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S01E22: “Mid-Tier Watches” - The Mighty Middle Episode for Mike!11 Jun 202600:42:54

What's up @Dumihed (Mike) on WatchCrunch, this episode is for you dude!

Bonus Episode (Season 1, secret Episode 22): “The Mighty Middle”

Spotify Description:

A man at a watch meetup apologized for his Hamilton, and this episode is the forty-five-minute rebuttal.

A fast, joyful tour of twenty mid-tier brands that punch absurdly above their weight: Longines, Certina, Mido, Hamilton, Frédérique Constant, Alpina, Oris, Nomos, Sinn, Damasko, Formex, Stowa, Marathon, Doxa, Kurono Tokyo, anOrdain, Furlan Marri, Baltic, Yema, and Raketa.

Real history, real engineering, honest prices, and one superpower per brand.

Tour route, not a ranking.

Never say “just.”

Bonus episode.

Keywords:

best value watches, mid-tier watch brands, Longines, Certina, Mido, Hamilton Khaki Field, Frédérique Constant, Alpina, Oris Calibre 400, Nomos Glashütte, Sinn, Damasko, Formex, Stowa flieger, Marathon GSAR, Doxa SUB 300, Kurono Tokyo, anOrdain enamel, Furlan Marri, Baltic watches, Yema, Raketa, affordable mechanical watches, watch podcast, watches under 2000

A twenty-brand tour of mid-tier watchmaking that punches above its weight.

Tour route, not a ranking.

Riste's Extended Show Notes...i.e. The Brands and Models Mentioned:

  1. ​Longines — Spirit Zulu Time, Legend Diver, HydroConquest, Ultra Chron, Master Collection
  2. ​Certina — DS Action Diver, DS PH200M
  3. ​Mido — Ocean Star, including COSC Caliber 80 versions; Ocean Star Tribute; Multifort; Baroncelli
  4. ​Hamilton — Khaki Field Mechanical, Ventura, Murph
  5. ​Frédérique Constant — Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, Slimline Moonphase
  6. ​Alpina — Alpiner 4, Startimer Pilot
  7. ​Oris — Aquis Calibre 400, ProPilot X, Divers Sixty-Five, Big Crown Pointer Date, Carl Brashear editions
  8. ​Nomos — Tangente, Orion, Metro, Club Campus
  9. ​Sinn — 556, 104, U50
  10. ​Damasko — DA36, DA38, DC56
  11. ​Formex — Essence Chronometer, Reef
  12. ​Stowa — Flieger Classic 40, Marine, Antea
  13. ​Marathon — GSAR, MSAR, Navigator
  14. ​Doxa — SUB 300, SUB 300T, Professional, Sharkhunter
  15. ​Kurono Tokyo — Chronograph 2, Mori, Calendrier
  16. ​anOrdain — Model 1, Model 2
  17. ​Furlan Marri — Mr. Grey, mechanical sector-dial line
  18. ​Baltic — Aquascaphe, Hermétique, Tricompax, MR01
  19. ​Yema — Superman, Rallygraf, Spacegraf
  20. ​Raketa — Big Zero, 24-hour polar watches
S01E13: Rexhep Rexhepi — The Refugee Who Became the Most-Watched Watchmaker Alive10 Jun 202600:44:41

Dropped Early for you Ethan! Hello to you all in Walla Walla dude!!!


Season 1 Episode 13 (Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi)

Title: Rexhep Rexhepi: The Refugee Who Became the Most-Watched Watchmaker Alive

Description:

Episode 13 of What’s on Your Riste? tells the extraordinary story of Rexhep Rexhepi; the Kosovan refugee who became one of the most respected watchmakers alive. From fleeing war at age twelve to earning a coveted apprenticeship at Patek Philippe, then working under François-Paul Journe before founding Akrivia at just twenty five, this episode explores the philosophy, discipline, and artistry behind modern independent watchmaking.

We dive deep into the legendary Chronomètre Contemporain (RRCC), Philippe Dufour’s praise of Rexhep’s work, the meaning of truly quiet luxury, and why some collectors believe Akrivia represents the apex of modern horology. This is the climax of the Rolex → Renaud & Papi → Rexhep trilogy...and a meditation on what it means to wear a watch nobody else recognizes, but you understand completely.


KEYWORDS:

Rexhep Rexhepi, Akrivia, Independent watchmaking, Luxury watches, Haute horlogerie, Watch collecting, Swiss watches, Chronomètre Contemporain, RRCC, RRCC II, Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, François-Paul Journe, Patek Philippe, Geneva watchmaking, Only Watch, Watch podcast, Horology, Watch enthusiast, Luxury timepieces, Mechanical watches, Grand feu enamel, Bombé finishing, Jean-Pierre Hagmann, Watchmaking history, Independent watch brands, Rolex vs independents, Quiet luxury, Collector watches, High horology, Watch community, Geneva watchmakers, Tourbillon, Deadbeat seconds, Watch collectors, The Hour Glass, Michael Tay, Kari Voutilainen, George Daniels, Modern watchmaking, What’s on Your Riste, Watchovski


S01E05: Mr. Jones Watches, Studio Underd0g, and Zelos: Three Brands Making the Most Fun Watches in the World05 May 202600:35:14

Let's have fun this week!

Mr. Jones Watches, Studio Underd0g & Zelos are covered this week...and a special fashion watch ;)...teased for episode 6...

Keywords: Studio Underd0g review, Studio Underdog watermelon, Zelos Hammerhead, Mr. Jones watches London, microbrand watches 2026, fun watches under $1000


S01E04: Why You Really Want a Submariner: The Decoy Effect, the Watch Industry's Trap, and Three Brands Operating Outside It (Yema, Horage, H. Moser)05 May 202600:40:56

The Decoy Effect...and an introduction into Yema, Horage and H. Moser & Cie.

Keywords: Yema Superman review, Yema micro-rotor, Horage K1 movement, H Moser Endeavour pre-owned, Moser Venturer 18kt gold, decoy effect

S01E03: The Watches That Made Me: A Stolen Collection, a 1940s Zenith Pilot's Chronograph, and the Watch Community That Helped Rebuild It04 May 202600:22:51

(Audio sucks at the start, (before music) sorry, re-recorded once I realized the episode didn't work without covering the horribel part...so I included it this time).

Last episode, I told you we'd talk about the watch that started it for me.

I want to be honest with you up front. This episode is going to be different. It's going to be more personal than I planned. There are some things I haven't really talked about publicly before, and I'm going to talk about them today — because I don't think this story works without them.

So. Take a breath. Pour something. Settle in.

This is the story of the watches that made me...

Keywords: vintage Zenith 143-6 Yugoslavian Air Force, Smiths Everest cream dial, Grand Seiko SBGF009 quartz, watch community stories, watches with sentimental meaning



S01E02: Beyond Rolex and Omega: Why Longines, Fears, Bovet, and Parmigiani Belong in Every Collection30 Apr 202600:34:00

Okay, so picture this. You’re at a party. Someone notices your watch. They go, ‘Oh nice, is that a Rolex?'

And you say, ‘No, actually, it’s a Bovet.’

(awkward silence)....Bow-whaatt?

Yeah...that's the conversation we're having today.


Keywords: The New Longines HydroConquest 2025 Plus the Independents That Should Be on Your Radar: Fears, Bovet, Parmigiani; Longines HydroConquest review, new HydroConquest 2025, Fears watches Bristol, Bovet 1822 review, Parmigiani Tonda PF


S01E01: "Welcome to the Rabbit Hole" (corrected audio)30 Apr 202600:16:22

If you listened to Episode 001 and were as frustrated with the music overlay (thanks Spotify and Riverside for deleting my voice breaks and throwing music over it), I think I've got it fixed here...but I'll leave the one with errors up just so we have the memories of my ignorance.


"Welcome to the Rabbit Hole"

S01E01: Watch Collecting for Beginners: Rolex, Patek, AP and the Independents Nobody Tells You About (Czapek, Laine, Dornbluth)

Quick question. And be honest with yourself.

How many times did you check your wrist today... even though you already knew what time it was?

Yeah. That's why you're here.

Keywords: watch collecting beginner, Rolex vs Patek vs AP, independent watchmakers, Czapek watches, Dornbluth, Laine watches

S01E00: Trailer02 Apr 202600:04:07

The trailer for: "What's on Your Riste: A Watch Podcast"

S01E12: The Renaud & Papi Diaspora: Greubel Forsey, the Grönefelds, and the French Sleeping Giant Almost Nobody Talks About04 Jun 202600:53:37

It’s the late 1990s. Le Locle, Switzerland. A small workshop in a town most Americans

couldn’t find on a map.

Inside that workshop, working on grand complications... minute repeaters, tourbillons,

perpetual calendars... there are a handful of young watchmakers sitting at adjacent

benches. Some are in their twenties. Some are in their thirties. Most of them are broke. Not

one of them is famous.

In about twenty years, the watches built by the people in that one workshop will sell for the

price of a house. The price of three houses. The price of an apartment building.

And almost every brand you’d consider the names of modern independent watchmaking...

almost every single one... will trace its origin to that single room.


Keywords: Renaud & Papi, Patek, Rolex, Greubel Forsey, the Grönefelds, Pequignet

S01E11: So Your Friend Wants a Rolex28 May 202600:51:02

Episode 11: So Your Friend Wants a Rolex

What do you say when your friend tells you they want a Rolex? In this episode, Watchovski has an honest, respectful conversation about Rolex, collecting, and the danger of letting other people’s taste shape your own watch journey. From the Submariner 14060M and Sea-Dweller 16600 to the Omega Seamaster Peter Blake, this episode explores why great watches still may not be your watches.

We talk about Rolex admiration, collector pressure, the difference between informing and redirecting, and why sometimes the best advice is simple: help your friend get the watch they actually want. Plus, a tease for Episode 12 on the Renaud & Papi diaspora and the future of independent watchmaking.

Keywords:

Rolex, Rolex Submariner, Rolex 14060M, Rolex Sea-Dweller, Rolex 16600, Rolex GMT-Master II, Rolex Pepsi, Rolex 16710, Rolex Explorer, Rolex 116000, Omega Seamaster, Omega Peter Blake, Omega 2254.50, Omega 2264.50, Steel Reef, watch collecting, watch collector, luxury watches, mechanical watches, Swiss watches, Rolex buying advice, first Rolex, should I buy a Rolex, authorized dealer, Rolex AD, watch enthusiast, independent watchmaking, microbrands, Grand Seiko, Tudor, Czapek, watch podcast, horology podcast, What’s on Your Riste, Watchovski, Renaud and Papi, Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Grönefeld, Pequignet, eudaimonia, hedonia, collector mistakes, watch community

S01E21*: The "Sharing Episode." Why We’re Like This: A Bonus Ep. for People Who Love Watch People26 May 202600:45:04

Description

A bonus episode of What's on Your Riste? — but this one isn't for watch people. It's for the people who love them anyway.

The partners who've rolled their eyes at the Christmas present. The parents who've been politely confused for two decades. The siblings, the friends, the coworkers who've sat through one too many monologues about lug width and movement finishing and finally asked, with real exasperation, why are you like this?

In about forty-five minutes, we try to answer honestly. The art — what it means that someone hand-polishes a piece of metal you'll never see. The history — three hundred years of an unbroken chain that began with a self-taught carpenter trying to keep sailors from drowning. The psychology — why collecting is one of the oldest things humans do, and what Aristotle figured out about pleasure that explains the whole hobby. The photographs you'll be in forever, and what gets to be on your wrist in them.

And the part almost nobody on the outside knows about: the community. A text group of people who would, statistically, disagree about almost everything else — different countries, generations, religions, politics — sitting down every day, for years, to pay attention to the same small beautiful object together. The watches are the excuse. The people are the point.

No prior knowledge required. No jargon without translation. Just us, trying to explain ourselves, gently, to the people who've asked.

Send this to the person in your life who keeps wondering. We made it for them.

Keywords:

watch collecting, why watches, watch hobby, mechanical watches, wristwatch, non-watch people, explaining the hobby, watch community, watch enthusiasts, horology for beginners, shokunin, craftsmanship, heirloom watches, wedding watch, eudaimonia, hedonia, Aristotle pleasure, Patek Philippe generations, luxury watch culture, watch text group, watch meetups, collecting psychology, John Harrison marine chronometer, Omega Speedmaster moon, hand-finished movements, guilloché, patina, wrist presence, grail watch, watch podcast bonus episode, what's on your riste, watchovski, what's on you riste


S01E10: Hedonia & Eudaimonia: Why Some Watches Make You Happy, and Others Make You … “You”21 May 202600:34:23

Episode 10 — Description

Hedonia & Eudaimonia: Why Some Watches Make You Happy, and Others Make You You

Aristotle laid out the framework 2,400 years ago. Watchovski applies it to your wrist.

Today's episode is the philosophy episode the watch community has been quietly circling for years without naming. Two ancient Greek words... hedonia (short-term pleasure, joy, the dopamine hit) and eudaimonia (deeper meaning, identity, human flourishing) ... explain almost every watch decision you'll ever make.

Why a Studio Underd0g Watermel0n is a perfectly legitimate purchase. Why a watch you inherited carries a weight no review can capture. Why a collection made of only fun pieces eventually feels empty; and why a collection made of only meaningful pieces becomes a shrine you're afraid to wear. Plus the sneaky third trap most collectors fall into: mistaking someone else's eudaimonia for their own... buying watches because other collectors told you they "should" be meaningful, and waiting for the meaning to arrive on your wrist while it stubbornly refuses.

Includes a listener prompt: which watches in your collection live where on the spectrum, and which direction are they moving? Send your stories for a future community episode.

Coming next: Episode 11 : So Your Friend Wants a Rolex.

Keywords:watch collecting · hedonia · eudaimonia · Aristotle · watch philosophy · collector vs speculator · meaningful watches;why we buy watches · Studio Underd0g · Mr. Jones Watches · independent watchmaking · watch psychology · luxury watch buying decision · watch collecting framework · how to choose a watch; what makes a watch meaningful · watch as identity · should I buy this watch · hobby philosophy watches · how to build a watch collection · why I sold my watch · watch collector mistakes

watch collecting podcast 2026

SEO Keywords (Spotify)

S01E09: Watch Stories - Dornblüth & Sohn: Father, Son, and the Quietest Workshop in Haute Horlogerie12 May 202600:46:04

Another Episode of Watch Stories!


There is a small village in central Germany called Kalbe.

You have not heard of it. There’s no real reason you would have. Seventy-five hundred

people live there. There is no famous restaurant. The most prominent landmark is the ruins

of a ninth-century castle. The town doesn’t show up on any tourism map.

And in a modest two-story house with a pointed gable, on a quiet street, with a small creek

running through the property and apple and plum trees in the yard...there is a workshop.

Nine people work there. They make somewhere between one hundred and twenty and one

hundred and eighty watches per year. Total.

You have probably never heard of them either.

This is the story of why that’s a problem.


Keywords: Independent Watchmaking, Germany, Kalbe, Dornbluth, Dornblueth & Sohn, Unitas

S01E08: Watch Stories - Czapek: The Watchmaker Who Founded Patek Philippe (and the Story Almost Nobody Tells)12 May 202600:43:32

What if I told you that one of the founders of Patek Philippe — the Patek Philippe, the most

prestigious watch brand in the world — got pushed out, in a bitter falling-out, one hundred

and eighty years ago — and that his original brand was completely forgotten for over a

century — and that ten years ago, a small team in Geneva resurrected his name and started

making watches again, and most people in this hobby still have no idea who he is?

That’s our episode today.

This is the story of Czapek — CHAP-eck — the watchmaker who founded Patek, and the

modern brand bringing his name back from the dead.


Keywords: Czapek, Patek, Independent Watchmaking, Collective Horology, Oster, SXH5

S01E07: Living With a Collection: Storage, Security, and the Stuff Nobody Wants to Talk About12 May 202600:34:04

This episode is going to make some of you uncomfortable. It’s going to ask you to look at

your collection ...your beautiful, considered, lovingly curated collection... and think about it

the way someone trying to take it would think about it.


That is not a fun mental exercise.


This is the conversation I wish someone had with me before I lost everything.


Keywords: Storage, Collections, Break In, Theft, Robbery, Security, Incurance for Watch Collections

S01E06: Vintage Cartier Pasha Seatimer, Omega Pre-321, and Why Piaget and Girard-Perregaux Are Underrated05 May 202600:41:26

The Vintage-ish Episode... Omega, Ardath, Cartier, Piaget, Chopard & GP

Keywords: how to buy vintage watches, Frankenwatch, vintage Cartier Pasha Seatimer, Omega 2279 pre-321, vintage Piaget, vintage Girard-Perregaux, service dial vs original

How to Buy Vintage Watches Without Getting Burned: Frankenwatches, Service Dials, and the 10-Point Checklist


S01E23 Bonus Episode for Nate: “Between the Words:" Mühle-Glashütte and Lip (of Besançon)20 Jun 202600:30:16

*This one is for my watch brother from another mother in Idaho*


Description


Bonus Episode: Bonus Episode for Nate: “Between the Words:" Mühle-Glashütte and Lip (of Besançon)


…I goofed with the “lip” and “nose” line, you’ll catch it, but I don’t want to re-record, so here we are…I’ve accepted my imperfections, you should not ;)


Let’s get into it…in 3rd person because is sounds fancier.


A listener once told Watchovski that he keeps listening because he can hear what the show isn’t saying. So this bonus episode follows that thread into two watches whose deepest meaning lives in silence.


First, Mühle-Glashütte... the quiet one in Germany’s loudest watchmaking town. A family-run maker that could talk endlessly about pedigree, but instead points toward the sea, search-and-rescue crews, and watches built for the people who come for you when things go wrong.


Then, Lip ... the great French watchmaker whose most immortal moment came not from a complication, a celebrity wrist, or a luxury campaign, but from the workers who occupied the factory in 1973, restarted production themselves, and declared: we make them, we sell them, we pay ourselves.


One silence is humble. One silence is radical. Both point to the same truth: the watch was never really about the wrist that wears it.

A very sincere tip of the hat to Nate from Idaho, whose suggestion gave this episode its shape — and who clearly knows how to listen between the words.


Keywords:

Mühle-Glashütte, Muhle Glashutte, Lip watches, What’s On Your Riste, Watchovski, Between the Words, watch podcast, horology podcast, German watches, French watches, Glashütte, Besançon, Mühle S.A.R. Rescue-Timer, SAR Rescue Timer, German Maritime Search and Rescue Service, woodpecker-neck regulation, tool watches, family-owned watch brand, Lip Mach 2000, Roger Tallon, Lip R27, electric watches, 1973 Lip factory occupation, French labor history, watchmaking history, vintage watches, independent watchmaking, underappreciated watch brands, watch culture, horology, mechanical watches, meaningful watches, watches with stories, Nate from Idaho, WatchCrunch


S01E14: A Reset Button - The Tool Watch Episode (G-Shock, Citizen, Seiko, Marathon, CWC, Sinn, Tudor, Damasko & Hamilton)18 Jun 202600:58:52

Episode 14: “A Reset Button — The Tool Watch Episode”


Special Thanks to Vuk Radic at ItsAboutTime (https://www.itsabouttime.email)….check out his amazing watch newsletter!!! Solid, up to date new releases and awesome “Easter Eggs” he throws in on every update. One of the few Newsletters I sign up for and I encourage listeners to do the same!


Ok, about this week…


After a four-episode philosophical arc on the deep end of independent watchmaking—Rolex, the Renaud & Papi diaspora, Rexhep Rexhepi, and more—Watchovski hits the reset button.


Six full brand segments climb from $50 to $4,000+ through the world of actual tool watches:


* G-Shock — the watch that made the category, including the 5610 Square, the GW-M5610 Solar Atomic, and the GA-2100 “Casioak.”

* Citizen Promaster — carrying on the Eco-Drive solar tradition, including the BN0150 “Fugu” and the Aqualand.

* Seiko Prospex — featuring the SKX, Turtle, Monster, Sumo, and the modern SPB-series.

* Marathon Watch Company — the Canadian defense contractor behind the GSAR and MSAR, known for genuine tritium tubes and currently supplying watches to U.S. and Canadian military forces.

* CWC (Cabot Watch Company) — the British Ministry of Defence supplier that replaced the Rolex MilSub for the Royal Navy in 1980, with the SBS Diver still issued to British special forces today.

* Sinn Spezialuhren — the apex of German engineering, featuring Tegiment Technology, Ar-Dehumidifying Technology, the 856 daily wearer, the U-series submarine steel divers, and the UX GSG 9, issued to German federal counter-terror operators.


Plus honorable mentions for the Tudor Pelagos FXD (commissioned by the French Marine Nationale), Damasko, and the Hamilton Khaki Field.


The Thesis:

Tool watches are the reset button. The watches you don’t take off. The watches

whose value lives in what they let you stop thinking about. Not lesser watchmaking...

different watchmaking, in service of a different relationship to time.


Keywords:

Mentioned in this episode: Casio G-Shock DW-5610, GW-M5610, GA-2100 (“Casioak”),

Kikuo Ibe, Citizen Promaster BN0150 (“Fugu”), Aqualand, Skyhawk, Eco-Drive, Seiko

SKX007/009, SRP777 (“Turtle”), Seiko Monster, Sumo, Samurai, SPB-series, 6R movements,

Marathon GSAR/MSAR/Navigator/JSAR, tritium H3 gas tubes, CWC SBS Diver, CWC G10,

Royal Navy MilSub history, Sinn 556, 856, U1, U50, UX GSG 9, Tegiment Technology, Ar-

Dehumidifying Technology, Helmut Sinn (callback to Ep 9), Lothar Schmidt, Tudor Pelagos

FXD, French Marine Nationale, Damasko, Hamilton Khaki Field H-50.

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