The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast – Détails, épisodes et analyse

Coach Alex Stiger describes a 3-month slump she was in, how she methodically got out of that slump, and how she coaches her clients to get re-motivated when they've lost their psych for climbing. 

Zoe Sayetta is a youth and adult climbing coach in New York and she has her masters in sport psychology. She loves working with youth, especially on their mindset, and she has a private practice as a sport psychology coach for youth and adults. I asked her to be on the show so we could talk about the most common things she sees in her team and her clients and how she helps them all have a healthier, more productive mindset in climbing.

Here’s what we talked about:

• How to foster growth mindset vs fixed mindset
• How to deal with emotional regulation in teens
• How to teach kids (or anyone) to try hard
• Productive vs unhealthy self-talk
• How to coach someone to want success but not identify with it
• Social comparison
• Imposter syndrome
• Using visualization for physical and emotional practice
• Lots more

This is a replay of an episode that originally aired in January, 2023. I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that.

She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that.

While you might predict that strength training is one of the main tools Alex uses with her clients in this situation, it is not, as she says it is very rare to find a person who is climbing 5.11 who can not climb 5.12 with the strength they already have.

So while we spend a few minutes talking about strength training, you’ll find compelling evidence in this episode that that may not be your issue. Here are some of the other topics we discuss:

• Why technique and staying calm are so important
• Honing the skill of resting
• How to decrease intimidation of the grade
• How to learn from your falling experiences
• How to have more of a competition mindset
• What to climb on in the gym if you’re trying to send 5.12
• A better alternative to having a perfect pyramid before entering into 5.12 territory
• Why repeating climbs that are sort of hard for you is an important strategy

We talk about a lot in this episode, and I highly recommend it if you’re at the 5.10 or 5.11 level, or if you’re just not consistently climbing 5.12’s and you’d like to. Even if you are climbing 5.12’s consistently, I think a lot of her tactics will help you!

• Get the 5.12 Breakthrough Series AND the Steep Climbing Workshop for 30% Off
• Work with Alex as your coach
• Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com

Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017.

Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases.

In the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that’s a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you’re just trying to send hard stuff.

These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it.

At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on Patreon.

If you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.

• What is a performance phase?
• Matt’s 3 tips
  • HAVE a performance phase
  • Be ready to put the work in
  • Do prep work away from the crag to maximize your climbing days

• My 5 tips (it was supposed to be 3, but I couldn’t help myself)
  • Prioritize rest on a macro and micro level
  • Fuel properly on climbing and rest days
  • Balance mental health with sending
  • Plan your goals, trips, and partners way in advance
  • Redpointing tactics

• Nourish: A Self-Paced Nutrition Program for Climbers
• Bouldering Program (Levels 1-3) to help you maintain strength during a performance phase
• Get more episodes every month on Patreon
• Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Photo of Dru Mack by Matt Pincus @mpincus87

In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour.

Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years.

I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I’m a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who’s been working exclusively with climbers since 2014.

In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she’s a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I’m going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on.

Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I’m back and I’m psyched! You’ll be seeing more episodes every month now that I’m re-stoked. I’ll explain more in the episode.

If you’re interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.

• How to work hangboarding in with a climbing session
• What the deal is with intermittent fasting and climbing/training
• An example meal for a rest day
• On-the-wall exercises to increase finger strength
• Maintaining fitness during a vacation
• How to train lockoffs

• Join Alex’s new Team Program!
• Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com

Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles.  She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the “season” of pregnancy.

Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach.  She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two!

• Important things to know as pregnant athlete
• Strengthening the deep core, diaphragm, and pelvic floor to support your body during pregnancy
• General overview on what to expect during each of the trimesters
• Importance of staying empowered and focusing on what you can be doing – which is a lot
• Considerations while climbing to help minimize additional pressure on an already strained system
• What is diastasis and how new research is helping women get back to strengthening the core sooner
• Mindset considerations and potential hurdles plus insight on how to stay focused on your own journey
• Pelvic Floor PT’s and why you should have one as part of your team
• How our bodies are incredibly resilient and how pregnancy does not mean your athletic career and goals will be limited

• Instagram @calliejoyblack
• Email:  joy@trainedbyjoy.com

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

• At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid
• Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching
• For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
• For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program.

In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.  By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best.  He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.  

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad.  His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions.  While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Other Episodes with Tyler

• TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
• TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
• TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
• TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
• TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
• TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
• TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
• TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
• TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries

• How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn’t do on a hangboard
• How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time
• Results he’s seeing with clients
• General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger
• When to do this during training/performance cycles
• General hangboarding questions answered
• What forms of training he would love to see go extinct
• The importance of appropriate training load
• Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue

• Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
• Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
• Do a consultation with Tyler
• Instagram: @c4hp
• Facebook: @camp4chiropractic

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

• At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid
• Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching
• For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
• For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
• Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
• All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide.

Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course.

In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long.

On Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body’s specific needs. It’s completely free, and even if you can’t make the live calls we’ll send the recordings out to you.

• Day 1: Tracking your period + How to plan your week
• Day 2: Myths about Women’s Strengths and Weaknesses + Workout
• Day 3: Female mindset – how hormones affect our performance mindset + tools to still perform our best
• Day 4: How (and when) Women Should Strength Train + Workout
• Day 5: How to use goals to create a map for success

To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below.

• Why we can’t train like small men
• How changes in our hormones throughout the month can guide our training
• Being in denial about being a woman in sport
• How we can do better as women and as coaches
• How everything she knew about her menstrual cycle was in hindsight before
• Myths she’s held as a woman
• Fear and pain sensitivity the week before period

• Join the Challenge for Free
• Instagram: @alex.stiger

Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she’s learned to effectively do both at the same time.

She’s had some great success with her clients, many of whom don’t have much time for training, so she lets us in on some tips for how to train when you’re super busy with other stuff. This one is full of little nuggets of wisdom that you can apply to your life right now, and Lauren’s excitement and passion for climbing is infectious. I really enjoyed talking with her.

She’s offering $100 off her new Crush It: Sport Climbing training program right now. Or you can check out her other services on her site.

• Going from corporate world to full-time climbing coach
• How to ski and train for climbing at the same time
• Minimalist finger strength training success stories
• Tips for busy climbers on how to fit training into schedule
• The biggest lessons she’s learned through coaching people

• www.goodsprayclimbing.com
• Instagram: @goodspraycoaching
• Her new sport climbing training program

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing.

• Befriending Fear
• Performance Climbing
• Rock-Life Balance
• Art of Attention
• Successful Climbing Goals
• Yoga for Climbers

They’re offering 10% off for TrainingBeta listeners using the code “trainingbeta10” and you can find more about the event in the link below:

I wanted to ask them about the basics of what they’ll be teaching at the retreat, so I asked all 3 of them to be on the show. All of these topics are so relevant to all of us, but we focused a lot on finding balance in your life while also being passionate about climbing.

Please visit their website to find out more about what they teach and about the retreat at www.climbwell.co.

• What people will get out of the retreat
• Finding balance in your life while being passionate about climbing
• Dealing with fear in climbing
• Wheel of Life Coaching Tool
• Climbing as an addiction – how to find balance
• How are values can guide our actions appropriately
• Visualization practice
• How to find happiness
• How to stop being so black and white about climbing and life in general

• ClimbWell Retreat (Use “trainingbeta10” for 10% off): www.climbwell.co/retreat
• Climbwell Website: www.climbwell.co
• Gaby’s personal website: www.gabycolletta.com
• Remy’s personal website: www.remyfranklin.com
• Blake’s personal website: www.startyourpivot.com
• Instagram: @climbwell.co
• Remy’s 1st interview on TrainingBeta

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…

• Personal Coaching Online
• For Boulderers of All Abilities
• For Route Climbers of All Abilities
• Finger Strength 
• All of our Training Programs

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Coming soon…