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100 Shahd AlShehail on Abadia, Saudi Fashion, and Going Global01 Aug 202600:57:15

I still remember one of the first times I saw an Abadia design up close. It was at that inaugural 100 Saudi Brands exhibition in Riyadh. It stopped me in my tracks. That's the effect designer Shahd AlShehail's work tends to have on people.

Shahd is the founder, CEO, and creative director of Abadia, the Saudi label she started back in 2019. And if you've spent any time around the Gulf's fashion scene lately, you already know the name — Abadia has quietly become one of the most compelling luxury stories to come out of the region in recent memory.

Here's what makes Shahd's story so interesting to me: she didn't come up through a fashion school, dreaming of runways. She came to the industry by way of her studies in sustainable development, of all things — and that background shows in everything Abadia does. The brand works with dozens of female artisans across Saudi Arabia and the wider Middle East, keeping crafts like Sadu weaving alive, and making sure the women behind those heritage techniques are paid and credited for it. For Shahd, that's not a marketing angle, it's a fundamental pillar of her brand. Which by extension not only creates a sense of pride in the creative past of her culture, but also hopefully will help it to become woven into the fabric of the fashion world more globally in the future.

What I love is how she translates all of that heritage into something that feels utterly modern — structured tailoring meeting soft, fluid draping, pieces like the farwa, traditionally a man's desert coat, reimagined as a covetable piece of womenswear. Abadia can now be found on Net-a-Porter, in Selfridges, at Harrods. And I love that Shahd is talks about wanting Abadia to be “the” Saudi brand the rest of the world knows.So here she is — a designer building quiet, deliberate luxury on her own terms, one artisan, one collection, one chapter at a time.

–🎬 Thank you to Studio Wacked in Paris for the support of my French-based podcast episodes https://wacked.fr/ and Poddster https://dubai.poddster.com/ and Procast https://procast.ae/ in Dubai for their amazing studio and team where these episode are recorded:

💌Drop me a DM: @jessicamichault or just old school email me.

📝 My website: https://jessicamichault.com/

Connect with Us:

✅Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/jessicamichault/

✅Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jessicamichault/

You might also like:

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB6DwlT70eM

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3humRELI5E

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQyQN7Yq7HQ

Thank you for watching this video, click the "SUBSCRIBE" button to stay connected with this channel. “Shahd AlShehail on Abadia, Saudi Fashion, and Going Globa”- Jessica Michault

#fashionpodcast #podcast #podcastdesigner #designer #designerpodcast

More About Jessica Michault:

Jessica Michault is an award-winning journalist, public speaker and Fashion, Luxury, Beauty consultant. She is an expert on the Middle East luxury market and has launched multiple luxury publications in the GCC. Michault's 60 Second Fashion Reviews were one of the first to bring fashion show criticism to the social media sphere, and her in-depth, one-on-one interviews with some of fashion's leading movers and shakers, via her Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast, have created another avenue for fashion lovers to connect with the industry. She spent 16 formative years working side by side with the renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes, as the Online Style Editor of the International Herald Tribune, before taking C-suite positions in leading luxury publications like ODDA magazine, NOWFASHION and Antidote magazine and taking up the role of SVP of Industry Relations at Launchmetrics. Over the years, she has consulted with brands such as Miu Miu, Boucheron, Mulberry and the Puig group, and her articles have been published in The New York Times, Business of Fashion and throughout multiple Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines across the globe.

099 Alice Temperley: The Woman Who Made Bohemian Luxury a British Institution With Temperley London18 Jun 202600:42:32

What first impressed me about the fashion designer Alice Temperly was how assured she felt. When she enters a space, instantly, there is a sense that this is a woman who knows exactly who she is, what she has accomplished, and is crystal clear on the goals she has set for herself and how she wants to achieve them.

Alice is someone whose work has always felt like stepping into a story. She founded her brand Temperley London in 2000 and quickly carved out a space in fashion with designs that celebrate romance, craftsmanship, and a certain kind of bohemian glamour that feels both timeless and deeply personal.

Her collections are often rich with detail — intricate embroidery, flowing silhouettes, and references to art, travel, and heritage craftsmanship. They’re pieces that feel considered and expressive, designed for women who want ensembles that carry a little bit of magic with them.

Over the past 26 years, Alice has built Temperley London into a beloved brand worn by everyone from British royalty to Hollywood royalty. But perhaps what’s most compelling about her journey is the fact that she has done it largely on her own terms, maintaining a fiercely independent spirit in an industry that is constantly evolving.

Together, we talk about where that creative spirit of hers comes from — the early days of building the brand, the inspirations that continue to shape her work, and what it really takes to stay true to your vision in a fashion landscape that is in the midst of a paradigm shift.

–

🎬 Thank you to Studio Wacked in Paris for the support of my French-based podcast episodes https://wacked.fr/ and Poddster https://dubai.poddster.com/ and Procast https://procast.ae/ n Dubai for their amazing studio and team where these episode are recorded:

💌Drop me a DM: @jessicamichault or just old school email me.

📝 My website: https://jessicamichault.com

Connect with Us:

✅Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/jessicamichault/

✅Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jessicamichault/

You might also like:

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB6DwlT70eM

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3humRELI5E

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQyQN7Yq7HQ

Thank you for watching this video. Click the "SUBSCRIBE" button to stay connected with this channel.

"Alice Temperley: The Woman Who Made Bohemian Luxury a British Institution With Temperley London - Jessica Michault"

#fashionpodcast #podcast #podcastdesigner #designer #designerpodcast

More About Jessica Michault:

Jessica Michault is an award-winning journalist, public speaker and Fashion, Luxury, Beauty consultant. She is an expert on the Middle East luxury market and has launched multiple luxury publications in the GCC.

Michault's 60 Second Fashion Reviews were one of the first to bring fashion show criticism to the social media sphere, and her in-depth, one-on-one interviews with some of fashion's leading movers and shakers, via her Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast, have created another avenue for fashion lovers to connect with the industry.

She spent 16 formative years working side by side with the renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes, as the Online Style Editor of the International Herald Tribune, before taking C-suite positions in leading luxury publications like ODDA magazine, NOWFASHION and Antidote magazine and taking up the role of SVP of Industry Relations at Launchmetrics. Over the years, she has consulted with brands such as Miu Miu, Boucheron, Mulberry and the Puig group, and her articles have been published in The New York Times, Business of Fashion and throughout multiple Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines across the globe.

098: Ameni Esseibi: The First Curvy Model of the Arab World on Breaking Beauty Standards in Fashion15 Jun 202601:02:01

Ameni Esseibi is someone who has spent years challenging the fashion industry to make room for her — and won. She is the first plus-size Arab model, a body positivity advocate, a Jean Paul Gaultier ambassador, a Paris Fashion Week runway veteran, and a woman who has built an entire career on the radical act of showing up exactly as she is.

Born in Tunisia, raised in Dubai, and educated in the French school system, Ameni started her modelling journey at just eighteen years old. But her road to success was anything but easy. She approached agency after agency in Dubai and was told there was no market for her. That the region wasn't ready. But she ignored the naysayers. Dismissing their ignorance and persevered.

Today, she has graced the pages of Vogue, Elle, Harper's Bazaar, and Cosmopolitan. She has walked couture catwalks in Paris. Become a global ambassador for Dubai Fashion Week and the Arab Fashion Council. And along the way has become the voice that an entire generation of Arab women had been waiting for — curvy, confident, and proud of her heritage.

What makes Ameni truly remarkable is not just what she has achieved, but why she set out to achieve it. From the very beginning, becoming a model was never about the pursuit of fame. It was about the young Arab woman who didn't see herself anywhere — not on the runway, not in the magazines, not on the billboards. When Ameni couldn’t find a role model, she decided to become the person she was looking for. The woman others could look to, and understand that they were enough – just as they are.

In our interview, we discuss what representation really means in the modeling space, why the word plus-size should be banned, and how her love of horseback riding has given Ameni a sense of inner peace she didn’t know she was searching for.

–🎬 Thank you to Studio Wacked in Paris for the support of my French-based podcast episodes https://wacked.fr/ and Poddster https://dubai.poddster.com/ and Procast https://procast.ae/ n Dubai for their amazing studio and team where these episode are recorded:

💌Drop me a DM: @jessicamichault or just old school email me.📝 My website: https://jessicamichault.com/

Connect with Us:

✅Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/jessicamichault/

✅Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jessicamichault/

You might also like:

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB6DwlT70eM

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3humRELI5E

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQyQN7Yq7HQ

Thank you for watching this video, click the "SUBSCRIBE" button to stay connected with this channel. "Ameni Esseibi: The First Curvy Model of the Arab World on Breaking Beauty Standards in Fashion”- Jessica Michault"

#fashionpodcast #podcast #podcastdesigner #designer #designerpodcast

More About Jessica Michault:

Jessica Michault is an award-winning journalist, public speaker and Fashion, Luxury, Beauty consultant. She is an expert on the Middle East luxury market and has launched multiple luxury publications in the GCC. Michault's 60 Second Fashion Reviews were one of the first to bring fashion show criticism to the social media sphere, and her in-depth, one-on-one interviews with some of fashion's leading movers and shakers, via her Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast, have created another avenue for fashion lovers to connect with the industry.

She spent 16 formative years working side by side with the renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes, as the Online Style Editor of the International Herald Tribune, before taking C-suite positions in leading luxury publications like ODDA magazine, NOWFASHION and Antidote magazine and taking up the role of SVP of Industry Relations at Launchmetrics. Over the years, she has consulted with brands such as Miu Miu, Boucheron, Mulberry and the Puig group, and her articles have been published in The New York Times, Business of Fashion and throughout multiple Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines across the globe.

097 Chriselle Lim: From OG Fashion Influencer to Building a Global Brand with Phlur Fragrances21 May 202601:02:21

Chriselle Lim is many things at once: a pioneer of digital fashion storytelling, a serial entrepreneur, and a woman who has built a career by evolving in the public eye with intention and integrity long before “creator economy” became industry shorthand.

From the early days of The Chriselle Factor to her impressive transformation of the fragrance brand Phlur, which she bought, rebranded, and recently successfully sold – while remaining on board as the Creative Director of the company – Chriselle has consistently sat at the centerpoint of style, business, and modern womanhood. She has proved that influence, when done well, is less about visibility and more about vision. Her journey speaks to reinvention, resilience, and the courage it takes to build something that reflects who you are now, not who the algorithm expects you to be.

She is a woman who turned storytelling into one of the most talked-about fragrance reinventions of our time with Phlur. Chriselle didn’t just relaunch a perfume house; she translated life itself through its fragrances — heartbreak, resilience, memory, identity — into bottles that speak louder than any trend. Chriselle’s journey is as nuanced as the aromas she crafts. Forget technical top notes — she begins with emotion, using fragrance as an extension of self-expression and personal narrative.

In our decidedly candid conversation, we talk openly about growth—personal and professional—about building brands with emotional intelligence, and about what it really means to lead in an industry that rarely slows down. It was a wide-ranging, honest, and open girl talk that proved without a doubt that Chriselle is a woman with both vision and purpose.

–

🎬 Thank you to Studio Wacked in Paris for the support of my French-based podcast episodes https://wacked.fr/ and Poddster https://dubai.poddster.com/ and Procast https://procast.ae/ n Dubai for their amazing studio and team where these episodes are recorded:

Drop me a DM: @jessicamichault or just old school email me.📝 My website: https://jessicamichault.com

Connect with Us:

✅Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/jessicamichault

✅Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jessicamichault

You might also like:

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB6DwlT70eM

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3humRELI5E

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQyQN7Yq7HQ

#fashionpodcast #podcast #podcastdesigner #designer #designerpodcast

More About Jessica Michault:

Jessica Michault is an award-winning journalist, public speaker and Fashion, Luxury, Beauty consultant. She is an expert on the Middle East luxury market and has launched multiple luxury publications in the GCC.

Michault's 60 Second Fashion Reviews were one of the first to bring fashion show criticism to the social media sphere, and her in-depth, one-on-one interviews with some of fashion's leading movers and shakers, via her Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast, have created another avenue for fashion lovers to connect with the industry.

She spent 16 formative years working side by side with the renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes, as the Online Style Editor of the International Herald Tribune, before taking C-suite positions in leading luxury publications like ODDA magazine, NOWFASHION, and Antidote magazine, and taking up the role of SVP of Industry Relations at Launchmetrics. Over the years, she has consulted with brands such as Miu Miu, Boucheron, Mulberry, and the Puig group, and her articles have been published in The New York Times, Business of Fashion, and throughout multiple Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines across the globe.

096 Nadine Kanso: Reclaiming Arab Identity Through Calligraphy and Fine Jewellery07 May 202600:49:19

Nadine Kanso is a pillar of Dubai's creative community. Born in Beirut, the Lebanese designer has called the city home since the year 2000. And over the past quarter century, she has become one of its most distinctive and beloved creative voices. A talented photographer, a recognised fashion muse, and someone with an innate gift for interior design — Kanso is a born artist in the fullest sense of the word. But it is jewellery that has become her most powerful form of expression.

In 2006, she founded Bil Arabi — a jewellery house built on a single, heartfelt premise: that the Arabic language is one of the most beautiful things in the world, and that it deserves to be celebrated. Better yet, worn. Drawing on her background in graphic design and her deep love of calligraphy, Kanso began transforming Arabic letters and words into handcrafted jewellery. Messages of love, strength, and beauty — rendered in gold and precious stones — worn as declarations of identity by a devoted following across the Arab diaspora and far beyond it.

Nearly two decades on, Bil Arabi is considered to be one of the region’s most prominent jewellery houses. With Kanso being tapped for collaborations with leading international luxury brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Berluit and Guerlain and being named a Forbes Middle East Fashion Innovator in 2024.

In our conversation, we explore what it means to build a luxury brand around cultural reclamation — and how she has stayed true to that original vision while growing Bil Arabi into an international name. We also talk about the particular kind of resilience it takes to be a female founder in this industry, what it means to her to represent the region on a global stage, and why, after twenty years, the Arabic language still has more to say.

Kanso's story is one of identity, artistry, and wearing your heart on your sleeve, with a message carved in golden words of love and self-acceptance.

–

🎬 Thank you to Studio Wacked in Paris for the amazing support of my French-based podcast episodes https://wacked.fr/ and Poddster In Dubai for their amazing studio and team where this episode was recorded: https://dubai.poddster.com

💌Drop me a DM: @jessicamichault or just old school email me.

📝 My website: https://jessicamichault.com

Connect with Us:

✅Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/jessicamichault

✅Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jessicamichault

You might also like:

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB6DwlT70eM

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3humRELI5E

💟https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQyQN7Yq7HQ

Thank you for watching this video, click the "SUBSCRIBE" button to stay connected with this channel. "Nadine Kanso: Reclaiming Arab Identity Through Calligraphy and Fine Jewellery - Jessica Michault"

#fashionpodcast #podcast #podcastdesigner #designer #designerpodcast

More About Jessica Michault:

Jessica Michault is an award-winning journalist, public speaker and Fashion, Luxury, Beauty consultant. She is an expert on the Middle East luxury market and has launched multiple luxury publications in the GCC.

Michault's 60 Second Fashion Reviews were one of the first to bring fashion show criticism to the social media sphere, and her in-depth, one-on-one interviews with some of fashion's leading movers and shakers, via her Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast, have created another avenue for fashion lovers to connect with the industry.

She spent 16 formative years working side by side with the renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes, as the Online Style Editor of the International Herald Tribune, before taking C-suite positions in leading luxury publications like ODDA magazine, NOWFASHION and Antidote magazine and taking up the role of SVP of Industry Relations at Launchmetrics. Over the years, she has consulted with brands such as Miu Miu, Boucheron, Mulberry and the Puig group, and her articles have been published in The New York Times, Business of Fashion and throughout multiple Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines across the globe.

095 Farnoush Hamidian: The Model Who Is Redefining The Industry04 Dec 202501:04:03

Model and poet Farnoush Hamidian has that unquantifiable something, what the French call je ne sais quoi, that only fashion’s most iconic muses possess. All eyes turn towards her when she enters a room, and anyone who has seen her walk a couture catwalk can confirm she dominates the runway with a presence born not just from beauty, but inner strength.

Born in Iran, Farnoush’s path to the world’s biggest fashion stages has been anything but straightforward. It’s a story threaded with courage – of leaving home, of finding her place, and of redefining what beauty looks like on her own terms. In an industry that’s still learning to celebrate difference, she has become something rare: a woman who embodies both mystery and meaning.

Farnoush, whose face has graced the cover of Vogue Arabia, Emirates Woman and L’Officiel, has collaborated with brands like Dolce Gabbana, Cartier, Tiffany Co, Chaumet and L’Oreal. And walked the Paris Couture runways, most notably as a muse for Stephane Rolland, not to mention the red carpeted steps of the Cannes Film Festival. But behind the editorials and couture fittings lies a deeper narrative — one about resilience, identity, and the power of representation.

In a time when the fashion world is finally beginning to open its eyes to diverse forms of beauty, Farnoush stands as both muse and mirror. Reflecting a new generation of women who are rewriting the definition of elegance. Today she is using her voice and her platform to champion a more inclusive and thoughtful vision of beauty. From the quiet discipline of her early years to the creative freedom she’s now embracing, Farnoush has proven herself to be so much more than just a pretty face.

094 Alexis Mabille: Fashion’s Debonair Couture Designer27 Nov 202500:52:45

The debonair Alexis Mabille is a renowned French designer known for his innovative work in both fashion and interior design. Born into a big family, he learned early from his mother how to sew clothing, dressing both friends and family in his creations.

Later, he would enroll in the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, graduating early because of all the hands-on sartorial experience of his childhood. From there, he worked at prestigious fashion houses like Ungaro and Nina Ricci before being tapped by John Galliano to come work with him during his time at Dior. He also collaborated with Hedi Silmane during his tenure at Dior Homme.

Finally, in 2005 Alexis decided to launch his signature brand and found fans in artists like Dita Von Teese, Katy Perry, and Lady Gaga. He gained a reputation for pushing the envelope when it came to the idea of unisex dressing and turned the bow into the signature motif of his maison, making it a modern fixture of fashion. He would also go on to explore interior design with his equally successful company BEAU BOW Paris.

In this episode, Alexis explores his approach to building a lasting legacy as he begins a new chapter with his signature brand. Also, we examine what it truly means for originality to transcend market trends and whether creativity alone is enough to make a lasting impact in today’s fashion industry.

As always, Alexis is full of stories, full of insights, and full of fun.

093 Stéphane Rolland: The Designer Whose Heart Beats for Haute Couture20 Nov 202500:56:16

There are fashion designers, and then there are couturiers – those rare artists who understand how to sculpt emotion from fabric or create drama from a single silhouette. Stéphane Rolland is one of those exceptional few.

From the moment he stepped onto the haute couture stage, Stéphane made it clear that he wasn’t interested in playing it safe. His signature collections are bold, architectural, and cinematic – full of sweeping trains, sculptural volumes, and unapologetic glamour. His creations don’t just walk into a room; they command it.

But behind the red-carpet-ready gowns lies a deep-rooted respect for craftsmanship. A graduate of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture and the youngest ever Artistic Director at Balenciaga, Stéphane brings a razor-sharp technical skill to the visionary designs of his eponymous fashion house. He is a master of cut, proportion, and impact – dressing women like Beyoncé, Celine Dion, and Queen Rania with the kind of elegance that refuses to go unnoticed.

Based in Paris but with an eye always on the world, Stéphane merges the discipline of haute couture with the sensibility of sculpture and the drama of the stage. Each look is a story – powerful, feminine, and unforgettable.

Stéphane Rolland doesn’t just design clothes. He creates moments.

092 Mariam Yeya: The Fabulous Force Behind Mrs. Keepa13 Nov 202500:56:30

There’s a certain kind of designer who doesn’t just make clothes – she builds a world. Mariam Yeya, the French-Egyptian force behind the fashion label Mrs. Keepa, does exactly that. Her creations aren’t just garments; they’re declarations of individuality, freedom, and fearless femininity – a colorful and creative visual dialogue that is a sartorial dance between structure and spontaneity.

Launched in 2016 with Mariam’s husband, Bassel “Keepa” Komaty … thus the name Mrs. Keepa – was born out of a desire to create clothing that felt both modern and timeless. What began as a ready-to-wear brand with a cult-like following among the region’s most discerning dressers has now evolved into an international label known for its eclectic silhouettes, impeccable tailoring, and some serious statement shoulders.

Her designs don’t whisper — they speak loud and clear. To women who are confident, eccentric, and unapologetically themselves. The best way to describe the “Mrs. Keepa girl” is that she isn’t a woman defined by trends; she defines them. What ties the brand all together is the designer’s instinctive understanding of contrast — the harmony between masculine and feminine energy, the vintage and the avant-garde, the uninhibited and the meticulously crafted.

It’s this melange that makes her work so compelling. As a designer, she brings together her Egyptian heritage and French sensibility with a modern, cosmopolitan slant. And her recent expansion into menswear only cements this idea.

But at the heart of Mrs. Keepa’s success is something deeper: a commitment to sustainability as a central creative philosophy. Each collection is built around longevity with pieces designed to live many lives in one wardrobe.

Today, the Mrs. Keepa brand stands as one of the most dynamic independent labels to come out of the Middle East — proof that authenticity and imagination can still be a business model. Mariam’s story is, at its core, about freedom, the freedom to create without compromise, to lead without imitation, and to inspire a generation of women to take up space, beautifully and boldly.

091 Mohammed Aqra: The Strategist Uplifting Designers in the Middle East06 Nov 202500:59:13

There are visionaries who predict the future — and then there are those who quietly build it. Mohammed Aqra belongs to the latter. As the Chief Strategy Officer of the Arab Fashion Council, he has become one of the most influential figures shaping the evolution of fashion across the Middle East and beyond. Equal parts strategist, connector, and cultural diplomat, he is redefining what it means to turn creativity into economic power.

Born in New York to Jordanian parents, Aqra embodies the duality of East and West — a sensibility that has become the foundation of his work. With degrees in International Business and International Business Law, he approaches fashion as both art form and infrastructure, understanding that beauty means little without the scaffolding of sustainability and vision.

At just twenty-five, he became one of the youngest executives in the global fashion industry when he co-founded the Arab Fashion Council, a non-profit organization dedicated to building a unified fashion ecosystem across the twenty-two Arab nations. As its Chief Strategy Officer, Aqra is leading initiatives that bridge diplomacy, technology, and design, and his trajectory has been defined by ambition paired with execution.

Under his leadership, the Arab Fashion Council has transformed from a regional platform into a global player. Partnerships with industry giants like Meta, Microsoft, Dyson, DHL, and Mattel have expanded the reach of the Middle East’s creative economy, while collaborations with legendary houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Moschino, Marchesa, and Carolina Herrera have elevated the Arab fashion narrative onto the international stage. Aqra was also instrumental in founding Dubai Fashion Week alongside Dubai Design District (d3), solidifying the city’s position as one of the five major fashion capitals in the world.

But what sets Aqra apart is not only his ability to forge alliances; it’s the way he reimagines the purpose of fashion itself. He sees it as a global language — one that transcends borders and builds bridges. His vision positions the Arab world not as a satellite to the West, but as a central, driving force in the global creative economy.

Aqra represents a new kind of industry leader: analytical yet imaginative, disciplined yet daring. His work is not about fashion for fashion’s sake, but about the long game — building creative economies, fostering cross-cultural collaboration, and proving that design can be both a commercial and a diplomatic force. As Dubai continues to rise as a global hub for art, culture, and innovation, Aqra stands at the crossroads — shaping not just how fashion looks, but how it functions, connects, and endures.

090 Nicolas Santi-Weil: The Fashion CEO Who Leads With His Heart30 Oct 202500:38:40

In this episode Nicolas Santi-Weil, the CEO of AMI Paris, discusses what it takes to build a global multimillion dollar independent fashion brand today, how Asia helped shape AMI’s future, and why his carpe diem approach to business has proven so successful…

Nicolas Santi-Weil is not your typical fashion CEO. Equal parts strategist and storyteller, he’s the architect – alongside founding designer Alexandre Mattiussi – behind the rise of AMI Paris, the effortlessly cool French brand that’s become the gold standard for Parisian nonchalance.

In an era where major luxury conglomerates are reporting their worst results in years Nicolas has been instrumental in shepherding AMI to some quite impressive wins. The 15 year old company now counts 700 wholesale partners and points of sale in over 100 countries. And just last year the brand saw 300 million euros in turnover – an increase of 10 fold in just four short years.

With a background that bridges finance, entrepreneurship, and fashion Nicolas brings a rare clarity to an often chaotic industry. He understands how to scale a brand without losing its soul, take daring, yet calculated risks and knows how to craft a growing fashion empire that feels both deeply personal and universally relatable.

This is a man who likes to choose the unconventional path… like leaving his job at a multimillion-dollar business to join AMI – when it was still a little-known label. Under his leadership, the company has expanded internationally, come up with some unexpected and energizing collaborations with creative heavyweights, and maintained a fiercely loyal following without compromising its roots.

But beneath Nicolas’ work lies a deeper story of risk, reinvention, and quiet resilience. This episode is about truly discovering the man behind AMI’s success. Exploring what it takes to lead a brand through personal sacrifice, cultural shifts, and high-stakes markets like China.

And as luck would have it…we also finally get to discover his go to karaoke song.

089 Burc Akyol: The Designer You Need to Know23 Oct 202500:53:50

In the latest episode of the Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast, up and coming fashion designer Burc Akyol shares his unfiltered views on the fashion industry, his nascent signature brand and what it’s really like to work with Cardi B.

There are some designers that feel like lighting in a bottle. Burc is without a doubt one of those. The poetic way he talks about fashion, his clear sense of self awareness and his raw honesty make him captivating to listen to and I could have easily spoken with him for hours.

With roots in France and Turkey, and a foundation built in the ateliers of some of Paris’s most storied maisons, including Christian Dior and Balenciaga, Burc launched his namesake label in 2019 with a vision as bold as it is refined. His work speaks in a fluent, sensual language – fluid silhouettes, razor-sharp tailoring, and a near-couture level of craftsmanship. It's a wardrobe designed not for the faint of heart, but for those who want to stand elegantly apart.

From his now-iconic tuxedo jeans to his sculptural bustiers, Burc brings a magnetic energy to everything he touches. His designs celebrate dualities: masculine and feminine, strength and vulnerability, structure and seduction. It’s no surprise his work has already found fans among fashion’s most daring tastemakers like Cardi B, Cate Blanchett, Kendall Jenner, and Gabrielle Union.

But beyond the silhouettes and the styling, there’s a deeper conviction behind the brand – one of sustainability, intentionality, and making garments that last beyond trends. A 2023 LVMH Prize finalist and this year’s winner of the Pierre Berger prize at the ANDAM awards, Burc isn’t just designing clothes; he’s crafting a new kind of bold elegance for a new generation.

And fashion – quite frankly – is better for it.

088 Charlotte Chesnais: The Cool Girls Jewelry Designer16 Oct 202500:44:29

In this episode, I speak with Charlotte Chesnais, a woman who has spent a decade creating jewelry coveted by cool girls around the world. This year, she is celebrating the 10-year anniversary of her signature brand and her 40th birthday. Major milestones for a woman who seems to take everything in stride and with a broad smile.

In a landscape where jewelry often shouts for attention, designer Charlotte has built a brand that whispers refinement – but still turns every head in the room. Her pieces are instantly recognizable, not for their flash, but for their form: sculptural, fluid, and impossibly modern. Each design curves around the body… like it was always meant to be there.

Charlotte began her career in the world of fashion, working under famed designer Nicolas Ghesquière during his time at Balenciaga, where she honed her eye for structure and developed her instinct for movement. But it was in launching her namesake label in 2015 that she truly came into her own. With collections that blur the line between accessory and art object, she’s redefined what jewelry can look like – and how it should feel.

This is a woman who decided to start a family and start a business pretty much simultaneously. Found success early and didn’t take it for granted. She is frank, open, and honest, and that is reflected in the work that she creates. Pieces that become a part of you, of your everyday, and your always.

With her third free-standing store about to open in Tokyo, the launch of a captivating new fine jewelry collection, and a clever new flatware collaboration with Christofle, Charlotte continues to expand her universe, inviting more women (and men) to embrace intentional adornment. A kind of luxury that speaks only to those who are truly paying attention.

087 Dima Ayad: The Dubai Designer Changing the Shape of Luxury09 Oct 202500:55:45

Designer Dima Ayad is rewriting the conversation around Arab fashion, inclusivity, and the power of creative resilience.

Born in Lebanon but raised in Dubai, she grew up within the rhythms of the city’s hospitality and luxury spaces. Her early career unfolded in PR and marketing roles at Jumeirah, Raffles, and Atlantis. Places where she learned not only about always going the extra mile and delivering more than what was asked for, but also the critical importance of storytelling and creating deep connections with customers.

But fashion — that was personal. Frustrated by the scarcity of beautifully designed, size-inclusive clothing, she began sketching what she needed — pieces that would flatter, not constrain. With no formal training, she learned by doing. Her first collection, launched in 2011, sold out almost immediately — but the trajectory of her signature brand was never linear. She has even said that some collections were “diabolically bad.” But she admits that she has learned more from those missteps than from her biggest wins.

Alongside building her namesake label, Dima founded DAC Communications in 2020 — a PR, marketing, and storytelling agency born to fill a gap in the market and nurtured through Dima’s unique vision. She’s now balancing dual identities: the dreamer who brings ideas to life through fabric, and the strategist who helps other brands speak their truths.

In our conversation, we explore how Dima keeps inclusion at the core of her business – designing for all women, for diversity, for dignity. We talk about the stumbles along the way that sharpened her resolve and hear how she feels representing Dubai to the world, exploring both its contradictions and its promise. And finally, for those starting out, she gives great insights into the bravest things they can do for their businesses, and how to hold onto themselves and their singular vision as they grow.

Dima Ayad’s story is one of elegance, grit, and radical inclusion.

086 Laure Guilbault: France’s Die Hard Fashion Journalist02 Oct 202500:41:34

In this episode, I sit down with Laure Guilbault, the Paris Correspondent for Vogue Business. Laure is a diehard fashion journalist. She worked at WWD for five years, became Business of Fashion’s first Paris correspondent, and is now the Paris Correspondent for Vogue Business. She doesn’t just report on fashion – she dissects it. From the C-suites of luxury maisons to the atelier floors of emerging designers, her journalism captures the pulse of an industry in flux.

Laure brings a uniquely European lens to her reporting – precise, considered, and always ahead of the curve. She understands not just the aesthetic ambitions of fashion, but the structural realities that shape its billion-dollar future.

During the pandemic, she took her love of the industry to new heights when she launched her Sunday Night Live interviews on Instagram. Each Sunday at 6pm, she goes live on the platform to interview leaders and creatives in the fashion and luxury space. It has become a weekly rendez-vous for industry insiders looking for real, uncensored, and unedited conversations about the current state of play in a world that is constantly reinventing itself.

In our conversation, we discuss the paradigm shift that fashion is in the midst of facing, how she honed her interview style, and who she has always dreamt of interviewing… and of course, whether or not she would recommend becoming a fashion journalist in the age of AI.

085 Lucien Pagès: The Man Shaping the Stories of Fashion25 Sep 202500:56:07

In this episode, I sit down with Lucien Pagès, one of the fashion world’s most accomplished storytellers and the founder of the eponymous Lucien Pagès Communication, a prominent public relations agency in the luxury fashion and beauty industries.

Cards on the table…I have known Lucien Pagès for decades. I have watched with joy as his unique mix of charm, creativity, and candor has manifested itself in public relations triumphs for hundreds of brands, including legendary labels such as Saint Laurent, Jacquemus, and Schiaparelli.

Once quietly working behind the scenes, Lucien, who just celebrated his 50th birthday, has recently stepped a bit more into the spotlight. Inviting a wider audience into the magical world he works in. Paying it forward to future creatives looking to understand what it takes to authentically and powerfully craft stories that make a luxury brand irresistible.

With nearly two decades of navigating the glamorous and ever-evolving world of fashion PR, in our conversation, he pulls back the velvet curtain on the raw truths behind his career, revealing his unfiltered thoughts on his growing TikTok fame, how he deals with different designer personalities, and what luxury really means today.

We dive deep into the values, grit, and instincts that guide him. His decision to sell his company after 18 years of shaping fashion’s most iconic voices, and why this man, with the most infectious laugh in fashion, still has so many stories to tell.

084 Charaf Tajer: Takes Fashion Global With His Casablanca Brand02 Jul 202500:35:15
In just seven short years, Charaf Tajer, the founder and creative director of the brand Casablanca, has proven that the fashion world has room for a multitude of sartorial expressions. His unique blend of old-money style, colorful prints, sporty inspirations and architectural touches has managed to recalibrate the language of contemporary fashion. With roots in Paris and Morocco, Charaf’s path to fashion wasn’t linear. He cut his teeth in the nightlife scene as the art director of Paris’ iconic venue Le Pompon, but was also a creative consultant for Supreme, once upon a time collaborated with Virgil Abloh. But was also a co-founder of the streetwear brand Pigalle before launching Casablanca in 2018. A label born not from trend-chasing, but from a desire to distil elegance, memory, and escapism into clothing.Casablanca isn’t just a fashion brand; it’s a sensibility. A world where terry cloth tailoring meets Art Deco curves, and where every collection feels like a postcard from a sun-drenched far-flung destination. But behind the silk shirts and saturated palettes lies a precise vision – one that blends nostalgia with modernity and elevates leisurewear into a refined statement of intent.Now, the brand is entering a new era. With two flagship stores about to open – one in Paris and another in Los Angeles – Charaf is bringing his universe into physical form. It’s a bold move, but then again, Casablanca was never about playing it safe. As you’ll hear, Charaf is a designer who leads with instinct, impeccable craftsmanship, and a sociological eye.
083 Guillaume Delacroix: Fashion's Badass Brand Strategist17 Sep 202300:30:22
Guillaume Delacroix is a luxury brand whisperer. His entire career, from his early days working at Karla Otto and KCD to his time at Giorgio Armani and Balenciaga, to his current role as the founder and CEO of DLX, he has been helping leading prestige companies craft their narratives in ways that spark conversations, engage the public and create lasting impressions. Guillaume launched DLX nine years ago and since then he has built up a reputation in the industry for both spotting and supporting budding design talents but also for helping more established companies create bold new chapters in their brand strategy. A born storyteller, Guillaume doesn’t limit his clientele to just fashion labels but instead uses his skills to create memorable moments with a variety of companies. He has worked with everyone from Matches, and the famed Samaritaine department store in Paris to hot niche brands like Sophie Carbonari Skincare, the Zurich-based On athleticwear label and the current must-have swimwear brand Hunza G. The common denominator across all these companies is they are cool. And if they weren’t cool, by the time Guillaume works his magic on their brand strategy, communication rollout and event activations…well they damn sure will be.I have known Guillaume for years and considering his impressive track record in the luxury space what still strikes me the most is how humble and self-effacing he is. I mean just Google the guy. For someone who can weave a brand narrative like nobody’s business, there is very little about Guillaume himself online. I hope this podcast will help change that. As he is one man worth knowing. This interview took place in June 2021
082 Suzy Menkes: Fashion's Greatest Critic09 Jul 202300:48:58
I don’t think I have ever been as nervous about interviewing someone in my entire career as I was when my former boss and colleague Suzy Menkes agreed to speak with me for this podcast. I worked side by side with Suzy for 16 years at the International Herald Tribune, which is now known as the International New York Times. Over that period she mentored me, encouraged me and guided me. Shaping my career as I moved from her assistant to fashion writer and finally the Online Style Editor of the IHT. During our time together we experienced so many amazing fashion moments, from the John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacob eras at Dior, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton, respectively, to watching first-hand the rise of LVMH, Gucci Group, Kering and the whole transformation of the fashion industry from artform to billion-dollar luxury business. Not to mention witnessing the debuts of iconic designers like Nicolas Ghesquière, Alber Elbaz, Phoebe Philo, Tom Ford, Stella McCartney, Alessandro Michele, Riccardo Tisci, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pierpaolo Piccioli and the list goes on. Suzy’s career as a fashion critic spans close to 60 years, starting with her college days at Cambridge where she was the first female editor of the university newspaper. But even before that, as a teenager, she moved to Paris to study at the fashion school that is now known as ESMOD. So her love of fashion as a visual expression of self and society runs very deep indeed. She started her true calling as a fashion journalist at the age of 24. Working under the watchful eye of Charles Wintour, the father of Anna Wintour, who would be an early mentor for Suzy. But Suzy came into full bloom as one of the most respected fashion critics in the world during her 26-year tenure at the International Herald Tribune. Her words were read in the pages of the daily newspaper by hundreds of thousands of readers around the world and eventually by millions once the internet was born. An audience that only expanded with the advent of social media and her turn as Condé Nast’s International Vogue Editor, which saw her words being translated into different languages and her reviews posted on all of the international Vogue websites. She also was the mastermind behind the idea of the modern luxury conference, events that are now commonplace but were brought into being at the IHT, and later continued at Vogue, under her guidance. Suzy is renowned for her honest, fair and insightful writing, and her ability to put fashion into the context of a wider global narrative. Today she runs her own very successful podcast called Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes, where she continues to interview the leading movers and shakers within the fashion industry. She is still asking the questions every fashion lover wants to know the answers to, but now I am lucky enough to be able to turn the tables on her a bit and ask her a few questions of my own.
081 Alexandra Van Houtte: The CEO who is galvanizing the fashion industry29 Jun 202300:43:53
From the moment Alexandra Van Houtte first told me about her newly launched platform in 2016, describing it as Google for fashion, I knew she was onto something. Since then TagWalk, the website she founded and is the CEO of, has grown by leaps and bounds and has become a linchpin platform for anyone working in the fashion industry. It is the first runway image keyword search engine in existence. In a nutshell, the former stylist’s assistant created a site that, in just a few simple clicks, makes it possible for stylists to whittle down their sartorial selections for fashion shoots or mood boards from the thousands of catwalk images, lookbooks, and street style shots taken every season. It is also the perfect tool for fashion journalists and editors who are obliged to cull together images for those never-ending “top trend” texts, as the platform allows users to search for images by keyword, colour, season, brand, and more. Tagwalk also offers a variety of features that make it easy to save, share, and organize images.In addition to its popularity with fashion professionals, Tagwalk’s democratic nature has made it a widespread tool for your average fashionista. As it allows visitors to the site the chance to explore the latest trends, discover new designers, find inspiration for their own personal style and create seasonal wish lists of the key pieces she wants to invest in.My conversation with Alexandra really gets into the nitty-gritty of what it takes to get a start-up off the ground, how best to bring on investors and what skill sets a successful leader needs. As always Alexandra is honest and open with her answers, not pulling any punches when it comes to the hard questions about revenue streams, scaling her business and her hiring practices. I came away from our in-depth chat feeling inspired, energized and ready to take on the world. This interview took place in May 2021
080 SCAD President Paula Wallace: A Life of Learning and Service17 Jun 202300:28:02
Talk about an inspirational story. Paula Wallace, the president and founder of the Savannah College of Art and Design, better known as SCAD had a singular vision back in September of 1978, To create a world-class art and design college that would prepare students for a global workforce. Under her leadership, SCAD has grown from a small art school with 150 students to a global university that spans three campuses around the world with thousands of students enrolled. Over the years it also became recognised as one of the most respected art and design schools, thanks in no small part to President Wallace, who has been the driving force behind its success for 45 years and today is one of the longest-serving women presidents in the history of U.S. higher education.After speaking with president Wallace – and reading her charming book "The Bee and the Acorn" – which recounts the origins story of SCAD, the things that stand out about her are her drive, her sense of curiously, and her overarching desire to make sure her students are at the forefront of creative innovation. She is forever looking for ways for SCAD students, faculty and alumni to connect, collaborate and share their unique knowledge and perspectives. And president Wallace clearly believes that creativity is essential not only for economic growth, but also that artists and designers play a vital role in shaping the world.This interview was recorded in May of 2022.
079 Anine Bing: Turning Followers into a Fashion Empire19 Sep 202100:28:35
Fashion entrepreneur Anine Bing is a very savvy business woman who knows how to seize her moment. An early adapter to the social media space, Anine, who is a former model and blogger, was one of the first to translate her online following into a successful fashion brand business. She launched her signature line back in 2012 out of the garage in her home in California. Her collection of chic staple pieces, inspired by her Scandinavian heritage and the casual cool of her Los Angeles home base, were an instant hit. Her “online first” business model, leveraging social media to market and promote her pieces was a new strategy at the time she launched. But today it's a formula that many are emulating. She reverse-engineered her success, starting from the digital space and then moving into the more traditional brick-and-mortar arena. Because today, Anine is sitting on the top of a wardrobe essentials empire. Not only is her collection sold in more than 350 stores globally, she also has over 15 stores located around the world. And Anine continues to expand. She has moved into childrenswear and has launched a successful line of perfumes, not to mention sunglasses, shoes, bags, lingerie, and jewelry. I sat down with Anine in her stylish stand-alone store in the heart of Paris to discuss her impressive success story. I was curious to learn more about a woman who was able to translate her love of timeless style and relaxed elegance into a brand that is helping legions of women look picture perfect for their selfies.
078 Kaat Debo: The Fashion Curator Looking to the Future08 Sep 202100:38:38
Kaat Debo is the Director and Chief Curator of Antwerp’s famed ModeMuseum fashion museum, better known as the MoMu; a museum that has spent the last three years under renovation. But now, after years of waiting, Kaat is able to reintroduce the world to her second home. A museum with over 35,000 pieces of Belgian fashion in its archives and a unique history that celebrates sartorial storytellers who have helped the world see fashion from new and unexpected angles.But while the MoMu is all about helping the larger world understand the different aspects and influences of the fashion universe, Kaat herself hasn’t been one to share her story much with the public. There is very little information about her online, other than the broad brushstroke that tell us that she studied literature and philosophy in school, that she first joined MoMu as a curator in 2001, she spent a couple of years as the editor-in-chief of A Magazine and then in 2009 took up her top spot position as the director of the MoMu. So I was excited to have an in depth chat with Kaat about what it takes to be a curator, especially one working in the rather new field of fashion curation. I looked forward to learning how her studies, her childhood and her mentors throughout her career shaped her world view and her collaborative nature. And I was interested to hear all about the rebirth of MoMu and how she is planning to make this museum so much more than a shire for clothes; but rather a living, breathing part of the Antwerp cultural community that interacts with the city that surrounds it and helps to nurture fashion lovers of the future.
077 Mary Katrantzou: Fashion's Goddess of Trompe L'Oeil and High Tech23 Jun 202100:50:01
I’ll never forget the first time I discovered the work of Mary Katrantzou. It was in London in 2008 I believe, and I just happened to wander into a room where a rack of her now-famous perfume bottle printed dresses was on display. On hand was her mother who was proudly showing off the stunning creations her daughter had dreamt up. And Mary’s mom had every right to be proud. Her work was unlike anything else going on in fashion at that time. Advancements in printing and computer technology had made it possible for this young woman to create architectural designs on fluid fabrics. Blending beautifully her passion for interior designs and her studies in the field of architecture at Rhode Island School of Design with her Bachelor of Arts in Textile Design and her Master’s in Fashion from Central Saint Martins. But it wasn’t just the print work that set Mary apart from the pack,it was that combined with her choice of vibrant rainbow colorways. The result was a collection that was the harbinger of the 2010s colorful print fashion revolution.Since she started her signature brand in 2008 Mary, who was born in Athens, Greece, has found a way to modernize trompe l’oeil, help women fall in love with print and color again, and showed the world that clashing aesthetics can be boldly feminine and empowering. This is why powerful women like Michelle Obama, Cate Blanchett, Beyoncé, Lizzo, Jane Fonda, and Zendaya have all flocked to her creations. But Mary’s success goes beyond her ability to reinvent her core design principles every season. She is a very savvy businesswoman who saw early on in her career the power that collaborating with other creatives and brands could have in expanding her reach and name recognition. Her recent partnership with the high jewelry company Bulgari on a line of limited edition bags is a perfect example of this. But so is her work with Victoria’s Secret, Longchamp, Topshop, and Adidas Original. And her recent decision to create the size-inclusive year-round holiday capsule collection called Mary-Mare also is indicative of how Mary is able to deftly read the fashion tea leaves as the industry shifts away from seasonal shows and moves into a space where smaller drops throughout a year feels more in keeping with the times we live in.With over a decade in fashion, Mary Katrantzou is still innovating and challenging herself as a creative, and her devoted clients couldn’t be happier.
076 Spencer Phipps is Making Sustainable Style A Manly Pursuit11 Jun 202100:37:10
Designer Spencer Phipps is a born risk-taker. There isn’t a limb on his body that doesn’t have a scar from one escapade or another - that he jumped into with both feet before asking questions. The man is even missing a significant portion of one of his pinkie fingers from one memorable misadventure. And when it comes to taking risks, Spencer also has no problem doing that in business. It was, after all, an impulse decision to launch his signature menswear brand Phipps back in 2017. When, after having worked alongside Marc Jacobs and Dries van Noten, he found himself looking to make his next move and couldn’t find a fashion house that ticked all the boxes. So instead he decided to start his own. Spencer, who was born and raised in San Francisco and graduated with a degree from Parsons in New York, has over the past four years created for himself a label that scratches a very interesting sartorial itch. His clothing celebrates timeless American wardrobe staples that allude to wide open places, outdoor activities, and manly pursuits. Garments that Spencer has designed so that they revere nature, appreciate the artisanal hand, and seek to leave as little an impact as possible on the planet. While simultaneously his goal is to have them hold a long-term place of honor in a man’s closet, another sustainable pursuit.From its inception, one of the pillars of the Phipps brand has been its commitment to sustainable sourcing and responsible manufacturing. For the designer, this means both leveraging the latest technology in terms of construction and production, as well as fine-tuning a list of transparent, sustainable suppliers that he works with regularly. His fervent commitment to crafting clothing that makes an impact but doesn't leave one on the Earth is one of the reasons why Spencer was an LVMH prize finalist in 2019 and, after just two seasons, the brand was added to the official Paris Fashion Week: Menswear calendar. But if I am being completely honest, on top of all the reasons I have already mentioned, Spencer is just a really cool guy that you always have fun hanging out with, as you will discover yourself with this interview.
075 Joseph Altuzarra: Finds Fashion's Perfect Balance27 May 202100:41:35
You get the sense, when you speak to designer Joseph Altuzarra, that he is that perfect combination of creativity and commerce. That as a French American, he has an innate sense of style coursing through his veins. While his American roots give him savvy business sense and a “pull yourself up by your bootstraps” attitude. From a young age, Joseph - who was raised by his French Basque father and Chinese- American mother - has always believed in the transformative power of fashion. A self-taught designer who got a Bachelor of Arts degree in Art and Art History from Swarthmore College, his approach to this sartorial art form has always been focused on how the clothes someone chooses to wear tell a larger story. It can be the story of who that individual is or it can be one about the person they hope to become. That clothing telegraphs a message to the world about how we see ourselves.As luck would have it, Joseph landed an internship in the design studio of Marc Jacobs in 2004 and he went on to work with Proenza Schouler before getting tapped by Riccardo Tisci to join him in Paris and become the designer’s first apprentice during his tenure at Givenchy. Then in 2008, Joseph returned to New York to strike out on his own. And from the moment he launched his signature brand, his work stood out from the other fashion collections being shown at New York Fashion Week. His sexy, sensual aesthetic that wove together elements of his multicultural heritage into his designs did not fit into the American Sportswear approach of many of his peers at that time. But standing out from the crowd served Joseph well. He was honored with the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2011 and the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear Design in 2012. He was then named the winner of the US Woolmark Prize in 2013 and in 2014 he nabbed the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award.Suffice to say, Joseph, with his accolades, his brand collaboration with Target, and his stint as a judge on the first season of the Amazon Prime television series “Making the Cut” turned Altuzarra into a household name. And now with his label well established in the fashion industry, Joseph is thinking about where he wants to take things from here. In our conversation, we discuss what the future holds for this talented designer as he looks at his career from a post-pandemic perspective. A viewpoint that has been changed by the arrival of his daughter Emma and a desire to lead a balanced and intentional life. But one that will always have fashion at its heart.
074 Alisa Volskaya: The Future of Luxury PR12 May 202100:36:15
I wanted to interview Alisa Volskaya, the founder of the public relations firm AVEC, for a few reasons. First of all, every time I would bump into her at a fashion show or event, our conversations about the state of the industry, future trends, and fashion in general always went well past surface chit-chat. Secondly, I was impressed by her drive and third, it just takes a lot of guts to launch a PR company during a moment when that field is in the middle of such a paradigm shift. Not to mention doing it in 2020, the year the world stood still.Alisa started out her career working at Condé Nast International in Paris and was in charge of the fashion publishing house’s digital projects and partnerships. In 2015, she became the Executive Director at Naked Heart France, a charity founded by the top model and philanthropist Natalia Vodianova, where she was in charge of international fundraising and partnerships. Then just five years later, she decided to go out on her own and launch her firm AVEC. Alisa’s PR philosophy is right there in the name of her business - AVEC. She sees the work that she does for brands like Chaumet, Ralph Lauren, Chopard, and Balmain as a real partnership. One where her role is to be there with the companies every step of the way in their strategy journey, from conception to completion. But what exactly does that mean in the post-pandemic, social media-centric metaverse world we now inhabit? Alisa, just like every other time I have spoken with her, had some insightful and sometimes surprising answers.
073 Alexandre de Betak: Fashion's Consummate Creative30 Apr 202100:55:06
Consummate creative Alexandre de Betak is an industry touchpoint in the world of fashion. He is behind some of the most era-defining fashion shows, events, and exhibitions of the past three decades. The proverbial man behind the curtain, Alex has brought to life the visions of designers as diverse as Raf Simons, Michael Kors, and Gabriela Hearst, and brands big and small, from Dior and YSL to Jacquemus and Rodarte. Throughout our fascinating conversation, we talk about where the spark of creativity comes from, how to keep those creative juices flowing, and how Alex is instilling in his own children that desire to experiment, to explore, and to see the world, and what it could be from different perspectives. Perspectives that will help those around them also experience a moment in new ways that challenge, delight, and mesmerize.
072 August Getty: Couture's Virtual Visionary06 Apr 202100:25:11
Fashion designer August Getty is a gentle soul whose goal is to create a fully inclusive, fully immersive sartorial world where everyone is welcome. All that is required is that you be yourself 100% both in the real world in one of his one-of-a-kind couture creations, or in the digital sphere where he recently created a whole new virtual universe he has baptized Tinitus.It is inside Tinitus that August brought to life four digital gowns for this past haute couture season, with 3D imagery so detailed it probably caused some of the biggest couture houses to turn green with envy. The designer spent six months creating these three-dimensional virtual gowns and he intends to expand on this concept with the upcoming couture shows this summer.Based in Los Angeles, the August Getty Atelier has become a niche go-to fashion house for celebrities like Miley Cyrus, Cher, Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, Zendaya..and I could go on. All of them looking for outfits that are bold, unexpected, and wholly original for their galas, red carpets, and event outfits, because let's get one thing clear, August designs ensembles for maximum impact. For August, who is an autodidact designer, the goal of fashion, which he says he has loved all the way back to “when he was in the womb” is how transformative it can be. It can make you brave and it can give you the strength to be the person you want to become. Turn fiction into reality with fashion. That is what makes it so magical and so powerful.
071 Sasha Samsonova: Photographing Female Power19 Mar 202100:42:43
Photographer Sasha Samsonova is generating quite a buzz with her striking images of women who are comfortable in their own skin and unabashedly sexy. A female Helmut Newton, Sasha is all about celebrating the beauty and strength of the women who stand before her lens. Born and raised in Ukraine, Sasha is an autodidact photographer who was already shooting for Harper’s Bazaar by the time she was 17 years old, having picked up a camera after her plans to become a professional ballroom dancer fell by the wayside. But her innate understanding of how the body can express emotion in the way it moves has had a direct impact on both her photography and the films and videos she is now directing in Hollywood. Sasha has worked with celebrities like Kylie Jenner, Lili Reinhart, Khloe Kardashian, Emma Roberts, and Kate Bosworth, her images have been featured in the pages of Vogue, L’Officiel, Elle, and Playboy and she has collaborated with brands such as Google, Fear of God, and Revlon. When you see Sasha’s work it’s all about sensual strength. And when you listen to her speak, you know that her goal in life is to make women feel as powerful as possible. And she has the photos to prove that she is doing exactly that.
070 Romeo Hunte: A Designer Hustling His Way To The Top25 Feb 202100:33:05
Romeo Hunte first registered on my radar in a way that I have never connected with a young designer before. He sent me a DM on Instagram during the global lockdown last year and suggested that the two of us jump on an Instagram Live to talk about the state of fashion in the throws of a global pandemic. And that is exactly what we ended up doing.I am telling you this story because I think it perfectly illustrates who Romeo is. He always takes the initiative, he has a clear vision of where he wants his brand and his career to go. And he is open to experimenting, trying new things, meeting new people, and just seeing how the creativity all comes together to build something new and engaging. Now just a bit of background about Romeo before we jump into our podcast interview. He grew up in Brooklyn, New York, and turned down a full athletic ride for his skills in track and field to instead attend the Fashion Institute of Technology to pursue his dream of becoming a fashion designer. He launched his brand in 2014 and then he hustled. Using his contacts via his freelance styling gigs and his full-time job as a personal shopper at a luxury retail store he was able to build both momentum and a buzz for his signature label.And then it wasn’t long before Romeo found his statement-making outerwear on the likes of Beyonce, Dwayne Wade, or Tobias Harris. Zendaya was a very early adopter of his colorful ensembles, and Michelle Obama has been spotted wearing his tailored blazers and denim hybrid jackets. Step by step, Romeo has been building a reputation for making cool, reconstructed pieces that take the best elements of different items of clothing and creating CRISPR-like hybrid pieces designed to get noticed. One person that early on took a shine to Romeo’s designs was Tommy Hilfiger. The two designers have built a strong relationship over the years, and Tommy recently gave Romeo free reign to forage through his archives. Romeo took it upon himself to revisit and reinvent some of Tommy’s iconic designs and give them a new lease on life. This clever collaboration is just the beginning of the long road ahead for Romeo in fashion.
069 Declan Chan: China's Most Stylish Fashion Stylist08 Feb 202100:31:33
Declan Chan is one of those front-row fashion fixtures that you always keep an eye out for at the shows. A fashion editor and stylist by trade, Declan has also become a favorite subject for anyone who loves to appreciate those who take the time to put together a look. Declan always looks put together, but with flare. And his outfits are just as eye-catching as the spreads he creates in the pages of publications like Vogue Hong Kong, The New York Times, the South China Morning Post, and Men’s Uno Hong Kong, or the campaigns he crafts for companies like Calvin Klein, Cartier, Estée Lauder, and Lane Crawford. Ostensibly, Declan is based in Hong Kong, but if you follow him on Instagram, his real home, up until the pandemic, seemed to be on an airplane...or a series of hotels... as he is continuously crisscrossing the world to oversee a fashion shoot, attend a fashion week, or just be a part of all of the “you had to be there” fashion happenings. What I like most about Declan, besides his style, is his honest, frank, and often funny reflections on fashion in general and fashion shows in particular. I always look forward to checking in with him at least once a season to get his thoughts on what he saw - the upcoming trends - and even which pieces he has already put a personal order in for. Declan’s point of view is important because he has become one of the central go-betweens linking the Chinese consumer to the fashion catwalks. Communicating via his editorials a sartorial message that will shape how the Middle Kingdom sees a collection, understands a designer, and ultimately, which brands they decide to invest in.I know that once you have listened to this podcast you will be as enchanted by Declan as I am.
068 Pascal Morand: Leading French Fashion Into The Future25 Jan 202100:38:38
It is hard to miss Pascal Morand when he arrives at a fashion show. Not only does he tower above most of the guests, but he is also always surrounded by the who’s who of the industry, designer hopefuls, and fashion journalists who all want to bend his ear about one aspect or another pertaining to the business of fashion. But that is what you sign up for when you are the executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.However, Pascal wears his title with the ease of someone who has spent years in the industry and knows it well. Having had paid his dues with tenures at both the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) and Ecole Supérieure de Commerce de Paris (ESCP), not to mention his time as the deputy director-general of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry for the Paris region before his current job – shaping the future of French fashion. His years teaching and his studies in Organisational Sciences at the University of Paris Dauphine have come in handy at the Fédération where he is both helping to nurture the next generation of designers who dream of showing their work during Paris Fashion Week, and wrangling those current calendar members who are always angling for a better spot. And Pascal’s love of innovation and technology has very much come in handy over the past year when, almost overnight, all of the collections - from menswear and womenswear to haute couture moved from real-world runway shows to fully digital experiences that only exist online, on a platform that the Fédération built up to frame the virtual shows as well as enrich them with added content. Including exclusive designer interviews, round table discussions about hot button fashion topics, and in-depth looks at the savoir-faire that is the beating heart of French fashion.I spoke with Pascal before the Fall/Winter 2021 menswear collections got underway in January about how he sees the fashion week evolving in the future and, as always when I speak with Pascal, I was blown away with his overarching vision when it comes to the fashion industry. It is one of the reasons why I am often part of the crowd that tries to catch his attention at the shows.
067 Anna Dello Russo: A Fashion Force of Nature19 Dec 202000:44:36
Anna Dello Russo is a fashion force of nature. To the uneducated, she is the eternal star of the concrete catwalk. The colorful, upbeat and sometimes outrageous outfits she wears to the fashion weeks she attends are always the must get shots for the photographers that stalk the streets outside the show venues.But for those who know Anna, she is much more than a fabulous clothes horse. She is one of the industry’s leading stylists and art directors. After getting a master’s degree in fashion at the Domus Academy in Milan, Anna had the good fortune, right at the start of her career, to cut her teeth at Vogue Italia under the watchful eye of its longtime editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani. There she spent 18 years honing her skills and worked alongside all of the biggest photographers of the 80s and 90s. Then in the year 2000, she was tapped to become the creative director of L’Uomo Vogue before going out on her own as a creative consultant in 2006. She is also currently the fashion editor-at-large for Vogue Japan, creating one iconic cover image after another for the magazine.Throughout her career, Anna has been paying forward the generosity and mentorship she received from Sozzanni to up and coming stylists. Many of her former assistants have gone on to their own successful careers in the industry after being trained up by Anna. And three years ago she took the concept of giving back even further by becoming the international brand ambassador of the Istituto Marangoni, teaching its students from around the world about how to telegraph their sartorial ideas through visual storytelling that both grabs the viewers’ attention and makes them dream.Full disclosure, I have known Anna for years and she is hands down one of the most positive, heartful, and generous people working in fashion today. You can always count on Anna to find a way to make any situation fun and unforgettable.
066 Steven Kolb: The CFDA's Pragmatic Visionary CEO12 Dec 202000:35:10
Steven Kolb and I have traveled in the same circles for years. But until this podcast, we never really had the chance to have a deep dive discussion about life in general and more specifically, life in fashion. As the CEO of the CFDA, Steven is basically the ringmaster of New York Fashion Week, so it is a bit difficult to pin him down. But what I have always appreciated about him is how level headed he is. Even in the eye of the fashion tornado, you can count on Steven to be matter-of-fact with his insights, feedback, and suggestions. Over the years, he has been a driving force behind some of the CFDA’s more important projects, from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and the CFDA Fashion Incubator program to the CFDA Fashion Awards. Not to mention the many initiatives he, and by extension, the CFDA, have supported over the years that shine a light on issues such as better representation, equity, and inclusivity within the fashion industry. Just this year Steven launched RUNWAY360 in reaction to the COVID-19 pandemic to create a digital platform for New York fashion designers to show content-rich online presentations of their collections when social distancing made in-person fashion weeks a non-starter. And at the same time, he flipped the script on this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund turning it into a fundraiser called A Common Thread to aid those fashion businesses that have been most impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic.In this podcast, Steven and I talk about where he sees fashion weeks headed in the future, how his outsider’s perspective has helped him be even more effective as the CEO of the CFDA, and what his favorite part of his job is. Also do listen all the way to the end of this podcast because Steven’s answers to my 5 generic fashion questions are just fantastic.
065 Sascha Lilic: The Stylist Who Tells It Like It is05 Nov 202000:47:19
Creative director and stylist Sascha Lilic is a fashion month’s fixture. His distinctive look, of a beret and monocle, always makes him easy to spot at a show. You can also always count on Sascha to give you a great sound bite about what he thinks of a presentation, and it’s often something that will make you laugh out loud or blush. Maybe it was all those years working alongside his mentor, the iconic photographer Helmut Newton, who was also known not to mince words, that formed Sascha’s talent for finding the perfect bon mots.But to be fair, Sascha, who was born in Yugoslavia and grew up in Germany, was always fascinated by the world of fashion and its fundamental transformational properties. By the tender age of 16, he was already working as a hairdresser and make-up artist, before he finally got his first break as a stylist. And once he did, he never looked back. Sascha became the fashion & creative director of influential 90s era SPOON magazine before moving on to become the editor-in-chief of ABOVE magazine, which Sascha launched in 2004 and sold for a pretty penny right at the height of excess before the global recession of 2008. And since then, he has been using his talents on all sorts of different fashion fronts, as a stylist, fashion consultant, creative director...you name it...if it has to do with fashion and creativity, Sascha is your man. A claim that is backed up by the laundry list of publications, photographers, and celebrities he has worked with. Which include, but not limited to Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair, Interview, V Man, Harper's Bazaar, Esquire, Glamour, LʼOfficiel, and Grazia. And besides his longtime collaboration with Newton, Sascha has also teamed up with other leading photographers like Ellen von Unwerth, Norman Jean Roy, and William Klein...and I could go on. His visual eye has transformed everyone from Lana del Rey, Jessica Chastain, Sienna Miller, Rihanna, Lily James, Diane Kruger, Keira Knightley, Lea Seydoux and I could go on and on. So let’s just say that Sascha has quite a lot of great fashion stories to tell. Which is why I wanted to jump on a zoom call with him for this podcast. To tell us all about his extraordinary life, lived to the fullest, in fashion.
064 Nick Wooster: Fashion's Consummate Consultant11 Oct 202000:36:57
As Japan Fashion Week is almost upon us, it is fitting that I finally post my Fashion Your Seatbelt interview with Nick Wooster. Nick and I met up at Japan Fashion Week back in October of last year; long before anybody had ever heard the words COVID or Coronavirus. Originally, I had planned on posting this podcast in March, when the last Japan Fashion Week was scheduled to start. But then the world shut down and the fashion week didn’t take place in the real world. But what do Japan Fashion Week and Nick Wooster have in common? Well, Nick, who is consistently one of the best-dressed men I have ever seen, is a world-class fashion consultant and he has been coming to Japan for years on buying trips. And basically, he has fallen in love with the country. Today he even sits on the jury of the prestigious Tokyo Fashion Award. In the past, Nick has worked as a buyer at Bergdof Goodman, he was the director of retail merchandising at Calvin Klein, the design director of the Polo Ralph Lauren brand, and later he held the role of the men's fashion director at Neiman Marcus. Over the years there have been a few bumps in the road of his career path, which he will talk about, but today Nick is living his best life as a fashion consultant working with and advising a number of different fashion brands around the world. Nick feels that it is his love of being a fashion consumer that is part of the reason he has been able to continue to be successful in the fashion sphere. His ability to maintain a user’s point of view makes it possible for him to give his clients clear-eyed opinions and criticisms with the confidence of a true blue luxury consumer.So sit back and enjoy Nick talking about what he loves most - fashion.
063 Milan Vukmirovic: Fashion's Renaissance Man25 Sep 202000:55:21
I am going to be very honest here and say that every time I end up being placed next to Milan Vukmiorvic at the front row of a fashion show, a smile spontaneously forms on my face. And at the exact same moment, I say a little prayer that the show will run a bit later than normal. This is because Milan is just a great front row buddy. He and I end up always getting into these extensive philosophical conversations about the current state of fashion. We discuss the nuances of shifting tides of trends we have picked up over the season and what we both think that might mean for the future of fashion. So you can imagine that with the current upheaval of the industry, I wanted to find a way to have another front row deep dive debrief with Milan, so the two of us jumped onto a Zoom call to hash things out. And what makes talking with Milan so engrossing is that his career in fashion is so varied and vast. He was a multifaceted creative before that was even a thing. Just to give you a bit of background. Milan was born in France to a Serbian family and grew up in Paris, he studied at ESMOD and then, after an internship at the Jardins des Modes, in 1996 he co-founded the concept store, Colette. He went on to become a design director for the Gucci Group during the reign of Tom Ford, then came a stint as the creative director of Jil Sander, and after that, he re-launched the magazine L’Officiel Hommes Paris as its editor-in-chief and creative director, where over 7 years he expanded the brand to more than a dozen international versions of the title. In 2007 he returned to designing for a fashion house, this time as the creative director of Trussardi. And as a side hustle, he co-founded The Webster Miami, another ultra-cool concept store. Then in 2011, he launched his own menswear bi-annual book magazine hybrid he named Fashion for Men, of which he remains the editor-in-chief. And if that wasn’t enough, he also took on the duty of menswear creative director of Ports in 2015. So Milan clearly likes to keep busy. And his work as a buyer, a designer, a stylist, an editor, and a photographer, just to name a few of the titles he has carried over the years, gives him a very unique perspective on the world of fashion. This is why, when we finally were able to connect, I simply pointed Milan in the direction of a topic I wanted to get his thoughts on and let him rip. I am sure that once you have listened to what he has to say you too will be trying to find a way to sit next to him in the front row of a show.
062 Carine Bizet: The Fearless French Fashion Critic18 Sep 202000:40:13
This intro is going to be a very short one. Basically, I want to jump right in and let you all listen for yourself as the French fashion critic Carine Bizet, who is not one to live her life as an open book on Instagram, finally gives us a glimpse into her life in fashion. Carine is one of only a handful of true “take no prisoners”, speak truth to power fashion writers working in the industry.Well, actually she is no longer working in the industry. Earlier this year, after building a name for herself at Madame Figaro and leaving an indelible black ink mark on Le Monde with her must-read fashion reviews as the renowned French newspaper’s lead fashion journalist, she quietly, with no fan fair or big send-off, decided to leave it all behind. After decades of working at the epicenter of the fashion universe, sitting in the front row at ALL of the shows and interviewing every designer under the sun...that she found worth profiling….Carine decided to start her second act, working in a totally different field. Yes, a creative one, but still a 180-degree change from her career as a writer.So I felt this was the perfect time to speak with her. To have a no holds barred discussion about what got her interested in fashion in the first place, the current state of the industry, and where she thinks it will go. And why, when she was at the top of her game she decided to walk away from it all to chase a new dream.Full disclosure. I have known Carine for years and I feel that I can say without a doubt that, in a world where superficial friendships are part of the game, she is ride or die. Carine is one you can count on. She will give it to you straight, whether you are one of her closest friends, a designer, or a billion-dollar fashion house. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Carine and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And now I am going to turn it over to Carine, because if there is one thing I love to do is listen to her tell it like it is.
061 Michel Gaubert: Fashion's Master of Music11 Sep 202000:44:29
For decades in the world of fashion, there has really only been one man who has given the industry its sonographic soundtrack. And that man is Michel Gaubert. Michel eats, sleeps, and breaths music. It has been the framework of what he does in his career, as a sound director for most of the leading fashion houses on the planet, and it has been the guiding force in his life as well. His fascination with music is what pushed him to learn English, move to California in his youth and it is through music that he has made some of his deepest and lifelong friendships.Michel’s passion for music has always been intertwined with fashion. As early as 5 years old, he dreamed about being a musician; as much for the amazing clothing, they wore as the music they made. Later, at the end of the 1970s, his years-long devotion to music turned into a two-pronged career. During the week he was a buyer of international music for the renowned record store Champs Disques, and on the weekend he was a DJ at the famed Le Palace nightclub. Karl Lagerfeld was an avid collector of music and it was at Champs Disques that the designer first crossed paths with Michel. Later it would be Lagerfeld that would give Michel his first big break designing the soundtrack for one of his signature shows. And eventually, he would call on Michel to do the music for Chanel as well, the first time with less than 24 hours notice. Their artistic collaborations would continue for close to four decades and span the Chanel, Fendi, and Lagerfeld brands. Over the years Michel has gone on to create musical memories for brands and designers big and small. From Dior, Valentino, Gucci, and Loewe to Raf Simons, J.W. Anderson, and Jeremy Scott. Not to mention the music he has created for the fashion store Colette, numerous exhibitions, store openings, and global events. His collaborations with designers tend to endure for decades as Michel’s encyclopedic knowledge of music, his collaborative nature, and, without question, his endless positivity and good humor make him someone you just want to spend time with. If you want to get an even better sense of Michel after listening to this podcast, besides listening to some of the amazing mixes he has created for shows over the years, I suggest following him on Instagram at @MichelGaubert. His feed is a riot and is always an instant pick me up.Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Michel and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. Now, it’s time to enjoy the dulcet sound of Michel’s own voice as he talks about the love of his life - music.
060 Louise Trotter: Lacoste's First Leading Lady04 Sep 202000:32:28
Sometimes it just feels like destiny when a designer lands at a fashion house. This is the case for British designer Louise Trotter, who took up the mantle of creative director at Lacoste at the tail end of 2018. Growing up she played a considerable amount of tennis and Lacoste was always her go-to label. Her husband is also a bit of a tennis nut and over the years has built up his own collection of Lacoste pieces that take up considerable room in his closet. But perhaps the most profound connection comes from the one that Louise feels with the founder of the company, René Lacoste. His rebellious decision to become a tennis player on his own terms resonated with Louise, who from a very early age knew she wanted to be a fashion designer, a career path that really wasn’t a consideration for most kids growing up in the north England town of Sunderland. It was René’s moral code and approach to life on and off the courts that Louise connected with. His strategic yet stylish way of playing the game, his sense of fair play, tenacity, and bringing joy into whatever he did, are all values that are close to Louise’s own heart. And it's the reason why, while still riding high after a successful 10-year stint at the label Joseph, she decided to make the leap to Lacoste and become the brand’s first female creative director in the house’s almost 90-year history. Since her arrival at the house, Louise had been quick to put her own stamp on the label. Her signature aesthetic slants to the oversized; be that silhouettes, patterns and prints, or even the iconic Lacoste crocodile. And her approach to the performance wear heritage of the house has been to look at it as creating clothing that “performs” daily. Day in and day out, week after week. Garments that are so well made, flattering, and still maintain a fashion-forward viewpoint that they are the ones that men and women continually turn to. But what I found perhaps most appealing about Louise during our interview was that she is all about the work. She is not a diva designer with an ego that could fill a room. If she doesn’t know about something, say having an encyclopedic knowledge about high tech performance fabrics, she says so, takes steps to educate herself, and is always looking to learn new things. She is one of those “best idea wins” designers. Encouraging her staff to speak up and she has created a workplace that promotes teamwork. For Louise, each collection is a new chapter in a continuous journey of sartorial discovery.After listening to this podcast, and learning about how Louise likes to work, Lacoste is probably going to find itself inundated with resumes from people wanting to learn from a leader who is as open, inclusive, and creative as Louise.
059 Christian Lacroix: Fashion's Master of Color and Print02 Aug 202000:44:15
I’ll never forget my first Christian Lacroix fashion show. Watching all of the supermodels walk his catwalk in outfits that mixed colors, patterns, and prints in combinations my mind could never have conceived would ever work together, let alone look as fabulously as they did on the Lacroix catwalk. Lacroix’s shows were always full of energy, passion, and precision but above all love...with just the perfect dash of joie de vivre added in for good measure. By the end of every show, the audience was always revved up to throw out onto the catwalk, during the grand finale, the single carnation that was systematically placed on each seat at each show throughout the designer’s prodigious career. That was why, when I showed up at the Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show and saw a single carnation sitting on my seat...well...I am going to be honest...my heart skipped a beat. Was this the return of Lacroix I asked myself? And to a certain extent, it was. The famed designer, who had walked away from the catwalk after his fall/winter 2009 haute couture show, was back. This time working in collaboration with Van Noten for one season only. Let’s just say it was a fashion moment, and the show was certainly a highlight in my career. But Lacroix hasn’t been in hiding since he stopped doing fashion shows. He turned to theater and Opera houses, creating dreamlike confections for the stage. A place where his theatrical sartorial inclinations were right at home. And also he consulted for big name brands in need of a designer who is a master of the color wheel and has never met a print he doesn’t like.I spoke with Christian in the wake of his triumphant return to the catwalk. To take a joyful stroll down memory lane together. For me, it was a pure moment of bliss. I know, when you listen to our conversation, it will be one for you as well.
058 Marine Serre: The Designer Upcycling Fashion's Future25 Jul 202000:29:00
When you meet Marine Serre for the first time, it is hard not to notice; or maybe a better word would be feel, the pent up energy in her diminutive frame. It is easy to understand why she spent years as a child playing tennis at almost a professional level before turning her drive towards design. You can practically see the wheels turning in her head as if she is doing a million things at once. And yet...and I don’t know exactly how... Marine also has a reserved shyness about her. It is a potent and powerful combination that honestly just makes you want to get to know her better.With all that has happened in the world in the past six months, Marine’s fashion seems almost Cassandra-like. Her signature house is built on the concept of using up-cycled materials to make her garments - and then she presents them in post-apocalyptic themed runway shows., often with her models wearing face masks and gloves, carrying reusable water bottles and armbands made into mini backpacks. Fashion, including her now iconic demi-lune motif full bodysuits, that seem purposely designed with protection from the elements in mind. The 27-year-old designer was born in the little village of Corrèze in France but by the age of 14 she had left home to pursue her love of art and fashion. She went on to attend the famed La Cambre fashion and design academy in Belgium, graduating with honors in 2016. Then came a string of internships at top houses like Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela, and Dior before Marine landed a junior designer job at Balenciaga. And it was while she was still working at Balenciaga that, to her surprise and no one else’s, she won the top LVMH Prize in 2017. The youngest designer ever to hold that honor. Since then, Marine has been on fire. Using all of that crackling energy of hers to expand the number of lines she produces each season to celebrate different aspects of her up-cycling creative esthetic. She also has added into the mix a menswear line, has done collaborations with the likes of Nike, and has seen her work worn by global powerhouse females like Beyonce, the group Black Pink and Dua Lipa.Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Marine and I did our interview before the global pandemic put the world into confinement, and kept me from accessing this audio recording. So I hope you enjoy taking an auditory trip back in time. When the world was much more innocent and before Marine’s sartorial philosophy became the new normal.
057 Mary Vogt - The Hollywood Costume Designer You Need to Know10 Jul 202000:50:28
The art of a costume designer is to tell a story without saying a word. So let’s just get this straight right from the start, Hollywood costume designer Mary Vogt has spoken volumes over her impressive career. One that is filled with spellbinding sartorial stories that have stood the test of time. Because let’s face it, it doesn’t get more iconic than having the ensembles you designed for a film become tentpole cosplay outfits and Halloween costumes for generations.Mary is the mind behind the amazing costumes in the staple Halloween film Hocus Pocus that starred Bette Midler and Sarah Jessica Parker. She is also the woman who came up with Michelle Pfeiffer’s unforgettable Catwoman suit in Batman Returns. And she made “I make this look good” Will Smith and the rest of the Men In Black team look sharp and sleek over the span of the three MIB films. And for those of you who are more interested in fashion-focused feature films, well then you can thank Mary for bringing you Crazy Rich Asians. Arguably the most fashion-loving film of recent memory, filled with one unforgettable designer outfit after another.From a very young age, Mary knew that being a costume designer was her calling. While everyone else in her theatrical hometown of Long Beach, Long Island wanted to be an actor and stand center stage in the local theater troupe, Mary was only interested in creating the costumes. After high school, she attended the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and then later she went to the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, California. She quickly realized that instead of being a traditional fashion designer, her creativity was sparked by a good story or character which she could then build a wardrobe around. Mary got her toe in the door in Hollywood as an illustrator and then eventually got her first big break working alongside Bob Ringwood on David Lynch’s epic film Dune and would work with Ringwood again later, but this time as his co-designer, on Tim Burton’s Batman Returns. And we all know what costumes came out of that collaboration. With close to 50 costume designer film credits under her belt, Mary is at the top of any Hollywood director’s must hire list. Her expert ability to use clothing to help her directors advance their story or transmit the underlying message they want to subconsciously communicate with their audience is highly sought after. All you have to do is take a look at her most recent collaboration, with Gina Prince-Bythewood, the director of the Netflix film The Old Guard - that drops today on the streaming platform - to understand just how skilled Mary is at telling a story with clothing. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Mary and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.And now it's time for Mary to come out from behind the curtain and take a well-deserved bow under the spotlight and at the center stage of this podcast.
056 Gabriella Cortese - Antik Batik's Founder Finds Success in Boho Chic03 Jul 202000:28:35
What is that old saying, “do a job that you love and you will never work a day in your life”. That is the life that Gabriella Cortese is lucky enough to lead. She is the founder and visionary behind the brand Antik Batik and as part of her job, she gets to travel the world for months at a time looking for new ways to incorporate the beauty of ethnic designs and craftsmanship of local artisans into her Bohemian chic collections.Born in Turin, Italy Gabriella grew up with eclectic style inspirations all around her. Her mother instilled in her a love of beautiful things and an eye towards well-made clothing. While her Hungarian grandmother expanded her style palette by introducing her to the beauty of the Mitteleuropa aesthetic. After living a rather sheltered childhood Gabriella decided to explore the world when she turned 18.A choice that found her living in Paris, France, and working as a dancer at the famed Crazy Horse cabaret. There she learned how effective the use of pattern and light can be as it plays on the body. A skill that would come in handy later at Antik Batik when she began to design clothing out of graphic and dramatically printed fabrics. But before the idea of starting a label had ever entered into her mind, Gabriella decided that while she was young she wanted to continue to see the world and she spent years visiting places like Bali, Tibet, Nepal, and India. Then, not unlike Ralph Lauren who got his start selling men’s ties, Gabriella began her business by selling a single item - the Pareos. Her beautiful wrap skirts, that she had created with local artists in Bali using the batik printing technique, were an instant hit. So in 1992 she launched Antik Batik and began to corner the market for those women looking for a sophisticated slant on hippy chic ethnic fashion at a time when minimalism was at its peak. From its inception, Gabriella was determined that Antik Batik would be an eco-friendly brand dedicated to supporting artisans in far-flung countries who have the unique skill set to create her colorful and richly embroidered designs. And for the past three decades, she has built up long-lasting relationships with many of her suppliers in India and elsewhere. She sees them as part of her extended family and the work they do as the beating heart of her successful business. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Gabriella and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now, it's time to discover how Gabriella built up a global business out of her passion for travel and her devotion to ethnic elegance.
055 Rebecca Todd - The Straight Talking Hollywood Stylist26 Jun 202000:48:34
Rebecca Todd is one of those “she is just born with it” stylists. Self-taught and a straight talker she is at the top of the stylist game in Hollywood. And that is because Rebecca is constantly hustling, networking, and pushing herself creatively. That drive has resulted in a highly successful career in both styling and costume design that spans over 20 years. And her mile-long list of clients includes everyone from Blake Lively, Kobe Bryant, Melissa McCarthy, and Dwayne Johnson to Elle MacPherson, Ryan Hansen, Lizzy Caplan, and the one and only Betty White. Rebecca started out in Hollywood in public relations, which evolved into merchandising and buying before she got bitten by the stylist bug. And almost from the moment she decided that being a stylist was her dream job her career took off. In less than a year, she was styling for America’s Next Top Model and then became the head of the wardrobe departments of numerous shows on the E! Entertainment channel and The Style Network.Over the span of her career, she has done everything from celebrity styling and fashion magazine editorials for publications like Flaunt, People, Us Weekly, LA Confidential and Maxim to creating the visual story for advertising campaigns for companies such as Ford, Nike, Pepsi, Starbucks, Showtime, Google, AT&T, Budweiser, Toyota, and Universal Studios - just to name a few. Not to mention her red carpet work at all the top awards shows, The Oscars, The Emmys, The Golden Globes as well as the MTV Music and MTV Video awards shows. Earlier this year she continued to challenge herself during the quarantine and designed to launch her own clothing line called Grey Hayes. Its message t-shirts, hats, and masks are all inspired by the lockdown. The clothing, sporting phrases like Stay Home, Worst Birthday Ever, Essential, Back The F#CK Up and Mental Distanced, have been selling like hotcakes. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Rebecca and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now to all you future stylists out there, get out your pens and paper and pay close attention to what Rebecca has to say in this podcast. Her tips and tricks are a masterclass on not only how to become a successful stylist, but also how to stay on top in Hollywood.
054 Kevin Germanier - The Designer Making Sustainable Fashion Glamorous19 Jun 202000:36:02
In the fashion world, there are a handful of times that you run across an up and coming designer that is so earnest, articulate, and talented that you make a secret wish in your heart that you hope they’ll make it big. That is exactly how I felt after talking with the 28-year-old designer Kevin Germanier for this podcast. I had seen his work before first hand at press day presentations in Paris. And Kevin’s vibrant, beaded, and bold designs always stood out. But what also made them stand out in my mind was when I discovered that his garments were of the luxury upcycled variety. Kevin’s made to measure and limited edition collections are as far away from the hippy hemp and organic cotton, Birkenstock wearing image - that sustainable fashion is still strongly associated with- as you could get. This Swiss-born designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins and launched his signature line in 2018 while still a junior designer at Louis Vuitton, found a way to make sustainable fashion look sexy. Look feminine. And look fun. His sculptural silhouettes and love of embellishments firmly place his work in the “statement dressing” category. But isn’t it nice to know that his commitment to conscious design sees his garments covered in shimmering upcycled crystals from Swarovski and the fabric comes from offshoots that are getting a second lease on life.Not surprisingly Kevin’s vivid designs have already been worn by the likes of Lady Gaga, Björk, and K-pop star Sunmi. He was also shortlisted for the 2019 LVMH Prize for young designers. And the leading fashion e-commerce platform MatchesFashion picked up his debut collection for its site, which it has been carrying ever since. So it looks like he is off to a very strong start. And maybe that secret wish of mine might actually come true. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Kevin and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now come with me to discover the glamorous, colorful, and eco-friendly world of Kevin Germanier.
052 Hillary France - The CEO of Brand Assembly Has Got Fashion's Back12 Jun 202000:31:58
A self-described “supply chain nerd” Hillary France, the CEO and co-founder of Brand Assembly, is helping fashion creatives focus on crafting their visions of the future while she and her team take on the day to day, back of house fundamental tasks that any growing small business has to master if it wants to become successful. Her full-service BtoB business does everything from bookkeeping, warehouse management, and running e-commerce operations to creating costing sheets, merchandising and sales plans, and even social media and global marketing strategies. But Hillary, who founded her company in 2013, wanted to do even more for her clients. She also organizes trade shows and created a co-working space called The Square, with locations in New York and Los Angeles, for people to meet up and hopefully collaborate on the next big thing. She also hosts monthly panels and workshops to help her clients stay on top of the latest innovations taking place in the industry.Before branching out on her own, Hillary, who is a graduate of Duke University, cut her retail buying and wholesale teeth at marquee brands like Diane von Furstenberg, Kate Spade, Guess and Kimberly Ovitz. And was even behind the launch of the Rachel Zoe brand for the Li and Fung company. Today, just like thousands of other fashion-focused companies Hillary has had to pivot her business working model post-pandemic as the world continues to maintain social distancing practices. Brand Assembly is launching later this month its first ever virtual tradeshow platform with two portals: one for Brand Assembly Show called Pages and one for Reassembled Show called Grid. Brand Assembly is also adding other forms of virtual content such as panel discussions, workshops and showroom walk-throughs on Zoom on the dates they would usually have had their in-person trade show, from June 22nd through to June 24th.The tag line for Brand Assembly is “Our mission is simple: help brands reach theirs”. It is clear that Hillary has taken this message to heart and has no intention of letting something like a global pandemic or a corona economy keep her from giving brands the support they need to become the successes they always dreamed of. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Hillary and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now let’s listen to Hillary talk about how she sees the future of fashion shaping up, as she takes on the topics of seasonal collections, markdown cycles, and the growing power of the digital space for fashion brands.
052 Nellie Partow: The Designer Who Is Always In Your Corner05 Jun 202000:34:21
It says something about a brand that when you click on the about page on its website to get the backstory on the designer, a YouTube video of her boxing in the center ring at Madison Square Garden pops up. Showing her winning her title fight in front of a sold-out crowd. If nothing else the footage clearly illustrates that designer Nellie Partow knows how to roll with the punches and has no intention of ever being down for the count.Which is a good thing considering that her independent label finds itself in that ambiguous middle ground of no longer being a new brand on the rise nor one that has achieved world domination. Partow, which the designer launched in 2011, is one of those sleeper hit fashion houses. You know the ones I am talking about. The brands whose names you whisper in the ears of only your closest friends when they ask you where you got that amazing relaxed fit purple suit or the dress with architectural pleating on the bodice or strategically placed cut-outs. Partow’s aesthetic is one of modern minimalism. Where the use of color and structural detail work help to elevate the understated foundation to a more refined realm. Nellie’s design approach is perfectly understandable considering that - after graduating from Parsons - and just like with her boxing training, she put in the hours, days, months, and years learning her craft. Working at Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, and John Varvatos for a cumulative 10-year stint before she hung up her own shingle. Her slow but steady wins the race philosophy to fashion has worked well for Nellie. Only three years after launching her brand she found herself making a profit. Something that is almost unheard of in the industry. In 2015 she became a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, AKA the CFDA. And 2019, according to the designer, was her best year yet - as she started to scale up her label adding in new categories to her staple “work as hard as the woman wearing them” designs. Even the pandemic hasn’t stopped her from moving forward with the launch, this month, of an e-commerce component to her website.Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Nellie and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues and the sound of Nellie’s very friendly dog Mika barking with excitement while we chat. Also if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now, for all you future fashion designers out there my advice would be to take a page out of Nellie’s playbook. She launched her brand in the wake of the 2008 recession but since then she has continually been punching above her weight to create a knockout brand that has the potential to go all the way.
051 JJ Martin: The Entrepreneur Putting a Bold Stamp on Fashion29 May 202000:48:13
I have known JJ Martin for my entire professional career. And yet, until this podcast interview, I hadn’t realized just how much our lives were parallel. We are both California girls, we both left the United States to follow our hearts to Europe, and we both became top fashion journalists in international fashion capitals. Now all of this is a fun side note to this interview. But the real reason I wanted to speak with JJ is to finally learn the how and why behind her choice to launch her company, La Double J, in 2015. If ever there was an inspirational story about how to be fearless when it comes to pivoting and creating a second act for your career, it’s JJ’s story. But I am getting a bit ahead of myself. In this podcast, you will hear all about how JJ was able to start to follow her passion for fashion through the fields of advertising and marketing. How she ended up living in Milan, not speaking a word of Italian. And how a chance meeting with the renowned fashion journalist Godfrey Deeny put her on the path to becoming one of the top fashion writers in Milan, eventually spending 15 years on staff at publications like The Wall Street Journal, Harper’s Bazaar and *Wallpaper. Today, however, JJ’s love of fashion, and more specifically bold prints and great Italian artisans, has manifested itself into one of the industry’s most beloved independent businesses. La Double J is an e-commerce website that extols all things vibrant and vivid. Her curated selection of vintage patterned prints on easy to wear dresses, pants, and tops have made her site the go-to place for anyone who loves to be the center of attention when they walk in a room. Better yet, JJ has smartly evolved the company to become an avenue for her to highlight the work of Italian artists and brands that she feels need to be celebrated, such as the porcelain company Ancap, the Venetian glassmaker Salviati, the luxury handbag company Valextra and Acqua di Parma, by creating collaborations that blend their work with her own uniquely colorful universe. More recently JJ has expanded La Double J even further into the lifestyle brand space with a new focus on the world of wellness and helping women around the planet find their inner goddess. In the section on her site dedicated to living like an Italian, JJ discusses topics like the power of color on the psyche, chakras, and the movement practice of Qi Gong.Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that JJ and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now get ready to be inspired by JJ’s story. How she was able to manifest the career she wanted through passion, determination and hard work should motivate all of us. now more than ever, to start following our dreams.
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