Explore every episode of the podcast The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
| Title | Pub. Date | Duration | |
|---|---|---|---|
| TBP 271: How to Get Out of a Motivational Slump - Coach Alex Stiger | 29 Aug 2024 | 00:20:17 | |
Coach Alex Stiger describes a 3-month slump she was in, how she methodically got out of that slump, and how she coaches her clients to get re-motivated when they've lost their psych for climbing. | |||
| TBP 270: Sport Psychology Coach on How to Foster a Growth Mindset in Youth and Adult Climbers | 21 Aug 2024 | 01:18:36 | |
Zoe Sayetta is a youth and adult climbing coach in New York and she has her masters in sport psychology. She loves working with youth, especially on their mindset, and she has a private practice as a sport psychology coach for youth and adults. I asked her to be on the show so we could talk about the most common things she sees in her team and her clients and how she helps them all have a healthier, more productive mindset in climbing. Here’s what we talked about:
| |||
| [Replay!] TBP 262: Alex Stiger Tells You How to Break into 5.12 Climbing | 29 May 2024 | 01:08:54 | |
This is a replay of an episode that originally aired in January, 2023. I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that. While you might predict that strength training is one of the main tools Alex uses with her clients in this situation, it is not, as she says it is very rare to find a person who is climbing 5.11 who can not climb 5.12 with the strength they already have. So while we spend a few minutes talking about strength training, you’ll find compelling evidence in this episode that that may not be your issue. Here are some of the other topics we discuss:
We talk about a lot in this episode, and I highly recommend it if you’re at the 5.10 or 5.11 level, or if you’re just not consistently climbing 5.12’s and you’d like to. Even if you are climbing 5.12’s consistently, I think a lot of her tactics will help you! Show Links | |||
| TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase | 29 Jul 2021 | 01:01:02 | |
About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases. Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here 8 Tips for a Successful Performance PhaseIn the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that’s a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you’re just trying to send hard stuff. These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it. At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on Patreon. If you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content. Episode Details
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Photo Credit Photo of Dru Mack by Matt Pincus @mpincus87 | |||
| TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn | 20 Jul 2021 | 00:59:55 | |
Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years. I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I’m a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who’s been working exclusively with climbers since 2014. In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she’s a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I’m going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on. Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I’m back and I’m psyched! You’ll be seeing more episodes every month now that I’m re-stoked. I’ll explain more in the episode. If you’re interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content. Q&A Details
| |||
| TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy | 14 Jul 2021 | 01:01:02 | |
In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles. She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the “season” of pregnancy. Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach. She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two! Joy Black Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training | 09 Jun 2021 | 01:20:58 | |
About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research. By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best. He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad. His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions. While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. Training Programs for YouDo you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
| |||
| TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females | 28 Apr 2021 | 00:59:43 | |
Females in Climbing In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course. In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long. FREE Women’s Train Smarter Challenge Starts Next WeekOn Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body’s specific needs. It’s completely free, and even if you can’t make the live calls we’ll send the recordings out to you. Schedule of Events
To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below. LEARN ABOUT THE CHALLENGE FOR WOMEN Alex Stiger Interview Details
| |||
| TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport | 15 Apr 2021 | 01:11:03 | |
About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she’s learned to effectively do both at the same time. She’s had some great success with her clients, many of whom don’t have much time for training, so she lets us in on some tips for how to train when you’re super busy with other stuff. This one is full of little nuggets of wisdom that you can apply to your life right now, and Lauren’s excitement and passion for climbing is infectious. I really enjoyed talking with her. If you want to learn more from Lauren…She’s offering $100 off her new Crush It: Sport Climbing training program right now. Or you can check out her other services on her site. Lauren Abernathy Interview Details
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life | 11 Mar 2021 | 01:14:00 | |
About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topics:
They’re offering 10% off for TrainingBeta listeners using the code “trainingbeta10” and you can find more about the event in the link below: LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CLIMBWELL RETREATI wanted to ask them about the basics of what they’ll be teaching at the retreat, so I asked all 3 of them to be on the show. All of these topics are so relevant to all of us, but we focused a lot on finding balance in your life while also being passionate about climbing. Please visit their website to find out more about what they teach and about the retreat at www.climbwell.co. ClimbWell Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. TranscriptComing soon… | |||
| TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering | 08 Mar 2021 | 01:05:27 | |
About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he’s an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017. In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity. CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM Matt Pincus Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind | 08 Feb 2021 | 01:11:13 | |
About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you’ll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we’ll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes. Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you’d like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex. Alex Stiger Interview Details
| |||
| TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35 | 20 Jan 2021 | 01:08:56 | |
About Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He’s a climber in his 50’s who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he’s catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 sons are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14’s by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also runs the company Physivantage, which sells supplements for athletes. My New PuppyI said I would put a photo up of our new puppy (we don’t have her yet) and here she is! She’s a heeler/border collie mix, just like our other dog. We get her in three weeks and we are SO EXCITED! Eric Hörst Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…
| |||
| TBP 261: Ben Hanna's Training and Mindset for Competitions and Sending 5.15a | 22 May 2024 | 01:29:29 | |
Ben Hanna is a 25-year-old professional climber originally from New Mexico. He climbs hard sport routes outside and he’s active in competition climbing. He started climbing at the age of 10 and quickly gained notoriety as a youth competitor. He’s gone on to podium at 2 national championships and climb 5.15a. I wanted to talk to Ben about how he trains, what his competition mindset strategies are, and what it’s like to be a professional, full-time climber. He goes into detail about his “early life crisis” when he decided to put his faith in a coach to help him really level up his climbing abilities. It worked, and we go into exactly what he did during that long training phase and how it changed his body. We also talk about the mindset tools he uses, the books he reads on the subject, and how he implements having a growth mindset and having a different definition of success than just winning and sending. Bonus Content on Patreon
You can find all of that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free video episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page. GET THE AD-FREE INTERVIEW AND BONUS CONTENT | |||
| TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers | 07 Jan 2021 | 00:56:23 | |
About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we’re training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley system, or weight attached to our bodies. However, Tyler talks about how we can just pull on the hangboard, without our feet leaving the ground, and increase our reps in order to train for long, endurance climbs. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called To Pull or Hang, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 7 other podcast episodes with him. You could say he’s a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler
Tyler Nelson Interview Details
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. | |||
| TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling | 23 Dec 2020 | 01:19:55 | |
About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and exploring for as long as she can remember. Throughout the past decade, she travelled the world representing Austria at youth climbing competitions and later on in the one or other Bouldering World Cup. Nowadays you can still find her climbing in the gym or outdoors as often as possible. She has done lead climbs and boulders in the 8th grade outside (Font & French grades). Fear of Falling Masterclass DiscountMadeleine recently published a Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers, which you can purchase at any time to work through your fears of falling. Madeleine is also giving TrainingBeta listeners $60 off with code #TRAININGBETA. I asked her to be on the podcast because sometimes the fear of falling keeps us from reaching our potential as climbers; it’s so important to work through it if it’s holding you back. So in this interview we discussed the different reasons that climbers are afraid of falling and, using the tenets of her masterclass, how we can overcome those fears. CHECK OUT THE MASTERCLASS Madeleine Crane Interview Details
Rock Climbing Training Programs Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating | 09 Dec 2020 | 01:09:42 | |
About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She’s been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her son got into climbing, she followed suit. The reason I wanted to speak with Marisa is that she has a lot of knowledge about Intuitive Eating, which is a popular topic right now. She gives us an explanation of exactly what it is and how it can be used to improve our health and our relationship with food. Marisa Michael Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach | 11 Nov 2020 | 00:59:29 | |
About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to have her on the show again to talk about how her coaching has evolved as she has, and how she’s come back strong after difficult injuries. You’ll be hearing more from Alex on TrainingBeta soon, so stay tuned for that. Alex Stiger Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Photo CreditPhoto of Alex on Homunculous 5.14a in Rifle by Jill Stompel @shmitpiex Please Review The Podcast on iTunesPlease give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. TranscriptComing soon… | |||
| TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health | 28 Oct 2020 | 01:12:50 | |
About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You and Good for the Planet. She also produced a film, Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat and you can sign up to watch the world premier starting November 22, 2020 here. I watched the film and it’s fantastic. It’s all about how we’ve been raising meat all wrong since the industrial revolution, and how our mismanaged farm and ranch lands are destroying the environment. When animals are raised properly, their biproducts and behaviors actually sequester carbon, help plants grow deeper roots to maintain foliage, and make our soil much more nutritious and viable. It’s the cycle of life, and it’s been this way since there have been plants and animals. I asked Diana to be on my show because nutrition is low hanging fruit for climbers, and when I ask my clients to eat more protein, they feel better and climb better. Meat in all its forms is the most nutrient dense and efficient form of protein we can eat, but a lot of climbers have eschewed meat for the sake of the environment and their health. But I–rather, Diana–is here to tell you that meat, when raised properly and humanely, can be supremely helpful to the environment and very beneficial to your health, much to the contrary of what you’ve been told recently. In fact, plant-based diets can actually be quite detrimental to both the environment and your health. There’s a lot to learn here. Please give this one a listen. I guarantee you’ll learn something, whether you’re a plant-based or carnivore eater, or anything in between. I really appreciate you listening. Diana Rodgers Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… | |||
| TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing | 14 Oct 2020 | 01:07:27 | |
About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed Champion 4. 2019 U.S. Overall Team Member 5. Sending The Vice, 8B/V13 in Rocklands, South Africa Pretty impressive, right? That’s why I asked him to be on the show to talk about how he trains for speed climbing. He clearly takes his sport very seriously and he personally piqued my interest in speed climbing, so I was honored that he agreed to this interview. NOTE: This interview was recorded on March 19, 2020 in the beginning of the COVID lockdowns, so some logistics we talk about may not line up with what’s happening right now. The training information is still as relevant as ever, though. John Brosler Interview Details
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Please Review The Podcast on iTunesPlease give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. | |||
| TBP 156 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Hip Injuries | 07 Oct 2020 | 01:26:52 | |
Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so I hope it helps you out. More Details
Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Supporting Videos from EpisodeHip Mobility Part 1
Hip Mobility Part 2 Rock Rehab Protocol LinksDr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we’ve made available for $15 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab.
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. TranscriptComing soon… | |||
| TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training | 30 Sep 2020 | 00:58:31 | |
About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we’re training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to gain more true power endurance using specific techniques. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called High Volume Power Training for Climbers, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family. You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 6 other podcast episodes with him:
He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Tyler Nelson Interview Details
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. Training Programs for YouDo you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Transcript Coming soon. | |||
| TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition | 24 Aug 2020 | 01:11:52 | |
About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we’ll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don’t “struggle” with energy levels, it’s quite possible that your energy could be even more on-point than it is now, and that can be low hanging fruit in terms of your climbing performance. I’m running a Nutrition for Climbers Program from August 28th through September 25th, all about how to improve your energy levels, lean out, and fuel for performance and recovery, as well as how to deal with some of the emotional eating issues I’ve talked about on this podcast. You can enroll until this Thursday, August 27th, here. Conversation DetailsThe topics we covered in regards to increasing your energy levels:
Links
Alyssa Neill
| |||
| TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women’s Specific Training and Nutrition Needs | 12 Aug 2020 | 00:59:39 | |
About Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at LadyBetaCoaching.com who specializes in females’ training and health needs. She’s also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and because she’s one of the only people talking about women’s specific training needs. We talked about women’s specific needs in climbing training and performance as well as our specific diet needs. We talk about what we should be training in the different phases of women’s cycles and how hormones affect our physical and emotional states. And we discuss how we can work with our cycles instead of just being annoyed that we have to deal with our periods every month. We also talk about her business coaching and her climbing coaching services, and how she might be able to help you. Chelsea is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about her climbing and her coaching, and it shows in this interview. I really enjoyed my talk with her and I hope you do too. Chelsea Murn Interview Details
| |||
| TBP 260: Short Climbers - How to Feel Less Frustrated about Your Height | 13 May 2024 | 00:21:22 | |
In this episode, I talk about how I've worked through my negative feelings about being a short climber. I used to care a lot about not being acknowledged for things I thought were harder for me as a short climber, and I used to feel envious of taller climbers' long reach. But having done the kind of work I will guide you through in this episode, most of the time I honestly don't care anymore what other climbers are doing or how hard something feels for me as a short climber. This episode will give you a roadmap to look at your own feelings, values, and thoughts about the situation so that you can enjoy climbing for what it is to YOU - not how it compares with someone else's experience. Get more mindset and nutrition coaching advice like this on my patreon: www.patreon.com/trainingbeta
| |||
| TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing | 29 Jul 2020 | 01:21:13 | |
I talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community. | |||
| TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers | 15 Jul 2020 | 01:36:29 | |
About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own experiences with it all and provide tips on how to balance your diet to get all the nutrients you need while maintaining your optimal, healthy body composition. We talk about common behaviors we see in our clients that sabotage their performance and health goals, and how to improve those behaviors. And we provide mental/emotional tools to help deal with negative body image/body dysmorphia. This discussion was a very vulnerable one for me, and I discuss some personal things I’ve never talked about on the podcast before. Our hope with this episode was multifaceted: 1) we want to bring body image issues more into the open, 2) we want people to learn how to eat in order to avoid common emotional eating pitfalls, and 3) we want people to start re-thinking the “optimal body type” for climbers, and realize that extreme leanness is not the end all be all of climbing hard. It’s also incredibly important to be healthy and happy. Lastly, if you believe you have an eating disorder or are suffering with disordered eating behaviors, we encourage you to seek help. Whether that’s from a therapist, a nutritionist, a doctor, or all three, there are many resources out there for you. I did an interview with Kate Bennett, who is a therapist who specializes in eating disorders among athletes and she sees clients remotely. Alyssa is also currently taking clients remotely. Interview Details
A little about me that you might not know… After completing my Bachelor’s degree in both Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I completed a 4-year holistic nutrition program called Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During my education, I learned about not only nutrition, but Western and Chinese herbs, homeopathy, the psychology of eating, and other alternative practices. I started practicing nutrition with private clients in 2007, and I’ve been working exclusively with climbers since 2015 to help them optimize their energy levels, body composition, climbing performance, and overall well-being. I was heavily involved in the Paleo nutrition community for a few years, and I was recruited to write The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Eating Paleo, which was published in 2012. I’ve led nutrition seminars online, taught at Bauman College (a certificate program for nutrition), and taught several community classes in person. I’ve been a panelist at several conferences and festivals, including the International Climbers’ Festival in 2017-2019, and PaleoFX. I’m also an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminars with Steve Bechtel et al, and I travel around the country with them to teach people about nutrition for climbers. Outside of my nutrition life, I’m the owner of TrainingBeta.com and the host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. I live in Longmont, Colorado with my husband and co-founder of TrainingBeta, Seth, and our dog, Zala. I’ve been sport climbing for 20+ years and I’ve worked with my diet extensively to figure out proper fueling and recovery for optimal climbing performance–a lifelong pursuit. For more info about who I am as a climber and a person, check out my personal bio. About Alyssa Neill, RDNFrom Alyssa’s website… In addition to her Didactic Program & Nutrition Science degree from the University of Rhode Island, Alyssa completed her 1300 hour Dietetic Internship at the nation’s leading school for natural medicine and whole-food nutrition, Bastyr University, in Washington. She has over seven years of personal and professional experience with holistic nutrition, weight loss, fat loss, women’s health, hormone balance with diet, diet and lifestyle modifications, and supplement support. In addition to NourishMEnt Nutrition, she has worked as a Practitioner at Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy, in the supplement industry, as a Private Chef, in hospitals, in Naturopathic clinics and as a Detoxification / Biotransformation researcher at High Tech Health International, Inc. She also hosts and teaches at Womxn’s Retreats, Womxn’s Circles & gatherings. She loves cooking and creating, and so she occasionally private chefs for retreats. She leads rituals, guided meditation, writes for Climbing Magazine and for Gnarly Nutrition. She is also a sport climber and a boulderer, and she works with climbers as well as all kinds of nutrition clients. For more info about Alyssa or to work with her as a client, visit her website at www.nourishmentnutrition.com. Links
Alyssa Neill
Use code: summer at checkout for 25% off all training programs from July 15-July 21, 2020.
NOT APPLICABLE for Remote Coaching with Matt Pincus or Sport Psychology Sessions with Dr. Chris. | |||
| TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long Break | 16 Jun 2020 | 00:50:20 | |
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals. | |||
| TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers | 02 Jun 2020 | 00:58:11 | |
In this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times. | |||
| TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond | 04 May 2020 | 01:21:42 | |
I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond. | |||
| TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home | 09 Apr 2020 | 01:18:12 | |
In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic. | |||
| TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19 | 24 Mar 2020 | 01:26:15 | |
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do. | |||
| TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers | 12 Mar 2020 | 01:17:53 | |
Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training. | |||
| TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training | 26 Feb 2020 | 01:21:30 | |
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing. | |||
| TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely | 06 Feb 2020 | 01:17:59 | |
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn. | |||
| TBP 259: Sleep Researcher Aric Prather's Tips to Sleep Better and Longer | 08 May 2024 | 01:14:48 | |
Author, psychologist, researcher, and clinician Aric Prather, PhD talks about the practical advice he wrote about in his book The Sleep Prescription: 7 Days to Your Best Rest and the work he does in his sleep clinic. In this interview he offers clear steps to help you sleep better so you can feel more recovered, energetic, and calm in life and in climbing.
There’s some bonus content from this episode on Patreon.
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page. Help support the show and get nutrition and mindset coaching on Patreon. | |||
| TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing | 22 Jan 2020 | 01:19:47 | |
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing. | |||
| TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers | 15 Jan 2020 | 01:11:32 | |
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics. | |||
| TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills | 18 Dec 2019 | 01:04:57 | |
Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength. | |||
| TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods | 05 Dec 2019 | 01:15:27 | |
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams. | |||
| Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues | 27 Nov 2019 | 01:08:06 | |
Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with. | |||
| TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing | 22 Nov 2019 | 01:14:34 | |
I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients. | |||
| TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus | 30 Oct 2019 | 01:40:00 | |
Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing. | |||
| TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother | 24 Oct 2019 | 01:20:26 | |
Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood. | |||
| TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting | 17 Oct 2019 | 01:09:45 | |
I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly. | |||
| TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson | 02 Oct 2019 | 01:07:38 | |
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys. | |||
| TBP 258: Training and Climbing for People with Full-Time Jobs | 01 May 2024 | 01:22:57 | |
I talked with coaches Alex Stiger and Matt Pincus about how they coach their clients to make the best use of their time outside of work to train and climb. And I talk about how to eat well throughout every day to fuel yourself for climbing and training, regardless of what your busy schedule looks like. We looked at three case studies:
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about:
| |||
| TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello | 09 Sep 2019 | 01:22:42 | |
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training. | |||
| TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More | 23 Aug 2019 | 01:10:25 | |
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently. | |||
| TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries | 12 Aug 2019 | 01:22:43 | |
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers. | |||