In a rare interview, the influential Japanese designer speaks with BoFβs Imran Amed about the philosophy that underpins his boundary-breaking career.
Background:Β
After graduating from Keio University with a law degree, Yohji Yamamoto realised he wasnβt interested in the law.
βI didnβt want to join the ordinary society,β he says. βSo I told my mother after graduation β¦ βI want to help you.ββΒ
She agreed to let him work at her dressmaking shop in Kabukicho, an entertainment district in Tokyoβs Shinjuku ward, and learn from the sewing assistants if he enrolled at Bunka Fashion College, now famous for training designers such as Kenzo Takada, Junya Watanabe and Yamamoto himself.
After graduating, Yamamoto went on to set up a small ready-to-wear company that slowly acquired buyers in all of Japanβs major cities. This success eventually led him to Paris, where his signature tailoring and draping in oversized silhouettes created an aesthetic earthquake at Paris Fashion Week in 1981.
Since then, Yamamoto has developed a cult following of loyalists who swear by his avant-garde designs. βIβm not working in the mainstream,β he says. βIβm working in the side stream.β
This week on The BoF Podcast, we revisit Imran Amedβs rare interview with the legendary Japanese designer about his storied career β and the mindset designers need to succeed.Β
Key Insights:
- Yamamoto says the fashion industryβs increasingly fast-pace has come at the expense of true creativity. βFor me the fashion business became a money business,β he said. βI felt Iβve been losing my competitors year by year.β
- Yamamoto believes that modern technology can be a distraction. βWhen I speak with young designers, I [tell] them shut your computer,β he said. βIf you really want to see real things, real beauty, you have to go there by walking.β
- Yamamoto believes itβs a designerβs job to completely immerse themselves in design. βIf you want to create something, keep resisting the mediocracy of ordinary things. Itβs a life's work. Are you ready to sacrifice yourself to create something?β