Style With Substance – Détails, épisodes et analyse

At The Vendeur we work with a lot of small sustainable brands and we truly believe that they are the future for a more sustainable world. However, it’s not easy owning a brand. And this year, a pandemic and world wide lock down made it even harder! So I thought it was appropriate to speak to someone who knows about building and sustaining brands. She's done it herself and now she helps other people to realise their dreams. 

Sustainable Fashion Accelerator

Shannon Lohr is the Founder of {r}evolution Apparel and her experience inspired her to go on to start Factory 45, an online accelerator programme for sustainable and ethical brands. We talk about a few of their success stories like capsule brand Vetta and size inclusive label Poppy Row. This episode isn’t just for brands or aspiring entrepreneurs, it’s also a handy inside look for consumers as to what a sustainable brand goes through to bring you a product and why they make the decisions they do. 

The Importance of Transparent Fashion

Shannon believes that there is no such thing as perfectly sustainable. She’s a big fan of ‘progress over perfection’. Which is why it’s so important to have honest and open communication when marketing your brand. If your products aren’t as sustainable as you would like, tell your customer. Explain to them how you are working to make your product better and include them in the development. While I have Shannon, I ask her the ugly question. Why are you helping brands create more stuff? And so far she's the first person to give me a credible answer.

Thank you to our fabulous guest, Shannon Lohr of Factory 45

Mentioned In The Episode

Alumni stories on Factory 45

Market 45

Fashion Revolutions 2020 Fashion Transparency Index

Earth Overshoot Day

Organic Cotton - Organic September With Soil Association

The SociétéGroup

More Information About The Société

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Host Lucy Kebbell

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Diamonds Are A Girls Best Friend

While diamonds are usually seen on women, the diamond industry itself has been traditionally male dominated. From the mines to the heads of large jewellery houses like Graff and De Beers. Its a topic we spoke about in more detail in episode 5 with Jewellery designer Maryline Kekeli. However this has been changing gradually over the last few years as natural diamond companies emerge as models for sustainable practises and gender equality. The diamond industry supports the livelihood of roughly 10 million people worldwide so it’s important that this community is supported. Thats where the Natural Diamond Council comes in. They provide insights and transparency for the diamond industry, promoting sustainability and ethics. The NDC works directly with diamond companies and mines to educate and encourage them to build on important areas of ecology, human rights and gender parity. One example of positive transformation is Botswana, now the second largest diamond producer in the world.

Gender Parity In Diamond Mining

Excitingly women are rising to the top of diamond businesses and taking important roles in decision making. Women represent 30% of the workforce of the worlds largest diamond producers. More and more women are being bought  into highly skilled but traditionally male dominated roles. This includes women in upper management, arguably the most key change of all. Because when diverse voices (both in gender and race) are heard at the top of companies, positive change follows. Naseem Lahri was recently appointed Managing Director of Lacura Botswana. In this episode Lucy speaks to Raluca Anghel Head of External Affairs at the Natural Diamond Council. They talk about incredible grass roots initiatives that are being built, about gender parity throughout the industry and the exciting environmental schemes that are being pioneered.

With thanks to the wonderful Raluca Anghel from Natural Diamond Council

Special thanks to Nafisa Boateng & Amie Tran 

Mentioned in the episode

Maryline Kekeli - How To support Black Owned Businesses

Nassem Lahri

Livia Firth on Fashionscapes: The Diamonds of Botswana

De Beers Mineral Carbonation

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Organic September

This September is Organic September where we celebrate and draw attention to organic farming throughout the world. Organic processes play a huge part in reducing the effects of climate change and ensure that the fibres and food we grow have as little impact on the environment as possible. To find out more we reached out to Sarah Compson. Sarah works for Soil Association as an organic textile expert and basically knows everything about organic fashion.

Organic vs Regular Cotton

We primarily talk about cotton because cotton makes up 25% of all fibres worldwide. However just 1% of cotton output is certified organic. The rest is grown using GMO seeds, copious amounts of highly toxic pesticides as well as even bigger amounts of water. You may have heard of the disappearance of the Aral sea? The world’s 4th biggest lake has all but disappeared thanks to over irrigation of agricultural land in Uzbekistan. The majority of this land is used to grow cotton. So there is an urgent need to address our reliance on cotton.

The Dangers Of Non Organic Cotton Growth

We discuss the percentage of cotton that should be organic in order to call a product organic - spoiler alert, it’s worryingly small. Sarah explains why Soil health is crucial to our planet’s survival and the important role that carbon sinks play in reversing climate change. Although 2% of all cropland is used globally for cotton, some studies claim that 16% of all pesticides sold are used just on cotton. Many of them are highly toxic and classified as hazardous by the World Health Organisation. So cotton farmers and people, animals and vegetation living in the surrounding land are at risk of serious health problems. They kill an estimated 16,000 people each year. We also talk about organic wool and silk and why you should use organic tampons if you can. Content warning - this is a bit sciency but you probably already know that Lucy is a bit of a geek when it comes to fabrics so hopefully you don’t mind indulging her.

Thank you to Sarah Compson of The Soil Association

Mentioned in the episode

GOTS

Soil Association Beauty

Greenpeace Detox Campaign

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Leather vs Vegan Leather 

Through our many conversations with founders and experts within the sustainable fashion space, we have learnt that it is not only a complicated subject, but a very nuanced one. In Episode 3 of this series, we spoke to Ioanna from Mashu, about her vegan bag label, based in London. She told us about the exciting innovations in the plant based fake leather industry. This week we’re exploring the other side of sustainable handbag manufacturing and are joined by Nika Diamond-Krendel, Founder of leather brand Paradise Row. Join us as we explore how a leather brand could be conscious and whether it can also be eco friendly. 

Socially Responsibility

So what does conscious leather production look like? 90% of the worlds leather output is chrome tanned. Nika explains more about the harmful process later, and we also talk about her preferred and more environmentally safe option, vegetable tanning. However a large part of what Paradise Row does is tell stories. Nika founded the company to address the death of artisan leather manufacturing in East London and in doing so, discovered a lot of other proud traditions that could soon be lost. Through her designs, she explores what makes East London what it is today and gives back through various social impact projects. The conversation around real vs vegan leather isn’t as simple as it first seems. With most aspects of sustainability, we're discovering that an individuals'  personal ethics play a huge role in how you decide to take part. 

Thank you to our inimitable guest Nika Diamond-Krendel, Founder of Paradise Row

Also thank you to Florence van der Spek

Mentioned In The Episode

A Guide To Organic Certifications

The Truth About Vegan Leather 

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Performative Allyship

Following the tragic loss of black lives in the US this year, and fuelled by social media, the topic around racism, allyship and tokenism has been an interesting and necessary one. It has touched every facet of our lives and fashion has had it’s own reckoning in many ways. From highlighting the plight of black and brown female garment workers to former employees calling out fashion and beauty brands for their performative stances on allyship. This week my conversation is with Maryline Kekeli, founder of jewellery brand Mamater. As a black female creative, she was concerned by the way her peers and their businesses were being portrayed in the press.

Lifting Up Black Creatives

The jewellery industry isn’t a very inclusive one and as a product historically advertised to wealthy women, by often wealthy men, black women have been woefully missing from the narrative. Marilyne has worked hard to carve out her own story, creating beautiful, and responsibly made pieces designed to let the wearers personality shine. So she is keen for her talents and brand to be talked about in its purest way, and not simply because of the colour of her skin. She believes that lumping all manner of black owned businesses into shopping guides is not the way to help. Yes we should showcase black talent and she believes that real change comes from awareness. However our support has to be respectful and long lasting, not simply a flash in the pan to appear PC or pander to a trending hashtag. 

With thanks to my incredible guest, Marilyne Kékéli

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What Is A Capsule Wardrobe

A few years ago Marie Kondo got the world buzzing with her addictive life cleansing methods. But you don’t have to chuck out 75% of your wardrobe to get the advantages of a capsule wardrobe. A lot of sustainable fashion advocates are also fans of a capsule wardrobe. You know the ones, those minimal looking rails with 15 pieces of clothing that the owner claims to mix and match for any occasion. Is it just me or does this always seem a little unattainable? I was delighted when a friend of mine, Gemma McLean started offering her services as a capsule wardrobe and style consultant. She always looks effortless on social media and claims it’s all down to the magic of a capsule wardrobe.

Rewearing Is the Future

Any notions we have about spending more money to make our wardrobes more sustainable couldn't be further from the truth. Gemma is a big fan of rewearing, of swapping, renting and buying second hand. After all, in the words of Orsola de Castro, the most sustainable garment is the one already in your wardrobe. Wise words in a world where Gen Z feel judged by their peers for wearing the same outfit twice. Gemma hopes that times are changing and I do too. There are some pieces that I would never part with. So how can you spend minimal money and effort to achieve a stylish, time saving and sustainable wardrobe? Gemma has the low down. 

With thanks to our Incredible guest Gemma McLean

You can find Gemma here and you can watch her over on her  Youtube channel. Her eBook ‘ How to build the perfect capsule Wardrobe’ can be purchased here

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Mentioned in the Episode

#outfitrepeater

Make It Last by The Vendeur

Clothes Doctor Podcast

SewnRight

Sojo App

The Seam London

#30wears 

Pinterest

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Host: Lucy Kebbell

Theme Composer: Joe Murgatroyd

What Is Vegan Leather Made Of?

This week I’m exploring vegan leather and it’s place within the contemporary fashion landscape. Did you know that vegan leather is usually made of PU, which is polyurethane, which is made from oil? The majority of vegan leather you will find on the high street especially is made of PU. Having oil products so close to your skin is a little worrying right? However there are some exciting new innovative plant based textiles that are fabulous faux leather substitutes.

Plant Based Alternatives

One brand using these alternatives is Mashu. I originally came across Mashu at London Fashion Week and couldn’t believe that these cool, sculptural bags were made of eco friendly materials. Mashu’s Founder Ioanna is passionate about creating really good quality leather substitutes for vegans and people who want an eco alternative to leather. The brand is manufactured in her native Greece and she uses all sorts of interesting materials to try to be as close to zero waste as possible. In this conversation she tells us about the cons of real leather production and tanning and why she believes that plant based textiles are the future for accessories brands. 

With thanks to the wonderful Ioanna Topouzoglou

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Made In Africa

Based in Audrey's mother country Kenya, the brand employs artisans, all of whom are not only paid a fair wage but are empowered through the community and work that Yala brings. Audrey is passionate about running a brand with strong social values, and one that also challenges the inaccurate preconceptions that those outside of Africa have about what the people there make. I’m sure some of us here could admit to dismissing ‘Made in Africa’ as a sign of cheap workmanship. However this couldn’t be further from the truth. The skill involved in creating Audrey’s designs is highly coveted and being a jewellery maker at one of Yala’s workshops has a waiting list. 

An Empowered Workforce

Audrey is here to champion Kenyan design and craftsmanship, not to mention empower her supply chain. And she has a pretty unique way of doing business which she talks about later in the conversation. Audrey knows her artisans personally and visits the workshops as often as she can. Ensuring that the people in her supply chain are supported is vital to the success of Yala Jewellery. I also learnt more about her B Corporation certificate. I also learnt something interesting about ice cream, but I won’t spoil the surprise.

With thanks to the inspiring Audrey Migot-Adholla

Mentioned in the episode

Yala Jewellery

B Corporation Certification

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By 2050 there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish! Now thats a shocking statement. Unfortunately it’s just a scare tactic to help you remember your keep cup in the morning but is a completely accurate prediction based on our current rates of consumption. According to Greenpeace we dump around 12 million tonnes of plastic into our oceans each year. Most of it is washed into the sea from land, making its way through water ways to end up in the ocean. Others are so small you can’t see them. 

Micro plastics have been discovered in the stomachs of sea life, and so inadvertently as fish eaters, it’s also in our stomachs too. Single use plastic is undeniably a huge problem, but the good news is that you have the power to change this. If we all make some small changes and use less plastic, the result could be transformative for our environment.

Sophie Rist is the Founder of Agnes LDN, a handmade lifestyle brand selling reusables and teaching us more about using less plastic. We hope you enjoy the episode, don't forget to rate, review and subscribe so more people can find us. Or maybe you can share this episode with a friend that you think would enjoy it. 

With thanks to our amazing guest Sophie Rist

Mentioned in the episode

• The Plastic Ocean
• Agnes LDN podcast 
• @zerowastehome
• @trashisfortossers
• @packagefreeshop
• CC Creative Wardrobe x Agnes LDN - Something Old, Something New
• Sabinna x Agnes LDN
• Plastic Free Life Hacks
•  Plastic Free Bathroom 
• How To Have a waste Free Picnic 

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As we recorded this episode, the societal landscape throughout the world was shifted yet again, in a hugely profound way. A social revolution is following after the brutal death of George Flloyd at the hands of Police in Minnesotta, USA was filmed. Protests have taken place around the world and social media has been abuzz with black people calling out racism. It has also begun a global discussion around allyship, anti racism and equal rights. 

This was initially meant to be an episode discussing the effect of COVID-19 on the fashion industry however it is important that when talking about ethics and sustainability we also talk about equal rights. And there's no getting away from the huge gap in equality that exists in society, and within the fashion industry.

In this bonus episode we speak to Livia van Heerde, not only is she an interesting voice in the sustainable fashion space but she is an Environmental Science to Climate Change student. Livia writes about environmental sustainability and social responsibility as well as appearing on many panel discussions. 

We discuss the plight of Bangladeshi garment workers, many of whom have been laid off due to $1.5 Billion of cancelled orders from big fashion brands. Union busting is now rife in Myanmar. Union members are being fired under the guise of financial difficulties as a result of lockdowns and cancelled orders. Closer to home, the  Black Lives Matter movement is gaining momentum and we have seen fashion brands publish disingenuous statements of support for the black community. We question how brands will be implementing strategies to support black people going forwards throughout their companies and in their supply chains. With fashion week coming up, what will be the future of the fashion show? Livia explains the carbon footprint of fashion shows and events and asks whether we will see the privatisation or the further democratisation of fashion? She also shines light on the environmental impact of shopping online, and the problem of buying to return.

With thanks to our lovely guest Livia van Heerde

Resources Mentioned

Clean Clothes Campaign

Labour Behind The Label

Remake

Eco Age Report into Boohoo's Treatment Of Staff

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