The Tile the World Podcast is a comprehensive podcast dedicated to professionals and enthusiasts in the tile and stone industry. Join your hosts, Andy and Ivy, as they delve into a wide range of topics, from the fundamentals of installation to advanced techniques and industry best practices.
Whether you're a seasoned contractor, a design professional, or a DIY homeowner, you'll find valuable insights and practical advice. We'll explore topics such as material selection, specification writing, troubleshooting common installation issues, and emerging trends in tile and stone technology.
Tune in to stay updated on the latest industry news, hear from industry experts, and learn how to elevate your tile and stone projects to new heights.
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How Chemistry Saved My Bacon (and the Client's Marble)
Thursday, December 4, 2025 • Duration
🎧 Key Takeaways & Topics Covered:
1. Know Your Stone (The Foundation)
Ceramic & Porcelain: These are "vitreous" (glass-like) and highly durable. They can handle standard cleaners.
Natural Stone (Marble, Travertine, Limestone): Made of calcium carbonate. These are highly sensitive to acids (vinegar, lemon juice) which will etch and dissolve the surface instantly.
Granite: A silicate (mostly quartz). Harder than marble, but still requires pH-neutral cleaners to protect the sealer, not just the stone.
2. The Chemistry of Cleaning (The pH Scale)
Daily Cleaning: Must be pH Neutral (6-8). This removes dirt without stripping your sealer or damaging the stone.
Alkaline & Acidic Cleaners: Used only for deep restorative cleaning. Warning: These will strip your sealer and must be used with caution.
3. LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile) Care
Dry Cleaning: Use an "S" or "Infinity" pattern when dust mopping to trap debris rather than flicking it forward.
Wet Cleaning: Keep it simple. Damp microfiber mop, warm water, and a tiny drop of dish soap. Never use polishers or abrasive scrubbers.
4. Deep Cleaning Solutions
DIY Grout Paste: Baking soda + 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (great for standard grout).
Yellow Grout: Straight hydrogen peroxide (let sit for 5-10 mins).
The "Nuclear" Option (Cement Grout Only): A 2-step process involving an alkaline degreaser followed by an acid micro-etch. Never use this on natural stone.
5. Sealing & Stain Removal
Impregnating Sealers: These soak into the pores to block oil and water.
Frequency: Kitchens (~1x year), Showers (every 2-3 months due to heat/moisture).
Application: Apply with a paint pad (not a rag), let dwell for 15 mins, and wipe off all excess to avoid a sticky film.
The Poultice Method: How to remove deep oil stains using a paste and the "capillary effect" over 24-48 hours.
6. The "Hand Feel" Test
Run a clean, dry hand over your shower tile. If it feels gritty or textured (like sandpaper), you still have soap scum and need a degreaser.
🔗 Resources & Mentions:
Follow for Tile Tips: Craig on Instagram (@tilenerdarmy)
Extruded porcelain tiles offer exceptional durability, unique textures, and are highly resistant to stains, acids, and frost. However, their wet-formed, high-pressure manufacturing process—likened to the Play-Doh Fun Factory—means that size variations are inherent and expected.
Join us as we reveal the expert techniques needed to install this material successfully, covering why the tiles are often mistakenly labeled "defective" and the crucial role that a wider grout joint and a larger trowel play in achieving a flawless, professional finish. We dive into how embracing the material’s "imperfect perfection" transforms the final look.
Timestamps and Discussion Points
[0:00] Introduction: The Quirk of Extrusion
Introducing extruded porcelain tiles, which are shaped by forcing wet clay through a high-pressure die.
The comparison to the Play-Doh Fun Factory to explain the unique manufacturing process.
Addressing the common installation issue where edges pull apart or tiles do not lie flat, leading contractors to claim the material is defective.
[1:30] Section 1: Extruded Tile Basics and Durability
Process: Extruded tiles are wet-formed from clay mixtures, sometimes including additives like feldspar or silica. They are fired at very high temperatures (1200–1400°C).
Composition: This results in an ultra-dense, non-porous product with low water absorption (<0.5%).
Strength: Extruded tiles boast high mechanical resistance and offer total resistance to stains, acids, frost, and thermal shock. They are suitable for outdoor and heavy-traffic areas.
The Big Reveal
Tuesday, August 12, 2025 • Duration
Welcome to "Tile Talk"! In this episode, we dive deep into the world of large format tiles (LFTs), typically defined as anything over 15 inches on one side. While they create stunning spaces, LFTs present unique challenges, often requiring more work and special care than smaller tiles. Learn how to avoid common pitfalls like lippage (uneven tile edges) and ensure a flawless, long-lasting installation.
Key Takeaways:
Substrate Preparation is Paramount:
Your floor must be incredibly flat, with no more than 1/8 inch variation within 10 feet and no more than 1/16 inch out of plane in 24 inches.
Self-leveling underlayment is highly recommended to achieve this crucial flatness, saving time and preventing guesswork with mortar thickness.
Mortar Matters: The Right Adhesive and Technique:
Always use a medium bed mortar specifically rated for Large and Heavy Tile (LHT or LFT), as it provides the necessary thickness, full coverage, and strong bond for oversized tiles.
"Key in" or "burn in" the mortar to the substrate using the flat side of your trowel to ensure mechanical lock and optimal bonding.
Back-buttering the tile is essential; apply a thin, even layer of mortar to the back of the tile itself. This helps account for natural tile warpage and ensures maximum coverage.
Use a large-notch trowel (e.g., half-inch by half-inch) for proper adhesion and coverage. Aim for at least 80% mortar coverage (95% in wet areas).
Managing Imperfections and Ensuring a Smooth Surface:
Large format tiles can naturally warp or dome in the middle; this is normal and not a defect.
Leveling clip systems are almost a necessity to pull tiles together and achieve consistent, lippage-free joints.
Terracotta Talk
Wednesday, June 11, 2025 • Duration
The Timeless Tale of Baked Earth: Unearthing Terracotta's Ancient Secrets & Modern Charm
Join us on a fascinating journey through over 5,000 years of architectural history as we delve into the world of terracotta tiles! From their humble origins as "baked earth" in ancient civilizations to their enduring influence in modern design, these distinctive reddish-brown tiles have a story to tell. In this episode, we explore everything from their diverse characteristics and intricate installation process to how to ensure they last a lifetime in your home.
In This Episode, You'll Discover:
The Ancient Roots of "Baked Earth":
Learn how terracotta – literally meaning "baked earth" in Italian – began its remarkable journey over 5,000 years ago in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, and China.
Uncover its pivotal role in early construction, from roofing and decoration to shaping the grand architecture of Classical Greece and Rome, including the innovative "imbrex and tegula" water-resistant system.
Explore its evolution through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, becoming synonymous with the rustic charm of rural Italy and the intricate artistry of Moorish Spain.
Understand that terracotta is indeed a type of ceramic, distinguished by its natural clay base and characteristic reddish-brown hues.
Understanding Terracotta's Unique Character:
Most terracotta tiles are inherently unglazed and porous, a key characteristic that dictates their need for protection.
Witness its proven durability and longevity, with tiles known to last for centuries, even a lifetime, often growing more beautiful with age.
Embrace its eco-friendly nature, as it's made from natural, abundant clay, often recyclable, and requires less energy to produce compared to other construction materials. Plus, it doesn't emit harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
Your Network: Simple Steps to Connect
Friday, May 30, 2025 • Duration
Podcast Episode Notes:
Episode Title: Connect & Grow: Leveraging Your Network for Business Success
Episode Summary: In this episode, we dive deep into the power of genuine connection and how to leverage your existing network and social media in authentic ways to drive sales and growth. Forget the pushy tactics; this is about being a human being first and building relationships that fuel momentum.
Key Topics Covered:
The Core Principle: Why "People buy the person, not the product." Understanding that relationships are the foundation of lasting business success.
Listening is Key: The crucial importance of truly listening and paying attention to people – online and off – to find common ground and understand their world. This is what makes you a great salesperson and allows for personalization.
Mining Your Network: Discovering that you likely have a much larger list of potential connections than you realize by gathering all your contacts from email, social media, and phone.
Being Personal, Not Pushy: How to reach out and engage in a way that is authentic and based on genuine interest in the other person, rather than immediately selling.
Building Momentum with Small Actions: How consistent, thoughtful interactions can build trust and keep you top of mind with your network.
Getting Your First Customers: Practical steps for leveraging your existing network to land your initial clients, even starting with free or discounted offers to gain experience, feedback, and testimonials.
Scaling Ethically: How to transition from free/discounted services to charging full price as you build demand and value.
Specific Takeaways & Actionable Strategies:
Organize Your Contacts: Start by creating a master list from your email, social media connections (those you can DM), and phone contacts. This is your initial pool of potential leads.
Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT): The Ultimate Guide for Tile and Stone Enthusiasts
Monday, May 12, 2025 • Duration
Episode Description: Join us as we explore the world of Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT) and Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) flooring. We break down the different types of LVT, from flexible glue-down to rigid core click-lock systems. Learn essential tips for subfloor preparation, including how to handle wood and concrete, the critical difference between flat and level, and how to tackle moisture issues that can derail your project. We'll guide you through the installation process for both click-lock and glue-down methods, emphasizing the importance of acclimation and perimeter gaps. Plus, we cover common troubleshooting steps and define key construction terms like plumb, level, and square. Whether you're a DIYer or a pro, this episode is packed with insights for a successful LVT installation.
In this episode, we cover:
*What is LVT/LVP?**
* Made with PVC and plasticizers, making them flexible.
*LVT** (Luxury Vinyl Tile) and LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank) refer to the size difference, with plank designation being for size.
*Types of LVT Installation:**
*Click System:** Planks lock together without mortar or glue. It's a unique system where you take planks out of the box, click them together, and they are in place. This system creates a water-resistant floor when locked together tightly.
*Rigid Core LVT:** A newer type that adds a structural element to the vinyl tile. It is a floating floor, potentially saving on demo or prep of existing hard surfaces. It often includes sound dampening capabilities.
*Glue Down:** Involves applying adhesive to the subfloor. Requires subfloor preparation like putting down plywood underlay and patching.
*Benefits of LVT:**
*Durability:** Known for durability with a lifespan of 10-20 years. Has superior strength against wear, tear, and moisture.
*Easy Installation:** The click-lock system is DIY-friendly. Glue-down can also be achieved by a novice.
Paint or Tile Over Tile
Tuesday, April 22, 2025 • Duration
Tile Transformation: Paint it or Plank it (Almost!)
Intro (0:00-1:00)
Tired of your outdated tile? Don't want the mess of a full demo? You've got options!
Introduce the two main contenders: painting over tile and tiling over tile.
Disclaimer: We'll break down the pros and cons of each to help you decide what's right for your project.
Painting Over Tile (1:00-7:00)
The Allure of Paint:
Budget-friendly and a quick way to change the look.
Great for a style refresh or covering dated tile.
Can turn a bland wall into a focal point.
The Reality Check:
Not a long-term fix compared to original tile.
Paint can chip, scratch, and peel, especially in high-traffic or high-moisture areas.
Grout lines disappear leading to a less defined look.
Generally not recommended for floor tile due to wear.
Painting shower tiles is also generally not recommended due to direct water exposure, though specialized products exist.
Key to Success: Preparation!
Clean thoroughly with a degreasing soap like Krud Kutter or TSP. Ensure the surface is squeaky clean.
Sand the tiles (100-200 grit sandpaper) to create a better surface for adhesion.
Crucial step: Prime with a high-adhesion primer like STIX primer. This helps the paint bond to the glossy tile surface.
How CRITICAL LIGHTING ruined my tile.
Thursday, April 10, 2025 • Duration
Introduction:
Ever been wowed by tile in one light, then horrified in another? Today we're diving into the dramatic, and sometimes deceiving, world of lighting and its effect on tile installations.
Our host reveals how different lighting can completely change the look of the same tile job, even making a perfect install appear flawed.
The Problem: When Light Highlights Defects (Even if They Aren't There):
Critical lighting (like wall wash or graze lighting) shines at a low angle, almost parallel to the tile surface.
This creates shadows that exaggerate even minor, acceptable imperfections in the tile and installation.
Think tiny variations in flatness (warpage) or slight lippage (uneven tile edges) – normal under industry standards – can look like major flaws under the wrong light.
The host demonstrates this with a patterned tile, showing how bringing a light closer to the wall makes the pattern much more pronounced due to the shadows cast.
Why This Matters:
Homeowners and inspectors unfamiliar with this effect might wrongly blame the tile contractor for a perceived bad installation and demand costly replacements.
A perfectly acceptable tile job can be deemed "crap" simply due to poor lighting choices.
The Solution: Distance is Your Friend:
The key takeaway: move the light source further away from the tiled surface.
A distance of at least 18 inches away from the wall is generally recommended to soften shadows and avoid highlighting minor imperfections.
This "washes" the wall with light at a less sharp angle, creating a more even and flattering illumination.
Why is your tile Cracking? I bet I know.
Friday, March 14, 2025 • Duration
Why did my TILE crack?
Tired of cracked tiles and unexpected pop-ups? Discover the secret weapon against tile failure: movement joints!
Main Talking Points:
The Undeniable Need for Movement Joints:
◦ Why all building materials move. Hear about structural movement and material expansion/contraction.
◦ Understanding differential movement between various materials like tile, mortar, substrate, wood, and concrete.
◦ Movement joints as "stress relievers" in your tile assembly.
◦ The number one cause of tile failure: lack of movement joints.
Planning for Success - Where and Why:
Consulting the design professional and the importance of asking clients about planned movement joints.
Perimeter Joints are a MUST: Leaving a crucial gap at walls and restraining surfaces.
◦ Internal Corners (In Corners): Why grout isn't enough and the role of sealant.
◦ Transitions Between Dissimilar Materials: Protecting tile where it meets wood, metal, etc..
◦ In-Field Movement Joints: Addressing movement in larger tiled areas with proper spacing (referencing TCNA EJ171).
◦ Honoring Substrate Joints: Carrying existing concrete joints through the tile work.
◦ Changes of Plane: Floor to wall and wall to wall considerations.
• Sealant vs. Caulk: Know Your Arsenal:
◦ The distinct difference between acrylic-based caulk and silicone-based joint sealant.
The Secret to Long-Lasting Stone: Cleaning and Maintenance Tips from the Pros
Friday, February 14, 2025 • Duration
Introduction
Welcome to the Tile the World podcast! Today, we're diving into the world of natural stone care. Whether you're a homeowner or a stone professional, this guide will help you understand the best practices for choosing, protecting, and maintaining natural stone.
• Natural stone is a unique and beautiful material created by nature over millions of years. Proper care is essential to preserve its beauty.
Understanding Your Stone
• Natural stone is categorized into three main types: sedimentary, metamorphic, and igneous. Stones in each category can be either calcareous or siliceous.
• Calcareous stone, like marble and limestone, is mainly composed of calcium carbonate, making it sensitive to acids.
• Siliceous stone is composed of silicates, such as quartz, and is generally more resistant to acids.
• Understanding your stone's composition helps determine the best cleaning products to use.
The Importance of Sealing
• Sealing is strongly recommended for all natural stone, especially newly installed marble, granite, and limestone.
• Sealers, or "impregnators," don't make the stone stain-proof but more stain-resistant, providing time to clean up spills.
• There are two main types of sealers:
◦ Penetrating/impregnating sealers: These are no-sheen, natural-look sealers suitable for interior and exterior use. They penetrate the stone and protect it from within.
◦ Stone enhancer sealers: These are also penetrating sealers, but they darken, enrich, and highlight the stone's natural color.
• Always follow the manufacturer's directions when applying sealer.
Aesthetics: They provide a more textured, natural, or rustic appearance and can be produced in complex shapes and thicknesses ranging from 8–20 mm.
[3:30] Section 2: Why Variation is Normal (The 1–2 mm Allowance)
The Tolerance: It is expected that extruded porcelain pieces will vary. A size difference of 1–2 mm is normal and "within norm and allowance".
The Inevitability of Imperfection: "Perfection in this type of product is not possible".
Causes of Variation: The wet clay mixture and subsequent firing process cause less predictable shrinkage compared to dry-pressed tiles. Complex shapes (e.g., Star and Cross patterns) are inherently harder to control dimensionally.
Lot Variations: Using different tile shapes (e.g., a white polished star and a white matte cross) from separate production lots (e.g., 55N and 54NA) could potentially contribute to size differences.
[6:30] Section 3: Installation Secrets and Essential Finesse
The Critical Grout Joint: The only way to "remove any difference that the tiles could be" is to use a wider joint. A minimum grout joint of 3–4 mm is required. For marketing purposes, 3/16" is recommended as the standard for most users. Increasing the grout joint helps mitigate issues.
The Trowel Upgrade: Use a larger than normal trowel. This allows for more mortar and the necessary "adjustment in the face" to compensate for tiles that may not lie flat or are bowed.
The Expert Approach: Installing extruded tiles "definitely takes some finesse". Skilled installers often avoid spacers, as adjustments to joints are "inevitable". Experts set tiles and adjust the fit manually as they work.
[10:30] Conclusion: The Final Transformation
A quick recap that what looks like a problem when dry-laid is solved by proper technique.
The product "after install in the correct way and grout change the look completely," delivering the desired look.
Key Takeaways for Installers and DIYers
Acknowledge Variation: Recognize that 1–2 mm size differences are normal for extruded porcelain.
Go Wide: Always use a minimum grout joint of 3–4 mm (or 3/16") to absorb inherent variations.
Adjust: Use a larger than normal trowel to provide the mortar volume needed for essential adjustments and leveling.
Embrace Finesse: Skilled installation requires dynamic adjustment rather than rigid reliance on spacers.
Consider wider grout joints. Industry standards recommend at least three times the facial dimension variance of the tile to manage natural size variations and reduce lippage. Limit tile offsets to 33% to minimize lippage.
Cutting and Handling Large Format Tiles:
When cutting, support the entire tile to prevent sprawling or breaking; heavy pieces hanging unsupported can crack. Place tiles on rigid insulation or foam board to reduce vibration.
Score the tile first and cut slowly using a back-and-forth motion with multiple passes to reduce tension and prevent cracks.
These tiles are heavy, so use a dolly or other moving tools to transport them, and don't hesitate to work in teams or "call a friend" to prevent fatigue and injury.
A Spectrum of Terracotta Tiles: Finding Your Perfect Match:
Learn the difference between machine-made "quarry tiles" (offering consistency and thin profiles) and handmade varieties (celebrated for their unique characteristics like variations in size, texture, pitting, undulations, and charmingly uneven edges).
Dive into specific types of authentic terracotta, each with its own story:
Kodo: Exceptionally dense and durable, often requiring less initial sealing.
Saltillo: A classic favorite with moderate durability, known for its wide color variations and irregular surfaces.
DeHanus Red: A more refined, uniform handmade option with consistent dark red tones.
Organic: The most natural and unapologetically handmade, sun-dried and low-temperature fired, with a rustic, distressed look and minimal carbon footprint.
Reclaimed Tiles: Salvaged from old buildings, showcasing a wide spectrum of colors and the natural patina of decades of use.
The Art of Terracotta Installation: A Craftsperson's Guide:
Preparation is paramount: Ensuring a clean, level, and thoroughly dry surface and acclimatizing tiles for at least 48 hours to prevent expansion or contraction issues.
Discover the crucial technique of "back-buttering" – applying adhesive directly to the tile's back – especially for uneven tiles, to ensure a strong bond.
Understand the nuances of grouting:
Pre-sealing tiles before grouting is absolutely crucial to prevent staining and make grout residue removal easier.
Learn why wider grout joints (typically 3/16" to 3/4" or 5-10mm) are common for terracotta.
Explore specialized methods like using a grout bag or carefully masking off joints to prevent grout from stubbornly sticking in the tile's natural crevices and pits.
Learn how to safely clean stubborn grout residue, sometimes using an acid cleaner with extreme caution.
The Protective Embrace of Sealing: After installation and grouting, a protective sealer is applied to repel water and stains, ensuring longevity. You can choose sealers that maintain a natural/matte finish or create a "wet effect" to enhance color.
Why Professional Installation is Recommended: Due to the natural variations and specific care requirements, professional installation by an experienced tiler is strongly recommended, as incorrect product application can lead to costly re-work.
Caring for Your Terracotta: A Lifetime of Beauty:
Learn the essentials of regular cleaning using mild, pH-neutral detergents, and why harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners should be avoided.
Understand the importance of periodic resealing (e.g., every 2-3 years, or 5-15 years for high-quality sealers) to maintain protection against stains and moisture.
Discover additional benefits: natural cooling properties in warm climates, being fire-resistant, and compatibility with underfloor heating systems.
Episode Breakdown:
[00:00] Welcome & Introduction: The Enduring Legacy of Baked Earth
[02:15] What is Terracotta? Demystifying the Material's Core Properties
[04:40] The Terracotta Family: Understanding Different Types and Their Charm
[08:50] The Installation Journey: A Step-by-Step Guide to Laying Terracotta Right
[17:30] Living with Terracotta: Maintenance for Lasting Beauty & Key Benefits
[22:00] Conclusion: Why Terracotta Remains a Timeless and Sustainable Choice
Don't forget to like, subscribe, and follow us for more insights into the simple (yet profound) things that shape our world!
Pick One Platform: Focus your initial outreach efforts on the platform where you have the most connections or feel most comfortable.
Personalize Your Message: When reaching out, use something you already know about the person or their profile to show you've taken time to understand them. Mentioning a shared interest, a life event, or something specific you noticed makes a big difference.
The "48 Cents" Strategy: Dedicate time weekly (e.g., 30-60 minutes) [5, see scheduling context] to leave 24 positive, thoughtful comments on the social media posts of people in your network, especially those who post actively. Focus on personal or in-house posts, not automated ones.
Offer Value First: If you're starting out, consider offering your service for free or heavily discounted to initial contacts in exchange for feedback, testimonials, and reviews. This lowers the barrier for them and helps you get "reps" to improve.
Don't Be Afraid to Ask for Referrals: Once you've provided value (even for free), don't hesitate to ask them if they know anyone else who might benefit from your service.
Quote to Remember: "People buy the person, not the product."
*Cost-Effective:** Generally less expensive than tile, stone, or terrazzo, especially considering installation costs and time. Installation labor is typically significantly less.
*Low Maintenance:** Does not require waxing, resealing, or stripping. The manufactured finish is the final finish.
*Variety of Designs:** Available in a wide range of designs, including realistic wood, stone, and tile looks.
*Understanding LVT Structure:**
* A multi-layered product.
* Includes a vinyl core (or base layer) for stability.
* A print layer for the desired aesthetic.
A *wear layer** to protect from wear and tear; thickness impacts durability against scratches and stains. Heavier wear layers are needed for commercial use compared to residential.
* A top coat for UV protection and finish.
* Rigid core materials have an additional rigid core layer underneath the vinyl core. Some rigid core materials also have a sound dampening layer.
*Subfloor Preparation - The Key to Success:**
* Preparation is crucial for any installation.
Subfloor must be *smooth, flat, and level**. Imperfections can show through or cause tension.
* You can't have bumps or humps underneath LVT. LVT is pliable, and imperfections can show as you walk on the floor.
* Tension created by dips and bumps can cause the click-lock system to come undone or break, leading to tenting and tiles pulling apart.
*Flatness vs. Level:** It's critical to understand they are not the same.
*Level:** Horizontally aligned with gravity. Used to establish pitch for slanted surfaces or describes a flat surface with no irregularities in concrete work.
*Flat:** A smooth, even surface without dips or bumps. Flatness is what matters most for LVT. Typical requirement is 1/8 inch in 10 feet.
*Wood Floors:** Use a scraper or hammer to deal with screws or nails popping up. Prep seams of plywood with a patch material. Patch low spots to avoid hollow spots underfoot. Use a level to check for light between the level and subfloor; any gaps should be filled. Serious issues may require self-leveling.
*Concrete Floors:** Check for flatness even if it seems flat. Any variations need to be filled with patch or self-leveling material. Most of the time won't have screws.
*Moisture Issues (especially with Concrete):**
* Excess moisture adversely affects flooring. It can compromise the flooring's integrity.
* Moisture issues can lead to warping, mildew growth, and problems with planks separating or tenting.
* Before 1979, petroleum-based cutback adhesives were durable and water-resistant. Low VOC formulations introduced later could not hold up under high moisture environments, increasing moisture failures.
* Technology advancements are helping solve moisture issues without creating adverse air quality problems.
* ASTM International Standard F710 is a common reference for preparing concrete floors, including installing a moisture barrier, cleaning/testing the slab, and ensuring materials/environment are acclimated.
* For new construction, an effective, permanent moisture vapor retarder (flexible plastic sheet) should be placed under the slab (ASTM 1745). Most manufacturers suggest Class B or better. Permeance, tensile strength, and puncture resistance define the classes.
* For existing structures, the slab should be clean, free of residue (including cut back adhesive), dry, and structurally sound.
*Testing for Moisture:** The moisture level is composed of three readings: relative humidity, moisture vapor emission rate, and/or pH.
*Relative Humidity (RH):** Percentage of moisture within a slab relative to how much it could hold. Tested by drilling into the slab and using a sensor. Most LVT manufacturers warranty installations on concrete substrates with a maximum RH of 85% using an probe test (ASTM F2170). Wood substrates can use an RH meter.
*Moisture Vapor Emission Rate (MVER):** Also called a calcium chloride test; measures surface moisture. Performed by sealing calcium chloride on concrete under a dome for three days and weighing the moisture absorbed.
*Potential Hydrogen (pH):** Scale of 0-14. Fresh concrete is usually 12-13, moving lower as it cures. High moisture means higher pH. Test pH when choosing adhesives, especially for existing structures. Can use paper testing strips.
*What Goes Wrong:** High RH or MVER with the wrong adhesive can cause it to emulsify, ooze at seams, and the floor to curl, bubble, emit odor, or be easily displaced. Water will find a way out.
*New vs. Older Slabs:** New slabs start at 100% RH and should decrease as they cure. Older slabs can have high RH due to hydrostatic pressure (below water table), poor drainage, or leaks. High RH in an old slab may require finding the source of moisture.
*Solving Moisture Issues:** Options include chemical sealants (check compatibility with adhesive/warranty), moisture suppressant systems (check adhesive/flooring compatibility), moisture resistant adhesives (spray, trowel, peel and bond), or dry installation using tabs or a floating/interlocking floor. Dry installation is an option with elevated moisture readings. Tabs often require no moisture testing, and most floating/click installations are 90%+ RH compatible.
*Acclimation:**
* Always required with LVT.
* Allows the material to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the installation space. Drastic temperature changes can cause havoc.
* Acclimate for 24 to 48 hours ahead of time. Some recommendations are 48-72 hours.
* Store LVT in the installation space at stable temperature (typically 65-85°F) and humidity (35-65%).
* Proper acclimation ensures a stable, long-lasting installation.
*Layout and Installation (Click-Lock):**
* Layout is crucial for a professional look.
*Critical:** Leaving a gap around the perimeter of the room. Tension from temperature changes needs room; no gap can cause tinting, click system pulling apart, or flooring coming up. Read directions for suggested gap size. Spacers can help maintain the gap.
* The gap can be covered by baseboard installed on top of the floor (if baseboard is not yet installed) or by quarter round/shoe molding (if baseboard is existing).
* Make sure the short end of the LVT is against your starting wall.
* Fit the tongue and groove system together, lay them down, click into place, and adjust. Locks together tight, creating a water-resistant floor.
* Damaged pieces should be laid aside and used for cuts.
*Cutting:** Can use hand tools, a carpenter's miter box, or a razor knife. Strike your line, cut with a razor knife, and pop the material.
* Any cut tiles go at the end of the room or around a wall and should be covered by base or shoe molding.
*Working Backwards:** The click system allows you to lift a tile and slide it to adjust.
*Head Joints:** Can be tricky. If there's a gap after laying, a rubber mallet can help; tap the end of the LVT carefully to pop it in. Be careful to protect the tongue and groove system.
*Installation (Glue-Down):**
* Requires a plywood underlay down on OSB or plywood. Need to patch joints and big gaps with water patch. Apply patch thinly or in multiple coats. Let it dry and sand.
* Ensure material sits under door jams; cut jams if needed.
* Apply the recommended glue using a trowel. Work from one corner up. Avoid thick spots. Glue should be sticky when set. Pressure-sensitive glue sticks more the more you push on it.
* Cut edges towards the wall. Wipe glue off immediately if needed.
* Cutting can be done with a guillotine, square and sharp knife. Score the material and bend it to snap.
* May need creative techniques to keep rows straight, especially when continuing from an old floor.
* Sometimes easier to cover obstructions like vents and cut them out afterwards.
*Expansion Gaps and Transition Strips:**
* Leaving a space around the perimeter is critical. This gap allows for expansion and contraction, preventing issues.
* A perimeter gap is typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch, depending on the manufacturer.
* Gap should be left around edges of the room and covered by baseboards or trim. Don't forget kitchen islands.
* Transition strips can be used for expansion joints.
*Troubleshooting Common Issues:**
*Planks Separating & Tenting/Buckling:** Can be caused by subfloor problems, expansion and contraction issues (incorrect acclimation, insufficient perimeter gap), or moisture issues.
* Key questions to ask when troubleshooting include: product received/installed dates, when issues were noticed/reported, where the product was stored, where it was installed, subfloor measurements/condition (photos helpful), if a perimeter gap was left (size/spacers/photos helpful), if flooring was inspected before installation, tools used for locking system, if heavy objects were rolled across, size of space, use of transition strips, and how edges were secured next to other materials.
*Relevant Terminology:**
*Plumb:** Truly vertical, straight up and down. Perpendicular to the horizon. Tested with spirit levels, laser levels, or a plumb bob.
*Level:** Horizontal dimension. Both ends are on the same horizontal plane. Relative to the horizon or perpendicular to gravity. Tested with bubble levels and laser levels. Also used to describe a flat surface with no irregularities.
*Square:** Two intersecting surfaces forming a 90-degree angle. A common right angle. Applies anywhere two surfaces meet at 90 degrees. Tools like speed squares, framing squares, etc., test for squareness. Visible gaps show structures are out of square.
*True:** Refers to something set to accurate, exacting standards, whether it's plumb, level, or square. If something is slightly off, it might be called "not true" or need to be "trued up".
*LVT Over Heated Floors:**
* Can be installed over radiant heated floors if compatible.
* System must maintain temperatures within manufacturer's range, typically not exceeding 85°F (29°C).
* Operate heating system at consistent temperature for at least 48 hours before, during, and after installation.
*Care and Maintenance:**
* While durable, LVT can be scratched. Use soft feet on furniture. Solutions like stains or tints may help polish out scratches.
* The wear layer provides stain and scratch resistance, but nothing is scratch or stain proof.
* Low maintenance, no waxing/resealing/stripping needed.
* ASTM International (Standards F710, ASTM 1745, ASTM F2170)
* Mannington Commercial
We hope this overview helps you better understand LVT flooring! Remember to check the manufacturer's specific guidelines for your chosen product.
Choosing the Right Paint:
Use multiple thin coats of a semi-gloss finish for a tile-like shine.
For bathrooms and high humidity, use a mildew-resistant paint like Aura Bath & Spa.
Consider waterborne alkyd paints for a durable, high-end finish, such as Behr Cabinet & Trim Enamel.
For areas with permanent water contact (like showers), a 2-component epoxy-based tile paint (tile paint 2K) might be an option, requiring mixing resin and hardener.
Application Tips: Roll the primer/paint, then brush into grout lines, then smooth with the roller.
Remember: Paint can chip and peel, especially in tough areas.
Tiling Over Tile (7:00-13:00)
The Promise of Permanence:
A more permanent and durable solution compared to paint.
The Complexities:
Generally more complex and costly than painting.
Requires more expertise.
Foundation First: Assessing Your Existing Tile:
Crucially, the old tile must be in good shape.
It needs to be solidly attached. Perform a tap test with a wood mallet; hollow sounds indicate loose tiles. Loose tiles should NOT be tiled over.
The surface must be flat and level.
No cracks, crumbling grout, or signs of moisture. Tiling over leaks is a bad idea.
Preparation is Still Key:
Clean the existing tile thoroughly.
You cannot apply thinset directly to old tile because it won't stick. Especially glossy or polished tile.
Use a bonding primer specifically designed for tiling over tile, such as ECO Prim Grip or Prime and Bond from Laticrete. This creates a gritty surface for the mortar to bond to.
Mix the primer well before application. Apply with a roller or brush.
Installation: Proceed with standard tile installation techniques.
Potential Drawbacks:
The added thickness of the new tile can cause problems with door clearances, thresholds, and other fittings.
Consider the transition to adjoining rooms.
Increased weight, especially on walls, could be an issue.
If you ever remove the tile, you'll have two layers to deal with.
Conclusion (13:00-15:00)
Quick recap of the pros and cons of painting vs. tiling over.
Painting is budget-friendly and quick for a style update but not long-term and has limitations in wet/high-traffic areas.
Tiling over is more permanent and durable but more complex, costly, and requires a solid foundation and proper prep.
Ultimately, the right method depends on your budget, desired longevity, the condition of your existing tile, and the location of the project.
Thorough preparation and using the right materials are crucial for success with either method.
Consider consulting professionals for advice.
Outro (15:00-16:00)
Thank listeners for tuning in.
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Contractor Considerations:
Be aware of the lighting plan before starting a job.
If wall wash or close-proximity lighting is specified, discuss the potential effects with the client and designers early on.
Ideally, request that permanent lighting be installed before tiling so you can see the impact as you work.
This allows you to adjust your technique and manage expectations proactively.
Consider using temporary lighting that mimics the final lighting conditions during installation.
Real-World Example:
The host shares a personal observation in Penn Station, where the same tile looks drastically different on a curved wall due to the varying proximity of the lighting fixtures. One section with lights further away looks fine, while another with lights right up against the wall appears uneven and poorly installed.
Call to Action:
Be mindful of lighting in tile installations.
Contractors: discuss lighting with clients and designers.
Designers: consider the impact of lighting on the final tile appearance.
Everyone: aim for lighting that enhances the tile's beauty, not its perceived flaws.
◦ Why silicone sealant is superior for tile due to strength and elasticity.
◦ The importance of durability and water resistance.
◦ Mentioning color-matched sealant options.
◦ Sealant must be 100% silicone, urethane, or polysulfide as per EJ17125 .
• Proper Installation Techniques:
◦ Emphasizing the need to leave a gap for movement.
◦ Keeping joints clean from mortar and grout.
◦ Using a backup rod for wider joints.
◦ How sealant should adhere only to the sides of the tiles.
• The Price of Neglect: Failure is Inevitable:
◦ Highlighting potential problems like tile tenting, cracking, and bond failure.
◦ The possibility of issues arising months or years later .
• The Ultimate Resource: TCNA EJ171:
◦ Directing listeners to the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) Handbook and EJ171 for detailed guidelines and calculations.
◦ Mentioning ASTM C1193 for sealant application.
Don't let a small oversight lead to big problems. By understanding and implementing movement joints with the right sealant, you can ensure your tile and stone installations stand the test of time. Check out the TCNA Handbook EJ171 for all the specifics!
Subscribe for more essential tile installation tips! Leave a comment with your movement joint experiences!
• Apply sealer liberally in small sections, let it soak in, and then wipe off excess. Allow 15 minutes for the sealer to soak in before wiping off.
• A second coat can be applied after 30 minutes and then wiped off. Let the stone cure for 72 hours.
• Test your sealer regularly by dropping water on the surface. If water absorbs quickly, it's time to reseal.
Routine Cleaning and Maintenance
• Clean stone surfaces with a neutral cleaner, stone soap, or mild dishwashing detergent and warm water.
• Avoid acidic cleaners like vinegar, lemon juice, or harsh bathroom cleaners, as they can damage the stone.
• Avoid abrasive cleaners such as scouring powders or creams that can scratch the stone.
• Use a clean rag mop for floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces.
• Rinse thoroughly with clean water, changing the water frequently.
• For soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Caution: overuse of ammonia can dull the surface.
• For outdoor areas, flush with clear water and use a mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.
• Preventative measures:
◦ Use coasters under glasses.
◦ Use trivets or mats under hot dishes.
◦ Dust mop floors frequently using a clean, non-treated dry dust mop.
◦ Use mats or rugs inside and outside entrances.
◦ Avoid using worn vacuum cleaners that can scratch the surface.
◦ Blot up spills immediately. Don't wipe, as this will spread the spill.
Stain Removal
• Identifying the type of stain is key to removing it.
• Common stain types:
◦ Oil-based: (grease, cooking oil, cosmetics) Clean gently with mineral spirits or acetone.
◦ Organic: (food, coffee, tea, fruit, urine) May cause pinkish-brown stains. Clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. Outdoors, sun and rain can bleach stains out.
◦ Metal: (rust, copper) May require a poultice.
◦ Biological: (algae, mildew) Clean with diluted ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide (1/2 cup to a gallon of water). Do not mix bleach and ammonia.
◦ Ink: Clean light stones with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. On dark stones, use lacquer thinner or acetone.
◦ Paint: Small amounts can be scraped off or removed with lacquer thinner. For larger amounts use a commercial paint stripper.
◦ Water spots and rings: Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.
• Poultices:
◦ Poultices can be used to draw out stubborn stains.
◦ Mix baking soda or kaolin clay with hydrogen peroxide to create a thick paste. For tough rust stains, you can add a few drops of ammonia.
◦ Spread the paste about 1/4 inch thick over the stain, and cover it with plastic wrap, taping down the edges to keep it moist.
◦ Leave for 24-48 hours, remove the plastic wrap, let the poultice dry completely, then scrape it off.
◦ Clean the area with distilled water and a soft cloth and dry it thoroughly.
◦ Poultices may dull the shine of polished stone, and you may need to use a stone polish to restore the shine.
When to Call a Professional
• For etch marks, deep scratches, or stains that you can't remove yourself, consult a stone professional.
• If you have fire or smoke damage you may need a professional.
• For efflorescence (a white powder on the surface) that won't go away, contact your installer.
Conclusion
• Natural stone is a durable and beautiful material that requires the right care to ensure it lasts a lifetime.
• By following these steps, you can keep your natural stone surfaces looking their best for years to come.
These notes cover the key points from the audio overview, providing a structured guide for listeners to refer back to. They include essential information about stone types, sealing, cleaning, stain removal, and maintenance, emphasizing preventative measures and when to seek professional help.
