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| Titre | Date | Durée | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Week in Review: Luxury retail's struggles, Jeremy Allen White, Walmart does pre-owned luxury | 30 Aug 2024 | 00:25:18 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk about Nordstrom's earnings results and what they mean for the struggling luxury retail sector, thirsty Jeremy Allen White's second campaign for Calvin Klein, and Walmart’s move to start selling pre-owned luxury goods. | |||
| Jeff Rudes and Tara Rudes-Dann on L’Agence’s expansion to home and beauty | 28 Aug 2024 | 00:34:23 | |
After 16 years in business, advanced contemporary fashion brand L’Agence is hitting the gas on growth. On top of introducing a Jean Bar retail concept, starting with a new store in L.A., the brand is expanding internationally to Europe and Asia — since early July, it’s opened stores in Paris and Seoul. Category expansion is also a key part of the strategy: In the last three years, L’Agence has launched shoes and swimwear, and it will soon introduce sleepwear, intimate apparel and belts. In addition, building on the success of a recent candle release, the brand will be going deeper into the home category. And a future beauty category, complete with cosmetics and fragrances made in Paris, is in the works.
According to L’Agence founder and chairman Jeff Rudes, customer behavior will determine the timing of the home and beauty category launches.
“She has to be so brand loyal that she’ll pick up the bottle [of perfume] at Saks and say, ‘I’ve got to try this.’ We’re not there yet,” he said. ”We’re very realistic about how to grow the brand. … She has to trust us and vote for what we’re doing. It’s all about timing. We have to get her to love more of what we’re doing, and then we’ll capture her [as a customer in other categories], for sure.”
Also on the podcast, Rudes and L’Agence fashion director Tara Rudes-Dann spoke about their New York Fashion Week plans, the new standards in customer service, and the road to “lifestyle brand.” | |||
| Week in Review: Fashion at the Olympics and new creative director departures | 26 Jul 2024 | 00:30:41 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we take a look at the Paris Olympics, which begin Friday night, including some of our favorite (and least favorite) opening ceremony outfits and the many ways brands are getting in on the excitement. Later, we talk about the week's big creative director departures, including Peter Hawkings from Tom Ford, and why creative director tenures are trending shorter. | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Emerging Parisian designer Jude Ferrari — 'Buyers never buy from a brand’s first two seasons' | 29 Sep 2023 | 00:24:23 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In a dedicated podcast series running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event, as driven by technology.
In this episode, we sit down with Maria Buccellati, co-owner and CEO of Faith Connexion, the 20-year-old fashion brand that hosted a Paris Fashion Week show on Wednesday. Prior to the runway show, the brand wiped its Instagram clean before posting a series of images promoting the event and the brand’s plan to make spring 2024 a “redefining season.” Buccellati explained that, moving forward, the brand is taking a collaborative, “Faith Tribe” approach to design and prioritizing “phyygital” products. She also provided details on Faith Connexion’s planned expansion within the U.S. market. | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Faith Connexion's Maria Buccellati on debuting a collaborative design approach at Paris Fashion Week | 27 Sep 2023 | 00:26:46 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In a dedicated podcast series running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event, as driven by technology.
In this episode, we sit down with Maria Buccellati, co-owner and CEO of Faith Connexion, the 20-year-old fashion brand that hosted a Paris Fashion Week show on Wednesday. Prior to the runway show, the brand wiped its Instagram clean before posting a series of images promoting the event and the brand’s plan to make spring 2024 a “redefining season.” Buccellati explained that, moving forward, the brand is taking a collaborative, “Faith Tribe” approach to design and prioritizing “phyygital” products. She also provided details on Faith Connexion’s planned expansion within the U.S. market. | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Themoirè's Francesca Monaco on the evolution of sustainable fashion at Milan Fashion Week | 22 Sep 2023 | 00:24:45 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In a dedicated podcast series running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event, as driven by technology.
In this episode, we sit down with Francesca Monaco, the co-founder of the Milanese handbag and accessories brand Themoiré. Fresh off the brand’s show in Milan on Wednesday, Monaco spoke about how Themoirè uses its seasonal fashion shows to highlight the pillars of the brand, including its use of sustainable materials and its work with artisans from around the world. Monaco said the industry has made strides in the availability of better sustainable materials that can stand up to traditional animal leather, in terms of quality and price. But, as she explains in this episode, “We’re still at just the beginning.” | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Lauren Amos on committing to street style and shopping Paris Fashion Week | 21 Sep 2023 | 00:28:53 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In a dedicated podcast series running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event, as driven by technology.
In this episode, we sit down with Lauren Amos, the founder of Atlanta-based retailers Wish and Antidote, which focus on streetwear and luxury fashion, respectively. Amos is also a Fashion Month regular and a bona fide street-style star — her avant-garde OOTDs have been chronicled by industry publications from Vogue to The Coveteur. Amos was joined on the podcast by Karlo Steel, Antidote's creative director and buyer, who hits the Fashion Month circuit with Amos every season. But, as he explained, it's more work than it is play. Seventy-five percent of the company's merchandise buys are made within days of their show debuts, he said. Amos and Steel also discuss the relevance of fashion shows, the state of luxury consumer behavior and the shows they're shopping this season. | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Susan Fang on leveraging AI for her London Fashion Week show | 15 Sep 2023 | 00:29:35 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In this podcast series, running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event.
In this episode, we sit down with Susan Fang, founder of her namesake fashion brand, which will be debuting its spring collection during this season's London Fashion Week. With headquarters in China and the U.K., the brand — best known for pastel ruffled gowns — moved its focus to the Chinese market when China's lockdowns last year left the designer stranded. Now, the brand is back to its international outlook with a renewed focus on sustainability and technology. Ahead of her show, Fang discusses why she prioritized AI, and why balancing technology and creativity is a challenge for designers. She also talks about her collaboration strategy, having teamed with brands including Nike, Zara and Crocs. | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: The show formats and product strategies that ruled NYFW | 13 Sep 2023 | 00:23:05 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In this podcast series, running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event.
In this final episode of our NYFW coverage, Glossy senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest brand strategies of the week, discuss insights from backstage designer interviews and give a preview of Glossy's ongoing Fashion Month podcast coverage. | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Adeam's Hanako Maeda on making the most of a NYFW show | 12 Sep 2023 | 00:27:54 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In this podcast series, running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event.
In this episode, we sit down with Hanako Maeda, the founder, CEO and creative director of the luxury fashion brand Adeam. Made in Maeda's home country of Japan, Adeam's clothes have been a favorite of Asian and Asian-American celebrities like Harry Shum Jr. and Naomi Osaka. Maeda talks about how ballet shaped her latest collection, how brands can make the most of a slot at NYFW, and how a fashion show can benefit a brand in ways that lookbooks and Instagram posts can't. This episode was recorded in the midst of NYFW at Showfields' store in NoHo.
Related reads:
NYFW designer Hanako Maeda on testing ‘the limits of digital’ during the pandemic
Are fashion week parties really worth the expense? | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Highsnobiety editor-in-chief Willa Bennett on building content, commerce and experiences around NYFW | 11 Sep 2023 | 00:37:00 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In this podcast series, running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event.
In this episode, we sit down with Willa Bennett, who joined fashion and media company Highsnobiety as its editor-in-chief in 2022. Highsnobiety had a presence at New York Fashion Week with a three-day “Neu York” pop-up shop and various on-site events. Bennett talks about how the company catered its content, commerce and experiential strategies to this season's fashion week. She also discusses how Highsnobiety covered the event and how that plays into her focused approach to running the publication. This episode was recorded amid bustling NYFW, in Showfields’ NoHo location.
Related reads:
With Highsnobiety scooped up, are other streetwear blogs next?
‘The new definition of luxury’: Highsnobiety unpacks how the landscape of high-end fashion has tilted toward accessibility | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Studio 189's Rosario Dawson and Abrima Erwiah on using fashion as an agent for social change | 10 Sep 2023 | 00:27:32 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In this podcast series, running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event.
In this episode, we sit down with Rosario Dawson and Abrima Erwiah, founders of Studio 189, the 10-year-old fashion brand and social enterprise that hosted a runway show on Sunday. CFDA award-winning Studio 189 sustainably produces its clothing in Africa, plus it supports education, skills training and community-led projects. Dawson and Erwiah discuss how they’ve built and grown a company with purpose, and how a consistent presence at New York Fashion Week has served the brand well. This episode was recorded amid bustling NYFW, in Showfields’ NoHo location.
Related reads:
NYFW Briefing: Fashion brands tackle social change
The Folklore’s Amira Rasool on building a shopping platform with African and Black-owned brands at the forefront | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: NYFW designer Jackson Wiederhoeft on learning from Thom Browne and gaining the CFDA's support | 09 Sep 2023 | 00:19:22 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In this podcast series, running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event.
In this episode, we sit down with emerging designer Jackson Wiederhoeft, whose training includes Parsons School of Design and three years under Thom Browne. Like Thom Browne’s, Wiederhoeft's collections are decidedly theatrical, whimsical and, therefore, perfectly suited to a runway. He discusses the importance of taking part in New York Fashion Week, as well as the business perks of his recent honor of being named an interim CFDA member.
Related reads:
Dora Maar CEO Lauren Wilson on leveraging NYFW’s marketing opportunities
Luxury Briefing: The new designer brand playbook champions lifestyle and accessibility | |||
| Christy Dawn's founders on making 'farm-to-closet' fashion a reality | 24 Jul 2024 | 00:53:11 | |
Since launching the sustainability-focused fashion brand Christy Dawn in 2014, co-founders and partners Aras and Christy Dawn Baskauskas have prioritized intentionality and ethical practices. For example, the brand uses deadstock fabrics to create apparel. Plus the Baskauskases have built and maintained relationships with farmers and local manufacturers in Los Angeles, allowing them to build on their sustainability. efforts. In 2021, they launched the Land Stewardship Program, empowering consumers to support the brand's regenerative farming initiative by investing in plots of land used to grow cotton for items like the bestselling Dawn Dress.
A decade into its existence, Christy Dawn's sustainable practices, signature pieces and A-list fans have continued to fuel its popularity. Taylor Swift, Selena Gomez, Emma Watson and Dakota Johnson have been spotted wearing the brand.
Now, Christy Dawn is in expansion mode. In 2021, it opened a flagship store on L.A.'s highly frequented Abbott Kenney Road after closing its first store on Lincoln Boulevard due to the pandemic. According to Aras, in 2022, the brand reportedly made over $15 million in revenue. This year, Christy Dawn is expanding into the men's and intimates product categories.
On the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast, the founders discuss how they are establishing a system of "farm-to-closet" fashion and thinking about growth. | |||
| Fashion Month Edition: Dora Maar CEO Lauren Wilson on leveraging NYFW's marketing opportunities | 08 Sep 2023 | 00:19:54 | |
It’s a new era for fashion month, where designer collections are just one piece of the pie. As brands across price points and specialties aim to compete in the increasingly competitive retail landscape, more are taking advantage of the opportunity and approaching it strategically. They’re cutting through the noise with innovative marketing tactics, introducing new commerce plays and leveraging advanced digital capabilities to best showcase their products. In this podcast series, running throughout Fashion Month Spring 2024, Glossy and influential leaders are breaking down the evolution of the experiential event, as driven by technology.
First up is Lauren Wilson, founder and CEO of Dora Maar, the luxury e-tailer that allows shoppers to buy from the closets of fashion icons. Along with sharing New York Fashion Week's importance to her evolving business, she discusses her plans for taking advantage of marketing and networking opps throughout the week. This episode was recorded amid bustling NYFW, in Showfields' NoHo location.
Related reads:
NYFW designer Jackson Wiederhoeft on learning from Thom Browne and gaining the CFDA’s support
Fashion Briefing: Inside the rise of influencer-driven resale sites | |||
| Serial entrepreneur Marcia Kilgore on why her footwear brand is 'really an engineering company' | 06 Sep 2023 | 00:43:44 | |
Marcia Kilgore was born to be an entrepreneur.
"I found it very difficult to take direction from other people, … and I always found it difficult to work in places where the standards of the person who was running the place were, from my perspective, mediocre; it would frustrate me to no end," she said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast.
Plus, her personality traits are befitting a successful entrepreneur, she said. Among them: "being super curious, being solution-oriented, loving to experiment, having solutions for any kind of hurdles or roadblocks that come along, and being tough enough to never give in."
Based on her track record, she's used that to her advantage. Kilgore sold her first business, Bliss Spa, to LVMH in 1999. That was before starting the "masstige" beauty brand Soap & Glory, which she sold to Walgreens Boots Alliance in 2011. In the years since, she's launched Soaper Duper, Beauty Pie and FitFlop, the latter of which she described as a groundbreaker among footwear brands.
"I had this idea for a shoe that would align your body when you walked in it and give you energy [by] rebounding the energy from the ground up," she said. "Shoes had always just been drawn [by designers]. No one was thinking about how the shoe affects the person walking in it. … [FitFlop] is really an engineering company."
Kilgore said her entry into the footwear category, after building her career in beauty, made sense given that she’d been "very into reflexology" while running her spa business. As a one-time personal trainer, she was also into wellness. The shoe "connected the dots," in terms of her experience, she said.
Since first launching through the retailer Sweaty Betty — through which one customer email sold 8,000 pairs of its shoes — FitFlop has taken off internationally. Now, having opened the brand's first U.S. store, in SoHo in April, Kilgore is charting its stateside growth.
Related reads:
Sarah Flint and CEO Mary Beech: ‘2020 was the year we built the foundation to really scale’
Are heels over? What the footwear market will look like post-coronavirus | |||
| Week in Review: Kylie Jenner's potential new brand, Rolex's Bucherer acquisition, Lanvin's struggles | 01 Sep 2023 | 00:25:58 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we discuss the rumor that Kylie Jenner is allegedly planning to launch a “quiet luxury” brand with Jens and Emma Grede, the executives behind other brands in the Kardashian universe including Skims and Good American. Later, we talk Rolex buying Bucherer and the troubles facing Lanvin.
Read more:
Emma Grede, Good American | Glossy 50 2022
Can Rolex’s new resale program and booming secondhand market coexist?
Fashion Briefing: Lanvin Group stokes growth with fresh talent, celebrity faces and bags | |||
| Rebecca Hessel Cohen: LoveShackFancy's future could include restaurants and hotels | 30 Aug 2023 | 00:44:19 | |
LoveShackFancy's tenth year in business has been a busy one. This month alone, the fashion brand has launched a product collaboration with Gap and announced an expansion to the beauty category. Its first fragrance will hit Sephora stores on September 6, six days before its New York Fashion Week presentation-slash-party.
It's safe to say that LoveShackFancy's feminine, flirty, vintage-inspired look has caught on. And steering its popularity is founder and creative director Rebecca Hessel Cohen. As she describes on this week's episode of the Glossy Podcast, her growth strategy for the brand includes "taking its iconic prints, colors and sensibility, and bringing it to life in different categories, price points and markets."
Before Gap, LoveShackFancy's brand collaborators included Target, American Girl, Bogner and Ford Bronco, among others. And, following fragrance, there's no telling what categories the brand will tackle next.
"Our customers want [LoveShackFancy] wine, champagne, and even hotels and restaurants," Hessel Cohen said, referencing a recent social media poll by the brand. "So, you never know. It's just all exciting and fun — and sometimes, the more unexpected, the better." | |||
| Week in Review: Abercrombie & Fitch's comeback and fashion's community playbook | 25 Aug 2023 | 00:28:18 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Danny Parisi and Glossy Pop reporter Sara Spruch-Feiner break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
On this week’s episode, we discuss Abercrombie & Fitch's comeback over the last few years, including its ability to shed the exclusive, elitist image it held in the 2000s. Later, we talk about community building in fashion and how brands are using live events to build loyalty. | |||
| Sporty & Rich's Emily Oberg: 'Brands with a strong image stand the test of time' | 23 Aug 2023 | 00:50:01 | |
Emily Oberg, founder and owner of the 5-year-old wellness-based brand Sporty & Rich, wants to change the definition of success.
"Never not working isn't cool. … You don't need to have a crazy work schedule, where you feel like you can't keep up, [in order] to be successful," Oberg said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast. "At one point, that was the definition of success, but it's changing. And I want to be part of that change."
After starting her career in streetwear, working as a video personality at Complex before heading up womenswear at Kith, Oberg saw the opportunity to build an owned brand based on the success of her mood-board-style Instagram account, Sporty & Rich. She co-founded the brand as it stands in 2018. It has since earned fans including Hailey Bieber, collaborated with brands like Adidas, opened an experiential store in NYC's SoHo neighborhood and reached $30 million in annual revenue. Along with building Sporty & Rich to a $200 million brand, Oberg has big plans for its future.
"It's my vision to make a Sporty & Rich country club, where you have everything: colonics, your naturopath, you can do your blood work, you can do your tennis lessons, you can go to the pool, you can see your trainer, you can do a Pilates class," she said. "It would take a lot of resources and a lot of investment, but I hope to have these in every major city. That's [a place] where I'd want to spend my time." | |||
| Week in Review: Underwear brand Parade acquired, people are abandoning Threads, Aldi enters the sneaker game | 18 Aug 2023 | 00:29:10 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
On this week’s episode, we talk about the Gen-Z DTC underwear brand Parade selling itself off to a more established underwear licensing company, the reason so many people have abandoned Meta’s Twitter competitor Threads in the last month and the $13 sneaker line released by grocery store chain Aldi.
Further reading:
How Parade is building an underwear brand based on Gen-Z values
Fashion Briefing: Are text-based social platforms still valuable for brands? | |||
| Kurt Geiger CEO Neil Clifford: Private equity is 'underrated' | 16 Aug 2023 | 00:37:46 | |
After 20 years at the helm of 60-year-old British footwear brand Kurt Geiger, Neil Clifford is more than halfway to leading the company to a record sales year.
Kurt Geiger has already made big, impactful changes. For example, five years ago, Clifford hired Michael Kors alum Steven Sousa to lead Kurt Geiger's North American expansion; the market now drives bigger sales for the brand than the U.K. The company has also expanded to other international markets, with its Dubai-based store quickly becoming its most successful, in terms of its sales per square foot. Kurt Geiger has 70 stores in the U.K.
In addition to stores, the company has upped its investment in marketing, doubling its dedicated budget in each of the past two years. The focus of the strategy is creating compelling imagery.
"It's very British [to be] much better at creativity and fun and joy than making money and [developing] business strategies," Clifford said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast. "But look at how many brands around the world have British creative directors. That's not a coincidence."
Moving forward, thanks in part to a new round of funding, more stores are on the way. Kurt Geiger will open a new London flagship in mid-September. The brand then plans to launch 20-30 stores in North America over five years, starting in October. After three locations in Mexico, it will set up shop in Florida, Southern California and New York early next year.
And in November, it will expand focus to its men's business with plans for a big, product-focused campaign.
"We focus on design. We spend hours every day talking about product and … great value," Clifford said. "And we hope that formula transpires into something super desirable and super differentiating and disrupting — because we as Brits like to disrupt; anarchy is in our blood." | |||
| Week in Review: Allbirds struggles, Victoria's Secret brings back old models, British stylists unionize | 11 Aug 2023 | 00:28:26 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk about Allbirds struggling to stay on top of its declining sales, Victoria’s Secret going back to its old self with iconic models from its past and British celebrity stylists unionizing. | |||
| Rixo's Henrietta Rix on Brexit, US expansion and the issues with bridal shopping | 09 Aug 2023 | 00:32:55 | |
Starting with a website and a tiny budget, friends Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey launched women's fashion brand Rixo in 2015 while studying fashion in London. Eight years later, the brand is growing, with a 70% revenue increase in 2022, plus it's launching new categories and expanding within the U.S. market. Rixo is best known for its vintage-inspired printed dresses and counts Taylor Swift and the Duchess of Cambridge as fans.
Rixo sells through its own stores, wholesale channels including independent stores and department stores, and its own e-commerce site. During the 2022 fiscal year, it earned $21 million in revenue, compared to $12 million the year prior. In April, the brand launched a flagship store on London's King’s Road, enlisting McCloskey’s twin sister, Culpa Studio's Gemma McCloskey, to design it The 5,000-square-foot space includes a standalone bridal suite that's available for private appointments, as well as alterations services, a coffee kiosk, cocktails and a private events “apartment” space on the second floor.
In January, Rixo introduced product categories including homeware, nightwear and bridal. Rixo is the only brand on the London Fashion Week schedule producing clothes in U.K. sizes through 24. It will launch its first styles available up to size 26 with influencer Abisola Omole in July.
On the Glossy Podcast, co-founder Henrietta Rix discusses the brand’s plans for the U.S., its new category strategy, the need for more inclusive sizing in the contemporary fashion market, the brand effects of Brexit and Rixo's mission to redefine accessible bridal shopping experiences. | |||
| Week in Review: EssilorLuxottica buys Supreme, Coperni to show at Disneyland, Balenciaga tackles Apple Vision Pro | 19 Jul 2024 | 00:32:39 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk about the surprise sale of streetwear brand Supreme to luxury eyewear group EssilorLuxottica, which has no other apparel or fashion brands in its portfolio. Later, we talk about why Coperni is hosting its Paris Fashion Week show at Disneyland and how luxury brands including Balenciaga are making use of the poorly-selling Apple Vision Pro. | |||
| Week in Review: Birkenstock's IPO, Prada's beauty launch and Phoebe Philo's return to fashion | 04 Aug 2023 | 00:24:25 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
On this week’s episode, we discuss Birkenstock's road to IPO, Prada's beauty expansion via makeup and skin care, and Phoebe Philo's return to fashion, set to kick off in September. | |||
| Flower by Edie Parker's Brett Heyman on navigating 'wary' investors and dispensary-focused distribution | 02 Aug 2023 | 00:30:01 | |
Thirteen years ago, Brett Heyman launched Edie Parker. Focused on acrylic clutch handbags, which soon became customizable, the brand married Heyman’s lifelong love of collecting vintage with her experience in luxury accessories PR, working for brands including Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci. She got the company off the ground by securing retail partners including Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman and leveraging her stylist contacts to get the bags in the hands of celebrities.
“My background was so helpful [in starting the company],” she said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast. “I always tell [budding] founders that it's really great to work in the industry that you want to break into, [in order] to meet people and to [make] some contacts and have a leg up. … I knew a lot of people. Plus, I knew what was missing. And I knew how to promote it and who to get to promote it.”
In 2016, Heyman expanded Edie Parker’s product assortment to the home decor category. And three years later, she launched the cannabis-adjacent spinoff brand Flower by Edie Parker. Its products include lighters, grinders and rolling papers, all in Edie Parker’s signature colorful, retro aesthetic. Oh, and there’s also a handbag with a retractable lighter that’s taken TikTok by storm and changed the business. With its growth fueled by the Burn Bag's sales, just four years in, Flower by Edie Parker now makes up 50% of the company’s total sales.
On the podcast, Heyman discusses how she’s catering to Flower’s “much more engaged,” “much more excited” shoppers, plus how she’s holding true to her brand’s DNA while building a business in a federally illegal industry. | |||
| Week in Review: LVMH earnings, Mattel president joins Gap, Shein's legal troubles | 28 Jul 2023 | 00:27:49 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
On this week’s episode, we talk about LVMH’s earnings and how all of its advertising expenditures are impacting the bottom line. Plus, Mattel president Richard Dickson joins Gap as its new CEO, and Shein is juggling various lawsuits. | |||
| Caraa's Aaron Luo: 'We let the product take center stage' | 26 Jul 2023 | 00:44:05 | |
Aaron Luo launched the DTC bag brand Caraa in 2015 alongside CFDA Award-winning designer Carmen Chen Wu. Now, eight years into the brand’s life, Luo has another brand under his belt — Mercado — and a new perspective on how DTC brands can grow and be successful in the modern retail landscape.
“Back in the day, there were these people who came from a business background and came into DTC thinking, ‘Hey, there’s a waste of space here. We think we can do things better and cheaper and acquire customers quickly,’” Luo said. “I don’t want to say they never paid attention to the product, because many did. But marketing was much more important to them.”
But that era of DTC brands being able to grow by forcing customer acquisition and dumping money into Meta is over, he said. | |||
| Week in Review: Gucci's executive shakeup, Ralph Lauren's price hikes, the Lyst Index | 21 Jul 2023 | 00:23:50 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, international fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk about what's next for Gucci following its executive shakeup, whether or not Ralph Lauren’s price increase is a good thing, and which brands came out on top on the latest Lyst Index. | |||
| The RealReal’s Rati Sahi Levesque: ‘Last year was a reset year’ | 19 Jul 2023 | 00:43:46 | |
Luxury resale company The RealReal, which went public in June 2019, is nearing profitability.
“Next year, we will be profitable on a full-year basis,” Rati Sahi Levesque, the company’s president and chief operating officer, said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast.
And big changes were made to ensure the goal is met: “Last year was really a reset year. [After] looking at our product mix, our operating expenses and our real estate, we rejiggered the business in a lot of ways.”
That included making some layoffs, closing some stores and restricting the sourcing of inventory to individual consignors — no more buying products from brands. The RealReal’s total revenue for 2022 landed at $603 million, an increase of 29% year-over-year.
Now, Sahi Levesque said the company is focused on “discipline and execution,” when it comes to its 2024 plans. She also discussed the company's strategy for winning sellers, its celeb-fueled launch 12 years ago and its plans to open up to 50 stores within the next 10 years. | |||
| Week in Review: Global Fashion Summit takeaways, Omega's price increases, and fashion rental for travel catches on | 14 Jul 2023 | 00:25:07 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk through the highlights of Copenhagen's Global Fashion Summit, the factors driving Omega's second price increase within the year and the interesting new experiment by Japan Airlines allowing travelers to rent clothes versus pack them. | |||
| Kendra Scott CEO Tom Nolan: 'We've been bullish on retail, even through Covid' | 12 Jul 2023 | 00:38:40 | |
In 2021, Kendra Scott passed on the CEO title she’d held for her 20-year-old namesake jewelry company to Tom Nolan, a Ralph Lauren and Condé Nast veteran who’d joined Kendra Scott in 2015 as a member of the board of directors.
Between 2015-2021, Kendra Scott became “a very big business valued at more than $1 billion,” Nolan said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast.
And the brand is still in growth mode.
Kendra Scott recently entered the luxury jewelry market, plus it’s actively rolling out new stores. By the end of July, it will have 134 Kendra Scott stores across 35 U.S. states. “We've been aggressively pursuing retail and we've been really bullish on retail, even through Covid,” Nolan said.
The stores, which drive 50% of sales, double as event spaces; last year, 128 Kendra Scott stores hosted 20,000 total events. The Northeast is the brand’s fastest-growing U.S. market, and it’s currently expanding internationally through wholesale partners.
On the podcast, Nolan discusses Kendra Scott’s philanthropy-fueled success and his own career path which unexpectedly yet perfectly landed him in his current role. | |||
| Week in Review: Louis Vuitton's watch strategy, no more mushroom leather, Gabriela Hearst exits Chloé | 07 Jul 2023 | 00:27:46 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk about Louis Vuitton’s newly updated watch strategy that pushes its watch price points into the five-figure range, plus a mushroom-based leather alternative's discontinuation and Gabriela Hearst’s exit from Chloé. | |||
| Away CMO Carla Dunham: 'Digital is wonderfully optimized, but we still need contact' | 05 Jul 2023 | 00:33:52 | |
When Carla Dunham joined the luggage brand Away as its CMO in November 2022, the focus became expanding the DTC brand's marketing efforts through an on-the-pulse strategy.
Leveraging Dunham’s marketing experience spanning Foxtrot, Equinox, Kate Spade and Amazon, Away is now tapping into new audiences. The focus for the brand's marketing has shifted to using TV strategies, testing AI-integrated marketing and expanding the U.S. retail footprint.
An AI-powered pop-up in Venice, California on the weekend of June 24 promoted its new “Extraordinary Is Out There” campaign. Participants filled out questionnaires to create their ideal AI world and later received a curated postcard showing their ideal destination.
On the podcast, Dunham discussed why it's important for brands to engage in mobile TV audiences, why choosing strong store associates is especially important for travel goods brands and why functional design is key. According to Dunham, Away is currently focused on expanding its customer insights group and its presence in the U.S. | |||
| Vera Bradley’s CEO and CMO on the 'fine art’ of transforming a 42-year-old brand | 17 Jul 2024 | 00:38:20 | |
Last week, for the first time in its 40-plus-year history, the bag brand Vera Bradley revealed a 360-degree rebrand. Updates include a new logo, new products, new in-store and online experiences, and a new ambassador: actress and singer Zooey Deschanel.
Days prior, Glossy sat down with the company’s president and CEO, Jaqueline Ardrey, and CMO, Alison Hiatt, to discuss how the brand’s fresh look and feel play into the Project Restoration growth plan set by Ardrey last year. They also shared the challenges of reaching new audiences while retaining existing customers, and making big changes under the watchful eye of investors as a publicly traded company. | |||
| Week in Review: UN greenwashing guidance, Skims retail expansion, the Shein influencer trip | 30 Jun 2023 | 00:27:37 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk about the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen and new anti-greenwashing guidance from the U.N., Skims opening its first retail stores and the Shein influencer trip. | |||
| Founder Amahlia Stevens on selling Vitamin A Swimwear: ‘We’ve always been self-funded and under-resourced’ | 28 Jun 2023 | 00:29:33 | |
When designer Amahlia Stevens launched Vitamin A Swimwear in 2000, she was ahead of the curve. Along with championing body positivity by introducing the concept of bikini separates that can be mixed and matched, she prioritized sustainable, local production after getting a crash course on Patagonia's processes through her work with the brand.
Today, California-based Vitamin A sells 50% direct to consumer and 50% through its 200 wholesale channels, which include Holt Renfrew and Revolve.
Announced on Wednesday, Vitamin A was just acquired by Swim USA, a family-owned company that also counts Miraclesuit and Amoressa in its portfolio — its licensed brands include Polo Ralph Lauren and Reebok.
On the podcast, Stevens shares why the deal made sense for Vitamin A and how it will work to grow the "under-resourced" brand. She hinted that branded stores, international expansion and product collaborations are around the corner under the new ownership. | |||
| Week in Review: Pharrell's new vision for Louis Vuitton, Christopher Kane's troubles, Vans' upscale collection | 23 Jun 2023 | 00:28:39 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we take a deep dive into Pharrell Williams’ first collection for Louis Vuitton and its accompanying, extravagant Paris show. Later, we talk about the potential shutdown of Christopher Kane and the new premium line by Vans. | |||
| Frank and Oak's Elisabeth de Gramont: 'It's important to actually quantify our sustainability' | 21 Jun 2023 | 00:44:04 | |
Elisabeth de Gramont has been chief brand officer at the Canadian sustainable apparel brand Frank and Oak for more than two years. In that time, under her leadership, the brand's become more transparent and more communicative about its sustainable efforts than ever.
Just this year, Frank and Oak launched its first sustainability progress report, a 17-page document granting an inside look at the material impact of the brand’s production and the concrete steps it's taking to reduce that impact. The report was spearheaded by de Gramont herself, but it required the participation of almost every team at the company.
“We felt confident about how our factories and how we were doing things,” de Gramont said. “But it’s important for us to then say, 'OK, can we actually quantify what we’re doing and what we’re working toward?' We talk a lot about material science, so this was our chance to actually show what percentage of our clothing is using those sustainable fibers and what we’d like it to be.”
De Gramont joined the Glossy Podcast to talk more about how Frank and Oak communicates its sustainability goals to its audience and what related investments it's making now. For example, all of the brand's deliveries in Canada are currently being completed by electric vehicles. | |||
| Week in Review: Talking high-end jewelry news with Sotheby's Frank Everett | 16 Jun 2023 | 00:28:42 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi breaks down some of the biggest fashion news of the week. This week, he's joined by special guest co-host Frank Everett, vice chairman of jewels in the Americas for Sotheby's.
The two discuss Chanel's new tweed-inspired jewelry collection, the widening gap between aspirational shoppers and true luxury shoppers, and recent record-breaking sales of colored diamonds and rubies at Sotheby's. | |||
| Aureum Collective founder Cass DiMicco: 'You don't need a million followers to launch a brand' | 14 Jun 2023 | 00:34:42 | |
When Cass DiMicco founded her jewelry brand, Aureum Collective, in 2019, she became the face of the brand. An influencer in her own right with nearly 500,000 followers on Instagram, DiMicco models all the products and is featured heavily in the brand’s advertising, in addition to founding and designing for the brand.
According to DiMicco, she initially worried that her existing audience wouldn’t be enough to launch the brand. At the time, she only had 150,000 followers.
“I thought that you needed to have a million followers to be able to launch a successful brand, but I realized that’s not exactly the case,” DiMicco said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast. “I had 150,000 followers, but those people were all following me specifically for fashion and style. Whatever brand I ended up creating, their tastes would align with it.”
DiMicco spoke to Glossy about how she founded her brand, how her own influencer status plays into the brand’s marketing, and how she’s navigating pricing and luxury in the changing climate. | |||
| Week in Review: Telfar ends Bag Security, fashion returns to the office and Stitch Fix may leave the U.K. | 09 Jun 2023 | 00:25:13 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we talk about the end of Telfar's popular Bag Security Program, the impact of the return to the office for companies like Rent the Runway and the future of Stitch Fix in the U.K. | |||
| Jewelry designer Roxanne Assoulin: 'I don't want to be an aspirational brand' | 07 Jun 2023 | 00:34:12 | |
Roxanne Assoulin has been in the jewelry business for over 40 years. But, thanks to its reliance on bold colors and youthful designs, her 7-year-old namesake brand feels as fresh as ever. Prior to launching her own brand, Assoulin designed for major brands like Michael Kors and had her jewelry sold in major department stores like Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.
Her current brand took off thanks to boosts from influencers like Leandra Medine, who happens to be a friend of the family.
“We never paid influencers,” Assoulin said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast. “Leandra had dated my son when she, like, 17. She’s best friends with my daughter-in-law. I asked her to come to the office and tell me what she thought of what I was working on, and she took some pictures. I said, ‘Don’t post those pictures anywhere,’ and she said, ‘No worries, no worries.” That night, she posted them.”
The early buzz helped propel the brand, which grew 300% between 2017 and 2018. Now, Roxanne Assoulin is carried by both online retailers like MatchesFashion and brick-and-mortar stores like Nordstrom.
But in many ways, Assoulin said she’s still figuring out where to take the brand next. She characterized herself as a “gut person,” who focuses on her own creative sense to help guide the business through challenges like the pandemic and the current decreased spending caused by inflation. For this week's Glossy Podcast, she spoke with Glossy editor-in-chief Jill Manoff about this philosophy, as well as her work with influencers, her history in the business and the inspiration behind her colorful jewelry. | |||
| Week in Review: U.S. luxury spending, eBay's streetwear authentication, StockX lowers seller fees | 02 Jun 2023 | 00:20:21 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
In this week’s episode, we discuss the recent earnings forecast from Capri Holdings and its implications for the U.S. and Chinese luxury markets. We also talk about eBay’s new streetwear authentication program and StockX's restructuring of seller fees. | |||
| Brixton CEO Raph Peck: 'Liquidity is king right now’ | 31 May 2023 | 00:34:25 | |
In 2019, just ahead of the pandemic, Raph Peck joined Southern California-based Brixton as the hat brand’s CEO. Prior, Peck had spent five years as president of sports apparel brand Fanatics, and he’d also held leadership roles at Oakley, Under Armour and Adidas. According to Peck, the draw to Brixton was the unique challenge of making something large out of a smaller-scale company. At the time, the brand was 15 years old.
“Brixton is, in some ways, smaller than most of the challenges I’ve taken on in my career, but it’s much more complex,” Peck said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast. “It has a much narrower consumer focus, an underdeveloped direct-to-consumer channel — both in physical retail and in e-commerce — and a diverse product set, with headwear being nearly half of our revenue.”
Along with further developing Brixton’s existing sales channels and product categories, Peck saw the opportunity to expand the brand to new markets.
“Such a large percentage of our overall sales come from California,” he said. “So we [want to] take a company that's built a tremendous following regionally, and see if we can grow it in the United States and then, ultimately, globally.”
Of course, Covid and its lingering business effects have proven a disruption to most businesses’ plans. Peck shared how the pandemic has impacted his growth targets for Brixton, plus why profitability and lengthened dwell times are among his current goals. | |||
| Week in Review: Burberry layoffs, Saks's parent buys Neiman Marcus, Shein x Monse | 12 Jul 2024 | 00:26:16 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, we take a look at the layoffs at Burberry and what it says about the state of British luxury, the landmark acquisition plans for Saks Fifth Avenue parent company HBC to buy Neiman Marcus, and the surprising collaboration between Shein and Monse. | |||
| Week in Review: Luxury's vertical integration, slowing U.S. spending and the rise of the celebrity co-designed capsule | 26 May 2023 | 00:26:05 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
On this week’s episode, we talk about Chanel and Brunello Cucinelli teaming up to take part ownership of a mill in Italy, and the overall implications of vertical integration in the luxury market. We also discuss the recent slowdown in luxury spending in the U.S. and the rise of the celebrity-co-designed capsule collection, pegged to Dua Lipa and Versace's new collaboration. | |||
| Designer Michael Costello: 'You don't feel like a major player in the industry until you're sold at a high-end department store' | 24 May 2023 | 00:52:53 | |
Fashion designer Michael Costello came onto the scene by way of "Project Runway" in 2010. Now, his namesake brand, best known for glamorous, sexy dresses and inclusive sizes, is sold at Saks Fifth Avenue. Plus, he's behind Revolve's best-selling brand.
"I have the best of both worlds," he said, regarding designing for both his namesake brand and Revolve. "I get to create fantasy and high-end glamour, and really live out the things that come into my mind and that I dream about, which is the couture and over-the-top, gorgeous gowns. But I also get to make things that everyone can wear, [for Revolve]," he said.
Costello has sold at Revolve for the past six years, creating 120-180 exclusive pieces for the retailer per month.
And in 2022, his brand was picked up by Saks, which he calls his “I made it” moment.
In September, Costello will be participating in New York Fashion Week, after stepping away for three seasons before taking part in Revolve Gallery in September 2022. He plans to leverage a more intimate show format than in seasons past, to cater to long-term customers and buyers. "We want to see the impact this time. Before it was all for fun," he said. | |||
| Week in Review: Gucci's Seoul show, Bally's creative shakeup and AI's impact on shopping | 19 May 2023 | 00:20:58 | |
On the Glossy Week in Review podcast, fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news.
This week, we discuss why runway shows in South Korea are trending among luxury fashion brands including Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Plus, Bally and creative director Luigi Villaseñor part ways after just 17 months, and Google Shopping embraces AI, shining a light on the next era of retail. | |||
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