Explore every episode of the podcast An Englishman in Latvia

What makes a biscuit Latvian — the recipe, the place it is baked, or the memories people have of eating it? We explore this question through three short stories about biscuits and then a biscuit tasting with friends.

The biscuits we tasted:

1. Pilngraudu cepumi - wholemeal biscuits, by Lāči

2. Selga classic biscuits by Selga

3. Blackcurrant cookies by The Beginnings

4. Medus Mandeļu - honey and almonds, by Lāči

5. Riekstiņi - nuts, by Rimi

6. Vaniļas vafeles - vanilla wafers, by Selga

7. Auzu pārslu cepumi - oatflake biscuits by Flora

8. Piparkūkas - gingerbread, by Flora

9. Źagariņi - little birds, by Staburadze

10. Cepumi Mājas - homemade biscuits, by Siguldas Maiznieks

11. Salmiņi - straws, by Dtaugu.

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Liepāja, Latvia's third-largest city, is known as the city "where the wind is born" and an easy-going seaside resort that became one of the Baltic's most strategically important and culturally distinctive places. Why? Join me as we walk through six layers of the city: wind, water, wood and brick, iron and concrete, music and footsteps.

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A tiny bottle of perfume opens a story of Rīga industry, Soviet scarcity and changing ideas of femininity. This episode follows Dzintars from its nineteenth-century roots through its Soviet heyday, explores the cult fragrance Koķete, and asks what MÁDARA's rise reveals about Latvia’s modern cosmetics industry.

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There's a sound that, if you grew up in Soviet Latvia, you'd recognise instantly: a buzzy little two-stroke engine. That sound belonged to the Riga moped. We tell the history of this moped and how it gave millions across the Soviet Union affordable mobility; we hear Jana's experience riding one; and we visit a wonderful place where you can find a collection of Riga mopeds.

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The story of amber, the fossil that isn't quite a rock, isn't quite a jewel, yet has shaped trade routes, folklore, craft guilds, and Latvian identity for thousands of years. We'll explore how it was formed, how it travelled from these shores to the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs, how it ended up pinned to the shoulder of traditional Latvian costumes, and how to buy the real thing without getting stung.

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Rīga is 825 years old. Join me as we join the big party! We also tell the history of Rīga, not as a chronological listing, but through legends, stories and tales.

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There is an object in Latvian cuisine that has outlasted empires and is still in supermarket aisles today. It is small. It is round. And it is very, very sweet. It is a tin of condensed milk. Iebiezinātais piens is nostalgia in a can.

We will trace the history of this product, explore its use in Latvian cuisine and make one of Latvia's most celebrated cakes.

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Latvia's maritime history told through stories about its lighthouses. From Hanseatic merchants, through Courland's golden age, to the dark years when the Soviet Union turned the coastline into a military fortress and to today. Three lighthouses highlighted and a road trip!

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This is one of the most difficult and important episodes I have recorded: the deportation of over 57,000 Latvians by the Soviet Russian regime in 1941 and 1949. Regarded as genocide and a crime against humanity by the European Court of Human Rights. I tell the story of what happened and how it happened.

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The story of a small town in Latvia with a big name. It was renamed after a legendary Latvian ideologue who used to teach there, Krišjānis Valdemārs. It has an award-winning 500-year-old linden tree, a crumbling Baltic German manor house, and a lovely lake. Join me as we visit Valdemārpils.

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A 270-year-old balm that is regarded as the national drink of Latvia. Sold in dark clay bottles. Some people love it, some don't. We explore the story and legends surrounding Riga Black Balsam, and hold a tasting with friends.

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Ludza is the oldest town in Latvia - a country that has known occupation and catastrophe many times over. It is a town that was once more than half Jewish, whose synagogue survived a fire and a genocide yet is still standing. It is a town whose medieval castle tells a story of crusading ambition and ultimate ruin, and whose lakes still carry the legend of the bewitched princess waiting somewhere beneath the hill. Join me on a trip to Ludza.

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This is the story of a metro system for Rīga that was planned for decades, almost built in Soviet times, but was stopped by an environmental protest movement in 1988 that changed the course of an entire nation, leading to Latvia regaining its independence. The metro that never was. 

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From Victorian Brits plunging down icy chutes in St Moritz, and a Latvian family transforming a Soviet-era track into an Olympic medal factory, to a British gold medallist embracing his Latvian coach at the bottom of the Milan-Cortina Olympic run, skeleton tells a story of speed, risk, and unlikely bonds. This is that British-Latvian story.

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The history of the media in Latvia is a fascinating story. From the simple beginnings of a Latvian-language newspaper in 1822, to strict censorship during the Soviet Russian occupation, to the media's role in the independence movement. And now today, with a fragmented on and offline Latvian media scene and Russian media in exile. Join me as we explore this.

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This is the fascinating story of Jelgava, a city in Latvia that was once the capital of the Duchy of Courland for centuries, was destroyed during the Second World War, rebuilt as an industrial powerhouse under Soviet occupation, and is now transformed into a vibrant university city.

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If there is one vegetable I associate with Latvia, it is the gherkin. This is the story of what gherkins truly are, why Latvians pickle anything that remains still long enough, a landfill that has become a greenhouse for cucumbers, and where you can savour the finest gherkins in Rīga for yourself.

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This is the story of how Latvians stopped Soviet Russian special forces in January 1991 by building barricades from concrete blocks, trucks, and tractors to protect the institutions of its democracy in Rīga. It is a story of heroism by ordinary Latvians and journalists, with lessons for the world today.

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We explore the ancient symbols that have guided Latvia for a thousand years. These aren't just decorative motifs: they're a living alphabet of belief, carved into Late Stone Age bone tools, woven into the fabric of daily life, and now finding new voice in contemporary Latvian identity.

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The story of how Latvia, then the Duchy of Courland, had a colony in the Caribbean. The island of Tobago. We travel back to the 17th century and explore how Latvia (Courland) became the world's smallest nation to have a colony. We look for remnants of that empire in present-day Tobago and Latvia.

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A journey to Daugavpils, Latvia, to learn about the birthplace of the Abstract Expressionist artist Mark Rothko and to find out whether the city and his childhood in its then bustling but fearful Jewish streets influenced his art. Join me as we visit the Rothko Museum and explore Daugavpils.

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The 18th of November is celebrated in Latvia as Independence Day. I'll guide you through the four parts of this gripping story. First, the dramatic declaration of independence on 18 November 1918. Second, the war that ensued. Third, the Soviet Russian occupation of Latvia from 1940 until independence was regained in 1991. And finally, how Latvians celebrate Independence Day today, with my memories of participating in the commemoration as deputy British Ambassador in the late 1990s.

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This is the story of Mārtiņš Rītiņš - a story that takes us from a post-war refugee camp to cooking for queens and presidents, from the industrial towns of England to the heart of Rīga, and from a life lived partly in the shadows to one of remarkable openness and authenticity. It is the story of a British-born Latvian chef, restaurateur, culinary TV presenter and author. A great man who became known as "the father of modern Latvian cuisine".

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Rīga's pre-fabricated apartment blocks built during the Soviet occupation represent a significant urban planning project. The 13 microdistricts on the city outskirts were not merely housing solutions but comprehensive attempts to create new forms of socialist urban living. Join me as we delve into the history of these microdistricts, find out what it was like to live there during the Soviet era, and take a walk around present-day Imanta, where I live.

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Miķeļdiena is Latvia’s ancient harvest festival, full of folklore tales like the Jumis deity-catching ceremony and the spirit world of Veļu laiks, when ancestors walk among the living. In this episode, we explore traditions and how Miķeļdiena is celebrated in modern-day Latvia.

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This is the story of a town founded by the owners of a paper mill 200 years ago, who built a thriving community for their workers before profits. It is also about 333 caves dug by people, as well as a secret Soviet command centre bunker built underneath the town. And the most famous bear in Latvia. Welcome to Līgatne!

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The RAF Latvija was a Soviet-era minibus. Externally, it looks remarkably similar to the iconic Volkswagen Type 2 van. The story of its production offers us an insight into manufacturing during the Soviet era. The Latvija became a symbol of communal mobility, serving as a marshrutka - a minibus on a set route, or used as an unofficial taxi, and its drivers and passengers share many poignant experiences. Join me and jump aboard a Latvija minibus.

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Latvia is a country of beer brewing and drinking. It has a rich history of beer-related tales, dating back to medieval times, through the economic development of Latvia by German nobility, and then the dark times under Soviet occupation. Latvia now boasts a vibrant craft beer brewing scene, with over 300 different craft beers available in Rīga alone. Join me as we go on a beer tour of Latvia!

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Sigulda is a medieval town in Latvia that has been named the “Switzerland of Vidzeme”. It boasts a rich historical tapestry, blending medieval history, romantic legends, and natural beauty. Sigulda features a triangle of three castles, all strategically positioned to face each other. We tell the tragic medieval romance story of the Rose of Turaida. We also tell the tale of the Sphinx ghost who looks over the bobsleigh track.

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Latvia has a remarkably long coastline for its size. Therefore, seafaring, fishing and eating fish are important parts of Latvian life and culture. We step back in time and discover the history of Latvia’s fishing industry, with many good tales. We will also taste some typical Latvian fish, mostly smoked in the way Latvians love it, which the EU now wants to ban. I will suggest a fish driving tour along the Bay of Riga coast from Jūrmala up to Kolka and then down the Baltic Sea coast to Mazirbe, where fishing boats came to die. Join me as we get stuck into some tasty fish!

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One of Europe's most extraordinary baroque palaces is just 80 kilometres south of Rīga. Rundāle Palace, often referred to as the "Versailles of Latvia", represents more than architectural grandeur, as it embodies a fascinating story of political intrigue, artistic brilliance, and unwavering determination. The palace is deeply connected to one man: Ernst Johann von Biron. Join me as we explore the palace and the life of this remarkable man.

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What makes for a thrilling biography? Success in business, while simultaneously working as a British spy during the Russian Empire period in Latvia, and then during the Russian Revolution. Leading a triple life as a businessman, athlete and intelligence agent. Being named the father of Latvian football for introducing the sport to the country. And finally being tortured to death by the German Gestapo in Rīga during the Second World War. All this and more is the life of Harold Trevenen Hall. Let’s get to know his story

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Jūrmala is Latvia’s premier resort town. Originally a series of fishing villages by the sea just a short distance from Rīga, it transformed from a 19th-century Baltic spa destination to the Soviet Union’s most exclusive holiday retreat. It is still a wonderful place to relax. Join me as we explore Jūrmala's past and present.

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Sir Isaiah Berlin was one of the 20th century’s most influential British philosophers and political theorists. He was born in 1909 in Rīga, Latvia, and his childhood had a lasting influence on his life and academic work. We explore Sir Isaiah’s connections to Rīga with some interesting, relatively unknown stories. 

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Rīga has the highest concentration of art nouveau buildings in the world, with around 800 buildings constructed primarily between 1904-1914 during an economic boom under the British Mayor of Rīga, George Armitstead. They have survived two world wars and the Soviet occupation. Join me as we explore the history of these remarkable buildings and their master architects.

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Nestled in the heart of Latvia’s Gauja National Park, the small but historically significant town of Cēsis offers a wealth of fascinating stories spanning over eight centuries. With its medieval castle ruins, cobblestone streets, and rich cultural heritage, Cēsis blends history, architecture, legends, and living traditions.

Join me as we visit and explore Cēsis.

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Latvia has a rich tradition of chocolate making. A history spanning over 150 years. We will look at and taste the products of two very different chocolatiers - Laima, which was the leading chocolate maker in the Soviet Union and still is hugely popular, and Pūre, a newer entrepreneurial company from a small town in western Latvia that produces the most amazing truffles. Join me on a culinary journey.

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Two trips to two cities - Vilnius in Lithuania and Tartu in Estonia. In Vilnius, you'll discover a city where ancient history meets bohemian creativity, where mermaids cast spells from riverbanks, and where an entire neighbourhood declared itself an independent republic. Tartu is dominated by the oldest university in the Baltics and presents a uniquely preserved cultural landscape that has evolved from medieval origins to modern street art. Join me as we explore Vilnius and Tartu.

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Spring is almost here in Latvia. On the first Sunday of March, I went to the Old Town of Rīga to mark the Latvian celebration of Meteņi. This Spring awakening festival marks the transition from winter to spring, blending timeless traditions with community revelry. Meteņi has rich historical origins, and is still recognised today in contemporary celebrations with good food and drink. Join me as we welcome Spring! 

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The Baltic Way was the event that helped secure the three Baltic States’ independence from Russia 35 years ago. The idea was simple - a chain of people linking the three capital cities of Vilnius in Lithuania, Riga in Latvia and Tallinn in Estonia. It was a significant act of protest, striving for freedom against an oppressor. We will look at how it was planned and hear stories from participants. We will examine what effect it had.

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In a polarising world, this podcast episode will cover a sensitive and difficult topic: Russians in Latvia. Since February 2022, when Russia again attacked Ukraine, the question of the allegiance of Latvian-resident Russians has been a main political topic. Latvian laws have been tightened on residency, cross-border business and travel to and from Russia. You would need the rigour of a distinguished professor not to take sides. As someone who was a diplomat and then worked in human rights law, I will try to give a balanced perspective.

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The Latvian animation Flow is a ground-breaking independent film that has disrupted high-profile, big-budget international productions with its visual storytelling techniques about survival, trust and collaboration. It has already won a Golden Globe and is up for two BAFTAs and two Oscars. It is a source of pride to most Latvians. Let me tell you more about this uniquely Latvian film.

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Mežaparks is a suburb of Rīga, Latvia's capital. It is a beautiful area of villas, a forest park, and a zoo. The Englishman George Armitstead, while Mayor of Rīga, created it in 1901 as the first Garden City in the world. Join me as we explore this delightful neighbourhood of Rīga and learn of its fascinating history. Walk with me through the park, as people have done for over 100 years. Join me on a visit to the zoo. Let’s also dig deep into what the great man George Armitstead accomplished with his vision for a garden city.

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Sir Stephen Tallents was a distinguished British civil servant and a trailblazer in public relations. I focus on his work in Latvia between 1919 - 1920.   Due to his skill and determination, he assisted Latvia and the other newly independent Baltic States to achieve peace and prosperity for 20 years. His story is fascinating. 
Join me as we learn more about the man and how he operated, like how he created the Tallents Line border between Latvia and Estonia. We will even visit the town that Tallents divided, Valka/Valga.

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Latvia has a rich music scene, from classical music to the internationally acclaimed Song and Dance Festival, ancient folklore dainas, and a thriving popular music culture. In 2000, Latvia even came third in the Eurovision Song Contest! Not bad for a country of 1.8 million people.

In this episode, we will explore the folklore, classical and popular music of Latvia. I will tell a few stories from the 1990s and the present day. Join me on a musical journey!

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For a visitor to Latvia, there is a massive choice of public transport. From trains, buses, smaller mini-buses, trolleybuses, trams, and coaches. There are also a few taxis. A few of these forms of public transport are brand-new. Many give you a feel for life during the Soviet occupation. There was even a song written about my favourite tram line! Let’s take a deep dive into public transport in Latvia. With a story or two to bring the topic to life.

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Latvia is a nation that loves sport. it has achieved outstanding sporting success. We will examine that success. We will look at the most popular sports in Latvia, some Latvian sporting heroes, and share some of the proud glory from 2023’s success in ice hockey and basketball. Above all, I wanted to discover why this small country was so good at certain sports. 

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The Suiti are a 400-year-old ethnic Latvian group. They are Catholic people in the centre of the Kurzeme region in western Latvia, surrounded by Lutherans.  They preserved their culture over the years by never marrying someone from a different ethnic group or religion. This has resulted in the Suiti developing distinct traditions. The Suiti are creative people with fantastic fabric designs. Their culture has been recognised internationally by UNESCO.
We explore Alsunga and find out more about the Suiti: their traditions, culture, textiles and costumes, and drone singing and bagpipes.

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Anatole ‘Tony’ Lapine lived a dream to be a great car designer. He was chief designer at Porsche for nearly 20 years, one of only four chief designers at the car maker since it was founded exactly 75 years ago. He had a hand in shaping some of the most impressive and iconic sports cars ever. Despite being a refugee from war-torn Latvia, his story is a remarkable one of ambition backed up by hard work, a bit of luck and a sense of humour.

Let’s explore his story, look at the cars he designed for Porsche and marvel at the pink Porsche racing car with its body painted like a butcher’s drawing of the parts of a pig, which was recently displayed at Riga Motor Museum in an exhibition in his honour. Anatole ‘Tony’ Lapine, the Latvian who made pigs fly.

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On a bright weekend at the end of September, I went to Kuldīga. The town was buzzing with people, strolling the cobbled streets, sitting at cafes, walking down to the waterfall. The small electric tourist buses were full. Why? Kuldīga had been added to the UNESCO World Heritage list a few weeks beforehand. In tourism terms, that is a huge thing.
We will look at Kuldīga's journey to gain this designation. We will explore what you can see and do in Kuldīga. Come with me to Kuldīga, the small, unspoilt and beautifully preserved town in the west of Latvia.

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