“Due Time presents: The Watchers” is your weekly recap of the watch world. Hosted by Rod Dye and Rio, the show breaks down new releases, watch headlines, creator content, market stories, and the moments the community is talking about.
Stay tuned for fast takes, interviews, and everything shaping today’s watch culture.
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Rolex vs Grand Seiko, Watch Culture & 2 Picks Under $1,000 with Andy’s Watches
Monday, February 23, 2026 • Duration 57:05
What really sits behind the loud opinions on Rolex, Grand Seiko, and modern watch hype? In this episode, Andy Berg, better known as Andy’s Watches, joins to break down watch culture, collecting, and value without gatekeeping. Andy shares his path from blue-collar work and addiction recovery to becoming one of the fastest-rising voices in watchmaking and collecting, unpacks why some collectors “hate” Rolex, and gets candid about Grand Seiko, the Omega Planet Ocean, and which brands actually listen to their community. Along the way, you’ll hear real bench stories, practical buying guidance, and 2 under-$1,000 picks that prove great collecting isn’t about hype or budget, it’s about fit, value, and culture.
Things You’ll Learn
1. Why loud “Rolex hate” often says more about watch culture than the watches themselves.
2. How Andy’s background as a machinist, roofer, welder, and comedian shaped his approach to collecting and content.
3. How to think clearly about value when buying watches under $1,000 without chasing hype.
Tools / Frameworks Matt Shares
- Try-Before-You-Buy (Without Handling It): Using YouTube wrist shots and reference searches to judge size, proportions, and presence.
- Brand Listening Meter: How brands like Citizen, Omega, Rolex, Seiko, Grand Seiko, and Baume & Mercier respond (or don’t) to community feedback.
- Age & Budget Lens: Why sub-$1,000 recommendations look different for 20-somethings versus 40-somethings.
Key Timestamps
0:00 - Andys Watches + wrist check
8:30 - Andy's journey and inspiration for doing content
13:51 - How “rating watch collections without permission” was born
21:03 - Personal style, Rolex vs Grand Seiko
34:43 - Advice to new watch collectors
41:22 - Why brand ambassadors feel outdated
49:25 - 2 watches under $1,000: Hamilton Khaki Expedition vs Cincinnati Watch Company Cincinnatus
How Rook & Castle Was Built From Collecting, Culture, and Community
Tuesday, February 10, 2026 • Duration 49:44
What actually separates a meaningful watch micro-brand from one built on hype? In this episode, Rod Dye and Rio sit down with Matt Castilla, founder of Rook & Castle, to unpack the real decisions behind designing tank-style watches like La Promencia / Adagio Marino and Carmine Nocturne—from gradient dials and crown details to ultra-limited production runs. Matt shares his journey as a collector-turned-founder, including restoring a vintage Lorus Mickey Mouse watch, lessons learned navigating authorized dealers, and why collecting for value is different from chasing resale.
The conversation spans watch culture, restoration stories, brand legacy, and community access, with references to pieces like the Cartier Tank, Oris Hank Aaron, Rolex Datejust “Wimbledon,” Day-Date, Sky-Dweller, Oysterquartz, Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1463, Furlan Marri, Movado, Invicta, and a vintage Audemars Piguet gold quartz. This episode offers a clear, grounded look at watchmaking, collecting, valuation, and how new voices are shaping the future of the watch community.
Things You’ll Learn
1. How dial design, gradients, and light impact perceived value in modern watchmaking
2. Why ultra-limited production matters for micro-brands and collectors alike
3. How to navigate collecting, restoration, and authorized dealers without gatekeeping
Tools / Frameworks Matt Shares
- Designing watches around dial impact, gradients, and light to create emotional response.
- Using ultra-limited production runs to balance exclusivity with accessibility.
- Treating watchmaking as legacy-building, not resale speculation.
How a Missed Rolex Sky-Dweller Led to the Tomlin & Co Celestial Calendar
Monday, January 26, 2026 • Duration 43:10
What starts as a guilt-free year-end watch purchase turns into a full micro-brand when Shakeem Tomlin refuses to pay resale prices and decides to build his own watch instead. In this episode, Rod and Rio sit down with the founder of Tomlin & Co to trace the real journey behind the Celestial Calendar, from early design sketches and movement selection to launching a full calendar moonphase watch built for everyday wear.
Shakeem shares how growing up in Philly shaped his approach to collecting and design, why quartz made sense for an entry-level complication piece, how his wife influenced key colorways, and what it’s like navigating watch culture as a Black-owned brand. Along the way, the conversation touches on Rolex Sky-Dweller (mint green), Breitling, Audemars Piguet, integrated bracelets, trade shows, community support, and building value without gatekeeping.
Things You’ll Learn
1. How Tomlin & Co evolved from a personal watch idea into a launched micro-brand.
2. Why the Celestial Calendar uses a full calendar + moonphase quartz movement for everyday collecting.
3. How community, culture, and representation shape modern watch culture and brand building.
Tools/Frameworks in This Episode
- A year-end “guilt-free purchase” ritual as a practical collecting framework.
- Using email lists, existing networks, and in-person events to launch a micro-brand.
- A “Reasonable Doubt” design philosophy: building one watch that doesn’t feel like it’s missing anything.
Key Timestamps
0:00 – Tomlin & Co introduction + wrist check
7:10 – Shakeem’s Philly background and path into watches
From a Layaway Rolex to a De Bethune Grail with CJ Webster
Monday, January 12, 2026 • Duration 45:23
What happens when someone looks at your Rolex and calls it a “modest watch”? In this episode, Rod and Rio sit down with collector and mentor CJ Webster to trace how that moment reshaped his entire approach to collecting, value, and watch culture. From buying a Rolex Datejust 16233 on layaway to earning an Omega Speedmaster allocation and ultimately acquiring a De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius, CJ explains how humility, curiosity, and community accelerate real learning. Along the way, the conversation explores watch culture in Miami and Columbus, why the story behind the watch matters more than hype, and how clubs, books, and local meetups help collectors make better decisions. Watches discussed include the Tissot PRX, Tissot Sideral Powermatic 80, Swatch x Omega Speedmaster, AP Royal Oak, Cartier Santos (including titanium), Omega Seamaster (Planet Ocean and No Time To Die), Hamilton day-date field automatic, Studio Underd0g, Casio, Grand Seiko, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, F.P. Journe, Christopher Ward Bell Canto, the Miami Watch Club world-timer, and Rolex references like Pepsi, Batman, Batgirl, Bruce Wayne, and Hulk; all grounded in real collecting experience and community-driven value.Things You’ll Learn
How CJ moved from a layaway Rolex Datejust 16233 to an Omega Speedmaster allocation and a De Bethune grail.
How watch community, including Miami Watch Club and 614 Watch Club, accelerates knowledge, access, and buying decisions.
Why humility and curiosity matter more than price, specs, or hype in long-term collecting.
Buy-What-You-Want Rule: Why settling leads to regret and unworn watches.
Community-First Collecting: Using clubs, meetups, and local shops to learn faster and buy smarter.
Story-Driven Value: Understanding condition, provenance, and personal history to shape meaningful collections.
Tools/FrameworksTimestamps0:00 – Welcome + wrist check7:32 – CJ’s early career and his first Rolex on layaway25:15 – Pride, ego, and emotional connection to watches33:50 – Inside Miami Watch Club and community culture37:17 – The story behind CJ’s Omega Speedmaster46:56 – Going back to Rolex49:36 – Fast cars, watches, cigars, and manhood55:09 – Advice for new collectors: humility and curiosity
How a 26-Year-Old Uses Watch Value, Trading, and Community to Collect Smart
Tuesday, December 30, 2025 • Duration 34:52
How does a 26-year-old day trader go from a bust-down Datejust to a single Richard Mille he’s ready to trade for a house? In this conversation, Rod and Rio sit with collector Sire Abram to trace his path from early trading wins in Iowa to building a focused collection rooted in watch value, risk management, and real-world marketplace dynamics. Sire breaks down the jump from bust-downs to Royal Oaks and Daytonas, how he navigates AD vs grey market plays, why some references hold emotional weight, and how he treats watches as both cultural artifacts and strategic assets. Listeners get a grounded look at buying right, collecting with intention, and understanding the psychology behind grails like the John Mayer Daytona and RM 10.
What You’ll Learn
1. How a day-trader mindset translates into watch collecting, value retention, and smart exits.
2. How AD vs grey strategies shape long-term watch value, especially for Rolex, AP, and Patek.
3. Why community, culture, provenance, and shared enthusiasm matter when building a modern collection.
Tools/Frameworks Mentioned
- Buy Right or Don’t Buy Framework
- Experience + Exit Mindset
- Leverage the Watch Strategy
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro & Wrist Check
2:26 From Iowa to Day-Trading “Proof of Concept”
3:24 Who Actually Succeeds at Trading?
4:30 First Big Watch: The Bust-Down Datejust Era
6:42 Turning Down Goldman Sachs for Trading
9:38 From Bust-Down to “Classy”: Datejust to Royal Oak
11:12 Hitting Grails: 5711, Day-Date, John Mayer Daytona
10 Keys to Watch Collecting: Buy Smart, Collect Better
Wednesday, December 24, 2025 • Duration 34:22
Most new collectors rush in, chase hype, and fill a watch box without understanding what truly fits their style or long-term goals.
In this episode of The Watchers, Rod Dye and Rio break down their 10 keys to watch collecting after a full year of hands-on learning, buying, selling, and refining. They walk you through the 10 keys to becoming a successful watch collector, including how to buy what you like, and why research brand heritage and movements matters. Along the way, they debunk investment myths, highlight the power of community, and show how collecting becomes more meaningful when you understand the craft and enjoy the journey.
What You’ll Learn
- Why buying what you like beats chasing hype and how personal style drives a meaningful collection.
- What “investment vs enjoyment” really means in watch collecting and why most pieces aren’t investment grade.
- How brand history, design DNA, and movements shape your preferences and long-term satisfaction.
- Why curation over accumulation leads to a stronger 5–10 watch lineup you actually love wearing.
- How provenance, condition, and “buying the seller” protect you in the marketplace.
Tools/Frameworks Mentioned
- The 10 Keys of Watch Collecting
- Buy the Seller, Not Just the Watch Filter
- Curation Over Accumulation Lens
Chapters
00:00 – Watches are not investments
01:31 – Wrist Check
05:02 – 10 Key to watch collecting
05:24 - Key #1: Buy What You Like
The Christopher Ward Story: Pricing, Servicing, and the Future with Michael Pearson
Tuesday, July 7, 2026 • Duration 38:23
Is Christopher Ward getting too expensive, or is the watch community just not paying attention to what's actually inside the case?
In this special in-person episode recorded at the first-ever Jump Hour event in Columbus, Rod Dye and Rio the Watcher sit down with Michael Pearson, Senior Vice President of the Americas for Christopher Ward, to break down the brand's explosive growth, its value proposition, and the criticism that comes with scaling fast.
André shares his journey from growing up 20 minutes from the Rolex factory to running insurance and marketing companies to landing the Maurice Lacroix role almost by accident. The conversation covers the Icon versus Royal Oak comparison, the Swatch x AP fallout and what it means for the broader industry, the upcoming 250th anniversary US limited edition, and why the future of watch sales might live in local communities rather than traditional retail.
Things You’ll Learn
How Maurice Lacroix grew US e-commerce 30% year over year without paid ambassadors or billboard campaigns.
Why the Swatch x AP collaboration is ultimately a net positive for the entire Swiss watch industry, including smaller brands.
How local watch societies and collector communities are influencing where luxury brands open their next boutiques.
Tools / Frameworks Matt Shares
The Biver Approach: Treat every person who approaches you like they deserve your time, regardless of whether a sale is coming.
Community-First Distribution: Using watch societies and collector clubs as organic sales channels when traditional retail presence is limited.
André Niklaus on Maurice Lacroix, Community-First Growth, and the Swatch AP Fallout
Saturday, June 27, 2026 • Duration 01:07:52
What does it take to build a Swiss watch brand in a market where nobody knows your name?
In this episode, André Niklaus, US Ambassador for the Americas for Maurice Lacroix, joins Rod Dye and Rio the Watcher to break down how a 51-year-old Swiss house is carving out space in the American market through community, authenticity, and a product that punches well above its price point.
André shares his journey from growing up 20 minutes from the Rolex factory to running insurance and marketing companies to landing the Maurice Lacroix role almost by accident. The conversation covers the Icon versus Royal Oak comparison, the Swatch x AP fallout and what it means for the broader industry, the upcoming 250th anniversary US limited edition, and why the future of watch sales might live in local communities rather than traditional retail.
Things You’ll Learn
How Maurice Lacroix grew US e-commerce 30% year over year without paid ambassadors or billboard campaigns.
Why the Swatch x AP collaboration is ultimately a net positive for the entire Swiss watch industry, including smaller brands.
How local watch societies and collector communities are influencing where luxury brands open their next boutiques.
Tools / Frameworks Matt Shares
The Biver Approach: Treat every person who approaches you like they deserve your time, regardless of whether a sale is coming.
Community-First Distribution: Using watch societies and collector clubs as organic sales channels when traditional retail presence is limited.
Three Stages of Collecting: Collectors typically move from big brands to niche exploration to curation.
First Time at Watches and Wonders: Dave The Watch Dude on What Nobody Tells You
Tuesday, June 9, 2026 • Duration 54:07
What's it actually like walking through the doors of Watches and Wonders for the first time?
In this episode, Dave The Watch Dude joins Rod Dye and Rio the Watcher, fresh off his first trip to Geneva, to break down everything from booking logistics and insider tips to the watches that blew him away and the exhibitions that fell flat.
Dave walks through standout releases from Parmigiani, Barron's, Laurent Ferrier, and more, explains why smaller independent brands stole the show, and shares the story of how a casual walk through the Hublot exhibition turned into a 20-minute sit-down with CEO Julien Tornare, complete with a cell phone number airdrop and a private event invite.
The trio also debates whether Rolex's conservative approach is genius or underwhelming, why Panerai needs to shake things up, and what the discontinuation of the Pepsi GMT signals for the market.
Things You’ll Learn
How to plan a Watches and Wonders trip on a budget, from flight timing to hotel strategy to free shuttles.
Why the smaller independent brands at Watches and Wonders often deliver the most surprising hands-on experiences.
How Rolex's subtle, long-game marketing strategy conditions collectors in ways most people don't notice.
Tools / Frameworks Matt Shares
The Product Presentation Hack: Book brand appointments through the Watches and Wonders app immediately after downloading.
The Stroller Skip: Attendees with babies in strollers bypassed every major brand line, including Rolex's two-hour wait.
The 10-Watch Rule, Moser Love, and Why Cartier Is Overrated with Seth Klebe
Sunday, May 24, 2026 • Duration 01:15:09
What does it look like when a tech sales leader applies the same discipline he uses in business to building a watch collection?
In this episode, Seth Klebe, host of the Watch The Tech podcast, joins Rod Dye and Rio the Watcher for a conversation that covers everything from the AP x Swatch collaboration to the emotional math behind selling a Vacheron Constantin 56 for a Rolex Hulk.
Seth traces his watch origin story back to a conference room full of executives wearing Breitlings and Omegas, explains why he caps his collection at 10 and lives by an “add one, subtract one” rule, and makes his case for H. Moser & Cie as his favorite brand despite not owning one. Along the way, the trio gets into AD transparency, the explosion of watch content, what it takes to grow a niche podcast, and Seth drops a take on Cartier that might sting a little.
Things You’ll Learn
Why capping your collection at a fixed number forces better decisions about what stays and what goes.
How the Blancpain x Swatch collaboration became a legitimate gateway into a luxury purchase.
What it actually sounds like when an AD tells you your odds of getting a grail are probably zero.
Tools / Frameworks Matt Shares
The Add-Subtract Rule: If you're going to bring a watch in, one has to leave. No exceptions, no growing past the cap.
Use Case Collecting: Build your early collection around gaps, then pivot to passion once every slot is filled.
Swatch as a Fit Test: Use a collab or homage to test case shape, diameter, and wrist feel before committing thousands to the real thing.
Ad Spend for Niche Content: Allocating $100–$200 per episode on YouTube promotion to reach genuine fans who wouldn't find you organically.
Key Timestamps
0:00 – Wrist check + Rook & Castle
7:48 - Designing the La Promencia / Adagio Marino & Carmine Nocturne
13:45 - What’s next for Rook & Castle and the hardest part
18:08 - Pushback, bias, and building as a black founder
22:03 – AD experiences, the Oris Hank Aaron, and buying from people who respect you
32:54 - Legacy and being first-generation watch enthusiasts
Three Stages of Collecting: Collectors typically move from big brands to niche exploration to curation.
Approachability as Brand Strategy: From the CEO answering every email to the ambassador showing up at local clubs with 40 watches, accessibility becomes the differentiator.
Key Timestamps
(0:00) – Intro and wrist check
(5:35) – Andre's background: growing up near the Rolex factory in Switzerland
(7:43) – From insurance and marketing to becoming the Maurice Lacroix Americas ambassador
(13:36) – The challenge of building brand awareness in the US market
(14:30) – The icon, the iconic, and the Royal Oak comparison
(20:45) – Swatch x AP release: what went right, what went wrong, and who benefits
(30:37) – The upcoming 250th anniversary US limited edition watch
(33:43) – Andre as a connector: watch societies, community building, and organic growth
(40:32) – Rio's experience wearing the Iconic Skeleton and growing the brand organically
(48:40) – André the collector: the Hublot tattoo
(54:05) – Overrated watches, overpriced steel, and threats to the Swiss industry
(59:38) – Advice for collectors: appreciate every price point and remember it's just a hobby
Approachability as Brand Strategy: From the CEO answering every email to the ambassador showing up at local clubs with 40 watches, accessibility becomes the differentiator.
Key Timestamps
(0:00) – Intro and wrist check
(5:35) – Andre's background: growing up near the Rolex factory in Switzerland
(7:43) – From insurance and marketing to becoming the Maurice Lacroix Americas ambassador
(13:36) – The challenge of building brand awareness in the US market
(14:30) – The icon, the iconic, and the Royal Oak comparison
(20:45) – Swatch x AP release: what went right, what went wrong, and who benefits
(30:37) – The upcoming 250th anniversary US limited edition watch
(33:43) – Andre as a connector: watch societies, community building, and organic growth
(40:32) – Rio's experience wearing the Iconic Skeleton and growing the brand organically
(48:40) – André the collector: the Hublot tattoo
(54:05) – Overrated watches, overpriced steel, and threats to the Swiss industry
(59:38) – Advice for collectors: appreciate every price point and remember it's just a hobby
Rolex's Conditioning Playbook: How Rolex withholds certain configurations from marketing to shape demand in waves, using the ombre green Datejust on oyster-only as an example.
The 1% Refinement Model: Why brands like Rolex and Porsche succeed by making small iterative improvements rather than dramatic overhauls, compounding quality over decades.
Key Timestamps
(0:00) – Intro and wrist check
(4:32) – Is Hublot hate justified? Dave defends the brand's innovation.
(10:08) – Dave's first Watches and Wonders: planning, logistics, and costs
(12:54) – Insider tip: product presentations and how to book them
(18:12) – Best exhibitions: Ulysses Nardin, Van Cleef, Tudor, AP
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