GoldDust – Details, episodes & analysis

What really happens when you're the name behind the brand?

Jewellery designer Hannah Martin joins the GoldDust Podcast to discuss the realities of building a career in fine jewellery with her bold, sexy, sculptural designs.

We talk about how she grew her one-woman brand from Central St Martin's graduate to a 3 story East London showroom over the last 20 years. From the pressures of being the name behind the brand, trying stuff that doesn't work, and designing jewellery that isn't for everyone, to the decisions she made that changed everything.

Hannah also shares insights on creative conviction, the power of building a community - if you haven't been to one of her legendary parties you need to - and what it really takes to grow a jewellery business that stands the test of time.

With clients ranging from Rhianna to Zaha Hadid, Hannah Martin is one of the rare fine jewellery success stories where the work remains truly unique, undiluted, and uncompromised.

Episode Notes

01:21 Hannah's early influences and education at Central Saint Martins

02:18 Her experience at Cartier and starting her own brand

02:47 The evolution of her design philosophy and style

07:32 The importance of authenticity in her work

12:10 Launching her first collection and materials used

17:15 Her unique creative process and character-driven collections

23:02 Balancing artistic integrity with commercial success

26:36 Her signature style and recognisability

30:06 Brand growth, studio space, and community building

37:37 Setting trends and her influence on jewellery design

44:16 The significance of her creative space and studio environment

49:50 Business growth, diversification, and her teaching roles

52:29 Bespoke work, bridal, and engagement jewellery

58:36 Lessons learned and mistakes made along the way

01:02:48 The future of her brand and industry insights

Guest: Hannah Martin
Website: hannahmartinlondon.com
Instagram: @hannahmartinldn

Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com

You can also follow the host, Kate Baxter, at @golddust_by_kate_baxter

and @thecutlondon

Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast.

Thank you for listening!

In this episode of the GoldDust Podcast, I’m joined by Polly Wales, a true pioneer in contemporary fine jewellery who built her career by challenging many of the traditional rules of the craft.

Known for her cast-in-place gemstone technique, Polly creates pieces that are intentionally organic, unpredictable, and completely unique. We talk about how this unconventional approach first developed, why she never felt entirely at home within the traditional fine jewellery world, and how embracing imperfection became the foundation of her work.

We also discuss the pivotal moment when Polly took the huge step of moving her entire business from the countryside of the UK to Los Angeles, a decision that transformed the trajectory of her brand and helped her find an audience that truly connected with her work.

For independent jewellers, this conversation offers an honest look at creative risk, originality, and what can happen when you build a jewellery career by doing things differently.

Episode Notes

Guest: Polly Wales
Website: www.pollywales.com
Instagram: @pollywales

Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com

Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter

and @thecutlondon

Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast. Thank you for listening!

Rachel Boston has become one of the most sought-after engagement ring designers in London by striking a balance that many jewellers aim for but few achieve: work that feels timeless and familiar, yet still distinctive and recognisably her own.

In this conversation, we explore how Rachel grew her business organically (with no investment!) over more than a decade, evolving from early designer-maker beginnings and trade shows to a refined East London showroom with a strong waiting list for bespoke commissions.

We discuss the turning points that shaped her brand, including the decision to focus on bridal, the importance of carrying a clear signature style through every collection, and the realities of opening and sustaining a physical retail space in one of the most competitive luxury markets in the world.

Topics include:
• defining a recognisable design handwriting that evolves over time
• building a bridal and bespoke business without outside investment
• the role of physical retail in a digital-first world
• how customer expectations around engagement rings have changed
• balancing creative development with commercial consistency
• navigating rising material costs and long-term brand growth

A thoughtful conversation about ambition, risk-taking, and the long-term value of developing a clear point of view in a crowded market.

Episode Notes

Guest: Rachel Boston

Website: https://www.rachelboston.co.uk
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rachelbostonjewellery/

GoldDust Collective
https://www.katebaxterstudio.com

The Cut London
https://www.thecutlondon.com

Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com

Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter

and @thecutlondon

Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast. Thank you for listening!