Explorez tous les épisodes du podcast Two Drinking Buddies in Tokyo

Any trip to Japan would not be complete without a taste of some Japanese sake or nihonshu. Where can you do some shopping and then hop into a sake bar with a very knowledgeable host? Where can you see an artsy shop interior and sip milky grape sake? And where can you bring your own nibbles and try 100 types of sake? Find out all we know about sake and what we love about it!

A lot of people come to Tokyo to shop. And a popular destination for trendy clothing is United Arrows. Did you know that United Arrows has a bar? A trendy, dandy bar! Sip a Japanese whiskey cocktail with well-dressed bartenders and clientele. Then mosey on over Hobo Shinjuku, which means “almost Shinjuku” where there are a myriad of neon-lit places to eat and drink the night away. And how do most Japanese finish the night? With a trip to the local karaoke shop of course!

Let loose with salary workers over a selection of hard-to-find sake at Suzuden in Yotsuya. Trek through a Shibuya neighborhood of retro love hotels to enjoy a Danish pint at Mikkeller. And find out how purple potato salts can complement your cocktail at Bar Trench in Ebisu!

Two completely different experiences on opposite ends of Tokyo, but you’ll love them both. Vibrant Bistro Shin will get you excited about eating elk within close quarters of your fellow reveling patrons. Take some time to walk around Arakicho before heading into Yotsuya KokuteIu (‘Cocktail’) for some whiskey and wine… Well, not so much wine, leave the wine list to Bistro Shin!

Explore the history of literary greats drinking at Donzoko in Shinjuku. Taste one of the first craft breweries in Japan – born out of a fish market no less! And pick your favorite bottle of wine and frozen junk food at Yamamoto Shoten in Ebisu – our favorite way to end a night of drinking!

Nearby the Tokyo Tower? Consider back-alley drinking in Tamachi! Feeling the munchies after your first round of drinks? Give one of the ubiquitous Conas a try! Thirsty for a craft beer away from the hustle and bustle of Shinjuku? Say yes to YYG!

Have you ever visited a Japanese izakaya before? These lively establishments are the lifeblood of Japan’s eating and drinking scene, and provide a peak into the country’s unique social and drinking culture.

1. Irasshai! Irrasshaimase! いらっしゃい！いらっしゃいませ！
Don’t run out by the loud voices welcoming you into the izakaya! This is a typical greeting you will get when entering an izakaya. It often signifies the level of customer service you’ll get. The louder the better! Once the staff greet you, just bow your head slightly in acknowledgement and hold up your fingers to show how many people are in your party.

2. Toriazeu nama! とりあえず生！
This will make you sound like a local. It means, “A draft beer to start!” Many Japanese people – thirsty after a hard day’s work or from strolling around the busy streets – will start with a beer to quench that thirst. Most izakayas will have a “house” draft beer (e.g. Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, Ebisu). Oh, they are all so good, though our fav is Ebisu. Some locals will only go to izakayas where their nama/draft beer of choice is on tab. You can say, “Toriaezu nama” and then hold up your fingers to show how many namas you want (as you’ve noticed, fingers to indicate quantity are quite handy)!

3. Otōshi お通し
There are many tourists who come to Japan and are surprised (and perhaps slightly miffed) to see a charge for otōshi on their bill at the end of their fab izakaya experience. Otōshi is basically a cover charge, which can range from 200 to 500 yen. In return for this charge, izakayas will often serve a small dish when you get settled at your table. These are usually yummy – edamame, some soy-sauce simmered delight perhaps, macaroni salad, or sometimes popcorn at more casual joints. Tip: if you don’t want the otōshi, you can sometimes decline this and get the charge waived, but most people don’t do this. Think of it as a service charge. There is no tip in Japan, so we often consider the otōshi in place of that!

4. Sumimasen! すみません！
This is a handy phrase to remember. It literally means “Sorry!” and is the way to get the server’s attention. If you need another beer or need the menu again just say, “Sumimasen!” The servers will then jaunt over to you. Some larger izakaya chains will have a handy buzzer at your table, which you can also use to call your server. It always reminds me of the episode of Curb Your Enthusiasm where Larry wanted a bell for servers. Well this is it!

5. Cash is king/queen
While Japan is beginning to catch up to the rest of the world in terms of digital payments, it is still primarily a cash-based society. There are many izakayas, especially small ones, which will only take cash. Credit card companies still charge quite a hefty percentage for services, and some izakayas just opt not to use them. Remember to have some cash on hand when you go to izakayas, and if you forget, just swing to the nearest convenience store, where there is usually an ATM.

6. Smoking
Smoking is now banned in most izakayas in major cities like Tokyo. However, some small eateries continue to allow smoking, and as you get further away from the capital, the most places you will find that allow you to light up. If you’re a smoker, you should look out for the small green sign that designates a smoking-only establishment. But as the times are changing, more and more restaurants and bars are now non-smoking.

7. Nomihodai 飲み放題
Nomihodai, or free-flow, all-you-can-drink plans are very popular in Japan, so if you like drinking a lot during an allotted time, then check to see if your izakaya has a nomidai plan by asking, “Nomihodai arimasuka – 飲み放題ありますか？” These plans are usually 1 or 2 hours, and the izakaya will give you a menu of drink that are on the nomihodai plan – usually draft beer, simple cocktails, and house wines. Happy hours can be harder to come by, but some izakayas do offer happy hour from their opening hour to about 6 or 7 pm.

8. Tachinomi 立ち飲み
Tachinomi are basically standing bars. After a long day at work or walking around Tokyo, the prospect of having to stand while drinking may not sound appealing, but please give it a try! You will have noticed that Japan likes to fit shops into small spaces. This means that you’ll find wonderful hole-in-the-wall joints all around Tokyo. Tachinomi are usually bustling after work with salary workers either just starting their night of drinking or finishing it off. The small quarters means that you might encounter a chummy Japanese patron wanting to make some chitchat, as it’s easier to make conversation standing within those small confines than across tables in a larger restaurant.

9. Otsumami おつまみ
Nibbles while drinking, or otsumami おつまみ, are a staple of any drinking establishment in Japan. Drinking in Japan is always paired with eating! What a delight! So you will always find something to nibble on. These are usually small dishes, like tapas. Edamame (or boiled soybeans in their pod) are the most popular otsumami. But you will also find lots of fried nibbles (french fries, fried chicken or kara-age 唐揚げ) as well as healthier options like raw cabbage or raw cucumbers with miso (soybean paste). It may sound strange, but try it!

10. Dietary restrictions
Please check out our handy translation sheet for dietary restrictions. It can be somewhat difficult to navigate izakayas when you have dietary restrictions, but there should be something for everyone! As noted under otsumami, there are quite a few vegetarian options. Also ask if they have any vegetable tempura (野菜天ぷら).

11. Okaikei お会計
You can say, okaikei when you’re ready for the bill. The global signal if signing a check usually works as well. Or the Japanese version is to cross your fingers in an X, which signifies that you are finished. No need to tip, but you may see a cover charge as we’ve mentioned in #3 (otōshi). Sometimes izakayas will just give you one total number on a piece of paper without any details. If you want to see all the details to check the bill, ask for a meisaisho (明細書) and the restaurant should oblige.

12. Gochisousama ごちそうさま
Gochisousama is a typical phrase you say to the restaurant staff as you leave the restaurant. If you enjoyed your meal, please say goshisousama to the staff on your way out. They will love it! It basically means, “Thank you for the meal” and shows your appreciation. It’s a nice way to end your izakaya experience.

With these tips, we hope you visit as many izakayas as your tolerance and tummy allows! Many Japanese people will visit 2 or 3 in one night or as we call it hashigo (はしご) or barhopping!

We’re very excited to be back to drinking Tokyo! And it’s lovely to see so many tourists back in Japan. We hope everyone can enjoy the izakayas, bars, and restaurants Japan has to offer!