Explore every episode of the podcast The Nugget Climbing Podcast
| Title | Pub. Date | Duration | |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain | 27 Aug 2024 | 02:00:08 | |
Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more. Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut Videos Become a Patron: Rhino Skin Solutions: Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! KAYA: Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! PhysiVantage: physivantage.com/discount/NUG20 Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein! Crimpd: Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-fruge Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave (00:04:05) – Overview (00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background (00:10:21) – Confidence (00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing (00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing (00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers (00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid (00:27:13) – Radiculopathy (00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine (00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine (00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle (00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine (00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference (00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues (01:01:15) – Finding a provider (01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain (01:09:08) – The bucket analogy (01:10:23) – Pain is protective (01:11:37) – Stress & mindset (01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right (01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy (01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences (01:29:26) – Another client success story (01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle (01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket (01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts (01:51:20) – Be more like a dog (01:54:42) – Wrap up | |||
| EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board | 19 Aug 2024 | 01:02:37 | |
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes: thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard design. Revival Climbing Coalition: EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Crimpd: Or download the Crimpd app. Chalk Cartel: Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order. BetterHelp: Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience (00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly) (00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power (00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you) (00:11:39) – Example board session formats (00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session (00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves) (00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules (00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard (00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time (00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching (00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2) (00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing (00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) (00:39:03) – More love for the TB2 (00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously (00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs (00:49:04) – Benchmark rants (00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast (00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing (00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing (00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot (00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things (00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength (01:00:38) – Wrap up | |||
| EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’ | 24 Jun 2024 | 02:36:12 | |
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method. Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Tindeq! Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background (00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety (00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes (00:14:55) – Defining “technique” (00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient” (00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence (00:26:22) – Our three batteries (00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate (00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique (00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop (01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop (01:11:44) – Structuring practice (01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop (01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture (01:19:17) – Getting into the moment (01:21:00) – Three questions (01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling (01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique (01:35:47) – Sending things faster (01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats (01:50:43) – Board climbers (01:54:06) – Watching & noticing (01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’ (02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal (02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing (02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets (02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser | |||
| Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser) | 02 Feb 2023 | 00:40:24 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:53:31. *Watch the uncut video interview here! Aidan’s Original Episode: EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022) | |||
| Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle! | 01 Feb 2023 | 00:05:29 | |
The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions! Check out The Nugget on YouTube: | |||
| EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip | 30 Jan 2023 | 00:54:50 | |
Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode:
Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:22) – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017 (00:11:12) – Top out views (00:12:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads (00:16:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible (00:20:21) – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training (00:22:51) – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day) (00:24:56) – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”) (00:25:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!) (00:30:01) – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders (00:32:41) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders) (00:35:01) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff (00:36:28) – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try (00:36:49) – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!) (00:39:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1 (00:40:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have) (00:41:46) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing (00:42:59) – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day) (00:44:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have (00:46:45) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect (00:48:02) – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade (00:48:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety (00:52:40) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics (00:53:23) – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you | |||
| EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus | 23 Jan 2023 | 03:39:28 | |
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef! Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery (00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery (00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury (00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta (00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression (00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.” (00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A! (00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients (00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients (00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers (00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action (00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training (01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts (01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower (01:21:00) – Limbic friction (01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam” (01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing (01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers (01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home (01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds? (01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do (01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day (01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement (02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery (02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body (02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low (02:08:23) – Staying on the bus (02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period (02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar (02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength (02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is…. (02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing (02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer (02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter (02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life (02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie (02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance (02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.” (03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering (03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.” (03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c) (03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP (03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing (03:31:53) – Take action on something (03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team (03:36:42) – Wrap up | |||
| Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser) | 19 Jan 2023 | 00:44:05 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36. *Watch the uncut video interview here! Jordan’s Original Episode: EP 115: Jordan Cannon (April 18, 2022) | |||
| EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip | 16 Jan 2023 | 01:01:27 | |
Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to. Listen to more Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse’s Original Episode:
Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1 Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:53) – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA (00:06:28) – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips (00:09:11) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early (00:12:11) – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day (00:13:58) – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips (00:17:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open (00:21:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things (00:23:47) – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are (00:24:10) – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff (00:25:51) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing (00:27:24) – Try to avoid survival mode (00:29:09) – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends (00:31:28) – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list) (00:34:12) – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip (00:37:34) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good (00:39:11) – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area (00:41:55) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested) (00:45:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb (00:46:07) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much (00:47:21) – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing (00:49:01) – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward (00:52:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin (00:54:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right (00:57:52) – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip (00:58:57) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip (00:59:37) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open (01:00:31) – Wrap up | |||
| Announcing Fundamentals! | 16 Jan 2023 | 00:05:05 | |
Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon! Listen to Fundamentals episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals Jesse's Original Episode: | |||
| EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real | 09 Jan 2023 | 03:12:23 | |
Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnutt Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:08:20) – Anna’s childhood room (00:10:00) – Plans for Austria (00:11:21) – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast (00:12:50) – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus (00:14:35) – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?) (00:17:39) – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget (00:19:41) – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche (00:24:40) – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side (00:28:57) – Balancing intensity and comedy (00:30:10) – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still (00:33:30) – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK (00:35:53) – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall (00:39:29) – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E9 (00:41:33) – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab (00:45:38) – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters (00:50:14) – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E9 (00:55:32) – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests (01:01:01) – Some context about the 9c test (01:02:53) – Toe training! (01:07:11) – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility (01:09:15) – Leaning into our superpowers (01:14:53) – Anna’s dreamboard, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style (01:19:30) – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house (01:24:09) – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them (01:28:45) – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits (01:31:23) – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged (01:38:04) – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more) (01:41:20) – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on (01:43:19) – Shoulder exercises for slab (01:44:12) – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs? (01:46:59) – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d) (01:52:54) – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like? (01:58:52) – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from? (02:02:55) – Anna’s sensitivity (02:04:14) – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet (02:09:31) – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page (02:16:14) – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym (02:21:18) – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym? (02:23:31) – Anna’s thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion (02:28:27) – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting (02:31:32) – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted and don’t assume (02:35:45) – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience (02:39:17) – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes (02:41:34) – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English (02:42:32) – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos (02:47:07) – Giving others permission (02:49:28) – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing (02:51:01) – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube channel (02:52:59) – Anna’s sources of income (02:54:54) – Being a hand model for a Sofie Tucker music video (02:56:41) – The difference between YouTube and podcasts (03:00:35) – Final question from Ethan: Does Anna have specific goals that are lifetime achievement goals? (03:06:43) – Empathy (03:09:20) – Wrap up | |||
| Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser) | 04 Jan 2023 | 00:26:00 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15. Tyler’s Other Episodes: EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021) Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022) | |||
| EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work | 02 Jan 2023 | 01:14:49 | |
Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way. Check out The Climbing Zine! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/luke-mehall Nuggets: 0:05:18 – What Luke learned from Tim (the owner of Zia Taqueria) about business 0:10:48 – Why Luke started The Climbing Zine 0:13:11 – What characterizes a zine? 0:17:59 – The theme that connects all of the stories Luke chooses for The Climbing Zine 0:20:43 – Finding authors and stories, and why Luke almost never assigns stories/topics 0:22:46 – How climbing gave Luke his life and saved him from substance abuse and depression 0:26:37 – Why you can’t rely just on climbing for your happiness 0:27:55 – Sharing vulnerable stories that others can relate to 0:29:26 – Luke’s vision for his brand, and how he hopes to share his personal story through film 0:34:53 – How to protect the thing you love when your creative work becomes your job 0:38:57 – How Luke uses therapy to talk about his goals, and having a hype man 0:42:13 – Steven’s origin story with The Nugget, and what I am trying to do by sharing people’s stories 0:50:15 – What all of these interviews have brought to my life 0:55:01 – The most challenging parts of building The Nugget into a sustainable business 1:02:19 – Desiring routine and seasons 1:04:27 – My favorite podcasting moments 1:08:19 – Sustaining the effort, paying it forward, and closing thoughts from both me and Luke | |||
| EP 225: Steven Gets His Dream Home Wall! | ft. Tony Bell and David Bress, Founders of Revival Climbing Coalition | 20 Jun 2024 | 01:15:42 | |
In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more! Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls: revivalclimbing.com/adjustable-climbing-wall Revival’s Landing Systems: revivalclimbing.com/custom-mats revivalclimbing.com/standard-mats Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/revival-climbing-coalition Nuggets: 00:00:00 – Intro 00:01:45 – Breakfast banter 00:04:06 – David’s background 00:09:06 – Mount Moran 00:13:09 – Tony’s background 00:16:24 – Getting into the climbing wall industry 00:21:09 – The birth of Revival Climbing Coalition 00:25:00 – What sets Revival apart 00:33:01 – The cost of the wall 00:36:45 – The board 00:39:10 – Turkeys 00:40:25 – Bootstrapping and outsourcing 00:45:12 – Biggest surprises 00:47:37 – What sets their board apart 00:52:49 – Engineered lumber 00:56:38 – Sustainability 01:00:36 – Ease of installation 01:02:38 – Gym partners and shipping 01:04:40 – The future of Revival 01:08:45 – More about landing systems 01:09:50 – What’s next for Revival 01:13:31 – Wrap up | |||
| EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out | 26 Dec 2022 | 01:54:27 | |
New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more. *This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :)
Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: | |||
| EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra | 19 Dec 2022 | 02:26:01 | |
I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you’ve ever done?” Firstly, I don’t have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy! *This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020. Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack’ in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing.
Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts-repost Nuggets: 0:09:16 – The evolution of dirtbagging, early road life, Smith as a safe zone, “there were no routes” 0:14:07 – Eating every other day 0:26:47 – Abstainers vs moderators 0:31:02 – Bill Ramsey, UO, and climbing “every variation imaginable” at the Columns 0:36:03 – Connecting with the people you need 0:38:40 – Inferiority complex and pushing to improve 0:40:04 – A paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to climbing faces 0:46:11 – Stumbling upon sport climbing and going from being a decent climber to a really good climber 0:48:29 – Redpoint tactics, ethics, and borrowing from the Europeans 0:52:39 – ‘Corner No. 1’, how ‘Chain Reaction’ got its name, and reaching the world standard at Smith Rock 0:54:28 – 11b to 13d in six years, ‘Punks in the Gym’, and pushing world standards 0:55:44 – Meeting Heinz Zak and Wolfgang’s t-shirt 0:58:52 – Pioneering Smith Rock film by Hydro Flask, and going back to the summer of ’85, and ‘East Face Crack’ 5.13d 1:04:01 – Other hard crack climbs and ‘Double Stain’ 1:05:25 – 7 days prepping ‘Sunshine Wall’ and the story of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’ 1:11:34 – Climbing every day, injuries, and killing the goose that laid the golden eggs 1:22:15 – Hip surgery and meeting Adam Ondra 1:31:00 – Adam’s post about meeting Alan, and Adam’s onsight of ‘Just Do It’ 5.14c 1:36:52 – Adam’s photo book (Alan-“What the hell? How did I make the cut?”) 1:38:17 – The Awl project, “I do not want to FAIL!” 1:40:44 – Bolting futuristic projects, thinking anything was possible, and bolting ‘Just Do It’ for a TV show in 1989 1:48:23 – “I used to visualize before that was what you were supposed to do” 1:52:00 – “Fucking hard green route” 1:54:15 – Alan’s finger strength, hanging from one hand for (almost) a minute, and gym vs. outdoor climbing 2:01:18 – The updated Smith Rock guidebook 2:02:26 – Alan’s box of tights 2:05:20 – The 100 book list and projecting difficult books 2:10:27 – Working on the guidebook and connecting with the people 2:15:19 – The (lack of) ways to connect with Alan 2:17:01 – A slice of contribution in a little tiny sport 2:19:53 – “He’s cheating”, and Alan’s funny recurring dream | |||
| BONUS: Alita Contreras — Guerreras Film! | 16 Dec 2022 | 00:44:13 | |
Alita Contreras is back on the podcast! We talked about her Fall project in the Red River Gorge, the lessons that routes can teach us, and a film project that she is currently working on with her friend Elisa Varlotta called Guerreras. The film will feature Colombian women and the beautiful local climbing in Colombia. Support the Guerreras GoFundMe! Follow on Instagram! | |||
| Announcing Merch! | 15 Dec 2022 | 00:05:49 | |
Merch is here! I am SO excited about how the "hello friends" series turned out. Check out the Nugget shop for t-shirts, hoodies, and hats. All Patrons get free shipping! Buy Merch! Become a Patron and get free shipping! | |||
| EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality | 12 Dec 2022 | 02:05:48 | |
Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more. Check out So Cards! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alayna-joy Nuggets: 0:06:36 – Julio 0:09:27 – Places that feel like home 0:16:32 – Feeling like I already know Alayna from watching her channel, and parasocial relationships 0:19:37 – Sharing her story to make others feel less alone 0:21:39 – Starting her YouTube channel in high school, her first three videos, and hitting 800 subscribers 0:27:30 – Working as a server during university, and getting her first YouTube brand deal 0:31:38 – The phenomenon of being an introvert and a content creator 0:34:39 – Bisexuality, and the first time Alayna came out 0:37:54 – Being in a serious relationship with a man, and feeling disconnected from her queerness 0:42:54 – Coming out to her partner as gay, and talking herself out of it 0:46:25 – The constant little voice in her head convincing her she was happy 0:48:08 – “The big oopsie” 0:51:26 – Being afraid that she was playing into bisexual stereotypes by coming out as gay 0:54:41 – Compulsory heterosexuality (comp het), and why it took Alayna so long to realize she was gay 0:58:08 – Why Alayna thought she was demiromantic for most of her adult life 1:00:19 – Seeing the world through new eyes 1:05:16 – “I’m in therapy, and I’M TIRED!” 1:06:05 – Alayna pays me a very nice compliment, and I talk about drawing people in and hoping they learn something that goes beyond rock climbing 1:10:43 – I come out as not a lesbian, and Alayna asks everyone listening to ask themselves a question 1:12:54 – “Climbing is gay.” 1:18:36 – How climbing became an anchor for Alayna 1:21:17 – Working on her relationship with climbing 1:23:32 – Making quick progress as climbers early on, why our progress slows over time, and the magic of climbing 1:32:01 – The stories our brains tell us 1:34:36 – So Cards! (socards.org, use code NUGGET for 20% off) 1:36:29 – So Cards question 1: “If you never had to worry about money, what’s one goal that you would dedicate yourself to?” 1:40:00 – So Cards question 2: “When you were a kid, what scared you about growing up?” 1:46:05 – So Cards question 3: “What do you think people tend to take for granted in their relationships?” 1:53:14 – You’re not alone, and living your life as your most authentic self 1:56:00 – Patron question from Wren: How was your experience finding a queer community within the larger climbing community, and do you have any tips for queer climbers finding these spaces? 2:00:26 – Where to find Alayna on the internet | |||
| EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences | 05 Dec 2022 | 01:51:37 | |
Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more. Support the Access Fund! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins Nuggets: 0:05:22 – Todd’s pancake beta 0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church 0:10:40 – Cannabis 0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking 0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing 0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt 0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral, 0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years 0:33:18 – Chris Sharma’s psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid 0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present 0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago 0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks 0:48:28 – More about being present 0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days 0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents 0:59:24 – My (Steven’s) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd’s thoughts on mental tenacity 1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd’s near-death experience 1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion 1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion 1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism 1:21:00 – Aliens 1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s 1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George 1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter 1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard 1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing | |||
| Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser) | 28 Nov 2022 | 00:20:35 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:25:59. Amity’s Original Episode: | |||
| EP 145: Katie Lamb — Breaking Into V14, Embracing Micro Beta, and How Climbers Can Be Leaders in the Climate Movement | 21 Nov 2022 | 02:02:47 | |
Katie Lamb is one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her early climbing and falling in love with bouldering, climbing her first V14 and what led to her breakthrough in the last two years, projecting tips, superpowers, lifting weights, balancing training with outdoor climbing, what it will take for her to reach the next level, and working in climate data science. Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lamb Nuggets: 0:05:35 – Getting over being sick, and covid 0:09:40 – Sewing 0:14:51 – Katie’s lifted Toyota Prius 0:18:17 – Her background in sport climbing, falling in love with bouldering, and why she quit competing 0:24:05 – Katie’s progression during college from V10 to V14 0:25:12 – Katie’s climbing philosophy 0:28:12 – External pressure vs. internal motivation, and Katie’s experience on Jade V14 (8B+) 0:31:11 – The great paradox of performance climbing 0:31:59 – Katie’s first V13 (8B), Nothin But Sunshine 0:34:22 – Her summer of 2019, and adventure bouldering 0:42:37 – Katie’s accomplishments in the past two years, and what she attributes her breakthrough to 0:46:01 – Focused sessions, and diving into the nitty gritty 0:47:35 – Getting better, getting stronger, and having more time 0:50:23 – The balance of indoor training and outdoor climbing 0:51:19 – Katie’s superpowers, and growing an inch in her 20s 0:54:57 – The mechanics of crimping 0:58:58 – Patron question from Justin: How much time does Katie spend trying things that are in her style vs. outside of her style? 1:01:32 – What drives Katie to pick specific projects 1:02:10 – Injuring her finger in June of 2022, and rehabbing in Rocklands 1:08:57 – Sending Book Club V14 (8B+) less than two months after her finger injury 1:13:49 – Balancing projecting with quick ticks 1:16:41 – Why making excuses can be helpful 1:21:08 – Playing the long game with projecting, and going easy on herself 1:22:29 – How Katie is training for the next level 1:24:27 – Lifting weights 1:30:20 – The Never Ready 1:31:21 – What will it take for Katie to climb V15? 1:34:13 – Patron question from Jacob: When are we going to see a female ascent of V16? 1:37:22 – Balancing professional climbing with working in climate science, and how Katie created flexibility in her job 1:44:53 – Working in climate data science 1:47:25 – What Katie wishes more people knew about climate 1:48:40 – What we can do on an individual level to affect the climate (Katie’s answer might surprise you!) 1:50:40 – Where our electricity comes from, and the fossil fuel industry 1:53:27 – How climate change is putting our electrical grid at risk 1:54:51 – Hopeful things happening in climate 1:56:43 – How climbers can be leaders in the climate movement 1:58:28 – Wrap up | |||
| EP 144: Marisa Michael — Why Losing Weight Won’t Make You Climb Harder, How to Navigate Food, and Intuitive Eating | 15 Nov 2022 | 02:14:30 | |
Marisa Michael is a registered dietitian nutritionist with 20 years of experience who specializes in eating disorders in athletes and climbers. We talked about the characteristics of eating disorders, the line between eating for performance and disordered eating, why losing weight won’t make you climb harder, recommendations for climbers and youth athletes, intuitive eating, Marisa’s sweet tooth, and much more. Eating Disorders Helpline: nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helpline Listen to more top nutrition episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/marisa-michael Nuggets: 0:05:03 – What Marisa had for breakfast 0:07:04 – Overview of the conversation to come 0:08:37 – The difference between a registered dietitian and a nutritionist 0:11:03 – Working with athletes and disordered eating in her practice 0:12:32 – Why Marisa chose to specialize in working with athletes who struggle with disordered eating 0:15:13 – What Marisa hopes to accomplish in this episode 0:17:03 – A bit about my (Steven’s) experience with disordered eating and the biggest question I have for Marisa 0:18:44 – What distinguishes an eating disorder or disordered eating? 0:23:33 – Discipline and eating for performance vs. disordered eating… Where is the line? 0:30:13 – Personifying your eating disorder 0:31:57 – How my mindset shifted from self-care to anxiety after losing weight 0:35:27 – Discipline doesn’t have to mean ignoring your body cues 0:36:25 – What the data says about weight and climbing performance, and why we should all calm down about weight 0:38:02 – One thing that might have prevented my eating disorder if I had known them sooner 0:39:38 – BMI and finger injuries, and disordered eating in elite climbers 0:41:38 – Is weight cycling ever appropriate? 0:45:48 – Another thing I wish I had known sooner, and breaking training PRs this summer 0:49:03 – Food is fuel, and it’s also more than fuel 0:49:58 – “It depends” 0:52:03 – Intuitive Eating as a framework 0:54:11 – The 10 principles of Intuitive Eating 0:56:23 – How to navigate our modern food environment with Intuitive Eating (so you don’t eat Oreos for breakfast) 1:01:41 – Marisa’s sweet tooth and she navigates it 1:04:52 – Is it ok to celebrate with food after a send? 1:06:35 – Marisa’s thoughts on “moderators” and “abstainers”, and the plate of cookies example 1:11:57 – How restricting leads to bingeing 1:17:04 – Marisa’s general eating recommendations, and recommended macros for climbers 1:20:17 – Food timing 1:22:03 – Intermittent fasting: yay or nay? 1:23:45 – Patron question from Karl: How do you navigate intuitive eating if you don’t get hungry? 1:25:15 – How to calculate your daily energy needs 1:27:19 – Patron question from Shawn: How do we get enough protein in a healthy way? 1:29:10 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating meat 1:31:47 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating fat 1:32:47 – Patron question from Vicente: Prefered supplements? 1:36:47 – Patron question from Jaime: Any tips on how to lose body fat for people who are stuck? 1:38:05 – Marisa’s thoughts on the ketogenic diet 1:41:57 – Marisa’s thoughts on veganism and vegetarianism 1:44:38 – Patron question from Cody: What is a good starting point for someone who is trying to heal an unhealthy relationship with food? 1:47:22 – Patron question from Wren: How can all climbers contribute to a healthy environment surrounding food/body image? 1:51:13 – How to respond to jokes about food restriction 1:53:39 – Are there any foods we should avoid? 1:55:43 – Marisa’s master’s thesis, studying eating patterns in youth climbers, and recommendations for parents and coaches 2:00:58 – Favorite pre-climbing snack 2:02:08 – How important is protein before or during climbing/training? 2:03:31 – Studying amenorrhea in female IFSC athletes 2:07:47 – “Eat enough.” 2:08:53 – Wrap up | |||
| EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story | 07 Nov 2022 | 02:33:36 | |
Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more. Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyliger Nuggets: 0:06:01 – Camping iterations 0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction 0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story 0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking 0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends 0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy 0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics 0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment 0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing 0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff 0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance 0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel 0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work 0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused 1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis 1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope 1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset 1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel 1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling 1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco 1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year 1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength 1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule 1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity 1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice 1:38:27 – The eyeball story 1:58:16 – Spain 2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace 2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love 2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business 2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com) 2:19:56 – How to find a good PT 2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing 2:29:35 – Wrap up | |||
| EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal | 17 Jun 2024 | 02:16:50 | |
Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more! Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut Video Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL! physivantage.com/discount/NUG20 Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app for free! Check out Tindeq! Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order! Check out KAYA! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecova Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing (00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time (00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 (00:12:39) – Climbing has it all (00:18:08) – A natural talent (00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering (00:25:57) – Childhood best friends (00:30:04) – Sharing successes (00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15 (00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting (00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’ (00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity (00:58:22) – Working with her coach (01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength (01:08:09) – How her training has changed (01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment (01:15:18) – Building my own home wall (01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’ (01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects (01:35:18) – Self-belief (01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory (01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum (01:43:21) – Hand tattoos (01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food (01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement (01:48:51) – Best decision (01:53:17) – Bug snacks (01:56:00) – Happiest moment (01:58:58) – Silver linings (02:03:11) – Proudest of (02:06:47) – Favorite rock type (02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes (02:11:27) – Wrap up | |||
| EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style | 01 Nov 2022 | 03:02:34 | |
Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. *He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!! Listen to more top bouldering episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Frictitious Climbing! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:06:13) – Seasons are shifting (00:08:52) – Prepping for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17 (9A), and setting his replica (00:11:44) – Trying Alphane, and bullet points (00:13:10) – We’ve already planned on a round 2! (00:15:23) – Crushing hard boulders to Elton John, and finding focus through relaxation (00:19:43) – Aidan’s first trip to the Rocklands and leaving competitions behind (00:26:01) – How Aidan developed his style, and how he thinks about training his weaknesses (00:28:02) – Differences among top boulderers, what Aidan learned from climbing with Dave Graham, and the shared trait of perseverance (00:36:10) – Aidan’s climbing style, high-angle crimps, and leg crimping (00:42:41) – How Aidan’s style is different from how Shawn Raboutou climbs (00:46:38) – Redefining what it means to be strong, and making your training specific (00:47:56) – Aidan’s thoughts on why none of the current V17’s (9A’s) have been repeated yet (00:50:18) – Getting away from “simple tasks” and reductionism in training (00:56:24) – How Aidan got so good at his style of climbing and high-angle crimping (01:03:07) – Discovering sling testing with Dan Varian, and training with mono slings (01:07:23) – Summary of how Aidan got so good at his climbing style (01:09:28) – Training in a high-angle position, and how he strengthened his index fingers (01:11:37) – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and testing with Ollie Torr (01:16:09) – How strong is Aidain on the Beastmaker 2000 center edge? (01:18:09) – Why simple finger strength testing doesn’t necessarily apply to our finger strength on the rock (01:22:19) – More about training his index fingers (01:26:21) – Quality and applicability in training (01:28:08) – “There is no rapid magic formula for finger strength” (01:29:07) – How Aidan approaches a project, and collecting bullet points for each move (01:35:01) – Aidan’s pre-send rituals (01:39:01) – Using bullet points to set the replica for Alphane, carving wooden holds, and measuring moves (01:45:59) – Training his legs for Alphane, and Copenhagen planks for abductors (01:47:50) – Using feet follow rules on his board (01:49:57) – Climbing Alphane from two moves in, and how to train for long boulders on a home wall or board (01:59:28) – Going to Finland to try Burden of Dreams V17 (9A), and what he learned from trying it (02:09:49) – Mastery (02:14:17) – Plans to train for Burden of Dreams (02:19:37) – Screwdriver injury (02:22:17) – Aidan’s philosophy with training on replicas, and climbing Isles of Wonder Sit V16 (8C+) (02:27:21) – Balancing highly specific training (replicas) with other training (02:29:48) – Aidan’s formula for goal setting (result, reality, and response) (02:33:09) – His goal setting formula applied to Alphane (02:36:37) – Influence and contribution, and Aidan’s podcast and magazine (02:42:13) – Traveling, and considering our environmental impact as climbers (02:52:24) – Thinking about offsetting my CO2 for my trip to Rocklands next summer (02:55:39) – Plans to live in the US for a year (02:57:21) – Wrap up | |||
| EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking | 24 Oct 2022 | 02:34:39 | |
Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robbie-phillips Nuggets: 0:07:14 – The Suzuki photo shoot, broken car, and tea without milk 0:10:00 – Onsighting the podcast 0:10:34 – Robbie’s recent trip to St. Kilda 0:16:15 – Rock types and the style of climbing in the Western Isles of Scotland 0:21:08 – Climbing a sea cliff in Dùn 0:26:27 – Robbie’s path from competition climbing to adventure climbing 0:35:12 – Climbing Bellevista 13d/14a (8b/+) in the Dolomites 0:38:56 – Imposter syndrome, and not being a natural at bold adventure climbing 0:40:48 – Being good at suffering 0:42:26 – Following the psych 0:45:10 – Patron question from Christoph: How does Robbie train for hard trad climbing specifically? 0:47:47 – What We Do in the Shadows E10 (14b/8c) 0:50:19 – The E grading system, and why Robbie isn’t a big fan of that system 0:55:20 – Indian Creek, and Robbie’s first day “flailing around” in Yosemite 0:57:06 – Patron question from Christoph: What does Robbie do to steel his mind for scary leads? 1:00:08 – Robbie’s almost life-altering accident when he started trad climbing, and the lesson he learned 1:03:44 – Breakdown of What We Do in the Shadows 1:11:06 – The process of projecting the route, his dad passing away, and the darkest period of his life 1:18:37 – How Robbie’s mom is doing now 1:20:32 – Robbie’s dad 1:26:32 – A few things Robbie learned from projecting with Dave MacLeod 1:33:46 – Why Robbie prefers working projects via top rope solo, and why he loves the Taz LOV3 1:49:02 – Balancing performance with having fun 1:53:52 – The Long Hope, and fulmars 2:02:06 – Robbie’s filmmaking, and capturing memories 2:14:18 – How Robbie makes a living 2:16:10 – I respect all the other podcasters! 2:17:02 – Why the new Long Hope film was so fun to work on, and entering it in the Kendal Mountain Festival 2:22:02 – Patron question from GeneO: Why does Robbie consider himself a professional climber but not a professional athlete? 2:24:59 – Upcoming climbing goals 2:28:02 – Does Robbie want to try Lexicon? 2:30:34 – Wrap up | |||
| EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance | 19 Oct 2022 | 01:52:17 | |
Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwell Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:07:08) – What is your Dawn Wall? (00:07:59) – Tommy’s injury and his canceled trip to Germany (00:09:53) – Tommy’s Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability (00:15:21) – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy’s climbing looks like these days (pre-injury) (00:17:35) – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO (00:20:17) – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor (00:23:05) – Matty Hong’s repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy’s thoughts on the grade (00:25:20) – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris (00:28:48) – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering (00:30:04) – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do (00:31:56) – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing? (00:34:00) – Patron Question from Atlin: What’s the next big objective that hasn’t been done in Yosemite? (00:35:16) – Leo Houlding’s vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold (00:38:46) – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainebleau (00:41:13) – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches (00:46:42) – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day? (00:47:55) – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly? (00:52:18) – Tommy’s TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything (00:55:17) – Toenail fungus, and Tommy’s experience with Lamasil (00:58:59) – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work (01:01:15) – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad (01:08:38) – Tommy’s parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom” (01:12:13) – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads? (01:13:53) – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability? (01:19:16) – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury? (01:20:40) – The story behind Tommy’s repeated achilles injury (01:25:25) – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone? (01:27:22) – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos (01:29:26) – Is Tommy still improving at climbing? (01:30:27) – The king line on El Cap (01:34:45) – Future linkups in Yosemite (01:36:57) – Tommy’s favorite Disney movie (01:37:36) – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience (01:40:19) – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners (01:42:35) – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard? (01:42:58) – Big wall pooping stories (01:45:22) – Another book? (01:46:34) – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine (01:49:31) – Wrap up | |||
| EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms | 10 Oct 2022 | 03:15:53 | |
Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Frictitious Climbing! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hill Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video (00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique (00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo (00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose (00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out (00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet (00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people (00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French (00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship (00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian (00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now (00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose (01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey (01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience (01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts (01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming (01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose (01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch (01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free (01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it (01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon (01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse (01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index) (01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers (01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s (01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart (01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path (01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days (02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber (02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear? (02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today? (02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon (02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women? (02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move (02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored (02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork? (02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries? (02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential? (02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world (02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done? (02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages (03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France (03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on (03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn! (03:11:01) – Lynn’s plans for Hueco | |||
| EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions | 03 Oct 2022 | 01:15:10 | |
My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6 Nuggets: 0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor! 0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited: 0:03:00 – Metal Game 0:06:09 – Watching Videos 0:09:55 – Visualization 0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan) 0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises 0:28:37 – Getting Creative 0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls 0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay! 0:30:59 – Patron Questions: 0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions? 0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing? 0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose? 0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc 0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol? 1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day? 1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27? | |||
| Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser) | 29 Sep 2022 | 00:23:48 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39. Ned’s Original Episode: | |||
| EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst — Lessons from Recent Sends, Training for Bouldering vs. Sport Climbing, and Leveling Up to V18 and 5.15c | 26 Sep 2022 | 02:26:30 | |
Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameron Nuggets: 0:06:31 – What they climbed on today 0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 2020 0:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering 0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering 0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew 0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days 0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d 0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d 0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO? 0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder 0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world? 0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US 0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion 0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing? 0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up 0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman) 1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season? 1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up 1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers 1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives? 1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch 1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers) 1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering 1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles 1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering 1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up? 1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip 1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career 2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V18 2:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s 2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave 2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career 2:17:33 – Flow state 2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing 2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing | |||
| EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers | 19 Sep 2022 | 02:23:00 | |
Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varian Nuggets: 0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions 0:10:36 – Dan’s resume 0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness 0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training 0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail 0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK 0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts 0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool 0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps 0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles 0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position 0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results 0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets 0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training 0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results 0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan 0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders 1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing 1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers 1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp 1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do 1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things 1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers 1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training 1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor 1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers 1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau 1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font 1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county 1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation 1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training 1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars 1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete 2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes 2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!) 2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers 2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training | |||
| EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power | 12 Sep 2022 | 02:49:12 | |
Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power. Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-hafer Nuggets: 0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing 0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright 0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone 0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.” 0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks 0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves 0:20:27 – What expectations are 0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright? 0:26:51 – Alice’s climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad’s stroke, and carrying emotional weight 0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad’s passion for climbing 0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren’t always sending, and passion and motivation 0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting 0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing 0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?” 0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice’s experience with depression 0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns 1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience 1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs 1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome 1:15:55 – Climbing matters 1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts 1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.” 1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail 1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening 1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward 1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete 1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects 1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus 1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b) 2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist’s 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation 2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies 2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body 2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power 2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats 2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort 2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.” 2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress? 2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training 2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress 2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice 2:30:43 – Alice’s final advice for listeners 2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14 | |||
| EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers | 05 Sep 2022 | 02:17:55 | |
Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag. We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success. Climbers Crag: Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Shortform! Use this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-van-boxtel Nuggets: 0:06:57 – Organizing the important stuff, and putting systems in place 0:11:11 – Overview of our conversation 0:13:30 – Soccer, discovering climbing, and losing 20-30 lbs to become a route setter 0:17:14 – Sam’s ability to focus on his goals, and why he got into business 0:20:03 – Moving up the chain with route setting 0:22:20 – How Sam got into social media, and getting 1000+ followers in less than a month 0:24:11 – The business side of being a content creator 0:26:57 – Pivoting from route setting to starting Climbers Crag, and how Sam teamed up with Tom Randall 0:37:03 – What Climbers Crag is today 0:40:41 – The organic next step 0:41:58 – Summary of everything so far, and Climbers Crag’s two main services as an agency 0:45:47 – The Climber’s Crag team, and why Sam reduced the size of his team 0:46:58 – Who this is worthwhile for, and having a strong “why” 0:53:13 – The two categories of individuals trying to grow their Instagram following, and having a clear funnel 0:59:17 – Why I decided to make the Nugget for a year before trying to monetize, and making sure you love 80-90% of what you’re doing 1:01:45 – “Goodwill compounds faster than revenue.” 1:02:19 – Virality and customer surplus 1:06:13 – The sustainability/longevity of the different social media platforms, supply and demand, why reels go viral, and why Instagram is king 1:12:41 – Why Sam pressed pause on TikTok for Climbers Crag 1:18:25 – Real numbers for Instagram growth goals, and where Sam thinks brands should be with Instagram before adding another platform 1:20:22 – Another summary, and using Instagram as a jumping-off point 1:23:05 – Crux Academy, and why Sam tries to talk most of his clients out of trying to grow on YouTube 1:24:54 – My current strategy for The Nugget’s Instagram, balancing viral, brand, and value posts, and having a CTA (call to action) strategy 1:32:17 – Sam’s recommendations for me to grow to 100k followers, and the two factors for growth 1:45:11 – Best practices for resharing content from an ethical standpoint 1:50:08 – Best time of day to post 1:52:15 – Hashtags, optimizing content for growth on Instagram, and removing exit points 1:59:48 – Watchtime and engagement 2:02:08 – Using Capcut for Reels 2:05:09 – Playing the game, and the difference between quality and success on a social media platform 2:12:13 – Hiding the vegetables 2:13:30 – Wrap up and how to connect with Sam | |||
| EP 223: Aidan Roberts — Navigating Pro Climbing, Establishing His Two Hardest Boulders, and Glimpsing Mastery | 10 Jun 2024 | 03:35:25 | |
Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17. We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing. Watch the Video Interview: EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut Video Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Mad Rock! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp! Use this link for 10% off your first month! PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL! physivantage.com/discount/NUG20 Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:59) – Recooperation phase (00:08:18) – Powering through (00:10:24) – Course corrections (00:13:58) – Climbing as his work (00:21:45) – Enduring austerity (00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber (00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing (00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing (00:45:44) – Valuing integrity (00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable (00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences (01:04:23) – Aidan’s last year and a half (01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds) (01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall (01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou (01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project (01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time) (02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter (02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time (02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds (02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery (02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb (02:38:06) – Proposing grades (02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+? (03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating (03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps (03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA (03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude (03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams (03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering (03:32:48) – Wrap up | |||
| Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser) | 31 Aug 2022 | 00:29:51 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46. Jonathan’s Other Episodes: EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020) EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020) Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020) | |||
| EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers | 29 Aug 2022 | 02:35:20 | |
Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Frictitious Climbing! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-gresham Nuggets: 0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge 0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high 0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d) 0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11) 0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders 0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure’s 80-foot whipper 0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas 0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve 0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching 0:58:52 – “People don’t realize how hard they can climb.” 1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game 1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project 1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing 1:14:59 – Don’t expect your project to feel easy 1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you’re feeling weak 1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod 1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then? 1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers 1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training 1:32:42 – Neil’s go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training 1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra’s rule for antagonist training 1:36:57 – Neil’s strength protocol for finger extensor training 1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount 1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s? 1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards? 1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on 1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.” 1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding) 2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil’s climbing and training 2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term 2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard 2:11:08 – Thumb crimping 2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally 2:16:34 – Why Neil’s climbing shot up between ages 45 and 50 2:23:33 – Neil’s golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training 2:27:33 – Finding balance 2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!) 2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil | |||
| EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter | 22 Aug 2022 | 01:55:41 | |
Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery. Climb Smarter: Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada) Buy from Sequoia Books (best if you are in the UK or Europe) Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! Check out Shortform! Use this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/rebecca-williams Nuggets: 0:07:32 – Kids 0:09:29 – Rebecca’s background in clinical psychology 0:13:04 – Why Rebecca quit gymnastics as a teenager 0:17:55 – How the mental blocks from gymnastics came back to haunt her as a climber 0:20:17 – The deeper fears at the roots of fear of falling, and trust and control 0:24:30 – Why it’s important to know where your fear of falling comes from, and the woman with the worm phobia 0:28:32 – Diving deeper into different fears 0:30:54 – Fear of fear, and learning to tolerate difficult feelings 0:33:14 – Learning to tolerate difficult emotions 0:37:09 – My (Steven’s) own experience with fear of falling when I started sport climbing, and tools for letting go of control 0:44:16 – The overdeveloped drive and threat systems, and the underdeveloped self-soothing system 0:46:32 – “We’re always conquering”, common narratives, and why fear of falling is rational 0:53:16 – Rebecca’s mental warmup, and bringing arousal levels down 0:58:30 – Not wanting to stray from “normal” 1:03:04 – Introducing doubts to our assumptions 1:08:38 – Breathing exercises to bring down arousal and anxiety 1:14:31 – Pre-climb routines, focusing before a send attempt, and mindfulness as an attitude 1:19:16 – Meditation and why it’s useful 1:24:31 – What practicing mindfulness has done for me (Steven) and how it has impacted my life 1:28:14 – “Falling practice is the last thing you do, and not the first thing you do.” 1:30:01 – Does practicing non-attachment take away our drive? And shifting our focus from achievement to mastery 1:33:00 – Why Rebecca decided to write her book Smart Climbing 1:37:05 – The nutrition chapter of the book, and the link between perfectionism and eating disorders 1:43:45 – What Rebecca is currently working on in her own climbing (related to mental game) 1:48:07 – Who the book is for, and where to buy it 1:49:25 – What’s next for Rebecca 1:50:34 – Rediscovering your early excitement for climbing | |||
| EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle | 15 Aug 2022 | 02:49:38 | |
Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast. Listen to more top episodes! thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Feals! Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ryan-devlin Nuggets: 0:07:15 – My Parent’s Basement Productions 0:09:35 – Junk food 0:12:20 – Returning to the Midwest 0:17:59 – How far Midwesterners commute to climb at the Red River Gorge 0:20:36 – The TV show ‘Are You the One?’, and why you might recognize Ryan in the grocery store 0:30:08 – A question from Allison Vest, and the role of chemistry in dating 0:37:20 – Similarities between the climbing world and the TV/acting world, and creating your own luck 0:43:20 – How Ryan deals with rejection, and building happiness that is not based on outcomes 0:49:19 – Being afraid of falling, Ryan’s first-ever trad lead, and how climbing has impacted his acting (and his life) 0:56:05 – How Ryan got into climbing, and his first day climbing at Tahquitz 1:07:25 – Getting into sport climbing and training in his 40s, and progressing from 11b to 12c in a year 1:16:50 – Early lightbulb moments in Ryan’s training journey 1:23:11 – Getting more days in at the crag 1:29:44 – Why Ryan decided to create The Struggle Climbing Show 1:38:00 – How the pros relate to struggle, and what the rest of us can learn from that 1:48:39 – Drinking from a firehose of information, and letting go of finding “the best way” to train 1:55:21 – Mental game, fear, gratitude, and Alex Honnold and Hazel Findlay’s mental approaches 2:00:01 – Hollywood love scenes, and being starstruck by Lynn Hill and Harrison Ford 2:07:53 – Podcasting and community 2:10:17 – Starting a Forest School, and looking at the world through kids' eyes 2:14:56 – Camping, van windows, and blackout curtains 2:18:33 – Vanlife, and climbing with Jordan Cannon and Alex Honnold 2:30:24 – The climbing experience scales 2:31:29 – Ryan’s hopes and dreams as a rock climber 2:37:50 – Ryan’s plans for Season 2 of The Struggle Climbing Show 2:44:30 – Wrap up | |||
| EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique | 08 Aug 2022 | 02:21:12 | |
Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box. The Climbing Bible: Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada) Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe) Check out Frictitious Climbing! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order! Check out Arc'teryx! Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be Check out Chalk Cartel! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-and-martin Nuggets: 0:07:56 – Where we’re all tuning in from 0:09:29 – Stian and Martin introduce each other 0:17:14 – What Stain and Martin admire about one another 0:22:43 – Stian’s proudest climbing accomplishments 0:26:29 – Stian’s process of projecting his hardest route (FA of a new 9a) 0:31:04 – A day in Martin’s life 0:33:16 – The pros and cons of being a route setter, and trying to balance route setting with climbing 0:38:24 – Martin’s proudest climbing accomplishments 0:43:31 – Writing The Climbing Bible, and how the book got its name 0:46:40 – Why The Climbing Bible was published as two different books, and how they interact with one another 0:48:58 – Who the books are for 0:52:06 – Question from Rannveig: When coaching, how do you balance the physical, technical, and mental sides of the sport? 0:55:29 – The shortcomings of modern gyms, and the value of making up your own boulders 1:02:09 – Stian’s thoughts on what holds climbers back from breaking into 5.11 or 5.12 1:04:28 – The importance of different physical characteristics for climbing performance, and finger strength vs. general strength 1:12:22 – The 9c test, and the benefits and limitations of physical assessments 1:20:00 – Mental strengths that separate climbers with the same physical and technical abilities, and tapping into aggression 1:29:21 – How Stian and Martin have worked on improving their own technical abilities 1:37:39 – Spray wall training vs. commercial gym sets, and separating strength sessions from technical slab sessions 1:50:00 – Separating indoor and outdoor climbing 1:51:23 – Another question from Rannveig: What are the biggest gimmicks in climbing and training right now, and what old-school methods are the most legit? 1:56:51 – “Never respect grades.” 2:01:03 – The Play Box vs. the Think Box, and the story of Stian’s FA of Eurofighter V13/14 (8B/+) 2:11:06 – What to expect if you buy The Climbing Bible 2:14:49 – We should be movement optimists 2:16:47 – Where to buy the book, and wrap up | |||
| Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser) | 05 Aug 2022 | 00:24:27 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:04:24. Matt’s Originial Episode: | |||
| EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner | 01 Aug 2022 | 02:04:05 | |
Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable, how to have difficult conversations, common insecurities and fears in relationships, tips for long-distance relationships, vanlife dating tips, and much more. Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! Check out Athletic Greens! Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dorian-evers Nuggets: 0:05:57 – Getting caught in thunderstorms 0:09:51 – Dorian’s office and therapy practice 0:11:04 – An example of Emotionally Focused Therapy 0:15:19 – Bringing our baggage into our relationships 0:18:32 – Talking about our relationships as climbers, and why this conversation feels important to Dorian 0:21:22 – Parts of ourselves, the different parts of Dorian, and her identity 0:25:09 – Do we have to give up our climbing identity to be in a healthy relationship? 0:28:04 – Having a mismatched level of stoke with your partner, and getting vulnerable with your partner 0:36:48 – How to make our partners feel secure in our relationships 0:39:55 – Making meaning of what we don’t know 0:41:07 – People pleasing vs. being radically honest 0:45:15 – Becoming aware of our fears/worries, and checking in with our partners 0:49:21 – Finding delight and empathy in your partner’s experience 0:55:59 – Being curious about what lights up your partner 0:59:48 – Communication, and creating a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable 1:05:10 – Active listening skills 1:07:13 – When to have difficult conversations with your partner 1:10:38 – Navigating insecurity and jealously 1:15:20 – Telling your partner that you’re thinking of them 1:18:30 – Staying in the room 1:20:26 – “We’re not mind readers.” 1:21:22 – Patron question from Joy: How do you stay psyched as a climber when your partner doesn’t climb? 1:24:01 – “Every relationship is going to have conflict, but it’s about the repair.” 1:27:31 – How to stay connected to your partner when you’re on a trip 1:31:36 – How to stay connected in a long-distance relationship 1:36:42 – Question from Doreen, and lessons we learn from climbing 1:40:53 – Balancing different individual passions in your relationship 1:42:46 – Carving out intentional time for conversation 1:45:07 – Living in a tiny house, and Dorian’s tips for living in a small space with your partner 1:51:59 – My experience with Better Help, and how to find a therapist | |||
| EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project | 25 Jul 2022 | 02:36:27 | |
Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project. Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/callie-joy-black Nuggets: 0:05:28 – Overview of this podcast episode, and her son’s pants-shitting story 0:12:00 – Why Joy studied Spanish in college, getting pregnant, being a single mom, and studying nutrition 0:15:19 – Being obsessed with movement, getting into climbing, and her path to becoming a strength coach 0:19:09 – Why Joy chose to specialize in training during pregnancy and post-partum recovery 0:24:26 – How male listeners can benefit from this conversation, and how the pelvic floor affects movement 0:28:43 – Being scared of pregnancy, and two things Joy wishes someone had told her when she was pregnant for the first time 0:32:39 – Fall risk with climbing when pregnant 0:41:37 – Where Joy lives and where she usually climbs 0:42:59 – Joy’s three pregnancies 0:49:14 – Making the best decision for you and your pregnancy 0:50:33 – When is it ok to climb after pregnancy? 0:56:43 – Educating your doctor 0:59:29 – How to support your climbing during pregnancy with strength training, and the role of the pelvic floor 1:07:08 – Empowering women to lift heavier things 1:18:00 – How Joy gets buy-in from women who are nervous to strength train 1:26:04 – Changing from a performance mindset to an exploratory mindset 1:27:52 – One of my favorite quotes from Steve Bechtel, and writing the forward to his book Mettle 1:30:16 – Losing members of your climbing community when they have kids, and sharing climbing with your kids 1:33:06 – Is it possible to climb just as hard after pregnancy and having kids? 1:40:38 – Joy’s current climbing goal to climb 5.12, and working with Maddie from Lattice Training 1:42:32 – Get a hangboard! 1:42:59 – Being selfish and creating boundaries 1:50:27 – A question from Mina about key lightbulb moments 1:55:17 – Relaxin (hormone) and hangboarding during pregnancy 2:02:34 – More resources for breath work and pelvic floor training 2:11:27 – Breathing into your butthole 2:12:54 – Joy’s tips for using Instagram as a business owner 2:19:23 – Love and muscles 2:20:51 – “The best project you will ever work on is you.” 2:23:02 – My current life project 2:27:44 – Joy’s current life project 2:31:13 – Wrap up | |||
| Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser) | 21 Jul 2022 | 00:38:00 | |
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more! Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36. Steve’s Other Episodes: Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021) Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022) Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the third one, published Apr 21, 2022) | |||
| EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance | 18 Jul 2022 | 02:44:59 | |
Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more. *If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller, don’t skip this one! Check out Petzl! Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! Check out Feals! Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) Check out PhysiVantage! physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone Nuggets: 0:06:17 – Breakfast, considerations when building a home wall, and how to make climbing holds out of plywood 0:12:24 – Skin conditioning, and dishwashing gloves 0:15:19 – Applying too much stuff to our skin 0:16:56 – Climbing volume, and trying to add more things to make our injuries better 0:18:39 – Being obsessive 0:21:15 – Jesse’s first rest day 0:23:31 – Jesse’s early mentors in climbing, and taking opportunities when they come 0:25:28 – Identifying as a boulderer early on, and wishing he had rested more 0:27:53 – The Portland phase, and how to get pure raw strength in the climbing gym 0:31:27 – Dropping out of college to hit the road for 7 months, and why Jesse’s climbing ability skyrocketed 0:33:08 – The Bend phase 0:35:41 – How Jesse got into coaching 0:38:02 – Emotional regulation, mindset, and common mistakes 0:41:01 – An introduction to Jesse’s Performance Pyramid 0:43:30 – The tiers of the Performance Pyramid 0:47:52 – Jesse’s consistency, and which elements of the pyramid climbers are most resistant to 0:50:11 – Changing our circumstances, and thinking of our lifestyles as an investment 0:52:25 – Quantum leaps 0:54:07 – Spray walls, and the distractions of the climbing gym 0:56:24 – Jesse’s spray wall soapbox 0:58:01 – Emotional regulation strategies (breathing and mantras) 1:03:20 – Emotional regulation strategies (easy climbing with no agenda, and learning to climb alone) 1:04:57 – Beta selection, and the language we speak on the wall 1:07:39 – Pivoting of the torso 1:11:09 – Tough Strips 1:13:31 – MacGyvering solutions, and thinking outside the box 1:17:30 – Beating your head against bad beta, and the importance of finishing climbs 1:21:13 – “We’re all going to hit a point where we’re not climbing harder anymore.” 1:25:53 – 3 tips for beginners 1:32:54 – 3 tips for outdoor-focused climbers 1:37:02 – Summary of 3 tips lists 1:37:43 – Practicing technique on rock 1:38:35 – Flashing boulders, flash ethics, and tips that helped Jesse flash his first V10 1:49:43 – Two hard highball first ascents that Jesse climbed in 2021 (see show notes for videos) 2:00:58 – Why Jesse named one of his highballs Imposter Syndrome 2:03:24 – Being proud of the two highball FAs, and Jesse’s thoughts on repeating established highballs 2:04:36 – Exploring the feeling of being afraid, and exposure therapy 2:05:44 – Patron question from Xander: Have you had to make changes to your training after turning 30? 2:09:54 – Thinking in campaigns/seasons 2:13:31 – Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD) 2:14:37 – Doing more training after 30 2:15:57 – Patron question from Joe: At what level of strength do we experience diminishing returns, and is it worth training the hinge if you can maintain that level without training it directly? (Ex. double bodyweight deadlift) 2:18:25 – Patron question from Joe: What is one piece of advice Jesse wishes he had taken earlier? (mastery, and being a barbarian) 2:20:44 – Patron question from Christopher: How do you handle it mentally if you start regressing on a project? (setting early goals for a session) 2:22:33 – Going into projects with inertia, and knowing when to walk away 2:25:03 – Why Jesse is moving to Leavenworth 2:26:37 – Using a yoga block to train for narrow compression moves on a V12 2:29:47 – Jesse’s thoughts on what it would take for him to climb V14 2:35:47 – Why Jesse and I are thankful for one another, and finding a climbing partner who will cut through your bullshit | |||
| EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck | 03 Jun 2024 | 02:15:41 | |
Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207. Watch the Video Interview of this episode: EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video! Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial! Check out Fenix! My Go-To Headlamp: HL32R-T The Cadillac of Headlamps: HM65R-T V2.0 Check out Tindeq! Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order! Check out KAYA! Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! Check out Crimpd! Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:10) – Life update from Steven (00:11:07) – OQS banter (00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207) (00:18:48) – Wrist widgets (00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention (00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks (00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training (00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip (00:39:20) – Clarifying questions (00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work (00:48:52) – Nordic curls (00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries (00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift (00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks (00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab (00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads (01:08:11) – Stop firefighting (01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles (01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization (01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas (01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries (01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders (01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells (01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason (01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal (01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain (01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers (01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians (01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis (01:58:45) – The booty thrust (02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios (02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level (02:11:01) – What’s next for Paul (02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons | |||
| BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish | 14 Jul 2022 | 00:22:31 | |
In this short bonus episode, my friend Michelle LeBlanc joins me on the podcast to talk about Project Pride! Project Pride is an upcoming outdoor bouldering event in Squamish, B.C, and is an opportunity for 2SLGBTQ+ individuals to connect and climb. Join us to learn more and check out the links below to reserve your spot! Preregister Here! https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-tickets-352167872587 Gripped Article: Instagram Links: | |||
| S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project) | 11 Jul 2022 | 00:29:19 | |
This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy! Check out more episodes of ACP! And support Devin on Patreon! | |||
| EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better | 11 Jul 2022 | 02:35:42 | |
Devin Dabney is a rock climber, routesetter, rapper, music producer, writer, and creator of The American Climbing Project podcast. We talked about using humor to talk about uncomfortable subjects, inviting people into conversations, how climbing saved his life after considering suicide, breaking down barriers to climbing, how competition makes us better, and making a difference in the climbing community. Support Devin's Podcast! patreon.com/americanclimbingproject Check out Grasshopper Climbing! instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions! Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/devin-dabney Nuggets: 0:08:20 – Green screens and SpongeBob 0:12:52 – How Devin and I connected, and binging his podcast 0:17:41 – Devin’s vision for The American Climbing Project (ACP) 0:23:30 – Using humor to poke at difficult subjects, and inviting people into conversation 0:28:37 – Devin’s target audience, exposing listeners to different perspectives about race, and my (Steven’s) ignorance having grown up as a white kid from the PNW 0:32:22 – Climbing as an escape, and connecting to the world around us as climbers 0:33:50 – Plans for season 2 of ACP, and covering gender and sexual orientation in climbing 0:35:03 – Rob, and the ACP blog 0:38:23 – The skits 0:39:40 – Devin and Rob’s mission to provide a tool to grow and improve the climbing community and redistribute wealth 0:41:52 – The mixtape format of the ACP 0:45:22 – The Black Square skit 0:47:26 – Creativity, and sprints of inspiration 0:48:44 – How Devin puts together one of his episodes 0:52:10 – Growing up playing the violin, and getting into music production and rap 0:55:58 – Devin’s 7 different jobs 1:00:03 – The Great Equalizer, and Devin’s introduction to climbing 1:07:13 – Feeling lost, drafting a suicide note, and how climbing changed his life 1:09:15 – Studying architecture, traveling around the world, and sharing the real shit 1:14:29 – Why providing access to climbing feels important to Devin, and the many reasons climbing is awesome 1:17:09 – Barriers that keep climbing from being accessible/welcoming to marginalized groups of people 1:24:27 – The discomfort of climbing, the civil rights movement, and why the history of climbing is white 1:28:37 – Trading weed for moonshine, and the different experience of being with other white vs. black climbers 1:31:24 – “I would never go hunting without a white person.” 1:33:48 – The Halloween episode story, and photo releases in gym waivers 1:41:58 – How the podcast has been received, and responding to criticism 1:48:25 – Being reactive to headlines 1:52:40 – Topics that Devin hopes to cover in future seasons of the ACP podcast 2:00:12 – How to support the ACP 2:05:28 – Plug Tone Audio, why Devin loves competition, and shared inspiration 2:17:15 – Who Devin looks up to 2:20:50 – Guests that Devin would love to hear on The Nugget 2:23:48 – The depth we have as rock climbers 2:25:45 – Climbers are leaders 2:26:35 – What’s next for ACP | |||