Explorez tous les épisodes du podcast The RunOut Podcast
| Titre | Date | Durée | |
|---|---|---|---|
| The RunOut #160: How Lara Neumeir Climbs with Composure and Control | 13 déc. 2025 | 01:06:07 | |
Lara Neumeier is a German climber known for her composure on demanding, heady terrain. Her notable ascents include a repeat of Psychogramm (5.14a trad), Silbergeier and End of Silence—two of the iconic multipitch alpine routes that form Europe’s so-called Alpine Trilogy—as well as El Corazón and the Pineapple Express on El Capitan. Before diving into Lara’s climbing and approach to mental strength, we open with a conversation about the benefits—and potential pitfalls—of choosing a climber as your partner for life, both on and off the rock. This episode’s final bit comes from Dave Pomeranz, a longtime climber balancing life as a dad and guitarist while roaming the American West. His band, Whale Fall, contributes the track “The Dawn Thief,” inspired by long night drives through deserts and mountains on the way to climb. Show Notes Follow Lara Neumeier: https://www.instagram.com/laraneumeier/ Pineapple Express: https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lara-neumeier-nemuel-fuerle-repeat-el-nino-via-pineapple-express-el-capitan-yosemite.html Psychogramm news: https://www.lacrux.com/klettern/lara-neumeier-zeigt-nervenstarke-erste-frauenbegehung-von-trad-route-psychogramm/ Thomas Huber: The Day I Sent End of Silence: https://eveningsends.com/thomas-huber-the-day-i-sent-the-end-of-silence/ Whale Fall on Bandcamp https://whalefall.bandcamp.com Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast | |||
| The RunOut #159: Fallon Rowe Climbs Through Trauma and Into Strength | 26 nov. 2025 | 01:33:35 | |
Fallon Rowe is a climber, writer, coach, teacher, researcher, and many more things. Her new book is called Pay No Mind: A Memoir of Climbing, Abuse, and Survival. Beyond discussing the traumatic story that she tells in her book, we enjoyed listening to Fallon bring her always thoughtful, grounded perspective to the way she approaches movement, risk, and life on the rock. But first, we sit down to talk about The Art of Suffering. No, not the kind of suffering we normally describe of getting to Rifle and finding nowhere to park. The kind of suffering that only one of alpinism’s most enigmatic and thoughtful philosophers could articulate: Voytek Kurtkyka, the legendary Polish climber. Our final bit comes from climber, listener, and drummer Todd Hammond, and the Utah-based band The Statuettes. This track is called The of End of Everything. Show Notes Follow Fallon Rowe: https://www.instagram.com/fallonclimbs “Pay No Mind: A Memoir of Climbing, Abuse, and Survival” at DiAngelo Books: https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/pay-no-mind Voytek Kurtyka: “The Art of Suffering”: https://thefossilclub.blogspot.com/2012/07/art-of-suffering.html?m=1 More on Voytek: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214642/The-Art-of-Freedom-The-Life-and-Climbs-of-Voytek-Kurtyka The Statuettes on Bandcamp: https://michaelgross.bandcamp.com/music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| The Runout #158: Laura Pineau and Kate Kellegan Go Big on Triple Crown | 31 oct. 2025 | 01:27:31 | |
On June 8 Kate Kellegan and Laura Pineau (aka Mademoiselle Fissure) became the first women to complete the Yosemite Triple Crown. That means the climbed El Capitan, Half Dome and Mt. Watkins in a day. Their time was 23 hours, 36 minutes, and 40 seconds. In this conversation, Kate and Laura share the tactics they used to achieve their big link-up, including tapping into the stoke and support of the community. But first, Kalous lays down on the therapy couch while Dr. Bisharat tries to diagnose why redpointing projects isn’t bringing him the kind of joy you might otherwise expect. Last, the Pink Rope Club from Atlanta performs their anthem. Show Notes Triple Crown News on UK Climbing: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2025/06/kate_kelleghan_and_laura_pineau_on_completing_the_yosemite_triple_crown-73998 Follow Kate Kellegan: https://www.instagram.com/katekelleghan/ Follow Laura Pineau: https://www.instagram.com/laurapineau/ Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| The RunOut #157: Born to climb with kids’ book author Danielle Sarli | 11 oct. 2025 | 01:04:18 | |
Danielle Sarli is a kindergarten teacher, musician, and passionate climber. She is the author of Little Climber, a new kids’ book illustrated by Amanda Joy Hogan. We discuss how to tap into that kid-like innate urge to climb, and kindle the joy that we all feel when stand on top of the world—or our own projects. But first, your inquisitive show hosts take a moment to ask each other anything. Literally, anything. Last, we’d be remiss not to share some of Danielle’s musical chops. Here she is performing Beauty Land. Show Notes Follow Danielle Sarli: https://www.instagram.com/danielle_climbs/ Order “Little Climber”: https://littleclimberbook.com/shop Watch “Beauty Land” music video: https://youtu.be/y1Jc2xvI_oo?si=eVUstBI6i_k1ONJ_ | |||
| The RunOut #156: The mysterious murder of a neo-nazi crypto king dirtbag climbing outlaw | 27 sept. 2025 | 01:21:12 | |
In 2017, a climber was murdered outside of Squamish. His body was found with gunshot wounds, inside a smoldering, burnt vehicle. He was suspected to be the climber known as Jesse James, a Squamish dirtbag who made his mark on the scene, both in real life and online. In fact, it took three years for investigators to discover his real name and his incredible and sordid past. Who was this person really and what clues did his past reveal about who killed him—or why? Steven Chua is a freelance journalist based in Vancouver. He’s a rock climber, and the host of Dirtbag Climber, a new true-crime podcast from the CBC’s Uncover. This riveting new podcast peels back the layers of Jess James, a former neo-nazi turned crypto king dirtbag climbing outlaw. But first, your well-intentioned hosts try to breathe a bit of positivity into the world by shining our lights on several climbing stories that are all good and about which nothing negative can be said. Today’s final bit comes from climber, OG Stone Monkey, public speaker and purveyor of joy, just like us, Timmy O’Neill. He is also the sometimes touring drummer for the Surf Rock Duo, Par Avion. Featured is the track Bikini Beach Bash recorded live at the Eldorado in downtown Carbondale CO. Show Notes Listen to “Dirtbag Climber” from Uncover https://link.mgln.ai/dc-therunout Michaela Kiersch announces first ascent of Mad Lib (5.14d) https://www.instagram.com/p/DOvxvhZkWXF/?hl=en&img_index=1 “Cerro Torre Winter Solo” on Colin Haley’s blog Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| The RunOut #155: The state of American bolts with Nate Liles | 03 sept. 2025 | 01:28:50 | |
Nate Liles is a photographer, filmmaker, and development director at the American Safe Climbing Association. Today’s conversation with Nate centers on the state of bolts and bolting in America today, and the tenuous landscape of route developers, local climbing organizations, land managers, and community-organized bolting events that keep the state of hardware at our crags in the best shape possible. We talk about best practices regarding how to maintain hardware, where we’ve inadvertently created issues, and the importance of supporting your local climbing organization—not to mention the ASCA itself—with your dollars. But first, we talk about bad kids at the crags and reaching the threshold for when there are just too many of these rotten, no-good brats ruining our wilderness experiences. Last but never least, today’s final bit comes from the talented photographer and musician Taylor Shaffer Show Notes Follow Nate Liles on Instagram Follow Taylor Shaffer and Taylor Shaffer Music on Instagram | |||
| Runout #154: Soul and Sandstone: Andrew Kornylak on climbing in the South | 18 août 2025 | 01:07:02 | |
Andrew Kornylak is a photographer, filmmaker, writer, and longtime climber. His new book is Spare These Stones. We speak about the rich culture of climbing in the. south, and how this place and its people have helped inform his work and inspire his latest book. But first, we talk about a climbing influencer who is using rage-bait free solo videos to gain attention on Instagram. Today’s final bit comes from Denver-based climber Logan Underwood and his punk band Moonshake. The song is Slipperscree. Show Notes | |||
| Runout #153: Sex, Angst, and Rocks—Emily Meg Weinstein | 31 juil. 2025 | 01:16:50 | |
Emily Weinstein is a New Yorker, radical activist, rabid Met’s fan, and climber who lives on a house boat in the San Francisco Bay. Her new book is called Turn to Stone: A Memoir. But first we catch up what’s happening in our climbing worlds, from stancing out out projects to taking a stance on fear. Our final bit is an excerpt from a standup comedy act from Ethan Newman. Show Notes Turn to Stone: A Memoir from Simon & Schuster The One and Only Bar in St George Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast | |||
| The RunOut #152: Will Moss (Actually) Day Flashes Free Rider | 20 juil. 2025 | 01:05:53 | |
Will Moss is a trad climber originally from New York. He recently flashed Free Rider on El Capitan, becoming the first to do it in a day and only the second person ever to flash an El Cap free climb. Will’s preparation to flash this route was insanely detailed, involving pouring over every video clip he could find, and person he could talk to. He even trained on simulators for the crux. Will shares the whole story of his groundbreaking ascent here. But first, what’s better than having a project? Sharing a project with your partner. We talk about all the ways that working on a route together can bring you closer to your friend—until it doesn’t. Today’s Final Bit is courtesy of Rob Seaver and his band FOND, based out of Alexandria, Virgina. This climbing-inspired song is called Hooking Up. Show Notes Will Moss’s first appearance on The RunOut, episode 122. Will Moss Becomes First Person to Flash El Cap in a Day Babsi Zangerl flashes Free Rider Can Beetroot Powder Improve Athletic Performance? Effect of tadalafil (Cialis) on anaerobic performance indices in healthy athletes Listen to FOND on Apple Music / Spotify — Links on Bandcamp Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| The RunOut #151: Linking it up with Tanner Wanish and Michael Vaill | 29 juin 2025 | 01:29:50 | |
Tanner Wanish and Michael Vaill are two of the best speed climbers in Yosemite today. They currently hold the record for the historic Yosemite Triple Crown with a time of 17 hours and 55 minutes, and they’re also the only climbers to also add in a fourth big wall on top of that feat—a linkup they dubbed the Quad. We spoke to Tanner and Michael about their partnership, the allure of linkups, the dangers of speed climbing and competition, and the real joy beyond what you see on social media of clocking big walls for breakfast. But first, bolts be pulling out, yo. What’s the best way to address aging crags? Your fixed podcast anchors weigh in. Last, the infamous Tall Jonathan, of the podcast formerly known as TAPS call-in fame, AKA Jonathan Sides, delivers Something More. Show Notes Forget the Yosemite Triple… These Guys Just Did the Quad How Two Lesser-Known Rock Climbers Smashed a Fabled Yosemite Record Listen to “Something More” by Jonathan Sides on Spotify Follow Jonathan Sides on Instagram Increase your RunOut runtime. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Bonus episodes, AMA, and more are available on Patreon. This is the best way to support the show! Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast | |||
| RunOut 150: Girl Climber, with Emily Harrington and Jon Glassberg | 11 juin 2025 | 01:14:20 | |
Jon Glassberg is a photographer and filmmaker, and Emily Harrington is one of America’s most prolific professional climbers, whose all-around feats span summits of 8,000 meter peaks, 5.14, National Comp podiums, and free ascents of El Capitan. Their new film is Girl Climber, which is profile of Emily and her quest to free climb Golden Gate on El Capitan in a day. But first, crack open a case of Send Lite and help us ponder whether we need way more terms for doing what we do with our rock-climbing ascents. Our final bit is “Big Wall,” an alt-rock ear worm from Nathan Murdoch, from the forthcoming EP “If You’re Not There.” Show Notes Follow Emily Harrington Follow Jon Glassberg Pre-order Girl Climber from Jolt Film Girl Climber film review from Climbing Mag Follow Nathan Murdoch Listen to Big Wall on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 149: Jordan Cannon and Mark Hudon, live from El Cap | 22 mai 2025 | 01:33:05 | |
Jordan Cannon is a professional climber, known for his free and speed-climbing feats on El Capitan. Mark Hudon is one of the fathers of big-wall free climbing, best known for making a very early and audacious free attempt of the Salathé Wall in 1979 with Max Jones, nearly a decade before El Cap was officially first free climbed by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. Jordan and Mark’s partnership is legendary, best encapsulated in the film “Free As Can Be,” which documents Jordan’s ascent of Freerider in a day and Mark’s attempt to finally complete a free ascent of El Capitan by the same route, more than four decades later. On today’s episode, we make podcasting history by recording our episode live from halfway up the side of El Capitan, as Jordan attempts to free the Salathé Wall via the rarely repeated, and arguably official crux pitch—the infamous pitch 19—with Mark supporting him on belay. This is a two-part episode. To hear the second half of our conversation, you’ll need to join us at Patreon.com But first, your over-stoker podcast hosts run into the latest climbing headlines and cover the biggest downgrades to the most impressive ascents, while wondering whether it’s all just one big Tommy Caldwell sandbag. Today’s final bit features the return of the Seattle post punk power trio rock band Dragontail Peak, with the song Three Rules–as in three rules of big-wall climbing. Show Notes Mandatory listening: “Bonus: The Free Salathé Wall’s Strange Revisionist History” Enormocast: Episode 152: Mark Hudon and Max Jones – As Free as Can Be. Follow Jordan Cannon on Instagram Follow Mark Hudon on Instagram Bill Ramsey, 64, does Wrongdoer (8b+) Tommy Caldwell, 46, does Empath 9a (+) calling it 8c From V16 to Big Walls: Pietro Vidi Makes the Second Ascent of ‘Lurking Fear’ UNCUT: “No one Mourns The Wicked” – V17/9A – Hamish McArthur Follow DragonTail Peak on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| The RunOut 148: The Evolution of Sonnie Trotter | 17 mai 2025 | 01:21:56 | |
Sonnie Trotter is a professional climber from Canada, whose notable ascents include the first ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish, The Shining on Mount Louis, and the Pineapple Express on El Capitan. His new book is called UPLIFTED: The Evolution of a Climbing Life. But first, is it aid? One of climbing’s most perennial questions comes up in a way that leaves your hosts breathless and saying “sucks to your ass-mar”. Our final bit is “Yamashiro” by Recorduroy, a fusion band based in Colorado, with climber Dave Cohen on drums. Show Notes “UPLIFTED: The Evolution of a Climbing Life” from Patagonia Books Read “Manboy” an excerpt from Sonnie’s new book on Evening Sends Follow Sonnie Trotter on Instagram Listen to Yamashiro on Spotify and Apple Music Recorduroy on Spotify and Apple Music Follow Recorduroy on Instagram Why an Inhaler Sparked a Personal Style Debate on ‘Life of Villains’ Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 147: How Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard is Pushing the Limits of Climbing Activism | 05 mai 2025 | 01:26:35 | |
Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard is the executive director of Urban Native Collective, the host of the Life on the Margins: An Urban Native Experience podcast, the co-founder of the Indigenous Field Guide, and a collaborator with the American Climbing Project. She recently stepped down from the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition Board of Directors over their decision to discontinue their community programming: Climb L8, an initiative integral to their efforts to remove systemic and financial barriers to entry into rock climbing. But first, your very influential podcast hosts discuss the latest list of top climbing influencers, talk about what we want to see on social media, and give our draft picks for our top follows. Our final bit is Boulder-based climbers Kyle Ward and Dave Cohen’s band Dry Mouth, back with a track, Lost Boys, off their EP Cactus Jazz Demos. Show Notes Follow Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard on Instagram Urban Native Collective on Instagram Life on the Margins Podcast on Instagram American Climbing Project on Instagram American Climbing Project on Patreon Follow Kyle Ward on Instagram Follow Dry Mouth on Instagram Dry Mouth – Soundcloud Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast | |||
| RunOut #146: From Big Walls to Open Water: Unlocking the Expedition Mindset with Mark Synnott | 16 avr. 2025 | 01:35:35 | |
Mark Synnott is a professional big-wall climber, expedition sailor, and writer whose books have included The Third Pole and The Impossible Climb. His latest book is Into The Ice, an epic read about his recent voyage across the infamous Northwest Passage and the historical mysteries that lie within. The 6,736-mile journey takes 112 days, allowing Mark to give us his most personal memoir yet while weaving in the historical details of British explorer Sir John Franklin and the 128 men he led on an ill-fated expedition in the mid-19th century. But first, we gush over some cool climbing news: Brooke Raboutou becomes the first woman to reach 5.15c, and Connor Herson makes a quick tick of one of the hardest crack climbs in the desert: Mason Earle’s Stranger Than Fiction Our final bit is a throwback to a moment in time when the Black Nugget in Carbondale was the place to be, and Sector 7G found a groove that sent the cowboys and hippies spiraling. Show Notes Follow Mark Synnott on Instagram and check out his homepage “Into the Ice” from Penguin Random House The RunOut #60 – Mark Synnott and Everest News: Brooke Raboutou Climbs 5.15c | |||
| RunOut #145: Here Come the Management Plans | 03 avr. 2025 | 01:12:05 | |
Earlier this year, the Bears Ears Resource Management Plan dropped, outlining rules regarding camping, waste management, dogs, and, perhaps most controversially, fixed anchors for new routes across the monument, which includes, of course, Indian Creek. Jason Keith is a senior policy advisor at the Access Fund who has spent his career navigating the legal and relational fog of securing access for climbers across the country. He was deeply involved in the development of this plan and talks to us today about what it means for climbers today—and everyone going forward amid the uncertainty and chaos of the current administration. But first, we talk about favorite mountain on earth, Everest, and why it’s a such a slippery slope. Drones are coming for Sherpa jobs, but our hot take on this development might surprise you. Our Final Bit is the Golden Shoals, a fiddle and guitar duo featuring Mark Kilianski and rock climber Amy Alvey. Check out the Show Notes for tour dates, website, and more! Show Notes New Rules at Indian Creek Are Now in Effect. Here’s What You Need to Know. Bears Ears Resource Management Plan Drones Will Do Some Schlepping for Sherpas on Mount Everest Follow Golden Shoals and Amy Alvey on Instagram Get Bonus Episodes! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast | |||
| RunOut #144: Life After Competition: Hannah Schubert and Eating Disorders in Climbing | 19 mars 2025 | 01:28:09 | |
Hannah Schubert is an Austrian climber who has podiumed at the World Cup and the World Championships. Now retired from professional competition, Hannah was recently profiled in Der Spiegel, one of Germanys’ largest publications, where she opened up about her struggles with eating disorders during the height of her competitive career. Our conversation traces Hannah’s career, from climbing alongside her brother Jakob, to the hyper competitive world of Austrian climbing, and what it meant to stand on a World Cup podium. We look at how eating disorders can spread through taking silent cues, comparing yourself to others, and the comments made by coaches. We talk about how easy eating disorders are to hide from others, making it hard to talk about and address. And we hear about the ultimate breaking point for Hannah, and her years long recovery back to mental and physical health. But first, Chris has a confession to make to Andrew … and needless to say, Andrew is NOT happy about it. Our final bit is some classic Winona shit. Show Notes Follow Hannah Schubert on Instagram Guest Blog by Hannah Schubert: Why I Think Vulnerability Matters Young Women with Anorexia Nervosa Speak Out about Hospital Experiences Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more! Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast | |||
| RunOut #143: PARC Act Passes, so What’s Next For Climbing in America? | 28 févr. 2025 | 01:17:09 | |
The Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act was signed into law at the end of President Biden’s term. The PARC Act mandates that various government departments issue guideance recognizing rock climbing as a legitimate use of public lands, including the placement and maintenance of fixed anchors in Wilderness. This historic act was the result of a multi-year campaign spearheaded by the Access Fund. Our guests today are Access Fund executive director Heather Thorne and deputy director Erik Murdock. This interview was recorded on January 28th, before the news of DOGE’s cuts to many positions, including at our national parks. To check out the Access Fund’s position on the DOGE cuts, see the linked article in our Show Notes. But first, we tee up our conversation with the Access Fund by talking about this recent news, including the upside-down American flag that was hung from the top of El Capitan last week by Yosemite’s recently dismissed locksmith and others. Our final bit is from a climber at heart, Madi Rindge, aka, Madi Bisharat, my cousin and a brilliant musician whose music I’m honored and excited to share. Check out the show notes for links to her albums, including this song Alien, as well as a GoFundMe to support her father who lost his house in the Palisades fire this year. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Show Notes VICTORY! Congress Passes Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act — Access Fund A New Era for Climbing: PARC Act’s Impact and the Path Forward — Access Fund Tell Lawmakers How Firing Public Lands Employees Impacts You — Access Fund How the Yosemite Climbing Community Is Reacting to DOGE Layoffs — Climbing.com Protesters Display Upside-Down American Flag at Yosemite — NYT Follow Madi Rindge on Instagram Listen to Running Out of Oxygen on Spotify Order Running out of Oxygen from Madi. GoFundMe for Charlie Bisharat’s home that was lost in the Palisades fire | |||
| RunOut #142: Jason Kehl and the Evolution of Bouldering | 19 févr. 2025 | 01:16:51 | |
Jason Kehl is a hold shaper, iconclast, and highball bouldering legend, perhaps best known for his first ascent of Evilution in the Buttermilks. Today, he lives in El Paso, Texas, where he continues to establish first ascents all over Hueco Tanks. He is also continue to work with So Ill to create climbing holds. Our conversation traces the evolution of bouldering as a sport for misfits and outcasts to the conformist scene of today. But first, we respond to the tragic news of an ice-climbing death by asking some tough and perhaps irreconcilable questions about being a new climber, in which ambition can exceed experience, and how social media dynamics can make all of this worse. Last, a little amuse bouche of one of our favorite climbing songwriters, Chris Parker, who’ll be joining us on stage in Boulder for our upcoming LIVE event on February 20. Show NotesFollow Jason Kehl on Instagram Jason Kehl’s World of Illusions – Episode 8 – Hueco’s Web Hueco Rehab – “Real Climbing Episode 5″ Check out the Connect Board from So Ill Check out the latest holds from So Ill | |||
| RunOut #141: The Joy of Struggle, According to Ryan Devlin | 29 janv. 2025 | 01:23:57 | |
Ryan Devlin is an actor who has appeared in such shows as Brothers and Sisters, Cougar Town, and Grey’s Anatomy. Climbers, however, will know him as the host of one of our favorite climbing podcasts, The Struggle Climbing Show. In this episode, we catch up with Ryan after he redpointed his hardest rock climb to date at the Red River Gorge, and hear about what it was like to share that redpoint journey with his audience. But first, pass the xenon gas and strap in the nitro, it’s time to climb Everest, baby! Our final bit is a blast from the early aughts, with climber Nick Smith in the Half Jeffersons. Show Notes Follow Ryan Devlin and The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram You Can Now Climb Everest in a Week Using Xenon Gas: The Implications — Explorer’s Web Everest in a Week: Lukas Furtenbach Enters the Xenon Debate — Explorer’s Web The Half Jeffersons’ Sweet Angel on Spotify, The Fire on Youtube Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #140: Chris Deuto Seeks More in the Mountains | 14 janv. 2025 | 01:31:56 | |
Though just 21, Chris Deuto has already amassed an impressive lifetime of climbing since first starting the sport at age 7. Having ticked 5.14c and V14 and done national-level competitions, Chris has shifted his focus to more alpine-centered climbs, from Aconcagua to Fitz Roy. Most recently, he made the first free rope-solo winter ascent of the Diamond face of Long’s Peak in his home state of Colorado. Chris has consciously brought his process-centered approach to the forefront of his climbing, seeking richer experiences rather than just focusing on grades. But first, your second favorite conspiracy-addled climbing podcasters discuss the curious appearance of “bolts” (big scare quotes) beneath a petroglyph in northeastern Utah. Where did these so-called “bolts” come from, and why, exactly, are climbers to blame? The mystery deepens… Last but never least, our final bit features the return of a Bend-based musical duo Billy and Box Kid, with their new track, Without the Frills. Show NotesChris Deuto profile on Climbing.com Chris Deuto profile on the Daily Camera Petroglphy “churnalism” on CBS, KUTV, NYPost, Artnet, Gear Junkie. Wilderness Watch’s hostility toward the PARCA bill RunOut #101: Will Congress Let Climbers Bolt in Wilderness? Read: Breaking the Wilderness Bell Jar and There is Just Climbing on Evening Sends Follow Billy and the Box Kid on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 139: Fred Nicole speaks to the soul of bouldering | 22 déc. 2024 | 01:34:00 | |
Fred Nicole’s name is synonymous with hard bouldering. The dude is legend, responsible for establishing the world’s first V14 and first V15, always while bringing an artistic, quiet approach that has defined the soul of bouldering for over four decades. Today Fred works as a shoe designer for So Ill, and continues to explore the forests of his native Switzerland—among other areas around the world—for new boulders that capture his imagination. But first, Chris shares some stories about an escape to what’s arguably the best rock in the country, the New River Gorge. Our Final Bit is from none other than Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb 5.15. This song is called Jaded and it’s off her new album Notes to You. Show Notes Follow Fred Nicole on Instagram Fred Nicole interview with UP Climbing Follow Margo Hayes on Instagram Listen to Notes to You wherever you get your music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #138: The Bromance of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold | 09 déc. 2024 | 01:17:51 | |
Today’s guest is climbing’s Captain America, Tommy Cadlwell. Tommy’s latest film is called The Devil’s Climb, and it documents an epic adventure in which he and Alex Honnold rode their bike’s to Alaska and enchained all the summits on the striking and infamous Devil’s Thumb massif. The film was pitched as an environmental film, but the directors decided that global warming was less interesting than Tommy and Alex’s bromance. We catch up with one of the world’s greatest climbers of all time and hear about making this film, and all the other things in life. But first, we open up the official record book of climbing, and discuss the recent news of Michaela Kirsh becoming the first woman to do a V15 and 5.15a, Babsi Zangerl’s flash of Freerider, and other achievements. For our final bit, we’re pleased to share the heady music of longtime climber Dave Pomeranz’s band, Whale Fall, with their track Chronophobia. Show NotesWatch the trailer for The Devil’s Climb and stream the whole film on Disney+. Sign up for Tommy Caldwell’s newsletter Routefinding at Patagonia Michaela Kiersch becomes first woman to send 5.15 and V15 Setting and Revising the Record on Evening Sends Tommy’s book recommendation: Waking the Tiger by Peter A. Levine, Ph.D. Whale Fall on Bandcamp and Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 137: The Revelations of Jerry Moffatt | 18 nov. 2024 | ||
Today we’re honored to be speaking with Jerry Moffatt. Jerry was one of the most influential and best climbers in the 1980s and ‘90s, whose groundbreaking first ascents pushed the limits and also was incredibly influential on the direction of our sport. His autobiography Revelations is one of the best climbing books ever, and a must read for everyone who listens to this show. But first, we break down the news of the closures at Mt. Arapiles in Australia. Mt. Arapiles is arguably Australia’s best, most historic crag, and is widely considered to have some of the finest stone of any crag on earth. Now, nearly half of that climbing is being shut down. But why? It’s a complicated question, involving special interests and the government’s unwillingness to rein them in, alongside a general animosity toward climbers. Last, our final bit is from Seattle based Mamas New Cult featuring Zoey Huynh. Show NotesBuy Jerry Moffatt’s book “Revelations” Donate to the Climb Victoria Advocacy Fund Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 136: Brady Robinson on Climbing, Advocacy, and the legacy of Armando Menocal | 31 oct. 2024 | 01:24:32 | |
Armando Menocal was a civil rights lawyer and climber who helped found the Access Fund. It’s safe to say that without Armando’s silent but hugely significant contributions, climbing would look very different today. Sadly, Armando recently died at the age of 83 from cancer. Here today to help memorialize Armando is Armando’s friend and colleague Brady Robinson. Brady is the former Executive Director of the Access Fund. He is a veteran of numerous expeditions, with first ascents in Pakistan, Patagonia, and Peru. Today he works as the director of philanthropy at the Freja Foundation and is working on conservation projects in South America. But first, your hosts listen to another climbing podcast, get redpilled, freak out, and launch into a conspiracy of our own about Jimmy Chin and Sandy Irvine. Something’s afoot on Everest … For today’s final bit, climber / musician Jessica Roki Kilroy is back with Right Here Remix. Roki is a climber and musician from Montana, whose experimental, brooding, emotional folk music incorporates the sounds of the natural world, including those that she captured while on El Cap. Show Notes“Remembering Armando Menocal” on Climbing Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #135: Becca Steinbrecher: What it’s Like to Survive a Serious Climbing Accident | 18 oct. 2024 | 01:11:24 | |
Last year, Becca Steinbrecher broke a foothold while climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison and took a 30-foot fall onto a ledge. It was only a couple of months later that Becca woke up and learned what had happened to her that day, including the heroic and miraculous search and rescue operation that navigated a thorny web of very tough decisions in order to get her out of the Black Canyon and to a hospital. Becca recounts the events of that fateful as they were told to her, and shares what her experience has been like living with a traumatic brain injury, and ultimately returning back to the sport she loves. But first, some lighter fare as your curmudgeonly podcast hosts go back for round two of ‘Mudgeon Mania. We roll up our sociologist sleeves and build a taxonomy of different curmudgeons in the climbing world, including: the Hermudgeon, the Newmudgeon, and the Sportmudgeon (all now TM properties of The RunOut podcast but available for a Creative Commons license as long as you support our podcast on Patreon.) Today’s final bit is from Moab-based rock climber Sam Newman, who created spooky, silly climbing-themed spoof of Edgar Allen Poe’s seminal poem, The Raven. Show NotesClimbing.com: Major Accident and Dramatic Rescue in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison YouTube: The Great White Wall: Black Canyon of the Gunnison Friends of the Black Canyon Search and Rescue Team Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #134: The State of Adventure and Storytelling with Fitz Cahall | 02 oct. 2024 | 01:04:32 | |
Fitz Cahall is the founder of the Dirtbag Diaries, a podcast that’s been downloaded over 18 million times. His new book is “States of Adventure: 30 outdoor adventure stories about finding yourself by getting lost.” But first, childless cat ladies may be a topic for some politicians, but we look at the childless climbers bringing their cats to the crags. Suffice to say, crag dogs are not happy, but at least we have figured out what animal is the best crag companion of all. Today’s final bit comes from Dan Cauthorn’s Seattle-based band Dragontail Peak. Dan climbed Cerro Torre in 1992, which was a major influence on his life, including the inspiration for this song, also called Cerro Torre. Check out Dragontail Peak — links are in Show Notes. Show Notes“States of Adventure: 30 outdoor adventure stories about finding yourself by getting lost” Follow Fitz Cahall on social media Dragontail Peak: Bandcamp // Facebook Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #133: Olympic Runner and Rock Climber Hobbs Kessler | 20 sept. 2024 | 01:14:51 | |
Hobbs Kessler is a 21-year-old professional runner who ran a 3:34 in the 1500m in his senior year of high school. He has also climbed as hard as 5.14c with an ascent of Southern Smoke in the Red River Gorge. Hobbs just returned from the Paris Olympics, where he competed in both the 800 and 1500m races. But first, your curmudgeonly hosts roll their eyes at one of climbing’s most bitter personas: the climbing curmudgeon. It’s like we’re looking in the mirror! Today’s final bit is a mother-daughter violin performance of the Appalachian Waltz. The musicians behind this composition are my good friend Kate McGinnis, a nurse from Atlanta who is one of the most talented and strong climbers I’ve ever met, and her 13 year old daughter Annie, who is crushing rock climbs just like her mom. Show Notes“Hobbs Kessler Climbs 5.14+ and Runs a Sub 4-Minute Mile. And He’s Just 17.” <p><strong>Become a RunOut Rope Gun!</strong> Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! <a href=”http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast”>http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast</a></p> <p><strong>Contact us</strong> Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. <a href=”mailto:andrew@runoutpodcast.com”>andrew@runoutpodcast.com</a> // <a href=”mailto:chris@runoutpodcast.com”>chris@runoutpodcast.com</a></p> | |||
| RunOut #132: Amity Warme is Bringing Stoke—and Style—Back to Climbing | 02 sept. 2024 | 01:15:58 | |
Amity Warme is a professional rock climber and dietician, who has not only free climbed El Capitan five times, but has done so each time in true ground-up style. This ground-up style is captured in an awesome new film that tells the story Amity and Brent Barghahn’s ground-up free ascent of El Niño via the Pineapple Express Variation on El Capitan. Our conversation ranges from big-wall style and ethics, to her philosophy and approach to nutrition. But first we dive into what the American Alpine Club is calling the greatest access issue in climbing: expensive day passes to climbing gyms. Last, Gunky and Professor Wayne Burleson brings us his livingroom version of the Dead’s Franklin’s Tower. Show NotesAmity Warme and Brent Barghahn free climb El Niño. Watch Amity climb Book of Hate “Can Climbing Outrun Its Own Elitism With Inclusive Gym Pricing?” on Climbing.com | |||
| RunOut #131: Drew Ruana Climbs Hard and Thinks Ahead | 19 août 2024 | 01:20:51 | |
Out #131: Drew Ruana Climbs Hard and Thinks Ahead Drew Ruana started climbing on the slabs of Smith Rock, and has since become one of America’s most prolific boulderers, with over 100 V14 and harder problems ticked. He’s currently a student at the Colorado School of Mines, and thinking ahead of what kind of career he wants in life, and how climbing fits into it all. But first, yr friendly podcast hosts debrief on their Olympic fever, and talk about where Paris soared, and where it fell short. Today’s final bit is from the all-girl punk band Fire Party, who was part of the DC punk scene in the late 1980s. In true punk fashion, the members of Fire Party — including the lead singer, badass climber and friend of the pod Amy Pickering — rejected the label of being an all-girl band. Show Notes | |||
| RunOut #130: Thomas Huber Unleashes Freedom on America | 01 août 2024 | 01:19:15 | |
Thomas Huber is our favorite Huber brother—no offense to Alex. He needs little introduction, and is one of the most prolific climbers of the last 30 years thanks to a resume that includes establishing some of the best free climbs on El Capitan and across Europe, to winning the Piolet d’Or for his bold alpine ascents, to being a member of the beloved Stone Monkeys. His new book Freiheit, In the Mountains There is Freedom, is now available in English from DiAngelo. But first, yer hosts consider the question of giving and receiving encouragement while climbing. Why do we feel the need to yell, “You got it!” at people who clearly Do. Not. Have. It.? And is a little peace and silence too much to ask around here? Last but never least, our final bit is another awkward collision between climbing and mainstream media, as the news tries to capture the heroism of a dramatic, life-saving rescue. Show NotesFollow Thomas Huber on Instagram Read an excerpt from Huber’s book on Evening Sends Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #129: Olympic Fever; Plus: When Climbers Become Parents with Allyson Gunsallus | 24 juil. 2024 | 01:11:23 | |
Allyson Gunsallus is a climber and lawyer who serves on the board of the American Alpine Club. She is also the producer and director of Hand Holds, a new film interview series providing resources for climbing parents. Our conversation explores how climbing parents navigate the risks inherent to our sport with the demands of their new identity, not to mention the little person in their lives. But first, we’ve got a tepid Olympic fever and the only cure is more speed climbing. We give the run-down on who to look for in the Olympics, and why it’s only Sam Watson. Last but never least, the great Steph Davis onsights an off-the-couch piano performance of the soundtrack of Interstellar. Show NotesHand Holds is six free-to-watch episodes featuring interviews with well-known climbers, including Beth Rodden, Majka Burhardt, Eddie and Anna Taylor, Jon and Jess Glassberg, Kris Hampton, and Chris Kalous. Visit handholdsfilm.com for more information. Follow Allyson Gunsallus / Hand Holds on Instagram Follow Steph Davis on Instagram Watch Sam Watson set the world record Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #128: Activism and Climbing with Miranda Oakley | 02 juil. 2024 | 01:02:42 | |
Miranda Oakley is an AMGA certified rock climbing guide, who set the record for being the first woman to rope solo the Nose in a day. As a Palestinian-American, she recently made headlines by hanging a political banner on the side of El Cap. We discuss this unlikely nexus between climbing and activism, and imagine how it can go right or wrong. But first, fresh off a week of climbing in America’s new favorite sport crag, Kalous has some observations he wants to share. For our final bit, we’re stoked to share the Salt Lake City progressive rock climber band Better in Color with their track “The Imprisoned One.” Show NotesFollow Miranda Oakley on Instagram Climbers Hang “Stop the Genocide” Banner from El Capitan Movement Lessons from Climbers With Palestine’s Yosemite Banner Hang Follow Better in Color on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #127: Sensei and Sensibility: Climb Smarter with Justen Sjong | 20 juin 2024 | 01:16:21 | |
Today’s guest is climbing coach Justen Sjong. Justen is known for his first free ascents of Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) and The PreMuir (VI 5.13c/d) on El Capitan, and redpoints of 5.14 sport climbs. His approach to improvement in climbing is far more cerebral than most standard training fare, and his intuitions and sensibilities as a coach have helped numerous climbers mine their untapped potential by clearly mental barriers and finding the present. But first, your egotistical hosts talk about the infamous climbing ego: the ways it can hold us back, and how it might be embraced so as to fully excel. Our final bit comes from a late evening in a dusty desert hill, as the campfire embers cooled and all the little boys and girls had already turned in to their sleeping bags. One of our favorite climbers and musicians, Lisa Hathaway, plays us a tune. Show NotesClimbing Sensei — Book a coaching session with Justen Follow Justen Sjong on Instagram Training with Justen, Part 2 — Evening Sends Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #126: Who Was Tobin Sorenson? A Stonemaster Pays Homage to One of the Climbing’s All-Time Greats | 31 mai 2024 | 01:16:08 | |
Today we have a double-header. Two guests, same great show. First up is Rajiv Ayyangar—an entrepreneur, CEO, and host of The China Beach podcast, a show about his obsession with arguably the best sport climb on earth (at least according to him!). Rajiv might have the most niche podcast on earth, and we dive into where his obsession with this one route comes from. Next is OG Stonemaster Rick Accomazzo, who has just completed a new book on Tobin Sorenson. In the 1970s, Tobin completed some of the most audacious climbs, bringing a a kind of fearless courage that both left his partners in awe and shaking with fear. His 1977 season in Chamonix might just be one of the best seasons any climber has had in that range, ever. Tobin perished in the mountains at the young age of 25, but his legacy is now being told for the first time in a way that lives up to his achievements, skill, and vision. Our final bit is a poignant but hilarious recording from our archive with the late, great Paul Nelson. Show NotesFollow Rajiv Ayyangar and the China Beach Podcast Watch Nina Williams climb China Beach Pre-order Tobin, The Stonemasters, and Me 1970-1980 by Rick Accomazzo Read “The Day I Sent Colorblind” by Paul Nelson Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #125: Michael Levy Brings Back Summit Journal; Plus, the Definitive Gumby Episode | 17 mai 2024 | 01:09:00 | |
After Rock and Ice and Climbing magazines stopped printing issues, a hole was left in the climbing media landscape. Enter Michael Levy, a writer based in New York City and a former editor at Rock and Ice. He has recently revived Summit Journal, and reimagined it as a heavy stock climbing magazine for climbers today. We talk about climbing media and the viability of print, and what it takes to make it in today’s digital world. But first, yr crooked-helmet wearing hosts talk about Gumbies. What are they? Who are they? Why are they? And why does Alex Honnold think Gumby is such a joyous term. Strap in for the definitive lesson in how to not be such a Gumby—even though you’ll never not be one. Last, we’re psyched to share the music of climber / producer Smith Curry, a session player and producer for Willie Nelson, Taylor Swift, Maren Morris, Dolly Parton, Pharrell Williams, Kid Rock, Jason Aldean and 200+ more. Show NotesFollow Summit Journal on Instagram Follow Michael Levy on Instagram Follow Smith Curry on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 124: How Jesse Grupper is getting Psyched and Ready for the next Olympics | 30 avr. 2024 | 00:54:46 | |
Last fall, Jesse Grupper took home the gold medal at the Pan Am games, securing his spot on Team USA for the Paris Olympics in 2024. Now just a few months out from the Games, we caught up with Jesse to hear about how he is preparing and getting psyched to represent our country in lead and bouldering at the Olympics—all while balancing life as a mechanical engineer pushing the limits of soft robotics to improve people’s lives. But first, yr sticky, sweet podcast hosts get into a debate about glue and when it’s appropriate to use it to fix boulder problems that break. This discussion comes after one of Colorado’s oldest and most historic boulder problems broke, and locals put the question to the community for a vote. Buster Jesik, IFMGA / AMGA mountain guide, lays down a sick drum track for today’s final bit. Show NotesWatch Jesse flash Livin’ Astro Follow Jesse Grupper on Instagram Mental Standard Has Broken — Instagram Mental Standard — Mountain Project Follow Buster Jesik on Instagram, Youtube, or contact him for guiding buster@coloradomountainschool.com Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 123: How NFL Lineman Wes Schweitzer Uses Rock Climbing to Move Better and Get Stronger | 16 avr. 2024 | 01:06:45 | |
Our guest today is #71 for the New York Jets: Wes Schweitzer, an offensive guard whose injuries sent him down a curious path of recovery: rock climbing. Since discovering the sport, Wes has fallen in love with climbing and uses it as a tool to improve his performance on and off the field. At 6’4” 330-pounds, Wes is considered one of the strongest lineman in the game, putting up 765-pound deadlifts well over twice his body weight. As a true professional athlete, Wes delivers some fascinating insights into how both football and climbing training mentalities could benefit from each other. But first, yr favorite climbing podcasters play a game of Fuck, Marry, Kill with climbing gear. Our final bit is a track from Harris Freif called “Tortillas and Peanut Butter” off his album Guitar 2. Show NotesFollow Wes Schweitzer on Instagram and Twitter “Meet the 330-pound NFL Lineman Addicted to Rock Climbing” Check out Harris Freif on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 122: Will Moss Leaves No Stone Unclimbed | 26 mars 2024 | 01:31:03 | |
Will Moss is a comp climber turned traddie from New York City, who has been quietly ticking some of the hardest gear-protected routes in the country over the past couple of years. His most recent notable ascent is the FA of the Gunks hardest: The Best Things in Life Are Free (5.14d R). But first, we wind our way into a discussion about the elusive “undercover crusher,” and whether this mythical beast actually climbed the thing before everyone else, or if this is just what some bro is saying in order to take you down a peg or two. Last, we’re honored to feature the atmospheric music of climber and musician Jessica Kilroy, with her track “It’s Infinite.” Show NotesWilliam Moss, 18, Establishes 5.14d R Trad in the Gunks via Climbing Magazine R-Rated: 5.14 Climbing on Marginal Gear on YouTube Follow Jessica Kilroy on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com Will Moss on Brozone (5.14b) at the Gunks. Photo by Gregory Berg | |||
| RunOut #121: Beth Rodden Reveals A Light Through the Cracks | 08 mars 2024 | ||
Today’s guest is a climbing icon and legend: the great Beth Rodden. Beth was a youth national comp champ who went on to become one of the greatest female climbers of her time, with important first free ascents of El Cap and single-pitch trad test pieces such as Meltdown, a 5.14c crack that many say is harder and took a decade before it was repeated. Her new book is called A Light Through the Cracks. But first we talk about the elusive “all-around” climber, with Bronwyn Hodgins at the top of mind. What does it take to be considered a great all-around climber? And is that the future for what we demand of our top-end climbers? Today’s final bit comes courtesy of the extremely talented Beezer (aka Mason Earle) with the track Loggersports. Show NotesFollow Beth Rodden on Instagram Pre-order A Light Through the Cracks from an independent book store or big one Follow Bronwyn Hodgins on Instagram News / post about Bronwyn’s latest redpoint Watch Bronwyn and Jacob Cook free climb a big wall Follow Mason Earle on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #120: Josh Wharton Redpoints the Alpine | 20 févr. 2024 | 01:16:04 | |
Josh Wharton is one of America’s top alpine climbers, with light and fast ascents of iconic peaks from Patagonia to Alaska to the Himalaya. His latest first free ascent with Vince Anderson, is called Suerte (5.13a, WI6, M7, 3,500 feet) and it’s located on Jirishanca (20,100 feet) in Peru. This ascent, which took years to “alpine redpoint,” is featured in a new film headlining Reel Rock 18. But first, yer friendly RunOut hosts discuss Kalous’ recent trip out to his namesake dance party at the Michigan Ice Fest, where there was more festing than icing. Our final bit comes courtesy of Evan Philips, fellow podcaster at The Firn Line, with his song Close to Me. Show NotesJosh Wharton and Vince Anderson send Suerte on Climbing.com Reel Rock 18 Spotlight: Jirishanca Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #119: Dean Fidelman, Portraits of an Artist | 30 janv. 2024 | 01:26:18 | |
Dean Fidelman is a legendary climbing photographer, whose body of work and portraitures have come as close to capturing the elusive soul of our sport as any photographer ever has. He’s perhaps best known for his Stone Nudes series of fine-art black-and-white bouldering photographs, but his career first began as a 16 year old kid with a camera, documenting the Stone Masters era of Yosemite and all the legendary characters associated with it. His latest book is “Fidelman: A Body of Work,” an ambitious retrospective that chronicles the career of climbing’s perhaps most ambitious and iconic artist. But first, yr friendly podcasting hosts wonder whether everyone is making climbing, and training for climbing, way, way, way too complicated. Our final bit shares an intimate moment between a father and son, resolving a typical schoolyard conflict with a bit of jamming. Show Notes“Fidelman: A Body of Work” is available from DiAngelo Publications. Follow Dean Fidelman on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #118: The Power of Climbing Community and Development—and the Threats it Faces | 15 janv. 2024 | ||
Colorado Climber Get Goin’ from his EP Get Goin’ https://open.spotify.com/album/3rZ3LOjSIw92djPAPerMkG?si=wUR1_MyuQ12mJjrLYlHn_Q | |||
| RunOut #117: How Two Big Wall Noobs Free Climbed the Nose | 29 déc. 2023 | 01:45:31 | |
Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal are both 26 years old, from Sheffield, England, and have been competing on plastic since they were 12. But once slapping plastic lost its allure, these two climbers found themselves dreaming of adventure. And adventure they found, as they spent a month fumbling their way into the world of big-wall climbing during a month long trip to Yosemite National Park earlier this year. And the unlikely duo emerged from their trip with one of the greatest prizes in climbing: a free ascent of the Nose. We caught up with the lads and talked about how they pulled it off. But first, your increasingly trivia-oriented show hosts look back on 2023 and try to recall what the hell happened. Last, damn good Buddy Spray from RunOut RopeGun Cooper Houston. Show NotesTwo Retired Comp Climbers Pull Off a Rare Free Ascent of the Nose on Climbing.com Follow Alex Waterhouse on Instagram Follow Billy Ridal on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #116: Mary Catherine Eden Charms the Black Mamba | 13 déc. 2023 | 01:18:26 | |
Mary Catherine Eden is probably best known for popular Instagram account @tradprincess, but she’s far more than just another online influencer. She’s recently ticked one of the hardest crack climbs in the country, Black Mamba (5.14b), joining a small group of women, if not people of any flavor, who have climbed 5.14 on gear. We talk about her love of crack climbing, progression, “eating her veggies,” and balancing it all in life. But first, your lovable disgruntled show hosts grumble about new proposals that seek to regulate our ability to place bolts in Wilderness. Our final bit comes all the way from Glasgow, UK, as Dan Brown combines his love of climbing with music. Show NotesNews of Mary’s ascent of Black Mamba Access Fund report on the latest climbing management plans Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut 115: Jakob Schubert Goes B.I.G. (Plus Jared Leto’s big TR) | 23 nov. 2023 | 01:33:34 | |
Jakob Schubert is a four-time World Champion, an Olympic bronze medalist, and he has more IFSC gold medals than any other male competitor. He’s also sent some of the hardest routes in the world, including, most recently, a first ascent of Project B.I.G. in Flatanger, which he rated 9c, making it only the third route ever to be given this grade. Our interview with Jakob takes us behind the scenes on his livestream of sending B.I.G.; his ticklist of some of the hardest routes in the world, especially Chris Sharma lines; who he thinks might be a contender in the next Olympics; and his love of American football. But first, we talk about Jared Leto’s toprope ascent of the Empire State Building, and try to figure out why everyone so mad. Today’s final bit comes from OG local legend Joel Brady and his band d’Artagnan and the Banjoman. Show NotesFollow Jakob Schubert on Instagram. Subscribe to Jakob Schubert’s YouTube Channel. Climbing.com’s news report on Project B.I.G. Jared Leto Climbs Empire State Building on BBC Photo of Jared Leto climbing by Renan Ozturk on the NatGeo feed Follow Joel Brady on Instagram “I’m Dying” by d’Artagnan and the Banjoman Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #114: Kris Hampton Taps into the Power of Climbing History | 10 nov. 2023 | 01:12:28 | |
Kris Hampton is the brains and brawn behind Power Company Climbing and the cohost of the podcast by the same name. His insatiable love of creating new things, whether that’s training plans for climbers or music, has led him to launch Written in Stone, a new climbing history podcast looking at monumental moments in our sport, decade by decade. But first, we respond to a couple of show listeners who had an absolutely insane exchange with climbing’s most notorious authority. No, we’re not talking about cops or park rangers. We’re talking about the kid who gives the belay test in the gym. Finally, we’re honored to share some new music from our super talented friend Andy Mann, a National Geographic photographer, director, and musician / storyteller. His new EP is called Full Moon Fight. Show NotesPower Company Climbing and Written in Stone podcasts Follow Kris Hampton on Instagram Follow Andy Mann on Instagram and check out his music here Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly | 24 oct. 2023 | 01:23:36 | |
RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly This fall, two American women found themselves in an unlikely race to reach the summit of Shishapangma, and thereby earn themselves a place in the record books as being the first American woman to have done all 14 8,000-meter peaks (with oxygen). Unfortunately, both Anna Gutu and Gina Rzucidło, alongside their respective Sherpa guides Mingmar Sherpa and Tenjen Lama, perished in two separate avalanches about 30 minutes apart around 7,800 meters. Did this informal competition lead them to making bad decisions that ultimately cost everyone their lives? To make sense of this terrible tragedy, as well as to discuss some of the ongoing issues around competency, infrastructure, and regulations within the Himalayan guiding industry, we speak to Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow Expeditions. Adrian has guided numerous high-altitude peaks, including many summits of Mount Everest, and his company Alpenglow leads over 30 international expeditions each year. And he has also personally climbed Mount Everest and K2 without using oxygen, and notably made the first ski descent of Makalu. But first, your friendly neighborhood climbing podcasters think about what would happen if the Rapture came for pro climbers and they were all smite’d away from this good, green earth. Would that change anything about the climbing we know and love? Last, today’s final bit comes from an experimental instrumental band called Les Rhinoceros, with drums and percussion played by climber and friend of the pod Jon Burrier. Show NotesVia Explorer’s Web: “What Happened on Shishapangma: The Climbers Speak Out” Shishapangma Avalanche: Two U.S. Women, Two Sherpas Dead/Missing Follow Jon Burrier on Instagram and check out his SoundCloud Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com | |||
| RunOut #112: America’s First Climbing Gym Owner Sounds the Alarm | 10 oct. 2023 | 01:31:25 | |
Our guest today is Rich Johnston, the president and owner of Vertical World in Seattle, known as America’s First Climbing Gym (TM). He’s also the founding chairman of the Climbing Wall Association, where he served for 16 years, and a board member on The Mountaineers. Rich tells us about the earliest days of the climbing-wall industry, why he never thought climbing gyms would succeed, and how important culture and philosophy are to creating a community of climbers that abide by the inherent risk doctrine. All of this is a prelude to discussing an important bellwether lawsuit that was just settled involving a climber who didn’t clip himself in properly to an auto belay, and still came away with a whopping settlement in his favor. But first, your favorite climbing podcast hosts talk about the nebulous rules and etiquette for passing people on a multi-pitch climb. When should you let people play through? And is it ever OK to just pass without permission? Last but not least, our Final Bit comes to us from listener, climber, fellow dad, and self-proclaimed “normal guy” from Boise, Idaho, Alan Keller. HIs band is called Prairie Mountain Plain and this new song “North Bound and West” is from their latest album While They Sleep. Show NotesClimbing Mag: Gym and Auto Belay Manufacturer to Pay $6M in Settlement for Auto Belay Accident Evening Sends: Will Climbing Gyms Survive the Lawsuits? The plaintiff’s attorney’s press release. | |||
| RunOut #111: A Fine Line for Graham Zimmerman | 19 sept. 2023 | 01:25:02 | |
Today’s guest is Graham Zimmerman, an alpinist, a recipient of the Piolet d’Or and a director at Protect Our Winters, a climate-advocacy group. His new book is “A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.” But first, cave raves are all fun and games until your favorite crag gets shut down. Your favorite climbing podcaster hosts try to figure out where their personal boundaries lie for self-policing the climbing world. Our final bit is an original ode to Vedauwoo by climbing couple Morgan Shannon and Ben Baltich. Show NotesFollow Graham Zimmerman on Instagram | |||