In this episode, we unravel the origins of the qipao or cheongsam. This garment is inextricably linked to the formation of modern China and has origins going back to at least the Qing Dynasty. Join us as we explore its role as a symbol of elegance and empowerment.

If you have any requests, questions, or simply feel like saying hello (we're friendly and Mr. B won't bite), drop us a line at historyunhemmedpodcast@gmail.com.

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RESOURCES:

• Finnane, Antonia. Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation. New York: Columbia University Press, 2008.
• Lee, Chor Lin and Chung May Khuen. In the Mood for Cheongsam: A Social History, 1920s-Present. Singapore: Editions Didier Millet, 2012.
• Ling, Wessie and S Segre Reinach (eds). Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape. London/Oxford: I.B. Tauris/Bloomsbury, 2018.
• Ling, Wessie. Fusionable Cheongsam. Hong Kong: Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2007.
• Sim, Cheryl. Wearing the Cheongsam: Dress and Culture in a Chinese Diaspora. London & New York: Bloomsbury, 2019.
• Steel, Valerie and John S. Major. China Chic: East Meets West. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1999.

Join us as we explore the fascinating and multi-faceted history of the polka dot. These innocuous little spots contain multitudes, from technological advancements to a risqué dance craze.

If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠historyunhemmedpodcast@gmail.com⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ 

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THANK YOU!

RESOURCES: 

Johns Hopkins University. "Introducing Data Science: Big Data, Machine Learning, and More, Free Online Textbook." https://jscholarship.library.jhu.edu/items/6cf47d49-4968-46ee-a8f9-c7c8c35b55ac.

Knox, Charles Henry. The Spirit of the Polka. Legare Street Press, 2023.

Kusama, Yayoi and Delphine Arnault, Akira Tatehata, Hans Ulrich Obrist, and Mika Yoshitake. Louis Vuitton Yayoi Kusama. New York: Rizzoli, 2023.

Le Tour de France. "The Polka Dot Jersey." https://www.letour.fr/en/the-jerseys-tour-de-france/the-polka-dot-jersey.

PBS Western Reserve. "The History of Polka: From Europe to Northeast Ohio." ⁠https://www.pbswesternreserve.org/blogs/luminus-stories-about-us/the-history-of-polka-from-europe-to-northeast-ohio/#:~:text=The%20origins%20of%20polka%20are,day%20Czech%20Republic%20and%20Poland⁠.

Stewart, Jude. Patternalia: An Uncovered History of Polka Dots, Stripes, Plaid, Camouflage, and Other Graphic Patterns.  New York: Bloomsbury, 2015. 

Welters, Linda and Cunningham, Patricia A. (eds.). Twentieth-century American Fashion. New York: Berg, 2005. 

EPISODE NOTES:

The shirtwaist emerged in the mid-late nineteenth century. It soon became a symbol of the modern working woman, and by the early twentieth century, shirtwaists were mass manufactured and widely available. However, this would come at a devastating cost to the workers (mostly women) who produced them. On the afternoon of March 25, 1911, fire broke out at the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory in New York City. This would go down in history as one of the worst industrial disasters in American history and its impact would be felt more than a century later.

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RESOURCES:

Bader, Bonnie. East Side Story. New York: Silver Moon Press, 1993.

Cornell University School of Industrial and Labor Relations. Remembering the 1911 Triangle Factory Fire. Online exhibition: http://trianglefire.ilr.cornell.edu/

Dash, Joan. We Shall Not Be Moved: The Women's Factory Strike of 1909. New York: Scholastic, Inc., 1996.

De Angelis, Gina. The Triangle Shirtwaist Company Fire of 1911. Philadelphia: Chelsea House Publishers, 2001.

Greene, Jacqueline Dembar. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire. Minneapolis, Minnesota: Bearport Publishing, 2007.

Gunderson, Jessica. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire. Mankato, Minnesota: Capstone Press, 2006.

Naden, Corinne J. The Triangle Shirtwaist Fire, March 25, 1911: The Blaze that Changed an Industry. New York: Franklin Watts, 1971. 

Sachar, Howard M. A History of the Jews in America. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1992

Sherrow, Victoria. The Triangle Factory Fire. Brookfield, Connecticut: The Millbrook Press, 1995.

Wertheimer, Barbara M. We Were There: The Story of Working Women in America. New York: Pantheon Books, 1997.

EPISODE NOTES:

"It's better to be looked over than overlooked." So was the motto of Nudie's Rodeo Tailors. The company's brash and bombastic frontman Nudie Cohn, an early twentieth-century Ukrainian Jewish immigrant. From humble origins, Nudie carved out a name for himself as the king of sparkly western wear favored by everyone from country crooners to rock and roll royalty.

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RESOURCES:

• Bull, Debby. Hillbilly Hollywood. New York: Rizzoli, 2000.
• George-Warren, Holly and Freedman, Michelle. How the West Was Worn. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2001.

• Greenlaw, M. Jean. Ranch Dressing: The Story of Western Wear. Birmingham, AL: Lodestar Books, 1993.
• Mackenzie, Mairi. Dream Suits: The Wonderful World of Nudie Cohn.  Tielt, Belgium: Lannoo Publishers, 2011.
• Nudie, Jamie. Nudie the Rodeo Tailor: The Life and Times of the Original Rhinestone Cowboy. 

Films:

• Burns, Ken, dir. Country Music. 2019; Florentine Films, WETA. 
• Figueroa, Yuri, dir. Manuel. 2019; Nashville, TN:  El Capitán Films.

EPISODE NOTES:

From humble beginnings in rural Alabama, Ann Cole Lowe rose to become one of the most sought after fashion designers of the twentieth century. Her life story is one of tremendous highs and cruel hardships. Tune in to hear about New York high society's "best kept secret" of the mid-twentieth century.

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RESOURCES:

Brockell, Gillian. “Jackie Kennedy’s Fairy-Tale Wedding Was a Nightmare for Her African American Dress Designer.” The Washington Post. WP Company, August 28, 2019. https://www.washingtonpost.com/history/2019/08/28/jackie-kennedys-fairy-tale-wedding-was-nightmare-her-african-american-dress-designer/
Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly. “The Way We Wed: A Global History of Wedding Fashion.” New York: Hachette Book Group, 2020.
Davis, Nancy, and Amelia Grabowski. “Sewing for Joy: Ann Lowe.” National Museum of American History, August 29, 2019. https://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/lowe.
Hunt-Hurst, Patricia. "The fashion industry." In Diana R. Berry (Ed.) Black Women in America, 2nd Edition, NY: Oxford University Press, 2005.
Kirkham, Pat. Women Designers in the USA, 1900-2000: Diversity and Difference. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2000.
Messner, Kate and Margaret Powell. Only The Best: The Exceptional Life and Fashion of Ann Lowe. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 2022.
Miller, Rosemary Reed. Threads of Time, the Fabric of History: Profiles Of African American Dressmakers And Designers From 1850 To The Present. Washington, DC: Toast and Strawberries Press, 2002.
Minutaglio, Rose. “Ann Lowe Is the Little-Known Black Couturier Who Designed Jackie Kennedy’s Iconic Wedding Dress.” ELLE, October 24, 2019. https://www.elle.com/fashion/a29019843/jackie-kennedy-wedding-dress-designer-ann-lowe/.
Mulvaney, Jay. Kennedy Weddings: A Family Album. New York: St. Martins Press, 2002. 
Powell, Margaret. “The Life and Work of Ann Lowe: Rediscovering ‘Society’s Best Kept Secret.’” MA thesis. The Smithsonian Associates and The Corcoran College of Art + Design, 2012.
Smith, Julia Faye. Something to Prove: Ann Cole Lowe, America’s Forgotten Designer. 2016
Tracy, Kathleen.  Everything Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Book: A Portrait of an American Icon.
Way, Elizabeth. Black Designers in American Fashion. New York: Bloomsbury, 2021.

EPISODE NOTES:
Dressing up in costumes and masks has been at the heart of carnival celebrations since the founding of the city in the 1718. In the twentieth century, new groups emerged challenging the status quo and reshaping the festivities into the celebration that is the biggest tourist draw and the most famous public festivities of the Crescent City.

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Resources:
Campanella, Richard. Geographies if New Orleans. Geographies of New Orleans. Lafayette, LA: University of Louisiana Press, 2006.

Dewulf, Jeroen. From the Kingdom of Kongo to Congo Square: Kongo Dances and the Origins of the Mardi Gras Indians. Lafayette, LA: University of Louisiana Press, 2017.

Kein, Sybil. Creole: The History and Legacy of Louisiana's Free People of Color. Baton Rouge, LA: Louisiana State University Press, 2000.

McQueeney, Kevin. “Zulu: a transnational history of a New Orleans Mardi Gras krewe.” Safundi: The Journal of South African and American Studies 19, no. 2 (2018): 139-163.

Melancon, Trimiko. “The Complicated History of Race and Mardi Gras.” Black Perspectives, February 9, 2018.

Mitchell, Reid. All on a Mardi Gras Day: Episodes in the History of the New Orleans Carnivals. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1999.

Smith, Howard. Unveiling the Muse. Oxford, MS: University of Mississippi Press, 2017.

St. Julien, Aline. Colored Creole: Color Conflict and Confusion in New Orleans. New Orleans: Ahidiana Hibari, 1977.

Stone, Amy. Queer Carnival: Festivals and Mardi Gras in the South. New York: NYU Press, 2022.

Vaz-Deville, Kim Marie. The Babydolls: Breaking the Race and Gender Barriers of the New Orleans Mardi Gras Tradition. Baton Rouge, LA: Louisiana State University Press, 2013.

Vaz-Deville, Kim Marie. Walking Raddy: The Baby Dolls of New Orleans. Oxford, MS: University of Mississippi Press, 2018.

Williams, Nikesha Elise. Mardi Gras Indians. Baton Rouge, LA: LSU Press, 2022.

Movies:Producer, George Ingmire and Julie Gustafson. Director, Aaron Walker. (2010) Bury the Hatchet.

Producer and Director, Michal Pietrzyk. (2018) All on a Mardi Gras Day

EPISODE NOTES:

Every year, one of the biggest parties in the United States takes place in the 300-year-old streets of New Orleans. This episode traces the history of Mardi Gras and its costuming practices in New Orleans up to the twentieth century.

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Resources:

Andrews, George Reid. Afro-Latin America, 1800-2000. New York: Oxford University Press, 2004.

Atkins, Jennifer. New Orleans Carnival Balls: The Secret Side of Mardi Gras 1870-1920. Baton Rouge, LA: LSU Press, 2017.

Barefield, Allana J. “Embracing Black Mardi Gras keeps the culture alive for the next generation.” The Undefeated, March 5, 2019. Accessed February 21, 2022.

Fromont, Cécile, and Michael Iyanaga, eds. Afro-Catholic Festivals in the Americas: Performance, Representation, and the Making of Black Atlantic Tradition. University Park, PA: The Pennsylvania State University Press, 2019.

Gill, James. Lords of Misrule: Mardi Gras and the Politics of Race in New Orleans. Jackson, MS: University Press of Mississippi, 1997.

Ingraham, J.H. The South West by a Yankee (New York: Harper & Bros, 1835.

Lyell, Charles. A Second Visit to the United States of North America. London: J. Murray, 1849.

Miller, Joaquin. “The Three Merry Days of New Oreleans [sic].” The Independent. New York: 5 March 1885.

EPISODE NOTES:

Eat your greens and black eyed peas, make your champagne or whiskey toasts and enjoy some fireworks. The New Year brings with it many traditions, and in many parts of the world that includes wearing red underwear for luck. Tune in to delve into the origins of this tradition and why a little piece of red fabric carries such a huge and varied history!

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Resources:

Boucher, Francois. A History of Costume in the West. London: Thames and Hudson, 1996.

Bruna, Denis ed. Fashioning the Body: An Intimate History of the Silhouette. New York: Bard Graduate Center, 2015.

Butler-Greenfield, Amy. A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire. New York: Harper Collins, 2006.

Chenciner, Robert. Madder Red: A History of Luxury and Trade. Richmond: Curzon Caucasus World, 2000.

Harrington, Cora. In Intimate Detail: How to Choose, Wear, and Love Lingerie. New York: Clarkson Potter, 2018.

Hill, Colleen. Exposed: A History of Lingerie. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2014.

EPISODE NOTES:

It's not the holiday season without a tacky and over-the-top sweater! This episode will examine how the popular festive garment came to be.

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Resources:
Blackman, Anne Marie, and Brian Clark Howard. Rock Your Ugly Christmas Sweater. Philadelphia: Running Press, 2012.

Garber, Megan. “The Ugly Christmas Sweater: Still Ugly, But No Longer Ironic.” The Atlantic, 9 December 2014.

Harris, Moira. “The Ugly Christmas Sweater.” Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion Volume 3. Phyllis G. Tortora (ed.). Farmington Hills, MI: Thomson Gale, 2010.

Klepp, Ingun Grimstad. “A Louse in Court: Norwegian Knitted Sweaters with ‘Lus’ On Big-Time Criminals.” Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance. Joanne Turney (ed.). London: Bloomsbury, 2019.

Miller, Brian, Adam Paulson, and Kevin Wool. Ugly Christmas Sweater Book: The Definitive Guide to Getting Your Ugly On. New York: Abrams Image, 2011.

EPISODE NOTES:

Sort of a continuation on the subject of Episode 9, this episode will explore the rise and subsequent fall of paper fashion trends in Europe and North American through the 20th century. 

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Resources:

Milford-Cottam, Daniel. Fashion in the 1960s. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2020.

Paget, Francis Edward. The Curate of Cumberworth: And the Vicar of Roost. Charleston, SC: Bibiliobazaar, 2008.

Paton, Kathleen. "Paper dresses". In Steele, Valerie (ed.). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Farmington Hills, MI. Thomson Gale, 2005. 

Steele, Valerie. Fifty Years of Fashion. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2000.

Weight, Richard. MOD: From Bebop to Britpop, Britain’s Biggest Youth Movement. New York: Random House, 2013.

Walford, Jonathan. Ready to Tear: Paper Fashions of the 1960s. Cambridge, ON: Kickshaw Productions, 2007.

EPISODE NOTES:  

Though paper is not the first material for clothing we typically think of, it has been used to make garments going back centuries. This episode will explore the that long-lived tradition in Korea and Japan.

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Resources:

All Japan Handmade Washi Association. A Handbook on the Art of Washi: A Collection of Questions and Answers. All Japan Handmade Washi Association: Tokyo: 1991.

Kim, Yongsook. Lim, Hye-Won. "Hanji (Traditional Korean Paper) Fashions," in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Vol. 6, 2010.

Lee, Seung-chul. Hanji: Everything You Need to Know About Traditional Korean Paper. Seoul: Hyeonamsa, 2012.

Leitner, Christina. Paper Textiles. London: A & C Black Publishers, 2005.

Lim, Young-ju and Ki-Ho Sang. Hanji Craft Culture. Seoul: Daewonsa, 2002.

Mohajer va Pesaran, Daphne. 2018. “People and Placelessness: Paper Clothing in Japan.” Fashion Practice 10, no. 2 (June): 236–55.

Narita, Kiyofusa. 1954. A Life of Ts’ai Lung and Japanese Paper-Making. Tokyo: The Paper Museum.

Omura, Tomoko. 1999. “Konnyaku Paste and Kōzo.” The Journal for the Society for Washi Culture 7: 102–07.

Shim, Joon-young and Yongsook Kim. “A Study on the Development of Fashion Accessory Products Made with Korean Traditional Paper Hanji II.” Korean Journal of Human Ecology 15, no. 5 (2006): 803–809.

Yang, Sunny, and Rochelle Narasin. Textile Art of Japan. Shufunotomo:Tokyo, 2000.

Today's episode delves into the life of April Ashley, a fashion icon and a pioneering figure in the transgender community. Despite facing tremendous challenges and frequent discrimination, Ashley emerged as a resilient advocate for transgender rights, contributing to greater awareness and acceptance.

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THANK YOU!

RESOURCES: 

Ashley, April and Duncan Fallowell. April Ashley's Odyssey. London: Arena, 1982.

"April Ashley: Portrait of a Lady." Museum of Liverpool, Liverpool Museums, https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/whatson/museum-of-liverpool/exhibition/april-ashley-portrait-of-lady.

"April Ashley: The Legal Battle." The National Archives Blog, National Archives UK, https://blog.nationalarchives.gov.uk/april-ashley-the-legal-battle/.

"April Ashley, Transgender Pioneer in Britain, Dies at 86." The New York Times, January 3, 2022. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/03/world/europe/april-ashley-dead.html.

EPISODE NOTES: 
Everyone loves a good ghost story, so settle in and snuggle up as today's episode examines the story of a heartbroken bride to be, an iron-willed business man, and a haunted wedding dress!

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Resources:

Anna Woods Baker letters and diary, 1850-1905, The Penn State University <https://digital.libraries.psu.edu/digital/collection/pccolls/id/7618/>

Dobrowolsky, Cory. “Madness at the Mansion: Mirror Reporter Spends Night in ‘Haunted’ Altoona Landmark.” The Altoona Mirror, October 31, 2015. <https://www.altoonamirror.com/life/area-life/2015/10/madness-at-the-mansion-mirror-reporter-spends-night-in-haunted-altoona-landmark/>

Exhibits and Collections. Stockyards Museum. Accessed October 1, 2022.
<http://www.stockyardsmuseum.org/exhibits-and-collections.html>

Nesbitt, Mark and Patty A. Wilson. Haunted Pennsylvania: Ghosts and Strange Phenomena of the Keystone State. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 2006.

Peterson, Megan Cooley. Haunted Objects from Around the World. Mankato, MN: Capstone Press, 2017.

Stollznow, Karen. Language Myths, Mysteries, and Magic. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2014.

EPISODE NOTES:
What better way to kick off spooky season that with a grisly Victorian murder? Tune in for a complicated tale of love, betrayal, murder, and a not-so-little black dress!
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Resources:

Bassett, Lynne Z. Gothic to Goth: Romantic Era Fashion and Its Legacy. Hartford, CT: Connecticut Wadsworth Antheneum Museum of Art, 2016.

Borowitz, Albert. The Woman Who Murdered Black Satin. Columbus, OH: Ohio State University Press, 1981.

Clark, W.M. The Bermondsey Murder: A Full Report of the Trial of Frederick George Manning, and Maria Manning, for the Murder of Patrick O’Connor. London: W.M. Clark, 1849.
Huish, Robert. The Progress of Crime, Or, The Authentic Memoirs of Maria Manning. London, M'Gowan and Son, 1849.

EPISODE NOTES:
This episode is a follow up to episode 5 where we got into the nitty gritty of the zoot suit’s origins. This episode is dedicated to the bloody conflict that surrounded the suit nationally and internationally in the 1940s, including the infamous zoot suit riots of Los Angeles.

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Resources:

Alvarez, Luis. The Power of the Zoot: Youth Culture and Resistance During World War II. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2008.

“Densho Digital Repository.” Densho. 2022. <https://ddr.densho.org/?_ga=2.253375113.1677367262.1663867492-1432067065.1663867492>

Harden, Jacalyn D. Double Cross: Japanese Americans in Black and White Chicago.  Minneapolis, MNUniversity of Minnesota Press, 2003.

Jakes, Kelly. Strains of Dissent: Popular Music and Everyday Resistance in WWII France, 1940-1945. East Lansing, MI: Michigan State University Press, 2019.

Mauricio Mazon, The Zoot-Suit Riots: The Psychology of Symbolic Annihilation. Austin,TX: University of Texas Press, 1984.

Pagán, Eduardo Obregón. Murder at the Sleepy Lagoon. Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press, 2003.

Peiss, Kathy. Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2011.

Ramirez, Catherine S. The Woman in the Zoot Suit: Gender, Nationalism, and the Cultural Politics of Memory. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2009.

Weitz, Mark A. The Sleepy Lagoon Murder Case: Race Discrimination and Mexican-American Rights. Lawrence, KS: University of Kansas Press (2010).

Wu, Ellen D. The Color of Success: Asian Americans and the Origins of the Model Minority. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2013.

Watch:

American Experience. 2002. Season 14, Episode 6, “Zoot Suit Riots.” Directed by Joseph Tovares. Aired March 1, 2002 on PBS.

Producer, Peter Burrell, & Director Luiz Valdez. (1981). Zoot Suit.

EPISODE NOTES:
The first of two episodes dedicated to a controversial and incredibly consequential piece of twentieth century menswear. This episode will delve into the history of the zoot suit and the different groups and individuals who helped bring it about and how it became an icon of social and political resistance. 

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Resources:

Benda, Camille. Dressing the Resistance. New York: Princeton University Press, 2022.
Bogate, Joshua. “Movie stars and anti-Filipino race riots: The secret history of San Francisco’s Macintosh Studios.” SF Gate, April 28, 2021. <https://www.sfgate.com/sfhistory/article/A-luxury-San-Francisco-suitmaker-that-inspired-a-16133069.php>

Burns, Lucy Mae San Pablo. Puro Arte: Filipinos on the Stages of Empire. New York: New York University Press, 2013.

Howard, Sarah Elizabeth. ‘‘Zoot to Boot: The Zoot Suit as Both Costume and Symbol.’’ Studies in Latin American Popular Culture,(2010), 28.

Holly Alfrod, ‘‘The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence.’’ Fashion Theory 8, No. 2 (2004): 225–36.

Peiss, Kathy. Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2011.

Ramirez, Catherine S. The Woman in the Zoot Suit: Gender, Nationalism, and the Cultural Politics of Memory. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2009.

Roces, Mina. ““‘These Guys Came Out Looking Like Movie Actors’’: Filipino Dress and Consumer Practices in the United States, 1920s–1930s.” Pacific Historical Review, Vol. 85, No. 4, (2016), 532–576.

Shane White. Stylin’: African American Expressive Culture from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1998.

EPISODE NOTES:
With his large coiffure and bright clothes, the Macaroni was a ubiquitous image in pamphlets, newspapers, and magazine in the 18th century. His unusual appearance and behavior made him a target and an icon.  
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Resources:

Hanley-Smith, Natalie. “Gossip and Sexual Transgression in ‘English Society’ in 1790s’ Naples.” Journal for Eighteenth Century Studies, Volume 44, Issue 1 (March 2021). Pp. 59-75.

McNeil, Peter. “‘That doubtful gender’: Macaroni Dress and Male Sexualities.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 3, no. 4 (November 1, 1999). Pp. 411-447.

McNeil, Peter. Pretty Gentlemen: Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-century Fashion World. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2018.

Rauser, Amelia. “Hair, Authenticity, and the Self-Made Macaroni.” Eighteenth-Century Studies,Vol. 38, No. 1, Hair (Fall, 2004), Pp. 101-117.

Rictor Norton, "The Macaroni Club: Homosexual Scandals in 1772", Homosexuality in Eighteenth-Century England: A Sourcebook, 19 December 2004, updated 10 Feb. 2021 <http://rictornorton.co.uk/eighteen/macaroni.htm>.

Jody Greene, ‘Public Secrets: Sodomy and the Pillory in the Eighteenth Century and Beyond’ in The Eighteenth Century, vol. 44 (2003), Pp.203-32.

Amelia Rauser, ‘Hair, Authenticity and the Self-Made Macaroni’, in Eighteenth-Century Studies, vol.38 (2004), Pp.101-17.

EPISODE NOTES:

Today we’re going to talk about the Dowager Empress Cixi (1835–1908) of late Qing Dynasty (1644-1991) China. A complicated and controversial historical figure, she ultimately rewrote the court dress code as she brought China into the twentieth century.

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Resources:

Carl, Katharine, With the Empress Dowager of China, The Century Company, New York, New York, 1907.

Derling, Two Years in the Forbidden City. New York: Dodd, Mead and Company, New York, 1911.

Finnane, Antonia. Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, and Nation. New York: Columbia University Press, 2008.

Nii, Rie., Iwagami, Miki., Suoh, Tamami., Fukai, Akiko., Koga, Reiko. Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century : the Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. Germany: Barnes & Noble, Incorporated, 2014.

Steele, Valerie and John S. Major. China Chic: East Meets West. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1999.

Vollmer, John. Ruling from the Dragon Throne: Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2002.

Wilson, Ming editor, “Introduction,” Imperial Chinese Robes from the Forbidden City, V&A Publishing, London, England, 2010.

Yao, Felicia. “Of Silk and Statecraft,” Journal of Dress History, Vol. 4, Issue 1 (Spring 2020): 111-135.

EPISODE NOTES: When two creative powerhouses get together, madness (and a little lobster) is not off the menu! Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali were individually massive personalities and iconic figures. Together, they blew up and blurred lines between art and fashion.

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Resources:

Gibson, Ian. The Shameful Life of Salvador Dalí. London, Faber and Faber, 1997

McAuliffe, Mary. Paris on the Brink: The 1930s Paris of Jean Renoir, Salvador Dalí, Simone de Beauvoir, André Gide, Sylvia Beach, Léon Blum, and Their Friends. Lanham, MD: Rowman and Littlefield, 2018.

Picardie, Justine. “The Genius of Schiaparelli.” Harpers Bazaar, January 17, 2014.
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a8832/the-genius-of-schiaparelli/

Rose, Gilbert J. “Sigmund Freud and Salvador Dalí: Cultural and Historical Processes.” American Imago 40, no.4 (Winter 1983): 349-353.

Rubin, Susan Goldman. Hot Pink: The Life and Fashions of Elsa Schiaparelli. New York: Abrams, 2015.

Schiaparelli, Elsa. A Shocking Life: The Autobiography of Elsa Schiaparelli. New York : E.P. Dutton & Co., Inc., 1954.

Secrest, Meryle. Elsa Schiaparelli: A Biography. New York: Knopf, 2014.

Veillon, Dominique. Fashion Under Occupation. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2002.

Yotka, Staff. “Dalí and Schiaparelli Invented the Art-Fashion Collaboration—A New Exhibit Celebrates Their Shocking Works.” Vogue, October 13, 2017. https://www.vogue.com/article/dali-Schiaparelliarlli-in-daring-fashion-exhibit-dali-museum

EPISODE NOTES:

In today's episode, we will be discussing the medieval chastity belt. We will talk about what it was, where it came from, and how the idea has evolved over the years to the present day.  

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Resources:

Classen, Albrecht. The Medieval Chastity Belt: A Myth-Making Process. New York: Palgrave Macmillan,2007.

Gilbert, Rosalie. The Very Secret Sex Lives of Medieval Women. Coral Gables: Mango Media, 2020.

Goldbaum, Kate. “What Are Chastity Belts, Really?” Live Science, July 13, 2016.

Holt, Andrew. The World of the Crusades: A Daily Life Encyclopedia. Santa Barbara: ABC-Clio, 2019.

Smith, Lesley. “Chastity Belts and Birthing Girdles.” BMJ Sexual and Reproductive Health 33, no. 4 (October 2007): 285-286. https://srh.bmj.com/content/familyplanning/33/4/285.full.pdf

Bond, Sarah Emily. "Unlocking the Dark Ages: A Short History of Chastity Belts.” History from Below. June 6, 2015. https://sarahemilybond.com/2015/06/05/unlocking-the-dark-ages-a-short-history-of-chastity-belts/

EPISODE NOTES:

It's that time of year again! Hopefully you have your "Eatin' Pants" clean, mended, and ready to roll. Enjoy today's episode, and a little snack, as we explore the history of the elastic waistband and your favorite stretchy slacks!

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RESOURCES: 

Clemente, Deirdre. Dress Casual: How College Students Redefined American Style. Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press, 2014.

Farrell-Beck, Jane and Colleen Gau. Uplift: The Bra in America. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002. 

Jackson, Joe. The Thief at the End of the World. New York: Viking, 2008.

Schmidt, Christine. The Swimsuit: Fashion from Poolside to Catwalk. London: Berg, 2012.

Slack, Charles. Noble Obsession: Charles Goodyear, Thomas Hancock, and the Race to Unlock the Greatest Industrial Secret of the 19th Century. New York: Hyperion, 2003.

Warner, Patricia Campbell. When the Girls Came Out to Play: The Birth of American Sportswear. Amherst, MA: University of Massachusetts Press, 2006.

EPISODE NOTES:

Leather Face and Norman Bates and their penchant for human skin is the stuff of horror movies and fuel for more than a few nightmares. Sometimes, however, the truth is weirder (and creepier) than fiction!

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If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠⁠historyunhemmedpodcast@gmail.com⁠⁠ and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3

RESOURCES: 

de Baecque, Antoine. Glory and Terror: Seven Deaths Under the French Revolution. Oxford: Taylor & Francis, 2013.

Dorsey, Carolyn. “Antoine Le Blanc: A shocking story of murder and a community’s revenge.” Morristown Green. September 26, 2014. https://morristowngreen.com/2014/09/26/antoine-le-blanc-a-shocking-story-of-murder-and-a-communitys-revenge/

Douglas, John E., Olshaker, Mark. Mindhunter: Inside the FBI's Elite Serial Crime Unit. New York: Scribner, 1998.

Hunt, Lynn. The French Revolution and Human Rights: A Brief History with Documents. New York: St. Martin's, 2016.

Maffie, James. Aztec Philosophy: Understanding a World in Motion. Boulder: Colorado University Press, 2014.

La Lande, Jérôme de. Art du Tanneur. Paris: Saillant et Nyon, 1761. 

Miller, Mark E. Big Nose George: His Troublesome Trail. Glendo: High Plains Press, 2022. 

Portilla, Miguel Leon. Aztec Thought and Culture: A Study of the Nahuatl Mind. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1988. 

Rosenbloom, Megan. “A Book by Its Cover.” Lapham’s Quarterly. October 19, 2016. https://www.laphamsquarterly.org/roundtable/book-its-cover

Ruysch, Frederik. Frederik Ruysch and His Thesaurus Anatomicus: A Morbid Guide. United Kingdom: MIT Press, 2022.

Schechter, Harold. Deviant: The Shocking True Story of Ed Gein, the Original Psycho. New York: Gallery Books, 1998.

Thompson, L S. “Tanned Human Skin.” Bulletin of the Medical Library Association vol. 34,2 (1946): 93-102.

EPISODE NOTES:

From the flagellant confraternities of the Middle Ages to the penitents of of the Spanish Inquisition, from Dunce Caps to the uniform one of the most hated terrorist organizations in the United States, the long face-covering cap has quite the colorful and interwoven tale to tell.

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RESOURCES: 

Bethencourt, Francisco. The Inquisition: A Global History 1478-1834. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2009.

Chico, Beverly (3 October 2013). "The Dunce Cap". Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopaedia.

Fenley, Laura. Confraternal Mercy and Federico Barocci’s Madonna Del Popolo: An Iconographic Study. Master of Arts Thesis. College of Fine Arts.

Jorgensen, Jay. Creating the Illusion: A Fashionable History of Hollywood Costume Designers. Philadelphia: Running Press, 2015.

Kamen, Henry. The Spanish Inquisition: a historical revision. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1998.

Kinney, Alison. “How the Klan Got Its Hood.” The New Republic. January 8, 2016. https://newrepublic.com/article/127242/klan-got-hood

Lubrich, Naomi. “The Wandering Hat: Iterations of the Medieval Jewish Pointed Cap.” Jewish History 29, no. 3/4 (2015): 203–44.

Parsons, Elaine Frantz. Midnight Rangers: Costume and Performance in the Reconstruction-Era Ku Klux Klan.

Sherman, Irwin W. The Power of Plagues. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2020.

Stokes, Melvyn. D.W. Griffith’s the Birth of a Nation: The History of the Most Controversial Picture of All Time. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007.

Straus, Raphael. “The ‘Jewish Hat’ as an Aspect of Social History.” Jewish Social Studies 4, no. 1 (1942): 59–72.

The Klanwatch Project of the Southern Poverty Law Center. Ku Klux Klan: A History of Racism and Violence.  Montgomery, AL: The Southern Poverty Law Center, 2011.

EPISODE NOTES:

For millennia, Dhaka was renowned for its exquisite cotton textiles. The resplendent fabrics from Bengal were highly sought after in markets from China and Indonesia to France and England. Particularly muslin. In the late 18th century the British ultimately murdered Dhaka Muslin.

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RESOURCES: 

A former Resident of Dacca. A Descriptive and Historical Account of the Cotton Manufacture of Dacca, in Bengal. London: John Mortimer, 1851.

AFP. "Textile hub Bangladesh revives muslin, the forgotten elite fabric." Al Jazeera, 9 March 2022, https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2022/3/9/textile-hub-bangladesh-revives-muslin-the-forgotten-elite-fabric

Alkazi, Roshen. Ancient Indian Costume. New Delhi: Art Heritage Books, 1983.

Ashmore, Sonia. Muslin. New York: Harry Abrams, 2012.

Beckhert, Sven. Empire of Cotton: A Global History. New York: Vintage Books, 2015.

Bolts, William. Considerations on India Affairs; Particularly Respecting the Present State of Bengal and its Dependencies. London: J. Almon, 1772.
Chandra, Moti. Indian Costumes and Textiles from 8th to 12th Century. Ahmedabad: Journal of Indian Textile History, 1960.
Chaudhury, Sushil. Spinning Yarns: Bengal Textile Industry in the Backdrop of John Taylor’s Report on ‘Dacca Cloth Production. New York: Routledge, 2020.

Hossain, Hameeda. The Company Weavers of Bengal: The East India Company and the Organization of Textile Production in Bengal 1750-1813. Dhaka: The University Press LTD.,2010. 

Islam, Saiful. Muslin Our Story. Dhaka: Bangladesh National Museum, 2016.

Postrel, Virginia. The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World. New York: Basic Books, 2020.

Tankha, Madhur. "How this Bangladeshi textile revivalist is mainstreaming muslin." The Hindu. 15 May 2019, https://www.thehindu.com/society/history-and-culture/how-this-bangladeshi-textile-revivalist-is-mainstreaming-muslin/article27128775.ece

EPISODE NOTES:

Holy cow! We've hit our 20th episode!

In the second half of the twentieth century, Barbie and other fashion doll makers grapple with issues of identity and representation. THe third of History Unhemmed's three-episode segment on the history of the fashion doll.

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If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠historyunhemmedpodcast@gmail.com⁠ and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3

RESOURCES: 

Augustyniak, J. Michael.  Barbie Doll Photo Album: 1959 to 2009 Identification & Values. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 2010.

Black Dolls: From the Collection of Deborah Neff. United States: Radius Books, 2015.

BillyBoy*. Barbie! : her life & times, and the New Theater of Fashion. New York: Crown, 1987.

Charles-Roux, Edmond., Lottman, Herbert R.., Garfinkel, Stanley. Théâtre de la Mode: Fashion Dolls : the Survival of Haute Couture. Vancouver, WA: Palmer-Pletsch Associates, 2002.

Crowsey, Linda. Collector's Encyclopedia of Madame Alexander Dolls 1948-1965. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2006.

Eames, Sarah Sink. Barbie Doll Fashion: 1959-1967. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 1990.

Garrett, Debbie Behan. Black Dolls: A Comprehensive Guide to Celebrating, Collecting, and Experiencing the Passion. United States: Debbie Behan Garrett, 2008.

Gerber, Robin. Barbie Forever: Her Inspiration, History, and Legacy (Official 60th Anniversary Collection). United States: Epic Ink, 2019.

Hart, Maria Teresa. Doll. United Kingdom: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2022.

Hatcher, Val. “What about Gay Bob?” Natural History Museum. https://nhm.org/stories/what-about-gay-bob.

Knaak, Silke. Bild-Lilli: The German Comic Character That Inspired Teenage Fashion Dolls. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2003.

Mackrell, Alice. An Illustrated History of Fashion: Five Hundred Years of Fashion Illustrations. New York: Drama, 1997.

Olmec Toys. "About." Olmec Toys. https://www.olmectoys.com/#about

Rand, Erica. Barbie's Queer Accessories. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1995.

Veillon, Dominique. Fashion Under the Occupation. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2002.

Willson, Jacki. Dangerous Bodies: New Global Perspectives on Fashion and Transgression. Germany: Springer International Publishing, 2023.

EPISODE NOTES:

In the twentieth century, the pandora doll had disappeared as a professional tool. The relationship between fashion and dolls, however, remained a very close one. After WWII, the plastic fashion doll for children arose from some less than wholesome beginnings, to take the world by storm. In this second of three episodes on the fashion doll, History Unhemmed takes a closer look at some little fashionistas who had a huge impact.

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RESOURCES: 

Augustyniak, J. Michael.  Barbie Doll Photo Album: 1959 to 2009 Identification & Values. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 2010.

Boy, Billy. Barbie! : her life & times, and the New Theater of Fashion. New York: Crown, 1987.

Charles-Roux, Edmond., Lottman, Herbert R.., Garfinkel, Stanley. Théâtre de la Mode: Fashion Dolls : the Survival of Haute Couture. Vancouver, WA: Palmer-Pletsch Associates, 2002.

Crowsey, Linda. Collector's Encyclopedia of Madame Alexander Dolls 1948-1965. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2006.

Eames, Sarah Sink. Barbie Doll Fashion: 1959-1967. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 1990.

Knaak, Silke. Bild-Lilli: The German Comic Character That Inspired Teenage Fashion Dolls. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2003.

Mackrell, Alice. An Illustrated History of Fashion: Five Hundred Years of Fashion Illustrations. New York: Drama, 1997.

Rand, Erica. Barbie's Queer Accessories. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1995.

Veillon, Dominique. Fashion Under the Occupation. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2002.

EPISODE NOTES:

She inspired fashion trends on a global scale. She taught young girls and grown women alike about the dressing styles of royal courts across Europe and how to wield fashion as tool…and a weapon. Before there was Barbie, there was Pandora. This episode is the first of three exploring the family tree of Mattel’s most famous "It" girl and her contemporaries.

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RESOURCES: Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530.  New York: Hispanic Society of America, 1979.
Cousin, Nelly. Dolly’s Outfit: Teaching Children How to Dress Their Dolls. London: Samuel Miller, 1872. Croizat, Yassana C. ""Living Dolls": François Ier Dresses His Women." Renaissance Quarterly 60, no. 1 (2007): 94-130.
Frasier, Antonia K. Dolls. New York: Octopus Books,1973. Frasier, Antonia. Marie Antoinette. New York: Anchor Books, 2001.
Frieda, Leonie. Catherine de Medici: Renaissance Queen of France. New York: Harper Collins, 2003. Goldstone, Nancy. The Rival Queens: Catherine de' Medici, Her Daughter Marguerite de Valois, and the Betrayal that Ignited a Kingdom. New York: Little, Brown, and Company, 2015
King, Constance Eileen. The Collector’s History of Dolls. New York: Outlet, 1977.

Mackrell, Alice. An Illustrated History of Fashion: Five Hundred Years of Fashion Illustrations. New York: Drama, 1997. Shaw, Christine. Isabella d’Este: A Renaissance Princess. New York: Routledge, 2019. Weber, Caroline. Queen of Fashion. New York: Picador,  2006. 

Whyel, Rosalie. The Heart of the Tree: Early Wooden Dolls to the 1850s. Bellevue, WA: Rosalie Whyel Museum of Doll Art, 2003.

What happens when fashion, politics, and fraud collide in the glittering halls of Versailles? Tune in and find out about this gem-uine (yeah that really was awful) controversy! In this episode, we’ll take a closer look at L’Affaire du Collier de la Reine or the Affair of the Queen’s Necklace. This scandal shook the French monarchy, dragged Marie Antoinette’s name through the mud, and became a turning point in the lead-up to the French Revolution. Come for the diamonds, stay for the the glitter, the grift, and the guillotine. 

If you have any requests, questions, or simply feel like saying hello (we're friendly and Mr. B, our Executive Paw-ducer, is a purr-fect angel), drop us a line at historyunhemmedpodcast@gmail.com.

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RESOURCES:

Beckman, Jonathan. How to Ruin a Queen: Marie Antoinette, the Stolen Diamonds and the Scandal that Shook the French Throne. United Kingdom: John Murray Press, 2014.
Black, Jeremy. A Brief History of Slavery. London: Little, Brown Book Group, 2011.
Campan, Jeanne Louise Henriette. Memoirs of the Court of Marie Antoinette, Queen of France. United States: L. C. Page, 1900. Available on Google Books

Carlyle, Thomas. The Diamond Necklace. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1913.
Fraser, Antonia. Marie Antoinette: The Journey. New York: Anchor Books, 2001.
Kitchin, Thomas (1778). The Present State of the West-Indies: Containing an Accurate Description of What Parts Are Possessed by the Several Powers in Europe. London: R. Baldwin, 1778.
Valois-Saint-Rémy, Jeanne (Countess de La Motte). The Diamond Necklace. Burbank, CA: Creative Media Partners, LLC, 2023.
Miller, Christopher L. The French Atlantic Triangle. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2008.
Weber, Caroline. Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution. New York: Henry Holt, 2006. 
Yonan, Michael E. The Cultural Aesthetics of Eighteenth-Century Porcelain. United Kingdom: Taylor & Francis, 2017.

And (after an eternity)…we’re back!
Join us today as we take a closer look at the fascinating (and perhaps a bit messy) history of period garments. Not breeches and corsets à la Bridgerton period dress, but the development of things like menstrual belts, vaginal packs, early tampons, and the rise of reusable options like the mooncup and period pants/panties. We’ll explore where these products came front, the cultural forces and taboos that shaped them, and how they’ve evolved in relation to changing societal attitudes toward menstruation. It’s sure to be a bloody brilliant ride!

If you have any requests, questions, or simply feel like saying hello (we're friendly and Mr. B, our Executive Paw-ducer, is a purr-fect angel), drop us a line at historyunhemmedpodcast@gmail.com.

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THANK YOU!

RESOURCES:

Alliance for Period Supplies. "The History of Period Products." Last modified November 7, 2023. https://allianceforperiodsupplies.org/the-history-of-period-products/.
History Colorado. “Period Piece: Menstruation’s Hidden History.” August 16, 2024. https://www.historycolorado.org/story/2024/08/16/period-piece-menstruations-hidden-history.

Horwitz, Rainey, "Menstrual Tampon". Embryo Project Encyclopedia ( 2020-05-25 ). ISSN: 1940-5030 https://hdl.handle.net/10776/13151
Jaafar H, Ismail SY, Azzeri A. Period Poverty: A Neglected Public Health Issue. Korean J Fam Med. 2023 Jul;44(4):183-188. doi: 10.4082/kjfm.22.0206. Epub 2023 May 16. PMID: 37189262; PMCID: PMC10372806.
Kijowska, Wiktoria. “Sanitary Suspenders to Mooncups: A Brief History of Menstrual Products.” Victoria and Albert Museum. Last modified August 16, 2024. https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/a-brief-history-of-menstrual-products.
King, Helen. Making History (blog), https://mistakinghistories.uk/.
Stein, Elissa, and Susan Kim. Flow: The Cultural Story of Menstruation. 1st ed. New York: St. Martin's Griffin, 2009.
Thomas C. T. Buckley, Alma Gottlieb. Blood Magic: The Anthropology of Menstruation. University of California Press, 1988

What is History Unhemmed ? Allow us to introduce ourselves in 30ish seconds! Be sure to tune in - new episodes drop Monday April 14!

This episode takes a look at the vibrant and evocative members of La SAPE, the Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People, or the Sapeurs. Set against the backdrop of Congo's colonial past and post-independence struggles, clothing is about much more than just being fashionable. For the Sapeur, fine tailoring, luxe fabrics, and bold patterns are expressions of identity, resistance, and pride. From the streets of Brazzaville and Kinshasa to the global stage, join us as we discuss how these impeccably dressed individuals challenge the legacy of colonialism, reclaim dignity, and redefine masculinity through the power of dress.

If you have any requests, questions, or simply feel like saying hello, we're friendly and Mr. B, our Executive Paw-ducer, is a purr-fect angel)! Please drop us a line at historyunhemmedpodcast@gmail.com.

You can also find us on social media:

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THANK YOU!

RESOURCES:

Ali, Mona M. “The Incredible Fashion of the Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo.” Vogue Scandinavia, September 20, 2021.
Aris, Gisele. The Power and Politics of Dress in Africa. Final project paper, University of Pennsylvania, 2007. Undergraduate Humanities Forum Mellon Research Fellow, Penn Humanities Forum on Travel.
Callsen, Barbara. "Fashion and Migration: On the Construction of Masculinities in the Sape Movement Between the Congo and France." In Masculinities and Migration in Latinx and Francophone Literatures and Cultures, edited by Brendan P. Bisbey and Adriana Herrera Fuentes. Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, 2025.
Guinness. Meet Congo's Sapeurs. YouTube video, 2:02. January 17, 2014. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuGaRCPDl1c&t=50s.

Hochschild, Adam. King Leopold’s Ghost. New York: Mariner, 2020.
Jorgensen, K.E. “Sapologie: Performing Postcolonial Identity in the Democratic Repuplic of Congo”. Toronto, Ontario : Master of Arts Contemporary Art, Design and New Media Histories, 2014.
Lewis, Shantrelle P. Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style. New York: Aperture, 2017.

Miller, Monica L. 2009. Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. Durham: Duke University Press.
Porbeni, Beatrice. “The Congolese Dandies – A Piece of History.” Guardian Life, August 20, 2017.

Tamagni, Daniele. Sapeurs: The Gentlemen of Bacongo. London: Trolley Books, 2009.

Vainshtein, Olga. “13. Dandyism Revisited: From the English Gent to the Sapeur.” In Fashionable Masculinities: Queers, Pimp Daddies, and Lumbersexuals, edited by Vicki Karaminas, Adam Geczy, and Pamela Church Gibson, 177–191. Ithaca, NY: Rutgers University Press, 2022.

Zaidi, Tariq. Sapeurs: Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo. Heidelberg: Kehrer Verlag, 2020.