Welcome to The Institute of Black Imagination hosted by artist, writer, and designer Dario Calmese. Each week we bring you conversations from The Pool of Black Genius: a collection of iconoclasts at the leading edge of cultural thought and innovation. We are here to inspire, engage, and to help you unleash your own imagination.
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E97. SEAMLESS. with Oscar Winning Costume Designer, Paul Tazewell
Episode 97
Sunday, April 13, 2025 • Duration 01:15:02
Episode Summary:
In this monumental 97th episode—our first-ever live recording—we welcome legendary costume designer and visual storyteller Paul Tazewell, just one week after his historic win as the first Black man to receive the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Wicked. Set against the vibrant backdrop of Space 001, the Institute’s newly opened physical space, Paul and host Dario Calmese delve into a deeply moving, expansive conversation about storytelling through clothing, the power of design, Black imagination, and the long road to recognition.
From his early days sewing dashikis and puppets in Akron, Ohio, to crafting iconic looks for Hamilton, The Wiz Live!, Harriet, West Side Story, and now Wicked, Paul shares the emotional, intellectual, and spiritual layers that shape his work. This episode is a masterclass in creative process, artistic evolution, and how style becomes a vessel for history, identity, and transformation.
What We Explore:
A Historic Win: Paul reflects on becoming the first Black man to win an Oscar for costume design.
Roots & Influence: His upbringing in Akron and support from his two moms shaped his creative path.
Finding His Lane: He learned to trust design as his true calling while navigating multiple talents.
Design as Story: Paul reveals how costumes—like those in Wicked—carry emotion, science, and symbolism.
Legacy & Access: He honors Black creative lineage and shares his vision for mentoring future storytellers.
Quotables:
“Clothing is never just about what you wear. It’s about the story you tell.”
— Paul Tazewell
“Being visible, taking up space, allows you access to investigate what’s next.
— Paul Tazewell
“Beauty is the antidote to the ugliness in the world.”— Paul Tazewell
About the Guest:
Paul Tazewell is a Tony, Emmy, BAFTA, and now Academy Award-winning costume designer whose breathtaking work has helped shape the visual identity of contemporary theater and film. From Hamilton to Wicked, his designs transcend aesthetics—they are blueprints for character, history, and emotion.
Space 001 – A concept store, research lab, and living archive in the Oculus, NYC
Geoffrey Holder – Legendary Black artist and costume designer for The Wiz
Wicked (Film) – Now featuring Oscar-winning costume design
North Carolina School of the Arts, NYU, and Pratt Institute – Key touchstones in Paul’s training
Mellon Foundation – Supporting imagination and justice through the arts
Soundtrack: Inspired by Paul Tazewell’s Journey & Genius
"Home" – Stephanie Mills(from The Wiz) - A soulful ode to identity, memory, and belonging—an emotional anchor for Paul’s early influence and connection to The Wiz.
"Defying Gravity" – Cynthia Erivo(from Wicked) - A triumphant anthem of transformation, resistance, and rising above—mirroring Paul’s groundbreaking win and Elphaba’s journey.
"Back to Life" – Soul II Soul - An Afro-futurist groove echoing Paul’s ability to breathe story into garments—rooted in culture, yet futuristic.
"Optimistic" – Sounds of Blackness - A call to persevere, perfect for honoring Paul’s long and winding path through doubt, brilliance, and breakthrough.
"Mood Indigo" – Nina Simone - A textured, moody classic that reflects the complexity and emotion Paul brings to characters through costume and color.
Recommended Reading List: For Further Exploration
Costume and Fashion: A Concise History by James Laver - A beautifully illustrated guide tracing the evolution of dress—perfect for those curious about how fashion and costume shape culture.
If this dialogue resonated with you, sparked inspiration, or offered a new perspective, we’d love your support! Here’s how you can help us keep these powerful stories alive:
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Thank you for being part of this journey. Your voice, your presence, and your support make all the difference! ✨
E96. Towards A New Architecture. with Dr. Lesley Lokko OBE
Episode 96
Sunday, May 26, 2024 • Duration 01:33:41
About The Guest
Today we're honored to introduce our guest, Professor Lesley Lokko. A distinguished Ghanaian-Scottish architect, educator, and bestselling novelist, Dr. Lokko most recently served as the Curator of the 18th Venice Biennale of Architecture, becoming the first Black-identified person to hold the position. She’s also the founder and Director of the African Futures Institute (AFI) a pioneering postgraduate school of architecture in Accra, Ghana.
Dr. Lokko is also a best-selling novelist with 12 titles under her belt. Her novels have been translated into sixteen languages dealing with themes of love, loyalty, class, race, and cultural identity, transforming the “beach-read” genre into an extension of her architectural, world-building practice. For her contributions to the fields of Architecture and education, she was appointed an Officer of the Order of the British Empire in 2023 and 2024 won the Gold Medal Award, by the Royal Institute of British Architects, one of the highest honors in the world of architecture.
And in many ways, that’s where today's conversation with Prof. Leslie Lokko begins. The reality of appearing to be at the top, juxtaposed against the sweat and elbow grease required in institution-building and well… being a human being. Prof. Lokko joyfully and deftly takes us on a journey of triumph, career pivots, culture shock, womanhood, and becoming.
Connect with us on Twitter and Instagram @blackimagination, subscribe to our newsletter for updates, and support the show by clicking this support link. and explore more content on blackimagination.com. Now, And now, the indefatigable Professor Lesley Lokko.
E87: Catching The Spirit with Chester Higgins, Jr.
Episode 87
Sunday, December 17, 2023 • Duration 01:37:10
Today’s conversation is with the legendary photographer, Chester Higgins. I’ve admired Chester’s work for years… he’s a master of his craft, and a technician to the Nth degree. But it’s one thing to appreciate the work of an artist, it’s another to delve into their worldview: the work we see simply being an artifact of a greater pursuit. Well, that’s what today’s holds. What appears to be captured images, is actually Chester’s attempts at in all actuality, capturing God.
In today’s episode, Chester reflects on the near-death childhood experience at the age of 9 that opened his eyes to a parallel reality, introducing him to the spirit that shapes existence. He shares his insights on the interconnectedness of life, the continuous cycle of energy, and the pursuit of capturing the elusive spirit in his photographs.
Connect with us on Twitter and Instagram @blackimagination, subscribe to our newsletter for updates, and support the show by clicking this support link. and explore more content on blackimagination.com.
Tuskegee University- a private, historically black land-grant university in Tuskegee, Alabama.
P. H. Polk - American photographer known for his portraits of African Americans.
Andrew Young - American politician, civil rights leader, and served in the U.S. House of Representatives
E1. T.J. Walker of Cross Colours
Episode 1
Friday, May 29, 2020 • Duration 48:26
Today’s episode is with TJ Walker, one of the co-founders of the pioneering streetwear brand, Cross Colours. Cross Colours blasted onto the urban fashion scene in the late 80’s, and their bright colors, loose silhouettes, and inspiring message, “Clothing Without Prejudice” presaged the launch of a string of urban streetwear brands like Karl Kani, FuBu, and Phat Farm. Cross Colours came to define the 90s, worn by every musical icon of the era like Snoop Dogg, Dr. Dre, Lil Kim, Mary J Blige, TLC, and most famously Will Smith while on The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. The brand has had a resurgence recently, especially after Bruno Mars and Cardi B wore Cross Colours during the 2018 Grammy Awards.
In this episode we discuss TJ’s path from a farm in Mississippi to designing for one of the most profitable Black businesses of his time (2:34), how he actually got those clothes on Will Smith (16:30), why their slogan, “Clothing without Prejudice” still resonates 2 decades later (29:07), and a new initiative he’s started with costume designer Ruth Carter, who most recently won the Academy Award for her costume design for Marvel’s Black Panther(38:10).
Thank you so much for listening, and if you enjoyed this conversation,, shout us out on social, and leave a review on Apple Podcasts, which is super helpful! please share it out over social media. and let him know your favorite part of our conversation together.
Thank you all so much for tuning in today, I hope this show brought a lot of value to you. If you enjoyed, please share it out over social media with your friends and loved ones. Tag me at @blackimaginationpodcast on instagram, and shoutout our boy TJ Walker @tjwalkerofficial. We have so many amazing episodes coming your way, so be sure to subscribe wherever you receive your podcasts, and be sure to rate us over on iTunes, which helps out a lot!
Today, we embark on a profound journey with the iconic Emory Douglas. As the former Minister of Culture for the Black Panther Party, Emory's art ignited a revolution. Today, we ask you to reorient your ears… this is history. There’s an old African proverb that states when a person transitions, a library burns to the ground. Well, today’s conversation with Emory Douglass is a living archive revealing itself. It’s what we here at the Institute call Archival Intelligence. Take notes. Research the names. Refer back. Today’s conversation is a retelling of artmaking in revolutionary times, and what it means to create new identities within a community.
Join us in this safe space as Emory candidly shares tales of rebellion, societal exchanges, and the intricate web of connections in his formative years. This episode is not just an interview; it's a voyage through the corridors of time, shedding light on the profound interplay of art, activism, and the Black experience. And to hear another side of this story, be sure to check out episode 26 with Elaine Browne, the only woman to serve as Chair of the Black Panther party.
Connect with us on Twitter and Instagram @blackimagination, subscribe to our newsletter for updates, and support the show by clicking this support link. Visit our YouTube channel, 'The Institute of Black Imagination,' and explore more content on blackimagination.com.
And now, join us as Emory Douglas navigates through the intersections of art, activism, and the enduring quest for justice.
Bobby Seale - African American political activist and co-founder and national chairman of the Black Panther Party.
E85. Mastering Your Story with Lena Waithe
Episode 85
Sunday, November 19, 2023 • Duration 01:29:59
Today, we're honored to sit down with the incredible Lena Waithe, a trailblazing writer, producer, and actress who's reshaped film and TV.
In this enlightening chat, Lena shares her roots, tracing back to her grandmother's brave journey from Arkansas to Chicago. We explore the concept of identity, her take on 'ladylike,' and how she's embraced her individuality.
Lena reflects on how societal expectations shape identity and the importance of curiosity and meaningful conversations. We also delve into her creative process and the genesis of 'Queen & Slim,' a film challenging conventions and examining Black identity.
Connect with us on Twitter and Instagram @blackimagination, subscribe to our newsletter for updates, and support the show by clicking this support link. Visit our YouTube channel, 'The Institute of Black Imagination,' and explore more content on blackimagination.com.
Stay tuned as Lena Waithe shares insights on self-transformation, overcoming naysayers, and the power of community in her journey from Chicago to Hollywood. Don't miss this captivating conversation on the Institute of Black Imagination.
Key Links
Queen & Slim- 2019 American romantic road crime drama film
The CHI - An American drama television series created by Lena Waithe
Michael G. Fry - Chicago born, Emmy nominated television writer, actor and producer
E84. Life on the Streets with Andre D. Wagner
Episode 84
Sunday, November 5, 2023 • Duration 01:37:00
Our guest today is none other than the visionary photographer, Andre D. Wagner. With a lens that tells stories in a way that words cannot, Andre has made a significant mark in the world of photography. He has been commissioned by The New Yorker, The New York Times, Esquire, W Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, Time, Vogue, well, YouTube the picture. In addition to his editorial work, he was the creative force behind the promotional imagery for the film "Queen & Slim" in 2019.
His first monograph, Here for the Ride, was published by Creative Future in 2017 and he is currently editing a 10-year body of work titled New City, Old Blues. In 2022, he was awarded the Gordon Parks fellowship, and His photographs have appeared in several solo exhibitions and group shows in Los Angeles, New York, and North Carolina.
Be sure to share some of your thoughts on today's episode with us on Instagram at @blackimagination. If you want to stay updated on all our latest news and exclusive content, click on this newsletter link. If you love what we do and like to support the show, click this support link.
Today, we have a truly remarkable guest. Joining us today is the brilliant Dr. Joy Buolamwini, a computer scientist, digital activist and self-described “Poet of Code” whose journey began at that Temple of Technology, the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, or MIT for short. She's the founder of the Algorithmic Justice League, a place where art and activism intersect to illuminate the social implications of AI. She also has a book dropping on Halloween called, wait for it, Unmasking AI. How fitting is that for Halloween?
But her story isn't just about her prestigious academic credentials; it's about the extraordinary transformation her creative journey has taken. In today’s conversation, she reveals how her quest to create a digital filter, one that could change the reflection of herself in a mirror, led to a profound exploration of technology's hidden biases.
Be sure to share some of your thoughts on today's episode with us on Instagram at @blackimagination. If you want to stay updated on all our latest news and exclusive content, click on this newsletter link. If you love what we do and would like to support the show, click this support link.
E82. Dancing Through the Archive with the Legendary George Faison
Episode 82
Sunday, October 22, 2023 • Duration 01:15:54
Today, we have a very special interview with the legendary choreographer and producer, George Faison. In this conversation, George takes us on a journey through his remarkable life, from his early days in Washington, D.C., to his experiences dancing with Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater, and mostly, and his iconic role as the choreographer of the "The Wiz" on Broadway. For which he won a Tony. Becoming the first Black person to do so.
George shares stories of his encounters with great artists like Maya Angelou and Stevie Wonder and the incredible impact they had on his life. But perhaps the most captivating part of this interview is George's vivid description of creating the Emerald City sequence in "The Wiz." He also shares the role books play in his creative process. For George, it all begins with the archive.
Be sure to share some of your thoughts on today's episode with us on Instagram at @blackimagination. If you want to stay updated on all our latest news and exclusive content, click on this newsletter link. If you love what we do and want to support the show, click this support link.
Things Mentioned
Maya Angelou - an American memoirist, poet, and civil rights activist.
The Wiz - The musical version of "The Wonderful Wizard of Oz"
Dick Gregory - an American comedian, actor, writer, activist and social critic.
Gazelle - George Faison ballet - Dedicated to the Free Spirit in All of Us.
E81. The Sound of Success with Tank and The Bangas
Episode 81
Sunday, October 15, 2023 • Duration 57:11
In today's episode, we're joined by Tarriona ”Tank” Ball and Norman Spence of the Grammy-nominated Tank & The Bangas, a band hailing from the vibrant, swampy, and swinging coastal town of New Orleans. They've been wowing audiences since 2011 with their eclectic fusion of funk, soul, hip-hop, and spoken word. Today, we explore their dynamic journey from open mic nights to Grammy nominations; diving into the inspiration behind their genre-blurring music.
To date, they’ve released three studio albums, Thinktank (2013), Green Balloon (2019), and Red Balloon (2022). With two Grammy nominations under their belt, they are just getting started. Also, a note, the audio quality of this episode gets a little bonkers as Norman’s headphones begin to fail and Tank’s phone dies. But it’s all a part of the journey to becoming, so we left it in.
Be sure to share some of your thoughts on today's episode with us on Instagram at @blackimagination. If you want to stay updated on all our latest news and exclusive content, click on this newsletter link. If you love what we do and want to support the show, click this support link.
Current members.
Tarriona "Tank" Ball – lead vocals (2011–present)
Norman Spence II – bass, keyboards, guitar (2011–present)
Joshua Johnson – drums, musical director (2011–present)
Albert Allenback – alto saxophone, flute (2014–present)
Band History:
Members of Tank and the Bangas met at a New Orleans open mic show called Liberation Lounge and formed the group in 2011.
The band won the 2017 and in November 2019, they were nominated in the Best New Artis category for the 2020 Grammy Awards. They have released three studio albums, (2013), , and .
African Futures Institute - a new model for architectural education centered on three areas: teaching, research and public events.
The Black Arts Movement (1965-1975) - Black nationalism movement that focused on music, literature, drama, and the visual arts made up of Black artists and intellectuals.
Eldridge Cleaver- member of The Black Panther Party, he served as the first Minister of Information.
Throughout their career, the group has performed on “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon,” “Austin City Limits” and “The Today Show.” Tank and The Bangas have toured non-stop, selling out venues both stateside and abroad including festival appearances at Coachella, Glastonbury, Bonnaroo and the Newport Jazz Festival.
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