Explore every episode of the podcast XChateau Wine Podcast
Dive into the complete episode list for XChateau Wine Podcast. Each episode is cataloged with detailed descriptions, making it easy to find and explore specific topics. Keep track of all episodes from your favorite podcast and never miss a moment of insightful content.
Rows per page:
50
1–50 of 219
Title
Pub. Date
Duration
Unpacking the cost of growing grapes w/ Natalie Collins, CAWG
23 Jul 2025
01:00:31
In an oversupplied market with rising costs, being a winegrape grower is probably the hardest it has ever been. Natalie Collins, President of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, breaks down the cost of winegrape growing in CA, the challenges in the marketplace, and the policy dynamics in the US, CA, and EU that continue to exacerbate the challenges for CA’s winegrape growers.
Detailed Show Notes:
CA Winegrape Growers - based in Sacramento, lobbies at the state and federal level
CA has ~5,900 winegrape growers and 550k planted acres
Key cost drivers of winegrape growing
#1 labor, ~45-50% of budget (30-45% CA interior, 45-65% CA coast); doubled in the last 10 years, driven by:
High min wage ($16.50; most pay $18-30/hr) → increases take entire pay curve up, not just bottom
2016 labor law change reducing hours before overtime pay → reduced farmworker take-home pay (OR provides an overtime tax credit to employers)
Cal State SLO study on lettuce growers - compliance costs ~$1,600/acre (1,366% increase since 2006, 637% since 2022)
#3 land - CA has some of the highest land prices in the US
#4 crop protection/fertility tools
Farming costs ~$4k/acre Central Valley, $6-8k/acre Paso Robles, $8-10k/acre Sonoma, ~$10-17k/acre Napa
Grape pricing not rising w/ input costs - Central Valley ~$500-600/ton, Central Coast ~$1-2k/ton
Bulk wine from Chile is cheap, and the US can’t compete on price
The annual CA Winegrape Crush Report shows pricing for all varieties by district
No US federal support vs EU
EU subsidizes at every level (growing, marketing, production)
>e2B/year in direct and local support, enabling cheap wine production
Crisis distillation - buy surplus wine to convert to alcohol (e.g., hand sanitizer)
Vineyard removal and vineyard planting subsidies
Aggressive marketing support (France investing $5B to support wine exports to the US w/ new tariffs)
US wines can have up to 25% foreign wine blended in and be labeled as US wine
2023-2024 - CA left ~300k tons/year on the vines; 2025 ~50% of vineyards don’t have a contract for the 2025 harvest; industry calling for another 50k acres to be removed (60k removed since 2022); all regions pulling out or mothballing/minimally farming vines
Tariff impacts (May 2025)- input costs increase, but can be positive for CA winegrape growers
2019 tariffs saw domestic wine increase its share by 10% vs EU wines
Canada is actively removing US wines from shelves in retaliation; the US exports 10% of its wines, 40% to Canada
Deportations - creating fear, people are afraid to leave their homes for fear of their families getting separated
Seasonal labor is not big, 90% vineyards are mechanically harvested; H2A temporary workers (mostly from Mexico, all-in cost ~$30/hr, often more productive, cannot be paid more than domestic workers)
Economic impact of CA wine - 422k CA employees / 1.1M across US, $73B CA economic impact / $175B/year US
All agriculture is struggling in CA, replacement crops for grapes not easy (some almonds, pistachios, cherries); costs ~$30-70k/acre to plant a vineyard
Duty Drawback - a federal tax refund program meant to encourage exports
If a winery exports wines, then imports them back, it gets 99% of import fees (including the Federal Excise Tax of $1.07/gallon) refunded
If importing ~$3/gallon bulk wine, can save ~30%
Mostly used by the top 5 wine companies
2024 - 38M gallons bulk imported (70M in 2022) vs ~70M gallons left on the vine in 2023
Replicating the Farmer’s Eye w/ Kia Behnia & Mason Earles, Scout
11 Jul 2025
00:54:21
Having met at the UC Davis Wine Executive Program, Kia Behnia, CEO, and Mason Earles, CTO, founded Scout to replicate the best sensor in the vineyard, “the farmer’s eye.” Leveraging off-the-shelf hardware, Scout uses AI to process images taken from a tractor to automate vineyard mapping, vine counting, yield forecasting, virus identification, and more. From managing vineyard assets to implementing precision agriculture to improve quality, Scout is harnessing the power of AI to optimize vineyard management.
Detailed Show Notes:
Mason’s background - UC Davis Professor, Apple, AI & agriculture
Kia’s background for Scout - owns the Neotempo wine brand, worked at Splunk, the “data for everything” company
The official company name is Agricultural Scout, dba Scout, the website is agscout.ai, so it can be called any of those names
Founded in 2022, initially more hardware-based, but pivoted to an intelligence company using off-the-shelf hardware
The goal is to “replicate the farmer’s eye” with an AI-based solution using cameras, tractors, and Scout cloud and mobile app (which can be used offline); the brain is centered around a phone
US only today (~50-100 clients, 300 blocks, 2M vines, processed 56M photos), going international in 2026
4 main use cases currently:
Automate vine count, inventory, and mapping of vines - 4x faster than people could do
Estimate crop performance - both vigor and fruit
Yield forecasting - can use every step in the growing season to forecast yield with historical performance and weather forecasts
Health performance and vine mapping - leveraging AI for virus detection
3 types of clients
Estate wineries
Vineyard management companies (“VMC”)
Real estate investors or owners to track vineyards
Benefits include:
$400-1,200 savings/acre
Productivity gains through managing more acres with fewer people, identifying low-performing vines, and the program tells farmers where to sample
Remote monitoring of faraway vineyards
Early season yield forecasting
Disease management - virus can cause $170k/acre damage over 3-5 years, costs $40/PCR test, the goal is to keep virus <15% not to lose the whole block, has a 7,000 photo database on vine disease
Bench Vineyards discovered 1 acre of missing vines out of 24 acres and filled them in
Pricing is a subscription model, $150-180/acre per scan
Volume discounts >50 acres
Neighborhood and AVA discounts
Starter - 2 scan package (for inventory and virus)
Professional - 6 scan package
Typical customer starts w/ 2 and upgrades to 6
Monarch promotion, customers get 1 free scan
Up front hardware costs ~$3,000
New product in beta in July 2025 - ChatGPT Scout for vineyards
Marketing mostly through word of mouth, industry trade shows, and webinars have been effective, as has partnership with Monarch (already tech enthusiasts)
Barriers to purchase are often due to farming budgets built around labor
A Medical Record for Each Vine w/ Shawn DeMartino, Sentinel
05 Mar 2025
01:02:04
After struggling with tracking vineyard data firsthand, Shawn DeMartino, CEO and Founder of Sentinel, decided to create a solution with his partner. Enabling vine by vine mapping and data collection that could stand the test of time enables vineyard managers to increase the lifespan of a vineyard, manage viruses, and effectively create a “medical record” for each individual vine.
Detailed Show Notes:
Shawn’s background - winemaking, viticulture, now general management
Sentinel was a Covid project that became real, software that collects individual vine information over time
“Patient medical system of record for vines”
The solution includes a mobile app, desktop platform, and high-accuracy GPS (receivers that clip onto phones)
Montepulciano vs. Montepulciano w/ Max de Zarobe, Avignonesi
27 Apr 2022
00:48:45
Sharing a name causes confusion. Trademark and appellation laws are there to protect them. However, it can be harder to resolve when this confusion is within the same country. That’s the challenge Montepulciano (both the town and and the wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano) faces against its bigger neighbor Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Max de Zarobe of Avignonesi describes the history, challenges, and steps taken to clarify the names and the wines.
If you’d like to support the show, please sign up on Patreon!
Detailed Show Notes:
Max’s background - in shipping, ended up in wine by mistake
Avignonesi background
Originally a noble family from Montepulciano
Based in the SE part of Tuscany, close to Umbria
Best known for Vin Santo
Top 5 producers in the region (~175ha planted; ~100/~1,300ha of Vino Nobile)
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (“VN”)
From the town of Montepulciano, Tuscany
Historically controlled by Florence
Min 70-80% Sangiovese, trend for all local varietals
Three years to produce
~10M bottles annually
~3x the price of MA
Named “Nobile” due to nobility consuming the wine in history - only two places in Italy were known for noble wine vs. wine for food, Barolo and Montepulciano
Once famed as the best wine in Tuscany - it was imported by Thomas Jefferson to the US (~$250/year)
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (“MA”)
From the province of Umbria (East Italy)
It uses the Montepulciano grape variety
One year to produce
~120M bottles annually
Other naming confusions resolved by the EU: Champagne/Cava, Tokaji/Tocai, Prosecco/Glera. Internationall, cross border conflicts get good support from their governments
Naming conflict a domestic dispute - VN did not get gov’t support as it is small (Montepulciano has ~18k people/~15k voters; Abruzzo is ~2.2M people/~2M voters)
VN is challenged by the squeeze between Brunello (confusion w/ Montalcino, leads the American market due to investment of Banfi) and MA (shared name)
VN promotion challenges & actions
No one spoke English (even the President and GM of Consorzio do not speak English); Avignonesi has organized local English classes for children
Consorzio tried to get support from politicians but unsuccessful
As of last year, put “Vino di Toscana” on the label - limited impact as many don’t know Abruzzo is a province
Want to highlight “Nobile” vs. full VN name
Issue: can’t use an adjective to name a wine (EU law), “Nobile” is both an adjective and a noun; thus the full VN name was adopted
Alliance Vinum, a band of 6 producers, uses “Nobile” by printing it on the “back” label, which is functionally the front label
The low and no alcohol wine space is growing rapidly. Enough so that a company specializing in spinning cone technology to reduce alcohol, ConeTech, changed its name to BevZero. Debbie Novograd, CEO, and Kayla Winter, Director of Product Services & Winemaking, discuss the technology, the challenges of producing good no alcohol wine, and the market for low and no alcohol wines.
Don’t forget to support the show on Patreon and get access to our backlog of great episodes and show notes!
Detailed Show Notes:
Alcohol reduction technologies
Reverse Osmosis - pass wine through filters, removes water and alcohol, can only bring down abv by a few % per pass, requires multiple passes to get to 0% (more taken out of the wine)
Spinning Cones - creates thin film vacuum distillation with heat added (37C) to extract alcohol w/o cooking wine, only spends a few seconds in still
BevZero history
Founded in 1991 as ConeTech as a tool in the winemaker’s toolbelt to adjust alcohol to hit a “sweet spot”
Before 2018, >14% abv wines had a higher excise tax, alcohol reduction used to bring wines below 14%
With the rapidly changing social media landscape, TikTok has started (as of late 2021, early 2022) to arrive as a place for wine lovers. Wine influencer Amanda McCrossin (somm_vivant) has gained momentum in this “wild west” and now has over 100k followers. She shares her journey, best practices, and what makes TikTok special.
Detailed Show Notes:
Former sommelier and wine director at Press Napa Valley, full background on Episode 12
Boxing for the Environment w/ Jason Haas, Tablas Creek Vineyard
06 Apr 2022
00:34:31
Constantly looking to improve its environmental impact, Jason Haas, Second Generation Proprietor of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, recently released a trial of 3L bag-in-box wines at $95/box. Though this is 15% lower than the normal bottle price, it still represented ~3x the highest boxed wine in the market. However, the potential to lower the total carbon footprint of the wine by 40% led to trialing and a terrific reaction to the 300 box trial, which sold out in 4 hours. Jason explains the rationale, strategy, and process of going bag-in-box and for other alternative packaging.
If you love the show, please consider supporting us on Patreon.
Detailed Show Notes:
The rationale for trying bag-in-box
Did a self-assessment of the winery’s carbon footprint - on the Tablas Creek blog
For the average CA winery, >50% of the carbon footprint is from the glass bottle (including transportation), as glass requires high temperatures to mold and has a heavy impact on shipping and transportation
Tablas Creek moved to a lightweight bottle in ~2010, which saves ~10% of CO2 footprint; heavier bottles are ~10% more
3L bag-in-box reduces packaging carbon footprint by ~84% and ~40% of the total carbon footprint
A wine blogger commented on Jason’s Facebook that Tablas Creek is well-positioned to create change w/ bag-in-box
Previously topped out at ~$35 for 3L, or ~$7.50/bottle
Tablas Creek bag-in-box trial
Bottled 100 cases of Patelin de Tablas Rose, ~300 3L boxes
Got ~60k views on a blog post on boxes in 2 days, lots of positive comments
In mid-Feb 2022, released the boxes to the member email list and sold out in 4 hours
Wines are currently under screw cap, meaning they are similar and don’t need adjustments to be in a bag-in-box
Future bag-in-box efforts
May extend to all 3 Patelin de Tablas bottlings (red, white, rose), which sell for $28/bottle retail, and other wines not meant for long aging
Likely will not sell in distribution - an “uphill battle,” with the price point being too high vs. the existing market
Bag-in-box ties to Tablas Creek’s mission - “to have a positive impact on the way grapes are grown, wine is made, and how wine is packaged and sold”
Box pricing
$28/bottle retail would be $112 for 4 bottles (1 box)
Cost is less for packaging, which was passed along to customers
Priced at $95/3L box, thought it was good to be under $100
Bag-in-box bottling & storage process
Bottling boxes was the biggest challenge at a small scale
Rented a semi-automated filler (would cost ~$10-12k to buy)
Very labor-intensive, took 4 hours for 324 boxes
There’s now a mobile bottling (boxing) line with bag-in-box capabilities based in Sonoma, may rent this for future boxings
Not a lot of reliable data on how wine ages in boxes outside of 6-12 months, will be tasting and testing
Bags in the boxes have higher oxygen transfer rates (“OTR”) than glass bottles
Once opened, the boxes stay fresh for at least several weeks
Crafting a Brand for Millennials w/ Ben Matthews, Terratorium Wines
30 Mar 2022
00:51:11
Combining a passion for wine with a background in marketing to Millennials from Proctor and Gamble, Ben Matthews launched Terratorium Wines. Building a brand for Millennials has led to creating target personas, packaging elements that lead to more transparency, and pricing to create a fine wine entry point. Hear about how Terratorium is creating brand alignment with its Millennial customers.
Want straightforward, more “natural,” less manufactured products - concern for clean ingredients for products that are “in you,” “on you,” or “around you”
Want alignment on brand values, it’s more than just economics
Like transparency for the manufacturing process
Not as price-sensitive as people think they are
Want to support brands you’re proud to tell your friends about, which increases the word of mouth velocity, e.g., Tom’s Shoe’s “Buy 1, Give 1”
Need the right price point (there’s a ceiling for Millennials) - ~$25-low $40s for a single vineyard, craft wine; the market entry point for fine wine
Millennials are now 50% of parents, which is influencing buying practices, sustainability becoming more important
Developed personas for their target consumers - “who is my who?”
Came up with fictitious characters - “Jake” and “Meaghan”
Average older millennial professionals
Creates a brand lens for wine style, packaging, varietal selection, etc...
Terratorium varietals
Try to bring in not quite mainstream varieties
Millennials like learning about things
Packaging - P&G says it’s “the 1st moment of truth” - need to capture the eye
Front label
abstract graphic to visualize tasting notes, colors represent flavors that correlate to tasting icons on the back
Back label
Tasting icons on what the tastes of the wine are
Regional / vineyard information (new) - more hooks to remember the region (e.g. - soil types, climate)
QR code for the website - will be more targeted in the future
The Instagram handle on the back label - try to drive more traffic
In the future - will have ingredients, nutritional information on the website
Winemaking for Millennials
They like lower abv, fresher wines vs. heavier, oaky, more savory beverages
Wine Clubs
likely to remain a viable system w/ Millennials, like regular shipments, discounts, and some form of community
Building awareness through marketing
Active on social media - Instagram, Facebook, YouTube are the main channels for the older Millennials
Partnerships with adjacent categories (e.g., nutritionists, health-conscious proponents)
More in-person events in core markets - create more word of mouth presence, can’t replicate the in-person tasting experience
Podcasts - saw some sales from the Inside Winemaking connection
Regenerative, the Only Sustainable Farming w/ Jason Haas, Tablas Creek Vineyard
23 Mar 2022
00:44:29
Taking over from his father, 2nd generation proprietor of Tablas Creek Vineyard, Jason Haas left a career in technology to dig into the soils of Paso Robles. Spearheading the conversion to Biodynamic farming and now the certification of Regenerative Organic farming, Tablas Creek has pioneered not just the Rhone movement in California, but of Regenerative farming, which looks to take into account the farm’s impact on the soil, community, and region. Jason believes that Regenerative farming is the only truly sustainable way to farm. Listen in to Tablas Creek’s progression from organic to biodynamic to regenerative.
All Rhone varieties, including rarer varietal wines
Own 270 acres, 125 planted to vines
Regenerative farming - similar to biodynamics, but thinks more about the externalities of agriculture
Has commitments to less use of shared resources (e.g. - water, power)
Has an additional focus on the big picture (e.g. - climate change with a metric to increase the carbon content of the soil)
Biodynamics is process-based whereas regenerative farming is results-based
Requires a series of audits - soil health audit, animal welfare certification (that they are treated humanely), farmworker audit (paying fair wages, increasing their skills -> led to weekly roundtable meetings)
Focus on the positive impact on the soil, community, and region
Does not have cow horns or the cycles of the moon like biodynamics
Regenerative is an alternative to biodynamics that is more focused on science vs mystical processes
Benefits of the various farming practices
Conventional - cheapest in the short term
Organic - in the long run, not more expensive than conventional. Organic certification in wine has been mostly for lower-end wines in the $10-15/bottle
Biodynamics -Initially believed it would increase the lifetime of vines and gain in quality from older vines. Discovered that lots grown biodynamically were the best lots right away in blind tastings.
Regenerative farming - Less about the grapes vs biodynamics, more in externalities
Regenerative farming pilot program
6 Regenerative Organic certified wineries at the moment
Got invited to the pilot w/o knowing what “regenerative” was or meant
Can use the “Regenerative Organic” seal on their wines (vs just for the grapes)
Costs of farming
Biodynamic/regenerative - have more hands-on labor vs organic or conventional farming
Less chemical purchases
Cost on a $/ton basis for farming has not increased significantly vs organic (~$3-5,000/ton)
Has not experienced yield reductions, the yield has been more dependent on water (e.g. - 2-2.5 tons per acre in a dry / frost year vs up to 3.5 tons per acre for a wetter year)
Has been able to avoid significant labor issues by maintaining its own vineyard crew (10 FTEs, started w/ own crew in 1996), paying a living wage and good labor conditions have led to good recruitment and retention of crew workers
Standing Out via AR and Celebrities w/ Ming Alterman, 19 Crimes
16 Mar 2022
00:45:12
Seemingly overnight, 19 Crimes, a division of Treasury Wine Estates, has become a Top 15 brand in the US and has a global impact. Re-imagining what a wine brand could be, 19 Crimes has had many innovations, but found lasting success with augmented reality and celebrity partnerships with Snoop Dogg and Martha Stewart. Ming Alterman, Brand Director for 19 Crimes, gives us the history, best practices, and keys to success for the brand and AR.
If you love the show, please consider supporting us on Patreon.
Detailed Show Notes:
19 Crimes Overview
A Top 15 brand in the US according to Nielsen IRI, ~500k cases sold at $11.50/bottle average
A virtual brand, no winery, no visible winemaker - disrupts what a wine brand can be - “The non-wine drinkers' wine”
Americans often pick up a bottle because of the look and feel - developed the packaging and story to engage the consumer
1st black matte bottle, collectible corks with crimes on them, and augmented reality (AR
Still need a wine that delivers for the price point and consumer first -> the wine quality creates repeat purchase
Average consumer - 35-55 years old, wants to be a part of something and can relate to the story of the 19 Crimes
Snoop Dogg's partnership has brought in 200k new consumers into wine from beer and spirits
Augmented Reality
App has over 5M downloads
Started w/ both AR and virtual reality (VR) to tell the story of the brand
In 2017 - people didn’t want to put on the headset (VR) in-store but were okay downloading the app and AR took off
Created a 3d puppet of the person, animated it, and recorded lines
AR came a few years after the brand launch, was supposed to be a sales tool, but morphed into a consumer thing
Consumer awareness - QR code on bottle to download the app, invested in POS displays and in-store marketing, some screens in aisles
People scanned and download the app while in the aisle
Success factors - instant gratification, people shared it and it went viral, good shareability, great creativity, and simple
Requires ongoing investment in the app - e.g. - built ability to record in-app
Usage goes up during holidays (people like to share it) or the launch of a new SK
Launching AR
Easier now w/ web AR - can just do through camera phone vs needing an app
Improving Wine Communication w/ Madeline Puckette, Wine Folly
09 Mar 2022
00:48:10
Using her background in graphic design and inability to read large blocks of text, Madeline Puckette, Co-Founder and Content Director of Wine Folly, has transformed wine communication using infographics and other writing methods to enable wine discovery for more people. What started as a content marketing strategy for a planned wine club, Wine Folly has become one of the core landing sites for wine globally and an essential resource for wine beginners in their wine journey. Here about the journey, the business, and the future with Global Wine Database.
If you love the show, please consider supporting us on Patreon.
Detailed Show Notes:
Madeline’s background
Grandfather got into wine through mail order and reading
Dad bought a wine subscription to K&L Wine Merchants when she was 21 (in 2004) at art school, which got her into wine and provided her “Aha!” wine moment - a Cotes du Rhone that didn’t taste like fruit but like black olives
She was a musician and a graphic designer
After she lost her job in 2009, she helped out at a wine bar which exposed her to more wine
Did the Ruinart Challenge competition in San Francisco and got runner up on a Chardonnay blind tasting
Has been growing rapidly recently (~60k followers in Jan 2022)
Need consistency of content to do well - 1 piece/week would be ideal
Wine is challenging on YouTube to create a digestible format because wine is just in your glass. It’s all in your head -> success might be more about personality
With an outsider's perspective, Jason Wise, director of the SOMM movies and founder of SOMM TV, has been able to find stories in the world of wine that interest a broad audience. In order to control more of the content pipeline and how the shows are distributed, Jason founded SOMM TV. Using "Somm" as more of a curator, SOMM TV has wine at its core and covers food, travel, and other alcohol, making it appealing to a broad (and younger) audience. Learn more about the business of wine films in this episode of XChateau!
If you love the show, please consider supporting us on Patreon.
Detailed Show Notes:
Jason's background
Former bartender, went to film school, started as a filmmaker
He got into wine because he loves history, there were lots of stories that he could make films about, and his (now) wife's father loves wine, and he wanted to impress him
The wine industry was ready for something like the movie
Not a "wine film," a different way of looking at wine
Introduced a new group of people who can tell you what to drink (vs. magazines)
Documentaries became popular with Netflix
Not made by wine people, the outsider perspective made it enjoyable to outsiders
Wine needs storytelling
Other wine films
SOMM 2 - a" "wine fil"", SOMM 3 - the" "bullshit facto"" of wine, SOMM 4 - more history driven
Auction 288 (to be released June 2022) - a movie about a bottle of 1874 Perrier-Jouët Champagne, more of a history, business story
Media business model
Movies usually have a distributor
Theaters are a big marketing arena for wine
iTunes - make a % of revenue
Netflix
pays distributor a fixed fee, if put on the 1st page can reach millions of people
Often pays based on what it costs to make
Can own rights outright or rent the film
Amazon - get paid 6+ months after it's up and receive a minimal cut of incremental revenue
YouTube - doesn't make any money on
Created SommTV to control more steps in the business model - more control of content pipeline, partnerships, place to premiere new films (e.g., SOMM 4)
Before Covid - events were a big part of the business
Media platforms
Hulu - Jason's favorite, takes the most significant swings in content
Stars - has the best movies
Netflix - very careful, content is very similar to each other; often licenses something then makes their own version if it works (e.g., Uncorked is a similar series to Somm)
Cost of making films
Big range - SOMM 2 ~$100k vs. ~$850k for another wine film made by someone else
Documentaries - can be millions, when there's real music, at least $500k
Do not pay people usually to be in the film
SommTV business model
Employees on salary, which is unusual in film
90% original content
It started with originals, now trying to license other content
Focused on wine, food, and alcohol; food is going to be a big part
Started the streaming service because it's an underserved audience and wanted to super-serve them
Content pipeline - would ideally love to have new content every day
Hundreds of thousands of subscribers (as of Jan 2022) - believes the potential audience is in the millions" "Som" is defined by Jason as someone who curates - wine at the center, but food, travel, etc…surrounding it
Pricing - $6/month, $50/year
Did a series of testing to determine pricing
Current entertainment content wars - other services are losing money to add subscribers (except for HBO Max)
Lower cost doesn't necessarily mean more subscribers
Technology - a mix of own developed and 3rd party apps, goal is to bring technology in-house
SommTV subscribers
Younger, usually 24-37 years old (~70%), middle class
Screenings/events - more varied audience
52% male, 48% female - women growing fast
Key markets - US largest by far, UK, Brazil, Nordic countries (not allowed in Iran or China)
Crafting Wines for Consumers w/ Nicholas Hammeken, Hammeken Cellars
16 Feb 2022
00:42:42
Having studied what was important to wine consumers working at Oddbins, a British wine retailer, Nicholas Hammeken, Founder and Director of Innovation at Hammeken Cellars, founded a company focused on crafting Spanish wines that match consumer preferences. He develops concepts with unique selling propositions, plays to modern tastes, and tries to be an ambassador of affordable luxury. Nicholas tells us all about how he thinks through creating the concept, developing the product, and bringing the wines to market globally.
If you love the show, please consider supporting us on Patreon.
Detailed Show Notes:
Nicholas’ background
Danish-born, cellar master, worked at Taste of Wine in Denmark
Worked in the Mosel (Germany), Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Penedes (Cava, Spain)
Worked at Oddbins in the UK - where he learned about consumer preferences
Fell in love w/ Spain and moved there when his wife got a job there
Hammeken Cellar Overview
Spanish wine in the 1990’s - a little rustic, but could taste the tremendous potential
Motto - “modern Spanish wines…developed through an understanding of consumers needs” -> want to respect the history of the region, but take data to match to consumer preferences
Based in Valencia
Winemakers live in different parts of Spain
Exports 1.5M cases to 30 countries
Historically strong in Scandinavia
Germany and Holland are big markets, US and Canada are important, while Asia has been consistent with Japan being strong for many years
China rising as wine consumption growing (vs. gifting of wine)
In 2021 - 50% of production are organic wines, sustainability is an important trend for Hammeken
Consumer preferences by market
Europe - like a more lean style
US - prefers riper, more bold style
Often the style preferences match with the profile of local cuisine
Wines have a base element and then have components to fine-tune the wines for specific markets
Organic trend
N Europe was the driving force, particularly the monopoly markets, which gave distribution preference for organic wines
US/Europe now more aligned with regulations on organic wines
to mine macro and micro consumer trends (e.g., organic product trend)
Used to support decision making
Does other consumer research - “lots of reading” - real all magazines, including grocery store magazines
Importance of the story -> need to have a purpose of the product, more USPs (unique selling propositions) -> e.g., where does the product come from (i.e., sense of place, which gives traceability), winemaker, etc. -> something apart from a pretty label
Wants to be an ambassador of affordable luxury, $9.99 or $11.99 wines that taste and feel like $14.99 wines
Packaging - requires a lot of trial and error to test
The more exclusive products tend to look more straightforward and more elegant
Scale buying power allows for lower costs for high-end closures, packaging
Uses repeat buying to measure success - Mirada is seeing steady increases year over year in sales
Wines mostly have a DO/DOC designation - they need to taste like the region, but in a modern way
Finding new names - “a major headache” - legal names for the US, Europe, and Asia has become a lot more complex than ten years ago
Creating the wine
The company is asset-light, leverage other people’s facilities
Go for a more modern, fresh style of wine
Once they have a clear idea of what they want to do, they search for vineyards
Try to source from a diverse set of vineyards to reduce nature risk (e.g., hail)
Old vines are key -> gives a more unique expression, more balanced fruit
Have their own winemakers, but rent facilities
Vineyard sourcing a mix of long-term rentals, short term agreements, and spot market purchases at harvest
Have a contract agronomist to direct grape growing
Go-to-market (“GTM”) Strategy
Link up with partners, people who want to be first movers on the product
Often have a dialogue in place before developing new concepts
Target markets
For new concepts - test in smaller markets
For clear ideas - go for 3-5 markets to have volume from the beginning
Keys for product placements
Monopoly markets - can lobby for 2-3 years to provoke a tender that you’ve helped define (therefore more likely to wine)
3rd party endorsement is important (e.g., critic ratings)
Critic ratings big in US / Canada initially, but rest of the world has followed -> important because some buyers are risk-averse
Asia - likes to see success in other markets first
Marketing & Promotion
Social media is important
Need to invest for products on the shelves
More important channels - product placement (the right place at the right price point), then a mix of endorsement with points and price proposition (e.g., discounts) can drive more significant sales
E.g., LCBO (largest buyer in the world) - showed them a gap in their portfolio (mix of packaging, style, and price point) and was willing to invest in promotions to be successful
Wine critic influence
American media (e.g., Wine Enthusiast, Robert Parker, Wine Spectator, James Suckling) strong in US / Canada, but also have a global influence
Decanter - more important outside the US
Jancis Robinson - w/ 20 point score, need $25+ bottles for consumers to understand what this means
Brand lifecycle
Most brands are regional stars, a few work worldwide
Lifecycle is usually 3-5 years
Product segments get overcrowded and make the brand lose market share
Signal of downtrend - when the effectiveness of promotion falls
Corporate Social Responsibility
Try to allow consumers to make an active choice, e.g., I’m Your Organic and planting a tree
Uses Goodwings to offset the carbon footprint of corporate travel
Wants to do a detailed mapping of CO2 footprint of product production and use this as a tool to educate wine buyers
High Altitude Luxury w/ Anita Correas & Gustavo Hormann, Kaiken
19 Feb 2025
00:44:46
With the recent launch of a new $300 retail icon wine, Boulder, Kaiken continues to explore the potential for luxury wines from Argentina. Building on the last 15 years of Kaiken's other icon wine, Mai, Anita Correas, Commercial Director, and Gustavo Hormann, Director of Winemaking, discuss the global market for luxury Argentinian wines, how they approach launching them, and the brand-building impacts for the Kaiken brand.
Detailed Show Notes:
Kaiken background
Founded in 2002 by Aurelio Montes (Chile)
"Kaiken" is the name of a wild goose that crosses between Chile & Argentina
Exports to 60 countries
Winery in Vistalba, Mendoza (28ha), vineyards in Agrelo (60ha) & Los Chacayes, Uco Valley (150ha)
60% on-premise
Frances Mallmann restaurant at the winery
Recently launched new luxury tier/icon wine - "Boulder"
$300 retail price, 3,700 bottles
Developed over the last 10 years
Unique 3ha block in Los Chacayes due to overflow of Arroyo Grande, full of big rocks/boulders
Malbec (64%), Cabernet Franc (28%), Petit Verdot (8%)
Boulder launch plan
Launched in Buenos Aires, Hong Kong, Korea, Brazil (São Paulo, Argentina's #2 export country), US
Brazil's event had a more direct impact on sales
Mostly press/trade events that are smaller, in-person
Likely less on-premise than Kaiken overall, more hand-selling to collectors and Michelin Star restaurants
VR w/ Google Glass to see the vineyard up close and go inside the soil has gotten positive feedback, but it is more expensive than a regular video (required 3 days of video shoots and a special camera)
Mai - prior icon wine
$100 retail price, 12,000 bottles
Launched in 2009 from a 120-year-old vineyard
Marketing more "maintenance" now
2021 - redesigned packaging, got 98 pts and Top 100 from Suckling
Primarily sold in Argentina, then UK, US, Brazil, Japan
70% of Argentinean wine is consumed domestically, delaying the need for exports
Average export ~40% higher price than Chile (export-focused market, ½ the population, 2x wine production vs Argentina)
More high-end wineries in Argentina vs ~5 in Chile
>$100 market for Argentine wine - "not a huge market"
Big domestic market - much of Mai, Boulder sold domestically
Consumers looking at super high-end often do not look at the country of origin but more at the concept of the wine
Value Prop for Argentine luxury wine - not influenced by oceans, high altitude, dessert wines, driven by the Andes
Return on Boulder is more than sales, but brand building for Kaiken
Focused on relationships with importers
Want long-term relationships as they represent the brand globally
Reach collectors through import partners
Has affiliated importer in Argentina
Montes relationship
Was helpful on launch to piggyback on Montes brand
Now Kaiken is more independent and only shares importers in a few countries (it used to have the same ones)
Kaiken Ultra ($26) awarded Wine Spectator Top 100 (#30, highest Argentine wine)
Wine drinkers can graduate from Ultra to Mai and others
Kaiken's focus for each range of wines is to over-deliver for the price point vs linking the wines
Good press in 2024 for Kaiken - #1 New World Winery from Sommelier Awards, Boulder rated best Argentinian red blend by Patricio Tapai (wine critic), Estate Malbec was Wine Spectator's best value wine
An ongoing trend and a topic that crisscrossed many of our interviews on XChateau, the natural wine movement got a formal designation in March of 2020. It specifies a set of vineyard and winery practices to qualify for the designation. We discuss the potential challenges of implementing the designation and the potential impacts on producers, retailers, and consumers.
This episode originally aired in May of 2020. To access the rest of our library, become a Patreon supporter, as we’ll soon be making most back episodes only available to our Patreon supporters.
Detailed Show Notes:
New definition and denomination for natural Wine in France - Vin Methode Nature (March 2020)
Requirements: organically farmed, hand-harvested, indigenous yeast, no inputs added, no manipulations to the wine (e.g., - thermovinification, reverse osmosis, flash pasteurization, cross-flow filtration)
Two levels of designation based on SO2 additions - 1 with no SO2 added, 1 with up to 30 mg/L of SO2 added
Before this, there was no formal definition for “natural wine” people often confused or used the term for organic and biodynamic farming or with using minimal intervention
Natural wine trend
Rise of natural wine bars, restaurants lists focused on natural wines, and natural wine stores/sections of retail stores
Entire natural wine fairs - e.g. - e.g. - RAW WINE
Specific books - e.g., Natural Wine by Isabelle Legeron MW
Challenges of the natural wine designation
It may be difficult to make adjustments in farming or in the winery when issues occur, which may be increasing with climate change
Hand harvesting may be challenging and even lower quality in regions with labor shortages (e.g., Australia, New Zealand)
Champagne - does not use native yeast for secondary fermentation in bottle and may not qualify
Burgundy - often doesn’t get organic certifications in vineyards due to weather challenges but strive for “lutte raisonnée” (the reasoned struggle)to reduce chemical inputs in the vineyard
US importers - to be labeled as “organic wine” in the US requires no added sulfur, which applies to only 1 of the 2 designations. Wines without sulfur additions may have stability issues when they shipped to the US
Natural wine retailers - consumers may find the designation confusing as some of their wines will be labeled “natural wine,” but others will not, requiring detailed knowledge of the winegrowing practices of all the wines on the shelf
Consumer perceptions
Product quality is critical, especially at the higher end
Studies have shown people will be ~$3/bottle more for organic wine, which is a ~30% increase on ~$8/bottle average price point
Consumers assume fine wines are a natural product and may find the labeling confusing
Vegans - egg whites and isinglass (a type of fish bladder) are sometimes used as processing aids for wines (a process called fining) but are not ingredients - may find the designation useful
Kosher WineWine - can not be labeled natural as flash pasteurization is not allowed
Making Wine Approachable w/ Mark Warren & Tom Beaton, FitVine
02 Feb 2022
00:53:03
Wondering why there was only beer and spirits but no wine at Crossfit events and races, Mark Warren and Tom Beaton, Founders of FitVine, decided to start their own brand. With a goal of making wine more transparent and approachable, FitVine aims to “fit into your lifestyle.” At the $15-20/bottle price point, FitVine is bringing more Gen X and Millennials into the wine category with wine that tastes good and takes away the stuffy image of the wine industry.
If you love the show, please consider supporting us on Patreon.
Detailed Show Notes:
Mark and Tom’s background
Met ~20 years ago, both in the tech industry and entrepreneurs
They have always been into wine
Both former athletes got into Crossfit 2 decades ago at events. They saw spirits and beer but no wine and asked, “why isn’t wine part of an active lifestyle?”
FitVine’s founding
At $15/bottle - many wines are overprocessed
Target a “healthy” lifestyle, and the word “fit” means how does wine fit into your lifestyle?
Want to have a positive impact on people’s lives - relieve stress
Market segment
Initially thought they were targeting the athletes, but quickly learned it was the significant others at the races & events, the “aspirational group” that wanted to make better choices that were FitVine’s customers
Gen X “yoga mom/dad,” Millennials M/F both increasing
DTC business has customers from early ’20s to late ’70s
The segment is ~85-100M Americans
FitVine vs. “Clean Wine” - try to be careful and not knock other wines
Focused on 90% of the wine market and what people are drinking with an average ~$15/bottle price point
Trying to establish a “go-to” brand people can trust and remove confusion for people without wine knowledge
Marketing
Targeting the average consumer who’s not wine knowledgeable and intimidated by wine
Trying to be more transparent and make it easier for the consumer
Have nutritional breakdown for all wines
Publishes calories, carbohydrates, sugar, alcohol
TTB stopped their ability to add more nutritional information (e.g., resveratrol, etc.) because it might show it as a healthy product
Does full lab tasting on all wines and have done competitor lab testing as well - sometimes show summary statistics (e.g., 90% less sugar than the Top 10 wines on the market)
They took tasting notes away not to confuse the average consumer
Start with the wine first, then discuss the positive attributes of the wines
Wine often marketed as too “stuffy,” makes it intimidating
Want to change the approach, a higher level of YellowTail - which was easy and popular in the $5-8/bottle category
At $15-20, more of an investment, wine needs to be good
Primary differentiation is transparency - there are no more faces to the big brands/wine companies, the last one was Jess Jackson
Want to be very approachable - no beige chateau or river on the label
Products
Low in sugar but “full” alcohol
People want the alcohol in wine
Alcohol also impacts the taste of wine - de-alc’d wine often tastes “thin”
Low in tannins and histamines
Tannins can be added, but none for FitVine
High tannins are not suitable for non-seasoned wine drinkers looking for approachable wine
No flavor additives (e.g., Mega Purple) or other additives
“Triple Filtering” of wine - uses crossflow filtration that passes through 3 times (standard crossflow process)
Wines are not bulk wines, controlled from grape to bottle
Mostly Lodi fruit, sustainably raised with no pesticides
Production
2021 - ~425k cases
2022 - ~600k cases
Go-to-market strategy
Started DTC only
Started with social media
Went anywhere, people would let them pour wine (e.g., yoga studios, gyms, etc.)
Gave out samples and postcards to drive to the website
2021 - still did >5,000 events
Went consumer first vs. pushing through distributors - Whole Foods called in 2016 - brought into retail in 2017 (started w/ 4-5 stores, then spread across the US)
2022 - will be in 25,000 locations in the US, ~35,000 in 2023
Now focused on grocery stores and delivery (e.g., Instacart, Drizly, GoPuff)
Strong repeat buying
DTC offers limited-run varietals, which allows the testing of new SKUs before distribution
DTC has stayed level (now <10% of business), wholesale has seen significant growth
2017 - had a contract with the Boston Red Sox, created single-serve 187ml glass
Did well, but with a multi-layered business model, was not the best use of marketing investment
Wine industry trends to watch
The Low or No alcohol wine category is challenging
Need a different approach to educate consumers
Give people more transparency around what’s in the bottle
Give people more information in small, easy to understand chunks
Growth of canned wine - believes due to being more approachable
The Cleanliness of Clean Wine w/ Erik Segelbaum, SOMLYAY
26 Jan 2022
00:45:31
Ever been curious about the claims people make about “clean wines”? In the same camp as “natural wines” and “better for you wines,” clean wines have no definition and often deploy misleading marketing to get you to buy their wines. They take advantage of the trend, particularly with Millenials, around a healthy lifestyle and spread misinformation in their marketing, according to sommelier and wine educator Erik Segelbaum. Explore the rationale behind the clean wine trend and how to read into their marketing messages on this episode of XChateau!
Don’t forget - you can support the show on Patreon to help us keep bringing you excellent wine business content!
Clean wine claims are not false but spreading misinformation and are “lying by omission”
E.g., all wines are gluten-free
Vegan - sometimes animal products (e.g., egg whites) are used in fining but not really put into wine
Organic - does not mean any chemicals, just no synthetic chemicals (e.g., sulfites are organic and a good thing - required to make wine otherwise, nature turns grape juice into vinegar)
Additives - there can be bad ones (e.g., Velcorin, which is hazardous in large quantities, and Mega Purple, which adds color and sweetness)
Need to distinguish between “industrially produced wines” and “commercially produced”
Industrial wines are mainly on the bottom shelf of retail and are highly manipulated wines (e.g., use lots of additives)
Commercially produced can be well-produced wines, even at a commercial scale
Clean wine “obscures transparency”
They often manipulate where the wines are produced (e.g., don’t mention where the grapes are grown, only that they are produced and bottled in a specific place)
Targets naive consumers
An excellent example of transparency - Ridge Vineyards - has ingredient labeling and all relevant details on the label
Selection and Differentiation in Grocery Wine w/ Curtis Mann MW, Albertson’s
19 Jan 2022
00:34:44
Grocery stores are one of the biggest sales channels for wine. Curtis Mann, Group Vice President of Alcohol of the Albertson’s Companies, gives us the inside scoop on buying trends, how to sell into Albertson’s, and the rise of the use of digital. Learn about the dynamics of the grocery wine market and what makes Albertson’s “locally great, nationally strong.”
Don’t forget - you can support the show on Patreon to help us keep bringing you great wine business content!
Wine is a key element of business - it drives sales and customer loyalty; some customers come to stores because of the wine selection
Some stores have up to 3,000 wine SKUs
Stores with more premium selections are correlated with location (high socio-economic demographics) vs. by grocery store brand
Focus is more on the “premium” price segment ($9+ based on IRI)
Top brands - Barefoot, Kendall Jackson, up-and-coming brands - Butter, Josh, but wine is very diversified. Big brands are still a small part of the market
Premiumization helping imports, including New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
Wine buying trends
Consumers are called to authenticity - they want to know what’s in their wine, the appellation, sustainability, and organic
Convenience - cans, seltzer, ready to drink
Premiumization - $10-20/bottle, $30-50/bottle, up to $100/bottle (e.g., high-end Bordeaux, Napa Cabernet) ranges all doing well, some categories accelerating with potential out-of-stocks
Covid trends - return to cooking, consumers go to Albertson’s as a one-stop-shop
With restaurants reopening, a little bit of regression in sales, but still robust as cooking at home has been sticky
Customer demographics (for wine)
Gen X / Baby Boomers - still buying a lot (more in bulk and volume), but less than before
Millennials are the new customers - buying more, less loyal to wine vs. other drinks, and have less expendable income; their preferences are different from Gen X and Baby Boomers
To meet the changing demographics, Curtis looks forward 3-5 years to develop his shelf set/selections of wine
Considerable diversity of reasons people buy wine - occasion based purchasing (e.g., going to a party)
Many people exploring and learning about wine (proof point - the massive increase in people taking WSET classes, including lots of consumers, not just professionals)
Promotions / discounting
Limited brand loyalty in wine, customers often default to price
Given that, promotions are pretty important
We need to work between price and product to optimize sales and not over-rely on price
Wine selection
What does it mean to customers? Each wine must have a purpose vs. the other ~1,500 SKUs on the shelf
This could be style, story, or location/appellation
Want to remove redundancy on the shelf
Tagline - ‘locally great, nationally strong’; try to give local stores more voice (e.g., Portland stores have more Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs)
With a vision to democratize wine for every wine drinker in the US, Underground Cellar’s founder and CEO Jeffrey Shaw and COO Jeff Hardy are focused on building a unique and disruptive platform for buying wine. Leveraging gamification principles, Underground Cellar gives you upgrades to the wines you buy, giving customers access to more expensive and rare wines. This has expanded into free wine storage in their Cloud Cellar, which they hope to build more community and a trading platform around. Dig into how it got started, the value proposition for wineries, and where they are going in this episode of XChateau! Underground Cellar offers listeners a discount code for $100 off your first purchase of $150 or more with promo code: XChateau at undergroundcellar.com.
Like what you hear? If you’d like to support us in bringing you the best content on the wine business, become a patron at Patreon.
Detailed Show Notes:
Jeffrey Shaw’s background
Fell in love with wine in college, wine tasting, etc.
Had a small exit with his first company and wanted to do something in wine
Started 6 companies simultaneously (based on a statistic that 5 out of 6 companies fail in the 1st year) to find 1 to focus on, dropped the rest after 90 days except for Underground Cellar
The goal is to “democratize” the wine experience and convert wine drinkers to wine collectors for life
Jeff Hardy’s background
Tech background, worked at Google and Yahoo!, building smaller startups focused on small and medium-sized businesses
Underground Cellar’s model
Curate wines into collections (e.g., Napa Valley Cabernet)
People don’t buy specific bottles, but into a collection with different price point wines
50% or more of the bottles you buy are upgraded to more expensive bottles
Cloud Cellar - everyone can store up to 500 bottles for free
Upgrade determination
an algorithm helps determine the number of upgrades
Focus on lifetime value received as a customer
Goal to “democratize” wine
Three elements of wine that can be democratized - knowledge, money, and relationships/access
Underground Cellar tries to educate in easy to understand, more approachable ways
Upgrading allows customers to experience higher levels of wine
Ability to source some scarce, valuable, and hard to find wines enables access to these wines
Target market = everyone
Wine aficionados - enticed by the rare wines available (e.g., the signed bottle of Screaming Eagle)
New wine drinkers - want great value, like the process of being upgraded
Wine lovers building collections - want variety for their collections, which is inherent in the collections
Supplier benefits
Wines are never discounted
Underground Cellar can buy small lots of wine
Can buy less popular varietals, etc.
Promotes the brand and story on social media (~12k followers on Instagram) and email (~250,000 email subscribers) => wineries have said that foot traffic and sales spike after being featured
Cloud Cellar
Get unlimited duration storage for 500 bottles for free
Let’s people buy wine when they usually couldn’t due to weather/shipping constraints or for space/storage constraints
85% of customers use Cloud Cellar, most storing ~1 case - most customers use it to buy wine at any time
Future: people can start to trade with one another on the platform
Marketing channels
Use social media, direct mail, radio
#1 channel has been direct referrals - people like to share their upgrade stories
Offers a “Give $50, get $50” referral program
Future: the potential to add wine as a reward in Cloud Cellar, similar to Robinhood referrals where you get one share of stock
Sommelier turned wine consultant turned online wine retailer. Thatcher Baker-Briggs, Founder of Thatcher’s Wine Consulting, has continued to evolve and expand his presence, helping clients drink better and navigate some of the intricacies of Burgundy and other fine and geeky wines. He tells us about his journey, how email responsiveness is a competitive advantage, and how he believes some of the distribution allocations of top European wineries need to adapt to where the demand is. An engaging and insightful episode of XChateau!
Don’t forget - you can support the show on Patreon to help us keep bringing you excellent wine business content!
Detailed Show Notes:
Thatcher’s background
He started cooking at 10, worked in restaurants, was in the kitchen for ten years
Pursued sommelier route, spent time in Japan, came back to SF to work w/ Saison Hospitality
Helped collectors to manage the world of Burgundy and expanded from there
Launched a small, online boutique website pre-Covid
Has both an importer and retailer license (possible in California)
Import focus is on 1st and 2nd generation winemakers, often younger (in their 20s and 30s)
Wine Consulting
It started when a regular guest at the restaurant asked for personal wine consulting
He had to rely on other retailers, which was challenging for some short turnaround needs, and built a small inventory of products, which got put online for the retail arm
Clients are on an annual retainer basis - annual necessary to set goals for the cellar and wine education
Initial clients came from personal relationships
New clients are mostly through existing client referral
You don’t need a lot of clients to be successful and cap the client base so that each client can get enough attention
He doesn’t source exclusively from TWC retail but from a variety of sources
Challenges with wine consulting business - dealing with an old school wine world, inventory management, logistics of getting wine, and communicating “no” to collectors can be challenging
Wine Retail
Differentiation - wines highly curated by the team
Ability to source wines due to decades of experience and relationships with importers and retailers from sommelier experiences
Sourcing rare wine is complex, as often wines can’t be fully authenticated - TWC usually takes a very conservative approach, e.g., buys DRC only with a Wilson Daniels back label and from an original buyer
Essential to work with importers who are investing in building wine brands
General importer margin - cost converted to local currency, 1.5x the cost plus a couple dollars/bottle for transportation
Some importers take too high margins on hard to find wines, which leads TWC to need to source directly from Europe
TWC doesn’t undercut the market not to upset other wine merchants
European wine distribution is often flawed and challenging, creating market dislocations
E.g., Raveneau - has low ex-domaine pricing, the wine immediately sells out, the family makes a great living, and doesn’t require work, but may have more wine in Switzerland than in the US where it sells for multiples higher
Wineries often are small businesses without a lot of people working there
Nicolas Faure example - sells so cheaply ex-domaine that people buy everything upon release, primarily other retailers buying to resell for much higher levels
Adaptation: 2021, a Year of Re-Opening, Wine Pricing, and Clean & Natural Wine
23 Dec 2021
01:05:52
2021. A year with big expectations. The re-opening of economies around the world with Covid vaccines in distributions instead led to fits and starts with the Delta and Omicron variants. Wine pricing and costs went through gyrations with the tariffs between the EU and US imposed and then lifted and supply chain disruptions creating both cost and availability issues. And clean and natural wines continued to become a broader topic amongst wine consumers and the trade who struggle with their definitions and impact. XChateau assembled a panel across the wine value chain (Producer - Diana Snowden Seysses of Snowden Vineyard and Domaine Dujac; Importer - Xavier Barlier of MMD; Distributor - Michael Papaleo of Banville Wine Merchants; Retailer - Kyle Meyer of The Wine Exchange; and Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW of The Wine Advocate) to discuss these issues and answer audience questions live on Clubhouse. A wide-ranging and captivating conversation!
Also, people have asked us how they can support the show. So, we recently launched on Patreon, where your contributions will help keep the wine business content flowing!
Distributor perspective - Michael Papaleo, VP of Sales at Banville Wine Merchants, an importer and distributor focused on the New York, New Jersey, and Mid-Atlantic region
Retailer perspective - Kyle Meyer, Managing Partner of The Wine Exchange, a leader wine retailer in Orange County, California
Wine Critic / Reviewer perspective - Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Editor-in-Chief of Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate for the last 13 years
Topic: Re-opening from Covid
Diana - producers in Napa and France weren’t required to close. Their biggest concern was keeping employees safe
Mike - learned how to conduct non-in-person sales (online and on the phone) by creating compelling content and using humor to find ways to engage accounts
Luxury wines did well - the average case price pre-pandemic was $136/case; increased by $30/case
On-premise recovered, but not all the way - 2019 - 55% on-premise, 2020 - 27% on-premise, 2021 - 44% on-premise
Collectors who were drinking through their wines started re-filling their cellars
Banville Wine Merchants was able to expand through the crisis (headcount went from 12 salespeople in 2020 to 16 in 2021, with 21 expected in 2022)
Kyle - 2020 Q2/3 - online orders went up dramatically - people bought everything
2020 Q4 - needed more inventory, supply chain issues created lack of access that persisted into 2021
A lot of people are now comfortable buying wine online, do to a big pick up business
75% of sales online pre-Covid, now 85-90%
2021 felt more normal, like 2018 (2019 had issues w/ tariffs, etc.)
Xavier - MMD’s luxury portfolio was positioned mainly towards on-premise
Pivoted to off-premise (e.g., high-end Safeway stores in Los Angeles)
Champagne shortages in 2021 - Roederer is sold out, pricing of Champagne is higher than it was before, bubbly is more popular than ever
Lisa - The Wine Advocate piggybacked on the success of online wine sales -> web views were up 10x vs. pre-Covid, subscriptions showed strong growth, but not as much as web views
Events had to be canceled in 2020, tastings re-factored, including re-packaging wines into little bottles for tastings
Pulled off some events (e.g., Kings of Rhone, Bordeaux 2010)
End of 2021 - lots of Zoom fatigue, people want in-person events, but push for smaller events (e.g., masterclasses, dinners) to avoid large groups
Hope to keep some virtual events in the future w/ hybrid elements
Xavier - used to have to travel a lot before, pivoting to virtual staff training in the B2B context in 2021 was more efficient and convenient
Topic: Inflation / Wine Pricing
Kyle - some prices have gone up, but more steady than expected
CA prices are going up because of the light 2020 vintage (fires)
Bordeaux 2020 releases prices much higher
Burgundy - pretty steady pricing with slight increases
Germany - top producers are increasing prices as they were underpriced before
Xavier - w/ tariffs and increased shipping costs, MMD has tried to absorb the impact with their partners - sharing ⅓ producer/supplier, ⅓ importer/MMD, and ⅓ distributor
Mike - bought long on some products pre-tariffs, which helped through the first half of 2021
Did reduce some margins and tried not to pass on increased costs to customers
Some allocated Burgundy had to pass on cost increases
Lisa - people looked more at domestic wines than usual, specifically 2018 and 2019 Napa wines, primarily because of 2020 fires and short vintage
Bordeaux 2020 is a lot higher pricing than 2019, even with a less consistent vintage
Diana - had supply chain issues pre-Covid, including a glass shortage (as only river sand can be used, not desert sand)
Have learned to order early to deal w/ shortages (e.g., glass, labels, capsules)
Facing labor shortages globally
Wineries have absorbed increased costs of glass and corks
Topic: Clean & Natural Wines
Lisa - there is no definition of clean wine. It’s just a marketing fabrication
Natural wine is a misleading term as well. It means different things to different people
Kyle - no one has asked for clean wine yet
Customer curiosity around natural wine, but people believe they are faulty wines (e.g., mercaptans, Brettanomyces)
Wine merchants need to educate consumers around these topics
Xavier - positive part of this trend is that it creates a conversation around wine
Diana - need to educate consumers around sustainability. It’s positive that people are worried about the climate and sustainability. If there’s no definition of the term, it becomes greenwashing
Audience Questions:
Matthew - how do you best educate, communicate organic sources, and implement sustainable practices without greenwashing?
Lisa - be very honest about what you’re doing
Kyle - make them “a” point vs. “the” point, the wine should be “the” point, make the best wine you can
Ziad - how is the wine sector coping with climate change?
Lisa - need to live w/ extreme events (e.g., wildfires, water shortages) more frequently, all over the world
Xavier - Piemonte & Champagne have benefitted from climate change, and some have adapted winemaking; e.g., Louis Roederer has evolved their Brut Premier multi-vintage wine to “Collection 242,” a new multi-vintage wine that will have a unique number and release each year as the wine is now based around a single vintage
Diana - there are two conversations - one on adaptation and one on decelerating climate change through GHG emission reductions
Adaptation - France has to deal with frost issues, especially in Burgundy, Napa has drought and heat
Becoming a Wine Retail Institution w/ Phil Bernstein, MacArthur Beverages
15 Dec 2021
00:40:35
An early mover focusing on fine wine, Bordeaux and California futures, and becoming a dual importer/retailer, Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages has become a wine institution in Washington DC. Phil Bernstein, General Manager of the brick & mortar wine retail store and importer, tells us about how he thinks about wine pricing, direct importing wines, the changes in consumer buying patterns, and more as we continue to delve into the future of wine retail.
Detailed Show Notes:
Phil’s background
He grew up in Long Island, played Trumpet, and pursued a career as a professional trumpet player
He ended up begging for a part-time job at a retail shop in Ann Arbor, MI, and got his start in wine
Used to have tastings every Sat in-store to drive foot traffic
People now do curbside pick up after ordering online
Does a lot of DC area delivery (can only legally deliver in DC, not nearby suburbs in MD or VA)
Physical store for wine retail - “nothing beats the human interaction”
Pricing for wine retail - “price is everything”
Believes that price often trumps customer loyalty
Looks at wine-searcher.com when pricing wine, having the best price on wine-searcher meaningfully drives sales
Used to do a standard markup with a case discount, but believes now having the best price upfront is key
“Reliability” for MacArthurs is good customer service
Take care of the wine (temp control, only ship when weather is good)
Never makes vintage substitutions
Always makes good on promises, even if they end up losing money on the sale
Both an importer and a retailer
Only possibly in DC and CA in the US
Can buy Bordeaux direct from negociants
Have access to more fine wine from overseas
Can cut out the middle man - improving profitability and reducing the price to the customer
Finding their wines to direct import - have exclusivity, mostly locally
Imports 6-7 full 50ft containers a year
Not allowed to sell to other distributors or retailers
~60% of business from wholesalers, ~40% imported
Believes more importers will sell direct over time
Bordeaux Futures/En Primeur
The value of it can vary a lot by campaign
The only way for it to work is for wines expected to either be sold out or at higher prices when the wines are released for customers to tie up their money
In most years, En Primeur only works for the top 50-75 wines, which doesn’t make sense for most Petit Chateau
2019 campaign - Bordelais knew people couldn’t taste during En Primeur due to Covid, Pontet Canet and Angelus came out early with low prices and set the tone - lots of interest and buying
2020 campaign - “somewhat of a dud,” Bordelais took prices back up to between 2018 and 2019 levels
California Futures
Starting to go away from this model
In the early 1980s (pre-internet), set up barrel tasting of CA wine producers, people could taste the wines and order futures at a discount
Driving Personalization in Wine Retail w/ Addie Wallace, Wine.com
08 Dec 2021
00:41:44
As the largest wine e-commerce site globally, Wine.com has been a leader in leveraging technology to sell wine. Addie Wallace, Director of Brand Marketing, gives us insight into how wine.com leverages the marketing funnel to drive awareness and conversion, has built a differentiated offering online, and is pushing the boundaries of customization with their new personalized wine club Picked. There’s a lot to learn about the future of retail in this episode of XChateau!
Detailed Show Notes:
Addie’s background
She started her career in finance
In business school, led the Wine & Cuisine Society and created a wine recommendation app
Pitched Wine.com an idea to have a personalized wine club, which she launched
Manages brand, customer insights, and subscription businesses for Wine.com
Wine.com’s history
It started as evineyard.com in 1998
Acquired wine.com URL and brand in 2001 when original wine.com went bankrupt
Key milestones
The most extensive assortment of wine in the world, over 17,000 wines vs. ~2-3,000 in a typical wine store
Live chat functionality w/ sommeliers (started 6-7 years ago, one of the first to use the functionality) - replaces people in aisles helping you in a wine store
Building out physical presence - serves 42 states and DC, can reach 80% of customers in 2 days
Working on personalization
$355M in revenue in Fiscal Year 2021
E-commerce trends
Believes e-comm growth will continue, but not at the same pace in the pandemic
Pandemic showed people they could shop for wine online (built awareness)
2016 study - showed e-comm only ~3% of alcohol shopping
Wine.com core differentiators
Variety / selection - leads to continual discovery
Live chat - people are not commissioned, only there to help you find the best wines
Convenience - including StewardShip for free delivery
Personalization - with Picked, the personalized wine club, and building more personalization into the website
Marketing channels
Uses different channels for different parts of the marketing funnel
Top - get people to know the brand
Middle - get people familiar with how the brand is differentiated
Bottom - use promotions to get people to convert
Wine.com does a lot of digital advertising - social media, affiliate marketing, search, Google shopping
Each channel is effective for different customer needs
E.g., - Google Shopping - good for when customers are looking for something specific
Podcasts - for educating people that they can buy wine online and get them to shop at wine.com
Search/Google Shopping - has the largest # of eyeballs
High ROI - direct mail, the non-digital marketing Wine.com does
Discounting / coupons - help with getting customers to convert, promotions need to be structured to attract the right audience
Social media - has been challenging, changing regulatory landscape, privacy restrictions, and constantly changing algorithm, as well as lots of competitors using it makes it hard to be winning at it and need to evolve continually
Some marketing channels are hard to measure results - e.g., - print media (can use QR codes or promo codes to help track)
New channels - spending more time on podcasts, new social platforms (e.g.,- Snap, TikTok) don’t currently allow alcohol ads
StewardShip Program
It started as a free shipping program, for an annual fee (currently $59/year)
It gets consumers to shop more frequently
Becoming more comprehensive, like Amazon Prime, more perks to feed the wine lifestyle
e.g., - free tickets to events, both in-person and virtual (gave away 100 free tickets to James Suckling tasting events, 1:1 virtual tasting with the Gaja family)
Special promotions and early access to some wines
~60% of revenue is from members
Drives high retention rate for members
The annual fee pays for itself if you buy 2 cases/year
~$40/case, ~$30/6 bottles to ship normally
Picked - personalized wine club
Launched in 2020
Tell them wine preferences, get matched with a personal sommelier
Select 6 wines every 1-3 months
No two customers get the same thing
Leverage tech to make sommelier selections more manageable and more diverse, but lots of human judgement
The sommelier writes a personal note for the wines
One sommelier could theoretically support thousands of Picked customers
Club differentiation
Personal element
Selection - a lot of new discoveries
Only sell “real” wines, no private labels
Level of control/customization - price points, frequency, feedback, amount of red vs. white
Some overlap w/ StewardShip but primarily targets different segments
StewardShip - more self serve customers
Picked - people who want more help in selecting
Other wine.com personalization initiatives
Making the largest wine store curated just for you
Elevate recommendations and put them in context
Use prior purchase data, ratings, and if a wine was added to the shopping cart
User ratings
StewardShip members rate more frequently
Send emails to encourage ratings
Wine.com App - users more likely to rate
Picked members provide ratings to help personal somms
Leveraging technology to elevate the wine retail experience
Recommendation engines, email programs
Wine.com App - the store and wine encyclopedia in your pocket
Selling Rare Wine w/ Dave Parker, Benchmark Wine Group
01 Dec 2021
00:37:27
Beginning a series on the Future of Retail, we chat with Dave Parker, CEO of Benchmark Wine Group, on how he segments the retail wine market, the unique issues of rare wine, and emerging trends in the space. Listen in to learn about what regions are selling well, the importance of email marketing, a mobile-first mindset, and many other topics that will shape wine retail for the coming decade.
Was in high tech, bought a vineyard to be in the wine business originally
1998 - started Brentwood Wine Company in Oregon, the internet’s 1st online auction house (had challenges as Oregon requires ownership of product before auctioning it)
2002 -He started Benchmark Wine Group in California - CA allows someone to hold both retail and wholesale licenses
Wine Retail Landscape
Popular Wines - sold in grocery stores, consumers want something to have with dinner
Fine Wine - mostly current releases sold, buyers knowledge of wine and have brand loyalty
Rare Wine (where Benchmark specializes) is not generally available, either back vintages of fine wine or ultra scarce products sold only to allocation lists. The wines need to be able to age and often cost $100+/bottle.
Collectors and investors have deep knowledge of the wines, understand how they appreciate in value, and how well they age, but are also concerned about condition and authenticity
Rare Wine Trends
Used to be classified Bordeaux dominated the market
Burgundy has emerged and appreciated in value
Champagne has also solidified its spot
During US-EU wine tariffs on many EU wines (25%) - Champagne and Italy increased in demand (did not have tariffs)
Rhone and Spanish wines emerging over time
Largest rare wine markets in the US
CA and Tri-State area (NY, NJ, CT)
FL, TX, and IL are also large
Collectors in every state in the country
Sustainability becoming an essential topic across all consumer categories
Benchmark Wine Group - focuses on the rare wine market
Largest selection of rare wines, ~13,000 wines with ~100,000 bottles at any given time (~70-80% of wines come from private collections)
Provenance Guarantee - meticulous on how wines are inspected, and Benchmark handles all the transportation
Have on-staff sommeliers and salespeople to work with clients
Margins look more like a distributor than a retailer - have to take more risk around the ability to sell the wines and more specialized labor for inspection
Can ship to 45 states - transactions take place in CA, buyer technically ships wines to themselves
Benchmark vs. auction houses
Benchmark advantages - price certainty, immediate payment, prices often on the high end of auction prices
Auction disadvantages - no guarantee of sale, sale and payment could take months
Rare wine pricing
Also owns the Wine Market Journal - expert source for auction information, data from 1986, provides a baseline for selling price
Tracks sales from some large retailers
Wine-Searcher shows asking prices vs. selling prices
Technology & wine retail
Emerging trends - leveraging AI for label scanning and wine recommendations
In-person tastings to come back but still have virtual and hybrid experiences
Benchmark does “Raid Your Cellar” - where a sommelier talks to a winemaker
Creating a positive message for wine w/ Gino Colangelo, Come Over October
05 Feb 2025
00:29:37
With many macro headwinds for the wine world, Gino Colangelo, founder of Colangelo PR, felt the negative and often poorly fact-checked press around alcohol and health posed an existential threat. Teaming with Karen McNeil of The Wine Bible and fellow PR leader Kimberly Charles, they founded Come Over October, a campaign to create a positive narrative around wine. With freely available media assets and over 120 partners, the movement, in its first stretch, has shown the power of focusing on the positive elements of wine.
Detailed Show Notes:
Macro wine challenges include marijuana, Ozempic, and RTDs, but “no alcohol is healthy” messages from WHO and other gov’t organizations potentially pose an existential threat to the industry
Come Over October (“COO”) founding
Campaign to advocate for wine
Commission research - 60%+ 21-39-year-olds would change consumption if alcohol health guidelines changed, 60%+ participate in Dry January or Sober October (which equates to 17% of the year)
Karen McNeil, writer of The Wine Bible, got backlash over post against Dry January and ideated Come Over October
Kimberly Charles, owner of an SF wine PR firm, joined as co-founder
Started the company in spring 2024 (Come Together, a Community for Wine) as a mission-driven company to advocate for wine
Fundamental principles
Had to reach consumers
No negativity towards other alcoholic beverages
Involve everyone in the wine world
The goal for success: turning the narrative around wine positive (e.g., more articles on the social benefits of wine)
Measured by impressions of negative vs. positive articles about wine
In a battle for hearts and minds vs just getting the facts right
Asked for two things from partners
Modest check - $1-10k to pay for campaign, website, social media, media asset creation
Activation - use campaign assets (free to all) to run a COO campaign
Example activations
Total Wine - in-store signage, direct marketing, social media posts
Constellation Brands - bought in-store radio ads for 800 Kroger stores under the COO banner (promoting Kim Crawford, Meiomi, & The Prisoner with Karen McNeil doing voiceover) and reversed negative sales trends in stores
Jackson Family - free tasting, events, cash support for COO
Campaign success metrics
120 companies participated
>1,000 retail stores engaged (e.g., Kroger, Total Wine, Gary’s)
~$100k donated media (e.g., Wine Enthusiast, Vinepair, Wine Spectator)
Next Campaign - Spring 2025
Focus on the food message
Differentiate wine as food vs alcohol
Continue togetherness message
Bring in chefs, restaurants
Then roll back into October
Would like to hire a Director to run the company
Health debate
Loneliness epidemic - 30% of males don’t have close friends
Wine has a unique ability for positive wellness in bringing people together
Does the industry need a positive health message/research to turn things around truly? (e.g. - wine → better relationships / friendships → stress reduction → better health)
60 Minutes show on The French Paradox (1991) changed the wine world and led to 30+ years of growth
Not yet seeing health impacts of marijuana usage as it has only been legal recently
Maintaining Ex-Chateau Quality w/ Denis Houles and Erik Portanger, 1275 Collections
17 Nov 2021
00:49:55
Having experienced the difference in taste from wines sourced ex-chateau versus the secondary market, Denis Houles, CEO of 1275 Collections, is on a mission to create a new wine asset class of pristine conditions wines. Denis and Erik Portanger, Head of Strategy at 1275 Collections, tell us about the industry-wide issues around provenance, particularly with transportation and storage, and how 1275 leverages technology and direct chateaux relationships to build a solution to keep the wines as if they never left the chateaux.
Detailed Show Notes:
Denis’ background
He grew up in the south of France, fell in love with wine in Bordeaux
Believes in working in what you’re passionate about and founded Claret Club in 2003 - a private members club centered around wine, having chefs crafts food around the wine instead of vice versa
Erik’s background
A financial journalist for the Wall Street Journal in London was about to also write about personal passions, which was wine
He went to 1st Claret Club even in 2003 with Chateau Palmer and had his 1st wine epiphany
1275 Collections Overview
Fully documented, fully transparent way of collecting pristine wine from chateaux
Based in the freeport of Geneva - wines held in bond, no sales taxes until removed
Purchase directly from chateaux or negociant, sometimes get back vintages
“Internet of Bottles” - NFC chips with credit card grade security, for provenance and monitoring of temperature and humidity, pairs with a mobile app
Data per bottle and case, only tracked while in 1275’s control
Provenance: issues with storage and transportation
Provenance is more than just not being fake, but also how many hands the wine has passed through and storage conditions
Fine wine often moved between warehouses in trucks - often unrefrigerated
LVMH launched its own traceability platform called Aura
Octavian Vaults in the UK - requests for photos of bottles has increased ~30% each year for the last few years, highlighting the growing consumer awareness of strong provenance
Historically, the premium is meager - ~2-3% because most wines are bought and sold by traders
Premium increasing over time - auctions and library wines sold from chateaux selling for higher premiums
Traceability solutions
Pure tracking
Comprehensive - tracking and monitoring (temperature, humidity)
eProvenance is a B2B solution for wineries and importers
1275 Collections believes a fully traceable stock of wines will come
1275 believes wine damage from storage/handling is a more significant issue than counterfeit wines
Wine Storage
There is minimal research on the impacts of storage
The more researched area is the impact of transportation - road transportation is worse than cargo ships
Lack of transparency and accountability in the industry
Key things to track - temperature, temperature fluctuations (change pressure in the bottle), humidity, circulation of air (to prevent mold), lack of contaminants (free of bad smells) - mostly TCA
1275 Business Model
End-to-end solution for people who want a great wine collection, direct from estates with technology to have full traceability
Collections start at €25,000
2% annual management fee (includes sourcing, transportation, insurance, and storage)
For €100,000+ - a one-off advisory fee of €4,000 and lower management fees (1.4-1.8%)
Productivity and Community with Eric LeVine, CellarTracker
10 Nov 2021
00:43:27
Building the app while on sabbatical from Microsoft in 2003, Eric LeVine, CEO and founder of CellarTracker, had been close to a one-person show until recently. Yet, he’s built one of the most useful productivity tools for wine collectors, an engaged community of geeky wine lovers, and a respectable business that he’s now investing in to grow and take to new heights for the benefit of the CellarTracker community. Eric’s openness and candor provide an in-depth look at how one of the leading wine platforms was founded, built, and where it’s going next.
Detailed Show Notes:
Eric’s background
“Tech geek” to “wine geek”
He was at Microsoft from 1992 - 2005; his last project was the “send error report” feature
1999 - took a biking trip to Tuscany and fell in love with wine and started collecting
Built a tool to keep track of his cellar, then let a few friends use it, which morphed a personal spreadsheet into a relational database
Eric created CellarTracker while on sabbatical from Microsoft in 2003, then in April 2004, launched it publicly and left Microsoft a few months later
CellarTracker overview
Core element - a productivity tool to catalog and manage every aspect of the wine experience (e.g., purchasing, tracking, consuming)
Byproduct - “Yelp for wine” - the aggregated wisdom of the community from tasting notes, drinking windows
User base
10M unique people visit the site
~750k registered users
~300k active users
Wine database
4M wines created
135M bottles in cellars
9.1M tasting notes in the community + 1.3M professional tasting notes
Features and functions
Optical recognition of labels - partners with Vivino
Most used features - tasting notes (~10M visitors/year on the website, most people reading or researching the tasting notes; ~9.1M tasting notes growing ~750k / year / ~2k / day)
Features collectors use - what wines do they have, when do they want to drink them, what are wines worth (the main premium feature)
Wine valuations - partner with Wine Market Journal for appraisals, overlaid with what people are paying for the wines in CellarTracker
Drinking windows - updated by users, partnership with review publications to overlay their data for subscribers of their content
Surprise & Delight feature - the ability to print a restaurant-style wine list
Geekiest feature - can print unique barcodes for your bottles and use a scanner to check them in and out
Default mode - creates a unique barcode for each specific bottle
For restaurants - uses same code for each wine of a particular size
Conducted research into the wine collector space
~18M people in the US store wine at home / in a wine fridge
~10% awareness of CellarTracker in the US
~5-10% awareness of CellarTracker globally
Data analytics
They just hired the 1st data scientist several weeks ago (as of Oct 2021)
They haven’t done a lot to date
User ratings - can track/follow specific authors, most often used for older wines at auction as one of the only sources of data for older wines
Never specifically built tools to enhance “influencers” in the system, was anti “gamification” elements to incentivize people to write tasting notes
Data accuracy - has a team of 4 (some PT/ some FT) to curate the wine database and look for duplicates, use both automation and humans to have duplicate detection
Business model
“Voluntary Payment” - one of the early “Freemium” business models
Established this because the value of CellarTracker is in the active community, and the data it creates makes the platform more robust and valuable
Suggested payment based on the size of collection - avg ~$57/year
$40/year for <500 bottles
$80/year for 500-999 bottles
$160/year for 1,000+ bottles
The lowest payment is $20, and some pay thousands
The majority of revenue comes from this
Some ads, but not in the app
Affiliate links with Wine-Searcher - the #2 referral source after Google
Key differentiators of CellarTracker
Cellar management - hardcore focus on scalable needs of collectors
Good engagement - attracted a set of people who keep coming back
Community - an “authoritative” audience - more geeky people that are in the community
Focus on privacy, needs of the community, up-time, neutrality (not affiliated with retailers or other businesses)
The next horizon for CellarTracker
Building a team - was only 3 people at the start of 2021, the goal is to be 11 by year-end (data scientists, engineers, UI designer)
Upgrade & deepen the existing experience, especially mobile app - they have seen a significant shift to mobile over the last 10 years,
More recommendations and automation of different scenarios
Connection to industry/wineries/other parts of the wine ecosystem (no natural interfaces today)
Better understand and engage with the 10M people who visit the CellarTracker website - many of whom use it as a research platform
Brought on a group of angel investors to reinvest cash flow into the business
Fine Wine End-to-End w/ Don St. Pierre and Adam Lapierre MW
03 Nov 2021
00:40:06
As the only fine wine end-to-end solution in the US, Vinfolio has recently launched its wine investment service, leveraging its deep expertise in the fine wine arena. Don St. Pierre, Executive Chairman, and Adam Lapierre MW, President, tell us about Vinfolio's history, how the marketplace, storage solution, and VinCellar work together, as well as get into their recent foray into wine investment. A must-listen for those intrigued with wine investment and for fine wine lovers in general.
Detailed Show Notes:
Don St. Pierre's background
1996 - founded ASC Fine Wines w/ his father, a wine importer in China
2010 - sold ASC to Suntory, stayed with the company until 2014
2015 - got connected with Vinfolio and bought 33% of business with a friend
Adam Lapierre's background
Mainly on the supply side (worked at a winery in the Finger Lakes, at an importer)
Became an MW in 2013 and moved to the buying side, working for Lidl, a major retailer of wine
Joined Vinfolio in 2018, became President in 2020
Vinfolio's history
Started by Steve Backman, a software entrepreneur, and wine collector, in 2004 - he wanted to create a cellar management tool and marketplace to store and sell wine
Built VinCellar - cellar management tool, started at a similar time to Cellar Tracker (Eric Levine), the difference is Steve wanted a more end-to-end solution for collectors vs. a more utility tool for Cellar Tracker
Built VinFolio - marketplace and warehouse storage business
2009 - Vinfolio went bankrupt in Global Financial Crisis, clients came in and took over the business
Vinfolio is an end-to-end solution for wine collectors - buying, storing, and selling wine, focusing on the niche of fine wine coupled with technology
Most people hear about Vinfolio through retail/e-commerce today, but that may shift as VinCellar is re-built and re-launched
Vinfolio Marketplace
A fixed price auction model
Uses proprietary tools that determine recommended market price for collectors to sell at
Storage clients use VinCellar to put wines for sale, or others can use the full-service option w/ the cellar acquisition team (every bottle on the marketplace has been inspected with it being rare for wines to be sent back)
Wine sourcing
Collector Marketplace (⅓ of wine sales) - from individual collectors
Producer Marketplace (⅔ of wine sales) - from a global network of merchants (e.g., negociants), direct from producers, and US importers/distributors (~15-20% of sourcing)
Try to clearly differentiate between the sourcing types
Advantages of the Vinfolio marketplace
For Buyers - the breadth of wine at their fingertips, more clarity around the asking price vs. other auctions
For Sellers - realized prices often higher than live auctions (except for very rare wines)
Wine Storage
A vital part of the business is to create ready supply for the marketplace
It makes VinCellar an essential part of the business
Convenience for clients to get delivery
A premium service
Pricing ~$5/case/month
Inventory is cataloged and received at the bottle level
Clients can take delivery or sell wines at the bottle level
Wine Investment Service
It started because Vinfolio got unsolicited inquiries around wine as an asset class for investment
Retail marketplace helps Vinfolio understand where market demand is
Investment customers are mainly new customers vs. traditional clients that are more passionate wine collectors
Vinfolio investment process
Min investment size = $25,000 - in order to have a diversified portfolio
Purchase in original wood cases (OWC) mostly
Understand client's interests
Focus mainly on blue-chip / investment grade wines, the foundation of every portfolio is Bordeaux
"Stock picking" - look at buying opportunities and allocate portfolio across current and mature vintages
Put wines in storage - mainly in the UK under bond (as it's easier to sell)
Key benefits of Vinfolio wine investment
Buying side - acquire below market (charge landed cost (which includes shipping from the UK) + 6% commission, which is usually 10-20% below US retailer pricing)
Selling side - uses fixed auction model, 12% commission for the sale (lower than standard commission rates)
Storage fees consistent with w/ Vinfolio storage fees
Investors get access to special wines, similar to private clients
Vinfolio has an informal list of producers with high demand, leveraging experience of the day to day business
Uses Vin-dex - Vinfolio proprietary pricing algorithm - provides a daily market price for wines
Has 10 years of historical auction data
Wine-Searcher pricing - takes in ~5,000 web calls/day
Balancing the Head and Heart of Wine Investing w/ Tom Gearing, Cult Wines
27 Oct 2021
00:59:18
As the wine investment business leader with $275M of assets under management, Cult Wines has been a pioneer in the space for over a decade. Born out of a passion for wine, Tom Gearing, CEO and founder of Cult Wines, tries to balance the head and heart elements of investing in wine with actively managed portfolios by CFAs and experiences with some of the top wineries of the world. Tom shares all the details and great examples of why people should consider investing in wine, the Cult Wine investment process, and where Cult Wines is heading.
Detailed Show Notes:
Tom’s background
founded Cult Wines w/ his brother in university
Father was an investment banker with a passion for wine, especially Burgundy
Traveled a lot to Burgundy as a child
Started an import company - Burgundy Cellar
The early 2000s - started Financial Wines - an online price transparency tool, but ran out of funding after the dot com crash
2007-2008 - during Financial Crisis - people looking for alternative investments - Tom realized wine was a safe haven and should be more investable
Based in the UK
Where the Wine trading is very well established
The UK has tax free status for wine trading for anyone in the world - can keep wine in a tax free warehouse where you don’t pay taxes (sales tax, VAT) upfront
Asian collectors used London to build collections before shipping it
Brexit impact - mostly operational (shipping is a lot slower) vs. tax,
Why invest in wine?
Those with a passion for wine - Build a fine wine collection, can drink it, or sell it in the future
Those not passionate about wine - wine prices are more consistent and tend to go up in value because the supply goes down over time (people drink it), tends to be insensitive to financial market fluctuations (went up in value in 2009) - suitable for diversification
Vs. art/cars/other alternative investments, wine is more attractive:
Accessibility - lower barriers to entry - hundreds or thousands of dollars for wine vs. millions for fine art/cars
Liquidity - better than other alternative assets
Price transparency - more trading publicly and more visibility (though, still not as good as it could be)
Wine investment serves as a storage/aging function for the fine wine market with pristine provenance and authenticity
Cult Wines Overview
Not a retailer - acquires wines on behalf of clients
Three warehouses - London, Paris, Bordeaux
EU changed storage laws in 2016 to hold wines without paying VAT (similar to the UK)
Have own warehouse and staff to ensure provenance and authenticity of wines (e.g., caught heat damage on a shipment of Scarecrow wine and made a claim with freight forwarder immediately)
Has own photography studio and processes 250 cases/day, and photos are immediately uploaded for inspection
Investment process
Has a managed portfolio service (min $10k investment)
Gather client objectives - risk profile, investment duration (3-5 years, 5-10 years, 10+ years), how wine fits into their entire portfolio
Build a personalized, customized portfolio
Store wine in physical warehouses (clients own bottles or cases, the physical asset b/c it’s hard to have liquidity for funds where people have fractional ownership of a fund)
Get access to investment platform
Top-down investment process - actively managed portfolios
Cult Wines has a Chief Investment Officer (CIO), and all portfolio managers are Chartered Financial Analysts (CFA)
Constantly reviewing the market and making asset allocation decisions
E.g., Trump Tariffs on European wine - team thought Bordeaux would go down in price, proposed reducing allocations from 40% -> 30% and re-allocate to Italy, which looked undervalued already and had no tariffs; in 6 months, AUM of Bordeaux went from 40%->36% and Italy 6%->13% and Bordeaux prices went down 2-3% and Italy up 12%
Benefits - portfolio allocation, customization of the portfolio, investment platform access, customer support, storage & insurance, trading on the platform (no feeds on trading to align Cult Wines interests with clients)
Higher tiers get more experiential benefits - access to producers, client-only events, educational activities, vineyard visits
Wine Buying
35% direct from winery/new vintages
65% secondary market - from existing investors, trusted suppliers/brokers, and trading platforms (e.g., Liv-Ex)
Wine Selling / Delivery
~20% of wines have been delivered to people, can ship to 45 states, clients pay delivery fees
Some clients use Cult wines as a global cellar - e.g., a Japanese collector sent wines to the US when he was going to be there to visit
Wine sales channels
Cult Wines buys for other clients - for wines they believe will appreciate more
Trade team - sells to other wine merchants, brokers, traders, importers
Retail/Direct to Consumer - listed on Wine-Searcher and Cult Wines website for sale
Team - ~100 people total
Infrastructure based in UK (including ~24 tech and product folks)
Regional offices - relationship managers, portfolio manager (all CFA level; Hong Kong, Singapore, 2 in London, New York)
8 in North America (3 in Canada, 5 in New York)
Company’s Growth
1st 5 years - establishing proof of concept
2nd 5 years:
2014 - acquired competitor, Premier Cru Fine Wine Investments, doubled AUM and business
2016 - opened Hong Kong office
2018 - opened Singapore office
2014-2019 - $7 -> $50Mm in AUM
Next 5-year phase (18 months in) - “reborn, evolution”
Fine wine investment is limited by market inefficiencies: accessibility, liquidity, price transparency
Focused on projects that will improve inefficiencies and that will naturally make the wine investment space grow
Types of wine for investment
Opportunistic trading - capturing inefficiencies in pricing - there may be opportunities to buy in one region and sell in another at a profit
Benchmark wines - based on scores (with critics weighted differently by the impact), vintages, the value of an established baseline of wines (e.g., Bordeaux, Burgundy)
Finding new opportunities - wines with high quality that have a good chance of increasing in value, e.g., Pierre Gonon St Joseph - was 30-40 euros 3-4 years ago, now $150/bottle
Auction houses - don’t work with them much
Hard to get certainty of provenance
A lot more mature/older wines which have already gone up a lot in value
Making Wine Investing Accessible w/ Anthony Zhang, Vinovest
20 Oct 2021
00:37:03
A serial entrepreneur, Anthony Zhang, was pondering alternative investments and fell into wine. With superior returns to the S&P 500, less volatility, and low correlation with the stock market, wine investment seemed like a perfect category to democratize with technology. Anthony tells us why people should consider investing in wine, the Vinovest investment process, and how wine investment may impact the wine industry. All with a mission of lowering the cost and barriers for the average consumer to invest in wine.
Detailed Show Notes:
Anthony’s background
He grew up around the world, childhood in Beijing and Hong Kong
Went to USC for college and founded EnvoyNow, a food delivery service for college campuses with investment from Mark Cuban and Peter Thiel
Was considering alternative investments and was attracted to wine over others (e.g., art, cars)
Wine investing challenges
Hard to get access to the wines
Fees for auctions, shipping, and storage
Investment thesis - fine wine has outperformed the S&P 500 over the last 20 years, has half the volatility, and has a low correlation with the stock market (i.e., is a good hedge); wine also has a decreasing supply over time, which enables appreciation over time
Vinovest investment process
Choose how much to invest, how long to invest in (e.g., 5 vs. 20 years), and your risk appetite (e.g., blue-chip wines like 1st growths or Grand Cru Burgundy or “emerging markets” like newer winemakers, ownership changes, etc.…) => this helps determine which wines to invest in
Invest in whole bottles or cases, not fractional bottles or fractions of a portfolio
Acquire, store, and insure wines
Vinovest can help sell wines as well
Fees - all-inclusive 2.85% / year asset management fee
Access/procurement of wines
Shipping and wine storage
Insurance
Average bottle price ~$200-600/bottle
Acquire wines below retail by buying direct from negociants or wineries
Currently managing ~$50M (as of Sept 2021)
Can take physical delivery of wines - but often stored in Europe, so can arrange for batch delivery with others to reduce shipping costs (from hundreds of dollars to <$100 for shipping)
Selling wine - only invest in whole bottles and cases, so there are more places to sell to, including retailers and restaurants. Most deals are done offline
Good liquidity for 5-15-year-old wines
Need at least a 5 year time horizon to realize returns
Investable wines
Need scarcity (not available widely), track record of improving with age, and brand equity (a sought after, globally recognized brand)
Regional mix - ~25-35% Bordeaux, #2 = Burgundy, #3 = Italy (Super Tuscans, Barolo), small amounts of select producers in California, Chile, Germany; vintage Champagne having a resurgence (e.g. - 1996, 2002 vintages)
Algorithm for determining wines backtested back to the 1980s
Fake/counterfeit wines
Provenance/fraud are the most significant risk for newcomers => Vinovest’s insurance company inspects and authenticates the wines
Vinovest only buys in-bond so can track the previous owners
Vinovest differentiation - more technology-driven, collect more data and aggregate it to create automated investment strategies
To address wine funds that fail - each investor owns their wines with an audit trail that shows the wine is theirs
Wine investment impact on the wine industry
Wine prices may increase as more players enter the investment market
Climate change is increasing prices through lower yields
It won’t impact commercial wines (e.g., $10-20 bottles), but fine wines
Auction houses - the modern investor isn’t okay with paying 20-25% premiums
Regulation
US - wine is classified as a collectible, like art or rare coins, and is subject to capital gains tax when sold (self-reported)
Int’l - some countries, like the UK, France, and parts of Asia, wine is classified as a “wasting asset” with an expiration date (often 50 years) and is capital gains tax-free
Next for Vinovest - want to continue to educate consumers on the benefits of wine investing, intends to create a low entry point to make wine investing more accessible
With droughts, floods, hail, wildfires, and more challenging how wine is made, Familia Torres and Jackson Family Wines are leading the way to tackle climate change in the wine industry by founding the International Wineries for Climate Action. Founded in 2019, the group already has 22 members and continues to expand its reach and impact. Listen in as Josep Maria Ribas Portella, Climate Change Director for Familia Torres, and Julien Gervreau, VP Sustainability at Jackson Family Wines, tell us about the impacts of climate change, how to measure GHG in the wine industry, and ways wineries are working to improve their emissions. A mission-critical effort for the entire wine industry, listen in to learn more!
~2010 - Miguel Torres tried to start something similar in Spain, but it didn’t work out
Deciding to partner w/ JFW and make it international led to the successful launch of the IWCA
IWCA tries to standardize emissions measurement and communications
The wine industry is not a significant contributor to climate change, but agriculture is an emerging area of opportunity, and wine can represent agriculture more broadly
For IWCA members (as of Oct 2021) - the average bottle of wine has a 1.61 CO2e/L of GHG emissions
Range - 0.75 - ~10 => larger wineries tend to be lower, smaller wineries tend to be higher
GHG reduction measures
Shipping is ~15% of carbon footprint for Torres => using railroad when possible, ship in bulk (for every 1 bulk shipper sent, it replaces 4 containers, saving 3 shipments)
Electricity - many wineries installing onsite renewable energy, primarily solar
Harvest is 2.5 months/year but uses ~50% of electric consumption
Packaging - ~25% of total GHG footprint
Glass is ~20% of the total GHG footprint
JFW - reduced the weight of bottles for KJ and La Crema - saved ~3-4% of total GHG emissions and saved money
Reduce weight bottles have more recycled content in the glass, reduce emissions of glass making process (e.g., Furnace of the Future), bloggers starting to weigh bottles before tasting
Torres - bottles down to 400g, can’t go much lower, or bottles will break on the bottling line or with consumers
Potential future of re-utilizing bottles
Regenerative farming - could potentially lead to carbon sequestration in the soil, science still in progress
IWCA Mission & Purpose
Decarbonize the wine industry as fast as possible
3 membership classes - Gold, Silver, Applicant (committed to joining)
Requirements
Commit to Net Zero by 2050 with intermediate reductions by 2030 (all)
Submit baseline GHG emissions inventory, verified by 3rd party audit (all)
Min 20% onsite renewable energy (Gold)
Constant reductions year over year (Gold)
Do not recognize purchase of external offsets in reductions
Target membership
Goal - 20 wineries by Nov 2021
Oct 2021 - 22 wineries
Miguel Torres long-term target - 100 wineries
Fees - a sliding scale by volume
Flat fee - €4,000 / year
Variable fee - €0.01 / case produced / year, cap of 600,000 cases
Max fee = €10,000 / year
Measurement & verification paid by wineries themselves
Released a GHG calculator to enable wineries to catalog emissions data on their own
Smaller wineries join (there are members as small as a few thousand cases) to participate in something bigger and to amplify their voice
Upcoming for the IWCA
Oct 21st - 1st Member Report launch - includes all GHG inventories from all members, which will be made public
Breaking Down the 3-Tier System w/ Tom Wark, National Association of Wine Retailers
06 Oct 2021
00:55:45
Instituted in a different time, post Prohibition, the 3-Tier system of alcohol distribution and sales in the US creates inefficiencies in matching inventory with demand. Tom Wark, Executive Director of the National Association of Wine Retailers (“NAWR”), founder of Wark Communications, and writer of Fermentation - the Daily Wine Blog educates us on the history, key issues, and challenges of navigating the 3-Tier system for wine consumers to get the wines they want. The NAWR is on a mission to modernize the regulatory landscape for alcohol and bring choice to consumers. Listen in to Tom’s decades of war stories on wine regulation!
Detailed Show Notes:
Tom’s background
He grew up in Northern California and got interested in wine at an early age
Amazon could get into the wine space w/ Whole Foods alcohol licenses and ship to anyone locally -> The only way for independent retailers to compete is to do interstate shipping
16 states currently allow interstate shipping
Wine.com has retail licenses in many states to ship to most states
Secondary issue - procurement of inventory
Retailers must buy from in-state wholesalers who have a limited selection
Retailers desire to purchase directly from importers or wineries no matter where they are to broaden their selection
NAWR mission - to modernize the regulatory landscape for alcohol
Most regulations were written in the 1930s-1950s
Alcohol is more regulated than tobacco
E.g., if a brewery wants to sell direct to consumer, it needs to sell to a wholesaler and then repurchase it to sell to the consumer
Franchise laws - binds producer to a wholesaler for life, even if the wholesaler is no longer supporting the brand
Advocate litigation for change - e.g., states that allow their own retailers to ship to other states but don’t allow out-of-state retailers to ship in, believes that violates the dormant commerce clause of the Constitution
Lobbying, education of retailers, cultivation of allies (very few - consumers and media; most against - distributors, non-online retailers (believe it will create more competition), wineries (indifferent), importers (were not active supporters))
The 3-Tier system in the US
1930’s - post-prohibition (1933) - each state had to regulate alcohol, and each did it a bit differently
Two main concerns - prevent tied house laws and organized crime
Tied house - producers controlled retailers => got bars to do sketchy things and promote high alcohol consumption
3-tiers - producer, wholesaler, retailer
Retailers must buy from wholesalers
Stopping tied house - wineries can’t own retailers
Historically - lots of wholesalers competing to represent producers
Today - 10,000+ wineries, fewer wholesalers -> wholesalers act as gatekeepers, not required to bring producers in and shut out small producers who aren’t worth the time and effort to represent them
CA producers and importers can sell direct to retailers/restaurants
Wholesalers are very powerful - contribute meaningfully ($10M+/year) to state political campaigns, 10x more than wineries and retailers combined
Each state has different 3-tier regulation, creates an enormous compliance burden
IL - wineries can sell directly to retailers only if they produce <25k cases/year and must sell <5k cases/year w/in the state
CA/WA - all direct sales from producers to retailers/restaurants
E-commerce
~10-12% of wine retail today, includes Drizly, Instacart, & grocery delivery
Shipping far smaller than delivery
To be successful, retailers need to engage consumers digitally - cultivate an email list, create an experience for customers
Challenges
Getting wine to consumers (illegal to ship to many states)
Hard to make time to do outreach to legislators, regulators while running a small business
Restaurants become retailers during the Covid pandemic
The 1980s & 1990s - number of wineries exploded, they needed to sell directly to consumers since distributors wouldn’t represent them, became legal a precedent with the 2005 Supreme Court Granholm case - which specified if states allowed in-state wineries to ship to consumers, it must allow out-of-state wineries to ship into the state
Taxes
If states allow retailers to ship in, retailers are required to remit local sales taxes and have a permit
Software systems set up for wineries also can cover retailers (e.g., ShipCompliant, Avalara), makes compliance easier
Pure online players - wine.com, Naked Wines => valuable for showing consumers what can be accessed online and the experience of online retail
What needs to change? The Supreme court needs to tell states not to discriminate (2019 case - Tennessee vs. Thomas - can’t discriminate against retailers)
Getting Inside Bordeaux w/ Jane Anson, janeanson.com
29 Sep 2021
00:57:29
Accidentally filling the big shoes of Michael Broadbent and Steven Spurrier, Jane Anson, wine critic, author of Inside Bordeaux, founder of janeanson.com, and former Bordeaux correspondent for Decanter for nearly 20 years, is one of the world’s foremost experts on the wines, history, and region of Bordeaux. Having lived in Bordeaux since 2003, Jane shares her deep insights into how Bordeaux became as famous as it is, how the systems of La Place de Bordeaux and En Primeur work, and the complex terroir of the region. She gives us insight into the content of janeanson.com and how it will be a unique look into Bordeaux, focus on the drinkability of the wines, and many of the unique features to be released.
Detailed Show Notes:
Jane’s background
Living in Bordeaux since 2003, she thought she’d only be there for 1-2 years
Journalist background
Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent for nearly 20 years, wrote a weekly column since 2014, the sole Bordeaux wine critic since the 2016 vintage
She took a tasting aptitude class at the enology school in Bordeaux
She chose Bordeaux because it’s still a big city (lived in London before), 2 hours from the Spanish border, 2 hours from Paris
Can be accessed by inside-bordeaux.com or janeanson.com
Saw a gap in the market for a website specializing in Bordeaux vs. ~4-5 for Burgundy
Value proposition
No outside investment, no advertising
Focus on drinkability
Covers all wines that sell through La Place de Bordeaux (including the ~90 wines that are not Bordeaux wines)
Regular verticals, en primeur, in bottle reports
Two weeks of trips during the year
One week - for high-end collectors
One week - “free” aimed at young sommeliers, people that want to work in the wine trade to showcase the dynamic side of Bordeaux
Launch specials
a translation of memoirs of a WWII soldier in Bordeaux
Vertical of tiny producer LaFleur Saint-Jean - lies in between Lafleur, Lafleur Petrus, and Petrus in Pomerol only sells direct, sells out immediately, had never done a vertical before
1% for the Planet - 1% of revenue goes towards environmental charities
Bordeaux’s rise and fall
Key advantages
A port city, far enough inland to be a safe port
12th century - duchy of the English crown, wines were sold in the London market
The system of chateaux, merchants, negociants was built for export
Terroir is very complex (which may be why it’s not talked about much), e.g., of the 61 wines in the 1855 Medoc classification, all of them are on two specific gravel terraces (#3 & 4) of the six terraces of the Medoc
Mostly clay underneath with gravel on top
Lots of micro terroirs
St Emilion - has pure limestone, clay, and gravel
Issues that have hurt Bordeaux
Every vintage is not great, though Bordelais often say that
Frustrate people based on the prices they ask (e.g., 2009/2010 vintages - many people who bought lost money)
La Place de Bordeaux
Business to business, sell to merchants that sell to consumers
Virtual marketplace - enables access to 10,000 clients globally
Includes chateaux, brokers, and negociants
Sells wine into every level of the food chain - has specialists for on-trade, off-trade, hotels, corner shops, supermarkets, etc.…
It doesn’t build your brand but makes sure it gets everywhere
Good at giving the illusion of scarcity
Can use La Place for specific markets - La Place has expertise in the Asian markets (e.g., China, Vietnam, Japan)
Very rare to have exclusivity for negociants
Downsides of La Place
Creates a very competitive environment - low-end wines compete with each other
Protects Bordeaux well; merchants need to buy in bad years to get allocations in good years
No direct contact with consumers for wineries
Less effective for small guys that aren’t established brands
Non-Bordeaux wines selling on La Place
Gone from nothing to 60 wines five years ago to 90 wines in 2021
Provides access to global markets - shows wines next to the great wines of Bordeaux
Opus One - the 2nd non-Bordeaux wine on La Place (after Almaviva), sold wines since 2004, opened an office in Bordeaux
Forced negociants to share client lists (created more transparency)
1st Champagne just joined - Clos des Goisses (Philipponnat) - only 600 bottles of 1996 late release
No Burgundy producers (not enough volume, no need for it, and the rivalry between Burgundy and Bordeaux)
Barriers to joining La Place - need enough volume to get everywhere, need to do your own brand-building work, and meeting customers
An increase in overseas wines has hurt smaller Bordeaux estates -> negociants have limited budgets and drop them
Marketing Bordeaux - unlikely to be another 1855 like classification, St Emilion’s classification every ten years is constantly litigated, some marketing organizations:
Pomerol Seduction - 8-10 Pomerol estates that band together
Bordeaux Oxygen - young producers, targeting younger audiences, no longer active
En Primeur
Due to export focus, Bordeaux always had samples shipped off overseas
From the early 1980s, Parker injected excitement into En Primeur system
People used to make money, and now they are often better off waiting until wines are in bottle with certain exceptions (e.g., tiny production Pomerols)
No longer has the same sense of urgency
Tranche system - release a small amount of wine at one price, then release more later at higher prices
E.g., 2010 1st growths came out at €600/bottle (these people made money), final tranche at €1,200/bottle (these people lost money) -> destroyed interest in en primeur in the Chinese market
non-Bordeaux wines price more consistently than Bordeaux wines
Library Release: Originally aired as Episode 5 in June of 2020.
In one of our original episodes, Robert and Peter discuss how competitive the wine market is, how wine scores used to differentiate wines from each other, but do that less today, and the use of wine scores has evolved over time. This episode provides another data point for the conversation around the evolution of the wine critic, as discussed in episodes 61 - 64.
Detailed Show Notes:
Wine scores were the traditional method of differentiating a wine brand
The wine landscape is getting more competitive and crowded,
In 20 years, there were 8x more 100 point scores, making them less remarkable than in the past
However, the same percentage of wines (0.4%) got 100 points in 2015 as in 1995, as 8x more wines were reviewed by The Wine Advocate
How wineries use critic scores
In the past - wineries leveraged the followers of wine critics, gaining new customers
20+ years ago, thousands of buyers would flock to wineries with a 100 point score; today, that number is in the hundreds
Today - wineries use scores to promote and market their wines - they are used as a validation of quality, not necessarily dependant on a specific wine critic
It has become harder to follow a single critic than in the past
Wineries need to build their brands
E.g., Philippe Guigal once said, “we don’t do marketing” - and is able to do that because Guigal has already built their brand in the trade with over 20 Robert Parker 100 point scores -> this type of marketing may not be as effective today
Brands need to have wine quality as a baseline and more than scores to sell effectively
Critics leveraging scores to promote themselves - some critics may give higher scores to be the top score that is used to promote the wine by retailers and wineries, increasing consumers awareness of their own brand and media channel
Burgundy in Context w/ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
15 Sep 2021
00:54:17
As the wine reviewer for Burgundy for The Wine Advocate and a small producer of Burgundy himself, William Kelley has a deep and insightful perspective on Burgundy. We discuss how Burgundy became “without substitute” and why “all roads lead to Burgundy,” the rapid escalation of both vineyard and wine prices, and how what was once very contracting landholdings are now consolidating again. History, economics, geology, and terroir all come together in this episode of XChateau!
Detailed Show Notes:
Listen to the beginning of Episode 62 for background information on William
Burgundy as vignerons vs Bordelais châteaux
William believes this is an illusion - historically, Burgundy vineyards were owned by the nobility and the church
Today - LVMH, AXA, and rich, wealthy people own many of the domaines and vineyards
Bordeaux outside the Cru Classe are much more modest in nature
The French land reforms of 1792 (during the French Revolution) broke up large tracts of land -> led to a “morcellation of parcels”
Led to emphasis on each small parcel of land and its impact
Created the ability to see the human element of winemaking (two people making the wine from the same vineyard) and the human impact on terroir
Metayage system - born in Beaujolais, a form of “sharecropping” where people take half the fruit in exchange for farming the land, popular in Burgundy where people own small parcels of land and often don’t live there
High death/inheritance taxes, which are assessed based on the value of the land lead to more vineyard sales and end up with more consolidation of land holdings, particularly into businesses that don’t have to pay death taxes
Burgundy as the top global winegrowing region
The wines are good/high quality
They pair well with a lot of food and are very versatile (vs. the Medoc)
Are a social signifier - wine collectors can “one-up” others by mastering the complexities of Burgundy more than Bordeaux or any other region
Grand Cru vineyards are tiny and limited - sends the prices skyrocketing (e.g., Domaine d’Auvenay Aligote now sells for $2,500 / bottle)
Bordeaux mismanaged the emerging market of China with the 2010 en primeur pricing, similar to what Hennessy and Cognac did in China, destroying the market
Value of Burgundy land
High prices partially driven by tax write-offs for any losses, owners get the wine lifestyle “for free”
Believes land prices and wine prices will continue to escalate
Disconnection between land and wine prices
In the 17th century, there used to be a saying that the value of a vineyard should equal 3 years of production - this is way different today
E.g., a famous Chablis producer’s Les Clos magnum sells at €80 from the domaine, but $2,000 in the US -> lots of other people making money on the wine outside of the winery
“No end in sight” to price increases for Burgundy, wine is still a relatively inexpensive luxury good (vs. cars, watches, etc.…)
Climate change
Not as bad as some people think, bad weather events also occurred in the 19th century
Today there are more viticultural techniques to combat climate change (e.g., canopy management, etc..)
Price increases also more than offset the volume decreases
The Micro-negociant
Purchasing fruit is expensive - ~€3-5,000 per barrel for village wines, €550-600 for Chiroubles
If some negociants get the attention of investors, they can acquire land and become domaines
More expensive to produce negociant wine vs. domaine wine
Growers in Burgundy take the yield risk (the classic arrangement is negociants buy the fruit by the barrel)
A seller’s market - need good relationships with growers, hard for outsiders to get good fruit
Negociants have the ability to make lower appellations/vineyards more popular - e.g., Arnoud Ente Meursault La Seve du Clos is a lesser site, but Ente has elevated it
Domaine vs. Maison
Consumers still put a lot of stock by it, but boundaries are blurring
E.g., PYCM - started as negociant, rolled in family vineyards, but don’t state “Domaine” anywhere, the idea being that all wines are worthy of the brand
Price should be driven by quality, not hierarchy (e.g., some Aligote more expensive than Grand Cru Puligny)
Brand expansions can’t be diluted because of the vineyard hierarchy - the Grand Crus are still high quality and drive brand reputation
The Future of Burgundy
Viticulture - would like to see every site in Burgundy farmed like a Grand Cru. William wants to break glass ceilings in every appellation
Winemaking - people extracting less and less, flirting with natural wine movement, lighter, softer styles of red Burgundy more popular, longer elevage is getting more fashionable (and is rooted in history - used to do 2-3 years elevage because it was the only way to clarify the wine)
Price escalation impacts on other wine regions - “there is no substitute (for Burgundy),” people will look further afield, but “all roads lead to Burgundy”
Insular nature of Burgundy changing - the new generation of owners are from New York, Macau, Shanghai, and Hong Kong
Advice to the new generation of producers - taste the great wines of the world, including older benchmark wines
Changing leadership of domaines - though marketed as a good thing, there’s a lot of pressure for the next generation of a famous domain, and that tends towards being more conservative and listening to consultants vs. trying something new
M&A - “everyone wants to buy as much land as they can”; don’t see a lot of people wanting to go global, there’s still ample price escalation in Burgundy
The 2024 US DTC Wine Market w/ Cathy & Chris Huyghe, Enolytics
22 Jan 2025
00:59:10
With a second year of volume declines, 2024 has been challenging for the wine industry. Digging deeper into what trends are shaping the wine industry’s malaise, Cathy and Chris Huyghe, founders of sales analytics software platform Enolytics, have uncovered important insights into the US DTC wine market, including the decline of women and the divide between the affluent and middle class in wine purchasing. Enolytics has also developed a free service for the industry called EnoInsights, which is worth checking out.
Detailed Show Notes:
Enolytics launched b/c no one in wine knew what to do with their data
Builds sales analytics software for the wine & spirits industry for both DTC and wholesale depletion data
Customers primarily small (<$1M DTC revenue) & medium-sized, growing in larger wineries
US, Canada, Australia - primarily US w/ 80% California
Partnership with WineDirect
Exchange anonymized data every quarter and analyze it to build reports for the industry
~2k wineries in database, ~1k wineries analyzed after removing outliers
2024 DTC trends
Revenue flat-ish, volumes down significantly
Women purchasing less (-4%) - overall (-3%), men (-2%); reverses a recent trend of women buying more wine, not generationally different, impacting white (-5%) and rose (-10%) more than red (-2%)
Affluent areas are doing better (flat revenue, lower volume), middle-class & poorer areas are down more
Wineries increasing pricing (+5% through Q3 2024), AOV up due to pricing
VA is doing reasonably well, CA - particularly Napa and Sonoma, hardest hit - they largely depend on tourism (70% of purchases from people outside CA), Central Coast CA is not down as much (70% of purchasers from CA)
Hospitality/visitation declined 7% (# of purchasers) in 2024 (also declined in 2023)
Impacts wine club sign-ups, with hospitality the main club sign-up engine
Wine club growth -3% (# of members) in last 12 months
Club doing best of all major DTC channels - revenue flat, volume down
Less expensive wineries getting hit more (less affluent customers)
Customizations up - 20% of shipments, higher revenue per shipment
Avg club tenure falling
Best practices - better training of tasting room staff, use data to manage attrition (Enolytics has an algorithm to determine attrition risk; wineries that use it see 20% less attrition than average), use data to target customers to join the wine club (high spenders that are not in the club)
Website sales have the most significant room for growth, -42% since 2022, still up from pre-pandemic
2020 +250% in online sales
Texting, “concierge” services, more targeted telemarketing (highest AOV channel, 6x tasting room; potential to leverage tasting room staff)
Average winery emails the entire list, gets lots of unsubscribes, recommends hyper-segmentation, creates messages for 100-200 people
Events - same levels as 2022
Opportunity to take tasting room on the road
Recommends targeted events with a specific goal
Go to places where there’s an existing customer base
Cross-channel marketing can be effective, e.g., using DTC data to sell out a restaurant event
Wholesale data partner - VIP - includes “can buy” and “lost” accounts
Regional wine marketing boards (VA, Paso Robles) engaging Enolytics to do studies on DTC data - currently doing baseline analysis and onboarding more wineries, sending quarterly reports
Building import and distribution pipes w/ Gabe Barkley, MHW
08 Sep 2021
00:37:16
Breaking into the US market for alcohol has always been hard. Archaic rules such as the 3-tier system and differing regulations by state make it a complex web of rules and regulations to be in compliance. The increasing consolidation of the distributor channel has made it even harder for smaller players to enter. MHW's goal is to make that simpler, giving producers the ability to enter the market and take control of their own destiny. They provide outsourced importation, distribution, and back-office / compliance services so their clients can grow and execute their sales & marketing plan. Listen in as Gabe Barkley, CEO of MHW, gives us a rundown of how they do this and how it compares to traditional importation and distribution.
Detailed Show Notes:
MHW background
Leader in import, distribution, and back-office services for wine, spirits, and beer (beverage alcohol)
Founded in 1934
Objective: enable rapid growth of new producers and importers for the US and EU markets
Plays mostly in the import and distribution tier of the 3-tier system in the US (3 tiers = producer, distributor, retailer; import being in-between producer and distributor)
Has wholesale licenses in 4 markets - NY, NJ, CA, & FL
Gabe’s background
Passion for wine started when he lived in Rome in college
Worked in wine retail after college
Left wine for consulting (Accenture, Deloitte)
Helped Kevin Sidders launch Vinconnect (listen to E51 for details)
Partnered w/ PE Fund post business school to partner w/ MHW (4 years ago)
MHW Core Services
Provides the “pipes” for selling into the US and EU, does not buy and sell the wines like a traditional importer/distributor
Main Services:
Certificate of Label Approval (“COLA”) - winery or client’s name on back label “imported by” not MHW
Hypothetical - winery targeting NY market entry - MHW helps bring the product over, the owner comes and open accounts, MHW takes orders and fulfills accounts
Hypothetical - the winery has an opportunity with a large national retailer to be in 30 states - MHW brings product over and delivers to wholesalers or direct to retailer in some states
Technology ecosystem
Internal ERP to deliver solutions to clients
Transparency is important - client reporting dashboard that updates every 2 hours
Order placement tool
Other communications and self-service tools
Business Model
Per case fee with a minimum monthly fee
Breakeven happens ~350 cases/month or more
Passes on direct costs of being in the market (e.g., warehousing/storage fees)
MHW Size
Sold through platform 150M cases since mid-1995
Helping 10,000s of products come to market
150 employees, rapidly hiring
Global vision - opened EU office in 2018 - no 3-tier system, but complex tax ecosystem they help clients with
Market size - started in a niche, but growing due to increased distributor consolidation (making it hard for wineries to break into the market), cutting out the complexity of the 3-tier system while still controlling your own destiny, providing more cost-effective solutions
Competitors - some more tech-focused, a self-serve model; some more focused on 1 vertical (e.g., spirits or wine), MHW differentiates with a high touch service
MHW vs traditional importer / distributor
3 ways to enter the market
Do it yourself - build out back-office to support it
Traditional importer/distributor - lose control of how wine is sold, but get paid upfront and importer sells the wine, lose transparency into who’s buying the wine
MHW - strategic partner to import and fulfill the way the winery wants it to happen
E-commerce increase enables clients to have another opportunity to get traction in the US market
Upcoming for MHW
Develop more value-added tech solutions
Acquired BevStrat in 2019 - provides on the ground sales support for clients
Crypto and Wine w/ Jeff Andrews & Ray McKee, Trothe Winery
01 Sep 2021
00:33:42
Jeff Andrews was such a crypto fan that he built 4 crypto mining rigs in his family’s winery lab. A mini-meltdown of one of the rigs didn’t diminish his enthusiasm, making it a no-brainer for Trothe, the new winery based on the best blocks of the 1,300 acres of the Andrews Family Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills in Washington State, to accept crypto right out of the gate. Jeff and winemaker Ray McKee talk about their passion for crypto, the process for accepting it as payment for wine, and the benefits for customers and the winery of using crypto in this episode of XChateau.
Detailed Show Notes:
Jeff’s background
4th generation farmer in Horse Heaven Hills, Washington
1st winegrapes planted in 1980
A lawyer by training
Family farms 1,300 acres of vineyards (Andrew Family Vineyards)
Exporting the King of Wines w/ Valentina Abbona, Marchesi di Barolo
25 Aug 2021
00:49:58
Growing up in a small town of ~700 people made Valentina Abbona, 6th generation vintner and Export and Marketing Manager for her family’s winery, Marchesi di Barolo, want to explore the world. Stints in the US, India, and China ultimately led her back to the family business and managing wine exports. Valentina talks about the history of Barolo exports, including becoming “The King of wine, wine of Kings,” how she approaches new markets, and the differences between markets around the world. Explore the world through the lens of Barolo in this episode of XChateau!
Founded by the last Marquis di Barolo Carlo Tancredi Falletti and French Noblewoman Giulia Colbert di Maulevrier
Thomas Jefferson noted that the juice from the Barolo area had potential (which was not the same as the current dry wine)
The Marchesa Giulia built the cellars based on the potential of the Nebbiolo grape underground in the 1800s to create a still wine
Marchesi di Barolo, and subsequently Barolo, became the “King of wine, wine of Kings”
Abbona family bought the estate in 1929 (Valentina’s great grandfather)
Valentina’s background
She grew up in the town of Barolo (~700 people)
Traveled and explored the world before coming back to the wine industry
After 1 year in China with a consulting company, she missed the winery and wine industry and came back to work with the family
Barolo export history
Barolo was part of the Kingdom of Savoy - the King of Savoy in Turin requested wine from Marchesa Giulia, who sent 325 barrels to the King’s Court - 1 for every day of the year except the 40 days of Lent
Traveled to royal courts around Europe
There is correspondence from the 1930s showing the wine went as far as Kabul and Java
Exportation of wine
55% of wine exported, 45% sold in Italy
Very proud that Italy is the largest market for the wine
The entire portfolio is sold in Italy
Export to >60 countries
A selection of wines are sold to various markets
Top export markets - US, Germany, Norway, Denmark
The US has more “geeky” wine knowledge
Asia is an emerging market - India (a historical market for Marchesi), China, Thailand, Japan
High growth was seen in Southeast Asia (Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, Vietnam) - especially for the different single-vineyard wines (which is a similar trend for Barolo in general)
The general trend for demand shifting to higher-end, single-vineyard bottlings vs. general Barolo (even in markets like Germany that historically bought more “classic” wines at the low - medium price points)
Expanding to new markets
Strategy based on the size of the market and knowledge of the wine consumer
E.g., Uzbekistan is a new market - “easy” as buyer contacted Marchesi
Bigger markets, which have more diverse consumer bases - often need more education and background knowledge before market launch
Italy tends to do things solo vs. as a group, though the local Consorzio is starting to promote the territory more
Strategy for larger markets
Canada - each province has a different partner, particularly with the nuances of the local government monopolies
US - one importer with local distributors for the different states; need to have a lot of regional meetings with people in each area
Engineering Wine Criticism w/ Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com
18 Aug 2021
00:37:50
Becoming a wine critic sounds like a dream for many. However, even though the cost and effort of setting up a website and putting out information have declined dramatically, doing the work of becoming a professional is no easy task - the time and effort it takes to taste and review thousands of wines a year is daunting. Jeb’s journey from aerospace engineer to reviewer of The Wine Advocate to being the Editor-in-Chief of jebdunnuck.com highlights the passion required for the journey. Jeb talks about his journey, critics going independent, blind tasting, score inflation, and more, all in service of helping his subscribers make informed wine buying decisions. Another unique viewpoint on the evolution of the wine critic on XChateau!
Detailed Show Notes:
Jeb’s background
He grew up on a farm in rural Indiana - no wine on the table
Self-trained in wine
He traveled through France and fell in love with wine
He never had an epiphany wine
Worked at Lockheed Martin in upstate New York - was an aerospace engineer for his initial career
Did a part-time job at a wine store in Denver
2008 - created a website - The Rhone Report
Released a quarterly pdf for free for 3 years
Built a subscriber base for 2 years
2013 - Robert Parker asked him to work at The Wine Advocate (“TWA”)
Worked at TWA for 5 years
Having a chance to work with Robert Parker was key to joining
2017 - left TWA and started JebDunnuck.com
The Rhone Report reviews were morphed into JebDunnuck.com
Left TWA because Jeb disagreed with the direction of the new ownership, the culture changed dramatically
Wine critic vs. wine publication
Believes the person writing the reviews is more important than the publication
The business model of publications lean them to emphasizing the publication over the critic
It’s up to the consumer to know their critics
JebDunnuck.com (“JD”)
More of a “singular voice”
He doesn’t believe in large teams of critics
JebDunnuck.com has a small group of critics covering multiple regions each
Jeb doesn’t pretend to be a writer as he comes from an engineering background => his goal is to help the consumer make buying decisions and find the wines they like
Writes concise vintage reports, talks about style and structure of wines
He doesn’t write opinion pieces, commentary, or do events
He doesn’t take money to review wines, completely subscriber funded
Reviews 9-12k wines/year
Critics going independent
Believes the trend is actually towards more business-driven, team-driven critic reviews => the size of the wine world is so big that it is pushing that way
If the critic is the most important thing for reviews, going independent is the way to do wine criticism
Best practices for wine critic ethics
Don’t take money from people making the product
There are shades of grey - e.g., sometimes people pick up the tab at a dinner
Critics should pay their own way (airfare, hotels, meals, etc.…)
JD buys a lot of wines but could not purchase them all
Cost of being independent
Website and getting information out is low now
But providing professional (e.g., extensive) coverage is hard and expensive (time, travel)
Blind tasting
Jeb is a fan of blind tasting for how to approach wines
Believes the role of the critic is more than the tasting note - it’s to provide context on the region and the producer (which can’t be done with blind tasting)
People promoting blind tasting are taking money from the trade, so Jeb believes they have to sell their process
Impact of top scores
Less impact today because so many great wines out there
More great wines than ever before => lots of substitutes, even at 95+, 100 point scores
Pathway for wineries to become iconic
Make a consistently great wine, takes time
Need to have wines tasted and reviewed by top publications
Need to make enough so people can try it and get exposure globally
Score inflation and compression
“I do think scores have increased”
Believes there’s less compression - more critics are using the whole scale (up to 100) with more highly rated wines than in the past
The format of score presentation now gives the appearance of score inflation
Scores used as email marketing will only be high ones
Most people access scores online via a score database, sorting by the highest score vs. having to read through a printed document
Scores used for large reports to give delineation between wines
100 point wines for Jeb must have the following:
Hedonistic pleasure
Intellectual pleasure
Intensity of aromas and flavors
Age ability
Singularity (they stand out)
Barrel samples
Similar to evaluating a young wine, can still be useful
Range ratings for barrel samples are important because the scores can come out before the wines are released, giving subscribers guidance for purchasing
JD’s subscriber base
Don’t have a lot of demographic info on subscribers
Pretty serious about wine, mostly collectors
~80% US-based, so CA wines are important to them
User-generated reviews
CellarTracker - useful because you can follow individuals
More Voices in Wine w/ Esther Mobley, San Francisco Chronicle
11 Aug 2021
00:46:53
Esther Mobley, Wine Critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, thought writing would be more of a passion than a career. Yet, she’s one of two full-time wine writers for newspapers in the US. Esther discusses how being at a newspaper differs from a wine magazine, the changing wine critic landscape, the impact of wine scoring, and even gives some tips for budding wine bloggers and influencers. She believes that “More voices are great” when it comes to wine writing and celebrates when there’s a new wine writer hired. A unique voice and angle in our discussion of the evolving landscape for wine critics.
Detailed Show Notes:
Esther’s background
She went to Napa to work harvest after college (for fun)
She got a job at the Wine Spectator in the editorial department
She was an English major, wanted to be a writer
Role as the SF Chron’s wine critic
Plays both a new reporter and critic role
News reporter - cover local news for a major industry (wine)
Critic - look at wine through an evaluative lens
Doesn’t score wines, writes more narrative reviews of wines
“Wine of the Week” column - focus on one bottle of wine
The decline of newspaper wine writers
Might be only 2 full time in the US - Eric Asimov (New York Times) & Esther
The local newspaper business model has shifted
All used to have a wine columnist, and no one goes to the local newspaper now to learn about wine
Newspaper wine writers have evolved - more local news-oriented, provides a view on something important to the Bay Area
Everyone works online now
Chronicle business model
Profitable and hiring a lot of people
Focused on subscribers vs. advertisement - would rather have fewer people read an article, but more subscribers
Not trying to be a national publication
Newspapers vs. magazines
Magazines score wines, publish less frequently traditionally
Newspapers - more news, though Wine Spectator also doing more wine news
Differences are narrowing between the two
Wine Critic landscape
“More voices are great”
The barrier of entry is lower than it used to be
A lot of people want to know “who’s the next Parker” -> probably will never be a next Parker
More people covering niches w/in wine
SF Chronicle / Esther - cover mostly CA wine, telling the story of Bay Area wines, enables the telling of interesting stories
Wine Influencers
Some concern over the blurring lines between sponsored and editorial content
Some people may feel they have made wine too democratic
Esther believes most criticism against influencers is sexist -> influencers just doing the best to succeed in their medium
Influencers working w/in social media algorithms to get their success
Wine Scoring
Anecdotally hear score remain important on the wholesale level - to sell wines to restaurants / retail buyers
“Wine of the Week” articles - have heard this does lead to some wines selling out at retail (publishes where wine is available, but sells out after it comes out online but before it hits print) -> recommendations from trusted sources still matter
Blind tasting - if someone is scoring wine, this is the best way to do it
Wine Spectator - tastes blind, includes a “ringer” in every flight (a wine that the critic has scored before) to see if scores are consistent
Critics vs. Publications
SF Chronicle makes Esther’s name more public
The Wine Advocate invested more in the personal name of critics vs. Wine Spectator less so
Average consumers don’t know the difference between wine critics and their palates
Stories that are interesting to Esther
“Things that don’t make sense on their face”
E.g., Andy Beckstoffer giving away grapes for free from a Lake County vineyard
Renaissance Winery in Sierra Foothills - a doomsday cult that craft a world-class wine
The Wine Critic Evolution w/ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
04 Aug 2021
00:51:54
The retirement of Robert Parker marked a major change in the role of the wine critic that had been building over time. William Kelley, Reviewer of Burgundy, Champagne, English Sparkling, and Madeira for The Wine Advocate (“TWA”), gives us his thoughts on how the wine critic landscape is changing and why, the impact wine critics have on the market, and the role of TWA. Dig deep into the mind of a wine critic on this episode of XChateau.
He ended up working a harvest in California in 2015
Makes wine - Chenin Blanc in California (beginning in 2015), in Chambolle Musigny (beginning in 2018)
Pitched a piece to Decanter and ended up becoming the North American and Burgundy editor
2019 - got a call from The Wine Advocate (“TWA”) and became a reviewer there
Currently researching a book on Burgundy that would not be an encyclopedia-style of book
The evolving role of the wine critic
Two main trends changing the role of the wine critic
The scale of the wine world is bigger, and no one can taste everything anymore (which was possible when Robert Parker started) -> creates the need for more reviewers, more specialization, and critics living in the regions they cover
The explosion of the value of fine wine - most people can’t afford luxury wines today, this makes reviewers of high-end wines dependent on the producers, whereas Parker used to buy the wines and retain the consumer perspective
More small niches are being created in wine media
Subscription models are still doing well (including at TWA)
Lifestyle writing is moving beyond the aspirational and anchored more in reality
Most wine media jobs are occupied by people who’ve been doing it for a long time (little mobility, ability for new voices to come up)
Many people in wine media don’t make enough to make a living
People doing blogs are likely to go to mainstream media as people begin to retire
Critic influence
Consumers spending a lot of money on wine still care which critics score the wines
Retailers generally show the highest scores, regardless of who the critic is
Strong/historic brands are “immune” to critic criticism
Bringing Wine to Life w/ Jacki Strum, Wine Enthusiast Media
28 Jul 2021
00:46:48
Growing up around wine has not dimmed the passion Jacki Strum brings to her work as President of Wine Enthusiast Media. In the first of a series on the evolution of the wine critic, Jacki tells us about how Wine Enthusiast has expanded its platform from print into web, social media, podcasts, and even Tik Tok. As well as how they assess wines (blindly) as a wine critic and how those ratings are used to help people buy wine. We really get under the hood of the wine media business in this episode of XChateau!
Detailed Show Notes:
Jacki's background
She grew up in wine (her parents founded Wine Enthusiast in the late 1970s)
Founded Thirsty Nest - a wine & spirits gift registry platform, media, and commerce hybrid that is part of Wine Enthusiast
Wine media in the late 1980s
Wine Enthusiast (“WE”) magazine founded in 1988, Robert Parker wrote for WE for a while
Wine Spectator was around, but not much else
“French Paradox” on 60 Minutes (1991) about the health benefits of wine was the catalyst for the entire wine industry in the US, which helped the magazine take off as well
WE media platform
Print publication - still successful
Did well during Covid as people were sick of screens and hard news
Website - growing exponentially
Houses the entire database of wine reviews
Buying guide went “through the roof” during Covid due to an increase in online wine sales
65% of visitors go to the website to buy wine
Social media
Instagram - now the biggest platform, easy to shop, easy to comment
Facebook - still important, but fading vs. Instagram
Twitter
Testing Tik Tok - believes will be the future of educational content
Podcast - done well and testing a few other series
It plays into the journalism approach - including the lifestyle elements of wine
Ratings help people buy wine
Core demographic - “the curious wine consumer,” which is more of a mindset vs. an age or gender
Wine criticism and ratings
Taste completely blind
Taste w/in 1 region
Advertisers have no say on ratings
Do points still sell wine?
100 points or Wine of the Year can still build a brand
Most ratings are a powerful tool in the marketing toolset, but just a piece of the puzzle
Certain critic/magazine names still carry more weight than others
More at the bottom of the marketing funnel - helps close the sale
At the top of the funnel - general brand awareness - WE builds partnerships with brands for marketing, including various content and social influencers
WE Buying Guide (ratings)
It comes up 1st on Google, which gives it more credibility
Review ~25,000 wines per year
Path to building a wine brand today
Scores are still helpful and free
Need to build out the marketing stack and figure out the storytelling - start with social media
The catalog did well during Covid - people needed wine storage, upgraded glassware, etc.…
Return on ad spend with WE
Partners wanted to get closer to the sale, have become more ROI driven
Implemented digital shopping carts to track purchases
Key metrics for ROAS (return on ad spend)
Email acquisition
Wine sales
Impressions
Podcasts - can use discount codes to track the impact
The natural feeling of podcasts make an ad feel more real
Webinars did well for email acquisition
Any campaigns that boosted DTC sales or signups did well
Digital advertising has grown a lot during Covid
Lots of influencer marketing - leverage 40 Under 40 contacts, usually people WE has written about
Often custom build ad partnership plans with clients
WE Catalog provides the richest database in the industry to create good ad targeting
Charting the Wine Media Landscape w/ Natalie MacLean, nataliemaclean.com
21 Jul 2021
00:44:15
Natalie MacLean, a podcaster and writer based in Ottawa, Canada, has been bringing people into her wine world for over 20 years. With two books, a newsletter with over 300,000 subscribers, a mobile app, and the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, Natalie’s main focus is on perfecting her food and wine pairing courses - The Wine Smart Course and an upcoming course on wine and cheese. Natalie tells us about how she built her personal brand, the most effective marketing channels she’s used, and where her primary revenue drivers are. If you’re interested in navigating how to be successful in the world of wine, Natalie’s journey provides key insights.
Detailed Show Notes:
Natalie’s background
Has an MBA, did consumer packaged goods (“CPG”) marketing at P&G and tech
She took a sommelier course and fell in love with wine, as a full-bodied experience
Started as a writer - cold-called editors, then wrote books, and now publishes a podcast - Unreserved Wine Talk
She didn’t drink alcohol until she was in her late 20’s
Brunello was the wine that got her into wine
Current focus - online food and wine pairing courses
Focused on 2 courses only - believes in doubling down on the Unique Selling Proposition (“USP”), wants to perfect courses vs. add more
People use them as a shorthand for quality, to calculate the quality to price ratio (“QPR”)
People requested it, and now it’s a service for readers
Passion is writing
Mobile app
Free to download
Scans front label and bar codes
Integrated liquor store pricing and inventory across the country (Canada) via API’s to provincial liquor control boards
Features - virtual cellar, wishlist, buy lists
US wines in Canada
CA, WA, OR, NY well represented
#1 export market for US wines
During Covid - premium wines (C$20+) have done well, benefiting US wines
Canadian wine palate - driven more towards cool climate wines, Canada’s heritage is beer and whiskey
Marketing Natalie’s brand
Built over 20 years, started the website in 2000
Started with the books (Red, White, and Drunk All Over; Unquenchable) - published by Randomhouse, book tour, Amazon’s bestseller list - led to broad reach and TV and other media appearances and “exploded” newsletter subscribers
Podcast a core channel now
Podcast listeners stay with you, and most listen 80-100% through
Podcast listeners and paid online courses have the strongest overlap
Leverage and cross-purpose content to broaden the reach to many channels
Podcast videos for FB Live
Social media - gets people over to newsletter or free wine and food pairing guide, low commitment, usually not paying
Nothing beats email
Always strives to deliver value first - drive to something free (e.g., free class/webinar), then promotes paid courses
What People Want from Fine Wine w/ Pauline Vicard, ARENI Global
14 Jul 2021
00:49:51
Getting at the heart of what consumers want is essential for any business, but a vastly understudied area in the world of fine wine. Pauline Vicard, Executive Director of ARENI Global, follows up her interview on Episode 28 and shares with us their latest research on the fine wine consumer - “The Future of Fine Wine Consumers 2021.” We explore the role of fine wine merchants, how and why consumers buy fine wine, and the key attributes of fine wine brands. The work covers the US, UK, China, and Hong Kong, and we discover the differences between consumers in each location. We even touch on diversity and inclusion in the fine wine world. An impactful, cornerstone interview to better understand the mindset of the fine wine consumer, a must listen!
Detailed Show Notes:
Pauline was the guest of Episode 28, where she shared findings from the 2019 research on the Fine Wine Consumer
ARENI is a global research and action institute dedicated to the future of Fine Wine. Creating conversation platforms for the Fine Wine ecosystem, ARENI brings together critical thinkers, from iconic Fine Wine producers to leading academics and business leaders, resulting in a well-researched, global and multi-disciplinary approach to a world undergoing change.
ARENI studies six main forces of change and regularly publishes on:
The Fine Wine Consumer: A Customer-Centric Approach
Changing Societies: Fine Wine Evolving Social framework
The Digital Economy and Transformative technology
Access to market: Towards new commercial routes
Sustainability 2.0: Acting now, thinking long term
Money: An Essential Force of Conflict
Wants to break traditional silos to share information and collaborate, including with other industries
Organizes think tank platforms and conducts research studies
ARENI publishes a bi-monthly, free newsletter. To keep in touch with their research, publications, and events, sign up.
Fine Wine Consumer Research
2019 - was more qualitative research
2020 - “The Future of Fine Wine Consumers 2021”
more quantitative research
Studied fine wine consumers in the US, UK, China, and Hong Kong
Definition of Fine Wine
Complex, balanced, potential to age
Produces emotions, reflects the winemaker’s intentions
Environmentally, socially, and financially sustainable (new part of the definition)
Price is not in the definition but used price brackets from La Place de Bordeaux for quantitative studies (€30+, €150+, €450+)
Consumers perceptions of fine wine
Perceive it more as brands/chateaux
The average fine wine consumer can name 2.5 wineries, most common ones - Lafite, Latour, and Petrus
Does not associate fine wine as much with country, grape variety, or type of wine
US consumers >35 know more brands than those <35
Fine wine merchants
Consumers very loyal to merchants, but not exclusive, tend to source from several
Have high expectations of merchants, want them to bring a diversity of wines and recommend new things
Key attributes: high customer service, pristine condition of wines, guarantee against fraud, want access to allocations and exclusive events, and easy delivery
Want access to the merchant through diverse communication channels but still have the human/personal touch
How consumers choose a fine wine
#1 - vintage (UK, China, Hong Kong)
Burgundy buyers use both vintage and producer
Scores are still important, but most people don’t follow specific critics or guide books, but they still use the scores as validation of the quality of the wine
Price is not a key driver
#3 factor - grape variety
The reputation of the brand and winery important
Least important factor - celebrity or influencer recommendations
Storytelling
Not as important as was expected, the wine’s story is not relevant for every fine wine consumer
Some want wines because of their status or what tastes the best
Why consumers buy fine wine
Intimate consumption was bigger than expected - wine as a treat for self and/or partner (US, UK)
Special occasions, formal social events (Hong Kong, China)
Gifting (China)
Formal wine tastings (UK)
Business occasions (China)
Food and wine pairing (particularly in China)
Fine Wine Consumer demographics
UK/US - 70% men, 30% women
China/Hong Kong - 50% men, 50% women
Women want to buy luxury
Millennial women are an important market
More young consumers (<35)
Fine wine investors
Non-collectors that invest mostly go through a 3rd party
Look at it as another financial asset, rarely take ownership of wine
Top attributes for fine wine brands
#1 - the capacity to age as wine evolves with time
#2 - high ratings from wine critics (the UK the lowest for this)
The reputation of a region of origin and producer
UK/US - complexity of taste
China/Hong Kong - scarcity important
Don’t really think of sustainability - assume wine is sustainable
Trade does think of sustainability - they are gatekeepers for consumers
Diversity and inclusion
“Fine wine is whiteness” was discovered in research - references to colonial terms for many countries (e.g., India, US)
The industry has little to lose by having more diversity
Diversity issues and systemic difficulties are different for different countries
Marketing to Millennials w/ Damien Wilson, Sonoma State University
07 Jul 2021
00:37:07
Part two of our interview with Damien Wilson, Hamel Family Chair of Wine Business at Sonoma State University, focuses on what wineries can do to align their brand, marketing messages, and how they sell wine to Millennials. From hospitality to various marketing channels, with social media, Damien provides examples of what works and tips on what to do. This episode also includes a “lightning round” where Damien and Peter discuss some of the major trends in wine marketing.
Detailed Show Notes:
Millennial Wine Buying - tips for wineries
Limits on brand loyalty/retention mean wineries need to make more customer acquisition
High price points will put off younger consumers
Low-end wine brands (e.g., Charles Shaw) are not targeting Millennials well - they appear to be more about consumption (e.g., Carlo Rossi jug wine, Bag in a Box brand) vs. Millennial values
Seltzer likely hitting a peak as the category is starting to fracture and fragment with many new brands and brand extensions
Hospitality best practices
We need to be better at the digital era
Wine industry good at talking about the product and quality (e.g., winemaking, terroir, product characteristics) but needs to know how to get people to the glass before what’s in the glass
Responses from wineries on social media are very slow or unresponsive
Good examples
Jason Haas of Tablas Creek in Paso Robles - very responsive, got back to Damien in 10 minutes of tagging, Jason responds himself
Randall Graham - remains relevant but admits to not figuring out how to make money from social media
Macrostie - has 12 different locations in their facility with different experiences - creates a reason for people to come back
Tagged 27 wineries on a trip to Paso Robles, and only 2 got back to him (1 of which was Tablas Creek)
Automated monitoring can help - so people get notified when activity occurs
Millennials have a strong attachment to people behind the brands and ones that reflect their values
Millennials ask questions, and they will tell you what they like
Marketing channels that work
Social media
Retail with smaller producers/experiences (e.g., Whole Foods showcases smaller producers and is more experiential shopping)
Marketing Lightning Round w/ Damien and Peter
Augmented Reality - “brilliant” according to Damien, cost of adoption is falling, e.g., 19 Crimes and Snoop Dog Rose
Natural / “Clean” wines - a way to premiumize lower-end wines with marketing; natural wine suffers from lack of consistency, making it harder to adopt; Clean wines - unsure if success is related to clean or celebrities that back them
Low/No Alcohol / No sugar wines - could work if they get people into the wine category, likely more a niche long-term
Celebrity wines - will likely grow but needs to be authentic - e.g., Kim Kardashian was behind a vodka brand but didn’t drink, which turned people off of the brand
Accelerating Wine Sales w/ Chemistry & AI w/ Kat Axelsson & Charles Slocum, Tastry
05 Jan 2025
00:58:03
Having “taught a computer how to taste” and using that data to help winemakers improve their processes, Tastry has turned to leveraging AI and their consumer preferences and wine chemistry databases to help wineries sell wine. Katerina Axelsson, CEO, and Charles Slocum, Chief Business Officer, discuss Tastry’s Sales Accelerator Ecosystem, which includes the Wine & Consumer Insights Report, which gives wineries, distributors, and retailers tools to help them sell more wine.
It has two unique data sets - wine chemistry, US consumer taste preferences
Helps improve winemaking, predict and react to changing consumer preferences
Works with wineries, retailers, and distributors
Tastry commercialization history
1st 2 years - establish trust with winemakers
Last year - focus on helping sell wines
Sales Accelerator Ecosystem
Takes data from 3 areas (winery input metadata, wine chemistry, Tasty validated wine market data) to feed accelerator (AI system)
Consists of Wine & Consumer Insights (“WCI”) report, Sales Accelerator platform app, & integrations into other platforms (e.g., e-RNDC)
Has AI search and chat functionality
Salespeople use data to sell to on/off-premise accounts
Sometimes, consumer-facing in-retailer displays
WCI - 2-page report to help sell wines
Used to train salespeople, it can be a leave-behind
P1 - for the category buyer; P2 - for servers, staff to educate them
WCI Components:
Top left - bottle shot, label zoom in (helps for retention); name of wine; varietal; appellation; price (what it is actually sold for in the market); wine category (AI curates category to be highest scoring on Tastry score)
Category Score - 200 point scale, 100 is average for the category
Not a critic score
>100 is better than the average, <100 less than average in terms of expected performance in its category against the Tastry consumer preference database (e.g., Cupcake Pinot Gris got a 181 score)
10,000s wines in database out of ~160k wines in the US
Never <15 wines in a category
Creating a new WCI for more rare and unique wines
Lower priced wines, terroir matters less; higher prices matter more
Tastry Notes - AI-generated tasting notes, breaks into average and more experienced drinkers
Segmented Consumer Appeal - insights into buyers of wine; if there’s at least an 85% match (roughly equates to Vivino’s 3.9-4.0 score or 88-90 critic score), consumers tend to notice they like the wine and will buy it again
Millennials & Wine w/ Damien Wilson, Sonoma State University
30 Jun 2021
00:42:46
With values and attitudes formed around the turn of the 21st century, Millennials want fulfilling careers, are more into environmental and social causes, and grew up in the social media era. Damien Wilson, Hamel Family Chair of Wine Business at Sonoma State University, explains who Millennials are, what drives their buying habits, and the brand loyalty of the group. This is the first part of a two-part series on marketing to Millennials.
Detailed Show Notes:
Damien’s background
Mid 1980’s - worked in grocery retail in wine & spirits
Early 1990’s - worked in hospitality as a wine steward
Consumer behavior - consumption patterns that lead to wine consumption
Digital marketing, tourism
Defining Millennials
Generational cohorts - they may change their name as certain experiences become the dominant characteristic of their values
Each cohort is distinct because of their experiences, which have information and directive influences
E.g., Silent (formerly Great) Generation - values were set during war years
Baby Boomers - the boom in population growth post-war
Gen X (used to be called latch key generation)
Gen Z (1997 onwards) - have no real memory of September 11th (2001), were initially called the “i -generation” because they were attached to their iPhones
Millennials
Originally set from the late ’70s (as early as 1976) to the early 80s birth years
Attitudes and values formed during the decades around the turn of the 21st century (1990s-2000s)
Millennial Values and Attitudes
Want a fulfilling career vs. a stable or secure career
Exhibit stronger support for social and environmental issues
Have the largest perceptual gap of their long-term vision vs. their initial reality - they had huge expectations of adulthood and were hit with reality (you start at the bottom) and the Global Financial Crisis
Lived in the social media era - see the extremes (people curated perfect lives)
Millennial Wine Buying
Wine buying is tightly correlated with economic status
Generational buying
Silent Generation - marked by frugality, drank less wine because it was more expensive
Baby Boomers - expressed interest in wine and shares with others, have been the driver behind the recent success of the wine industry, wine as a relatively inexpensive way to show success and luxury (e.g., Silver Oak success)
Gen X - eschews traditional brands, tried different things (e.g., led to the Rhone Rangers movement)
Millennials -
focus more on enjoyment and the collective vision of what wine means for their generation
want individualism, but also consume brands that are more representative of their group
Humor, innovative approaches, bohemian, off-kilter brands can be successful
Willing to accept something that reflects values and intent, even if not total wine specific, whereas the prior generation was more focused on the wine itself)
Receptive to sales and marketing messages as long as it is authentic to the brand
Buying pattern formative period in teen and early adult years, particularly for aesthetic consumption and will likely persist over time
Millennial brand loyalty
Brand loyalty starts with awareness - awareness of anything trumps lack of awareness which makes consumers start with a degree of brand loyalty
The pattern is repeated until people gain more comfort with products and they move to brand extensions
New wine consumers (e.g., Millennials) are still new to the category, still just learning what wine is
Proud of and support brands that support them (e.g., Supreme - streetwear); wines they drink are wines that support them and have brand loyalty to them (e.g., Buena Vista, Chateau Diana)
Perception of brand loyalty may be due to low wine club signup rate
Millennial wine spending habits
Spend 2x more than the grocery store average on wine
Highest spend per unit of any generation (high $20s - low $30s/bottle)
$10-15/bottle is the sweet spot in grocery/retail
Awareness key to buying wine
Napa has the greatest awareness of any US wine-growing region, which helps
Iconic wines to still do well due to brand awareness
Discovering Zinfandel w/ Carole Meredith, UC Davis & Lagier Meredith
23 Jun 2021
00:36:12
One of the world’s leading grape geneticists, Carole Meredith, Professor Emerita of UC Davis and owner of Lagier Meredith winery, has spent decades identifying and profiling grape varieties. It was so interesting that the interview has been split into two episodes. Episode 55 covers the background of Ampelography and DNA profiling as well as the definitions of key terms such as variety, clone, and hybrid. In addition, this episode features the stories of how she uncovered the history of Zinfandel (aka - Primitivo, Crljenak Kaštelanski, and Tribidrag) with Croatian researchers and how wineries use DNA profiling in wine marketing.
Detailed Show Notes:
Discovering Zinfandel
Zinfandel has a long history in California. People assumed it was a native California grape, but it is a Vitis Vinifera, so it must come from Europe
People suspected Croatia, but no evidence
In the 1970’s - people noticed that Primitivo in Italy’s Puglia looked like Zinfandel, and it was confirmed they are the same grape variety
Italians said the grape is not Italian and came from Dalmatia (modern-day Croatia)
Croatia
They looked at Plavac Mali - a popular red grape in Croatia. It looks similar to Zinfandel, but is not the same, but related
Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills Winery made some introductions to Croatia, but those were dead ends
1997 - Ivan Pejic of the University of Zagreb reached out and wanted to understand Croatian grapes better
After 3 years of gathering samples, they found it in a Croatian mixed vineyard (a grape named Crljenak Kaštelanski)
2001 - At the Natural History Museum in Split, Croatia - found a specimen called Tribidrag that looked like Zinfandel
Tribidrag was an important grape as far back as the 1300s
2011 - Croatian research group was able to extract DNA from dead leaves in the Split museum and confirm it was Zinfandel
Proves Zinfandel is an ancient grape with historical importance
Tribidrag is not an approved varietal name for wine in the US. Lagier Meredith uses it as a fanciful name for their label
Lagier Meredith sells mostly to their mailing list so that they can explain the history and the name to their customers
Ridge calls a wine Tribidrag, growing vines from Croatian cuttings, and wants to partner with Carole to get TTB to have Primitivo and Tribidrag as Zinfandel synonyms
US TTB shows Zinfandel and Primitivo as separate varieties
California Zinfandel producers opposed having Primitivo be a synonym because they didn’t want competition from lots of cheap Italian Primitivo
EU wine label regulations list Zinfandel and Primitivo as synonyms
2004 - US & EU sign an agreement on wine labeling to respect each other's laws, so now Italians can label their wines Zinfandel and export them to the US
DNA typing - business impacts
It has been a boost for Croatian producers, put them on the map, and now a wine tourism destination with people even visiting the vineyard where Zinfandel was discovered
Grape DNA Profiling w/ Carole Meredith, UC Davis & Lagier Meredith
16 Jun 2021
00:40:17
One of the world’s leading grape geneticists, Carole Meredith, Professor Emerita of UC Davis, and owner of Lagier Meredith winery, has spent decades identifying and profiling grape varieties. It was so interesting that the interview has been split into two episodes, this one about the background of Ampelography and DNA profiling as well as the definitions of key terms such as variety, clone, and hybrid. The second episode features how she uncovered the history of Zinfandel and how wineries use DNA profiling in wine marketing.
Detailed Show Notes:
Carole’s background
Worked part-time at a retail nursery, got into plant genetics, and wanted to be a flower breeder
Changed to doing a Ph.D. on tomato genetics at UC Davis
Worked in biotech for a few years on cotton, corn, and soybeans
She went into grapes because a position opened up at UC Davis
Ampelography - the study of grape identification before DNA testing
Grape varieties identified by their leaves, which vary distinctly, not by their fruit, which look similar
Before DNA testing, outside experts in Ampelography would often disagree with each other on grape identification
The upside of ampelography is that it’s very fast. Today grapes are usually first identified by ampelography and then confirmed with DNA testing
DNA testing for grapes
Started ~1991
Looks at segments of DNA to look at specific markers
Need a minimum of 6 markers to identify a variety and more to establish variety parentage
Vitis Microsatellite Consortium - a group of academics that came together to develop DNA markers for grapes
In 1-2 years, developed 100s of markers
Grape variety definition - used differently in trade or by scientists
Trade definition - grapes that make different wines (e.g., Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris) are different varieties
Scientific definition - a cultivated variety that goes back to a single seedling, scientifically, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are clonal variants of a single variety
Clones - variations within a variety
Clones are subtypes that have developed over time
Usually have something to do with the fruit (e.g., color variants like Traminer vs. Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir/Blanc/Gris)
Clones arise through somatic mutations of the variety
Older the variety (e.g., Pinot, Syrah) - more likely to have more clones
Young varieties (e.g., Cabernet Sauvignon) have fewer clones (<400 years old, likely a natural seedling in the early 1700s, and likely singled out to do late budding, which provided spring frost protection)
Some varietals (e.g., Pinot) are more likely to have mutations
People need to notice a difference (e.g., looser clusters which can have less bunch rot, early ripening, which avoids rainfall during harvest, or higher sugar levels for grapes like Riesling in cooler areas) and be preferentially chosen to plant new vineyards
ENTAV - an institution in France that systematically identifies and registers clones
In Chile, Jean-Michel Boursiquot, one of the world’s top ampelographers, identified that Chileans were calling Carmenere Merlot
Grape Families
A term with no scientific meaning
E.g., Muscat - “muscat” is a type of flavor; all current varieties likely descendants of a couple of ancient varieties
Every variety is descended from 2 parent varieties
Hybrids
Genetic/scientific definition of a hybrid is an offspring of 2 different parents of the same OR different species (e.g., Cabernet Sauvignon is technically a hybrid of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc)
Interspecific hybrid or cross is an offspring of parents from different species (e.g., hybrids of American and European grape varieties used to try and combat phylloxera)