Explore every episode of the podcast Pass The Torch: Legacies in Jewelry

Solo episode. Nadja on the filter she runs every business decision through, and her honest take on Katerina Perez's Carats and Conversion Instagram selling course.

Blaine Lewis is the founder of New Approach School for Jewelers, based just outside Nashville in a building shaped, fittingly, like a diamond. He came to jewelry the long way. Raised in a blue collar family of metal workers, he was arc welding by thirteen and building ships in Norfolk before he found a metal he loved more than steel.

He began teaching in 1995 and has since trained more than 18,000 students over 32 years, helping pioneer high-magnification instruction in the industry and consulting for some of the most respected names in the trade, including building out Tiffany's bench team. His philosophy is as much about generosity as it is about craft. In a field that once guarded its secrets, Blaine built his career and his school on sharing everything he knows.

In this SNAG × Detroit recap, Nadja moderates The State of the Bench, a conversation about the present and future of life at the bench. She's joined by Jennifer Markas of Jewelers Mutual on the health of the talent pipeline, independent studio artist Casey Sobel on what a bench test really reveals, and Sophia Gallette, a bench jeweler in Harry Winston's high jewelry workshop, on building a career from the ground up.

Platinum does not forgive, and Nadja is still learning its temper. In this episode she walks through the week day by day, the wins and the stubborn problems both, and shares what made the platinum class with Blane Lewis worth every effort to attend New Approach School for Jewelers.

Nadja lands from JCK 2026 and reviews her last few days. Working the booth for Pepe Tools and getting to connect with other members of the trade, she is excited and encouraged about the state of the industry.

Moving unexpectedly, I needed a new place for my shop. Tour coming soon!

In this episode of Pass The Torch: Legacies and Jewelry, I travel to Taos, New Mexico for my first-ever visit and sit down with Peter Gilroy — jeweler, machinist, climber, and the owner of Bonny Doon Tools, where he continues the legacy of innovation in hydraulic presses and tools for the jewelry industry.

Bonny Doon Manual Press:

https://www.riogrande.com/product/bonny-doon-classic-20-ton-manual-hydraulic-press--ram/110501GP?code=110501&objectID=110501&queryID=c4668850e906c73d37556e787b974214

Bonny Doon Starter Kit: https://www.riogrande.com/product/bonny-doon-intro-starter-kit/110605GP?code=110605&objectID=110605&queryID=4ad41333b89fbcae3ed8c4b2201dd207

I’m bringing you along for my first real experience breaking down what it takes to take your jewelry to a craft show and have it be a successful event for your business. I spent several days at artisan jeweler Michael Boyd’s booth, and both Michael and his assistant Josie generously shared so much of their knowledge with me. We get into setup, displays, and all the things you don’t realize until you’re in it. This episode is brought to you by Pepe Tools.pepetools.com

Link to Saw Blade Organizer: https://pepetools.com/products/kerf-saw-blade-organizer-dispenser?variant=34796291719319&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid&utm_campaign=22802381515&utm_content=&utm_term=&gadid=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22798664561&gbraid=0AAAAADo-zVPSS_FnKFnVRE63gHPOOgPKb&gclid=CjwKCAjwtcHPBhADEiwAWo3sJvAN7oFdbbWsazDyE1DvcDw0PQza8s2EWXXCWP-qs4E4LOqVqQ9JZhoChdEQAvD_BwE

Link to Nano Blades: https://pepetools.com/products/nano-jewelers-saw-blades

In this episode of Pass The Torch: Legacies in Jewelry, I sit down with Katerina Perez—one of the most influential voices in the global jewelry industry.

Known for her sharp eye, fearless opinions, and deep love for craftsmanship, Katerina has built a platform that bridges heritage maisons and emerging designers alike. But behind the polished world of high jewelry is a story of risk, reinvention, and an unwavering commitment to authenticity.

We talk about what it really takes to build a respected voice in an industry rooted in tradition, how storytelling shapes the value of jewelry, and why standing firm in your perspective matters.

This conversation is about more than jewelry. It’s about legacy, taste, courage, and the responsibility that comes with influence.

In this episode of Pass The Torch, Nadja moderates a Lincoln–Douglas style debate between two voices in the jewelry world, Jean Paul (JP) and Michael Robinson, centered on a timely question:Does the integration of AI in jewelry design undermine the integrity of creativity?Taking the affirmative position, JP argues that AI functions as a tool that expands creative possibilities, allowing designers to explore ideas faster while keeping vision, intention, and artistic judgment at the center of the process.Taking the opposing position, Michael defends traditional craftsmanship, emphasizing the importance of hand fabrication, learned technique, and the lineage of artisanal skill that has defined jewelry making for generations.Structured with opening statements, rebuttals, and a live crossfire discussion, the debate moves beyond theory into a passionate exchange about authorship, authenticity, and the future of the craft.As the conversation unfolds, both perspectives challenge each other—and the listener—to consider a larger question: As technology enters the studio, what truly defines creativity in jewelry design?
This Podcast is sponsored by Pepe Tools: https://pepetools.com/

What happened in Arizona? Not much after I got sick.

However, there is a lot to look forward to! These are some of the goodies I returned with as well as a personal update and a vision for the content to come.

In this solo episode, Nadja returns to Pass the Torch: Legacies in Jewelry to talk candidly about a brutal platinum project that pushed her to the edge of her skill, patience, and resolve. It’s a story about being humbled, bruised, and very aware of her limits and choosing to stay in it anyway. She also shares what it means to lock in for a serious, intense year ahead and prepares to step onto the Tucson gem show stage for the first time carrying both fresh lessons and a sharpened vision. Season 2 kicks off with brutal honesty, a deeper look at the cost of mastery, the discipline behind legacy, and what it really takes to keep showing up to the bench. Messy, funny, and unapologetically real, this episode sets the tone for a season of hard lessons and bold momentum. 

In this episode of Pass The Torch: Legacies in Jewelry, Nadja sits down with Melanie Grant to trace the path that led to The Jewelry Book. Melanie shares her background, how she came to jewelry through media and editorial work, and the experiences that shaped her. Together, they unpack why this book needed to exist, how it was built, and what it means to document jewelry with intention. 

In this engaging conversation, Nolan Sponsler and Stephanie Elsperman, the dynamic duo behind Deep River Jewelry Design, share their journey of love, partnership, and craftsmanship. They discuss how their individual strengths complement each other in their business, the importance of communication and conflict resolution, and their vision for the future of their jewelry brand. The couple emphasizes the significance of client experience, the art of pricing handmade jewelry, and their aspirations to educate and uplift other craftsmen in the industry. They also delve into the nuances of social media marketing and storytelling, providing valuable insights for aspiring jewelers.

Shelly Sergent is a celebrated curator, storyteller, and lifelong advocate for the beauty and significance of colored gemstones. Based in Phoenix, she serves as the Collection Manager of the renowned Somewhere in the Rainbow gemstone and jewelry collection—a privately held, museum-caliber assemblage dedicated to educating the public and elevating appreciation for fine gems and artisan-crafted jewelry. Under her stewardship, the collection has traveled to museums, galleries, and institutions across the country, inspiring thousands with its mission to preserve and share exceptional artistry.

With more than 35 years in the jewelry industry, Shelly’s journey began at age sixteen as a holiday gift-wrap girl at Zales Jewelers. From those early days, she quickly rose through roles in sales, service, philanthropy, and management, fueled by an unmistakable passion for gems, design, and heartfelt client connection.. Her work bridges historical appreciation, modern craftsmanship, and gemological excellence, making her a respected figure within both the trade and museum communities.

I’m honored to call Shelly a dear friend and to welcome her as a guest on Pass The Torch: Legacies in Jewelry, where she brings her signature warmth, insight, and wonder to our conversation about the stories gems can tell.

Nadja visited Tomales, CA to study design with Alan Revere for a weekend workshop.

In this episode of Pass The Torch: Legacies in Jewelry, we step inside the world of the Grand Masters class—an immersive two-week intensive designed to challenge and inspire jewelers at the highest level. Though I wasn’t in the studio myself, I gathered insights straight from those who were. Teacher Michael Robinson, along with participants James Pettit, Sean Smokovitch, Matt Tuggle, and Sarah Williams, share their personal reflections, biggest takeaways, and the lasting impact this unique experience left on their craft.

Bummer. I am ready to talk about it. What is next?

Alan Revere holds a unique position in the jewelry community, with one foot firmly planted as an award-winning designer and the other as one of the country’s most prominent jewelry educators. With degrees in psychology and art, and the influence of the Woodstock experience, Alan traveled to Pforzheim, Germany where he received formal training as a goldsmith. From 1970 to 1995, Alan Revere designed and created a signature line of award-winning jewelry which sold in stores and galleries nationwide and overseas. As a teacher, Alan founded the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco, and from 1979 to 2017 he and his staff trained thousands of students to find successful careers as jewelers, designers and teachers around the globe.Alan’s jewelry appears in books and magazines. His work is included in the Pforzheim Jewelry Museum (Germany), the Gemological Institute of America Museum in Carlsbad and the Oakland Museum of California. Alan is the author of seven instructional books, a hundred articles and a series of DVDs for goldsmiths and jewelers. He is the founder of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group (cjdg.jewelry) and he is past president of the American Jewelry Design Council (ajdc.org). Alan’s innovative earrings from the 1980s show up frequently on the secondary market. Alan Revere has received three lifetime achievement awards. With his deep understanding of the field and his broad influence on the contemporary jewelry industry, it is no wonder that Alan is revered as, “A master’s master.”Upon closing the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, Alan retired from teaching. A few months later, Alan was invited to join a small new Facebook Group with 6 members called Let’s Make Professional Jewelry. Alan now leads the group of 24,000 people from over 158 countries, who are replicating the projects from his book, Professional Jewelry Making.

Liviu Mocan is a Romanian sculptor whose work is rooted in faith, resilience, and remembrance. Born and raised under the oppressive Communist regime of Nicolae Ceaușescu, Liviu came of age in a time when creativity was feared, censored, and surveilled. Artists were expected to serve the state—or remain silent.In December 1989, the Romanian Revolution erupted, sparked by student protests in the city of Timișoara. As the protests spread, the regime responded with brutal violence. In Cluj-Napoca, where Liviu lived and worked, college students were shot and killed in the streets by government forces—a massacre that marked a turning point in the fall of the dictatorship.Years later, Liviu was commissioned to create a series of sculptural memorials placed exactly where those students were murdered. These pieces are not just monuments—they are acts of dialogue with God and with history. They carry grief, honor sacrifice, and testify to the sacredness of human courage in the face of tyranny.Liviu’s art continues to explore themes of justice, hope, and spiritual identity. For him, sculpture is not just form—it is prayer.
 To see the short film about sculptor Liviu Mocan — released in 2007 and produced by my mom, Rochelle de Sa Raimao — click this link: https://youtu.be/_BO__IKvlVY

The Osmium Institute is the global authority on osmium—the rarest and most valuable precious metal in the world. Dedicated to the scientific authentication, documentation, and ethical trade of crystalline osmium, the Institute serves as the central certifying body for jewelers, investors, and collectors worldwide. Through education, research, and industry partnerships, the Osmium Institute ensures transparency and trust in the osmium market while promoting the metal’s unique beauty and structural integrity. With offices and certified partners in over 30 countries, the Institute is at the forefront of introducing this extraordinary element into the worlds of fine jewelry, watchmaking, and strategic investment.

The world doesn't need more jewelry. Why become a jeweler?

Andrew Slesinger is a sixth-generation diamond dealer and the owner of Rough Diamond World, a New York-based wholesale company specializing in natural rough diamonds. Raised in the traditions of the diamond trade, Andrew’s path was shaped from a young age by the values of trust, precision, and quiet excellence passed down through his family.Operating out of Manhattan’s famed Diamond District, Andrew has built a reputation as a discerning eye in the world of rough—sourcing, evaluating, and moving diamonds through tightly held industry relationships. He represents a lineage of old-school expertise while navigating the pressures of a rapidly modernizing market. Known for his candor, integrity, and deep respect for the craft, Andrew remains committed to keeping the heritage of diamond dealing alive—one handshake, one stone, and one honest deal at a time.

Justin K Prim is a lapidary artist, educator, and gemcutting history scholar known for his precision faceting and design-forward approach to gemstone cutting. Based in France, Justin brings a rare combination of deep historical knowledge and modern craftsmanship to his work—cutting each stone not just for brilliance, but with intention, story, and artistry in mind.A graduate of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and a seasoned instructor, Justin has taught gem cutting at internationally respected institutions and is passionate about preserving the legacy of lapidary arts. His work bridges cultures and centuries—drawing from ancient techniques, modern machinery, and a lifetime of studying the human relationship with gemstones.Whether he's researching historic gem cuts, collaborating with fine jewelers, or shaping a custom design on the wheel, Justin’s work reflects a reverence for the natural material and a devotion to the beauty that lies beneath the surface.

Linda Kozloff-Turner is Owner and Designer of Christine Marguerite Designs, and author of the book, 100 Women of Jewelry.In this episode, we dive deep into the making of the book: the powerful stories that emerged, the emotional and artistic connections she forged, and what she learned about the resilience, creativity, and community of women in jewelry. It’s a conversation about legacy, visibility, and the power of being seen.

Nadja reflects on her bench career and the challenges ahead. This episode benchmarks the first 100 days of Pass The Torch: Legacies of Jewelry.

Brady Mesch is a distinguished designer and goldsmith known for his masterful hand engravings and exceptional high jewelry creations. Drawing inspiration from classical design while embracing contemporary aesthetics, his work reflects a refined balance of tradition and innovation.

With extensive experience collaborating with esteemed jewelers and training under internationally recognized masters, Brady has cultivated a deep expertise in hand fabrication. His meticulously crafted, one-of-a-kind pieces are a testament to his dedication to artistry and craftsmanship.

From his workshop and showroom in Evergreen, Colorado, Brady continues to create timeless jewelry that embodies elegance, precision, and enduring beauty.

Chapin Dimond is a Colorado-based metalsmith and jeweler whose work fuses hand fabrication with an uncanny ability to MacGyver his way through nearly any obstacle. His jewelry is meaningful, personal, and deeply rooted in craftsmanship and creative problem-solving.

Born and raised in Louisville, Colorado, Chapin began his journey into metalsmithing in 2003 during high school, supported by a grant from Impact on Education. He apprenticed under master jeweler Kit Hollingshead from 2003 to 2010, laying the foundation for his artistic path.

Chapin earned a BFA in Metalsmithing and Jewelry Design from Metropolitan State University of Denver in 2009, where his senior thesis was funded by the Nagel Award. After graduation, he launched his business, C Dimond Designs, participating in art exhibitions and local festivals. By 2015, he formalized his venture as C Dimond LLC, and by 2023, his work was showcased in seven galleries across Colorado, complemented by appearances at fine art festivals.

Chapin’s creations are inspired by nature and the transformative power of fire and metal. Using techniques like mokume gane alongside traditional hand tools, he creates jewelry that tells personal stories and captures moments in time. His collections—such as Nature, Vein, Crackle, and Bubbles—reflect his commitment to blending organic forms with human expression.

Beyond his studio work, Chapin is dedicated to education and community engagement. Since 2017, he has taught workshops at the Boulder Metalsmithing Association and other venues, offering both group classes and one-on-one instruction. He remains active in organizations like the Colorado Metalsmithing Association (CoMA), Boulder Metalsmithing Association (BoMA), and the Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG).

Chapin continues to design and create jewelry in his Louisville studio, inviting clients to collaborate on custom pieces that become cherished heirlooms. His philosophy—"Swing that hammer, light that torch, and make that magic happen"—encapsulates his passion for the craft and his hands-on approach to artistry.

For more information or to explore his work, visit cdimond.com.

Michael Robinson is not just a jeweler; he is an extraordinary artisan whose creations are celebrated as museum-quality treasures. With a career spanning over thirty years, Michael has earned a reputation as one of the most exceptional jewelers in the world, renowned for his unparalleled craftsmanship and visionary designs.

Michael's journey into the realm of jewelry began as a child, where he was captivated by the beauty of gemstones and the intricate dance of light within them. His exceptional skill set, combined with his innate talent and passion for innovation, truly sets him apart in the industry.

Michael's work epitomizes the fusion of timeless elegance and modern artistry. Each piece he creates tells a story, meticulously crafted with an eye for detail that transforms raw materials into breathtaking works of art. Known for his remarkable ability to create single-author jewels of museum quality, his designs are not just adornments; they are treasures.

Renowned for his ability to set and transform the finest gemstones, Michael's collections have graced the red carpets and jewelry exhibitions around the globe. He has collaborated with elite brands and has a loyal following among celebrities and connoisseurs who seek the extraordinary. His pieces often become family heirlooms, cherished for generations.

Beyond his status as a leading jeweler, Michael is a passionate mentor and advocate for the art of jewelry making. He dedicates his time to nurturing the next generation of artisans, imparting his wisdom through inspiring workshops and engaging lectures. His commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability reflects a deep respect for the earth and the art form he loves.

In a world where trends come and go, Michael Robinson stands as a beacon of excellence, continuously pushing the boundaries of creativity while honoring the rich traditions of jewelry making. His legacy is not just in the exquisite pieces he creates, but in the inspiration he provides to aspiring jewelers and lovers of fine art everywhere.

Michael Robinson is not just a jeweler; he is an extraordinary artisan whose creations are celebrated as museum-quality treasures. With a career spanning over thirty years, Michael has earned a reputation as one of the most exceptional jewelers in the world, renowned for his unparalleled craftsmanship and visionary designs.

Michael's journey into the realm of jewelry began as a child, where he was captivated by the beauty of gemstones and the intricate dance of light within them. His exceptional skill set, combined with his innate talent and passion for innovation, truly sets him apart in the industry.

Michael's work epitomizes the fusion of timeless elegance and modern artistry. Each piece he creates tells a story, meticulously crafted with an eye for detail that transforms raw materials into breathtaking works of art. Known for his remarkable ability to create single-author jewels of museum quality, his designs are not just adornments; they are treasures.

Renowned for his ability to set and transform the finest gemstones, Michael's collections have graced the red carpets and jewelry exhibitions around the globe. He has collaborated with elite brands and has a loyal following among celebrities and connoisseurs who seek the extraordinary. His pieces often become family heirlooms, cherished for generations.

Beyond his status as a leading jeweler, Michael is a passionate mentor and advocate for the art of jewelry making. He dedicates his time to nurturing the next generation of artisans, imparting his wisdom through inspiring workshops and engaging lectures. His commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability reflects a deep respect for the earth and the art form he loves.

In a world where trends come and go, Michael Robinson stands as a beacon of excellence, continuously pushing the boundaries of creativity while honoring the rich traditions of jewelry making. His legacy is not just in the exquisite pieces he creates, but in the inspiration he provides to aspiring jewelers and lovers of fine art everywhere.

Kindred Lubeck is the owner and creative force behind Artifex Fine Jewelry, where she combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. With a deep appreciation for fine materials and meticulous detail, Kindred's design and hand engraving work reflects both her artistic vision and technical skill. Through Artifex Fine Jewelry, she creates distinctive pieces that celebrate individuality and timeless elegance.

Bob Staley is a seasoned jewelry artisan based in Cartersville, Georgia, with a career spanning over 46 years. Since 1979, Bob has been dedicated to the craft of custom jewelry design and precision repair services.

While known locally for his skill in restoration, Bob’s real niche is in redesign—breathing new life into old pieces. His commitment to sustainability is evident in his passion for reimagining existing jewelry. His work blends traditional craftsmanship with advanced technologies like CAD design, 3D printing, and laser welding—an area where he’s particularly respected in the jewelry industry, even if, as he likes to joke, “the younger generation probably doesn’t know I exist”.

In recent years, Bob’s workshop has become a multi-generational venture. His daughter, Victoria Staley, recently completed training at the New Approach School for Jewelers and has joined him at the bench. Under Bob’s mentorship, she’s adding her own creative perspective to their shared practice while incorporating social media to give the world a behind the scenes view of their work.

In both his hometown and the broader jewelry world, he’s respected for his expertise and for his quiet but unwavering commitment to quality.

Jeff Parke is an accomplished engraver with a lifelong passion for artistic expression. Growing up immersed in drawing, writing, and music, Jeff’s creative pursuits took a new direction when he began working as a bench jeweler at his brother’s store. Discovering both a natural talent and a deep love for the craft, Jeff dedicated himself to mastering jewelry work.

His journey led him to study hand engraving, fabrication, wax carving, and diamond setting. With unwavering dedication, Jeff spent countless hours refining his skills, blending private instruction with relentless practice.

Today, Jeff specializes in engraving Rolex watches with his distinctive signature style. With a meticulous eye for detail and unwavering dedication to his craft, Jeff creates intricate designs that transform fine jewelry into exceptional works of art. His engravings reflect a masterful command of traditional techniques, seamlessly blending classic elegance with modern aesthetics.

Michael Boyd is a visionary jewelry artist whose extraordinary creativity has redefined contemporary lapidary work. Renowned for his masterful ability to reimagine how we approach stone cutting, Boyd has developed a distinctive style that fuses metal and stone in ways that are both bold and elegant. His pieces are instantly recognizable — each one a testament to his unparalleled skill, artistic intuition, dedication to play, and deep understanding of materials. With decades of experience, Boyd has not only earned a place among the most respected names in artisan jewelry but has also inspired countless makers through his workshops and mentorship. His work, celebrated in prestigious exhibitions, galleries, and publications, continues to set a remarkable standard in the world of jewelry design.

Kimberly Collins is a renowned gem dealer and jewelry designer, celebrated for her exquisite colored gemstone collections and fine jewelry line.

David Geller is a 14th-generation jeweler and former owner of a retail store in Atlanta. He is known for creating “Geller’s Blue Book,” a jewelry repair pricing guide, and for his expertise in QuickBooks setup for jewelers. He has recently announced his retirement. 

Jamie McLandsborough – Master Jeweler, Metalsmith, and Educator

With nearly two decades of experience in the jewelry industry, Jamie McLandsborough is a highly skilled jeweler, metalsmith, and educator known for his expertise in custom design, repair, and traditional goldsmithing techniques. His passion for the craft began in high school and evolved into a distinguished career dedicated to both artistry and precision.

Jamie spent 18 years at the renowned Gusterman’s Silversmiths in Denver’s historic Larimer Square, where he honed his skills in creating custom jewelry and restoring heirloom pieces with meticulous attention to detail. His work reflects a deep respect for traditional metalsmithing while embracing modern techniques to push the boundaries of design.

Beyond the bench, Jamie is a dedicated educator, sharing his knowledge through workshops and classes at institutions such as the Boulder Metalsmithing Association and Clear Creek Academy. His teaching focuses on preserving the integrity of handcrafting while equipping students with the technical skills to thrive in the evolving jewelry industry.

As a passionate advocate for craftsmanship and local artisans, Jamie continues to explore new creative avenues while fostering a love for jewelry-making in future generations. His commitment to quality, innovation, and education makes him a respected voice in the world of metalsmithing.

Jason Marchiafava is a third-generation artist and craftsman renowned for his mastery in jewelry fabrication, hand engraving, and stone setting. From an early age, he immersed himself in his family’s jewelry business, cultivating a profound passion for working with precious metals and gemstones.

In 1999, Jason embarked on his journey into hand engraving, dedicating himself full-time to fine gun and knife engraving by 2002, with a particular focus on Italian techniques. His pursuit of excellence led him to study under world-renowned master engravers, including training in Bulino engraving in Italy and intaglio engraving under the Chief Engraver of the Bureau of Printing and Engraving in the United States. These experiences honed his skills in banknote engraving and micro chasing, instilling a deep appreciation for quality, detail, and disciplined craftsmanship.

Jason’s expertise garnered the attention of Tiffany & Co., where he served as the company’s first Master Craftsman. He later advanced to the role of Director of Process Development and Technology at their historic Fifth Avenue flagship store in New York City, contributing significantly to the creation of the famed Blue Book Masterpieces.

In 2017, Jason transitioned from his corporate role to establish his own studio, J.Fava, located within the New Approach School for Jewelers in Arrington, Tennessee. There, he continues to create museum-quality high jewelry of his own design and shares his extensive knowledge through educational content for the jewelry industry. His commitment to preserving traditional handcrafting techniques while embracing modern innovations has solidified his reputation as a leading figure in the world of fine jewelry and metalsmithing.