Explorez tous les épisodes du podcast Taqueando with Bill Esparza

All hell has broken loose at LA TACO. Following the firing of longtime reporter Memo Torres, the departure of Izzy Ramirez, and a series of increasingly contentious public statements, one of Los Angeles' most beloved independent publications finds itself at the center of an extraordinary controversy.

Bill Esparza and Rob break down the entire saga, from the ethical questions surrounding Torres' relationship with a California state senator to LA TACO's handling of the fallout, its ownership structure, and allegations of newsroom dysfunction. Bill also opens up about his own complicated history with editor-in-chief Javier Cabral, including a little-known story about how he landed the book deal for L.A. Mexicano.

Then, in a stunning late-night twist, Torres publishes his side of the story while Bill and Rob are recording, prompting an emergency addendum and a whole new set of questions about LA TACO's future.

Plus, the guys recap the LA Times 101 Best Restaurants celebration, the growing influence of Latino chefs on LA's dining scene, and some of the list's biggest surprises.

It's an unusually explosive episode of Taqueando, and nobody is holding back.

Los Angeles, we have a wet trompo problem. And Bill Esparza has had enough.

This week on Taqueando, Bill and Robert Haleblian get to the bottom of why so much of LA's beloved al pastor is drowning in adobo. From Angel's Tijuana Tacos to the legendary trompos of Mexico City, they break down what separates a truly great taco from a soggy imitation, why the traditional taco brigade matters, and where to find the best al pastor and adobada in Los Angeles.

But first, Bill has some words for Danny Trejo. Following news of the actor's involvement in a controversial film depicting an ICE agent, Bill reflects on his own history with the Hollywood icon, the disappointing tacos he once gave a pass, and why he's now calling for a boycott of Trejo's restaurants.

Plus, an unforgettable seafood takeover at Sāntō, a Holbox collaboration at Paseo, and plenty more from Bill's latest adventures across LA's dining scene.

On this episode:

• Why LA has a wet trompo problem

• Angel's Tijuana Tacos and the economics of street tacos

• The secrets of Mexico City's greatest al pastor

• Bill's favorite al pastor and adobada spots in LA

• Danny Trejo, ICE, and a Hollywood icon's controversial career decision

• Seafood, chef collaborations, and the latest Antojitos Rundown

This is Taqueando, where Mexican food, culture, and the people behind it always come first.

Part of the Acquired Taste Media network.

Taqueando has a new home! Search “Acquired Taste” on Spotify or Apple Podcasts and follow the feed for new episodes of Taqueando with Bill Esparza, alongside The LA Food Podcast and Compliments to the Chef.

This week: are Mexico City’s most viral tacos worth the hype? Bill and producer Robert Haleblian dig into Michelin-starred taquerías, La Once Mil, and the influencers steering tourists toward luxury tacos. What happens when premium ingredients get more attention than the traditions, family recipes and neighborhoods that make Mexican street food special?

Plus, Bill shares favorite Mexico City taco stops and reports back from LA’s Chef’s Conference.

Follow Acquired Taste now so you don’t miss what’s next.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

This week's Taqueando is available on the Acquired Taste podcast feed! Bill Esparza sits down with Heritage Barbecue's Danny Castillo to uncover California BBQ's Mexican roots, celebrate forgotten barbecue pioneers, and discuss the future of Heritage Barbecue in San Juan Capistrano. Plus, Bill shares his latest LA restaurant adventures and revisits the controversy surrounding Asadero Los Ángeles.

To hear the full episode, head to the Acquired Taste podcast feed and subscribe! That's where you'll find all new episodes of Taqueando, alongside more great food conversations from across Los Angeles.

Bill Esparza is back answering your questions, your DMs and, yes, your hate. Bill and Rob tackle the backlash over their LA mariscos guide, what makes great ceviche and aguachile, oyster red flags, King Taco’s place in taco truck history, the best pozole and chile en nogada in Los Angeles, Coyoacán recommendations and Bill’s perfect day of eating in LA.

Plus, the Antojitos Rundown covers Loreto, Broken Spanish Comedor, Holbox, Disciples of the Corn and Mariscos El Tambo.

Important: Taqueando is moving to the Acquired Taste feed. The transition will happen gradually throughout October, but all new Taqueando episodes will ultimately live on Acquired Taste. Follow or subscribe to the Acquired Taste feed now so you don’t miss an episode. This feed will remain available as the Taqueando archive.

Bill Esparza is joined by longtime food writer and Eater LA contributor Matt Kang to unpack the hype around Asadero, one of Los Angeles’ buzziest new taco stands. They debate whether it’s really Sonora-style, how LA diners and influencers can reshape a taqueria, why salsa and tortilla matter as much as the meat, and what separates a viral taco from a truly great one.

Plus, Bill and Matt get into LA’s carne asada evolution, the pressure to please customers, and whether Asadero can turn its early momentum into a more focused, lasting concept.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Alex Garcia of Evil Cooks to talk about the restaurant’s evolution from a backyard pop-up into one of Los Angeles’ most distinctive Mexican restaurants, and the return of Disciples of the Corn, an ambitious dinner celebrating the food of all 32 states of Mexico. Alex shares the story behind the event, the chaos of pulling it off, and this year’s lineup of chefs including Ray Garcia and Tomás Ortega, while opening up about his partnership with Elvia, his heavy-metal ethos and the life experiences that shaped Evil Cooks.

Plus, in this week’s Antojitos, Bill recaps a Los Angeles food crawl with Nithya Raman through Evil Cooks, Distrito Catorce and Casa Gish Bac; makes the case for where to find truly great caldo, pozole and menudo in LA; visits the Guatemalan night market; and breaks down the ultimate Hollywood Bowl food experience. Somehow, there’s also room for Sheila E., the Commodores, Kenny G., smooth jazz slander and some very strong opinions about aging rock stars.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

What happens when a former employee leaves one of LA’s most acclaimed restaurants and opens a place that looks… remarkably familiar? Bill Esparza and Robert Haleblian dig into Goldfish Seafood in Orange County, the restaurant they argue borrows heavily from Michelin-starred Holbox, from the menu and plating to the logo and overall aesthetic, and debate where inspiration ends and straight-up copying begins. Plus, Bill recaps Taqueando After Dark, one of the best fine-dining fish tacos he’s ever had, and a star-studded This Is About Humanity fundraiser.

Bill Esparza spent more than a year helping The New York Times build its list of the 41 greatest Mexican restaurants in America. This week, Rob flips the script and interviews Bill about how the list came together, why so many “best Mexican restaurant” lists get the country wrong, and what he found crisscrossing America in search of regional Mexican cooking, from al pastor in Charlotte and gorditas in Chicago to an unexpected Aguascalientes community in Oklahoma City. Plus, Bill breaks down why Mariscos Jalisco, Valle, Mercado La Paloma and other California standouts made the cut, what makes a restaurant “great” rather than simply famous, and why some of the most exciting Mexican food in America is happening far outside the cities people usually look.

Produced (and co-hosted!) by Robert Haleblian.

On Episode 69 of Taqueando, Bill Esparza returns from Barcelona with a challenge to the way Americans talk about Spanish food: Michelin-starred temples may dazzle, but they’re only part of the story, and the country’s simplest dishes lose something essential when removed from their context. He moves from a spectacular tasting menu at Esperit Roca in Girona to bocadillos, tortillas, croquetas, conservas, rice dishes, vermouth and the no-nonsense neighborhood bars most food tourists overlook, asking whether great food can ever be separated from the place and people that give it meaning.

Then Bill sits down with Coco Montes, chef of Michelin-starred PABÚ in Madrid, after watching him discover California’s extraordinary produce at the Santa Barbara farmers market. Montes brings French technique shaped by Alain Passard’s L’Arpège to a produce-first, microseasonal restaurant that changes its menu daily and is run alongside his mother, Rita González. It’s an episode about destination dining versus everyday eating, technical ambition versus simplicity, and what it really means to taste Spain.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

Buy your tickets to Taqueando After Dark

Chef Jonathan Zaragoza joins Bill Esparza to trace his journey from his family’s acclaimed Birrieria Zaragoza and Michelin-starred Chicago kitchens to Goatboy International, Salsa 101 and America’s Test Kitchen. They dig into the unwritten rules of Mexican salsa, salsa falsa, regional birria, fully loaded Ensenada fish tacos and Jonathan’s controversial belief that brioche buns don’t belong on burgers. Jonathan also shares why he spoke out against ICE, reflects on his family’s immigration story and previews his forthcoming cookbook and a possible return to Chicago restaurants, while Bill announces Taqueando After Dark at Level 8 in Downtown Los Angeles.Produced by Robert Haleblian

Los Angeles mayoral candidate and City Councilmember Nithya Raman joins Bill Esparza at Las Margaritas in Boyle Heights to explain how she would confront the crisis facing LA restaurants, street vendors and small businesses. Raman lays out plans to accelerate restaurant permitting, simplify outdoor dining and liquor approvals, protect immigrant communities during ICE raids, reduce homelessness and illegal dumping, preserve legacy restaurants, revive Hollywood production, and ensure the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics benefit local operators. Plus, she addresses the Lineage fire, housing affordability and City Hall accountability before sharing her favorite Los Angeles restaurants, including Saffy’s, Ruen Pair and Restaurante Tierra Caliente.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

Gabriela Cámara has brought the spirit of Mexico City’s legendary Contramar to the Las Vegas Strip. In this episode, Bill Esparza explores Cantina Contramar at Fontainebleau Las Vegas, the acclaimed chef and restaurateur’s first U.S. expansion of Contramar.

Bill examines how the new restaurant translates Contramar’s seafood-driven cooking and lively cantina energy for Las Vegas, from its iconic tuna tostada and pescado a la talla to fresh tortillas and dishes created specifically for the Strip. Does Cantina Contramar preserve what made the Roma Norte original a global dining destination, or has Las Vegas turned it into something entirely its own?

Plus, Bill announces Taqueando After Dark, a two-night taco pop-up happening August 27 and 28 at Level 8 inside the Moxy in Downtown Los Angeles. Expect taqueros from Baja California and Los Angeles, seven to eight taquerías, and one ticket to taste every taco.

Taqueando is hosted by James Beard Award-winning food writer Bill Esparza and explores Mexican food, tacos, restaurants and the people shaping how we eat across Los Angeles, Mexico and beyond.

Produced by Robert Haleblian. 

Before Mexico City became one of the world’s most celebrated dining destinations, Daniel Ovadia was helping create its modern culinary identity. He opened the groundbreaking restaurant Paxia at just 21 years old, serving ambitious Mexican tasting menus, artisanal mezcal and even an all-taco menu years before those ideas became fashionable.

Daniel joins Bill Esparza to revisit the early days of Paxia and Pujol, the resistance he faced serving tacos and pozole in a fine-dining restaurant, and why an entire generation of Mexican chefs developed such distinct culinary voices. He also explains why he eventually walked away from the awards-driven fine-dining world, why he believes social media has made restaurants more repetitive, and how he found a new purpose building Peltre in Mexico City and the Michelin-recognized Punta Corcho in Puerto Morelos.

Plus, Daniel shares his essential Mexico City markets and restaurants, the traditional techniques that shaped Paxia, and why Puerto Morelos remains one of the Mexican Caribbean’s best-kept culinary secrets. Bill also announces the return of his taco festival with Taqueando After Dark, coming to Level 8 in downtown Los Angeles on August 27 and 28.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

Where can you find the best ceviche, aguachile and Mexican seafood in Los Angeles? Bill Esparza drops his definitive LA mariscos guide, explaining why great seafood requires more than an overflowing aluminum tray, a backyard location or a pile of lime and salsa.

Bill breaks down the three pillars of Mexican mariscos: the barra fría, barra caliente and parrilla. He explains why Mexican ceviche is driven by pristine seafood and regional product, how it differs from Peru’s technique-focused tradition, and which warning signs reveal bad shrimp, careless knife work and past-its-prime callo de hacha.

The guide covers Muelle Ocho, Mariscos El Faro, Mariscos Chiltepin, Cahuamanta Lao, Coni’Seafood and the essential shrimp taco at Mariscos Jalisco, along with modern destinations including Holbox, Ceviche Project, San Damián and Loreto. Plus, Bill calls out influencer misconceptions, reveals where to find LA’s best aguachiles and pescado zarandeado, and explains the proper way to build, sauce and edge a tostada.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

Somebody Feed Phil host Phil Rosenthal joins Bill Esparza at Max & Helen’s, his Los Angeles diner created with Nancy Silverton, for a wide-ranging conversation about food, travel and the value of remaining curious. Phil reveals why Somebody Feed Phil is leaving Netflix for YouTube, calls out the negativity and rage bait driving food-influencer culture, and finally learns why filming pirated DVDs during their legendary Tepito taco crawl nearly got the entire crew kicked out.

Bill also asks the legendary comedy writer to judge his official Dos Equis “legend line”: “When there’s no line at Max & Helen’s, people wait eight hours just out of respect.” Plus, Phil and Bill debate whether LA pizza has caught up with New York, explain why Los Angeles has America’s best Mexican food, revisit cow-udder and beef-lung tacos, and discuss the restaurants Phil believes are defining the city’s food scene, from Pizzana and Pizzeria Sei to Courage Bagels and Max & Helen’s.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

In this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down at Michelin-starred Valle in Oceanside with Chef Roberto Alcocer, the Ensenada-born chef behind Valle and the beloved Baja restaurant Malva. Roberto reflects on his early days cooking in France, Puebla, and Pujol, the once-intimate rise of Valle de Guadalupe, and how Baja’s seafood, wine, and farm-to-table culture helped shape modern Mexican fine dining.

The conversation dives deep into the past, present, and future of Valle de Guadalupe, from the early days of Laja, Corazón de Tierra, Manzanilla, Malva, Vendimias, and true wine-country community to today’s challenges with overdevelopment, hotels, party tourism, rising prices, and the fight to protect the region’s identity. Roberto also discusses earning a Michelin star at Valle, why San Diego diners are still learning what Baja and contemporary Mexican cuisine can be, and why he believes Malva may soon return in a new form.

Plus, Roberto shares where to stay, eat, and drink right now in Valle de Guadalupe, with recommendations for Mira Earth Studios, Adobe Guadalupe, Envero, Lunario, Damiana, Animalón, La Opah del Güero, Escama, and more.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

At Alto in Studio City, chefs Juana Castellanos Lagemann and Esteban Klenzi are bringing the food and fire traditions of Argentina, Uruguay and the Río de la Plata to Los Angeles in a way the city has never experienced before. Bill Esparza joins the duo to discuss their journey from some of the world’s most demanding fine-dining kitchens to Ventura Boulevard, why asado should be cooked over glowing coals instead of open flames, and how they are elevating their culture without stripping away its soul.

They also explain why you should never order short rib medium rare, what makes a truly great empanada, how the parrillero’s relationship with fire differs from that of a typical grill cook, and where to eat in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. Plus, the chefs introduce Alto’s immersive Pampa Omakase, a communal feast inspired by the joyful, smoky ritual of a South American family asado.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

In Part 2 of Bill Esparza’s intimate conversation with chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid, the two dig deeper into Matriarca, her growing Mexican pantry brand built around clean ingredients, traditional cooking and the belief that Mexican families deserve beautiful, high-quality products rooted in their own culture.

Marcela breaks down Matriarca’s expanding lineup, from organic fideo, masa harina and salsa macha to heirloom beans, dried chiles and ingredients sourced directly from producers across Mexico. She also discusses making tortillas from scratch, the wellness industry’s failure to speak to Mexican women, the rising cost of dining in Valle de Guadalupe and why preserving language, recipes and culinary traditions still matters.

Plus, Marcela and Bill debate tamal versus tamale, share their favorite Chula Vista and Tijuana food memories and reflect on nearly two decades of friendship. Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian.

In Part 1 of a two-part conversation, chef, author and television personality Marcela Valladolid welcomes Bill Esparza into her Chula Vista home for an intimate look back at her journey from Tijuana’s culinary world to becoming one of the Food Network’s most recognizable Mexican chefs.

Over a pot of fideo seco, Marcela opens up about fighting for authentic Mexican representation on television, the pressure of being reduced to Cinco de Mayo segments and the lack of support she experienced as a working mother. She also reflects on leaving food television, rebuilding her career through wildly successful online cooking classes and creating Matriarca, her new Mexican pantry brand centered on clean, thoughtfully sourced versions of the foods she grew up eating.

This is only the beginning. Part 2 of Bill and Marcela’s conversation continues next week.

Taqueando is hosted by Bill Esparza and produced by Robert Haleblian.

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza takes on the messy new era of LA food influencers, anti-influencers, restaurant grifters, and the viral claim that “LA dining is a scam.” He breaks down the Christian Garcia/Hollywood Thai controversy, the rise of outrage-based restaurant content, and why struggling small restaurants are especially vulnerable when influencers promise exposure but may not deliver.

Bill is joined by Katie Molinaro of Eat It Katie for a sharp conversation about influencer backlash, Comfy with Kerry, performative restaurant criticism, and what happens when creators turn dining into a joyless hunt for bad bites. They also dig into Kerry’s viral Casa Vega review, why Bill sees Casa Vega as more than just an old-school celebrity hangout, and how Mexican American institutions carry history, nostalgia, and community meaning that can get flattened by click-driven content.

It’s a fiery, funny, deeply personal episode about LA restaurants, food media, cultural ignorance, affordability, and the difference between real criticism and content built for engagement. From Hollywood Thai to Casa Vega, from grifters to “LA dining is a scam,” Bill asks the bigger question: who actually benefits when restaurants become punching bags for the algorithm?

Produced by Robert Haleblian

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads back to Hermosillo, Sonora with chef, writer, and cookbook author Noah Galuten and Sonoran culinary investigator Eloy Alvarez Uribe for a deep dive into carne asada, grilling culture, and the food traditions of Northern Mexico. Noah discusses his new cookbook Grill Time, how a research trip to Sonora changed the way he thinks about carne asada, and why true Sonoran grilling is about much more than meat on fire. Eloy breaks down what makes Hermosillo’s carne asada culture so singular, from high-quality beef and flour tortillas to mesquite charcoal, chile colorado, refried beans, and the foodways shaped by life in the desert. Plus, the crew gets into Bahia de Kino seafood, bacanora, LA breakfast burritos, New York bagels, Mexican breakfast in Los Angeles, and why Sonora still doesn’t get the respect it deserves.

-

Presented by El Encanto Santa Barbara

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Jonatan Gómez Luna, the chef behind Le Chique, one of Mexico’s most ambitious and influential fine dining destinations. Recorded at Hotel Xcaret Arte in Playa del Carmen, this conversation explores the launch of Le Chique 2.0 — a bold, 27-course tasting menu that blends cutting-edge technique with deep Mexican tradition.

Jonatan shares his journey from Mexico City to working in some of the world’s most celebrated kitchens, including El Celler de Can Roca and Noma, and how those experiences shaped his approach to modern Mexican cuisine. The discussion dives into the evolution of Mexico’s culinary identity, why the country is now a global destination for chefs, and how technique should always serve one thing above all else: flavor.

They also unpack the philosophy behind Le Chique’s immersive dining experience, the balance between tradition and innovation, and why Mexico’s next generation of chefs may not need to leave the country to learn anymore. Plus, Jonatan shares his favorite local spots in Playa del Carmen — from street tacos to hidden ceviche stands you won’t find on any guide.

If you care about the future of Mexican food, tasting menus, or where global fine dining is headed next, this is a must-listen.

--

Presented by El Encanto Santa Barbara, your luxury hotel destination on the American Riviera.

Part 2 of Bill Esparza's interview with Andrew Zimmern. Zimmern goes deeper on the intersection of food, politics, and culture—and why what we eat is inseparable from how we treat people. From the role of restaurants in local economies to the human stories behind immigration, Zimmern shares a candid, unfiltered perspective on what’s happening right now in America and why the restaurant industry sits at the center of it all.

They also explore Zimmern’s work in food advocacy, global hunger, and sustainability—including his push for “blue foods” and why eating more responsibly sourced seafood can have a real impact on the planet. It’s a wide-ranging, thought-provoking conversation about food as both a unifier and a battleground.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

Presented by mva.wine.

Andrew Zimmern joins Bill Esparza on Taqueando for a wide-ranging conversation on food, culture, and the power of independent restaurants. From the early days of Bizarre Foods to groundbreaking trips through Baja California, Zimmern reflects on how places like Tijuana and Ensenada reshaped global perceptions of Mexican cuisine—and helped spark today’s gastrotourism boom.

The two dive into why Mexican and Chinese cuisines stand apart as the world’s deepest culinary traditions, the overlooked brilliance of street food, and how food storytelling can shift entire narratives around a region. Zimmern also shares candid thoughts on travel, authenticity, and why the best meals are often found far from the obvious spots.

As the conversation turns to today’s challenges, Zimmern makes a powerful case for supporting local economies—arguing that spending money at independent restaurants isn’t just enjoyable, it’s essential.

Part 1 of 2.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

Presented by mva.wine.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Rocío Moreno of Birrieria Nochistlán, one of Los Angeles’ most traditional and enduring Mexican restaurants, located in Boyle Heights. Together, they trace the restaurant’s roots back to Nochistlán, Zacatecas, where Rocío’s family has been preparing birria for generations—offering a rare, direct connection between a small Mexican town and the LA food scene.

The episode also follows their recent trip to Nochistlán, where they explore regional specialties like gorditas, tacos al pastor, tamales, and other local dishes rarely found in the United States, highlighting the depth and diversity of Zacatecan cuisine.

Back in Los Angeles, Rocío shares how her family built Birrieria Nochistlán from a backyard operation into a 26-year institution, why they’ve resisted expanding the menu, and what it means to preserve tradition in a constantly evolving food city.

The conversation also touches on legacy and loss, as Rocío reflects on taking over the restaurant after her father’s passing and carrying forward not just a recipe, but a family’s life work.

If you care about regional Mexican food, LA’s hidden gems, and the stories behind the city’s most meaningful restaurants, this is an episode you don’t want to miss.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads to Chileno Bay in Cabo San Lucas to sit down with Chef Yvan Mucharraz, the culinary force behind COMAL, YAYA, and TnT (Tacos and Tequila) at Chileno Bay Resort & Residences, Auberge Resorts Collection. Together, they unpack why Baja is quietly becoming one of the most important food regions in the world, from its unmatched seafood to its deep network of organic farms and local producers.

Chef Yvan shares the philosophy behind each concept—COMAL, the resort’s signature open-air restaurant showcasing innovative regional Mexican flavors; YAYA, a Mediterranean-Latin concept centered around live-fire cooking; and TnT, a casual beachside taqueria built on simplicity and fun. He also breaks down his Baja Lab series, which brings some of the world’s best chefs to Cabo for a “reverse stage” that’s transforming his kitchen from within.

Then, Bill is joined by Chef Val Cantu of Californios in San Francisco, the two-Michelin-star restaurant redefining Mexican fine dining in the United States. They dive into the evolution of tasting menu Mexican cuisine, the importance of masa, and why Mexican food is finally getting the recognition it deserves on the global stage.

From Baja to San Francisco, this episode explores where modern Mexican cuisine is headed next—and the chefs pushing it forward.

--

Presented by MVA.wine. Discover wines that rarely make it to the US, hand-selected and to an exclusive group of 600 members. First 20 Taqueando listeners to sign up fet $50 off their first selection by using code LAFOOD.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Jon Yao of Kato—the Michelin-starred, James Beard Award-winning restaurant redefining what Los Angeles cuisine can be. From his upbringing in the San Gabriel Valley to the philosophy behind Kato’s cooking, Jon shares how his food is less about invention and more about memory, identity, and place.

The conversation dives deep into the cultural fabric of LA, exploring how immigrant communities shape the city’s dining scene and why Kato could only exist here. Jon reflects on growing up surrounded by Taiwanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican food traditions—and how that environment informs a style of cooking rooted in storytelling, not trends.

They also get into the realities of fine dining today: the pressures of Michelin and World’s 50 Best, the challenge of staying grounded amid global recognition, and why Jon prioritizes internal standards over external validation. At Kato, luxury isn’t about spectacle—it’s about care, intention, and serving food at its absolute best.

Plus, Jon shares his go-to spots across the San Gabriel Valley and beyond, from beef noodle soup institutions to under-the-radar specialists, offering a masterclass in how to eat one of the most dynamic food regions in the country.

--

Presented by mva.wine. Become a part of this exclusive wine club (600 members only!) at mva.wine/subscribe - first 20 people to use code LAFOOD get $50 off their first collection.

This week on Taqueando, Bill sits down with Chef Manu Buffara, one of Latin America’s most influential chefs and the force behind Manu in Curitiba, Brazil — consistently ranked among the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

From her early days in journalism to training in Italy and staging at Noma, Manu shares how her global experiences shaped a deeply personal approach to cooking rooted in local ingredients, seasonality, and storytelling.

But this conversation goes far beyond the plate.

Manu breaks down:

• What “local” really means in Brazil — and why it’s about people, history, and economics, not just ingredients
• How working at Noma changed her philosophy on simplicity and product-driven cooking
• Why she moved away from cooking for awards and started cooking for herself
• The evolution of fine dining — and why toxic kitchen culture has no place in the future
• How she built a restaurant where staff actually have a life, with shorter hours and a healthier culture
• Her foundation work feeding communities and empowering women in Curitiba

Plus, Bill shares the story of dining at Manu during the pandemic — a deeply personal, unforgettable 11-course experience that captures what makes her restaurant so special.

This is a conversation about food, empathy, leadership, and the future of restaurants — and why Curitiba might be one of the most exciting food cities you’re not talking about.

Presented by mva.wine. First 20 people to subscribe using the code LAFOOD receive $50 off their first collection of this incredible wine.

In this Q&A episode of Taqueando, James Beard–winning journalist Bill Esparza and producer Rob Haleblian tackle listener questions about taco culture, Mexican food traditions, and the biggest controversy shaking the global dining world.

The episode opens with a deep dive into the Noma scandal involving chef René Redzepi, the protests surrounding the restaurant’s Los Angeles pop-up, and what the controversy reveals about power, labor, and leadership in fine dining.

Then the show shifts into listener questions covering everything from salsa pairings for tacos, the origins of LA’s taco truck culture (including King Taco), and how to recognize restaurants chasing Michelin stars.

Bill also shares his expert tips for finding incredible food when traveling, how to approach unfamiliar cuisines, and the cultural rules behind tortillas, tacos, and regional Mexican dishes.

Whether you're obsessed with tacos, curious about restaurant culture, or planning your next food trip, this episode is packed with insider knowledge from one of the world’s leading voices on Mexican cuisine.

--

Presented by MVA.wine - a wine collective that's disrupting the OG wine club model and bringing you rare wines from small producers that rarely make it to the US. First 20 people to subscribe using code "LAFOOD" receive their first collection for $50 off.

In this episode of Taqueando, James Beard–winning journalist Bill Esparza wraps up his three-part Mexico City series with a deep dive into the restaurants shaping the CDMX dining scene right now.

From iconic fine-dining institutions like Pujol, Quintonil, Rosetta, and Sud 777 to buzzy newcomers and chef-driven fondas, Bill breaks down where to eat in Mexico City and how to think about the city’s rapidly evolving culinary landscape. He also explores the tension between international restaurants and traditional Mexican cooking, and why travelers should still prioritize tacos, antojitos, and the street foods that define the city’s flavor.

Along the way, Bill shares practical travel tips: the best neighborhoods to stay in, how to navigate Mexico City’s massive geography, and why chasing influencer hotspots can mean missing the real food culture.

If you’re planning a trip to CDMX, or just want to understand one of the most exciting food cities in the world, this episode is your guide.

Restaurants discussed include Pujol, Quintonil, Rosetta, Sud 777, Máximo Bistrot, Carmela y Sal, Jacinta Comedor, Siembra Tortillería, Tikuchi, Expendio de Maíz Sin Nombre, and more.

--

In partnership with MVA.wine - a different kind of wine club offering you access to rare wines that usually never leave their country. First 20 people to sign up receive $50 off their first collection. Use code "LAFOOD" at check-out.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza heads back to Tijuana to talk with one of the most quietly influential chefs in modern Mexican cuisine: Chef Guillermo “Oso” Campos.

If you’ve eaten modern tacos anywhere in the last decade—from taco omakases to Baja-inspired tasting menus—you’re tasting the ripple effects of what Oso started on the streets of Tijuana with Tacos Kokopelli. In this conversation, Oso tells the story behind his journey from hitchhiking Mexico’s Pacific coast as a teenager to staging at a Michelin-starred restaurant in the Netherlands, and eventually launching one of the most creative taco stands in Mexico.

Bill and Oso dig into the philosophy behind modern tacos, the rise of Tijuana as one of Mexico’s most exciting food cities, and the decade-long run of Oso’s restaurant Tras Horizonte. They also talk about how street tacos became a canvas for culinary creativity and how Baja continues to shape the future of Mexican food.

Plus, Oso shares his favorite places to eat in Tijuana right now including the best birria, carne asada, tortas, ceviche, and tacos across the city.

Also in this episode: Bill shares an incredible backyard Argentine parrilla night featuring wines from MVA — a curated wine discovery platform sourcing small-production bottles from around the world.

👉 Listener offer: The first 20 people to sign up using code LAFOOD get $50 off their first collection.

Also, to learn more about El Encanto in Santa Barbara, click here.

If you care about tacos, Baja cuisine, or the future of Mexican food, this episode is essential listening.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza and Producer Rob kick things off with a raw, unfiltered conversation about Mexico, violence, and the uncomfortable hypocrisy behind how Americans talk about cartel chaos while fueling the very systems that sustain it.

From there, the mood shifts to Los Angeles food culture as Bill pulls back the curtain on The New York Times’ “25 Essential LA Dishes” list — what it gets right, what it reveals about the city, and why lists like this still matter.

Then, the main event: a deep dive into carne asada. Bill breaks down the origins, regional traditions, and craft behind one of Mexico’s most beloved culinary expressions, explaining why most LA versions miss the mark. From Sonora to Tijuana, Monterrey to Mexicali, this is a masterclass in steak, smoke, tortillas, and what truly makes carne asada culture exceptional.

If you love tacos, food history, or spirited debates about LA dining, this episode delivers heat.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

Powered by Acquired Taste

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza presents a special three-part episode unpacking Bad Bunny’s historic halftime show and its deeper cultural impact. In Part 1, Bill and producer Rob break down the performance, its symbolism, and why the show resonated so powerfully across Latino communities. Part 2 features Chef Odessa Rodriguez of Tainos LA, who explores Puerto Rican cuisine, kiosko culture, and how Bad Bunny’s moment is driving curiosity around the island’s food and identity. In Part 3, Patty Rodriguez joins the conversation to examine what this cultural milestone means for Los Angeles, representation, and Latino pride.

Food, music, culture, and identity collide in one of Taqueando’s most layered conversations yet.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

Powered by Acquired Taste

In Part Two of Taqueando’s three-part Mexico City (CDMX) series, James Beard-winning journalist Bill Esparza is joined live on mic for the first time by producer Robert Haleblian to go beyond tacos and into pura vitamina T: antojitos, street snacks, fondas, comedores, cantinas, tortas, and the dishes that define everyday eating in Ciudad de México.

Bill maps out a DIY walking tour you can actually follow, starting at Palacio de Bellas Artes and weaving through Mercado San Juan, El Moro, the Zócalo, and República de Cuba, with specific stops for tacos al pastor, tacos de canasta, tlacoyos, aguas frescas, pulque, suadero, quesadillas, and more. Then he breaks down how to eat like a local at a comida corrida (three-course market meal) and why Mexico City’s cantina culture — botanas that scale with your drinks — is one of the best values and most underrated food experiences anywhere.

Plus: Bill’s quick Antojitos rundown from Tijuana (birria, carne asada, and the details that separate a great taco from a weak one), and a teaser for Part Three, where he’ll get into where to stay and the “high-low” side of CDMX: fine dining, reservations, and the fancier hits.

In this episode, you’ll get:

• A step-by-step CDMX street food walking route (with landmark navigation)

• What to order at classic markets, fondas, and cantinas (and what to skip if you’re short on stomach space)

• The essential tortas of Mexico City: chilaquiles, tamal (guajolota), and the Cubana

• A cheat sheet for antojitos: quesadillas, sopes, huaraches, gorditas, flautas, and pambazos

SEO keywords: Mexico City food guide, CDMX street food, antojitos, cantinas, fondas, comida corrida, Mercado San Juan, Zócalo, tacos de canasta, suadero, torta de chilaquiles, guajolota, esquites, tlacoyos, pulque.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

Powered by Acquired Taste

This week on Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Ivan Ralston of Tuju — Brazil’s top restaurant and one of the most important dining rooms in South America. A two-Michelin-star, Green Star destination recently named Best Restaurant in Brazil by Latin America’s 50 Best, Tuju isn’t just redefining Brazilian fine dining — it’s rewriting how kitchens work.

Ivan traces his unlikely path from studying jazz bass at Berklee College of Music to leading one of South America’s most acclaimed restaurants, explaining why playing jazz on stage is more stressful than running a 10-course tasting menu. From Brazil-first ingredients (Bahia cacao, Amazonian duck, Brazilian truffles) to a seasonality system based on rain cycles — not European calendars — Tuju is deeply rooted in place.

The conversation also dives into São Paulo as a global immigrant city, why Brazilian cuisine can’t be reduced to churrasco, and how Ivan ditched the militarized brigade kitchen for a calm, humane, headset-driven system inspired by music and orchestration. Plus: Ivan’s essential São Paulo eating guide — from botecos and PFs to sushi, pizza, and modern Brazilian classics.

A must-listen for anyone obsessed with Brazilian food, South American fine dining, Michelin restaurants, Latin America’s 50 Best, chef culture, and the surprising overlap between jazz and hospitality.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

Powered by Acquired Taste

In this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Chef Byron Gomez, executive chef of Bruto in Denver, Colorado, the Michelin-starred restaurant redefining modern Costa Rican cuisine in America. Gomez, who made national waves on Top Chef and trained at some of the world’s most influential kitchens including Eleven Madison Park, shares his journey from Costa Rica to becoming the first Costa Rican chef to earn a Michelin star.

The conversation dives deep into Costa Rican food culture, from roadside sodas and pulperías to essential dishes like gallo pinto, chifrijo, chorreadas, and Costa Rican ceviche. Gomez explains how these humble traditions shaped his cooking philosophy and how he translates those flavors into Bruto’s wood-fire-driven, fermentation-forward tasting menu.

Bill and Byron also explore how immigration, DACA, and the restaurant industry intersect, with Gomez speaking candidly about how DACA shaped his career, his advocacy work, and why immigrant labor is foundational to American dining. The episode closes with a fascinating look at fermentation, sustainability, and terroir in Colorado, including house-made misos, garums, and ancient techniques adapted for the Rocky Mountain climate.

This is a must-listen conversation about identity, resilience, Costa Rican gastronomy, and the future of fine dining in America.

Produced by Robert Haleblian

Powered by Acquired Taste

On this episode of Taqueando with Bill Esparza, we head to Portland to sit down with Chef Angel Medina, co-owner of Republica Hospitality (Republica, Lillia Comedor, Komala) and one of the key architects of the city’s modern Mexican dining scene. Bill and Angel trace how Portland went from “Burrito-Gate” and appropriation headlines to a post-pandemic boom driven by Mexican chefs, indigenous cooking traditions, and a deeper, research-driven approach to cuisine.

Along the way they dig into burgeoning Mexican food culture in Portland, the role of immigration and travel, and what makes modern Mexican food different from nostalgia-driven Mexican-American menus. Angel also talks about the chefs he’s developing, the tasting menu evolution at Republica, and how he’s building platforms like Todos Media to document the culture.

The conversation then widens to the political and economic headwinds hitting hospitality — from Canadian tourism collapsing at the border to inflation, tariffs, ICE raids, and Trump-era policy shifts that have reshaped how independent restaurants operate. Bill and Angel discuss what this means for workers, for immigrant communities, and for the future of dining in cities like Portland, Minneapolis, Los Angeles, and beyond.

If you’re interested in Mexican cuisine, restaurant culture, immigration, food media, and the future of hospitality, this episode is a must-listen.

Keywords: Portland restaurants, modern Mexican cuisine, Republica Portland, Lillia Comedor, Komala Portland, Todos Media, Angel Medina, Bill Esparza, Mexican food podcast, hospitality crisis, immigration & food, Mexican chefs in the U.S., post-pandemic dining, Mexican food culture, Substack food writing

Now streaming on Taqueando.

Produced by Robert Haleblian.

Powered by Acquired Taste Media.

The taco hounds have been waiting for this one. On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza launches a 3-part Ultimate Mexico City Guide, starting with the food Mexico City does better than anywhere else: tacos.

Bill breaks down 11 essential taco styles in CDMX and tells you exactly where to find the best versions of each. Think pastor, suadero, carnitas, tripita, canasta, and more, plus key context on why these tacos matter and how they fit into the fabric of Mexican food culture.

If you are traveling to Mexico City, planning a street food crawl, or just want to understand tacos at a higher level, this is the guide to bookmark.

Parts 2 and 3 will cover fine dining and street food in the months ahead.

Powered by Acquired Taste.

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Edgar Núñez, chef-owner of Sud 777, for a wide-ranging conversation that moves from breaking food-culture controversy to one of the most thoughtful culinary careers in Mexico City.

The episode opens with a deep dive into the viral backlash sparked by a British baker’s comments dismissing Mexico’s “bread culture” and the beloved bolillo. Edgar unpacks why those remarks struck such a nerve, touching on culinary identity, cultural memory, gentrification, and who gets to define value in Mexican food. It is a candid, nuanced response from a chef who has spent his career navigating both global influence and local responsibility.

From there, Edgar traces his own trajectory from working at Noma to shaping the singular vision of Sud 777. He talks about how his cuisine has evolved, his philosophy around technique versus tradition, and why Mexican food does not need European validation to be great. The conversation also digs into influencers, social media, and the tension between visibility and substance in today’s dining culture.

To close, Edgar shares where he actually likes to eat in Mexico City, from everyday favorites to places that still excite him as a chef. Equal parts timely debate, personal journey, and essential listening for anyone thinking seriously about Mexican cuisine today.

Powered by Acquired Taste.

In this special Best of 2025 episode of Taqueando, host Bill Esparza looks back at the conversations that defined the year in LA food culture.

From interviews with chefs like Enrique Olvera, to cultural icons like Pepe Aguilar, to deep dives on taco crawls, Valle de Guadalupe wine, Panamanian cuisine, and the forces impacting restaurants and street vendors across Los Angeles, this episode captures the highs, the challenges, and the voices that shaped 2025.

The year wraps with reflections on the LA Times 101 Best Restaurants, including the unprecedented decision to name an entire mercado as the number one spot.

Whether you’re a longtime listener or new to the show, this is Taqueando at its most reflective, political, and hungry.

On this week’s episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Nayomie Mendoza, owner of Cuernavaca’s Grill, for a reflective year-end conversation. Together, they share their most memorable meals of 2025 while taking stock of a difficult year for restaurants shaped by wildfires, ICE raids, and ongoing instability across Los Angeles. It’s a thoughtful discussion about resilience, community, and what it meant to keep cooking, eating, and showing up in a year that tested the city’s food scene.

Powered by Acquired Taste

On this episode of Taqueando, Bill Esparza sits down with Kaila Yu for a deeply personal and wide-ranging conversation recorded over bowls of congee at her favorite San Gabriel Valley restaurant, Lu’s Garden.

Kaila Yu is a Los Angeles–based luxury travel and culture journalist whose work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times, New York Times, Rolling Stone, Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic, and more. She’s also an on-camera correspondent, certified PADI scuba diver, freediver, and mermaid. In this episode, Kaila and Bill talk food, identity, and the SGV as a cultural anchor, using the intimacy of a shared meal to explore topics from food to fetishization.

They also dive into Kaila’s powerful new book, Fetishized: A Reckoning with Yellow Fever, Feminism, and Beauty, a deeply personal memoir-in-essays examining Asian fetishization, feminism, beauty standards, and the ways media, pop culture, and colonialism have contributed to the oversexualization of Asian women. Drawing from her own experiences as a former pinup model and lead singer of Nylon Pink, Kaila reflects on reclaiming narrative, agency, and voice.

This episode of Taqueando blends food culture, journalism, and lived experience, offering a thoughtful conversation on representation, identity, and why the San Gabriel Valley remains one of the most important food regions in America.

Now streaming.

Powered by Acquired Taste.

This week on Taqueando with Bill Esparza, Bill sits down with LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison for a deep, reflective conversation on the brand-new 101 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles list.
They dive into how the 2025 list came together, what it says about LA dining during one of the toughest years the industry has faced, and why the city’s chefs, workers, and communities continue to show unmatched resilience.

From neighborhood gems to breakthrough tasting-menu projects, Bill and Bill talk through the themes shaping LA dining right now, the evolving role of food criticism, and what makes Los Angeles one of the most exciting and creative food cities in the world.

If you care about LA restaurants, food writing, culinary culture, or understanding how the 101 is made, this is a must-listen.

Powered by Acquired Taste Media.

Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America 2025 just dropped — and Bill Esparza sits down with Esquire Food & Drinks Editor Jeff Gordinier for a deep dive into the year’s most exciting openings, the big national trends, and why fun is the defining theme of 2025 dining.

In this episode of Taqueando with Bill Esparza, Bill and Jeff break down how the list came together, the philosophy behind spotlighting joy and playfulness in restaurants, and the surprising Los Angeles selections that made the cut. They get into the rise of vibey, unpretentious dining, why chefs are loosening up after years of austerity, and what it means for Mexican food, West Coast cooking, and the broader national scene.

Jeff shares behind the scenes insights from reporting the list, the dishes that genuinely moved him, and the restaurants pushing American dining forward.

If you care about restaurant culture, national trends, gastronomy, or how LA stacks up in the national conversation, this interview is essential listening.

Keywords: Best New Restaurants in America 2025, Esquire food list, Jeff Gordinier, Bill Esparza, Los Angeles restaurants, Mexican food, dining trends 2025, fun restaurants, Taqueando podcast, food journalism, restaurant list debate, LA dining.

In this episode of Taqueando, Bill sits down with Chef José Luis Hinostroza, the visionary chef behind ARCA in Tulum, to explore the side of Tulum that most travelers never see. After leaving Noma, Hinostroza moved to the Yucatán to immerse himself in its jungle, ingredients, and lesser-known Indigenous traditions — a region of Mexico with flavors, crops, and cooking techniques unlike anywhere else.

Bill and José dig into what makes the real Tulum so culturally and ecologically distinct, from its wild landscape to its atypical Indigenous foodways that don’t fit neatly into the clichés of “Mexican cuisine.” They unpack how ARCA was built around those traditions, why the restaurant intentionally steps outside corn-centric narratives, and how Hinostroza has forged a new style of fine dining that respects the land while pushing Mexican cooking into new territory.

The conversation spans José’s time at Noma, the early days of Tulum’s culinary evolution, the discipline of cooking in the jungle, and the importance of showcasing ingredients and stories long overlooked by mainstream food media.

If you care about Mexican gastronomy, regional identity, Indigenous foodways, or the ongoing reinvention of fine dining, this is an essential listen.

Keywords: ARCA Tulum, José Luis Hinostroza, real Tulum, Noma Mexico, Yucatán food, Indigenous traditions, jungle cooking, modern Mexican cuisine, Taqueando, Bill Esparza

On this episode of Taqueando with Bill Esparza, we dive deep into the rise of Sinaloan food and culture in Los Angeles and the Inland Empire. For decades, Sinaloenses have shaped the region through music, migration, and community — but only recently has LA begun to experience the true depth of Sinaloan regional cooking.

Bill shares his personal history performing concerts in Sinaloa with iconic artists like Marisela, and how he used to return to LA disappointed by the lack of authentic Sinaloan flavors. Today, that has completely changed. Thanks to increased access to world-class seafood and regional ingredients, a new generation of Sinaloan chefs and taqueros are redefining the city’s mariscos and taco scene.

We spotlight some of the most exciting voices pushing the movement forward, including José Morales of Tacos La Carreta, Chuy Patabionica, and Francisco Leal of Del Mar Ostionería. Bill also breaks down the unfair stereotypes that have long followed the region and explains why Sinaloenses have become one of the most influential culinary forces in Southern California.

If you love mariscos, regional Mexican cuisine, food culture, LA tacos, or the stories behind immigrant-driven food movements, this is an episode you don’t want to miss.

Powered by Acquired Taste Media.

On this special on-site episode of Taqueando with Bill Esparza, recorded live at the San Diego Food + Wine Festival, Bill sits down with some of the most influential chefs shaping modern Mexican and Baja cuisine. Featured guests include Chef Carlos Gaytán (Paseo, Valle, Txuco), Chef Rael Coronado (Una Más, Savage), Chef Juan Cabrera (Casa Tijuana, Fonda Fina), Chef Sabina Bandera (La Guerrerense), and Chef Diego Vargas (Asao).

Together they explore the deep culinary connection between Baja California and California, how the border inspires creativity, and the new generation of chefs redefining what Mexican food can be on both sides.

🎙️ Powered by Acquired Taste Media 👅

Keywords for SEO: Baja California food, Mexican chefs, San Diego Food and Wine Festival, Bill Esparza, Carlos Gaytán, Sabina Bandera, Tijuana restaurants, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja cuisine, California restaurants, Mexican gastronomy podcast

James Beard Award–winning chef, author, and TV host Rick Martínez joins Taqueando with Bill Esparza, powered by Acquired Taste, from his home in Mazatlán, Mexico to talk about his brand-new cookbook Salsa Daddy — a vibrant love letter to chiles, tomatoes, and the joy of making salsa. Rick and Bill dive deep into the regional nuances of Mexican salsas, the history and culture behind each ingredient, and how to master flavor balance like a pro. Plus, Rick shares his favorite spots to eat in Mazatlán and how living on the coast has shaped his cooking.

If you love Mexican food, travel, and stories that celebrate the people and places behind the country’s most iconic flavors, this one’s a must-listen.

Keywords: Rick Martínez, Salsa Daddy, Bill Esparza, Taqueando, Acquired Taste, Mazatlán restaurants, Mexican salsas, chiles, Mexican cookbooks, food podcast, James Beard Award, Mexican cuisine

Today on Taqueando with Bill Esparza, we’re joined by Tejal Rao and Ligaya Mishan, the chief food critics of The New York Times, for a deep, deliciously nerdy dive into the art of food writing and restaurant criticism.

Bill and his guests unpack how they approach reviewing restaurants, what makes great criticism endure, and why the critic’s role still matters in a world dominated by social media takes and influencer hype. It’s a thoughtful conversation about taste, language, and the evolving power of the written word in shaping how we eat and think about food.

Plus, Bill recaps a standout meal at Carmelita in Tijuana — one of Baja’s most compelling new restaurants redefining Mexican fine dining.

🎧 Taqueando with Bill Esparza — powered by Acquired Taste Media.