In 1884, John Singer Sargent unveiled a portrait at the Paris Salon that he was certain would make him the most celebrated painter in France. Instead, a single fallen shoulder strap turned into the scandal of the season, and the room laughed at both the artist and his sitter.
The woman in the black dress was Virginie AmĂŠlie Avegno Gautreau, a New Orleansâborn Creole beauty who had spent nearly her whole life in Paris and was still described in the papers as American. Sargent was an American too, born in Italy, raised nowhere in particular, and equally desperate to be claimed by a French art world that would never quite claim him. They staked their reputations on the same canvas.
Then their paths split. Sargent lost commissions, fled to London, and was back on top within five years. AmĂŠlie commissioned portrait after portrait trying to replace the image that had defined her, and watched Paris stop caring. The painting that ruined her made him, and by the time it reached the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1916, her name had been removed from it entirely.
This episode covers the Paris Salon of 1884, the professional beauties of the Third Republic, the nineteenth-century debate over cosmetics and artifice, and what happens when two outsiders take the same risk and only one of them is allowed to recover from it.
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Further Reading:
- Elizabeth L. Block, "Virginie AmĂŠlie Avegno Gautreau: Living Statue," 17, no. 2 (Autumn 2018)