Gastronomica – Details, episodes & analysis

In this episode, Gastronomica’s Dan Bender talks with anthropologist Alyssa Paredes about the role that stories of celebration can play in remembering food history — and in eclipsing alternative narratives about the past. Spotlighting the case of banana ketchup, Alyssa shares competing stories about the production of this popular condiment and explains how it came to be a celebrated symbol of Filipino cultural identity, yet one that overshadows unpalatable realities. Connecting narratives of past and present, Dan and Alyssa discuss the work that stories do and the process of interpreting them in food studies scholarship. Alyssa’s new article, “Banana Ketchup: Food Memory and Forgotten Labor across the Filipino Homeland/Diaspora Divide,” will be published in the next issue of Gastronomica (24.2), coming Summer 2024.

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What do the stories we tell about food reveal about the moment in which they are written? Gastronomica’s Melissa Fuster is joined by literary scholar turned food studies scholar Julieta Flores Jurado in a conversation about American food writing and how it has changed in recent years. They discuss key shifts in food journalism and the role of the critic, where a focus on pleasure and tastemaking has given way to new emphases on systemic and structural issues, a phenomenon accelerated in 2020 by the Covid-19 pandemic. Julieta sheds light on how contemporary American food writing differs from prior eras that showcased food as a platform for activism and change and explains what she takes to be distinctive about such writing in the current moment – its revisionary sentiment and the impulse to transform a field. Julieta’s research will be published in the next issue of Gastronomica (24.2), coming Summer 2024.

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What does food sustain? Elora Halim Chowdhury joins Gastronomica’s Signe Rousseau to discuss her new article on family, class, and culture in South Asian identity-making. Reflecting on her food nostalgia for the family mealtimes of her childhood in Rajshahi, Dhaka, and New Delhi, Elora discusses how time, labor, and transnational connections shape identity and community.

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In this episode, Gastronomica’s Krishnendu Ray talks with Sean Wyer about the 21st century transformation of Rome’s Jewish Quarter. Drawing on his latest research, recently published in Gastronomica, Sean considers how a range of factors – from heritage tourism and cosmopolitan innovation to religious dietary laws and diasporic migration – helped shape Jewish-Roman cuisine and the evolving character of a historic neighborhood.

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In this episode, cultural anthropologist Lauren Crossland-Marr returns to the Gastronomica podcast to discuss her new project on gene-edited foods and science communication. In conversation with Dan Bender of Gastronomica’s editorial collective, Lauren shares her evolving research interests in food studies and how she transitioned from studying local “authentic” foods to researching the rollout of a new technology in global food and agricultural commodity systems with the GEAP3 network. Lauren introduces her most recent work, a podcast series called A CRIPSR Bite, that tells the story of a new gene editing technology through case studies of tomatoes, soy, cattle, and wine.

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Gastronomica’s Dan Bender and Jaclyn Rohel explore wines from Italy’s Alto Piemonte region in this discussion on taste, livelihoods, and a changing environment. In his newly published creative nonfiction article, Dan writes that “Wine is good for thinking ruins.” This episode connects abandoned factories, overgrown terraces, vineyards, cellars, and local memory of “The Great Hailstorm of 1905” to tell a larger story about how past, present, and future collide in the wineglass.

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In this episode, Nancy Sommers discusses her new creative nonfiction article, “Things Left Behind,” in conversation with Signe Rousseau, Co-Chair of Gastronomica’s Editorial Collective. Nancy shares the personal story of sorting through the family keepsakes that her mother had meticulously preserved over the span of many decades. Recipes, menus, seating plans, accounts of household meals, drawings and diagrams and other ephemera – all classified, archived, and saved – come to new light against the backdrop of dementia. Nancy highlights the complex layers of remembering and forgetting, the surprises, and the unexpected gifts.

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What does it mean to be a “sustainable” chef? In this episode, Gastronomica’s Jaclyn Rohel talks with anthropologist Jed Hilton about his latest research on culinary labor in the hospitality industry. Drawing on his ethnography of British chefs, Jed shares some of the ways that chefs navigate notions of sustainability through the craft of cooking. Connecting expertise, ethics, and the market, the conversation highlights the tensions that surround the meaning of sustainability in fine dining restaurants.

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In this episode, Gastronomica’s Bob Valgenti talks with Chelsea Fisher and Clara Albacete about their new article on food justice and civilizations in the supermarket. Drawing on superfoods such as quinoa and chia, they unpack the process of ancient greenwashing and the notion of long-term sustainability. Their conversation connects the contemporary moment to pre-colonial civilizations to reveal how social inequities in global food systems live on through storied food.

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In this episode, Gastronomica’s Alyshia Gálvez hosts historian Camille Bégin in a discussion on a family food archive. Drawing on her recent piece, Bégin stitches together a collage of memories from the 1948-49 letters of her great-grandfather, who traveled through Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia as an inspector of the French lycées. Bégin explains how she came to spin a narrative of food, family, and the French colonial empire through her great-grandfather's ephemera and three subsequent generations of family cooks.

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