Smart Beauty – Details, episodes & analysis

The perfume world is notoriously tricky to succeed in. (How do you market an invisible product that everyone will experience differently?) In today’s episode, I’m delighted to welcome two of my favorite people in the British fragrance world, Pia Long and Nick Gilbert, the fiercely intelligent and wonderfully unfiltered founders of Olfiction. Known for their bespoke perfumery and consultancy services, as well as their own candle and perfume range Bougie Bougie, Nick and Pia represent everything that’s great about the independent British fragrance industry.

Pia Long is a Finnish-born perfumer with a unique perspective shaped by her twin passions for writing and fragrance, and a wealth of experience across every corner of the industry. Nick Gilbert, Olfiction’s Creative Director, brings his expert touch to brand development and consumer engagement, with a reputation for insightful commentary and engaging presence on BBC radio. As we chat, you’ll see why these two are so in demand—busy, brilliant, and always authentic. I hope you enjoy the conversation.

olfiction.com

boujeebougies.com

instagram.com/nickrgilbert

instagram.com/perfumer.pia

In this episode of the Smart Beauty Podcast, host Viola Levy discusses why her branding agency proudly identifies as feminist. Viola delves into the historical male dominance in the beauty industry, the rise of female founders, and the importance of creating authentic, empowering marketing strategies that resonate with modern consumers. She also explores the misconceptions around feminism and beauty, advocating for a fresh approach that prioritizes empowerment and self-care over playing on insecurities. Tune in to learn how Smart Beauty Creative is helping to reshape the beauty industry with a feminist perspective.

Nestled in Mayfair’s Royal Arcade, the Ormonde Jayne boutique offers some of the most unique concoctions on the planet, with ingredients sourced from all around the globe, worlds away from the many typical bland commercial scents on the market. Its founder Linda Pilkington creates perfumes which echo an era of bygone glamour when perfumes actually were perfumes, designed to be worn with a cocktail dress and many glittering jewels, as one sashays off out into the evening.They are also stocked in London’s top department stores such as Selfridges and Harrods and she has previously collaborated with the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Knightsbridge. Ormonde Woman is probably her best-seller, with enveloping notes of black hemlock, underscored with rich jasmine and violet. But Tiare is my personal favourite – with its sparkling citrus and exotic floral notes and a name that sounds like ‘tiara’ – and to be honest when you spray it on, it does feel like you’re wearing one. As the company founder and perfumer (a rare combination) Linda is memorable, punchy and charismatic as the perfumes she creates. When lockdown hit, she instantly pivoted to online, hosting scent discovering sessions remotely with clients from all over the globe. The brand has gone from strength to strength, with many new and exciting scents added to the Ormonde Jayne cannon, as well as a personalisation service, which allows customers to dial up the intensity of their chosen fragrance should they so wish. But it’s the fact many of her staff – together with her lovely PR Sara – have stayed with her for years is a testament to how lovely she is. We chat about how Ormonde Jayne grew out of her obsession with 'unusual' scents and why budget will never stop her from striving for perfection, whether it's creating the most exquisite perfume bottles, or finding the most rare and exotic ingredients the natural world has to offer.

ormondejayne.com

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Sarah McCartney started out in business at age 7, in her words “buying wooden beads, making them into things and selling them on to my friends.” That is until her horrified mother found out and swiftly put a stop to it. Fortunately this didn’t dampen Sarah's entrepreneurial spirit, and after stints writing for The Guardian, and LUSH (where she was editor of ‘The LUSH Times’), it was writing a novel about a problem-solving perfumer which led her on the path to actual perfumery. She set up 4160Tuesdays in 2010 – its name is taken from the number of Tuesdays we should expect to see if we live to see 80, stressing the importance of making the most of every day.The cheery offbeat branding of 4160 Tuesdays is everywhere you look not least in the perfumes themselves with names like “The Sexiest Scent on the Planet Ever”, “ Damn Rebel Bitches” and “Tarts Knicker Drawer.” Growing up in Tyneside, Sarah’s dry northern wit and straightforward approach makes the world of perfume far less intimidating than its normal shiny department store dwellings. She is also co-author of The Perfume Companion - The Definitive Guide to Choosing Your Next Scent, that she wrote with perfume writer Samantha Scriven. Last year, the book was a finalist in the UK Fragrance Foundation Jasmine Awards.Sarah is described by fragrance writer and expert Lizzie Ostrom as a “punk perfumer” (although she describes herself as more of a "folk perfumer") and she can be credited as one of the brands successfully combining fragrance with tongue-in-cheek British humour – even if this doesn't always translate elsewhere! We talk about her career journey, what she learned from Mark Constantine at LUSH and the challenges of building an indie perfume brand "using her own voice".

4160tuesdays.com

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Social media: @violalevy @smartbeautycreative

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Fragrance maven Olivia Da Costa is yet another colourful addition to the wonderful world of British perfumery. She is the founder of luxury scent brand Olfactive O, where each perfume pays tribute to a fragrance family, from floral to woody, to fruity to gourmand. The latter was nominated for a prestigious Fragrance Foundation award, and the range is stocked in Les Senteurs - one of London’s poshest perfume boutiques.It will also soon be making its television debut on QVC, with Olivia gracing our screens as a guest presenter following in the footsteps of Joan Rivers and Martha Stewart.Olfactive O perfumes are designed to be warm and inclusive, reflecting Olivia’s modern orthodox Jewish upbringing, where food was a big part of family life. In previous interviews she has said “There's so much synergy between perfume and food, and probably a lot of my cultural heritage has subconsciously seeped into the perfumes I create!” And as someone who has tried more perfumes than I’ve had hot dinners, I can totally attest to that. We chat about how she developed her business and her brand, making mistakes with big agencies, our mutual obsession with the film 'Joy' with Jennifer Lawrence and what it takes to get a brand on QVC.

olfactiveo.com

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Social media: @violalevy @smartbeautycreative

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Today, we're talking to Arooba Anwar, founder of Arooba Beauty and an expert in the Middle Eastern beauty market. With Euromonitor International valuing this market at over $46 billion, projected to reach $60 billion by 2025, it undoubtedly has lucrative potential – especially if you're a brand founder. Arooba Beauty launched into the UAE last year followed by a UK launch this February. Arooba herself is based in Dubai, and the brand reflects her own cultural heritage and the needs of makeup users in this region which we'll delve into. The range focuses on eye makeup palettes, with eyes being identified as the most expressive feature among Middle Eastern women. Their formulas are dubbed "skincare/makeup for the eyes", and star Middle Eastern botanical ingredients with skincare benefits. There are so many reasons why it makes sense for beauty brands to tap into the Middle Eastern market, but as Arooba points out, it's important to understand the variety of cultural differences and sensitivities in this region and adapt your messaging accordingly. We really enjoyed this chat and I hope you will too.

aroobabeauty.com

At SBC, we work a little differently to the traditional agency model, based on Viola's experiences working at such agencies as a copywriter. She witnessed firsthand the pitfalls of the retainer model: bloated budgets, lagging timelines, and inefficient use of creative talent. These challenges not only inflated costs but also hampered productivity, particularly for smaller brands with limited budgets. In this first of a three-part miniseries, she talks about what led her to create the Smart Beauty Method.

smartbeautycreative.com

@smartbeautycreative

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Beauty journalist and copywriter Keysha Davis brings over 20 years of industry experience to the table. She has collaborated with numerous hair and makeup brands and her byline has appeared in a wide range of publications, including Glamour, Stylist, Hairdressers Journal, and Black Beauty and Hair. Additionally, she writes trend reports for Cosmetics Design Europe so it’s safe to say she knows how to sift through a multitude of press releases and identify compelling brand stories. Keysha excels in advising on the best ways to approach journalists, particularly in the realm of Black beauty and hair. In addition to her freelancing work, she is also working with us here at Smart Beauty Creative on a new offering, providing consultancy and auditing services to refine your brand's messaging and boost its appeal to a diverse market. For more details, email [email protected]

https://www.instagram.com/msquiche/

This week, we dive into the exciting world of rebranding with a spotlight on Huda Kattan, the influencer-turned-beauty mogul behind Huda Beauty. Huda has just unveiled a sleek new look for her brand, sharing all the details in a YouTube video about the rebrand and why it was absolutely necessary.

In this episode, we'll explore the reasons behind Huda Beauty's stunning transformation and discuss why so many of our clients are eager to revamp their brand story, tone of voice, and copy. If you're a founder or CEO wondering if it's time to shake things up, tune in to discover compelling reasons and actionable insights that could give your brand the fresh, vibrant boost it needs.

Imagine your beauty brand proudly displayed on the shelves of SpaceNK and Sephora, turning your dream into a reality. In this episode, we delve into the essential strategies for making this vision come true. We’ll guide you through the art of crafting a compelling brand story that resonates with both consumers and industry leaders. Discover how to elevate your brand’s narrative to highlight its unique strengths and build the authoritative brand copy needed to grab attention from major retailers.

But it doesn’t stop there—sustaining long-term success requires continuous refinement and staying ahead of market trends. We’ll discuss how to perfect your tone of voice, craft captivating messages, and keep your brand story fresh and relevant. Tune in to learn how our expert services can transform your beauty brand into a coveted name on retailer shelves, ensuring a lasting impact in the competitive beauty market.