategies for crowds, stress management, and more. 

Learn more about Barry at https://centeredsurfing.com/ 

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim continue the conversation with surf coach and amazing human being Clayton Nienaber.  They discuss common mistakes and solutions, learning from cavemen, the trick to surfing more relaxed, fast twitch vs slow twitch muscles, importance of timing vs force, should you slow down or speed up, the unimportance of fins, ocean knowledge vs equipment, matching the style of surfing to the type of rail on the board, board buying recommendations, the type of feedback to give to your shaper that will help you, DIPI, social fear limiting performance, waves of progression, growth vs fixed mindset, onshore days, finless surfing, board design in relation to progression, board dimensions’ impact on turning, and proper relationships between shaper and surfer.

To learn more about Clayton’s OMBE Surf Online Program, go here.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This week on the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob and Jim have a conversation with surf coach, surfboard shaper, and former QS surfer Clayton Nienaber.  They talk about magical secrets to Kelly Slater’s surfing, shaping surfboards to help clients improve, board design vs skill acquisition, how to surf on rail, the moment Clayton figured out how to surf effortlessly, how to “feel” more when surfing, lessons from Dane Reynolds, Kelly Slater and Taylor Knox secret conversations about surf technique, biomechanical movement translation to common terms that help, tapping into the wave’s energy, turning using centrifugal force, thoughts on riding single fins and twin fins, focus on moving the body well, and surfing illusions.  To learn more about Clayton’s OMBE Surf Online Program, go here.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim debate the possible causes of Mick’s ACL Injury, analyze the physics behind a layback turn, and share the passion behind a new board obsession on this week's Dropping In Surf Show.

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In today’s Episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob is honored to interview Rob Sleamaker, author, coach, and creator of the Vasa Trainer. They discuss the origins of the Vasa Trainer, how it can be used for both training and technique, overcoming challenges, and the use of the Vasa Trainer in swim and surf science research.

This week on the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob and Jim discuss the brain’s processing speed and how it impacts surf performance, talk about locals vibing surfers, and share simple exercises all surfers can use to improve the brain’s motor movements. 

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Joining Rob and Jim this week is Dr. Steven Duhig, Lecturer, Researcher and Head Strength and Conditioning Coach at Griffith University, and Pere Campistol, creator of The Surf Pentagon, a program designed to help surfers become better surfers.  They discuss paddling research studies, ways surfers can improve their overall surf ability, the future of surf research, the Olympics, and more.

Visit Griffith University and https://www.thesurfpentagon.com/ to learn more.  

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Joining Rob and Jim this week is Doctor of Physical Therapy Mark Kozuki, who runs his practice, PT Elite Performance, out of Costa Mesa, CA.  Mark had worked with John John Florence since he was on the WQS through his two championships, in addition to many of the top surfers on the WCT such as Tyler Wright, Felipe Toledo, Owen Wright, Courtney Conlogue, Lakey Peterson and more while being involved with the WSL and on staff with Hurley.  Rob, Jim and Mark discuss what it’s like working with top athletes, share how to find happiness, get salty about injuries and surgeries, share lessons learned from mistakes made, dive deep into the body-mind connection, and recollect how many waves Jim and Mark caught during Physical Therapy school. 

Visit Mark at http://www.pteliteperformance.com/

Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim are back where they analyze what happens when you get pitched, how to identify when you are likely to get pitched, reminisce on boat surfing fun and how waves break, share surf trip stories, explain the benefits of making mistakes, and somehow get on the topic of what terrible parents they probably are.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim venture into the topic of fear and anxiety (and attempt to understand it), share stories of their own deficiencies and insecurities, lessons learned from embarrassing moments and surprisingly, resist relating everything back to baseball for once.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim share their biking/surf adventure, the (non) science behind the pop up, variations on the pop up technique, hacking the brain for better performance, baseball (again, really?!?), and “tough” hypothetical decisions between style and technique.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim talk about foot supination and how it impacts surfing stance, impart the science behind torque and turns, give some examples of how some surfers use torque, dialog about the problem of using too much science in surf coaching, explain the flaws in the low back pain vs core strength debate, converse about neuroplasticity of the brain and age, and share the best advice they received when they were starting out.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim discuss what happens when we “crack” our bones; debate whether surfing is an addiction; learn about the science behind how kicking increases our velocity while swimming vs paddling; swimming eels, pitching machines, and freediving fins – what they all have in common; shortboard vs longboard vs proneboard kicking technique and impact; how to find the sweet spot on the board for paddling and for surfing, and share what kinds of alternative activities they do when they can’t surf.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim share ways to motivate people, explain why scientific studies are flawed and important at the same time, share some cool adaptations of the body (why were they talking so much about baseball?), talk about the current journey of surf research, normal distribution curves, and fun book recommendations. 

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim converse how fast a surfer loses fitness and how long it takes to get it back, Rob shares his foot recovery journey, they talk about whether strength or mobility should take precedence, spread the word on “funning" out instead of “working” out, and profess what their favorite surf film on VHS was growing up and how they influenced us. 

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In today’s Episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob investigates two Scripps Institute of Oceanography research reports that were conducted at the Kelly Slater Surf Ranch. Diving deeper into the data collected and the results, Rob links how this information can help surfers’ duck dive technique, getting out strategy, decision making and riding area on a wave. Sometimes the by-product of a study can reveal breakthrough knowledge.

The last episode was so long it had to be broken up into two!  In this Part 2, Rob and Jim work through the physics behind what happens when we catch a wave, how to paddle in with incredible simplicity and ease, talk about the benefits of going back to the basics of wave riding, and share early moments from their surfing lives, some that made us almost stop surfing altogether to moments of absolute joy and happiness.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

This episode was so long it had to be broken up into two!  In this Part 1, Rob and Jim wonder how messed up surfing is on our body, debate the science behind what is “right” and “wrong” movement, investigate what sort of fitness philosophy a surfer might follow to prevent injury, teach some pattern recognition in pain identification, and bust up any confidence you had in any medical diagnosis you’ve ever had!

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim discuss the science behind power and acceleration in paddling, exercises to improve this skill, possible future academic surfing research studies, mistakes made with paddling propulsion, and memorable moments on surf trips.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

Rob and Jim discuss how fast we need to go to catch a wave, speeds at which surfers paddle in flatwater, how to train for paddling, and embarrassing moments.

Watch the video at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show