Female Guides Requested – Détails, épisodes et analyse

Show Notes:

Emma’s Links:

• Emma’s website:  https://www.emmarwalker.com/
• Emma’s book:   https://www.falconguides.com/9781493052783/dead-reckoning/
• AIARE website:  https://avtraining.org/

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, welcome back and happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting. Right now, I’m in my home country, Taiwan, teaching some rock climbing courses. Our guest today is Emma Walker. Emma spends a lot of time outdoors and currently serves as the Education Director for the American Institute for Avalanche Research & Education (AIARE).

Emma is a career outdoor educator with a background in curriculum design and a particular interest in accident analysis. A jill-of-all-trades, she has worked as a raft guide, avalanche educator, and in numerous other outdoor jobs, and has also made ends meet as a waitress, horse groom, and kindergarten teacher. She lives in Spring Green, Wisconsin, with her husband, son, and two badly behaved dogs.

Talking with Emma was so soothing; she answered all my questions with thoughtfulness and compassion. I gained so much knowledge from our conversations and couldn’t wait to incorporate all that wisdom into my daily guiding because, as she said, ‘good guiding is education.’ Now please enjoy this episode with Emma Walker.

Things We Talked about:

• The love of the outdoors stems from childhood
• Teaching runs in the family. Emma chose to be an educator but wanted to make sure she could spend much time outdoors
• The impact of the first NOLS course
• From Colorado to Alaska
• Place-based education
• Macro landscape VS. micro landscape
• What is Emma’s interpretation of experiential learning
• Emma’s short river guiding career
• Toughness doesn’t equate high risk tolerance
• What do we want to be remembered?
• What exactly does a curriculum specialist do?
• What does that mean by “student-centered”?
• How do we evaluate the effectiveness of a course?
• Adjust the avalanche education based on travel modes
• Why diversity is important in avalanche industry and other spaces?
• Emma’s book – DEAD RECKONING: LEARNING FROM ACCIDENTS IN THE OUTDOORS

Show Notes:

Angela’s Links:

• https://alpinist007.com/ (personal website)
• Angela Hawse takes helm of American Mountain Guides Association board as group leans on women to foster change in guiding culture

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today our guest is Angela Hawse.

Angela was the 6th woman in the U.S. to become an IFMGA mountain guide with a successful career spanning over three decades. She’s trained and examined aspiring guides for the AMGA for the past 19 years and served as the AMGA president for five. Angela’s led over 30 high altitude mountaineering expeditions to the world’s Greater Ranges and guided remote trips to the Arctic and Antarctic. She skied from Sweden to Norway across Lapland, reached the South Summit of Mt. Everest (500’ higher than K2) and has led numerous technical all-women’s ascents.

She’s currently on the board of the IFMGA and the 1st woman and non-European to join the Technical Commission. Angela has a Master’s Degree in International Mountain Conservation, is on the POW Alliance Team and a Black Diamond athlete. In 2011 she was awarded AMGA Guide of the Year and in 2022 received the AMGA Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award.

I love that she considers herself successful in mountain guiding because she still loves the profession and is still in it for the same reason that she got into it initially. She established a lifelong love of playing in the mountains since she was a kid. Her curiosity let her explore all facets of life related to guiding, and she hardly found boredom. We talked about dealing with burnout, giving back to the communities, her AMGA work, changes in the environment and the industry in the past 30+ years, and making a guide career sustainable. I’m super inspired by all the wisdom Angela brought in. Now please enjoy this episode with Angela Hawse.

Things We Talked about:

• Has been guiding for 3.5 decades and still going strong
• Angele’s special sauce to keep her in the industry for this long
• Stay curious
• Diversify
• Mental bandwidth
• Childhood
• Prescott college and first role model
• Was a dedicated climber for many many years before thinking about guiding
• Various jobs from Outward Bound, an adjunct position in Prescott, working for different guide services so on and so forth
• Expeditions and giving back
• All women’s expeditions
• What was is like being one of few female guides back then?
• Ways to develop confidence
• AMGA president – what happened during those years
• AMGA’s DEI work
• Angela deeply cares about climate change
• Trends and changes Angela saw in the past 3.5 decades in the mountains and in the industry
• Being a guide in the US full time
• What does Angela’s work consist of now?
• Alpinist 007

Show Notes:

Paloma’s Links:

• Paloma Farkas (website)
• Paloma’s instagram

Episode Intro:

Dear guests of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Our guest today is Paloma Farkas from Bishop California. Paloma is only 25 years old, but she already has 6 years of guiding under her belt. Right after she graduated from high school, her parents gifted her a NOLS backcountry rock course at the Wind River Range. Paloma then listened to the callings of mountains and followed her heart towards alpine rock climbing and started her guiding career.

Paloma grew up in Seattle, Washington where she discovered her passion for the mountains through family backpacking and climbing trips in the Cascades. In 2017 she traveled to South America and fell in love with the granite towers of Patagonia. Since then she has split her time between Patagonia, Chile and the US. Paloma spends as much time as possible climbing and some of her favorite areas are Patagonia, the Peruvian Andes, the Cascades, Indian Creek, the Wind River Range, and the High Sierras. Her favorite type of climbing is big wall alpine climbing, but Paloma also enjoys single pitch trad and sport climbing, bouldering and ice climbing. When Paloma isn’t pursuing her own climbing goals, she finds fulfillment in sharing her passion with others and teaching the skills necessary to be self-sufficient in the mountains. She is currently an AMGA Rock Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide, Wilderness First Responder, AIARE Avalanche Pro 1, and Leave No Trace Trainer.

I admire Paloma’s attitude of going for it when she knows what she wants. She works hard and remains optimistic. We had so much laughter during our conversation and I know you’ll laugh with us too when you listen to this episode.

Things We Talked about:

• Cross Country Running was already there
• Family’s influence – climbing wall at home, backpacking and climbing trips in the Cascades
• NOLS backcountry rock course changed Paloma’s life path
• The year of 2016
• Wanting to head out of the country, and wanting to go to the mountains
• A powerful conversation between father and daughter
• Why Patagonia?
• From dirtbagging to hiking guide to weekend warrior
• 2020 now what?
• After AMGA Rock Guide Course, Paloma started technical rock guiding in Bishop
• Comparing the work environment between the US and Chile from a female guide’s perspective
• Paloma’s vision and business ideas – train climbers in the Sierras and bring them to Patagonia
• Does Bishop has enough work year round?
• How to make Bishop guiding career sustainable?
• Favorite type of guiding?
• The so-called “Gap Courses”

Show Notes:

Taylor’s Links:

• Tangent Climbing website: tangentclimbing.com
• Taylor’s IG: @tay_frag
• Tangent’s IG: @tangent_climbing

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday and welcome back to another great episode. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas and our guest today is Taylor Fragomeni.

Taylor started climbing in the Adirondack Mountains of Upstate NY in May of 2011 and moved to SW Montana shortly after. She has 12 years of competitive and commercial routesetting experience and a decade of instructing/guiding/coaching experience. Taylor often works with coaches, routesetters, and guides to streamline their training plans to balance the physical demands of work and play that allows sustainable long term progress. Her coaching style is highly collaborative. She sees herself as a supporter and educator who empowers each individual to become an expert on their own athletic journey.

Taylor was my movement coach and helped me to write my own training plans. It is always fun to chat about climbing with Taylor. In this episode we focused on principles of how to train for your climbing goal while you have a physical demanding job. We also talked about how to help intermediate climbers get better with their movements and keep climbing fun. People who are interested in Taylor’s service can visit her business website: Tangent Climbing or get in contact with her via social media. Links to those resources are in the “Taylor’s Links” in Show Notes.

Things We Talked about:

• Help people to train when they have physically demanding jobs
• Being flexible and how
• Prioritize rest and make high quality sessions
• Listen to your brain but sometimes not listen to your brain
• At the end of the day, it’s a giant experiment on yourself
• Find the minimum effective dose
• It’s okay to have fluctuations
• Patience, patience, patience
• Goal setting
• Load management
• Grade of a route and its RIC scale
• Take notes and keep a journal
• Make small changes to build solid foundation
• Movement coaching
• How to transfer indoor gain to outdoor
• What does Taylor do?

EP 35 – Kristin Arnold & Sheldon Kerr – Break Down Barriers – Female Guides Requested Podcast

Kristin’s & Sheldon’s Links:

• Moxie Website: https://www.moxiemountainguides.com/
• The indigenous organization Moxie supports in SW CO: https://store.southernute-nsn.gov/product-category/bgcsu/
• All In Ice Fest: https://allinicefest.com/
• DEI trainings Kristin and Sheldon have completed and activists from the community that have helped to support their learning: Check Your Privilege: https://www.checkyourprivilege.co/store & Habit Queer: https://www.habitqueer.com/about-me
• These Colorado Women Are Reframing What It Means to Be a Mountain Guide – 5280
• The Woman Who Is Pushing for Gender Equality in the Guiding World – Powder

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we have two guests, Kristin Arnold and Sheldon Kerr, founders of Moxie Mountain Guides. I was super excited to finally pinned them down from their busy schedule to have this conversation. When I edited this episode, I paused multiple times to reflect and ask myself questions. What is a guide? What is a good guide? What are the so-called soft skills and how do they play a role in risk management? I learned so much from them and I’m so happy that they started Moxie.

Both Kristin and Sheldon are IFMGA mountain guides. IFMGA stands for International Federation of Mountain Guides Association, and their certification is the highest credential attainable by a professional mountain guide. As of spring 2024, they are 2 of 17 total women IFMGA in the US. Together they created Moxie Mountain Guides to align the profession of guiding with their values. Let me share a quote from their website “We guide for good. We believe representation matters. We want the mountain to be inclusive space for women, non-binary and trans-identifying backcountry athletes – no matter your body type, race, or gender.” Moxie strives to break down the social and financial barriers to accessing high-end technical instruction.

Kristin and Sheldon are also AMGA Instructor Team members. They teach AMGA mountain guide programs, including women’s Rock Guide course. I heard encouraging stories from their students and was curious to learn more about their philosophy and approach. In this episode we had a deep dive into what affinity space does, why inclusion is a fundamental component of risk management, how we should advocate equality and justice, and what professionalism means to guides. You will recognize their voices very quickly when you start listening, but to give you a head start. The first person talked was Kristin.

Without further ado, let’s go and enjoy the Moxie ride!

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is the third episode of the "Everything SPI" series. And yes I'm your host Ting Ting from sunny Las Vegas. Today we have a guest from the AMGA office, Andrew Megas-Russell. Andrew is the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Manager. He oversees the Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Instructor Programs.

The main topic of the episode was the new evaluation system. We talked about the background of transitioning from the old system to the new system and what the AMGA is trying to accomplish with the new system. We looked at the new scoring system and what factors would impact the score. We discussed how the new system has been received by the providers and candidates, etc. We also talked about other general topics such as high standard versus minimum standard, continuing future improvements on the SPI program, interesting stats, and exciting upcoming changes.

Links:

Official AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Page

SPI Program handbook

EP 20 Everything SPI 01 Professionalism & Risk Management

EP 29 Everything SPI 02 Site Selection & Group Management

Andrew Megas-Russell Instagram https://www.instagram.com/megas_sends/

What We Talked About

• Andrew's role in AMGA. Why is he relevant to SPI programs
• From the old eval system to the new eval system
• Overview of the new system and major improvements of the new system
• How to interpret the score? Addition? Subtraction?
• How do SPI providers and SPI candidates feel about the new scoring system?
• What's a strong written evaluation?
• The different roles played by the post exam debrief and written evaluation
• Is there an appeal process?
• Is it appropriate to say that SPI is an entry-level course?
• Are there too many SPIs out there?
• Interesting stats

Show Notes:

Jo’s Links:

• Ladies Weekend Out (website)
• Golden State Guiding (website)
• Jo’s instagram : www.instagram.com/jessielyse
• Jo’s Jess of All Trades Instagram: www.instagram.com/madebyjessofalltrades

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting, and I have been teaching and guiding in Pacific Northwest for the past month. I know you all have been waiting for another episode and I finally had a few rest days to edit this one out and present it to you!

Today’s guest is Jessica Olson. She often goes by her initials Jo. Born and raised in Southern California, Jo grew up traveling with her family and growing an appreciation for the outdoors. She was introduced to climbing through some college friends, and has been growing in the industry for over a decade. In 2016, Jo took an SPI Course and became a Single Pitch Instructor, where she went to work a summer in Alaska before moving to the PNW to grow more as a Rock Guide. She is now based in Bishop, CA, is an Apprentice Rock and Alpine Guide, and runs the Ladies Weekend Out programs, facilitated through Golden State Guiding. These programs focus on gathering like minded women to learn foundational skills in setting oneself up for the adventures ahead.

I met Jo when I worked with her at one of the Ladies Weekend Out events in Red Rock this past spring. I was impressed by her enthusiasm, the way she connected with the group of women, and her philosophy of giving climbing instruction! During the interview, I had so much fun. Jo was a good story teller and had a great sense of humor. She is also a handyperson, and runs a side gig called Jess of All Trades! Now please enjoy the show.

Things We Talked about:

• Jo’s backstories – managing horses, youth climbing coach, outdoor guides, handyperson
• Transition from gym to outdoors – the initial goal to becoming a guide
• Inspired by great mentors – learned the philosophy of climbing instruction
• Facing the reality, insurance?
• A summer in Alaska
• From CA to AK to PNW to van
• Ladies Weekend Out (LWO) programs and events
• Jo’s roles in LWO
• Why do many women keep coming back to LWO?
• Jo’s passion project – mentormovement
• What kind of mentorship ideas? Any structure?
• How to make passion projects sustainable to avoid burn-outs?
• Mentor Movement within LWO?
• Needed help and encouraged guides of LWO to collaborate organically.

Show Notes:

Mercedes’s Links:

• YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@MercedesPollmeier
• Website: https://www.modusathletica.com/
• Modus Cafe Podcast: https://www.modusathletica.com/podcasts/modus-cafe-conversations-beyond-climbing
• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/
• Simple Strength book: https://amzn.to/3LppunK
• Peak Nutrition Book: https://amzn.to/3zJIWch

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday and welcome to another fantastic episode. I’m your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas and today’s guest is Mercedes Pollmeier. I got in contact with her because we’re both connected to the organization Climbers of Color. She offers classes to teach people on how to boulder outside safely and also helps them with their performance goals.

Mercedes is a seasoned climbing coach and founder of Modus Athletica. She has a Master’s Degree in Human Movement and Sports Conditioning and holds certifications in NSCA strength and conditioning, Precision Nutrition, and GMB training. She is also a former semi-pro tennis player and competition climber.

Her approach to coaching is grounded in experience and fueled by a commitment to fostering a vibrant community culture within Modus Athletica. She believes that climbing is more than just a physical challenge; it’s an enriching journey that reveals our true potential, thus she offers a holistic approach to climbing training that prioritizes longevity, health, and personal growth.

I had so much fun interviewing Mercedes. I got to ask many questions about guiding bouldering and explored many aspects on learning and teaching movements. I even got to ask some self-serving questions about how to train when my guiding schedule gets crazily packed. Mercedes really cares about what she does and invests deeply in things she is passionate about. If you are a climber who is looking to enhance your performance while nurturing your well-being, check out Modus Athletica. Now please enjoy this episode with Mercedes!

Things We Talked about:

• What is like guiding bouldering outside?
• Mercedes Bouldering I & II curricula – safety, warm-ups, climbing, ethics, resting, project tactics, video reviews
• Coaching movements online?
• Some common issues – foot precision, extension, rotate, dynamic movements
• Being intentional is important
• Give people a path to self correct
• Big categories such as do they trust their positions? Their mindsets
• How to manage frustration
• Bridge inside climbing and outside climbing
• Rethink grading
• Movement is movement, think about global movements
• Learn a variety of movements help problem solving outside
• At the end of the day, ask “do you like to climb?”
• Outside climbing tends to be more static and controlled since the risk is higher
• What do outside and inside climbing share in common?
• And More...

https://femaleguidesrequested.com/podcast/ep-31-sof-petros-question-the-establishments/

Show Notes:

Sof’s Links:

• Sof Petros on Instagram
• Climbers of Color

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we have a young and inspiring guest whose name is Sof Petros. I got to know her a little last summer when I taught an SPI course for the Climbers of Color. She was the assistant Rock Director of the organization and helped me with many tasks. She was thorough, an excellent communicator and her emails were always filled with loads of positive energy and humor.

Sof is an AMGA SPI and a PSIA AASI Certified Alpine Ski instructor. She does rock guiding with Climbers of Color in Washington, Out in the Wild in Oregon, and Flash Foxy in California and teaches skiing in Stevens Pass Washington. She does admirable work in affinity space providing safe and supportive learning environments. To quote her words, she is “amped to join and lead affinity programming that not only brings communities together, but also challenges and questions systems and values of supremacy, domination, and oppression that manifest in climbing spaces, even ‘diverse ones.'”

In this episode, she recalled that her family always liked to play outside. Even though the activities they chose were not “technical recreation,” the sense of connection to nature and the land was very impactful. We of course talked much about affinity programs. Sof shared valuable insights on how we could make the environment more inclusive, which would also help guides manage risks and provide better student experience.

Beyond climbing and skiing, Sof can be found baking lots of bread, crying over just about every dog she sees, making jewelry, taking outdoor naps, eating really good pickles and hot sauces, and trying to make craft cocktails on her truck tailgate. Now let’s dive into this lighthearted yet serious conversation with Sof Petros.

Things We Talked about:

• Sof’s upbringing
• Central park bouldering started her climbing path
• Wearing multiple hats for her career
• Starting guiding in college at Columbia university in New Your City
• In summers guiding long multi-week trips in CO and WY
• What brought Sof to Pacific Northwest
• After college, Sof started a job in Chilean Patagonia and found her love towards ocean
• Why Sof uses the term “technical recreation”?
• How should we define outdoors and outdoorsy?
• How does Sof’s family see her now?
• Camping and backpacking with mom; skiing and climbing with little brother
• Working with and in affinity spaces
• What are the social and emotional risk factors?
• Feedback she got from non-affinity groups after she brought the practices used in affinity space
• Contemplating where she can make the most impact
• How can we make the principals we practice in affinity space more common sense?
• Why is it that hard for changes to happen?
• Sof’s personal experience going through the first BIPOC Guides Development Program hosted by Alpine Ascents
• Inclusive guiding practice
• Is how hard you climb and hard fast you ski important?
• And more…

Show Notes:

Emma’s Links:

• Emma Contaoe on MEC
• Climb Escapes (Website)
• Emma’s Instagram https://www.instagram.com/emmacontaoe/

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. I am your host, Ting Ting. I finally returned from my home country Taiwan and now am delivering this episode in Las Vegas. This episode is about Emma Contaoe, who was highly recommended to me by a listener whose life was impacted by her. I reached out and recorded the beautiful life story of Emma, how she stayed curious and followed her intuition and eventually found she could combine her passions and work into a fulfilling life.

Emma is an avid climber and certified rock climbing instructor in Quebec. She is the founder of Climbing Escapes, where she gives outdoor climbing courses to all types of climbers, as well as offers climbing and yoga retreats. After eight years of teaching, she finds joy and fulfillment through her business by combining her love of climbing instruction and creating a wholesome community.

In this episode, we talked about how she eventually tried rock climbing in Australia, where she found space to strip the constraints of the environment and identity she lived during the first two decades of her life. She then followed this awakening to Nepal and brought all she learned back home in Montreal. Her business was her dream and her mission. To build her business was a slow and steady process. There was fear, imposter syndrome, tears, and grief of her best friend’s passing. She got reaffirmation from classes she taught and from the mutually empowering space she created with other women.

Please enjoy this episode with Emma Contaoe.

Things We Talked about:

• First time climbing, wanted to start at a place where she could be anyone
• Constraints from the native environment
• Transition from “not for me” to fully “embracing the outdoors”
• Start the business not focusing on “nobody like me had done something similar before” but on doing what she loved
• Always following what she is curious about then built the intuition of what felt right
• Solo travel – a 4-year journey
• An encounter with “3-sister guiding services” in Nepal
• Finding a purpose during the repetitive traveling of seeing different places
• Hands on with charity work from building a shelter in after-quake Nepal to finding volunteers for a school project
• Reflection on what’s for her and what’s sustainable
• Early days of Climbing Escapes
• Mission statement of her dream business
• What does the word “retreat” mean to Emma
• Any structure to facilitate the so-called “down time” between climbing and yoga? Or just let the magic happen?
• Proudest moments
• Want the audience to take away
• And more…