Explore every episode of the podcast Jam Crack - The Niall Grimes Climbing Podcast

I had the pleasure of working alongside James "Caff" MacHaffie for a few years and never tired of his dark and boundless energy. One Monday morning I came into the office and, mockinly, asked if he had "Done any 9s this last week?"

He had to stop and think about it. That's the level he was climbing at. And not only has he done numerous E9s and E10s, including many first ascents, but his solo climbing will never be matched, he has redpointed 9a (twice), has climbed every route in the book Extreme Rock, has bouldered 8a and put on loads of raves in the quarries.

Beat that, Jokob Schubert!

Support this week comes from Summit Financial Services. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0937 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

Part 2 of the Rachel Pearce chat where we hear about her ascent of the Indian Face as well as loads more about her. Enjoy x

North-Wales-based trad machine Rachel Pearce set headlines this summer with her ascent of the Indian Face. Indian Face, the country's first E9, had only had ten ascents in the 40 years since it was first done, practically every ascent making the headlines. This huge slab climb on the sombre cliffs of Cloggy stands for many as the ultimate in the committing end of trad climbing.

With her ascent Rachel became to first woman to succeed on a the climb. Yet it is only the latest in a long ticklist of bold and desperate climbs on the mountains and seacliffs in her home turf.

Hear about Rachel's background and the climbs that led to this monumental achievement. Much crack.

An honour to have climbing legend Steve Bancroft who, along with John Allen, headed up the Gritstone Renaissance of the 1970s. Many stories and slices of life from that golden era.

Hear the tales behind Moon Crack, Edge Lane, Profit of Doom, Hairless Heart, Wall of Horrors, London Wall and many more. 

A true view behind the history.

Thanks to this week's sponsors:

Summit Financial Services

https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

A lame account of how I went to the North Face's DWS event in London the other week and failed to corner anyone for the Jam. Sorry. But at least I survived.

Tom Livingstone is a hugely driven mountaineer, alpinist and rock climber. He has redpointed up to 8b+ and trad E9 and is best-known internationally for a first ascent on Latok 1 for which he won the acclaimed Piolets d'Or.

She may be small but she likes to go tall! At 5 foot 2, Tina Breslin has to get creative to solve the sequences on the stunning highballs on remote gritstone crags of North Yorkshire. But when she does, she find a peace and silence of mind that is impossible to find in everyday life. Let's hear her crack.

Thanks to this week's sponsors:

Summit Financial Services

https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

Anthony King talks about his book, Ascent, which weaves his personal experiences with the rise and change of rock climbing in Britain over a century.

Part 2 of this incredible chat. Part 1 in previous show.

Thanks to this week's sponsors:

Summit Financial Services

https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

Jason Pickles spent the best part of a decade in Yosemite hanging with the fabled Stone Monkeys. Here we hear about Jason's times there and time spent ith Dean Potter, Leo Houlding, Alex Honnold and others. Banging.

Thanks to this week's sponsors:

Summit Financial Services

https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

As official photographer for World Climbing, Lena gets to witness the action we don't. Let's hear about what she sees when she looks outside and in.

Just me, folks. Reflecting on some of the lessons climbing has taught me and playing some beautiful music x

Welsh-born Eben is passionate about wild places and his and others' rights to be there. We chat about his Welsh childhood and how that and the outdoors have shaped him. Together we look to understand the cultural and social world of North Wales in the face of it's huge popularity with visitors.

Second part of this lovely chat with the greatest climber who has ever lived. In this one we dig deep into his flashing of 8C boulder problems, thoughts on going harder again and about climbers who really impress him. 

The world's greatest climber returns to the show to talk Olympics, B.I.G, YouTube, bouldering and more.

Part 2 of the Ben Bransby chat. Talking about losing his dad on an expedition, Patagonia, Leeds, Chris Wentworth, family and mental illness, not climbing all of Stanage. Brilliant.

Trad master, old-school hone and all out legend Ben Bransby spills his bean. Ben pushed the cutting-edge of trad climbing, going ground-up on E9 when E9 was top of the pops. His easy attitude and spirited approach made his ascents so much more then numbers alone could tell. Cool guy, check it out.

Elite climber Mat Wright is cut from a different cloth than your average professional crimp-jockey. We hear about Mat's journey from a sometimes-fractious childhood all the way to 9a, 8C and E11 (not really). Mat opens up about some frisky situations along the way to enlightenment. Much crack.

A classic Jam Crack story episode from 2016. Chris Schulte reads the classic tale of climbing exploration in the American desert. Pure gold.

Scottish winter climbing activist and photographer Hamish Frost traces his career in the outdoors, thinks about his art and delves into his experience of coming out in the world of climbing.

One from the vaults of 2021.  Taylor Parson's incredible story of transition from world-class boulderer to mum of three and the trauma and passion that mapped the way. Trigger warning: suicide references. 

Part two of this double. Hear about the origins of speedy aid and how the pair got on on their expedition to this beautiful mountain.

In 1995 two of UK trad climbing's brightest stars left Llanberis for Pakistan's Trango Tower. Paul Pritchard and Adam Wainwright honed their skills and boldness on the sea cliffs of North Wales. Their lives led them onto bigger things. In part one of this two-parter we trace a line through their friendship, what climbing was like in the early 1990s and their motivations to go to Pakistan.

I set off to introduce the Pritchard wainwright podcast but accidentally talk crap for 50 minute. Apologies all round. Big love x

Pembroke is surely the UK's favourite climbing holiday destination. This year Belgian Siebe Vanhee came to visit. Between visits to the pub and nights' camping in the field, he amassed a mindblowing ticklist of onsights and flashes of many of the country's best trad routes. Hear all about that, as well as being beaten by the Dawn Wall and future plans at 7000m.

Thanks to this week's sponsors, Summit Financial Services

https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

The second part of the John Dunne chat talking Parthian Shot and life after injury.

Here's a true heavyweight of the 80s and 90s sport and trad world. John Dunne punched out top level sport routes at Malham and a series of trad routes that are still the country's finest ticks. He ruffled feathers along the way. Let's hear his crack.

Thanks to this week's sponsors:

Summit Financial Services

https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

The BMC

25% off your first year of BMC membership here: https://bit.ly/4nqAzWJ

Lincoln Knowles, a 21-year-old US-based TikTokker, YouTuber, FreeSoloist and RageBaiter, tells us all about his funny videos where he annoys the shit out of people. Let's hear his crack.

El Cap is still the crucible of hard aid climbing, where devotees come to test themselves and learn. Oliver Trippett is one such disciple and he tells us of this vertical world.

Artist, developer, shaper, traveller and all round baller, Jason Kehl, AKA Cryptochild, tells us about his quirks and works and his love of developing beautiful boulder problems in the American desert.

Good friend of the show Milena Mühlen reads a self-penned story, Climbing and Womanhood, telling of a recent experience.

My old mucker Andy chatting North Wales in 90s, soloing, freedom, grit, history and rambling. So warm.

A journey through cancer for committed climber, Carolyn Young. One of the many stories from Marsha Belaeva's new book, We Are Subculture.

Endless shit talking. Young Matt makes me listen to his opinions on all aspects of modern climbing. Funniest ever swear to god!

Ricky Bell swept his paintbrush of adventure over Irish trad climbing to create so many beautiful leads of the highest quality in the Mournes, Burren and Fair Head. Outstanding! He documented his and his friends' shenanigans in a bunch of fun and soulful films, full of joy and vibe. He's a Celtic soul brother. Hear his crack.

Chris is the defininig voice and spirit of Jam Crack. He's back again with another reading, this time his own story, Patience. It's all about trying o be a climber and a person in the world. Beautiful.

Part 2 of the amazing Steph Davis interview. Part 1 is episode 174

This star of US adventure climbing shone brightly in the early 2000s with big free ascents on El Cap at a time when few ventured there without aid. Big solos, desert sandstone crack testpieces, expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Baffin and Paragonia, amongst others, made her one of the most experienced adventureclimbers of her day. Later years saw the adventures continue with the embracing of base jumping and wingsuit flying.

Beyond all these has  lain a thoughtful and considered approach, always ready to self check and ask twice. Skills that surely came to the fore during tough times around loss of sponsorship and latterly, personal tragedy. 

Steph lays it all out with a thousand laughs along the way.  Such fun, so honest. Check this, part one of this two-part interview. 

Support in this episode from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0935 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

Niall Grimes reads some of his own stories about Ireland's County Donegal in celebration of St Patrick's Day. Plus Mary Shiels' poetry and Brian's medley. Slainte!

With well over two millions subscibers to his YouTube channel, Magnus Midtbø is one of the most famous climbers in the world. But what lies behind this Norwegian tough guy. Magnus joined Jam Crack in a live event at the KMF to find out.

Support from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0935 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

Lifer, and then some! Lakes legend Rob Matheson was at the forefront of Lake District standards since the 1970s, rarely taking his foot off the gas of hard trad climbing. Skill, boldness and passion took him up the area's classics. His fire burns just as bright today as he aims himself towards one of the UK's most terrifying E7s. He's funny, kind and inspiring. Hear his crack!

London-based professional climbing coach Xian Goh has spent years observing climbers climb, paying attention to how they move and how they think. She has now converted her knowledge and experience into a book on climbing movementcalled Smooth. Let's listen up!

He's had his dinner, he's met the Mexicans, and now he's back. German world shaker Alex Huber joins the Jam for the third part of his conversations. Amazing.

Support from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0935 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

Second part of the Julian Lines interview. Part one is previous episode.

Pure soul. Julian is one of the UK's most extraordinary climbers, a stoic toejammer, a ramrod individualist, an aesthetic ascetic. Film star, prize-winning author, hermit. Get in!

Support (thank you) from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years.

Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0937 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/

A chilled mix for a chilled day. Tracks: Be/Common, We Came Far/Paqua, Dominos/Donald Byrd, Black Gold of the Sunn/Minnie Ripperton/4Hero, Sometimes I'm Wrong/Curtis Mayfield/Luxxury, Talking Blue/Bob Marley, Heaven/Rolling Stones, Hungry for your Love/Van Morrison, Wish I Didn't Miss You/Angie Stone, Barry/T Markarkis, Swimming Places/Julian Jabre, Lazer Worshippers, Take me Higher/Fertile Griound, Only You/Nookie, Heartbreaker/Crazy P, Early in the Morning/Nilsson.

Enjoyyyy x

Competition beast Zoë Peetermans is current British Bouldering champ and lead vice champ. She climbs like she means it and is magic to watch and listen to. Check out her crack.

 NGL - I set out to do the intro to the Zoë Peetermans interview and just kept talking - sorry not sorry. The real interview is on its way ASAP Includes haikus from Anesu and Mike.

Tobin Sorenson was one of America's boldest and most gifted climbers of the 1970s. Tobin's friend Rick Accomazzo comes on the show to tell us about Tobin and why he chose to write a book about him.

With her ascent of New Base Line, Siara Fabbri joined the world elite of women climbing 8B+. A huge achievement for someone who started climbing at 21 and who works full time in cutting edge science. Antimatter, anyone?