Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.
Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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#102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!
Thursday, August 8, 2024 • Duration 01:29:58
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".
This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.
We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:
What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season
How to carry a project over from one season to the next
The secret to being a successful route climber
Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training
The science of building route fitness
Why many climbers are training endurance wrong
So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
#101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine
Tuesday, July 9, 2024 • Duration 01:04:14
Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals.
One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast.
My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance.
The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being.
RUNDOWN
00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement
00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance
1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance
4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com
#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
Monday, October 2, 2023 • Duration 38:25
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.
I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more!
3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC.
DAY 1 (abridged)
7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl
7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers.
9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA)
10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers
11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom.
13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps?
15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers
17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders)
DAY 2 (abridged)
18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline
22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction
23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts
#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
Monday, September 11, 2023 • Duration 58:28
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year.
This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end!
Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!
Tuesday, August 22, 2023 • Duration 24:57
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending.
With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November.
Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND!
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Welcome message.
00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season!
2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins.
4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing there? What's your "super bowl"...that is, the most important project boulder or route?
8:42 - #2: Spend less time strength training and more time climbing! Over the coming weeks, taper off climbing-specific strength exercises and put down the heavy free weights until your next off-season.
12:25 - #3: Consider your body composition--is it currently optimal for climbing your best on steep boulders and long, overhanging routes? If not, what calorie-dense junk/pleasure foods can you reduce or eliminate until after send season is over? Consider running a few days per week to increase caloric expenditure and spin-up cardiovascular fitness (especially helpful for route climbers).
#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip
Monday, July 10, 2023 • Duration 32:21
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well.
In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day.
In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors you should consider in determining how often you should take a rest day from climbing. The optimal climbing-to-rest-day ratio can differ greatly depending on your climbing goals, training history, age, and recovery ability, among other things.
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Welcome message.
1:30 - The value of climbing roadtrips
2:36 - Intro to optimizing your climbing day to rest day ratio while on a roadtrip.
The 4 primary factors that come into play in getting it right.
6:12 - Factor #1: The length of your climbing trip.
13:28 - Factor #2: The type of climbing you're engaging in.
#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each)
Tuesday, June 6, 2023 • Duration 29:30
The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!
Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies.
However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each.
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode
1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing)
2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!
4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events.
10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types.
>> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >>
12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering.
16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing.
#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?)
Tuesday, May 9, 2023 • Duration 33:22
Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode.
The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c.
The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst.
Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to jump on the intimidating, overhanging pumpfest known as Kaleidoscope, a route I've gawked at many times but never seriously considered working on.
I'll share with you my process of working this route and how the redpoint "just happened" one day. You'll learn many mental, technical, and tactical tips that you can adopt or modify to improve your climbing performance!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Greetings
0:50 - Intro to "surprise send" episode -- a sport climbing performance case study.
2:40 - The backstory...
4:35 - Leveraging my current assets as a veteran climber. What I've got going for me!
6:22 - The importance of recovery--my sleep and nutrition habits.
7:30 - My current knuckle pain...and "climbing around it".
8:10 - Stalling out on last season's project climb...
9:35 - Being "fit" but not "strong".
9:50 - Entering the Kaleidoscope!
13:25 - The process, in detail.
15:25 - Details of the crux beta. (SKIP if you're planning an onsight attempt on the climb!)
17:20 - Summary of Day 1 on Kaleidoscope
18:20 - Details of my day 2 and day 3 work on the project...
#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin
Monday, April 10, 2023 • Duration 01:18:25
What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end.
In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first wrote a training program about 3 years ago. Since then, Ryan's become a solid 5.12a/b climber with redpoints up to 5.12d. But taking it to the next level will require a modified and comprehensive program...which is the focus of our discussion.
Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-paced episode gives a scientific basis for helping you determine if doing some running could enhance your climbing performance.
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Welcome
1:00 - Introduction to "running for climbing".
2:20 - The problem with training sound bites and memes...
4:32 - 4 ways that running (or other generalized cardiovascular conditioning, such as swimming, rowing, biking, etc.) can support a higher level of climbing performance
5:08 - #1. Research has shown that more cardiovascular fit climbers recover faster. This means greater recovery on marginal mid-route rests and faster recovery between boulders, routes, and exercises.
8:02- How your resting heart rate can be used as a measure of your cardiovascular fitness.
9:42 - #2. Greater generalized aerobic conditioning will improve stamina for long days of bouldering, climbing, training, and performing at elevation.
11:10 - #3. Regular generalized conditioning can help improve your body composition and increase your strength-to-weight ratio.
13:02 - #4: Running or other cardio has been shown to improve mental state, mood, and energy.
14:24 - Recap: 8 take-home points about running (and other cardio exercises) for climbing.
Running will not improve your climbing technique/skill.
Running will accelerate your recovery at mid-climb rests and between exercises and climbs.
Running will increase stamina for long days of bouldering, training, and climbing.
Running can help optimize your body composition, thus increasing your strength-to-weight ratio.
5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham
5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0”
9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers"
11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average”
14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc.
16:40 – “Treat the patient, don’t treat the numbers!”
22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com
23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB
31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.)
35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep.
37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine
40:00 – The journey toward optimization.
47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat.
49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels
53:00 – Hormone changes in women
55:00 – A brief mention of peptides
57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week.
1:01:00 – Final thoughts
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers
27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse
DAY 3 (abridged)
30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. Get it here >>
31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance
32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness
32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. Listen to Episode #22 first >>
33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance.
36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
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