The Jewellerian - Stories of Jewels – Détails, épisodes et analyse

In this final episode of my exclusive interview with Kieran McCarthy, director of Warstki and curator of Faberge in London: Romance to Revolution at the V&A Museum, we discuss the utterly extraordinary circumstances that led him to discover the long lost "Third Imperial Easter Egg" by Fabergé. It had originally been given by Tsar Alexander III to his wife, Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, for Easter in 1887. Kieran describes what is thought to have happened to the egg from the time it was confiscated and taken from the Imperial Cabinet by the Bolsheviks in 1917, to being acquired by Wartski for a private collector from the home of a scrap metal merchant in the USA in 2014. 

We also talk about the other two missing eggs that are thought to still exist and which are hidden/ lost somewhere. 

Listen to the end and you will hear us discuss the role Faberge had in the fall of the Romanovs.

www.wartski.com

www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/faberge

www.josiegoodbody.com/podcasts

www.instagram.com/josiegoodbody/?hl=en 

In the second part of my exclusive interview with Kieran McCarthy - organised in collaboration with the V&A Museum and recorded in London in October 2021 - we discuss Faberge's firm entry into English society with, firstly an office in London and then a standalone store. 

The boutique at 173 Bond Street became the home away from home for the Russian emigré community, many of whom had escaped their motherland in the early 1900s. Grand Duke Michael Mikhailovich, grandson of Emperor Nicholas I would salute the portraits of the Tsar and Tsarina that hung on the walls in the London salon. And the many American heiresses, who had married into English aristocracy, would spend afternoons buying gifts to send back to their motherland. In fact Feodorowna Lady Alington (herself named after the name taken by Russian Tsarinas on marriage) proclaimed that all guests at her Christmas parties must exchange gifts from Faberge! 

Of course one of the reasons that Faberge opened in London and not Paris, was thanks to the British Royal Family, already ardent supporters of the St Petersburg goldsmiths. Queen Alexandra, sister to the Dowager Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, had began a formidable collection whilst Princess of Wales - much of which had been gifted by her Russian relatives. Indeed her sister Maria Feodorovna was so annoyed that Faberge had opened in London that she famously said “Now that that silly Fabergé has his shop in London, you have everything, and I can’t send you anything new, so I am furious.” 

I do hope that you enjoy this fabulous second episode with the inimitable Kieran and come back for the last episode - his remarkable discovery of one of the missing Imperial Eggs. 

In this episode I speak with Eddie LeVian, ninth generation of the family jewellers of Le Vian.

He tells the wonderful tale of his ancestors, the Levys, who in the 1700s guarded the Shah of Persia's treasures; which included the Koh-I-Noor and how the Shah took it from a Mughal emperor of India. He also talks about the beautiful elephant on the episode cover, set with hundreds of Persian turquoise cabochons and how Le Vian famously made Chocolate Diamonds the delicious treat they are today! 

Le Vian's jewellery, based out of NYC, is sold all around the world.

In 2019 the brand held an event at the Tower of London, home of the Koh-I-Noor, to celebrate ten years of being in the UK - sold at Ernest Jones. 

Go to my instagram @josiegoodbody for more pictures of beautiful jewels by Le Vian.

www.levian.com

www.josiegoodbody.com

In this episode, entitled 'Coco Chanel's Diamonds', I speak with Sarah Duncan, Head of Jewellery at Chiswick Auction House in London.

We talk about, Bijoux de Diamants, the one and only collection of real diamond jewellery that Gabrielle Chanel herself created in 1932, in collaboration with the De Beers endorsed, Guild of Diamond Merchants. 

For someone who had hitherto criticised the "ostentatious glitter of real jewellery" and designed only costume jewellery "because it was devoid of arrogance in an era of overly easy luxury", she now declared that she wanted to "cover women in constellations" and "chose diamonds because they hold the greatest value within the smallest volume".
What changed her mind?

For more pictures of the jewels go to my Instagram @josiegoodbody or www.josiegoodbody.com

Follow Sarah Duncan on Instagram @sarah_j_duncan 

In this episode, entitled Plastic Fantastic after her latest collection, I speak with jewellery designer Tessa Packard.
Tessa has innovatively upcycled lucite to create the fittings, in which are set beautiful gemstones that both clash and complement the bold coloured plastic shapes and forms, of the pieces of fine jewellery.
Plastic Fantastic is inspired by the glamour of the 1950s pool party, with its sheeny neon glossiness.

Tessa and I also discuss the use of plastic in costume jewellery since its invention in 1907.

I can't wait for you to fall in love with these pieces that you can see by clicking www.tessapackard.com or on Tessa's Instagram @tessapackardlondon

@josiegoodbody

www.josiegoodbody.com

Today, jewellery historian and lecturer, Vanessa Cron talks about the spectacular sparkles of the Belle Epoque. 

The Belle Epoque of Continental Europe, The Edwardian Era of England and The Gilded Age of America was a period of frivolity and excess - seen in enormously luxurious houses, parties and jewels.

The Court of Versailles and Queen Marie Antoinette were sought as inspiration for the years 1890 to 1900s and ribbons, garlands and florals were interpreted in decadent white jewels - a predominance of diamonds and pearls set in platinum - which were worn to display the wealth of the wearer, or indeed her husband! 

Nothing was too much and Queen Alexandra with her diamond encrusted dog collars, strands of diamonds and pearls, and spectacular tiaras was the epitome, indeed the 'influencer', of the era. 

Listen to Vanessa describe an era never to be seen again. 

Pictures on my Instagram @josiegoodbody.

Find Vanessa on Instagram @jewelsandthegang 

Produced by Tom Jobling at Mill Farm Music. 

Today on the day of HRH the Duke of Edinburgh's funeral - I am releasing a short podcast on his little known role as a jewellery designer of three significant pieces that he gave Her Majesty the Queen. 

You can view images of the pieces on my instagram @josiegoodbody as well as the full transcript of the podcast on my website www.josiegoodbody.com 

To view the Antrobus Collection, jewels inspired by the original designs by the Duke of Edinburgh at George Pragnell jewellers click here

Podcast produced by Tom Jobling at Mill Farm. 

In today's episode I speak with Emily Barber, Jewellery Director of Bonhams UK. 

Tune in to hear of her meticulous journey to authenticate the extraordinarily beautiful Hope Spinel. Bonhams sold the jewel, set as a brooch surrounded by diamonds, in September 2015 for three diamonds its estimate at just under a million pounds/ £1m! It was last sold 98 years previously for £1,060 – the equivalent of £80,000 in today's money.

The Hope Spinel was a sister stone to the Hope Diamond: both part of the greatest ever private gem collection belonging to Henry Philip Hope.

The French mineralogist René Just Haüy described Hope as "one of the most distinguished patrons of the arts of his time." When he died in 1839, his collection was viewed as "...one of most perfect collections of diamonds and precious stones that has, perhaps, ever been possessed by a private individual...".

We also talk about other incredible jewels that Emily has sold during her 17 years at the auction house. And some tips on how to become to a jewellery specialist, for those wondering how on earth you can handle such exquisite pieces of jewellery and gems.

@gemilybarber 

https://www.bonhams.com/press_release/20045/ Hope Spinel post sale press release.

Pictures on @josiegoodbody and www.josiegoodbody.com

Just in time for Easter - I am talking with Sophie Law, a Bonhams Russian expert and Faberge Egg aficionado, oh yes - and fellow author.

Tune in to learn everything about the most beautiful eggs in the world. Including the extraordinary story of a missing egg that was almost melted down, but instead proven to be Faberge - and sold for £20m! And one of the Queen's exquisite eggs which forever had been thought to be by Boucheron, but instead was a Tsar Imperial Faberge Egg. Why Tsar Alexander III decided to start this tantalizing tradition of giving his wife Tsarina Maria Feodorovna an Easter by Faberge in 1885, and how they perhaps started to symbolise the extravagance of the Romanovs, and their ultimate and devastating downfall. 

Go to www.josiegoodbody.com to see images of some of the eggs we talk about

Read my short story of a missing Faberge Egg for @mywardrobehq here :https://bit.ly/3cLQZHz

Or Instagram @josiegoodbody

Sophie's book, Olga's Egg, is available on her website: www.sophielawconsultancy.com

Toby Faber's brilliant book Faberge's Eggs - is an encyclopedic history of these eggs and well worth reading: https://amzn.to/3cMmd13 

Suzy Menkes's book on Royal Jewels: https://amzn.to/3wnBsoW

In this episode I speak with Diane-Sophie Lanselle, director of communications at Mellerio. 

Mellerio is the oldest jeweller in the world which not only still exists, but remains in the same family as when it began almost five hundred years in the mid 1500s. In the early 1600s, Marie de Medici granted them the permission to sell their jewels in France and since that date, they have created jewels for every queen and empress, including of course Queen Marie Antoinette and Empress Josephine. 

Nowadays Mellerio's jewels can still be seen in many of the collections of European Crown Jewels. 

Please tune into discover how this remarkable family who, along with a chimney sweep, saved the life of the child King of France in 1613, to having a boutique on Rue de la Paix, full of ledgers describing the jewellery transactions of almost every aristocrat in France. Including one on the actual day that the Bastille was stormed  - July 17th 1789!

www.mellerio.fr

@melleriojoaillier

www.josiegoodbody.com

@josiegoodbody 

Podcast producer - Tom Jobling