Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing.

Watch the film.

Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen Producer Monika McClure Additional Photography Owen Bissell, Spenser Tang-Smith Color Royal Muster/Greg Reese Graphics Ben Blanchard Sound Design and Mix David Fitzgerald

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

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Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi, and then discuss the film itself, as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. 

Three years ago, Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, filmed, and edited by Gilles Charlier.

Watch the film.

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right?

Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time.

Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this trap. Or if you’re in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range...

Read the rest on the blog!

Watch the video on YouTube!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing

Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

Marina Inoue | Does Size Matter?

Applied Body Tension Ebook

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Whether a Moon Board, Tension Board, Grasshopper, Kilter, or any of the other number of boards making their way into climbing gyms or homes worldwide, there are certainly ways to get more out of them. Assuming you have other options for training and climbing, there are also many things the boards don't do so well. 

In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the ups and downs of board climbing, including a collection of drills we've made specifically for the boards. 

Check out our Proven Plans.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The Climbing Initiative is a nonprofit supporting the sustainable and equitable growth of climbing worldwide. It began in 2019 as a research project at Yale University documenting the international expansion of climbing and its economic, social, and environmental effects. Now the group advises climbing organizations, spreads best practices, and works directly with climbing communities around the world to help them flourish.

Today I sit down with Executive Director Veronica Baker to discuss the mission of The Climbing Initiative (TCI) and the challenges they - and we as the global climbing community - face. 

We also discuss their Best Practices project - a collection of living documents that is gathering the voices of climbing leaders around the world to shape the future development of our sport.

As climbing grows, it is having incredible economic, social, and environmental impacts. Climbers are creating new hotspots for ecotourism, building tight-knit communities, advocating for the conservation of natural areas, and using climbing to uplift and inspire.

In their work partnering with local climbing communities, they’ve connected with many climbing leaders paving the way with innovative approaches. As a result, the Best Practices are focused on six main areas:

• crag development & maintenance

• environmental conservation

• equity & inclusivity

• community engagement

• economic impact

• building climbing organizations

Support The Climbing Initiative.

Check out the Best Practices.

Watch the Access Fund videos we mention in the episode.

Find TCI on Instagram.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with my friend Lauren Abernathy, who you might recognize from Good Spray Coaching. We first discuss the change from being a weekend warrior to being in the midst of her first trip specifically for a big, ambitious project as a full time coach who can climb when she wants to. We also get into the challenges of being a female coach - having your expertise questioned and dealing with the abundance of mostly male internet idiots. 

You can find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing.

Follow her on Instagram.

From now until the end of December, use the code GOODSPRAY to get 20% off of any of her self-guided programs you'll find HERE.

NEW PLUGTONE PODCAST ALERT! 

Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday Dec. 8th!

We are happy to welcome Switchback: An Outdoor Community Podcast hosted by Kelsee Keitel, a licensed educator and outdoor based mental health counselor. You can listen to a short episode that I really enjoyed, Curiosity Killed the Criticism, on Spotify or on Apple Podcasts.

And in this very episode we announce a brand new podcast we have in development! Go listen!

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Introducing a new podcast brought to you by Power Company Climbing, Crux Conditioning, and Plug Tone Audio: Breaking Beta!

Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers?

That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you.

In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into its components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us.

Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong.

Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him.

Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning.

Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram.

Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram.

Get transcripts, citations, and more at our site.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dear Alex,

Congrats on 100 V10's! 

Follow Alex on Instagram.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Andy Leung is the head setter of Climb Time Cincinnati - a community that is near and dear to my heart. In this episode we discuss not only the career of routesetting, but also what it means to both the setter and the community, how it can help us all grow, and what to keep in mind in order to keep moving forward. 

Follow Andy on Instagram.

Learn more about Climb Time.

You can find the Breaking Beta Podcast on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Kris and Nate discuss their individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see sport climbers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Kris and Nate discuss their individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see boulderers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session.

Watch The Worst Punt of all Time video.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

How do we get better at climbing? That's a question we ask, and are asked, ALL THE TIME. One of the best answers is certainly something along the lines of, "Be very intentional about challenging yourself while climbing as many things as you can."

A bit simplistic, but it works. 

Kerry Scott embodies this. From her goal to climb 100 new boulders in a year from V3 to V11, to doing her hardest boulders, to her recent send of Mango Tango (14a) in the New River Gorge on a week long trip, Kerry gets after it. Consistently. 

Check out Kerry's 100 Boulders Diamond.

Follow Kerry on Instagram.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Juliet Hammer is a straight up crusher, with over 30 double digit boulders under her belt. Still, she isn't immune to the dark side of the internet. The side which so regularly has to push their "expertise" on grades and climbing. Many of these people are too incompetent to understand how incompetent they are - the Dunning-Kruger Effect. And their comments can be harmful to not only the original poster, but anyone who reads them.

In this episode, Juliet and I unpack a recent reel she posted to Instagram, of a V10 gym boulder, that brought the trolls out. 

Watch the reel we discuss in the episode.

Follow Juliet on Instagram.

Check out Juliet's website.

Check out these other episodes we mention:

• Caroline Wickes | Eating Disorders in Climbing
• Kerry Scott | Pride or Spray?

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:

Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020.

They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.

This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022.

____________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast

____________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

____________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

____________________

📚CHAPTERS

(00:00) Notes From Kris

(3:11) Introduction

(6:48) Methods

(15:37) Results and Our Thoughts

(27:37) What Should Come Next?

(34:34) Wrap Up

(39:28) Credits and Theme

Doing the work in a social media world can take its toll. Today, good friends Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Devin Dabney discuss the hammers they wield, the way they interact with the work they do in public, and what that might mean for their well-being.

Learn more about Climb L8.

Follow Briana on Instagram.

Learn more about The American Climbing Project.

Follow Devin on Instagram.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Hueco Tanks State Park, just outside of El Paso, Texas, is one of the world’s premier bouldering destinations, and for good reason. An oasis (literally) in the middle of the desert, Hueco houses every type of boulder you can imagine. You’ll find classics of every style, from techy slab to featured roof, and enough “party trick” boulders to keep you busy for damned near ever. 

Learn more about for training to climb in Hueco Tanks at the blog post for this episode.

Check out our Applied Body Tension Ebook.

Check out Fingers+ and all of our bouldering training plans in our Proven Plans.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In July of 2020 we released an episode with Devin Dabney in which we discussed a podcast idea he’d been mulling over for quite some time. A podcast that would look at social issues within the climbing community from a variety of perspectives. Much of the feedback around that episode was that people wanted to hear more from Devin. He needed to do that podcast.

Fast forward a little over a year, and The American Climbing Project has just dropped Episode 3: Now That’s What I Call Racism.

Devin is one of the most thoughtful humans I know. Not to mention WILDLY creative. It’s been my absolute pleasure to give advice where needed and get a front row seat to watch him grow. Plus, I get to collaborate with him regularly, which pretty much means I’m winning.

If you haven’t listed to The American Climbing Project, go do it. If you haven’t read their blog, then DEFINITELY go do that. It’s an educational treasure trove. Devin and Rob do a spectacular job of teaming up to make something really special. Something this community needs.

Learn more about The American Climbing Project.

Follow ACP on Instagram.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This summer I had a dinner at my house with a group of folks who I have immense respect for. Like-minded climbers who are interested in both exploring their own personal limits and pushing the community to be better. After the dinner, I heard the same feedback from nearly every person: that conversations with Lor were the highlight of the night. Lor is a climber who leans into every style in a really intentional effort to improve. They are a Warrior's Way coach who has the incredible ability to listen, empathize, and ask you very kind questions that introduce you to the precise first step you need to take. That might be an actionable first step, or it might be a thought or emotion you’ll have to grapple with, but it will lead you in the right direction.

Because of this, I decided to (very selfishly) turn this episode into, essentially, a private coaching session. 

I’ve recently been leaning into my fears of tall boulders and trying to document my process. I asked Lor to watch a video I had made about a recent scary project, a V10 called Flight of the Antelope, and give me feedback on my process. They delivered with an absolute gift of a conversation. Climbing better isn’t about just getting physically stronger. It’s about confronting whatever obstacles you find in front of you. Dancing with them instead of fighting. Better understanding your own motivations, and not taking the easier path just because it’s easier. Lor has written for us before about Finding Joy in Improbable Goals - an article that inspired me to lean harder into the things that scare me. They are the subject of a brilliant documentary film from Patagonia called They/Them that will be released on October 6th. 30 seconds into watching the film I said, out loud, “Fuck, I know exactly how that feels.” Lor has dealt with all of the same fear that you have. They have leaned into it, and emerged a better teacher for it. This film does a fantastic job of highlighting this incredible human. Work with Lor at The Warrior's Way.

Watch the video we discuss in the episode.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode Kris is in the hot seat, and Luke Mehall takes over the interview duties. They discuss entrepreneurship, hiphop, climbing, and how creativity filters down through all of it. 

This episode aired previously on the Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast, found wherever you consume pods. 

You can find Luke, the zine, and the podcast at The Climbing Zine.

Follow them on Instagram.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In an Instagram post announcing that he had accepted the head coach position at The Climbing Academy, Kyle O’Meara wrote:

“I love the way we each find our own path in this sport. Some of us crave higher performance and chase the next level forever. Others seek an adventure where discovery and creativity are the primary focus. Most fall somewhere in the middle. We can ALL go further and bigger no matter what end goal inspires our personal pursuit, and if we’re enjoying the process, appreciating the journey, and smiling lots along the way, then that probably counts as ‘winning’.”

Climbing is an individual thing. What drives me may not be the same thing that drives you, and that’s ok.

While mentorship is – on its surface – a noble pursuit, it can often go wrong. Mentors are human and are just as prone as the rest of us to overvalue their own selfish ideas, and then pass them on to the next generation without much thought toward necessary change or evolution of those ideas.

Personally, I admire most the mentors and thinkers who work hard to directly engage with this unavoidable evolution. The ones who simultaneously continue their own growth. That interaction, even more than advancing the grades we climb, is what allows progress to happen and continue.

Mentorship isn’t dead. We just need more mentors like Kyle.

Follow Kyle on Instagram.

Get tickets for the Joe's Valley Festival.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Smith Rock, about 30 minutes outside of Bend, Oregon, is a destination that should be on every sport climber's list of places to visit. It’s the birthplace of American sport climbing and home of the first 5.14 in the country, To Bolt or Not To Be. Beside that, our guest on this What When How to Train episode, local Justin Brown, claims that it’s the best example of this technical, old school style in THE WORLD.

That’s a big claim, but Justin, owner of Rhino Skin Solutions, stands by it. Littered with small edges, pockets, and horrible feet, most routes at Smith provide options for all sizes of climber to find their way through the devious technical sequences.

Find Justin, and all the skin care products a climber could need, at Rhino Skin Solutions.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Stefano Ghisolfi recently made the 2nd ascent of Bibliographie, a proposed 15d (9c) first done by Alex Megos in Ceuse, France. This would have made Stefano only the 3rd person to climb the grade - behind the two climbers widely considered as the best in the world. But Stefano chose to say that the route isn’t 15d after all, but 15c (9b+). Why?

In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss grades, downgrading, egos, pressure, and how these two climbers handled the situation in an incredibly mature, progressive way. But is it the best way? Does it matter?

These are exactly the kinds of conversations our Patrons get more of. 2 extra episodes every month. You can become a Patron at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this Board Meeting, Kris and Nate sit down to discuss the many pieces of advice that, when actually looked at, make no real sense, but simultaneously make all of the sense in the world. It's easy to ignore catch phrases and cliches, but if this episode helps you stop and think the next time you hear one - and as a result you actually change your behavior accordingly - WIN. 

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

A quick look at Cody Kaemmerlen’s Linked In profile reveals this bio: Lives by simple beliefs; advocate for the underrepresented and oppressed, use your privilege with honor and be aggressively kind.

More than anyone I’ve ever met, Cody lives by these words. He’s a passionate advocate for what he believes in - somehow without coming off as pushy - and as soon as I saw him announced as Director for The American Alpine Club’s new Climb United initiative, I knew I wanted to talk to him. His position seems impossible, but if there’s anyone who I believe can find and hold onto the hope and possibility within it, it’s Cody. 

Learn more about the Climb United initiative.

Watch the Route Name Open Forum.

Follow Cody on Instagram.

Learn more about Wilder Mind.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impacts from that “letting go” in this episode.

Every Body Climbs (EBC) is a collaborative podcast, presented across Plug Tone Audio platforms, bringing you interviews with para and adaptive climbers. These profiles can be heard on The Power Company Podcast and Sends and Suffers. Content about festivals, engagement projects and other modes of community building air on Sends and Suffers, while training and nutrition focused interviews can be heard on The Power Company Podcast. Host, Emily Chen-Newton is a freelance adaptive sports reporter working in both print and broadcast. Living with a chronic medical condition herself, her journalism centers athletes, not their disabilities. When she’s not reporting, she’s rock climbing with her husband and their two cats.

Follow Emily and EBC on:

Instagram

SoundCloud

Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

More episodes of Every Body Climbs

More episodes of Sends and Suffers

Maureen Beck | Adapting

Justin Salas | Nonsighting

REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we've got a special teaser for Episode 2 of Devin Dabney's American Climbing Project - The Great Equalizer. Listen to this and then go listen to Episode 1!

Learn more about the The American Climbing Project

Follow ACP on Instagram

Support them at https://www.americanclimbingproject.com/support

The Power Company Podcast and The American Climbing Project are both productions of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Climbing has never been a purely physical pursuit. Even if that is the initial draw, climbing has a way of pulling your mental and emotional states in, utilizing and amplifying them, and ultimately, if you arrive with awareness, helping you understand those states better. All while we get to try as absolutely hard as we want to. Beautiful.

In this episode, I sit down with Blake Cason and discuss the intersection of our climbing and the rest of our lives, and how our habits and lifestyle off the wall can affect our performance on the wall.

Blake is a climber and great conversationalist who holds a Master’s degree in Health Behavior and Education, is founder of Pivot Wellness, where she is available for Integrative Wellness and Life Coaching, and an expert in habit setting.

Blake is also one of the founders of ClimbWell, a retreat dedicated to the intersection of rock climbing, wellness, and intentional life design.

Learn more about ClimbWell

Learn more about Pivot Wellness

Follow Blake on Instagram

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Nate and I are joined by NRG local Jeremy Rush to discuss the ins and outs of preparing for a trip to what might just be the best sport climbing area in the country: West Virginia's New River Gorge. 

You can find the most up to date access info at NRAC.

Check out Water Stone Outdoors.

Learn more about training for the NRG at this episode's blog post.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Our guest today is THE Canadian event MC: Pete Woods. He's a coach, long-time MC of comps in Canada, and recently made his broadcast debut with the IFSC for the Salt Lake World Cups alongside Meagan Martin.

Follow Pete on Instagram

Read the article Pete mentions from Gripped.

See Pete's follow up with Plastic Weekly.

You can find his podcast Beyond The Walls on Apple Podcasts and Spotify

_______________

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

BONUS EPISODE! This episode comes from our Patrons Only We Scream Like Eagles podcast.

We've released this episode into the wild because we wanted to give you a taste of the extras we deliver to the Patrons.

You can become a patron at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast

You can find Nate's blogpost on this topic at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/walk-away

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This is the first episode of a new series that digs into the details of what, when, and how to train for some of the most popular climbing destinations in the US and beyond. For our first episode of the series it only makes sense to start with the Red River Gorge. 

Find lots more tips for training for the Red at this episode's blog post.

Got a trip to the Red planned?  Check out our RRG Trip Prep Plans!

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This episode is a panel recorded live at the International Climbers' Festival a few summers ago in Lander, Wyoming, featuring Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello from Climb Strong, and Neely Quinn and Matt Pincus from TrainingBeta.

You can find tickets for this year's ICF at www.climbersfestival.org

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Thanks for sticking through this with us and for supporting this thing! As a bonus, today I sit down with the book's illustrator Brendan Leonard to talk about his perspectives and why this collaboration worked so well. 

You can find Brendan online at Semi-Rad Media.

Follow Brendan on Instagram.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lee Smith has taught more people the importance of dedication than he can possibly know. In this episode, the only one that I actually assigned to someone, I get to sit down with Lee to debrief about one of my proudest sends as well as one of his hardest fought - and still fighting - battles.

Follow Lee on Instagram.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Our dear friend Mario Stanley, host of the Sends and Suffers podcast, joins me to talk about the one piece that is often missing: bigger goals and bigger efforts. 

Find Mario online at www.mariostanley.com

Follow Mario on Instagram.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a.  They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more.  This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part!

Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show.

Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram.

Get more content on The Struggle's Patreon.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

Book a Remote Consultation with Nate

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Our very own coach Paul Corsaro joins us to discuss a trap that pretty much every one of us will eventually (or regularly) fall into: confirmation bias. Do you look for ways to prove your hypothesis? Or do you seek out the reasons it might be false?

Follow Paul on Instagram.

If you're in the Chattanooga area, check out Paul's gym, Crux Conditioning.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Brittany returns to discuss an essay that I wrote while re-examining my role as a coach/mentor/leader. Inevitably, when you help people succeed, egos will inflate. Is there a way around that?

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lauren and Nate join me to discuss the importance of seeing the process through - an element often forgotten when talking about the importance of the process. 

You can find Lauren at Good Spray Climbing.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ryley returns to discuss one of my favorite topics. As climbers, we often end up chasing success... but is there a better way?

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Briana returns to discuss everyone's favorite topic: grades. There is precious little logic in the usual discussion around grades - it ends up being mostly emotion. We do our best to inject a little logic.

Follow Briana on Instagram.

Learn more about Climb L8.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

I met Al and Ziggy at a bouldering workshop on our Oz Tour in 2019, and was immediately taken by their excitement for improving at climbing, and by how much they dug into the concepts I was teaching that night. In this episode we discuss how to keep things in perspective when your days aren't dominated by climbing, and the importance of partners who help you keep those few days moving forward. 

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Sydney Smith is not only an excellent community builder, but she's also someone who thinks and reflects deeply on her own climbing. In this episode we discuss one of the toughest things for any athlete - hell, any person - to deal with: ego, particularly when intimidated.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ryley Rush LOVES climbing. Her genuine joy for it is palpable, and makes it even more interesting to explore what's happening when things feel harder than expected. Ryley and I discuss the struggles of getting outside enough to be comfortable there, and how important partners who care can be. 

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dale Wilson is our data analyst, coach, and resident meme curator. His wider view of data and how to best use it is MASSIVELY important for us. In this episode we discuss how easy it is to get sucked into continuing training your strengths, and end up completely blind to your biggest deficiencies. 

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We are incredibly lucky to have Jess on our coaching team. She brings a wealth of knowledge, a background in many areas of training and performance, and she's the coolest. In this episode we discuss the differences between working out and training - and why working out might be just fine for you. 

Follow Jess on Instagram.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing.  He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises federations and works with athletes and coaches all over the world.

In this episode, we discuss his ideas around motor learning and coaching movement, whether a coach needs to be as good as the athlete, how he assesses climbers, what makes Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki special, and what makes the Japanese team so good.

Find Udo online at udini.com and on YouTube.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Performance Rock Climbing by Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard

Episode 482: The Coaching Eye - How Reliably Can Expert Coaches Observe Movement? | The Perception & Action Podcast

Cognitive Bias Codex Infographic from Visual Capitalist

Coaching for Mastery Course

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro and Guest Introduction

(3:09) Have We Overemphasized the Physical?

(7:26) Udo’s Transition to the Ecological Approach to Coaching

(8:42) ANNOTATION: Bernstein, Degrees of Freedom, Repetition Without Repetition

(14:54) Deliberate Play

(29:32) The Athlete Doesn’t Need All of the Information

(32:33) Does a Coach Need to Be Better Than the Climber?

(34:57) Technique vs. Skill

(40:02) Open and Closed Skills

(40:52) ANNOTATION: Open and Closed Skill Continuums

(45:51) Adaptability and Biases in Climbing

(51:07) ANNOTATION: Marshmallow Test and Delayed Gratification

(56:40) What Makes Janja Garnbret So Good?

(59:20) Rhythm and Patience

(1:02:01) How Does Udo Assess Movement Skills?

(1:09:09) How Often Should We Give Explicit Instruction?

(1:16:29) Using Video in Coaching

(1:28:34) Are Comp Boulders Useful for Outdoor Climbers?

(1:32:40) What’s the Secret of the Japanese Team and Tomoa Narasaki?

(1:42:07) Wrap Up

Briana sets big goals and chips away at them - including climbing, social justice, and community building. In this episode we discuss how it easy it is to get off track, and what might help keep you on.

Follow Briana on Instagram.

Learn more about Climb L8.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Tom and Amanda are two of Australia's best climbers, and hosts of a great podcast, Baffle Days. We did some time zone wrangling to talk about one of Tom's super powers - the art of the punt.

Check out Tom and Amanda's podcast and shop. Check out Thrive.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Sarah and Taylor are back to discuss one of the most important - and overlooked - aspects of becoming a better climber - trying HARD.

Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.

We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.

The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.