All Things Iceland – Details, episodes & analysis

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

A Tale of How a Canyon is named after a Giantess

Kolugljúfur Canyon gets its name from the legendary giantess Kola, who made her home on a ledge within the gorge. According to local folklore, Kola was quite resourceful, often catching salmon straight from the river with her bare hands for breakfast.

On occasion, she would cook her catch in the Koluketill Kettle, a nearby natural hot spring, to enjoy a warm meal later in the day. Kola’s connection to this place was deeply practical—she appreciated the abundant salmon and the convenient hot spring rather than the scenic beauty that draws visitors today.

Random Fact of the Episode

Kolugljúfur Canyon, located in the north of Iceland, is a hidden gem that showcases the raw beauty of Icelandic nature. This stunning canyon, approximately one kilometer long and up to 50 meters deep, was carved out by the Víðidalsá River over millennia. It is home to the spectacular Kolufossar Waterfalls, a series of cascades that tumble through the gorge, creating a breathtaking natural spectacle.

Despite its beauty, Kolugljúfur remains off the beaten path, offering visitors a peaceful and uncrowded experience. Two main hiking trails allow for exploration of the canyon’s depths or a more leisurely stroll along the rim, providing stunning views at every turn. The area is also rich in birdlife and other fauna, adding to its appeal as a destination for nature enthusiasts.

Drive Yourself Around Iceland & Save

I want to give a shout-out to our amazing sponsors, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.

I actually use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.

They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.

With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.

With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.

You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
for the discounts.

Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.

For Go Car:
When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.

For Go Campers:
Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.

And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Kolugljúfur is broken down into two words. Kola is the name of the giantess and means coal. While gljúfur means canyon.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

An Icelandic Saga that Mentions the Lyngbakur

The Saga of Örvar-Oddur from the 13th or 14th century mentions the Lyngbakur. In part of the saga, Oddur is seeing vengeance against Ögmundur Flóki (sometimes referred to as Ögmundur Eyþjófsbani or “Eythjof’s-killer”) for the murder of his blood-brother Þórður.

To make it safely to Ögmundr Flóki’s location, Oddur was guided by his half-giant son, Vignir. Oddur and his crew set sail towards a fjord in Helluland where Ögmundur was rumored to be hiding. Along the way, they encountered two enormous sea creatures that were so large they appeared as islands.

Two Sea Monsters that Look Like Islands

In the saga, Vignir said, “These were two sea monsters, one called Hafgúfa and the other Lyngbakur. Hafgúfa is the largest creature in the entire ocean. It devours men, ships, whales, and anything else nearby. It stays submerged for days before surfacing, and when it does, it remains on the surface for at least one tide.”

Five men had mistakenly disembarked on what they believed was an island, only to be dragged into the sea when Lyngbakur dove beneath the waves, leading to their deaths. Despite this, the group managed to navigate through the jaws of Hafgúfa, the other monster that Ögmundur had magically summoned to stop them.

Lean More About Sea Monsters Spotted in Iceland

The book “Meeting with the Monsters” is a wonderful resource if you want to learn more about sea monsters in Iceland.

Random Fact of the Episode

The lyngbakur is said to eat every three years when it swallows everything in its path, including birds, fish and any other life in the sea.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Lyngbakur – Heather back

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

The last 8 years have been a whirlwind for me but I have loved the journey. This is a relatively short episode but I thought it would be nice to give some insight into my life since I moved in 2016.

I am so proud of how much the podcast has grown and I share a bit of that in the episode! Thank you to everyone that has been listening, sharing, and providing feedback on the podcast and my videos on social media, like YouTube, TikTok, Instagram, and Facebook. I have so much fun content to share in the near future.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Iceland is considered the safest and most peaceful country in the world according to the Global Peace Index published by the Institute for Economics and Peace. However, this doesn’t mean that there aren’t things that visitors to the country need to keep in mind when traveling around the country. Unfortunately, there are mistakes made by tourists each year that range from almost causing accidents to ones that end in fatalities.

This episode is in no way meant to scare anyone who plans to rent a car here regardless of the season. In fact, I highly recommend renting a car. It’s an amazing way to see the country at your own pace and to potentially discover places that you might have missed if you were on a bus tour.

I have partnered with Go Car Rental Iceland on this episode. We both value informing people about these mistakes so they can not only manage their expectations but also know what to look out for when on the road.

If you’re planning a trip to Iceland, you can use my code Iceland10 when booking with Go Car Rental Iceland. You’ll  save 10% on your entire booking. They are a local Icelandic rental car company based in Reykjavík that have excellent customer service, great rates, unlimited miles on their cars, and a large variety of vehicles to choose from.

The Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland

Everything I need to know about renting car, driving, and get around Iceland

Click Here

7 Dangerous Mistakes Tourists Make While Driving in Iceland 1. Stopping in the middle of the road to take photos

One of the most dangerous mistakes that many tourists make during the summer in Iceland is stopping in the middle of the road to take photos. I know it sounds ridiculous to some people, but it happens a lot here.

It’s often the case that people are not meaning to block the road but they get so stunned by the views that they legit stop their car to have a look. It can be that they’re staring at horses, mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, reindeer or even an arctic fox.

Instead of immediately looking for a safe place to pull over, they just sit in the middle of a highway. Even worse they often get out of the car with their car still on the road. This has resulted in some accidents and far too many close calls. I totally understand seeing an amazing sight and wanting to stop to see it.

I also understand that when you stop, it could be that no one is behind you at the time. However, if you are on a highway the possibility that another car or truck will come soon is highly likely. Please do yourself and everyone else a favor and find a safe place to pull over. You might even have to drive a little bit down the road to find an appropriate spot but it’s worth it.

2. Driving Off-road Image by Iceland Magazine

Next up is driving off-road. This is not the same as pulling over to the side of the road or driving on a gravel road or driving on an F-road in the highlands. I am specifically talking about driving on land where there are no roads. Some places where tourists have done this is on black sand deserts and fields of lava rock covered in moss.

There are two reasons doing this is dangerous. The first is that the flora in Iceland is fragile. Yes, it grows in an extreme climate but it takes a very long time for things to grow naturally here. There are ecosystems flourishing in these environments that most people are not aware of and driving on them can cause serious damage. In fact, moss in Iceland takes decades to grow back after it has been trampled or driven on.

The second reason is that you might drive over a hidden rock or hole that causes you to have an accident. This could result in you or others in the car being seriously injured.

On top of that, if a person is caught driving off road the fine can be more than $1,000! Honestly, it is just not worth it.

3. Speeding

Due to the speed limits being quite low in Iceland, max 90 kmph or about 56 miles per hour, it’s easy to find yourself going much faster on the flat roads out in the countryside. However, there are conditions here that make going too fast quite dangerous. One of them is speeding when the roads are icy. During winter, it’s common to drive on icy roads, especially the more north you go. I’ve encountered some roads in the north during December and January that were just a thick layer of ice.

I had on winter tires, which helped a lot with traction, but my knuckles were probably turning white from how tight I was holding the steering wheel. In that instance, I always refer to my mom’s advice, which is never drive your car faster than you can handle it. Yes, the speed max might be 90 but maybe you need to go 60 or 70 in those conditions because you feel more comfortable handling the car at those speeds.

I’ve found that some people feel pressure to drive the speed max, especially if someone is behind them. My advice is just let the person go ahead of you and continue at the pace you feel comfortable. Getting to your destination safely is the main goal.

4. Driving During a Storm Image by RUV English

Next is driving during a storm. In late September/early October, we had one of the worst storms in recent history hit the north and east of Iceland. People were without power, buildings were destroyed, and vehicles were severely damaged.

The weather alert was yellow in many places and red in others. Some travelers still decided to travel on the roads, and they had a terrifying experience.

Windows of vehicles were broken in because the wind had picked up sand and rocks and thrust it at the cars. I even saw that some doors had been ripped off.

Luckily, there were no fatalities but psychological damage was intense. I don’t think it can be said enough that people need to heed the weather warnings here. I sometimes joke that the only natural predator here in the weather because it has caused a lot of accidents over the years.

5. Not opening the door carefully when getting out of the car and it is windy

Piggybacking off the last dangerous mistake, is not opening the door carefully when getting out of the car when it’s windy. Again, the wind is the main antagonist in this story. The main dangers here are causing severe damage to the car or to a person.

Most rental car companies warn you to hold on tightly to the doors when opening them but I don’t think they always mention these two other things. One is that if it’s very windy, you want to only open one door at a time because the wind can whip through the car causing a sort of wind tunnel that could not only rip the doors off but also make it hard to close the doors even if you have been holding on tight enough.

 The other is that, when possible, try to park the car against the wind. Yes, it can make it harder to open the car door but at least it you are fighting to keep the door from being pulled away from you. When family has been visiting, I’ve literally had to get out of the car to help them open their door because the wind was pushing up against it. That is an extreme example, but such is life here.

6. Driving While Exhausted

#6 might feel like common sense to most but one of the tricky things about Iceland is that the driving times to the most popular sites is a lot farther than most people expect. For instance, it takes about 5-hours one way to drive to Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. I’ve driven to there and back to Reykjavik in a day and it was exhausting. Plus, there are other possible stops along the way that make the journey much longer.

When I advise people who are planning a trip to Iceland, I often suggest staying overnight in Vík or somewhere closeby because driving while exhausted is similarly dangrous as driving under the influence. If do feel yourself getting too tired to drive, please find a parking lot to stop in and take a nap. Because of 24-hour bright days in the summer, I find that people often push themselves to the limit physically, which ends up being dangerous for themselves and others on the road.

7. Not Knowing the Rules of two-lane roundabouts in Iceland

The last dangerous mistake for this episode is not knowing the rules of two-lane roundabouts in Iceland. In other parts of Europe, the outer lane has the right of way. In Iceland, it’s the exact opposite, which is confusing for many other Europeans and for those outside of Europe who know the same rule. If you haven’t driving in a roundabout before, the concept might feel daunting.

Thankfully, there are not a lot of roundabouts for you to worry about here but knowing that the inner lane has the right of way, meaning cars in the outer lane have to yield to the cars in the inner lane if they want to exit, is the rule here can save you from making a mistake that results in an accident.

Go Car Rental Iceland

Thanks again to Go Car Rental Iceland for partnering with me on this episode.

Shout out to a HNelsn for this review of the podcast

A wonderful down to earth podcast for potential and current travelers to Iceland!
I went to Iceland 7 years ago and wish I’d had this podcast then. Jewells is so relatable and does a wonderful job of painting a picture. She also does her research! We are planning another trip to other parts of the country and her episode on Akuryri got me even more excited for our journey.
Can’t wait to keep listening before and during our journey. Thank you, Jewells!

Hnelsn

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Random fact of the episode

It’s not unusual to experience wintery conditions outside of the normal winter months in Iceland. During May of last year, I did a two week trip around the country and encountered icy roads, snow, rain, lots of wind, dry days, and so on. It was a mix of all the seasons, so just keep that in mind.

Icelandic word of the episode

að keyra – to drive

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The words “love“ and “hate“ are very strong words. To be fair, I don‘t actually love or hate any part of learning the Icelandic language but those words work much better in a title than what I “enjoy the most“ and what I “strongly dislike“. So, just take those words with a big grain salt.

Regarding some backstory, I have been learning Icelandic off and on since I moved in 2016. It certainly has not been a linear journey, and I‘ve had many ups and downs but progress is happening.

5 Things I Love About Learning Icelandic

1. Having a secret language you can speak around the world. Most people don’t know the language and being able to speak the language around others without them know what you are saying is pretty cool.
2. There are unusual sounds, such as thedouble ll sound and I enjoy trying to mimic these sounds
3. You have the tools to be able to read Old Icelandic. The language has evolved slowly enough that the current language gives you the ability to read Old Icelandic text, like reading something from the 12th century
4. Interesting insight into the culture. For instance, there are a lot of words for snow  like hundslappadrífa (snow flakes that are big like dog paws), Snædís (snow fairy or snow goddess), and so on.
5. When I do speak Icelandic to someone who knows the language well or grew up speaking it, they are delighted to hear that I am learning. The language learning journey has been difficult for me at time, so any and all encouragement is greatly appreciated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlAApXyLIJQ

5 Things I Hate About Learning Icelandic

1. Icelandic Grammar can be complicated because there are four cases
   • Nouns, adjectives and pronouns are declined in these cases. There are also several genders and that makes a big difference too. Numbers from 1-4 are also a pain in the butt sometimes
   • Remembering how to decline properly can really trip you up
   • I used to only make simple sentences for a while because I was so worried about making a mistake with the grammar
   • Use the example of a horse
     1. A Horse – hestur (nominative)
     2. About a Horse – um hest (accusative)
     3. From a horse – frá hesti (dative)
     4. To a horse – til hests (genitive)

1. There are a decent amount of exceptions in the language that can be a little frustrating too. This happens with nouns and verbs. Sometimes there is a not a clear answer as to why that is the case. Sometimes if I ask for an explanation about something, my teacher will just say af því bara ( just because).
2. I sometimes sound hesitant when I speak because I am not sure if I said it correctly.
   1. An example is if I want to say ég fór til Reykjavíkur, my inflection might sound like there is a question mark at the end because I am not sure if what I wanted to say is correct.
3. Homynoyms in Icelandic can be confusing, at times.
   1. Bóndinn á Á á á á á
   2. The farmer at a farm called Á has an Ewe by a river
   3. Homonyms can make it tricky
4. Icelanders like to practice their English and can easily switch over to speaking English or they want to feel like they are helping you when they hear that you do not speak the language well
   1. It can also be that  they think the person sucks at the language (LOL)
   2. To combat this, I try to let people know I am practicing Icelandic so they don’t immediately switch to English

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkYrJpUFp9k

Random Fact of the Episode

Eiríkur Rögnvaldsson, professor emeritus of Icelandic linguistics, wrote in an article that he would like unions to push for employers to bear the cost of teaching foreign employees Icelandic.

Icelanders need to get used to others learning the subject

We are used to being a monolingual nation. It’s been a while since there were very few foreigners here. In the past, there were merchants and officials who spoke strange Icelandic, and people made fun of it,”

Eiríkur Rögnvaldsson

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Icelanders are not used to people learning Icelandic and not speaking it perfectly.

“What I was saying is that we just have to get used to it, because it’s quite clear that the number of foreigners will continue to increase here. There is nothing to suggest otherwise. It has been demonstrated that people are needed for work in the coming years.”

Eiríkur Rögnvaldsson

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Icelandic Word(s) of the Episode

Hata (hate) – ég hata þig

Elska (love) – ég elska þig

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega (Thank you kindly for listening and see you soon).

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The Northern Lights season in Iceland is almost upon us! I’ve packed this episode with loads of information to help you have the highest possible chance of seeing this spectacular natural phenomenon. While it is possible to take a tour to see them, I am a big fan of seeing them on my own. I’ll be sharing some awesome places that you can drive to in the country to view them.

I decided to also share some background information about the northern lights, including why they appear, the best time of the year to see them, factors that impact you seeing the lights, how to know if the aurora borealis will appear, the best time of day to see them, and my recommendation when it comes to clothing, as well as tips on how to capture the Northern Lights with your phone or camera.

Rent a Car in Iceland for your Northern Lights Hunting Adventure

Before I jump in, I want to thank Go Car Rental Iceland for sponsoring this episode. They are a great local car rental company based in Reykjavík. As I mentioned earlier, I like to go on adventures at my own pace and having a car allows me and others to do that.

Go Car Rental Iceland already has competitive rates but what‘s awesome is that renting a car during winter is way less money than in summer. On top of that, you can save 10% off your entire booking with them when you use my code Iceland10.

Why do the Northern Lights Appear?

When charged particles from the sun collide with atoms in the earth’s atmosphere, the electrons inside of atoms move to a higher energy state. When the electrons come down to a lower energy state, they release photons, which is light. That light is what we see as the Aurora borealis or Northern Lights.

The strength of the Northern lights, or how strong the light show up, will depend on the solar activity and the speed at which these particles are coming toward the earth. This is one major factor as to why you may or may not see the Northern Lights during your trip.

The color of the Northern Lights depends on the ionization of gases in the earth’s atmosphere when the charged particle (electrons) collides with them. The altitude at which the particles collide is a major factor as well.

Because different gases are present at different altitudes and in varying concentrations, you might see only one color or many if the Northern Lights appear. Green is the most common color. You might also see blue, purple-ish, yellow, pink and even red.

Red is normally associated with intense solar activity, which is rare, so you’ll be quite fortunate if you experience that.

Best Time of Year to See the Northern Lights in Iceland

Undoubtly, the best time of the year to see the Northern Lights in Iceland is during the winter. Northern Lights season officially kicks off in October and runs through March. During this time, we have long, dark nights and that provides ample opportunity to potentially see the lights. Please know that there is no guarantee you will see them, even during winter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeWycMNVm3M

Why You Can’t See the Northern Lights in Summer

The reason you can’t see the Northern Lights in Iceland during summer (June, July and most of August) is because there is too much brightness. We experience 24-hour bright nights during the height of summer, and this makes it impossible to see Northern Lights in the sky.

It isn’t that solar activity is necessarily any less or more during this time. One thing to note is that I have seen the Northern Lights in late August and September. However, because the days are still relatively long at that time, I normally just suggest visiting from October to March.

Factors that Impact You Seeing the Northern Lights in Winter

The factors that can impact you seeing the Northern Lights during the winter in Iceland are the weather, clouds, light pollution, and solar activity. Ideally, there are none or few clouds in the sky during the evening, relatively good weather, no or little light pollution, and decent solar activity.

For those wondering what light pollution is, it is basically any light source that would make seeing the northern lights harder to view. For instance, city lights are a big source of light pollution, so getting away from the city to spots to view the lights is advised.

If there is a full moon, that can also make the lights appear fainter. With that said, I have seen the Northern Lights a decent number of times while strolling the streets of downtown Reykjavik.

How to Know if the Northern Lights Will Show Up

Knowing when the Northern Lights will show up or how strong the lights will be is crucial. Thankfully, getting access to that information is simple. The Icelandic Meteorological Office has a webpage dedicated to showing the forecast.

They have a number system from 0 to 9. Zero is no activity visible and 9 is insanely intense. I’ve yet to encounter a 9 but I hope that I do one day. They also have a map that shows the cloud coverage in different parts of the country. Here is the link to see what the northern lights forecast is for the night you are looking to hunt for them.

I also recommend joining the Northern Lights Alert FB Group because people are often posting when they see them and what part of the country they are in.

Best Time of Day to See Them

Even though the nights are long in Iceland, it seems the typical time to see them is late in the evening, such as between 10:00 – 3:00 AM. This is not exact and they can definitely show up earlier or later but that is what I’ve found to be the case over the years.

It’s a good idea to periodically check out the window if the forecast is moderate to very active. Even better is to drive out to a nice, dark spot and chill out until you see them.

Great Locations in Iceland to See the Northern Lights

To be fair, I think most places in the countryside are great when it comes to seeing the Northern Lights. However, if you want to photograph some or just be in a picturesque place away from light pollution, here are some places where you can enjoy the show.

In the Reykjavik Area:

• Grótta lighthouse on Seltjarnarnes Peninsula
• Heiðmörk
• Laugardalur park

Around the country:

• Þingvellir National Park
• Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach
• Akureyri
• Ásbyrgi
• Vestrahorn
• Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
• Kirkjufell mountain on Snæfellsnes Peninsula
• Seljalandsfoss waterfall

How to Capture the Northern Lights

Here are some helpful tips if you plan to capture the Northern lights:

1. Using a tripod means that you can keep your camera or phone as still as possible
2. A remote allows you to start capturing the photo or timelapse without touching the device
3. Find a location that frames the Northern Lights in a fascinating way, such as a place with mountains or interesting scenery. The places I listed above are great examples.
4. A head lamp for seeing what you are doing in the dark and shining light on subjects you might be capturing along with the aurora borealis.

In the past, I have used the Night Cap app to capture a timelapse video and I will continue to do that. However, the newer versions of the iPhone and other phones make capturing the lights so easy.

Best Clothing to Wear While Hunting the Northern Lights

Clothing wise, it is best to have your winter clothing. Parkas and warm outer layers with water resistance will come in handy. Layers, such as a warm sweater like an Icelandic lopapeysa is great, and a base layer such a long johns will go a long way in helping to keep you from freezing.

Of course, hats, gloves, thick socks, maybe even hand warmers, are great. My Ultimate Packing Checklist for Iceland, which is linked in the show notes, has a winter packing checklist, so feel free to download that.

You might also want to have something warm to drink, some snacks, and a lot of patience. You might see them right away or it they can take a while to appear if they do at all. Sometimes they put on a show for a long time but don’t be surprised if they show up, disappear, and then show up again.

Key Things to Keep in Mind When Looking for the Northern Lights in Iceland

• Look at the aurora forecast before heading out
• Stay away from light pollution
• Have warm clothing and layers because it can get quite cold
• You can use this app for capturing time lapses of the northern lights on your phone, and here are instructions for capture photos of the lights with a camera

Before I jump into the random fact of the episode, I again want to thank Go Car Rental Iceland for sponsoring. Make sure to use my code Iceland10 when booking so you can save 10%  on your booking.

Random Fact of the episode

The first time I saw the northern lights was so magical. They were faint but I was still awe-struck! I always get excited when I see them and will often peek out the window on a night when the forecast is decent to see if they are out. What’s fascinating is that there is folklore in Iceland and other parts of the world about the Northern Lights and I plan to share more about that in a future episode.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Norðurljós – Northern Lights

I hope this episode has been helpful and happy Northern Lights hunting!

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

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It seems that the eruption that started in early August in Meradalir valley on the Reykjanes Peninsula is already over! After about a month of volcanic activity and people flocking to the site to see an amazing display of molten hot lava spew from the earth, the show has coming to s screeching halt. It’s been a few weeks since there has been any detectable activity

Meradalir Volcanic Eruption in Iceland was Short-Lived

The eruption last year, which is pretty much right next to this one, lasted about six months. I know many people were hoping the eruption would last at least until the fall. The eruptions the last two years are considered “tourist eruptions” because they didn’t pose any threats to any towns and people could safely access them. Thousands of people visited the last two eruptions.

I thoroughly enjoyed hearing and seeing people’s first reactions when they saw the lava spewing from the earth for the first time in lives. I remember the awe I felt the first time and I stopped in my tracks when I saw this one. If you can safely see an eruption in your lifetime, I highly recommend it.

Meradalir Volcano Danger Alert Cancelled

The Chief of State Police and the Chief of Suðurnes Police have decided to remove the danger alert connected to the Meradalir volcanic eruption due to no recorded unrest in the area.

Visiting the Meradalir Volcano Site Since the Eruption Stopped

Even though the eruption has stopped, authorities decided to finish paving the trail because the terrain was very rocky and long. While it is still long (about 14 km or 9 miles round trip), at least it so much easier to walk because it was a challenging terrain for many people.

If you decide to still visit the eruption site to see the new earth that has formed, please DO NOT step on the new hardened lava. Authorities say that it’s still warm and that molten hot lava could still be underneath what looks like solid lava. It’s not

Random Fact of the Episode

People have been walking on the lava! It was shown on the news several times because people were shocked to see.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Hraun – lava

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og lesa. Sjáumst fljótlega!

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I’m focusing on F-roads in this episode because they provide access to parts of the country that most visitors to Iceland never see. While that might sound appealing to most people listening, driving on these roads are often challenging and can even be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. 

I hit on this topic a little bit in my Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland episode. I recommend checking that episode out so you can be as prepared as possible when you go to book. 

F-Road Table of Contents

1. What are F-Roads?
2. Is it worth it to drive on F-Roads in Iceland?
3. When Can You Access F-Roads in Iceland?
4. What cars are allowed to drive on F-Roads?
5. Not All 4WD Cars are Created Equal
6. What Type of 4×4 is Right for Your Adventure in the Highlands?
7. Where to Rent a 4WD Car in Iceland
8. What to Check Before Heading Out on F-Roads
9. What to Keep in Mind While Driving on an F-road
10. How to Cross a River in Iceland
11. My Favorite Places to Visit in the Icelandic Highlands

What are F-Roads?

To start out, let’s talk about what F-roads are. The “F” stands for Fjallvegur in Icelandic, which translates to mountain road. The roads literally start with an F and are followed by a number. An example is F-910. These roads are not paved, are uneven, often have lots of potholes, and rocks (big and small). I’ve been on some F roads where it was not that challenging to drive on but later  I encountered very large rocks and an uneven surface, so it required me to go much slower and maneuver carefully.

Many of these roads have rivers that you need to cross to get to your destination. I will share some tips on how to cross rivers safely in a little bit.

Is it Worth It to Drive on F-Roads in Iceland?

In my mind, it is so worth it, even if it is just a day trip into the Icelandic highlands. The raw beauty, varied landscape and lack of people make it so much fun to travel here. Of course, precaution and some planning is needed but such is life in Iceland.

When Can You Access F-Roads in Iceland?

F-roads provide access to different parts of the Icelandic highlands, a large area of Iceland that is uninhabitable and where you can find raw, untouched nature. However, the roads are only open during the warmer months. When they open and close depends on the weather and if the road is passable due to snow, ice and/or storms.

The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration determines each year when it is safe to open the roads. It is normally expected that the roads will open by late June. However, if we’ve had a particularly cold winter, it could be later.

Therefore, most people who want to travel into the highlands are advised to come in July or August. While it’s not a guarantee that the roads will be open at the beginning of July, it is a much more likely than earlier.

Here is a link to a page on road.is that shows the earliest, latest, and median for opening dates for F roads in the country.

While it all depends on weather, the closing of F-roads can be in September or mid-October.

What Cars are Allowed to Drive on F-Roads?

4WD vehicles are the only things you should drive on an F-road for two reasons. The first is that 4WD are the only cars that are insured for this type of road.

If something were to happen to you in a 2WD on an F-road, you are responsible for the full cost of repairing or replacing the vehicle. The other reason is that the conditions of the road, including steep inclines, and crossing rivers require a car with 4WD.

Not All 4WD Cars Are Created Equal

Not all 4WD vehicles are created equal. First off, if you plan to cross rivers you need to a car with enough clearance underneath the car because we don’t flood the engine. Also, some 4WD cars have been modified for crossing very deep rivers like þjórsá, which you cross to get to Þórsmörk.

Some modifications you will see on 4WD are snorkels for the engine, huge tires, and sometimes even tires that can be inflated and deflated. Deflated tires allows for car to drive more smoothly over really rough surfaces.

Typically, you will find unmodified 4WD cars for rent in Iceland because modifying one is quite expensive and not necessary for everyone that wants to explore the highlands.

What’s key is finding out the amount of rivers you need to cross, if any, to get to your destination, the conditions of the rivers (sometimes they can be higher or lower due to glacial melt), and if a similar vehicle like yours can do it safely.

Your rental car company should be able to help you with any questions about that. Also, a google search of where you want to go can be great too because there are a decent number of blogs

Where to Rent a 4WD Car in Iceland

I have partnered with Go Car Rental Iceland for this episode. I wanted to partner with a local Icelandic car rental company for three reasons.

One is I like to support local businesses whenever possible. The second is that I often get asked who I recommend as a rental company here. Because I have personally used them and continue to use them when I need a car for adventures, I feel comfortable recommending them. Lastly, they have competitive rates, many cars to choose from, and great customer service. 

If you plan to rent a car in Iceland, you can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% on your entire rental car cost. 

What Type of 4×4 is Right for Your Adventure in the Highlands? Small Sized 4×4

Subaru XV 4×4 automatic is a good small 4×4 is you plan to cross small or not very deep rivers or none.

Hveradalir is an example of a place that is great to use this type of car.

Medium Sized 4×4

Dacia Dustur is great for crossing a lot of rivers but not the deepest ones.

F910 to Askja, the F225 West Of Landmannalaugar are examples of places you can use a Dacia Duster to get to.

Large Sized 4×4

Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

F249 to Þórsmörk is a place you can get to with a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

What to Check Before Heading Out on F-Roads

• Fuel levels. You need a full tank because there are not gas stations in the highlands
• That you have food, water, spare tire, and the tools to fix the tire, if needed
• Road.is to see if the roads are open
• Vedur.is for the weather forecast
• Safetravel.is and make a travel plan

What to keep in mind while driving on an F-road

The road can often be narrow for people driving in opposite directions, so you or another driver might need to pull over to let the other pass.

It’s best not to drive too fast when passing another car because you can potentially kick up a rock and damage the other car.

Sometimes there are blind hills, blind curves and sheep who decide to cross without warning. Be mindful of them and slow down to avoid a collision.

The conditions of the road can change drastically as you drive along. You can go from a relatively easy to drive on road to being on fine black sand, to navigate around big holes and rocks to cross a river and even feeling like you’re bouncing around because the road is so rough. It’s an adventurous ride for sure.

How to Cross a River in Iceland?

• Stop to evaluate the river before trying to cross
• Look for tire marks that have entered and exited the river
• Sometimes even letting others cross first if you are not sure how high the river is
• If you don’t have a snorkel on the car, the water should not cover the top of the tires. I like to play it safe and not let the water to come above ¾ of the tires
• A general rule is that if the river is too dangerous to wade in (walk in), it’s too dangerous to drive in. Dangerous meaning the water is rushing by too quickly
• Put the vehicle in the 4×4 mode
• I’ve been in situations where it was unclear how high the water is, so one of the passengers in the car go out of the car, took off their shoes and pants, and walked across the river so we could see how deep it was. While this is an option, it is certainly not needed in most situations
• Don’t change gear and don’t stop
• Keep going but don’t rush through. Driving too fast can push the water up too high and potentially into the engine. A slow and steady pace

Some of my Favorite Places to Visit in the Icelandic Highlands

• Mælifell
  • If coming from Reykjavík, take the F261 to F210.
• Hveradalir/Kerlingarfjöll
  • Take F-35 and F-347
• Landmannalaugar
  • F225 West Of Landmannalaugar for not a big river crossing
• Stakkhóltsgjá
  • Road F249
• Þórsmörk
  • F249 to Þórsmörk

Random Fact of the Episode

Highland summer only lasts a month and a half. While I have been fortunate to be in the highlands during mid-September, I was surprised at how fast the weather changed that day. It was blue skies and sunny for most of the day, but then it just started to snow.

Luckily, it didn’t last long, and I was able to enjoy the brief snow shower while soaking in a natural hot pool, but it was just a reminder that winter comes early in this part of the country.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

jeppa

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Like the south of the country, north Iceland has plenty of amazing natural sites to visit. All of the places I’m sharing are free of charge and will provide hours, if not days, of fun activities. If you’re not familiar with north Iceland, there is a route up there called the Diamond Circle.

If you think that sounds familiar, then you might be thinking of the Golden Circle, which is in the south. The Golden Circle came first and I have a theory about why the north has called this route the Diamond Circle but I’ll share that in the random fact of the episode.

Personally, I love going north. There is a lot of gorgeous nature and one of my favorite places in the country is there. Don’t worry, I will be sharing about what that place is in this episode. If you are planning to visit north Iceland, I recommend staying over at least one night.

I was on a road trip from Reykjavík, and I stayed over two nights but that is because I arrived late in the evening the first day. You can stay as long or short as you like, but just know that there is so much to see in the north and this list is just the tip of the iceberg.

Go Car Rental Iceland – My Preferred Rental Car Company in Iceland

Before I get into the stunning places in North Iceland that are worth visiting, I would like to thank the sponsor of this episode.

I partnered with Go Car Rental Iceland to make this road trip to the north possible. Go Car Rental Iceland is an awesome local car rental company that has transparent pricing, great rates, unlimited mileage on their rentals, and friendly staff. They are my go-to company when I need a car for my adventures, which are many.

I was delighted when one of my listeners of the podcast reached out to me via email after listening to the Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland to say that she had saved $400 by switching her rental from a company that is a big brand name around the world but has a franchise in Iceland, to Go Car Rental Iceland. The most amazing part is that she was able to get more features, like an additional, and extra insurance while still saving!

I highly recommend booking with them. You can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% on your entire rental cost, which is a good deal of savings.

Must-See Places in North Iceland’s Diamond Circle 1. Akureyri

Akureyri is the known as the capital of the north. This stop is about a 4 and a half hour drive from Reykjavík.It’s the second largest urban area in the country and it has a population of 19,642. That’s according to Statistics Iceland data from January 1st, 2022.

To put that into perspective, the population of people in the Reykjavík area is 135,688 according to the same source.

Akureyri is such a lovely place to walk around and explore. Some fun things to do right in the center is walk downtown, which is easily walkable. You can visit Akureyrarkirkja, which is the church at the top of the hill. There are a decent number of steps if you want to reach the top if you are walking from the main street downtown. For those in a wheelchair or that have a hard time with steps, there is wheelchair accessible parking lot and entrance.

You can also visit the botanical garden, take a dip in their epic swimming pool (it has one of the best slides!), walk along the shore and admire the gorgeous view of the fjord, attend a cultural event at the Hof culture center.

A Delicious Vegan Hot Dog in Akureyri

If you are looking for some delicious food, I highly recommend Pylsuvagninn Akureyri and Brynjuís. Btw, I’m not sponsored by them or anything like that. I’m just going to both of these places.

Pylsuvagninn Akureyri is a well-known hot dog stand in the center of town that sells delicious traditional and vegan Icelandic hot dogs! I was stunned to see that they have 8 vegan hot dog options on the menu. That is the most I’ve ever seen!

One day, I plan to do a vegan Icelandic hot dog taste test showdown that includes all 8 because why not. LOL. It’s funny to me that I’ve yet to find a vegan hot dog at a regular hot dog stand in Reykjavík but I have the choice of 8 in the north.

 

My Favorite Ice Cream in Akureyri

Brynjuís or Brynja ice cream is an ice cream shop in the town. They have vegan and dairy based ice cream. Whenever I head north, I always make it a point to stop there because I like how creamy their vegan ice cream is.

My go-to order is a bragðarefur or a tasty fox. It’s vegan coconut-based ice cream with peanut butter, blueberries, and oreos. It hits the spot every time. Just know that if you get a small, that it’s almost the equivalent of a pint of ice cream. When it comes to ice cream, Icelanders like to have big portions.

These are just some things to check out in and around downtown. One important thing I have to point out is the traffic lights. If you look closely at the red light when you are driving or riding in a vehicle, you will see that there is a heart shape there. It’s adorable!

Apparently, the hearts were placed there during the financial crisis to lift peoples spirts, encourage positive thinking, and remind them of what really matters. After the impact of the crisis started to ease, they decided to keep the lights.

2. Goðafoss waterfall

When you drive out of town, you can either take the short route, which is through the Vaðlaheiðargöng tunnel that costs 1500 ISK each way or take the longer, scenic route. Regardless of what you choose, a stop at Goðafoss waterfall is totally worth it. Goðafoss can be translated as waterfall of the gods but I have also heard waterfall of the goði. Goði were priests or chieftans way back in the day.

It’s said the waterfall got its name after Icelanders decided to convert t Christianity in the year 1,000 AD. The chieftain that was trusted to make the choice as to whether Icelanders would stay pagans or convert to Christianity, chose the latter. A

fter this decision, he returned home to the north threw the statues of the pagan gods into the waterfall. After that, it was called Goðafoss.

You can walk on either side of it and even walk down a little path to get closer. Just be aware that the wind can shift the spray of water and you can get quite wet.

3. Húsavík

As we continue on our roadtrip in the north, Húsavík is our next stop. This quaint town is often referred to as the capital of whale watching in Iceland. I didn‘t go whale watching on this trip but I have done it in the past there and it was a lot of fun. We saw a few majestic whales and a playful group of dolphins.

If you saw the Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Sage movie with Will Farell and Rachel McAdams, you might recognize that Húsavík is where they Lars and Sigrid, their characters, are from in Iceland. There is now a Ja Ja Ding Dong restaraunt there and the little fake elf houses that were in the movie. If none of this makes sense to you, I recommend checking out the movie on Netflix. If that’s not of interest, then you can just ignore this information.

Húsavík also has a unique looking church that I think is beautiful. One of my favorite things to do here on a clear day is to take a dip in the GeoSea baths. They have an infinity pool setup and gorgeous views of the sea and mountains.

4. Ásbyrgi Canyon

Onto talking about Ásbyrgi, which I can literally do all day because I absolutely love this place. It’s a horse shoe shaped glacial canyon in north Iceland that has stolen my heart. It’s full of trees, which is rare for Iceland, has a still, drop-dead gorgeous pond called Botntjörn or bottom pond, and you easily walk up some stairs to get a nice view of the canyon. If you want a view from high above the canyon, you can go on a moderately challenging hike but that is about 3.5 hours roundtrip. However, it might be difficult for those who are afraid of heights.

Personally, I love just walking around here because it feels like a magical oasis. Also, the high rock walls seem to shelter it from lots of wind. According to Icelandic folklore, Sleipnir, Óðin’s enormous eight-legged horse put one of his hooves down on earth and formed this huge canyon.

5. Dettifoss Waterfall

After Ásbyrgi is Dettifoss, Iceland´s most powerful waterfall and the second most powerful waterfall in Europe. It‘s average flow rate is 6,816 cubic square feet per second and has a drop of 44 meters. The color of the water is grayish white because it is full of sediment.

You can view Dettifoss from two sides. I normally go on the east side, route 864, because I like the view more from there. Also, it seems that the mist from the waterfall is normally being pushed to the other side. The east side is a bit more bumpier of a ride because it is a gravel road, so just be mindful of that.

6. Hverir Geothermal Area

One lovely stop is Hverir geothermal area under the Namafjall mountain. It has vibrant orange, red, and yellow colors because of all the geothermal activity. There are bubbling hot pools and steaming vents everywhere.

I highly recommend wearing boots when you walk around here because it‘s quite muddy and can be a little slippery. Also, be prepared for an intense sulfur smell. It feels and looks like an alien landscape, which is what makes it so appealing to me.

 

While I didn‘t stop there on this trip, not far from Hverir is the Mývatn nature baths. It has icy blue water like the Blue Lagoon and is nice for a soak. Some people say they like it more than the Blue Lagoon but I don‘t feel that way.

I have nothing against the place but there are other nature baths that are higher on my list of places I enjoy. I always say that it‘s best to try it out for yourself because you might find that it‘s right up your alley.

7. Mývatn Lake

Last but not least on the list is Mývatn Lake or Midge lake. The lake is named after tiny annoying flies that swarm around you during the summer. I always recommend bringing a fly net when you come here because these little flies can make it unbearable to be there during summer. If there is a lot of wind, you won‘t have to worry about it and they are only there during summer.

This shallow lake was created by a large basaltic lava eruption that happened 2,300 years ago! It‘s lovely to walk the different paths to see volcanic landforms, lava pillars and pseudocraters.

Some nice paths include the one at Skútustaðagígar, Dimmuborgir lava field, the Hverfjall Volcanic crater, and the northern shore of the lake.

Just know that there is so much more than this to do in the north and I plan to share more in future episodes.

Before moving on the Icelandic word of the episode, I’d like to thank Go Car Rental Iceland for sponsoring this episode. As a reminder, you can get 10% off your full rental car cost when you use my code Iceland10 at the time of your booking.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Norðurland – North Iceland

Random Fact of the Episode

There is a little bit of a rivalry between the north and south. Northerners often say that the weather is much better there.

While I have never heard this, I think it is funny that this route in the north is called the Diamond Circle and the famous tourist route in the south is called the Golden Circle. It feels like a bit of a one up happening.

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As a native New Yorker that has traveled to a decent number of places in the United States before moving to Iceland in 2016, I’ve noticed some fascinating differences between the cultures.

In this post, I’m pointing out 5 things about USA culture that confuses Icelanders. These are things I’ve specifically been asked by Icelanders about the US.

Here are 5 Things that Confuse Icelanders About the USA 1. Only a Two-Party Political System in the USA

Iceland and the USA have some similarities when it comes to government. For instance, both have split the government into three parts – legislative, judicial, and executive. However, it kind of ends there.

On a federal level, the US is split into only two political parties, which is seen as very limiting by Icelanders. Icelandic Parliament is made up of 63 politicians but there are many different parties that make up the government.

In fact, it is an important part of Icelandic Parliament for there to be multiple parties. Even as I have been living here, new parties have popped up and have been voted into Parliament.

Currently, it seems almost impossible for new political parties to make it to the federal level of government in the US, which clearly confuses Icelanders.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fO1O4a9LV4

2. Having different words for Niece, Nephew, Aunt, Uncle and Cousins

This one has been funny to me because I never assumed that Icelanders wouldn’t have distinctive words to describe niece, nephew, aunt, cousins, and uncle. In Icelandic, these family members are grouped together by gender.

For instance, the Icelandic word frændi is used to talk about an uncle, male cousins, or a nephew. The word frænka is used for aunt, female cousins, or a niece. When I speak to an Icelander in English and they are describing their mother’s brother, I will say “Oh, that’s your uncle” and they are like “Sure, or my frændi.”

3. Putting up signs and ropes where it is obviously dangerous

Due to the variety of raw nature and intense weather conditions, Iceland can be a dangerous place. Icelanders grow up learning about respecting nature and to keep in mind that if you are not aware, that you can get yourself into a fatal situation.

However, they expect people to use their common sense when it comes to exploring the country. For instance, not going too close to an edge of a cliff, or not stopping in the middle of the road to take photos.

The explosion of tourism meant that Icelanders needed to start putting ropes and signs in places where it might seem like overkill. Because the USA is a litigious society, it has become a default to put up signs, ropes, and warnings even in places where it is obviously dangerous. While this does confuse Icelanders, they prefer for people to stay safe.

4. The Amount of Gun Violence in the USA But the Lack of Federal Gun Control Laws

Surprisingly, there are a lot of guns in Iceland (about 70,000), which has a population of almost 370,000, but there is hardly any gun violence.

One main reason for close to no gun violence in Iceland is that guns are seen as being used for hunting and sport, not for protecting yourself. The other main reason is that there are very strict gun laws here.

To become a gun owner in Iceland, a person must take courses, pass a test, get a background check, and show that they know how to properly store the gun. There is not a federal law in the USA that controls who can and can’t be a gun owner.

Not surprisingly, when Icelanders hear about the ongoing gun violence in the USA, they are confused why there are not stronger gun laws that govern the whole country.

5. Tipping in the USA

In Iceland, people who work in the service industry are paid a living wage. It’s not encouraged to tip in Iceland, and it’s certainly not seen as a way to supplement a person’s wage so that an individual can pay their bills.

Obviously, it is confusing to Icelanders that so many people in the US rely on tips to make ends meet. Also, the % of what is expected for people to pay wait staff at restaurants is confusing too.

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