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EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain
mardi 27 août 2024 • Durée 02:00:08
Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.
(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain
(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy
(01:10:23) – Pain is protective
(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset
(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right
(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy
(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences
(01:29:26) – Another client success story
(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle
(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket
(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts
(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog
(01:54:42) – Wrap up
EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board
lundi 19 août 2024 • Durée 01:02:37
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.
EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
lundi 24 juin 2024 • Durée 02:36:12
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
jeudi 2 février 2023 • Durée 40:24
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!
The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
lundi 30 janvier 2023 • Durée 54:50
Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.
Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
lundi 23 janvier 2023 • Durée 03:39:28
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
jeudi 19 janvier 2023 • Durée 44:05
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
lundi 16 janvier 2023 • Durée 01:01:27
Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to.
Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu
Announcing Fundamentals!
lundi 16 janvier 2023 • Durée 05:05
Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon!
(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate
(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique
(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:11:44) – Structuring practice
(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture
(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment
(01:21:00) – Three questions
(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling
(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique
(01:35:47) – Sending things faster
(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats
(01:50:43) – Board climbers
(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing
(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’
(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal
(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing
(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets
(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu
(00:04:22) – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017
(00:11:12) – Top out views
(00:12:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads
(00:16:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible
(00:20:21) – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training
(00:22:51) – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)
(00:24:56) – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)
(00:25:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)
(00:30:01) – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders
(00:32:41) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)
(00:35:01) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff
(00:36:28) – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try
(00:36:49) – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)
(00:39:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1
(00:40:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)
(00:41:46) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing
(00:42:59) – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)
(00:44:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have
(00:46:45) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect
(00:48:02) – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade
(00:48:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety
(00:52:40) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics
(00:53:23) – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu
(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery
(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery
(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury
(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta
(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression
(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”
(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!
(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients
(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients
(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers
(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action
(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training
(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts
(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower
(01:21:00) – Limbic friction
(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”
(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing
(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers
(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home
(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?
(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do
(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day
(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement
(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery
(02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body
(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low
(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus
(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period
(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar
(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength
(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….
(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing
(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer
(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter
(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life
(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie
(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance
(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”
(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering
(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”
(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)
(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP
(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing
(00:02:53) – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA
(00:06:28) – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips
(00:09:11) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early
(00:12:11) – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day
(00:13:58) – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips
(00:17:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open
(00:21:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things
(00:23:47) – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are
(00:24:10) – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff
(00:25:51) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing
(00:27:24) – Try to avoid survival mode
(00:29:09) – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends
(00:31:28) – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list)
(00:34:12) – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip
(00:37:34) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good
(00:39:11) – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area
(00:41:55) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested)
(00:45:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb
(00:46:07) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much
(00:47:21) – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing
(00:49:01) – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward
(00:52:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin
(00:54:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right
(00:57:52) – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip
(00:58:57) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip
(00:59:37) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open
(01:00:31) – Wrap up
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