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Explorez tous les épisodes du podcast Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas

Plongez dans la liste complète des épisodes de Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Chaque épisode est catalogué accompagné de descriptions détaillées, ce qui facilite la recherche et l'exploration de sujets spécifiques. Suivez tous les épisodes de votre podcast préféré et ne manquez aucun contenu pertinent.

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1–50 of 70

TitreDateDurée
EP52: Nick's Handmade Boots & Horween Leather Co. Discuss Shell Cordovan30 Aug 202401:29:57

Shuyler Mowe (Nick’s Handmade Boots) and John Culliton (Horween Leather Sales) talk with Nick about boots, leather, challenges and more.

https://nicksboots.com/

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

EP51: ICON 4x4 Jonathan Ward22 Aug 202401:50:31

Jonathan Ward (ICON 4x4) is an industrial designer and bespoke crafter of vehicles, clothing and leather goods. Jonathan shares his approach and philosophy when making things, and teaches us the importance of being passionate about what you do.

ICON 4x4
https://www.icon4x4.com/
TLC 4x4
https://www.tlc4x4.com/
J Ward Collection
https://www.instagram.com/jwardcollection/
Campfire Coats
https://campfirecoats.com/

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

EP42: Horween Cypress, Latigo vs. CXL, Grey Colors, Small vs. Established Brands03 May 202401:13:26

Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess.

0:00 Topics
0:30 Horween Cypress Leather 
12:06 Grey Color & “Problem” Colors
25:59 Small Brands vs. Established
1:06:14 Favorites

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the Show.

Support the show

EP41: ⚡Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome⚡, Boot Camp, Leather Perspective19 Apr 202401:21:31

Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC. 

0:00 What’s a podcast?
0:49 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome
45:25 Boot Camp
57:35 Leather Perspective

https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/
https://www.stitchdown.com/
https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

EP40: CXL is Overrated?💰 Is Alden Overpriced? WWII Boots, Dale’s Leatherworks12 Apr 202401:09:31

Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas.

0:00 American Original
1:08 Is CXL Overrated?
19:12 Is Alden Overpriced?
30:03 WWII Boots
38:47 Stuck in a boot world from 10+ years ago
52:38 Nick Q&A Lightning Round
1:00:38 Favorites

https://www.youtube.com/@DalesLeatherworks
https://dalesleatherworks.com/
https://ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

EP39: Sam Parker, Context Clothing, Alden, Roy Boot, Wisconsin Footwear, Supper Clubs05 Apr 202401:23:18

Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce.

https://www.turnkeymadison.com/
https://www.settledownmadison.com/
https://www.ozbyozmadison.com/

0:00 Context Clothing
11:34 Raw Denim & Forums
14:17 Alden
17:13 Roy Boot
24:01 Made In Wisconsin Footwear
28:57 Crepe Sole
32:53 Making Boots Look Great
39:30 Turn Key Supper Club
41:36 Why did Context close?
52:56 Favorites

https://ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

Ep38: Q&A Brain Tanning(!) Leather, Horween Predator, Horsebutt, Rancourt29 Mar 202401:16:24

Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show
https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

0:00 Q&A
0:34 Leather Terms
10:09 Brain Tanning & Home Tanning
13:40 Leather Delays
16:49 Horween Predator Leather
26:17 Rose Anvil Collab
27:11 CXL Horsebutt
34:36 Sneakers
40:44 Color Variation
52:10 Rancourt
58:14 Patina Thunderdome
1:08:02 Favorites

Support the show

EP37: Stridewise, Best Shell Cordovan, Veg vs. Chrome tan, Boot Collecting22 Mar 202401:58:16

Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more.

0:00 Best Shell Cordovan
1:40 First Shell Cordovan Pair and Care
4:30 Horween Chromexcel Leather
9:47 Current Trends in the Boot Scene
18:59 European Style
22:40 Loafers
26:56 Veg Tan vs. Chrome Tan
35:55 Olive Tanned
40:42 Bison
42:41 Chamois and Kudu and Wild Boar
46:59 Guilt-Free Leather
55:39 Things We Got Wrong
1:03:43 Aesthetic Appeal
1:15:49 Indonesian Boots, Crockett & Jones, Loake, Carmina
1:22:01 Social Media Content Game
1:29:53 Viberg
1:40:29 Horween vs. Shinki Shell Cordovan
1:46:31 Favorites


Check our Stridewise for excellent footwear and style coverage. www.stridewise.com

Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. 

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

Support the show

EP: 36 WTF is Aniline? Aniline Leather & Leather Finishing🖌️15 Mar 202401:26:18

Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

0:00 What is Aniline Leather
8:29 Aniline etymology and marketing
14:06 Is aniline leather tough?
16:27 Leather finishing spectrum: Naked to Full
27:37 Finish application methods
38:26 Benefits of full finish
41:08 Finish break and creasing
46:43 Benefits of Aniline Finish
51:11 Fully finished products we love
58:15 Calf and dress shoes
1:01:50 Naked leather products we love
1:10:22 Takeaway summary
1:11:27 Favorites

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support


Support the show

EP35: Suede, Nubuck, Rough Out Waxed Flesh and Genuine Leather: Everything You Want to Know07 Mar 202401:21:56

Nick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How should you care for your suede? Is nubuck more durable than suede? Is a split suede of poor quality? All of the answers are here.

0:00 Genuine Leathers

0:21 What is suede?

9:10 What is rough out and waxed flesh leather?

10:27 Marine Field Shoe CXL

15:19 Nubuck vs. Suede vs. Rough Out

19:53 Natural Variance and Upgrading Leather

21:17 What is nubuck leather?

30:07 Horween Waxed Flesh CXL

34:36 Waterproof Suede

37:20 Horween Chamois Leather

40:57 Suede Tanneries Charles F. Stead

44:03 How to care for suede leather

50:17 Is suede leather durable?

1:02:18 How suede is made

1:12:04 Favorite Suede Products

1:16:49 Off Topic Favorites

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP34: LIVE Q&A Shinki Shell Cordovan, Seidel Double Shot, Calf, Predator, Horsebutt22 Jan 202401:05:26

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions. 

0:00 Favorite Episodes
4:03 Arabica Lux Leather
6:00 Saphir Mirror Gloss
9:11 Tanner’s Blend on Shell Cordovan
10:27 Favorite and Least Favorite Leathers
14:28 Horween’s Crunch Leather
16:33 VIberg Double Butt Shell Cordovan Boot
22:47 Does Horween Tan Calf?
27:11 What Scent Does the Tannery Have?
29:02 Horween Shell Cordovan vs. Other Tanneries
31:37 English Tan Essex, Dublin, Derby Differences
34:54 Horween’s Predator Leather
37:02 Difficult Leathers to Work With
39:31 Wooly Chromexcel
40:27 Cypress Colors
43:55 Best Leather for Hard Wearing Warehouse Work
47:54 What’s the difference? Chrome Tanned, Veg Tan, or Combo
54:01 Essex and Water. Problem?
54:10 Introduce Horween Pinnacle Leather
56:45 Chromexcel Horsebutt
57:23 Marine Field Natural CXL
57:53 Seidel Double Shot vs. Horween CXL

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP33: Ultimate Leather Care Guide. Horween Shell Cordovan Polishing Secrets15 Jan 202401:42:28

Going deep on leather care. 

0:00 1990’s Miami Painting

1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide

4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine

7:58 Leather is Designed to Last

12:31 Shoe Trees

13:44 Phil Kalas’ Leather Care Routine

15:48 Air Dry After Washing Leather

17:50 Leather Conditioner and Saddle Soap

20:59 Use Less Polish

23:35 Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax

24:35 Leather Polish, Venetian Shoe Cream, Saphir

35:49 How Does Horween Polish Shell Cordovan? (Glazing)

38:18 Veg Tanned Leather

39:59 Do You Condition Your Outsole?

41:28 Arnold Horween Jr’s Leather Care Routine

45:11 Skip Horween’s Leather Care Routine

47:03 Leather Care Products We Hate

49:11 Leather Furniture Restoration

53:16 Wax on. Wax off.

54:09 Mac Method

55:00 Polishing Brushes

1:03:30 Polishes for Wallets and Belts

1:14:21 Importance of Leather Thickness

1:20:38 Deer Bone and Ebony Sticks

1:26:45 Spit Shine

1:29:02 Upcoming Livestream Event

1:30:16 Favorite: Christmas

1:32:22 Nick’s Therapy Session


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP50: Horween Leather Tanner Explains Leather Finishing13 Aug 202401:29:16

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains drying methods and leather finishing.

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

EP32: Alden Indy Boot, What is Quality, Meat Industry, Rose Anvil Weston Kay Pt.213 Nov 202301:03:07

Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half.

0:00 Alden Indy Boot
11:30 Making Mistakes
16:15 Responsibility of Being Critical of Brands
19:37 Quality Testing Methods
22:03 Does Leather Thickness Matter?
31:17 Hunting
32:55 What happens to leather if people stop eating meat
39:47 Finding Nuance
42:43 Peaks and Valleys of Life
47:04 Favorites

Post-show Note: Alden has never had a bankruptcy. 

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP31: Rose Anvil Cut in Half. Form vs. Function. Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots. Alden Controversy. Part 1 of 2.02 Nov 202300:46:48

Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He has accumulated a vast amount of footwear and construction knowledge and has become influential with a one million follower base on YouTube. Recently, Rose Anvil has sparked some controversy with a harsh and pointed take on a beloved brand, Alden.

0:00 Recording for YouTube
2:26 Boot design. Has it all been done?
7:53 Do you still like boots?
10:24 Form vs. Function
12:41 Male Fashion Advice
21:25 Being Camera Shy
22:44 How big is Rose Anvil?
25:25 New Rose Anvil Product
30:42 What keeps you interested in boots?
32:32 What is a good boot?
36:33 Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots
39:51 Alden Controversy

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP30 New Leathers at Horween, Stitchdown Boot Camp10 Oct 202300:59:42

Sad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly developed leathers at Horween.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP29: Thunderdome, Bo Jackson, What Makes Leather Smell?, Hot Stuffing Explained02 Oct 202300:50:19

Answering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP28: Rare Shell Cordovan25 Sep 202300:55:20

Nick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP27: FEW Spirits, Craft Spirit Appreciation 101, Barrel Aging, Bourbon12 Jun 202301:35:30

Meet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his insights on how to savor the flavors of craft spirits, what makes a good fermentation base, how barrel aging works, and what distinguishes bourbon, scotch, and single malt. He also talks about the latest trends in non-alcoholic drinks and how they compare to their boozy counterparts.

0:00 Collaborations

3:11 Craft Spirit Appreciation 101

24:42 Getting into Distilling

32:53 How Spirits are Made

32:23 Fermentation Source: Comparing Corn vs. Wheat

46:58 Before Few Spirits

48:56 Barrel Aging

58:38 Bourbon, Scotch, White Oak, Coopers, Single Malt

1:12:20 What is Few Spirits known for?

1:21:25 Non-Alcohol Beverage Trends

1:25:44 US Government Formula Approvals from TTB

1:28:21 Favorites 

https://www.fewspirits.com/

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com



Support the show

EP26: Nomad Goods Brian Hahn: Creating Apple Tech Accessories to Work from Anywhere05 Jun 202301:40:11

Brian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle.


0:00 Work from anywhere

4:16 At Best Buy and Boutiques

7:45 Sourcing Horween Leather and Materials

13:01 Manufacturing with Natural Leather

17:19 The Best Material

21:10 Designing for Different Markets

23:12 Selling on Amazon

26:13 Leather Finish and Variation

30:16 Sustainability

36:26 Apple Watch

41:31 Headphones and Audiophile

43:50 Do Nothing

51:05 Design Philosophy, Designing Details

55:55 Quality Control

1:01:51 Made in China

1:05:22 Ecco Leather

1:09:12 Horween Dublin vs. Shell Cordovan

1:13:33 Made in USA

1:16:56 Vapor Deposited Titanium

1:20:34 Metal Injection Molding MIM

1:24:13 Upcoming Nomad Products

1:24:52 Working with Apple

1:27:31 Augmented and Virtual Reality

1:32:55 A No Leather Future?

1:35:28 Favorites


https://nomadgoods.com/


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com


Support the show

EP25: Comparing Shell Cordovan, Horsehide, Cow, Steer, Deer, Bison22 May 202300:52:45

What do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Nick and Phil have a combined 30+ years of leather tannery experience. They explain how shell cordovan, cow, steer, horse, bison, and deer skin vary in their features and functions. Which one is the most suitable for a formal shoe? A rugged boot?

0:00 Always Workin’

1:01 Leather Hide Types

2:33 Coarse vs. Fine Grain Character

3:53 Performance Characteristic

5:34 Best Leather for Dress Shoes

9:35 Deerskin

12:00 Most Casual Hide

12:11 Grain Characteristics 

17:28 Fat Wrinkles vs. Draw

22:38 CXL on Different Hides

24:52 Tannages and Pit Tanning

31:32 Horween Shell Cordovan Differences

48:28 Favorites


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP24: The History of Buckleguy: How Hardware is Made, Sourcing Hardware and Leather15 May 202301:13:26

The Inside Scoop on Buckles, Hardware, and Leather

In this episode, we sit down with Hugh Harriss, the 4th generation proprietor of Buckleguy. Hugh shares his insights on the history of leather, buckles, and hardware, the story of how Buckleguy got started, and the challenges of sourcing hardware and leather. He also discusses upcoming Buckleguy products, and offers advice on choosing the right hardware for your projects.

This is a must-listen for anyone who is interested in leathercraft, DIY, or simply wants to learn more about the world of buckles and hardware.

https://www.buckleguy.com/

0:00 Reconnecting

2:17 How hardware is created

9:20 Hardware is a challenge

17:03 How Buckleguy got started

30:22 Why brass?

39:14 Sourcing and selling leather

44:38 Dry splitting vs. wet splitting

55:29 Upcoming products

1:07:27 Favorites

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com





Support the show

EP23: Portland Leather Goods Curtis Matsko08 May 202301:19:09

Curtis is the CEO, founder, and the energy for Portland Leather Goods and Patina.

https://www.portlandleathergoods.com/
https://patina.com/

0:00 Coming to America

2:22 Starting Portland Leather

7:25 Leather

12:16 Forecasting

16:19 Hide Market, Material Delays

21:24 Leather for Women

35:00 Best Leather?

43:23 Mystery Box

45:36 Scale

54:08 Growing in a Pandemic

56:16 Sustainability - Recraftable Boot? 

1:00:36 Thursday Boot

1:07:41 Future Products

1:11:10 Made in USA

1:13:45 Tannery Leather Working Group Relevance

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Watch on YouTube

Follow on Instagram

email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show

EP49: Boot-Wearing Guide to Horween Leather06 Aug 202401:43:17

Stitchdown's writer, Zaid Hintzman, asks the best questions for boot fans interested in Horween leather. Nick and Phil explain the features and characteristics in many Horween leathers including shell cordovan, Horsebutt veg, CXL, Predator and more.

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

Support the show

EP22: AI Asks About Leather, Patina Thunderdome Recap, Bog Bodies01 May 202300:40:07

Back in the saddle again. We’re back with another podcast for the inquisitive minds. Join us, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas, as we delve into the intriguing worlds of patina and preservation, from the leather boots that develop a rich character in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome contest, to the ancient human remains that are frozen in time in peat bogs.

0:00 A Beautiful Voice

0:24 Real Estate Market

2:00 Chat GPT Asks Nick

8:18 Patina Thunderdome Recap

26:15 Bog Bodies


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

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EP21: Maverick Leather, Horween Seconds, USA Tanneries, New Car Smell, Salz Tannery20 Mar 202301:26:32

Matt Foster started Maverick Leather 40 years ago. He has a lifetime of leather information. From their new home in Bend, Oregon Maverick sells Horween seconds and leather from many tanneries.

0:00 Eye Surgery

1:16 Horween Seconds, Reselling Leather

9:58 USA Leather Tanneries

16:58 What leathers don’t exist anymore

24:26 Environmental Regulations

38:18 Maverick’s Customer Base

32:51 Tandy Leather

34:54 Leaving California for Oregon

41:51 Family Business

45:16 Horween Dublin Wax Finish

47:49 Favorite Leather

50:38 Saddle and Harness Makers

53:59 Leon Mexico

55:13 Tanneries in Chicago

57:14 Trends and Cycles

1:01:18 New Car Smell, Scented Leather

1:10:51 Salz Tannery Santa Cruz

1:12:18 Nose Blind

1:13:22 Hides and Exotics

1:16:32 Favorites

https://maverickleathercompany.com/
https://www.instagram.com/maverickleather/

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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EP20: Oak Street Bootmakers, Calf Shortage, Made in USA, Hand Lasting, Leather Board, Ralph Lauren13 Mar 202301:29:44

George Vlagos started Oak Street Bootmakers in 2010. The brand makes boots and shoes in the USA and has a wide offering of styles, leathers, and colors. George talks about their mission to make shoes in the USA, explains hand lasting, and tells us how Ralph Lauren is an inspiration.

0:00 Calfskin Shortage

7:45 Why Made in USA?

18:31 Hand Lasted Boots

31:07 Boat Shoes and Handsewn Shoes

41:15 Best-Sellers, Style vs. Comfort

48:50 Leather Board

58:05 What Makes Oak Street Special

1:03:03 Sizing and Fit

1:15:29 Ralph Lauren

1:18:18 New Styles

1:21:50 Favorites

https://oakstreetbootmakers.com/

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.


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EP19: Werner Erkelens, Bass Player for Monuments, Aviations, International Touring Musician06 Mar 202300:55:53

Werner is the bassist for Monuments and Aviations. He shares his passion for music and unveils some truths about the touring life of a musician.

0:00 Can you play bleed?

1:13 Posh touring life in France

4:28 Is there money in music?

9:54 Why bass?

17:04 Writing Process

25:58 International Touring

33:00 What do your parents think?

35:12 What do you want to be better at?

39:04 Favorite Bassist

44:33 Favorites


Support Werner on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/WernerErkelens/posts

https://www.thisismonuments.co/

https://aviations.bandcamp.com/music


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.


https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

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EP18: Shell Cordovan Scratches and Repair, NEW Leather, Teacore, Wooly CXL27 Feb 202301:07:45

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing questions. Have a question? Email fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

0:00 Chat GPT

2:14 Cordovan & Dublin Scratching and Repair

5:21 New Cypress Leather

10:50 Leather We Don’t Like

15:00 Horween’s Austin Leather

13:13 Most Common Belt Size

18:44 Steerhide vs. Horsehide

24:37 Size of Viberg and Ashland and Horween

31:44 Drum Dye and Aniline Dye

34:45 Teacore Leather

38:19 Does Every Horse Contain a Shell

45:32 Removing Finish from Shell Cordovan

52:50 Leather Conditioning

55:55 Wooly Chromexcel

58:27 Indonesian Bootmakers

1:04:25 Favorites


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.


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E17: Black Bear Brand, Kevin Costner Jacket, Vintage Cars, Motorcycles, Travel, Boro, Wesco20 Feb 202301:29:06

Josh Sirlin lives in chaos and it is the chaos that has created the products for Black Bear Brand. He tells the story of how he has awoken the bear and his adventure chasing smiles.

https://blackbearbrand.com/

https://www.instagram.com/blackbearbrand/

0:00 Next to the tannery everyday

4:35 Kevin Costner Jacket on Yellowstone

12:43 Black Bear Origin

18:58 A Weekend in Whistler

28:39 Vintage cars and motorcycles

33:30 Design Process and Inspiration

45:31 Chasing the Smile

48:17 First Black Bear Brand Product

51:05 Sobriety  

55:47 Calling Skip Horween

58:57 Boro Patchwork Textile

1:05:53 What Makes Leather Special

1:09:25 Wesco Boots and Most Popular Items

1:15:37 Who is Black Bear Brand For

1:20:30 Favorites


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.


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E16: Dashing Chicago, Alden, Edward Green, Leather Care, Proper Fit13 Feb 202301:44:40

Sean Moran from Dashing Chicago. Sean used to work for Haberdash and Leffot in Chicago. He has carried his relationships forward with Alden and Edward Green and sells their footwear, and other brands, in his downtown Chicago store.

https://dashingchicago.com/
https://www.instagram.com/dashingchicago

0:00 Sharp Dressed Man

2:42 Sean Dashing Chicago

5:21 In-Person Shopping

7:42 Midwest Style

14:35 Leather Color Challenges

21:01 Rare Shell Cordovan Colors

25:08 Price Bias

29:05 Alden and Edward Green Special Makeups

35:13 Edward Green Style

40:00 Proper Shoe Fit

46:06 Water Spots on Shell Cordovan

56:59 Leather Care and Conditioning

1:00:58 Last Shapes

1:06:15 Alden Stock Challenges

1:12:00 Alden Indy Boot Rose Anvil Controversy 

1:21:07 Price Increases

1:25:50 Fitting Based on Age

1:32:35 Favorites

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E15: We need to talk about Chromexcel, Boots, Mechanical Seals, Historical Documents, WWII06 Feb 202301:08:19

Nick Horween resurrects some 100+ year old documents uncovering some of Chromexcel’s history. We discuss the origins of Chromexcel, some of the original uses, and strengths/weaknesses of this special tannage.

0:00 We’re Back

1:13 Chromexcel Leather

2:50 Original Uses Boots and Seals

9:04 What is Chromexcel

19:07 CXL on Boots and Shoes and Belts

21:05 CXL Stretch and Drying Methods

31:36 CXL Variations and Colors

36:08 Historical Documents

1:03:21 Favorites


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

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E14: Grant Stone Part 2 Wyatt & Josh’s Shoe Journey, Women’s Footwear, New Styles/Colors, Quality Specs 26 Dec 202201:10:57

Part two of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone.

https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E13: Grant Stone, Leather Break, Alden, Heel Slip, Lasts19 Dec 202201:03:15

Part one of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. Part two goes up on December 26th 2022.

https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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EP48: Leather Tanning 10115 Jul 202401:12:37

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains leather tanning and retanning. Leave your tanning and finishing questions in the YouTube comments.

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

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E12: The Stitchdown Shoecast - Ben and Ticho12 Dec 202201:39:05

The crossover episode you've been waiting for. SHOECAST with Ben and Ticho from Stitchdown Shoecast.

https://www.stitchdown.com/
https://www.stitchdown.com/stitchdown-shoecast/all-podcast-episodes/

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E11: Translucent Leather, Shrunken Horsebutt, JR Soles, Russian Reindeer Boxboard05 Dec 202201:16:21

Answering all of your important questions. A livestream replay with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. 

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E10: 3sixteen - Raw Denim, Self Edge, 20th Anniversary Collabs28 Nov 202200:52:13

Andrew Chen and Johan Lam from 3sixteen tell us about their 20 year history. Starting with t-shirts and inspired by vintage clothing, they are now known for raw denim jeans.

https://www.3sixteen.com/
https://www.instagram.com/andrew3sixteen
https://www.instagram.com/johan3sixteen

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E9: Jason Gregory MAKR Studio, Leather Goods, Made in USA, Minimalism21 Nov 202201:25:48

Jason Gregory simply loves making stuff. From leather goods, canvas bags, furniture and even architecture -- Jason's entire being is devoted to creation.

https://makr.com/
https://www.instagram.com/makr_

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E8: Patina, Veg Tan, Olive Tan, Chrome Tan, Wax Flesh, Patina Thunderdome14 Nov 202200:56:24

What is patina? Nick Horween explains what patina is, how to prevent it, and what we love about it. 

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E7: Anthony Spina SYSTEM, Old Style, White Claw, Inclusive Drinking, Dive Bars, Tannery Row07 Nov 202200:59:59

Today's guest is the founder of SYSTEM Seltzer, Anthony Spina. Anthony describes drinking habits in the US, Chicago dive bars, the export of US culture, social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin and more.

1:55 US Drinking Habits 

5:56 First Cell phones

11:05 Inclusive Drinking

15:33 Chicago dive bars

23:37 Export of US Culture

26:15 social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin

37:31 Building Community, Schlitz, Old Style, White Claw, Chicago Pizza Summit


Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E6: Skip Horween Tannery Work, Seasonality of Hides, Made in Maine, Boat Shoe Indicator31 Oct 202200:58:01

Skip Horween is the 4th generation owner of Horween Leather Company in Chicago.

0:00 What it is like working at a tannery?
5:50 Material Price increases
8:26 Leather Lead Times
12:15 Seasonality of Hides
15:47 Supply Chain and Inflation Cycle
24:09 Shoemaking in Maine
30:34 The Boat Shoe Indicator
36:36 Football Cycle
39:44 Hides are Different Today
45:11 I can't believe it's not leather
49:13 Supply Chain Overview, inflation/deflation

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E5: Leather Prices Increasing, Supply Chain, Just In Time Inventory, James Webb Space Telescope24 Oct 202200:44:45

Space facts! Along with just about everything, we are experiencing leather price increases. Why are they going up? Chatting about supply chain issues, globalization, just in time inventory management, and the James Webb Space Telescope.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E4: Sustainability, Environmental Stewardship, "Vegan Leather", Patagonia, Waterproof17 Oct 202200:42:29

Sustainability is a loaded term. Everything has an impact. Nick Horween breakdown the environmental auditing process that many tanneries receive.  "Vegan leather" are two words that probably should be used together. Patagonia is making an effort to move away from durable water repellant. Fluorinated DWR contains PFCs which are a suspected carcinogen.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E3: Brett Viberg of Viberg Boot - New Brand Direction, Service Boot, Chromexcel Lottery, Customer Service10 Oct 202200:56:59

A conversation with Brett Viberg from Viberg boot. We ask Brett about what changes are being made to the brand, how the service boot ushered in a new era, what each generation has brought to the business, the Chromexcel Lottery, customer service, and other topics.

Check out Viberg Boot here.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.

Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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EP47: Dean Delray, Leather Jackets, Stand-Up Comedy08 Jul 202401:26:49

Dean Delray is a stand-up comedian, podcaster, design lover and jacket collector.

https://www.deandelray.com/
https://www.instagram.com/deandelray/?hl=en

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

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E2: Football Leather Hat(?), What is Full Grain Leather, JR Rendenbach Closing30 Sep 202201:00:12

As you expect, everything else is falling apart.

Today's episode goes hard on leather marketing terms like, full grain, top grain, genuine leather, aniline leather, and more.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.
Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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E1: Chicago Hot Dogs, Podcasts, Being Old, HBO Shows25 Sep 202200:23:59

Please allow myself to introduce...myself. Full Grain Podcast is Nick Horween and Phil Kalas chatting about quality goods and the people who make them.

First episode! Today we chat about how raw onions are terrible on Chicago Hot Dogs. They aren't good, right? Today's intro episode is about podcasts that we like, what type of content to look forward to at Full Grain and what content we don't want to do (politics), how twerking makes Phil feel old, and our favorite recent HBO shows.

Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.
Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.

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EP46: Q&A Chromepak vs. CXL, Horween Pinnacle, Coffee Tanning, Why Pit Tan?01 Jul 202400:53:41

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing leather questions.

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

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EP45: Shell Cordovan, Dublin, Essex, Pit Tanning, Tree Barks24 Jun 202401:06:40

Nick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend of tree barks. Horween’s Essex leather can also be finished into other products including Horween’s Dublin and Derby.

https://www.ashlandleather.com/
https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast

Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/

The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/

https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com

Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support

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