A Thousand Facets – Détails, épisodes et analyse

A thousand facets sits with Sian Evans, Jewellery designer, goldsmith and lapidarist. We talked about her beginnings in the jewelry industry, her 15 years creating her production line, then change to be a lecturer and Central Saint Martins and going back to her roots in the goldsmiths work to create a more thoughtful, slow collection! Hope you enjoy our conversation. About: Sian’s work is inspired by interests in archaeology, fashion, geology, nature and sustainable technologies with a deep interest in storytelling. Her many jewellery collections over her career have taken some very different forms, stemming from ideas, ethics and heuristics. Some fashion lead, some materials lead and some process lead. Each of her collections in the last decade have been explorations of process in a long term project about sustainable working practices : Learning a jewellery technology, often, an ancient technology with a low carbon footprint, using recycled or found precious materials, then designing and making collections of jewels that incorporate these. This is her modus operandi and an act of reverence for our skilled, ingenious ancestors. She studied jewellery design, silversmithing and goldsmithing from 1982-86 at The Cass ( City of London Polytechnic - now London Metropolitan University ) In her Summer breaks she worked as a volunteer archaeologist in Dorset. Her first studio was established the year she graduated in 1986, in Spitalfields, London. In the ensuing years she designed and created in this first studio, the biannual collections shown at London, Paris and New York fashion weeks that she became known for. Then from her next larger studio, in Clerkenwell, close to Londons jewellery quarter Hatton Garden, she worked producing collections at the bench alongside her small team of craftspeople. These early collections sold internationally to many stockists and galleries, winning her export and design awards. During this period she was commissioned by designers including Jo Casely-Hayford and Paul Smith, to create lines for them, and by Costume designers for film and TV productions. Her work was regularly seen in the pages of newspapers, glossy magazines and on the ears and necks of TV and film stars. For 13 years she was Senior Lecturer at BA Jewellery Design, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts. Her research focus: Sustainability and mining , Neolithic and Bronze age technology. Lithics and metalworking She left UAL at the end of 2014 to return to and pursue her design and creative practice. Since reestablishing her practice she has won several awards and accolades : Most notably, her work is in the V & A collection, she has exhibited and sold her work at Sotheby’s. She is a Homo Faber Master Artisan. A Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust ( QEST ) grant in 2022 helped to extend her lapidary study, into the wonderful and ancient arts of Intaglio and Cameo carving . She has won a number of awards from the Goldsmiths Design and Craft Awards in different categories ranging from major design awards to awards for craft skills in lapidary. For the past few years she has presented her work annually at The Goldsmiths Fair, in 2024 she was selected by The Goldsmiths Fair and QEST to exhibit at Collect . You can follow Sian Evans on Instagram @sianevansjewellery , visit her website https://www.sejewellery.com/ Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

A thousand facets sits with Nia Tahani from Gem Corps. They talk about her beginnings in the jewelry industry, how she fell in love with state jewelry and how events in history have created the path she has taken! We talked about the inception of the  Sweet CHAIRiot and the history of Blackamoor jewelry! Sweet CHAIRiotSince the Montgomery Melee, the folding chair has expanded even further into the realm of social justice memorabilia. Sweet CHAIRiot is an antique-inspired and culturally informed pendant designed by The Gem Corps, fine estate jewelry curators. It's a symbol of resistance and remembrance for the freedom fighters, justice reformers, and those who claim... About: Since 2015 The Gem Corps has been a pursuit of a passion for fine jewelry and storytelling. The allure of estate jewelry-antique, vintage, & modern-is inherent in its qualities of fine craftspersonship, its one-of-a-kind nature, the history, and sustainability. There’s a certain magic to these pieces that transcends time and yet so powerfully reconnects us to our history and each other. You can follow Nia Tahan on Instagram @gemcorps , visit her website www.gemcorps.com Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

A thousand facets sits with Emily Thatcher and they spoke about her love for making things, her fascination with microbiology and of course, this turned into a history podcast because why not?! Hope you enjoyed this conversation! Artists Statement My voluminous settings, in which I seat the stone, give space to admire their many aspects. The placement of the stone in the setting parallels the microscopic structures that are so fascinating to me. The interplay of light & shadow is another important aspect of my metal work; using gentle curves, intersected by flat plains, creating a simultaneously visually stimulating & tactile finish. Every component in my jewellery is either forged or sand cast as a one-off in my Sheffield studio. The creating of a new piece often begins with me alloying the gold in the studio to my own rich hue which has become the signature of my work. My most recent necklace style, The Camur, is comprised of a handmade chain that I developed with an undulating pattern, using the rich gold contrasting with palladium or oxidised silver to accentuate this aspect. Believing that no part of the piece should be hidden and that every part should be made to be admired, this has led me to incorporate the clasp as the main visual element in the piece. You can follow Emily on Instagram @emilythatcherjeweller, visit her website https://www.emilythatcher.co.uk/ Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

A thousand facets sits with Chris Boland and they talked about his love for minerals, geology and the true meaning of his inspirations. We question what it is to be responsible in the jewelry business and what is the right music to listen while you work! Spoiler alert, we disagree! About Chris Boland My fascination of inorganic structure is used to inform my bespoke jewellery pieces. Strong, bold shapes stress the unique qualities of the inclusions of the gemstones. I draw inspiration from surface treatment of architectural metalwork and sculpture, where marks made during the construction of the work are allowed to remain, often emphasized. For Me, the authorship lies very much in the making on the object. I work in metal, directly exploring the physical properties of the material. What is presented is not a facsimile of works in wax or additive manufacture but a primary reaction of tools on metal. I use traditional manufacturing technique (score-folding, soldering, filing and hand-finishing). From conception, the jewellery is minimal and fundamental. However, through the construction process; complexity is built in to the piece by serendipitous mark making and a real time reaction to a developing form . Always by design, the stone is offered up to the viewer, in a pleasing and unorthodox way. The story of the gemstone is of fundamental importance in my work and so all the stones used are natural and not overly treated. My belief is that it is important to tell the story of the stones using unique designs in metal. You can follow Chris on Instagram @chrisbolanddesigns, visit his website https://www.chrisbolanddesigns.com/ Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

A thousand facets sits with the charismatic Allana Lalot and they talk about how she started in the world of sales in the jewelry industry! She had a passion for music and without knowing, she'll be wrapped in the jewelry world! Hope you can join us for this funny, insightful and educational conversation. About Allana: Allana left Australia at 21 in pursuit of a career in the music industry, which landed her in Vancouver, Canada which has been home for the past 17 years. She has worked in the jewelry industry now for 13 years doing everything from PR to marketing and sales - traveling the globe. She started LALOT 5 years ago with a focus on representing jewelry brands/designers that are handmade, responsible and ethical. You can follow Allana on Instagram @allanalalot and @lalotcollective, visit her website https://lalotcollective.com/ Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

A thousand facets sits with Rachel Jones, they talk about her beginnings in the jewelry world, her inspirations and how she found her voice! We discuss her research on creating the ombre alloys that she is getting known for! Hope you enjoy this wonderful conversation! ABOUT RACHEL Rachel’s handcrafted jewellery brings together colourful gemstones and gold that shifts in light that mesmerize.  Brimming with colour, each piece is a one of a kind treasure, that’s brings the joy of colour through artistry and craftsmanship. Inspired by precious jewellery materials, Rachel works with the foundations of jewellery; gold and gemstones. Through hand selecting multi-coloured or colour changing gems to alloying her own gold in-house, Rachel creates future heirlooms with a contemporary twist.  Bespoke jewellery allows the wearer to combine their unique gemstone and coloured gold combination, the defines their style and personality.  Each piece starts its journey with a gemstone, hand selected by Rachel from trusted suppliers around the world, from Australian opals and sapphires to Brazilian tourmalines and Bolivian Ametrine.  Each gemstone is paired with the perfect colour and tone of gold, from buttery 18ct yellow to cool 18ct white or romantic 18ct pink gold. The alchemy of gold is used to craft a spectrum of tones and hues but alloying fine gold, fine silver, copper and sometimes palladium. This means each piece is individual to the wearer and will become a future heirloom to last for generations to come.  You can follow Rachel on Instagram @racheljonesjewellery, visit her website https://www.racheljonesjewellery.com/ Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

A thousand facets sits with Cristina Villegas from Moyo Gems and we talk about the importance of artisanal miner or small-scale miner (ASM). How she help created an environment of education and empowerment of women miners in Kenya and Tanzania to thrive and the importance of educating oneself in the gemstones and gold we use for our jewelry. This is a truly important conversation. About Cristina Maria Villegas is the Director of Sustainable Jewelry & Strategic Initiatives at Pact, a global nonprofit organization at work in 40 countries worldwide. She is a leading expert on responsible mineral sourcing and on artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM). With deep experience across Africa, Asia and Latin America, she is best known for her specialty in colored gemstones, diamonds, and gold. Cristina is the co-founder of Moyo Gems, a direct sourcing initiative focused on the women gemstone miners and entrepreneurs of East Africa. She is a member of the Gemstone Knowledge Hub, is on the Board of Directors of Ethical Metalsmiths, is an ASM advisor to the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, and is a technical advisor to the Conservation X Prize’s Amazon Grand Challenge. She’s been quoted in Vogue, The Financial Times, The Guardian, Reuters, Wired, JCK, among others. She lectures for Columbia University’s Executive Course on Extractives and for Columbia University’s Massive Open Online Course (MOOC), where she leads the coursework on ASM. In 2021, she won the top prize in jewelry reform: The IAC Award for Leadership in Responsible Practice in Jewelry. You can follow Cristina on Instagram @cristina.rocks and @moyogems, visit her website www.moyogems.com , www.natureswealth.org Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

A thousand facets talk to Romilly Saumarez Smith and they talk about her beginnings as a book binder, her romance with jewelry and her wonderful translators! About: In Robert McFarlane's The Wild Places he says that “true wildness is hard to find any more but it is still there in the tiny plants, mosses and lichens that live between rocks and tussocks. They are complete worlds in themselves.” I hope that my jewellery might be like that. I use diamond beads and small silver and gold pieces secured either side of a drilled out plate to build up these landscapes. The underside, where the wires are balled with the torch, becomes the roots as if a section of earth has been pulled from the ground. Much of my deep imagination lies under the sea. I like the way that barnacles encrust the surface of things. It's a long process of buildup, a random design that looks completely meant. The making of a piece of jewellery takes time, the placement of small elements doesn't need to be planned too much but builds slowly to a whole. You can follow Romilly on Instagram @romillysaumarezsmith2, visit her website https://www.romillysaumarezsmith.com/ Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

On the premiere of Season two, A thousand facets sits with the incomparable Gabriella Kiss. They have a candid conversation about her childhood, her love for everything nature and her relationship with Ted Muehling. About: Gabriella Kiss’ delicate, figurative jewelry is at once poetic and scientific. Meticulously crafted in the finest materials, her precision reveals the awesome beauty of nature’s nuances. The daughter of a research scientist, Gabriella studied sculpture at New York’s Pratt Institute, learning to make wax models for casting, a technique that now defines her jewelry designs. Through her renowned jewelry, Gabriella gracefully honors her enduring fascination with nature, with life cycles, with birth and death and the universe in between. Gabriella has an eye for the small and is drawn to detail, deriving inspiration from the flora and fauna of nature and the life cycles of the natural world and art history. The pieces are meant to have a personal meaning to the wearer, beyond adornment. “By working in a narrative and symbolic language, I want people to respond and interpret their own personal connections to pieces given to them, or that they choose themselves. My forms are both abstract and/or representational – from a distance, my snake necklace looks like a graceful line drawing, yet up close, the identity of a creature is revealed. These elements of surprise and humor are important in a time where irony and cynicism are everywhere, and sincerity is rare.”  You can follow Gabriella on Instagram @gabriellakissjewelry, visit her website https://gabriellakiss.com/ Please visit @athousandfacets on Instagram to see some of the work discussed in this episode. Music by @chris_keys__ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

On this episode, A thousand facets introduces Season 2 of the podcast and answers some of the questions sent on the Instagram stories. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices