In this episode, we leave the crowds of Florence behind and head 30 kilometers northwest to the medieval city of Pistoia. Often overlooked by tourists, Pistoia offers an authentic Tuscan experience, packed with "zebra-striped" Romanesque architecture, underground history, and a vibrant aperitivo culture. Join us on a 3-to-4-hour circular walking tour through this well-kept secret.
In This Episode, We Cover:
• Piazza del Duomo: We start at the heart of the city, exploring one of Italy's most harmonious squares.
◦ The Cathedral of San Zeno: Home to the incredible silver Altar of St. James, a masterpiece that took 150 years to complete.
◦ The Bell Tower: A climb of 200 steps offers panoramic views of the Tuscan hills.
◦ The Baptistery: A stunning octagonal structure in green and white marble.
• Art & History:
◦ Ospedale del Ceppo: Famous for its colorful terracotta frieze by Giovanni della Robbia depicting the "Seven Works of Mercy". We also descend into Pistoia Sotterranea to see the city's foundations and an ancient riverbed.
◦ San Giovanni Fuorcivitas: A church characterized by its striped marble north wall and the moving "Visitation" sculpture by Luca della Robbia.
◦ Sant'Andrea: Visiting Pistoia’s greatest artistic treasure, the intricately carved Pulpit by Giovanni Pisano (1301).
• Local Life:
◦ Piazza della Sala: Known as "The Living Room," this square transforms from a morning vegetable market to a bustling evening spot for drinks. Look for the "Pozzo del Leoncino," the well guarded by a stone lion.
◦ Basilica of Our Lady of Humility: We end the tour beneath the massive dome designed by Giorgio Vasari—the third-largest in Italy.
Travel Tips Mentioned:
• Footwear: Wear comfortable shoes! The medieval center is paved with "pietra serena" stones which can be slippery and hard on the feet.
• Timing: Avoid Monday mornings when many museums and churches have limited hours.
• Must-Try Snack: Look for Confetti di Pistoia in the market area—sugar-coated aniseed sweets that look like little hedgehogs.
• Famous Residents: Pistoia was the birthplace of Pope Clement IX (Giulio Rospigliosi), a patron of the arts and playwright who reigned from 1667 to 1669.
Map of the Route:
• Start: Piazza del Duomo
• Stop 2: Ospedale del Ceppo (Via Filippo Pacini)
• Stop 3: San Giovanni Fuorcivitas (Via de' Rossi)
• Stop 4: Piazza della Sala (Via Francesco Crispi)
• Stop 5: Sant'Andrea (Via Sant'Andrea)
• Stop 6: Basilica of Our Lady of Humility (Via della Madonna)
• End: Return to Piazza del Duomo
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sources & Links:
• Pistoia City Guide (Wikipedia)
◦ Overview of the city's history, geography, and main sights.
◦ Link to Source
• Pistoia Cathedral (Wikipedia)
◦ Deep dive into the Cathedral of San Zeno and its interior art.
◦ Link to Source
• Pistoia Travel Guide (Wikivoyage)
◦ Practical travel information including transport, dining, and accommodation.
◦ Link to Source
• Pope Clement IX (Wikipedia)
◦ Biography of Giulio Rospigliosi, Pistoia's famous pontiff.
◦ Link to Source
Note: this podcast was produced using AI.
Copyrighted 2026. Licenced for use under Creative Commons Share Alike Attribution.
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
