Ungrafted – Détails, épisodes et analyse

Today I speak with François de Nicolay from Domaine Chandon de Briailles in Savigny-les-Beaune, Burgundy. The 14 hectare biodynamic domaine started experimenting with spraying with skim milk instead of sulfur against powdery mildew in 2013. Powdery mildew (oidium in French) is a major fungal disease that affects vitis vinifera worldwide by decreasing grape quality and yield.  

Francois talks about how milk works as a preventative and curative measure, as well its advantages and disadvantages.  

@chandon.de.briailles

Brian McClintic is an ex Master Sommelier who worked at the Little Nell in Aspen and starred in the SOMM documentary films. Brian launched Viticole Wine in 2016, a wine club for which he collaborates with organic wine and cider producers around the world on custom bottlings.  

Today I speak with Brian about fermented beverages of the future, including multiple fruit ferments and herbal infusions. We also chat about regenerative agriculture, racism, and how to make our lives and businesses more sustainable with glass bottle recycling, homesteading, and B Corp certification.

Instagram @brianbmcclintic @viticolewine

Today, we celebrate #Regenuary with Jordan Lonborg, viticulturist of Tablas Creek.  Tablas Creek farms 120 acres of Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, California.  They were certified organic in 2003.  They have been farming biodynamically since 2010, and received their biodynamic certification in 2017.  They are the first Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) winery by the Regenerative Organic Alliance, established in 2017.  The 3 main pillars of the ROC include soil health, animal welfare, and farmworker fairness.  ROC aims to sequester carbon in the soils that would otherwise be released in the atmosphere, and helps combat climate change.  ROC requires minimal irrigation with the idea that healthy soils need less water.

Jordan and I talk about these 3 pillars, including regenerative farming, climate change, tilling, carbon sequestration, cover crops, mob grazing, bees, compost and biochar, and lastly, animal and worker welfare.

Instagram: @tablascreek

Website: tablascreek.com

Today, I speak with Zach Lawless, founder of Good Goods, a bottle return program where you bring back your empty wine bottles to participating wine stores in exchange for credits towards future wine purchases.  A bottle of wine’s biggest carbon footprint is the manufacturing of the glass bottle.  In the Good Goods program, the bottles are reused instead of recycled--recycling a bottle saves 7% in carbon emissions whereas reusing a bottle saves 52%.

Zach and I talk about his market research with the glass milk bottle reuse programs, how the Crying Indian Campaign helped people recycle more, and how the current situation with recycling is not as good as it should be.

Instagram: @_thegoodgoods.co_

Website: thegoodgoods.co

Jasmin Swan of Katla Wines, is a new negociant from the “Alt Mosel", a term she coined for the new faces making wines with diverse approaches in the Mosel Valley.  Today, I interview Jas about her journey from sommelier in Iceland to winemaker in Germany.  Specifically, we chat about the use of PIWI’s as part of sustainable agriculture.  

PIWIs are hybrids-varieties made by crossing 2 different Vitis species-- bred specifically for their fungus resistant capabilities.  This means that they require less spraying, therefore less costs, less tractor emissions, and less soil compaction.  Finally, Jas and I talk about the market reception of PIWIs and her future projects.

Instagram: @terroirmerroir

Today we will be broaching a subject that might make you uncomfortable--the relationship between alcohol and cancer. The reason for this discussion is personal; I was diagnosed with breast cancer this October. The causes of breast cancer are debated, but it is pretty clear that alcohol does not help. So how do I continue a life now devoted to wine? What is a suitable balance between my passion and its risks? The opinions of doctors vary considerably on the subject.  

Today, I welcome Amy Christine, Master of Wine, owner of Holus Bolus winery, and sales representative in Los Angeles for Kermit Lynch. Amy wrote an insightful and personal article about her journey with breast cancer, which is included in the episode’s notes.  We are joined by Pat Farrell, Master of Wine and Doctor of Medicine. Our conversation will highlight some research on the causes of certain cancers, including alcohol.  

Please be aware that what we discuss is for informational purposes only. Everyone is different, everyone’s family history is different, it is important that you consult your own doctor for medical advice.  

Amy's article: https://www.imspeakingwine.com/writings/wineandcancer

Instagram: @holusboluswine @acloveswine

Website: https://www.thejoyfantastic.com/

https://www.mastersofwine.org/patrick-farrell-mw

In an October 2020 New York Times article, Julia Moskin shared accounts of sexual harassment and assault of 21 women at the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas.  She wrote a follow up article, where the Chairman of the Court, Devon Broglie, stepped down amidst sexual misconduct allegations of his own.  Many sommeliers, wine professionals, and some Master Sommeliers were vocal about their outrage and much-needed changes.  Alpana Singh is one of them.  At 26, she became the youngest female and only South Asian to pass the rigorous Master Sommelier test.  Her impressive resume doesn’t end there.  She is the host of the Emmy-award winning TV Show “Check Please” on Chicago’s PBS station and the owner of 3 restaurants. Today, Alpana and I talk about her rocky 20+ year history with the Court, what changes are needed, why she gave up her Master Sommelier title, advice she has for younger wine professionals, and how this experience influenced her professionally and personally.

Instagram: @alpanasingh

Website: www.alpanasingh.com

We speak with grower Mathieu Lapierre from Domaine Marcel Lapierre about the use of microscopes to monitor yeasts, bacteria, and other microorganisms during vinification. He also discusses the different methods he uses when issues arise.  

In the 1960s, Beaujolais négociant, researcher, and father of natural winemaking Jules Chauvet and Paul Bréchot used the microscope to monitor alcoholic fermentation in order to make wine more naturally and reduce the use of sulfur dioxide during vinficiation.  They passed on this knowledge to Renée Boisson, who is the microbiologist of a group of Beaujolais winemakers called the Gang of Four, which included Mathieu's father, Marcel. 

Instagram: domainelapierre

Today we speak to winemaker Diana Snowden Seysses about carbon capture and re-use at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy.

Carbon is essential for life. There are pure forms of carbon such as diamonds and combined forms such as CO2, which makes up the majority of greenhouse gases —around 80%.   

Although they are not the biggest contributors to greenhouse gases, emissions produced as a by-product of wine fermentation are 5 times more concentrated than those of cars or planes. Instead of letting this gas get released into the air, we have the option to trap it and turn it into something useful.

Instagram @dianasnowsey @snowdenvineyards

We speak to Professor Benjamin Bois from the University of Burgundy about climate change and viticulture.

In Burgundy, harvesting in August is the new normal. Indeed, there have been 7 vintages with August harvest dates since 2003.  However, some questions remain.  How will this warming trend continue?  What about rain, frost, hail, and diseases? And what about some of the proposed strategies to combat climate change such as using different varieties and rootstocks?