Celebrating the 300th episode of this podcast I look back at some of the amazing guests that I've had on this show from the world of UK fashion and textile manufacturing. Manufacturers that have shared their stories, their challenges, and their successes with us.

Episodes / Manufacturers featured in this episode:

Episode 102 - David Collinge | John Spencer Textiles

Episode 005 - Keith Hanshaw | The Leather Satchel Company

Episode 088 - Chris Woodford | Crown Northampton

Episode 193 - Ian Maclean | John Smedley MBE

Episode 55 - Lance Mitchell | Mitchell Interflex

Episode 113 - Ruth Masson | Harris Tweed

Episode 290 - Christopher Nieper | David Nieper OBE

Episode 96 - Richard Ince | Ince Umbrellas

Episode 004 - Jo Ashburner-Farr | Red Dragon Flagmakers

Episode 254 - Chris Childs | Contrado

Episode 21 - Jenny Holloway | Fashion Enter

Episode 31 - Mick Cheema | Basic Premier

Episode 299 - A visit to Vagabond bags with Simon Michelson

Episode 118 - David Williams | Stoll GB

Episode 203 - Saed Saleh | Mars Knitwear

Episode 060 - Diana Kakkar

Join me on a tour round a factory!

In this episode I'm chatting with Simon Michelson, owner of Vagabond Bags, a sewing factory in Swindon that makes cosmetic bags, shower caps and hot water bottle covers.

Meet some of the people working in the factory, hear about the jobs they do and find out how many shower hats one person can make in a day. Spoiler - it's quite a lot!

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Christopher Nieper OBE is the managing director of David Nieper, a womenswear business in Alfreton in Derbyshire. The firm was set up by Christopher's parents sixty years ago and is now one of the most vertical textile operations in the UK. Christopher recently invested in state-of-the-art digital printing equipment so that the factory can print it's own fabric onsite. David Nieper already prints all their own catalogues and produce their own knitwear in house, alongside the garment production.

In this episode you can hear about the research Christopher commissioned from Nottingham university looking at the greenhouse gas emissions produced to make clothing at the David Nieper factory in Derbyshire. The study then compared these findings to the emissions produced by making garments in China, Turkey and Bangladesh and then shipping them to the UK. It makes for very interesting insights into how making in the UK can be quantified as more sustainable. A big advocate for slow fashion, Christopher has also found that his customers keep and wear his clothes 10 times longer than average. Listen to this episode to discover: 

• How the David Nieper factory uses 'just-in-time' manufacturing to achieve a 98% sell-through on their garments
• Christopher's plans to make the David Nieper factory the greenest factory in Europe, recovering the heat generated by the factory to use as renewable energy
• How he's changing the attitudes of young people in his local town by giving them a taste of what it's like inside a real manufacturing environment
• The charity that the business has set up to help rebuild a local secondary school that was in the bottom 2% of schools in the UK and make it over-subscribed for the first time in 30 years
• Christopher's idea for a labelling scheme for clothing that ranks the environmental sustainability of every garment

This episode is the recording of a talk that Christopher did at Make it British Live! Online event in October 2020.

About David Nieper

Watch my Instagram reel showing behind the scenes at the David Nieper factory.

David Nieper website

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Join me on a trip to Leicester to meet Said Saleh and Keith Cummings from Mars Knitwear. Based in Wigston, Leicestershire, the chaps at Mars have been making knitwear for over 30 years.

Having been manufacturing thousands of pieces of acrylic knitwear for the big store groups, Mars has now gone back to creating smaller quantities of premium knitwear from British wool, lambswool and merino. They even now have their own brand.

Discover:

• 04:08 How Said got into the knitwear industry
• 07:37 Keith's own history within the knitwear industry and how he came to work with Said
• 10:20 Why Said decided that his factory would start making higher quality knitwear
• 14:25 How Mars Knitwear has been able to pivot their business to selling their own branded products online
• 18:11 How Mars decides on what their next products are going to be and how they keep an eye on trends
• 19:52 Keith and Said's thoughts on recycled yarns and natural fibres
• 22:25 Keith and Said's plans for the future of Mars Knitwear and their thought on the future of the UK knitwear industry
• 25:22 Why the biggest problem manufacturers face is getting skilled staff and why Keith and Said believe more young people should work in factories

More Mars Knitwear

Mars Knitwear on Instagram

Mars Knitwear Website

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Monika Young is the founder and creative director of Monika the Label - a sustainable fashion brand inspired by 70s California and made in the UK.

In this episode, Monika tells the story of how she set up and her brand, and what actions she took when she discovered her original designs and prints being copied by fast fashion online retailers. 

Discover:

• 04:12 How Monika's experience as a fashion buyer lead her to question the industry and pushed her to start her own clothing brand
• 11.21 How having supplier issues with her fabrics was actually a blessing in disguise
• 19.24 What slow fashion means to Monika
• 24.17 The reasons why Monika believes there are so many more benefits to UK manufacturing that offsets the additional cost
• 26.14 Why Monika makes sure she invests in the quality of her products
• 29:58 How Monika discovered her prints were being copied by large fashion brands
• 38:16 The amount of support Monika received through sharing her experience on social media
• 41.28 How Monika is dealing with the challenge of getting the copies taken down and how her brand has come out on top
• 45.13 Why Monika's opinion changes about whether consumers are more likely to purchase from brands with a purpose
• 50.00 The future plans for Monika the Label in order to work towards being more sustainable
• 52.11 How sticking to your values and staying true to yourself is Monika's one piece of advice to other brand owners

More Monika the Label

Monika the Label on Instagram

Monika the Label website

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What are some of the things that I see successful British-made brands do consistently?

In the first episode of series 4 of the Make it British podcast I look at what makes for a great British-made brand.

Discover: 

• 04:11 Why having a great story to tell can help customers relate to your business
• 06:17 How doing one thing brilliantly is better for building brand loyalty
• 08:40 Why developing close partnerships with your suppliers is so important
• 10:35 Why you should always put your customers first
• 11:47 Why you should pride quality over quantity when it comes to your products
• 13:09 How being driven by purpose, not profit is the right way go to attract the right customers
• 14:39 Why you will need to invest in your business no matter how amazing your product is

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The new series of the Make it British Podcast is coming very, very soon! Make sure you subscribe so you don't miss it. As well as the usual advice and tips for making in the UK, along with interviews with some of my favourite people that manufacture products in Britain, we are doing something a little bit different this series.

Listen in to this trailer to find out what it is!! About Kate Hills & Make it British

Kate Hills is on a one-woman mission to save UK manufacturing!

With a background in working for several large brands and retailers in design and buying roles, she gave up her corporate career to set up Make it British as a way of supporting UK manufacturers and those companies that wanted to make in the UK. 

Make it British acts as a platform to promote UK-made brands and manufacturers and aims to raise awareness of all of the fantastic manufacturing that still takes place in Britain.

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I've interviewed some fantastic guests over the past 3 series of the Make it British podcast. To celebrate the milestone which is 200 episodes, I'm bringing you a summary from 21 of the Make it British members that I have interviewed over the last few years.

All of them have built great UK-made businesses and have some great advice to impart!

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Starting any business can be tough - especially one that involves making products! Whether you are just about start a brand, or you've already launched and it's not quite going to plan, here are 11 tips that will help ensure success.

Discover:

• Why you should start with why [01:43]
• One of the first things you need to think about if you want to ensure your product sells [02:49]
• The reason you need to understand the numbers [05:56]
• What you need to prepare in order to reach out to manufacturers [07:11]
• Why you might need more than one manufacturer [08:25]
• How to avoid communication issues [09:41]
• The no.1 thing that new brands don't leave enough time for [12:05]

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Probably one of the questions that I get asked more than any other is 'how long will it take me to launch a new product if I make it in the UK?' The short answer is - 'how long is a piece of string!' 

The long answer is more complex, and involves taking into account several different variables. All of which I cover in this episode.

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London-based designer Maria Grachvogel is renowned for her clever use of cutting to flatter the female figure. In this interview, Maria talks about why she has chosen to use more UK manufacturers for her collection, and how changing her business model has helped her to build closer relationships with her clients. She also discusses the importance of quality, and how buying less, of better quality would solve many of the sustainability issues with clothing and fashion.

Discover:

• How Maria's childhood shaped her fashion career 02:02
• Maria's beliefs on producing garments that are designed to last 04:48
• How Maria is reshoring her production back to the UK 11:59
• The reason why Maria's clients prefer well-made products over fast fashion 22:09
• Maria's thoughts on how we can educate consumers and encourage them to buy quality garments 29:25
• What's next for Maria's brand in terms of sustainability and introducing new technology 37:25

More Maria Grachvogel

Maria Grachvogel on Instagram

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How do you follow up with a manufacturer (and have a better chance of a response)? In this episode I give you some great tips on how to make sure that you get a response back from a manufacturer ever time.

This episode will be particularly useful for anyone who wants to follow up with someone that they met at an event or trade show.

Discover:

• How to stay at the top of a manufacturer's mind 01:07
• What you should include in your email to a manufacturer 02:35
• Why it's worth meeting a manufacturer face-to-face! 05:40

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One of our epidode's from the very first series that is well worth a revisit is this one with Andy Ogden at English Fine Cottons. Greater Manchester was once known as cottonopolis because it was the home to the world’s cotton yarn and fabric production during the industrial revolution.

At the turn of the Twentieth Century, there were 9,000 people employed in the cotton industry in Ashton-under-Lyne, operating 2 million spindles.

But after years of decline, the last commercial cotton spinning mill in the UK closed.

Three years ago a company called Culimeta-Saveguard, who had been spinning technical fibres in Dunkenfield on the outskirts of Manchester decided to bring cotton spinning back to the UK.

English Fine Cottons now supplies well-known designer brands and high street retailers with cotton yarn that is used in bedding, shirts and outerwear.

I took a tour around the mill back in 2018 and chatted with Andy Ogden, General Manager of English Fine Cottons.

In this interview, you’ll hear all about how English Fine Cottons came about, and how they are closing one of the broken loops in the UK’s fragmented textile supply chain.

More about English Fine Cottons

My visit to Tower Mill when it was still a building site in 2016

Discover:

• The sounds of some of the advanced technology English Fine Cottons use to spin their yarn 02:34
• The story of how English Fine Cottons came about 04:31
• The challenges they met along the way in regards to the cotton industry 08:59
• How English Fine Cottons found and developed a partnership with their trusted cotton supplier 11:43
• The research that went behind sourcing spinning equipment for their factory 14:24
• The reason why machinery efficiency means the business can keep its labour costs lower 15:57
• Why English Fine Cottons also established themselves as a brand 22:17
• Why Andy believes there's been an improvement in the capability of the UK's supply chain 26:44
• How much the business invested into launching and why they decided to restore the original Tower Mill 30:46
• How English Fine Cottons sees there brand developing in the years to come 35:04

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In this episode of the Make it British podcast, Karen McCluckie, the director of Bealies Adaptive Wear, shares her inspiring journey of creating adaptive clothing for wheelchair users and disabled individuals.

Motivated by her son's disability and the lack of suitable clothing options in the market, Karen embarked on a mission to design stylish and functional joggers tailored to the needs of wheelchair users. From the initial idea to overcoming challenges and securing funding, Karen discusses the process of bringing her innovative designs to the market while juggling her role as a social worker.

With a commitment to UK manufacturing and a vision for expanding her product range, Karen's story highlights the power of innovation and determination in creating inclusive fashion solutions.

About Caron McCluckie

Caron on Linkedin

Bealies Adaptivewear Website

Unfortunately, mistakes can and do, happen in manufacturing, but there are ways to avoid them. In this episode, we look at the main reasons that manufacturing a product usually goes wrong, how to resolve the situation if it does and how to make sure that it doesn’t happen again.

Discover:

• What are the common problems that can happen when you're manufacturing a product 01:50
• The things you can do to try and fix any issues you may have encountered 06:28
• What you can do if you're not comfortable with talking directly to your manufacturer 09:28
• What to do if all else fails 10:17

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In this episode, I chat to Ian Maclean, managing director of John Smedley – the oldest operating factory in the world. John Smedley is one of the finest knitwear manufacturers in the world. The company was established 235 years ago, at the start of the Industrial Revolution, and they still operate out of the same factory in Matlock in Derbyshire.

In the interview, Ian talks about the challenges that come with operating out of such an old mill, and how he is making his manufacturing more sustainable by investing in upgrades to the mill which will save energy and allow the company to survive for another two hundred years.

 Discover:

• The history of the John Smedley factory 06:22
• How the company is bringing the factory into the 21st century 07:55
• Why sustainability is important for John Smedley going into the next 200 years 11:50
• The positive reaction John Smedley receives from their customers due to holding a Royal Warrant 13:35
• How Ian plans to increase the exposure of the John Smedley brand 14:41
• Why quality is such an important part of the John Smedley business model 16:12
• How many generations have looked after the business and the challenges they faced through the years 17:17
• Where Ian sees John Smedley heading in the next ten years and the challenges the business will need to face in order to grow 19:14

More about John Smedley

John Smedley Website

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I think visiting a factory is essential for anyone that is developing a new product. One of the benefits of making in the UK is that factory visiting is far easier than if you are making your products overseas. In this episode, I run through my 7 reasons why you should be visiting a factory – and hopefully, if you’re not doing so already, I will have convinced you by the end!

Discover:

• Why face-to-face communication is best when working with a UK manufacturer 01:21
• How you might discover your products aren't actually being made in the UK 02:16
• How you can become more familiar with the production process 04:00
• How you can strengthen your partnership with a UK manufacturer 05:17
• Why knowing how your products are made means you can sell better to your customers 06:14

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Make it British website

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Julie Deane CBE, set up the Cambridge Satchel Company in 2008 with £600 and went on to make it a global, multi-million-pound business.

But behind the success story, there was a lot of hard work, including having to set up her own factory in Leicestershire almost overnight.

In this interview, she tells the story behind the brand and talks about how the business has evolved over the last 12 years.

Discover:

• Why Julie ended up setting up her own factory and why she’d recommend that any other brand should do the same 03:21
• What advice she would give to someone setting up a British-made brand 14:18
• Why she decided to manufacture the bags in the UK 16:30
• How Julie holds a world record for listening to business pitches 21:29
• How investment changed the business 25:28
• The lessons Julie learnt on the way as the business began to grow 31:57
• The inspirations behind the other products in the Cambridge Satchel range 38:26
• What the future holds for Cambridge Satchel and why they are proud to wave the flag for UK manufacturing 46:59

More Cambridge Satchel Company 

About the Cambridge Satchel Company

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Some people think manufacturers should do any initial work for no charge in order to pitch for your business. But that’s often not the case.

In this episode, I explain why many UK manufacturers charge for sampling – and how that can be a good thing.

Discover:

• The incorrect assumptions people may have about why UK manufacturers don't sample for free 01:02
• Why being charged for samples upfront means a manufacturer is going to be more honest about their pricing 02:39
• Why manufacturers charge for samples so they don't get caught out being used as a 'sampling house' 06:41
• Why it's worth investing to develop a strong relationship with a UK manufacturer 08:16

Stay in Touch

British Brand Accelerator - Find out how you can work with me to build your British-made brand

Make it British website

Join Make it British - become a member of our community and promote your business in our directory or UK-made brands and manufacturers

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Labour Behind the Label is a workers rights organisation that fights for living wages for garment workers. They have produced a report about the unethical working practices of factories in Leicester making for Boohoo. The industry has often called into question how Boohoo can sell dresses for £4 and still make them ethically in the UK, and this report by Labour Behind the Label makes for distressing reading. Talking of staff made to work in factories making Boohoo clothes whilst suffering from Covid 19. Dominique Muller is the policy director at Labour Behind the Label, and in this episode, she talks about what needs to be done to ensure workers in Leicester are treated fairly and paid a living wage. 

Discover:

• Who Labour Behind the Label are and how the organisation came about 04:27
• Why the organisation is focusing on the UK garment industry in particular 06:05
• The reasons why Boohoo has been singled out in the report written by Labour Behind the Label 08:57
• What local councils and other authorities can do to stop unethical factories 11:45
• The worst discoveries that Labour Behind the Labour made when they looked into how garment workers were treated during the pandemic 15:26
• Dominque's thoughts on how the good manufacturers in Leicester would benefit from brands returning to the city 17:47
• The work Labour Behind the Label does to educate brands and retailers on how to make sure their production is ethical 20:15
• What distinguishes a brand or retailer that is ethical to its workers 23:33
• What the consumer can do to make sure they aren't funding unethical practices and companies 26:42
• Why brands should be more transparent about where their products are made 29:21
• What the government could be doing better in terms of positive changes being made in the fashion industry 32:16
• How people can support Labour Behind the Label 40:24

About Labour Behind the Label

About Labour behind the Label

Boohoo & Covid 19 – The people behind the profits

Clean Clothes Campaign – improving working conditions in the global garment industry

Fashion Checker – find out if the brands you buy from are paying their factory workers a living wage

Why we need transparent supply chains

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In this episode, I look back over the first 100 episodes of this show to find out what makes British-made businesses great. There are many common themes running through the last 100 episodes and that I’ve heard again and again from those I’ve interviewed.

Here are the 10 things that make British-made businesses great:

UK manufacturers are partners to the businesses they make for Katya Wildman (Ep 10), Sian Reekie (23), Tom Glover (72)

Transparency is integral to their supply chain Jenny Holloway (21), Adam Robertson (51), Sophie Slater (94)

Sustainability is at the forefront of everything they do Ian Maclean (14), Mick Cheema (31)

They are finding different ways to reach the customer James Eden (2)

Many of them are family businesses Edward Sexton (12), Martin Lowe (47), Peter Phillips (54), Lance Mitchell (55), Chris Woodford (88)

Authenticity is important to them Simon Middleton (074)

Craftsmanship is worth preserving Keith Hanshaw (6), Genevieve Sweeney (39), Kate Dawson (64), Jenny Holloway (21), Barbara Burton (70)

Quality is at their core Andy Ogden (33), Tony Kelly (77), Joel Chudleigh (82), Richard Ince (96), Elaine Stewart (92)

It’s not about the money Hebtroco (68), Heraldic Pottery (84)

They wouldn’t manufacture anywhere else! Katherine Hooker (35), Tori Murphy (61)

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Today I’m chatting to Lindsey James, who is the founder of womenswear brand Violet Flamingo.

Lindsey was making and selling bespoke clothing for her clients from her studio before covid hit. Finding herself with no way to reach customers during lockdown, she started to do regular Facebook live calls from her studio, talking to her customers just as she would do if they were visiting her in person.

She soon found that the calls were a great way for her to continue serving her customers during lockdown. 

Lindsey has some great tips for anyone that says they don’t do live video!

Discover:

• The inspiration behind the Violet Flamingo brand 02:18
• Why Lindsey created a Facebook group for fans of Violet Flamingo 10:44
• How Lindsey uses live video to talk to her customers about the making of her clothing 13:22
• The reason why Lindsey offers a more personalised service for her customers 15:03
• How Lindsey has introduced ready to wear pieces within her bespoke collection 16:37
• Why Lindsey is now working with a UK manufacturer 18:35
• The inspiration behind the garments Lindsey designs 24:26
• The tips Lindsey gives for those who may want to give live video a try 35:53

More Lindsey James & Violet Flamingo

Violet Flamingo website

Violet Flamingo Facebook

VF VIP Group on Facebook

Violet Flamingo Instagram

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Make it British website

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Make it British on Instagram

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Just a quick one today, to say that I'm taking a break from recording new episodes after next week.

In the meantime, I have selected 10 of the best episodes from the archive for your enjoyment, which will be episodes no.s 188 - 197

I'll be back on 20th August (not 13th as I said on the audio!) with a brand new solo episode no.198

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Rita Britton is somewhat of a fashion legend. 

For 50 years she ran an independent fashion store in Barnsley, Yorkshire called Polyanna, which was an International hub for luxury fashion stocked with Rita's unique style.

When Polyanna closed in 2014, Rita focused on developing her own brand, Nomad, made in the UK with fabrics sourced from Yorkshire mills such as Abraham Moon and Joshua Ellis.

Rita has a very loyal customer base, and she knows a thing or two about retail and fashion. So it was fascinating to hear her thoughts on manufacturing in the UK as part of a panel discussion we held at the Make it British virtual event in 2020.

I’ve picked out some of Rita’s best bits for you to listen to here on the podcast, including her thoughts on educating people to buy better and buy less, why there has never been a better time to bring manufacturing back home, and how the UK makes some of the best textiles in the world, yet we are encouraging young people to work in nail bars and do eyebrows rather than work someone and make clothes!

Literally, every line Rita comes up with is a gem - there are some real pearls of wisdom in here, which are great to hear from someone that has been in the fashion industry for as long as Rita has.

Discover:

• The companies Rita has founded and her mission to reduce waste in the fashion industry 04:17
• Rita's thoughts on how waste could be reduced at the retail and consumer end of the fashion supply chain 06:46
• What Rita's thoughts on young customers and their care for the planet compared to the older generation 08:53
• How Rita believes the fashion industry is totally sales driven and how she's trying to do things differently at Nomad 12:28

More Rita Britton & Nomad Atelier

Nomad Atelier Instagram

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Make it British on Instagram

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This week I’ve been in the Midlands visiting factories, which is always one of my favourite things to do.

I’d planned to take my podcast mic with me and get an episode to you today with an interview with one of the manufacturers, but sadly I was in such a rush when I set off early Sunday morning that I left my mic behind!

So on today’s episode instead I'm discussing one of the amazing factories I went to see, and also sharing a recording from the archives - which is to encourage you to get out there and visit factories yourself!

If you want to develop a range of products but have little manufacturing experience you might be thinking of employing the services of a production consultant.In this episode, we’re going to look out what services a production consultant might offer, and why you might not want to use one if you want to manufacture in the UK.I’ve also got advice on how to choose a production consultant if you decide to go down that route, and what the alternatives are if you don’t want to use a third party to manage your production.

Discover:

• What is a production consultant? 02:13
• What services would a production consultant offer? 03:10
• When would you need someone to manage your production? 04:08
• Why you probably shouldn’t use a production consultant if you are making in the UK 06:01
• Questions to ask when looking for someone to manage your production 09:24
• What are your alternatives if you don’t want to use a production consultant? 16:07

Related Episodes

Episode 158 - What is a critical path and why do you need one?

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Brant Richards is one of the founders of HebTroCo.

5 years ago, he and his business partner Ed had an idea in the pub - to start making trousers in Hebden Bridge, a town in Yorkshire that was once renowned for its trouser making.They launched the business on Kickstarter, knowing nothing about making trousers, and within five hours of switching on their crowd-funding campaign they had sold their first 176 pairs. So Brant and Ed quit their jobs and went on a journey that has seen them turnover more than a million pounds.

Since their initial launch they’ve added jeans, shirts, socks and the now pretty much infamous action blanket.

Discover: 

• Why making trousers isn't rocket science 06:20
• How HebTroCo invest in advertising to grow their mailing list and increase sales 20:38
• How much it really costs to make jeans in the UK 24:37
• How Brant and Ed met 27:06
• The success of their Kickstarter campaign when they sold 176 pairs in 5 hours 30:50
• The marketing tip that Brant has for other brands 31:40
• How HebTroCo work with their factories 40:04
• The products that HebTroCo are launching next 41:52

More HebTroCo

HebTroCo Website

HebTroCo Instagram

Episode 068 - HebTroCo How to make a million in Brexit Britain - HebTroCo - Make it British Live! 2019

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Do you want a manufacturer in the UK? On today's episode I discuss the reasons why searching in Google for a manufacturer to make your products could be a very costly mistake to make.

Discover:

• What can happen if you select a manufacturer using a Google search 1:29
• Examples of what you really find on page one of Google when you type in 'UK clothing manufacturer' 5:22
• The misleading phrases that companies use that can make you think their factory is in the UK 7:28
• Some tips for how to find out if they really are genuine UK manufacturer 8:30

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Johnstons of Elgin is the largest textile manufacturer in the UK. The 223-year-old company employs over 1,000 people and was the first to bring cashmere weaving to Scotland.

Simon Cotton, the chief executive of Johnstons, describes himself as working for the most exciting company in the UK. Listen to find out how he plans to make the company last long into their next 200 years. Discover:

• How Johnstons aim to bring new generations into the business [11:12]
• How the business has had to adapt to the Covid situation [14:38]
• Johnstons need to focus on high-value products whilst also staying current [18:37]
• Celebrating 120+ years of supplying Burberry [25:31]
• How the business is making its products more sustainable [26:58]
• Where Simon sees the business heading into the next 200 years [29:53]

More Johnstons of Elgin

Johnstons of Elgin website

Johnstons of Elgin Instagram

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This episode is a lesson to anyone that wants to make in the UK but is struggling to make their pricing work.YES, it is possible to have a thriving and sustainable brand that is made in the UK and be profitable.

You just need to change the way you look at things.

Discover: 

• Why trying to find a cheaper manufacturer is not the solution 02:05
• Why pricing for small product-based businesses is different to the big retailers 04:53
• The benefits of making in the UK vs overseas 06:33

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Rebecca Mills has a background in buying and retail for some big-name brands, yet when it came to running her own business she found it very different.

In this episode, she talks about how different it is running her own brand and some of the common mistakes that it is easy to make when you love designing products! Discover:

• The challenges of developing a product for your own brand versus doing it for a big, corporate company 08:16
• How to value engineer a product to make your prices work 08:54
• Why Rebecca decided to make in the UK 11:29
• Why Rebecca is using the words 'responsible' and 'transparent' rather than sustainable 13:20
• The benefits of having a bricks and mortar store to gain valuable customer feedback 16:39
• How working with Kate in her coaching programme has helped Rebecca to get clarity on her product range 20:30
• How Rebecca has gained confidence in her brand message and being able to focus more on how she spends her time 23:26
• Rebecca's advice for selling on marketplaces and how she's made it work for her business 31:04

More Rebecca J Mills

Rebecca J Mills website

Rebecca J Mills Instagram

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I get contacted all the time by people looking for ‘more affordable’ UK manufacturers. They’re not making any money in their business and they believe it’s all the manufacturer’s fault because their prices are too high.

But when I dig a little deeper, often I find that there are other parts of the business that need to be addressed first in order for them to make any money. So before you decide to jump ship from your current manufacturer, let’s ask a few questions and see what else might need to be changed first... Apply for my live private training “The 3-part framework for developing profitable UK-made products with ease” - katehills.co.uk/framework

Discover:

• Why you should look at 6 other aspects of your business before you decide to look for a cheaper manufacturer 02:15
• One of the main things that product-based businesses spend too much money on 04:20
• Why you should be tracking the numbers in your business 05:38
• The big mindset issue that can hold a lot of small businesses back 06:38

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Debbie McKeegan has over 30 years experience in textile printing - specifically digital printing. She is the founder of TexIntel, a platform that provides fantastic knowledge and advice to the digital print industry and also the host of the Texintel podcast.

In this episode Debbie answers all your burning questions about digital printing.

So if you find fabric printing, particularly digital fabric printing, confusing and frustrating, this episode will help to address many of your questions.

Discover:

• Debbie's background in printed textiles and how she developed her love for production 02:11
• The reasons why Debbie set up Texintel 08:02
• Where designers should begin in terms of understanding the jargon and technicality of digital textile printing 10:36
• The challenges that a designer may face when looking to print their designs via digital textile printing and the tips Debbie offers to combat them 13:14
• The reasons why Debbie thinks digital printing will replace traditional types of printing over the next 5 to 10 years 21:06
• The innovative technology behind digital textile printing and what the future holds for the industry 27:21
• Why Debbie is passionate about the possibilities print offers to new designers and small brands 32:47
• Why Debbie thinks that clients are asking the wrong question in terms of digital printing costs 38:07
• Why digital printers can't get their hands on sustainable fabrics and why Debbie thinks there should be regulations in the industry 41:52
• The advantages of setting up your own 'micro factory' to print your products 47:14
• Why print will always have a place in Debbie's life 51:08
• The many heroes in the textile industry who Debbie looks up to 53:05

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There are really four different scenarios in which it's probably better to manufacture overseas than in the UK.In this episode, I run through what those four different cases are. Discover: 

• How the amount of time that it takes to make something can play a big part in deciding whether it should be made here 01:41
• Which skills we have very little of in the UK when it comes to making fashion and accessories 04:16
• Why it's difficult to find blank white T-Shirts made in the UK 07:28
• Why factories that make childrenswear in the UK are few and far between 08:34

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James Stewart is an experienced lean practitioner who has worked with Burberry and Fashion Enter to help streamline their manufacturing process.

‘Lean’ is a method for producing products in smaller batches, closer to the customer, rather than making zillions of products overseas that no one wants to buy.

Anyone that manufactures sustainably and locally in the UK, is in fact using some lean principles in their business, even if they aren’t aware that they are.

In this episode James discusses the benefits of lean manufacturing, and how it can give UK manufacturers an advantage.

Book mentioned in this episode: The Lean Turnaround

James Stewart Linkedin

Discover: 

• How James worked with Burberry to introduce Lean principles 05:11
• What Lean is and how companies can use it to make their business better for people and planet 06:54
• How Burberry cut its lead-times down by 90% in it's UK factory 11:05
• Why Inditex (owners of Zara) manufacture so much locally 16:22
• Advice James would give to any company for how they can use lean principles in their business to make a rapid change 27:21

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Today's episode is all about selling and sales, and how it's closely linked to product development.

A lot of creative business owners say that they aren't any good at selling, so the natural tendency is to drop their prices or default back to making more products.

I'm going to give you a different way of looking at sales, so that selling doesn't make you feel like a used car salesman.

If your products aren’t selling - don’t get disheartened! There can be many reasons why products don’t sell, but there are also lots of things you can do to make sure they have the best chance of success.

So before you think about slashing your prices, take a listen to this episode.

Discover:

• The things you can do before you start to develop a product to make sure it has the best chance of selling 01:20
• How to know if your products are actually being seen by enough people that might want to buy them 07:16
• Why images of your products are important 08:27
• Why you should be speaking to the people that aren't buying your stuff 10:12
• Should you lower your prices? 10:47

Book mentioned in this episode: The Lean Start Up

Related Episodes

Ep152 - Are you charging enough for your UK-made products?

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In an industry that is dominated by big brands, how can you stand out from the crowd and launch something new?

In this episode, I chat to Hannah Lovegrove, co-founder of Lovegrove essentials, about what it takes to launch an organics skincare brand that is made in the UK.

Hannah started her award-winning business in 2015 with her daughter Hayley. She has some great advice for how she has achieved such success by putting the customer first and ensuring the highest standards in everything that the company does.

Discover: 

• How Hannah, with her daughter Hayley, began Lovegrove Essentials through their combined experience in the beauty and wellbeing industries 02:02
• Why Lovegrove prefer to manufacture their products themselves and how they launched with just 5 key products 04:31
• How understanding their audience helped Lovegrove to promote and sell their products 07:55
• The high standards that Lovegrove Essentials maintain to ensure accreditation on their products 10:33
• The challenges of starting a beauty brand 13:56
• How Brexit and Covid caused supply chain issues and meant that Lovegrove had to take a pause on distribution 14:56
• The expansion of the Lovegrove Essentials team from the original mother and daughter founders 17:57
• What Hannah would have done differently if she was launching the brand again 19:29
• The one big tip Hannah has for anyone looking to set up their own beauty and wellness brand 26:12

More about Lovegrove Essentials

Lovegrove Essentials website

Follow Lovegrove Essentials on Instagram, Twitter & Facebook

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What are some of the pros and cons of selling your products on an online marketplace?And how do you know which ones you should be on?

Along with the well-established online marketplaces such as Etsy and Not on the High Street, there are lots of new ones springing up.

Many of these specialise in certain niches, including a few newcomers who sell only UK-made goods. Discover: 

• What is an online marketplace? 01:49
• Why would you consider selling on an online marketplace? 02:41
• The drawbacks to joining a well-known and global marketplace 05:19
• The essential questions you need to ask any marketplace that you join 07:18
• Why a new marketplace charging a low commission may not be the ideal one to sell on 08:04

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Rich and Linda make stunning, digitally printed swimwear under the label Usual Objections. They manufacture all of their products from a micro-factory in their family home in Hackney, which they also share with 2 children and a blind pug!

In this episode, they tell me about what made them decide to manufacture everything themselves, having tried doing so with several UK manufacturers first, and what lessons they’ve learnt along the way. It’s great advice for anyone who's thinking of launching a brand or setting up their own micro-manufacturing unit.

Discover:

• Linda and Richard's backgrounds and how they ended up starting a swimwear brand 03:03
• How they spent £1,000s on sampling products that weren't right 06:55
• How they bought their first machine and it all grew from there 07:54
• How long it took them to launch the business 09:53
• How they sourced their fabric 10:43
• How they've funded the business 14:32
• The balance of their time that they spend designing and manufacturing, versus selling and marketing, and why they may have got it wrong 20:56

Stay in Touch

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When it comes to working out your selling prices, one of the biggest mistakes people make is getting their margin and mark-up all mixed up!

It’s easily done as the two words are pretty similar. But it can be a costly mistake to make if you get it wrong.

In this episode, I explain what the difference is between a margin and a mark-up, and what percentages you should be aiming for depending on how you are selling your products. Discover:

• How to do the maths to work out your mark-up 00:48
• How to calculate a margin 03:09
• What mark-up should you be aiming for? 04:56
• What your mark-up needs to cover 05:33
• Typical margins that big retailers might work towards 07:37

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On today’s episode, we’re being joined by make-up artist Phyllis Cohen, who is also the founder of a business called Face Lace.

Phyllis started her career as a make-up artist in the ‘80s during the New Romantic era when her illustrative make-up appeared in magazines such as i-D.

She’s also worked her make-up magic on everyone from David Bowie and Lady Gaga to Zandra Rhodes.

Phyllis is a great example of someone who had an idea for a product that no one had ever made before, and through sheer determination and meeting the right UK manufacturer at the right time she was able to get her idea to market.

Her Face Lace is something to behold. If you have not come across Face Lace before, they are elaborate makeup designs that can be applied in a few seconds, look precise, symmetrical and stay perfect until they came off. The original designs looked like lace had been drawn onto the face, hence the name, but other pieces within the collection are encrusted with crystals, pearls and holographic materials.

Of course, with every novel new product, there always follows the copycats. And Phyllis tells of the trouble she has had with counterfeits of her designs appearing which she has had to overcome.

You can see some of Phyllis iconic work as a make-up artist here:

Phyllis Cohen Make-up Archives

Discover:

• How Phyllis went from being an illustrator to a celebrity make-up artist 02:50
• How Phyllis came up with the idea for her innovative Face Lace product 12:41
• How she first developed the product that later became Face Lace 22:04
• The challenges of finding the right materials and how she overcame them 22:47
• How she found her first manufacturer 23:44
• Why she goes to visit her UK manufacturers regularly 29:26
• How Face Lace was worn by Lady Gaga at the SuperBowl 32:18
• How Face Lace has been copied and how Phyllis has copyrighted her designs 37:40
• The advice she would give to someone else developing a new, innovative product 42:50

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There are a lot of different costs involved in launching a brand. But in this episode, I break it down into four main segments: prototyping; stock; marketing and admin.

I also advise on what the typical amount is that new businesses spend in getting their brand off the ground, and smart ways that you can reduce those costs.

Discover:

• The new ‘Made in UK’ Award introduced by The Great British Entrepreneur Awards for 2021 in partnership with Make it British 01:14
• The costs you need to account for before you put your products into production 02:49
• An idea on costs you might be charged for sampling 04:27
• Why you shouldn’t invest all of your money in stock 06:37
• The one thing that every new brand forgets to save enough money for 09:05
• The boring but important stuff you may not have thought about 13:44
• How to stop your costs from spiralling out of control 13:59

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Rowena Howie’s Revival Retro store in central London is a destination shop for fans of her flattering dresses and stylish accessories.

In this episode we chat about how Rowena has pivoted her business to online whilst the shop has been closed; how the government could help independent retailers; and how she puts the customer at the heart of everything she does.

She’s also got some great advice for any small business that is thinking of working with influencers.

Revival Retro website

Discover:

• About Rowena's background and why she set up Revival Retro 02:09
• How Revival Retro started as a pop-up shop 06:38
• Why she also decided to launch her own UK-made brand to stock in the shop 09:27
• How Revival Retro has developed the business around customer demand 10:41
• How she has overcome the challenges of Covid on her retail business 13:36
• What can Government do to help support small independent retailers? 15:15
• Adapting a brick and mortar store to online 21:07
• How she has used social media to engage with her customers 23:49
• How she has translated the personal touch that Revival Retro has in store to the online offer 27:30
• Working with influencers to grow the business 31:24
• Advice for other brands wanting to offer an in-person sales experience 33:53

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Choosing a manufacturer is one of the most important decisions you can make in the development of your products, so it’s important to find the right one.

When you are assessing whether a manufacturer is a good fit for you there are certain questions that you should ask them. Some of these questions you may want to ask over the phone initially, in order to narrow down your choice, but others, such as those about price, are best approached in a face to face situation. 

In this episode, I cover some of the key questions you should ask a manufacturer to get to know them better.

Discover:

• Why it's important to see the factory floor 03:18
• What you can benefit from seeing a manufacturer face to face 04:40
• What audits you might expect them to have and why they may not have any 05:48
• Why it's important to know who else they manufacture for 06:56
• Why you may not want to ask them to sign an NDA 07:53
• The all-important payment question 11:04
• Why UK manufacturers are likely to charge for samples 16:14

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Today I’m chatting to UK garment manufacturer Jenny Holloway who I first featured on this show on episode 21 back in January 2019.

Jenny runs Fashion Enter, a social enterprise that makes 1,000s of garments every week in their North London factory. 

Fashion Enter also runs a training academy teaching people the essential skills needed to work in fashion production and recently set up another factory in Wales which employs over 70 people.

In this episode, we catch up on what Jenny has been up to in the last two years, including making PPE and developing a totally reusable isolation gown. 

 Jenny offers great insight into how she sees the relationship between the big retailers and UK manufacturers developing, and what the future holds for garment manufacturers as they turn into smart factories making on-demand and one-of-a-kind pieces.

Episode 21 featuring Jenny Holloway

Discover:

• How Fashion Enter rose to the challenge to supply PPE to the NHS 03:13
• Making a reusable gown that can be washed over 70 times 06:03
• How Fashion Enter pivoted during the pandemic 09:30
• How Jenny has built relationships with the online retailers 10:32
• How she has diversified the business to not be so reliant on just one type of customer 13:26
• Opening a new sewing factory in Wales 17:26
• Lessons learnt from setting up their own brand 'B of London' 22:48
• Opening up a retail space for designers 28:24
• How Jenny is helping to clean up garment manufacturing in Leicester 31:27
• Jenny's thoughts on the future of garment manufacturing and how technology will play its part 42:35

More about Fashion Enter

fashionenter.com

The FC Fashion Collective

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Hear from 21 business founders as they give their tips on starting and growing a British-made brand.

These snippets were taken from 21 different guest interviews on this podcast.

If you want to listen to the full episodes you can find them as follows:

Ep.142 Julie Deane, Cambridge Satchel Company

Ep.076 Jack Millington, Billy Tannery

Ep.143 Kath Whitworth, Celtic & Co

Ep. 41 Paul Smithers, Halycon Blue

Ep 179 Rebecca J Mills

Ep 171 Rich Keegan & Linda Souto Maior, Usual Objections

Ep 23 Sian Reekie, Hettie Co

Ep 78 Katie Walker Furniture

Ep 27 Matt Booth, Both Barrells

Ep 139 Rachael Attwood, Britannical

Ep 108 Steff McGrath, Something Wicked

Ep 82 Joel, Chudleigh, Made to Last

Ep 96 Richard Ince, James Ince & Sons Umbrellas

Ep 120 Emma Willis

Ep 39 Genevieve Sweeney

Ep 129 Samanth Brooke, Waring Brooke

Ep 88 Chris Woodford, Crown Northampton

Ep 141 Emma Mathews, Socko

Ep 153 Gillian Tusting, Tusting

Ep 86

When you go to visit any manufacturer for the first time it’s your opportunity to find out exactly how they operate.

The more factories you visit the more you come to learn what makes a good fit for you and your business.

But there are several key aspects to a well-run factory that you can look out for that should help to inform your decision as to whether you’re in a good place. Discover:

• Why visiting a factory is like buying a house 01:47
• How unhappy looking staff could be a sign of deeper issues 03:18
• Why you need a factory to be busy 03:51
• The most important area of any factory 07:12
• The final point that might really surprise you 09:00

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Data and digital are drastically changing how we all shop and the way that products are made.

In this conversation recorded at Make it British Live! Online, a panel of digital experts from within the fashion industry discuss the importance of data for businesses both large and small, and how it can initiate much more personalised conversations with customers.

The panel is chaired by Jodi Muter-Hamilton, who is joined by Cathy McCabe from Proximity Insight, Craig Crawford from Crawford IT, Peter Needle from Segura and Chloe Watts from chloédigital.

Watch the video recording of this episode.

Discover:

• Introduction to the panellists 03:03
• What data businesses should be capturing and how it can be used 10:49
• How data can be used to show information on sustainability within supply chains 12:21
• What to do with customer data when you have it? 16:33
• How data can help you make the communication with your customers more personal 18:44
• How you use data to find customers 21:06
• Understanding the numbers when it comes to working with influencers 25:44
• How small brands can produce digital content to attract customers and build a community 30:36
• Using data to map supply chains 34:31
• How brands and retailers can use customer insight to lessen returns 38:29
• Why email is not dead! 44:22

More about the speakers

Jodi Muter-Hamilton, Founder of Black Neon Digital (Now called Other Day)

Cathy McCabe, CEO of Proximity Insight

Craig Crawford, VP & Founder of Crawford IT

Peter Needle, CEO of Segura

Chloe Watts, Founder of chloédigital

Jodi Muter-Hamilton podcast > A vision of a world built with integrity

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A range plan is an essential tool for any product business. Without it you are setting yourself up for failure.

Yet many of the small businesses that I speak to that are developing products say they don’t have a range plan. Or they don’t even know what it is!

So in this episode, I explain what a range plan is and why it’s a valuable tool for our business.

And if you really feel like geeking out on why you should not offer your customers too much choice, take a look at this study I mention in this episode.

Discover:

• What is a range plan? 01:45
• How a range plan can help you to calculate how much you need to spend on stock 03:08
• When should you create a range plan? 03:28
• How a range plan helps you to assess whether you are offering your customers too much choice 04:28
• What to include in your range plan 05:58
• How to work out how much you need to invest in stock 07:19
• What's the best way of creating a range plan? 10:15

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Make it British on YouTube - subscribe to my YouTube channel to watch many of the podcast episodes as videos.