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Upon bringing home a puppy or rescue dog, two important issues to focus on the first few weeks are building a bond with your new dog and establishing good potty training habits. I always advocate starting your relationship off as a leader who sets the rules of the house. This role as a leader includes teaching your pup where to eliminate. I hope to simplify the whole process in this episode by listing several suggestions to make it the least stressful possible on you and your dog. I also would like to share some memorable stories of clients who sought out my help to potty train their dogs.
Over the years, I have found that people will tolerate ALOT when it comes to potty training. Either they have poor information to begin with, or they are okay with ‘accidents’ in the house. Many times, I start helping clients after potty training has become a problem. Their dog just doesn’t seem to get the concept. They want their dogs to only eliminate outside, but they unknowingly have been sending them mixed signals.
Pet parents have to be willing to change what they have currently been doing. What they have been doing hasn’t worked, so most clients are usually open to trying different tactics. I have had a lot of success with my suggestions and this is what I would like to pass on to you. As I tell my clients, even with rehabbing certain behavioral issues such as jumping or nipping, if plan A doesn’t work, try plan B. If plan B doesn’t work, go to plan C, and so on. This strategy works for potty training too.
Remember, initially, dog training involves teaching the humans how to communicate effectively with their dog first and then training the dogs. Many people successfully potty train their dogs without any assistance. It is what comes naturally and logically to them and they have a cooperative dog. I know this because I ask every client if there are any issues with potty training. I don’t stop there. I ask more questions to find out if that is really true. Sometimes, the client tells me that potty training is not an issue, but then the dog has an accident right in front of me. This can be a touchy subject when this “occasional accident” has been happening for over a year.
Other clients tolerate accidents for so long hoping that the dog will figure it out as they get older. This never has led to success. Whether the dog is large or small, I have been to homes where the dog has had “accidents” in the same places on and off for many months, that turn into years, and then for the rest of the dog’s life (which means the humans have given up and just accepted their dog’s indoor potty habits).
Story #1
One client had two dogs, but was focused on potty training the puppy. When I arrived, the puppy was in a crate. The older dog was loose in the house and greeted me very happily, but was jumping on me. I thought this would be an easy appointment - show the client how to have her dog greet people without jumping and give some suggestions for potty training the puppy. After all, half of the job was done because she was already using the crate! She was just using it for some other purpose unbeknownst to me. The client let the puppy out and put her in a pen she had set up with pee pads. The puppy immediately peed and was excited to meet me. So much for the easy appointment. I gave this client all the tips I have listed below, but she didn’t like how I used the crate for potty training. Needless to say, I never got a call back for further advice!
Exceptions to potty training outdoors
Potty training outdoors is the most desirable place for dogs to eliminate. However, there are exceptions where pee pads or diaper wraps are necessary. For example, pee pads will help if the dog has had surgery and has very limited mobility. There are also dogs that are in their last stage of life and do not have control of their bladder and bowels. There are options for these cases, such as diaper wraps and confining the dog to a certain part of the house that makes clean up easier. However, confining a potty trained older dog after they have had full rein of the house can be very challenging.
I also make an obvious exception with newborn puppies. They cannot control their bowels and urine the first several weeks of their life. Their Mom will lick them to stimulate to go and will ingest what is excreted. Yick! When they are 6-8 weeks, they can be taught to start going outside. Some breeders take it upon themselves to start that process before they are placed in their forever home. This can be a tremendous help, but the pet parent still has to figure out how to do what the breeder did, in their own home. Herein lies the challenge.
Using fake grass outside
I have had clients whose dogs were trained to eliminate on fake grass on a deck right outside of their house or apartment. Sometimes this is necessary because the dog is so small and the temperature is extremely cold for them. I do not envy people who have to potty train their dogs in the winter. We all have experienced how long it can take for their dog to finally eliminate. They get outside and get so distracted that eliminating is the furthest thing on their minds! So, placing the fake grass close to the house and even taking the puppy out on a leash and guiding them to that specific area can work. When the puppy is bigger and the temperature is warmer, you can still take them out on leash in the front or backyard.
The “Poop Arena”
In the winter time, when there is snow on the ground, I recommend shoveling out a “poop arena”. Sometimes the snow can be deeper than the height of the dog. We did this for our Corgi.
Story #2
Another example of how fake grass can help potty train a puppy is one of my clients had to place fake grass on her balcony because she lived in a high rise apartment. The puppy was way too big to carry and it took too long to walk him down the long hallway and get in the elevator without having an accident. As soon as the puppy could hold it longer, she was able to walk him to the elevator to get to the place where there was an area for dogs to eliminate.
Story #3
Another client adopted a Shih Tzu named Princess who spent her first 3 years in a crate. She never experienced any other daily life but the inside of a crate. This meant she defecated, urinated, and ate in one that was most likely stacked on top of others. Many dogs were rescued from this particular hoarding situation, where they were living in substandard conditions. Knowing this, Princess’ pet parent vowed to never put her in a crate again.
After talking to the vet, Princess’ pet parent decided to potty train her outside instead of using pee pads indoors. She was small enough to carry downstairs and in the elevator to help speed up that process. She had gastrointestinal issues throughout her life due to the poor diet from the neglect and abuse she experienced. This made potty training challenging at times. It was necessary to learn her bowel habits to avoid accidents. The great news is that Princess was able to be successfully potty trained outdoors even while living on the 30th floor of an apartment building!
Princess passed away this year but taught everyone who met her that dogs can overcome the most horrendous conditions and have a fulfilled life. She was very fortunate to find her forever pet parent.
Potty Training My Dog Ebi
I like to recount the story of potty training my Leonberger, Ebi. I knew she was going to be a big dog and there was no way I was going to put up with huge puddles of urine or big piles of poop! So, express potty training was a necessity! It was 8 years ago, but from what I remember, I bet she had less than 10 accidents until the day I considered her fully potty trained.
My husband and I blocked off our house with gates so that Ebi only had access to the front hallway and kitchen. We had a chair in the hallway that one of us would sit on while she was awake and playing. We called it poop patrol. We took turns. If neither of us could watch her, we would put her in her crate. In the beginning, sometimes we would take her outside every 10 minutes. We started to recognize the signs that she had to go.
Signs That Your Puppy Has to Go:
* abruptly stopping whatever they are doing and start wandering away
* sniffing in a particular area
* twirling around and squatting
* restlessness/hyper energy - not able to focus on anything or settle down
* going close to where they are let out
* barking and/or whining by the door
Using a Pen With Open Floor Plans
Potty training can be very challenging with houses that have an open kitchen living room, dining room and family room. The distance between two walls is too great to set up gates. For this type of layout, setting up a pen can provide the same purpose as a crate. This can be more challenging due to the amount of ample space available in these pens. There is enough space for them to eliminate in one spot and lay down in another spot. It is a safe place to leave the dog unattended for brief periods of time. Your dog also has to be trained to respect the boundaries by not jumping out or sliding it across the floor.
Pens are also great to place outside for yards without fences. Two pens can be attached together to give the dog more room. It can also be a safe place where the pet parent can scan the area for nuts, animal poop, and other things that puppies shouldn’t eat.
Story #4
I remember a client who lived in a house with an open floor plan and got a pen for her puppy. She did not like the concept of crates. The pen worked until the puppy figured out how to climb and jump over the pen. He proceeded to go to his favorite spot by the door to eliminate. Then, she tried to put a top on the pen. He figured out how to get out of that. I told her the only option was the crate which she did not want to do, but it did the trick.
Be Proactive
I find some people expect to get signs from the dog that they have to go out. They never get the signs and the dog has accidents. It is best to be proactive and take the dog out often, instead of waiting for a sign.
Potty Bells
Dogs can be trained to use potty bells. I was going to train Ebi on potty bells until she told us a different way by sitting by the door. Potty bells work by training the dog to touch the bells with their nose or paw to indicate they need to eliminate. They are recommended to be hung beside the door used to go outside. The pet parent has to be very close by and immediately take the dog outside. When the dog eliminates, they verbally are praised and get a treat within 2 seconds.
I find the majority of the clients I have helped, sought out good information, but interpreted it incorrectly, causing confusion in the dog. The main issue that gets misinterpreted is how to use the crate for potty training. I have helped plenty of clients successfully potty train a dog without a crate, but there has to be a confined space that acts like a crate and/or a way for the dog to alert you that he has to eliminate. Otherwise, frequent trips outside combined with a watchful eye are an absolute must.
Using a Crate for Potty Training
Let’s talk about using the crate for potty training. First of all, I am a big proponent of crates. They provide a comfortable, safe space for the dog and can prevent separation anxiety. I recommend closing and locking the crate door to ensure the dog gets a decent nap and doesn’t feel they have to follow you everywhere you go in the house. If used during the day while you are home, crates with the door closed and locked can guarantee the dog gets in good naps for the day. Some people use them and leave the door open so the dog can come and go as they please. This is what I do now with my 8 year old dog, but while I was training her, I always locked the door.
Using the crate is also an obedience skill from a leadership point of view. If I want my dog to go to her crate, I want to be able to put her there for whatever reason. I still will use the crate if we have maintenance men to the house or if there are a lot of people with food around. She is a big, hairy dog and no one appreciates fur on their food! Most recently, the crate came in very handy when Ebi got skunked. We moved the crate outside and kept her in there until I felt she didn’t smell that much anymore. Then, we brought it back in that evening.
In my opinion, having a puppy or bringing home a rescue dog is stressful enough without having to deal with potty training. I’m all for the least amount of stress possible while I go about my day. Crates can help simplify your schedule and can be used almost like a babysitter. If you can’t keep your eyes on your dog, the crate is the answer. When you are training a puppy and need to get a shower in, the crate is the best and safest place for them.
The biggest reason why crates work for potty training is that typically, dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep or eat. The crate needs to be the size of the dog where they can only have room to lay down and turn around. Otherwise, they will pee or poop in one corner and lay in the other corner. Once the puppy/dog figures that out, it makes it that much more challenging to use the crate for potty training, even with the best product on the market.
How to Train a Dog to Get Acclimated to a Crate
Anytime you introduce anything new to a dog, you want to get to know it through their sense of smell. Have the dog approach the crate and encourage them to be curious about it and to want to sniff it all over. Open and close the door so they can get used to the sound it makes. If any step causes some fear, just do it again very gently. Also, if at any time your dog whines or barks, be aware of how long they can be in there without vocalizing and just repeat that length of time many times until they can be quiet. Your dog may be sensitive and need some extra encouragement. If at any point your dog just refuses, end the session with something positive they can do near the crate and try later.
The dog must be calm and quiet while in the crate!
Once your dog seems to behave confidently around the crate, throw some treats inside. They have to get used to the sound of their claws on the plastic tray insert. Lure them inside with a treat by their nose until all 4 paws are on the tray. As soon as all 4 paws are on the tray, verbally praise them and give them a treat. Invite them back out with lots of enthusiasm. I highly advise to NOT put any beds, pillows, or soft toys in there. Dogs love to pee on things, especially soft beds. If they have an accident, it’s one more thing you have to wash and get the urine smell out.
Once you have successfully done this at least 5 times in a row, lure them in and lock the door. Count to 3 or 5 seconds and invite them back out. With every successful step, repeat that step at least 5-10 times. Continue this pattern and leave them inside for 7-10 seconds. Try not to stare at them the whole time. Sometimes looking at them causes them to get anxious or excited and can interrupt your training session. Repeat this process until they can stay inside for about 5 minutes. You can intermittently feed them treats while they are in there. This keeps the experience positive.
The last stage is that you lure the dog in the crate, give them their reward, lock the door, and leave the room for about 5 seconds. Gradually increase the duration by seconds, not minutes, until they can be in their crate without vocalizing. This is when I recommend giving them a kong filled with almond butter and/or pumpkin. This keeps them busy licking and not noticing how long they are in there. Never guess how long they can stay in there. Always time the session.
Story #5
One client’s dog had a severe aversion to his crate. Something traumatic must have happened to the dog before they brought him home. This family was so kind and I truly believed them when they told me that they did nothing negative to cause this aversion. They wanted to do the right thing, bought the right size crate, but never could get the dog to go in it. By the time I came to help them, I had them show me how the dog reacted. It was probably one of the most severe reactions I have ever seen. There was no way I was going to force this issue. Besides, they had the perfect kitchen to block the dog in and he was very comfortable being there. He actually had an alert stance to tell the family he needed to go out, so that case was a success without the crate.
What to Do When Your Dog Doesn’t Eliminate When You Take Them Out
A common issue with every puppy or dog is that when you take them out, they don’t go. Once they come back in, they go. The way to rectify this is to put them in their crate as soon as you reenter the house and take them out again in about 5 minutes. Keep repeating this cycle until the dog finally eliminates. This is exactly what crate training means. You are using the crate as a place the dog can be without them eliminating. They don’t want to eliminate in the place where they sleep or eat. That being said, I also recommend using the crate for napping and spending the night. I even go as far as saying that it is best to have the crate in your room, especially when first bringing home your pup. A crate in your bedroom for night time and for keeping them safe while you can’t keep an eye on them and then one downstairs is optimal.
If you are told that someone potty trained their puppy in a week, I would have to question that. Sure the puppy may have picked up rather quickly that outside is where it’s at, but they still have to be monitored for many months. When my dog Ebi was a puppy, within days of bringing her home, she alerted me by going to the back door and sitting facing me. She still does this today. The only difference is when she sits by the door, her big body slams up against the door and makes a big sound too!
Accidents happen. They are inevitable.
Below is a list of tips to make potty training the quickest possible and the least stressful.
* Take the puppy out often - every 10-15 minutes (no more than 30 minutes) while they are awake or as soon as they exhibit a sign listed above.
* As soon as the puppy wakes up from a nap, take them out right away.
* Take the puppy out within a half hour of eating/drinking/playing.
* Wake the puppy up in the middle of the night - 3-4 hours after going to bed. Then after a month or so, lengthen that duration by a half hour or hour until they can hold it through the night.
* Feed the puppy by 5:00pm and lift up the water after 7:00pm or at least 4-5 hours before you go to bed.
* Keep a log of what time the dog last eliminated. This is especially useful in family situations.
* Get the most effective cleaner specifically for dogs which address pee and poop accidents, like Natures Miracle. Bleach and carpet cleaner do not remove the urine enzymes or all of the poop smell.
* Cordon off your home with gates to restrict access to the whole house. The more access the puppy/dog has, the more places they will have accidents. Your house should not be their toilet!
* Put your dog back in the crate if he doesn’t eliminate outside. Wait a couple of minutes and try again. Repeat this until the dog eliminates and praise them.
* NEVER push your dog’s nose into the pee or poop to show them that it’s wrong. This does not work.
* ALWAYS stomp your feet or clap your hands if you catch them in the middle of eliminating. This usually stops them mid-stream. Then, immediately whisk them outside and praise them when they go.
* Reward your puppy/dog within 2 seconds of finishing peeing or pooping by verbally praising and/or treats.
* If no one can keep an eye on your dog, put them in their crate.
* Always take the dog out from the same door.
* Take the dog out on a leash - after they eliminate, they can be rewarded with free time off leash.
Problems with potty training can cause great discord amongst family members. Within a family, there can be some who are fine with potty pads and others who think outside is the only place for the dog to eliminate. This causes a lot of tension within the family.
When I volunteered at Cuyahoga County Animal Shelter over 15 years ago, I was told that the number one reason dogs were given up to the shelter was due to unsuccessful potty training. So, it can be a make or break issue whether you keep the dog or not. Most of the time, it’s not the dog’s fault. It’s the humans not doing what it takes to successfully train the dog. It’s really not that difficult. I will admit there are more challenging cases than most, but all in all, it’s pretty simple, just like dogs are.
Please leave me a comment to let me know how potty training went for you. If you need any help, please call me at the number below. You can also email me at: canineconcierge@att.net.
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Search and Rescue Canines at Ground Zero on 9/11/01
mercredi 9 septembre 2026 • Durée 01:20:34
**I am reposting this must-see podcast from last year in recognition of the 25th anniversary of 9/11/2001.
This episode is dedicated to my guest, Gary Flynn; all of the Task Forces deployed with their search and rescue canines, including Ohio Task Force 1, and, most importantly, those who perished on September 11, 2001. This episode is also dedicated to the dog handlers and emergency crews who continue to suffer from the trauma they experienced during that time, as well as to the family members who continue to support their loved ones as they cope with the lasting mental and physical health effects.
September 11 was the worst terrorist attack on U.S. soil. People were stunned and frightened as they watched the events unfold on their television screens. After the plot to destroy human lives and weaken American leadership had concluded on that horrific day, the largest call-up of emergency services occurred and FEMA task forces were deployed. One of the 26 FEMA task forces summoned was Gary Flynn and Ohio Task Force 1.
I highly recommend listening to this podcast where Gary describes, in detail at times, how the events impacted him and his 5 year old Belgian Malinois, Tascha. To say that this was an emotional podcast is an understatement. In fact, words cannot describe adequately the plethora of information that Gary was willing to share. Therefore, I am only going to write about details in the best way possible to help break down the magnitude of that day, and the months and years to follow. This is also the platform where I can share photos that Gary took during his time there. Never did I think that I would meet and get to know someone who I could call my mentor and my friend, and someone who tirelessly worked at finding survivors with his personally trained professional dog.
This was a war zone, no doubt about that. The way that Gary describes how he got the call while working his day job at BIOPLASTICS CO. in North Ridgeville, Ohio, is already uniquely different than the majority of us who watched the news that day in our homes. He was called up and ready to go like any soldier summoned to war.
We all remember exactly where we were when we found out about the first plane slamming into the World Trade Center. None of us dreamt this was part of a much bigger plot to wreak devastation on a such a grand scale. We were able to watch the events on tv in the security of our homes. However, the first responders and those called up to search for survivors had to risk their lives and the lives of their beloved and highly trained canines.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
How Border Collies Work with Ohio Geese Control
mardi 25 août 2026 • Durée 41:31
Geese are beautiful birds with fascinating behavioral patterns that are interesting to observe. Their black heads and necks, along with their distinctive white-striped cheeks, make them especially striking to look at. I always stop to watch them up above when I see them in their infamous V-shaped flight pattern. However, they can be a nuisance to communities and businesses when they begin settling in large groups. In particular, the goose droppings are annoying to anyone walking on grass, sidewalks, or parking lots where they have been. Not only do the droppings carry diseases and present walking hazards, they can cause sickness in dogs if ingested. We all know how tempting animal feces are to dogs! Geese can also become aggressive while protecting their nests. They will hiss, pump their heads up and down, and charge at whatever is threatening their territory.
My guest, Marci Hower, joined her husband, Jeff, in managing geese populations, after Jeff came up with the idea of using a resident Border Collie at the golf course where he worked, to scare away the geese that had settled there. Since he had success at the golf course, he started taking the dog other places and inquiring if he and his dog could chase away their resident geese for free. Jeff started exploring whether a business plan of using well trained dogs to chase geese away was a viable way to make a living. After all, this was a new concept in Ohio. It took about three years to establish a fully functional business. Finally, Ohio Geese Control (OGC) was formed in 2004, with the headquarters located in Cleveland.
Initially, Jeff used the dog from the golf course with a binding agreement that the dog would live with Marci and Jeff. It is very important that the dogs used for this type of work live and bond with their handlers. When Jeff was ready to start the business, he purchased the dog, named Nick, from the golf course. Soon after that, they started adding to their pack. They learned that not all dogs are suitable for this type of work. The ones that were, became very effective in managing geese populations.
Marci and Jeff have grown their company to servicing not only Cleveland, but also Akron, Canton, Toledo, Columbus, Cincinnati, and Dayton. There are currently 100 employees and 30 working dogs. When Ohio Geese Control is awarded with a contract in any of these areas, they search for the right dog in that area that can be accustomed to working with geese and can become a good family dog too. Sometimes, Marci and Jeff find dogs in nearby rescue agencies or farms. If they assess that the dog will fit this criteria, they will temporarily foster the dog until the employee has been trained and is ready to take on the dog.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
A Guide to Making the Best Food Choices for Your Dog and Cat - Part 2
mercredi 5 août 2026 • Durée 39:53
Nutrition is defined as the process of consuming, absorbing, and using nutrients from food that is necessary for growth, development, and maintenance of life. In my July 15, 2026 podcast, I provided information about what must be included in the meals we provide for our pets in order for them to survive. I like to go a step further and add food that is nutritionally more beneficial to their diet so they can not only survive but thrive and live a happy and healthy life. Of course, hereditary and environmental factors can influence the expression of diseases. However, I believe healthy nutrition can stunt and even suppress the onset of these diseases.
In part one, I focused on the four main components humans, dogs and cats need to sustain life: protein, carbs, fat, water, vitamins and minerals. If the quality or quantity of any one of these components is substandard, health issues can arise. In this episode, I will explain how this leads to an inflammatory response, which leads to an imbalance in your immune system. I will also guide you through a process you can follow in order to make the best food choices for your dogs and cats.
Over 15 years ago, I had several appointments with Dr. Debbie Decker, a holistic vet in Westlake, Ohio, to give me professional advice on what to feed my cats. As I mentioned in part one, it was because of my cats that I started to look into finding out if it was the food that was making them vomit so often.
I also started to follow a nationally renown holistic vet, Dr. Karen Becker. She has a website with frequent articles about animals - focusing especially on cats and dogs. She wrote a book which I recommend, “ REAL FOOD For Healthy Dogs & Cats”. It fine-tunes the amounts of protein, organ meat and supplements needed to prepare a balanced homemade diet for your cat or dog. I chose to embark on the journey of making my own cat food with the help of Dr. Debbie Decker because of all of the symptoms they were experiencing.
Making your own food isn’t something you can just guess and make up as you go. Your pets have certain nutritional requirements that must be met or else metabolic issues can arise that can turn disastrous. Dogs have different requirements than cats. It is important to work with a vet who can best advise you on what and how much to feed your pet. I have simply outlined what has worked for my cats and dog, but your cat or dog may have specific health issues that require additional food groups and supplements.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
An Overview of Dog/Cat Nutrition
mercredi 15 juillet 2026 • Durée 42:41
Welcome to “From A Dog’s Eye View”. I’m your host Susan Coleman. Today I will be talking about a subject that overwhelms most pet parents - what to feed your dog or cat. As I am talking to you, I am sharing a power point presentation I prepared for my clients, created by Shih Ying-Fa.
This presentation will be divided into two separate podcasts. In part one, I will be sharing with you some history on how and when pet food started to be sold in stores, how it is processed, and what ingredients are mandated by the regulatory agency that oversees pet food manufacturers. In part two, which will be released in two weeks, I will help you make the best and most affordable decision on food for your dog or cat, which ingredients are healthy and which ones to avoid. I will also give you some suggestions and personal favorites, including what I feed my cat and dog.
I have to preface this presentation by disclosing that I am not a veterinarian or a certified pet nutrition specialist. However, I am a certified herbalist and can suggest herbs/supplements for various health conditions or for just maintaining optimal health.
While I was conducting my research (which is an ongoing process) about pet nutrition, it propelled me to research human food. I started looking at ingredients of the everyday food I was consuming and was shocked. I thought I was eating healthy, but I wasn’t. I took a class from a naturopath about how what we expose ourselves to, can directly affect our health. I learned about ways to use food and supplements as medicine and as an alternative to pharmaceuticals. I will share the supplements I currently give my cat and dog in part two of this presentation.
I recommend consulting a holistic or integrative veterinarian for professional advice when considering making any changes to your pet’s diet. It is wise to make sure your pet is in good health before making any drastic changes such as introducing new and/or raw food. I will briefly discuss the benefits of raw food and when and how to make that switch over. I will also provide names and contact info of two holistic vets in the Cleveland area. I have contacted both of them expressing my interest in having them as a guest, so hopefully in the near future I will be able to share their expertise.
So, let’s get started.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
Italian Greyhounds
mardi 9 juin 2026 • Durée 35:18
The Italian Greyhound, or Piccolo Levriere, is one of the oldest dog breeds in the world. Drawings of sighthounds resembling the modern day Italian Greyhound are found on Pompeiian frescoes dating back 2000 years. They are also painted on ancient Egyptian artwork from roughly 6000 years ago. They were bred to hunt hare and rabbits, but were kept mostly as a companion dog. They were popular amongst European royalty, including Queen Victoria and King Louis XIV.
Today, Italian Greyhounds are enjoyed by thousands in the United States and around the world. They have been recognized by the American Kennel Club since 1886 and their popularity as a family pet has grown in the last five years. They are true sighthounds, but are very content with being lap dogs, provided they get enough daily exercise. Sighthounds use their keen sense of sight, speed, and strong prey drive to hunt down small animals. Please refer to my podcast with Gary Flynn where we talk about different hunting dog breeds.
Italian Greyhounds are the smallest member of the sighthound family weighing between 7 and 14 lbs. Sighthounds include well known breeds such as Greyhounds, Whippets, Afghan Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds and Salukis. All of these breeds have bodies that are built for speed with long slender legs and deep chests. The Greyhound is the fastest dog breed in the world reaching speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. The Italian Greyhound can reach up to 35 mph. They look like cheetahs running through the savanna. Whereas the Greyhound is faster than the Italian Greyhound, its endurance is not as great.
My guest, Cheryl Bendik, is a proud pet parent of two Italian Greyhounds, Mia and Luna. Cheryl was intrigued by the breed when she met two of them who belonged to her son’s girlfriend at the time. She kept wanting to borrow them until her son convinced her to get her own. Cheryl contacted a breeder but had to wait quite some time for one. In the meantime, Cheryl decided to adopt one. As fate would have it, as soon as she adopted Luna, Mia was born two weeks later! Luna is a Beagle/Italian Greyhound mix. Her most noticeable feature is her floppy Beagle ears, but she has the body of an Italian Greyhound. Mia and Luna are eight months apart and have a very close bond. When they were little, they both loved to run around and zip in and out of each other looking like a chocolate and vanilla swirl ice cream cone.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
Dr. Randy Talks About Allergies and Arthritis
mardi 19 mai 2026 • Durée 37:15
It’s springtime and that means allergy season is in full swing! The emergence of budding leaves and flowers can cause great distress to humans and dogs alike. Whereas humans tend to have runny eyes and noses with a tickle in their throat, allergies tend to manifest differently in dogs. It is common for dogs to start itching, sometimes constantly, leaving them with abrasions, and feeling downright miserable. We’ll cover how to recognize the signs, what’s changed in treatment options, and the latest immunotherapy breakthroughs that are giving dogs real relief without the side effects of old-school steroids. My guest, Dr. Randy Hutchison has some solutions for allergy sufferers that can provide relief almost immediately.
The most common allergic reaction in dogs
Allergic reactions can be caused by the environment, fleas, or food allergies. The most common reaction to all of these culprits is itching. Dr. Randy states that the location of the itching is a good indicator as to what the cause is. For example, itching from flea bites caused by the saliva in fleas, is mostly found at the base of the tail. Dogs will tie themselves into pretzels to try to reach that area. You will notice they will try to bite back there with their little incisor teeth.
When dogs lick their feet a lot or itch their nose, face, and lower legs, this usually indicates something in their environment. In springtime, pollen from budding trees falls on the grass they walk and lay in. In the fall, there are certain weeds and molds on leaves. All of these outdoor elements can cause allergic reactions. Dr. Randy can almost predict to the day when clients will bring their dogs in because they started itching a lot. Once a dog has allergies, they almost always will for the rest of their life.
Allergic reactions don’t form after the initial exposure to an irritant. In fact, Dr. Randy says if a puppy comes in for an appointment due to itching, he can start a history of the dates of the itching, but can rule out allergies as a probable cause. It takes over a year or two of exposure to an irritant for the body to react. As time goes on, the length of the allergic reaction will be longer and more pronounced.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
Lumps and Bumps with Dr. Randy
mardi 5 mai 2026 • Durée 40:06
Have you ever been petting your dog and suddenly felt something — a lump, a bump, something that wasn’t there before? My returning guest, Dr. Randy Hutchison of Animal Clinic Northview, walks us through exactly what to do when that happens. From simple fatty lipomas to cancer diagnosis and cutting-edge immunotherapy treatments — this episode covers it all.
Improvements continue to be made in the rehabilitation department. Not all injuries require surgery. Animal Clinic Northview has a new and expanding rehab facility. Dr. Grace Schmeiser oversees canine patients in need of rehabilitation from arthritis discomfort, sports injuries and surgeries. Many different therapies are offered: acupuncture, shock wave therapy, laser therapy, and massages.
Dr. Randy also shares with us some new capabilities which improve the overall recovery process for canine patients. Animal Clinic Northview has equipped their ICU unit with central lines - an advanced way to administer medications quickly. They also reduce the stress and pain by allowing multiple treatments and drawing blood samples through one port.
Another improvement to the ICU is the addition of high flow oxygen. This provides more direct oxygen flow to canine patients via nasal cannulas who may be in respiratory distress. Oxygen can be delivered via these cannulas before, during, and after surgery. Patients can also receive oxygen via their state- of-the-art environmentally controlled Snyder oxygen cages. Recently, Dr. Randy shares with us how the high oxygen flow process aided in ensuring that a bulldog who came in for airway surgery received the appropriate amount of oxygen. He believes this accelerates the recovery process and promotes a swift recuperation.
Animal Clinic Northview employs a full time doctor, or hospitalist, whose sole responsibility is to oversee the ICU and make sure it runs efficiently. The ICU can accommodate up to 40 patients. This relieves the 34 veterinarians in the practice of checking in whenever they have a spare moment to visit their critically ill patients while also maintaining a heavy client workload. Having a hospitalist on duty is an excellent way to give the patients the attention they need. They also rely on the staff dedicated to working and assisting with cases that are admitted to the ICU. Dr. Randy says “From the technicians to the assistants to the kennel staff - they are really the heroes. They’re the ones that are in it minute by minute, hour by hour, taking care of these patients.”
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
Hunting Dogs - Part 2
mardi 14 avril 2026 • Durée 26:15
Regulated hunting in the United States is a safe activity enjoyed by over 14 million adults. The Ohio Department of Natural Resources recorded almost 400,000 paid hunting license holders. This number includes hunting of birds, small animals and deer. Regulations exist to preserve, protect and control wildlife populations. Hunting can bring communities together and help feed those in need. It is a skill that can be learned through hunting clubs and trusted family members.
In Part One of the Hunting Dogs podcast, my guest, Gary Flynn, shares stories about how he learned about the many facets of hunting from family members. Not all hunters use dogs, but Gary’s initiation to the world of hunting at a young age included neighborhood and family dogs to help in the process. He was able to witness how motivated a dog can become while pursuing their prey. He also experienced a “pecking order” amongst dogs gathered under a tree with a raccoon hanging on for dear life. Everyone knew which dog had the tenacity and skills to snatch the coon out of the tree. It helped Gary learn about individual and pack dog behavior.
Living at home versus living in kennels
Hunting dogs can live in the house with their humans. Gary can’t imagine not having his dogs live in his house. He trains them with obedience skills that are a necessity when out in the field. He also makes it a priority to teach them manners so he can socialize them inside hunting clubs and with guests coming to his house.
Many hunters will keep their dogs separate from social gatherings inside the clubs. They do not go to the extent that Gary does in socializing and training his dogs. Some are of the opinion that hunting dogs will not be effective hunters if they become family dogs. Some hunters prefer to board their dogs at kennels. It provides a safe environment for hunting breeds who like to run and roam over great distances. They will climb over fences and dig their way out of a common crate. These kennels are designed with secure slats that are impossible to bend and are cemented to the ground. The boarding staff is often trained on the specific traits of the different hunting breeds. They are also exercised daily so they stay in good shape in between hunts and during the off season.
Over the past 15 years as a dog trainer, there are hunting breeds I frequently see in my obedience classes and private home sessions. I work with a lot of doodles that have either Golden Retriever or Labrador Retriever combined with a poodle, as well as many from the terrier group. It is important to remember that all three of these breeds are hunting dogs by nature. There are also breeds I have never seen before. For example, the Black and Tan Coonhound, pictured on top of the video of the podcast above, the Plott Hound or the Mountain Cur. Regardless of the type of hunting dog you may have, it is highly recommended to fulfill their physical and mental needs in order to maintain a balanced dog.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
Hunting Dogs - Part 1
lundi 23 mars 2026 • Durée 35:04
Dogs come in all shapes and sizes. There are over 400 different breeds, but they all stem from the Canis Lupus Familiaris species - the literal translation from Latin to English meaning Dog Wolf Domestic. Different breeds were created to serve different functions for humans. For example, some were created to help farmers herd livestock back to their housing quarters. Others were developed to protect livestock from intruders. In this episode, Gary Flynn from The Dog Advocate and I will be focusing on hunting breeds.
It is difficult to quantify how many hunting dog breeds exist, however, they can be broken down into categories such as hounds, gun dogs, retrievers and terriers. They all have their specialties. The type of game you will be hunting will determine which breed you will choose. Gary is partial to German Shorthaired Pointers. They are highly intelligent, athletic and commonly known for hunting fowl. However, he has trained his dogs as versatiles: hunting fur and feathers. Gary recounts colorful stories in our podcast about hunting pheasants, turkeys, and small birds with his client’s and his own German Shorthaired Pointers. According to Gary:
“German Shorthaired Pointers stay locked in pursuit of the holy grail!”
When Gary is working with German Shorthaired Pointer puppies, their instinct to point already exists. He recounts how fun it is to observe a bunch of puppies who are all in point looking at a bubblegum wrapper, a bee, or anything that moves. This is not something that is taught. It is pure instinct. The puppies will learn as they mature to focus that instinct on birds or small animals. Pointing is how the dog communicates what is next. It is a pause before the pounce. If well trained, they will point exactly to what they found and wait for their handler to guide them to what comes next. It is a very intense and focused behavior, but Gary’s dogs will still obey commands while pointing.
When older dogs point in a group, one dog may be pointing at another dog that is pointing to even another dog who is pointing at the location of the animal. They form a chain of pointers. This is called “honoring”. The dogs who come onto the scene where a dog is in a point, respects that dog by waiting and not stealing the prey. This prevents premature pursuit of the prey and demonstrates the discipline required to avoid chaos and an inefficient hunt. As the hunters approach the group, they must assess what they have come upon. They are able to handle the situation without interference from the dogs.
This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit
Out of the 72 people in Ohio deployed by FEMA, only 4 dog handlers and their canines were chosen to go. Three of the four handlers were from OSDA (Gary’s search and rescue dog agency). The fourth handler, Terry Trepanier was a veteran firefighter and paramedic from Washington Township, shown in the picture below with his dog Woody. There were many more qualified people ready and willing to go serve, but were not chosen by the federal government to assist. FEMA plans for disasters similar to this and whatever they decide is not to be debated or contested. Gary talks about how much the love and support from those not selected to go was an immeasurable support system while being there.
FEMA requested that the canines to be deployed be live human finds only. Gary had a cadaver dog, Felix, fully trained and ready to go, but that was not what was needed from Ohio Task Force 1. There were Task Forces from other states who received the order for trained cadaver dogs. However, Gary’s dog Tascha, exhibited an aversive behavior whenever she would come across cadaver parts. She would shrug her body in such a way that it was almost an actual alert signal. Gary had specifically trained her to go past any cadavers and only focus on the live human scent.
Gary and Tascha worked 12 hour shifts, but it never ended at the 12th hour. If they were commanded to search a specific area of “the pile” (which was approximately 40 stories high) and they kept finding more openings within that pile to investigate, they did not quit just because their shift was up. They continued until there was no more area left to search . If it required to rappel blindly into a dark hole, then that’s what they did. Sending his dog in first with no leash and no collar to find survivors caused fear and anxiety that cannot be verbally described.
“I can tell you what it was like, but I have no way to tell you how it feels”
Gary Flynn
Gary and Tasha weren’t always working the pile. Sometimes they were commanded to search the surrounding buildings. A badly damaged structure assigned to Gary and Tascha was the Merrill Lynch Financial Center, pictured below. They had to climb 51 flights of stairs with no lights to guide them and search every inch for survivors. What they found was mostly plane pieces, cadavers, luggage and clothes. Gary says that the job always starts from the top on down, instead of the other way around. That way, when you are all done with the search, you can just exit the building.
One of my questions to Gary was about using protective gear for himself and his dog. Gary had all the protective gear needed for a toxic environment like the one at Ground Zero. He knew what he could be exposed to because he was a certified environmental hazard specialist. However, the protective gear got in the way when navigating through narrow passages with sharp objects all around. He wished he could have worn the gear all the time, but it wasn’t feasible.
Tasha did not wear any boots for her paws. She managed okay without them. She did endure a large burned area on her chest, not from direct fire, but from abrasions caused by squeezing in between and crawling through so much rubble. The wound healed up, but the fur never grew back. She lived until the ripe old age of 17. She was a cancer survivor on top of all that. It was too difficult to say that the cancer was due to her exposure to chemicals at Ground Zero, but living 13 years after the event is pretty astonishing!
Gary is beyond grateful to the Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams dispatched by FEMA to Ground Zero to provide medical care to the hundreds of search and rescue dogs on site. Tascha became dehydrated to the point where she needed to have intravenous fluids pumped into her. The VMAT teams provided the prompt assistance required to get Tascha back on her paws again.
Another question I asked Gary was if dogs experience PTSD. He believes they do but it is because those dogs were not properly trained or they were not the type of dog that could handle the stress from search and rescue work. Just like not all dogs make good service dogs, not all dogs are cut out to make effective search and rescue dogs. The stamina and prolonged self motivation required for this kind of work is not present in all dogs. The dogs who have been correctly trained succeed and love what they do. Their handlers reward them with play time whenever they can sneak in a few minutes of downtime. Sometimes, due to the tasks at hand, the only reward was their handler’s voice praising them. Other times, down time meant rest time. Catching a few Z’s had to be squeezed in there too!
Another amazing feature of the search and rescue dog is their ability to provide loving and caring support to their handlers and emergency staff members. Gary said there were plenty of them crying into their beloved dog’s fur. Dogs provide comfort that humans cannot. It’s just different.
Gary is eternally grateful to so many people, but most importantly, his wife and young daughter. Returning from any search and rescue mission is difficult to resume a normal routine, but coming back home from Ground Zero was especially challenging. The trauma of seeing so much death and destruction can make it hard to carry on. Gary encourages anyone experiencing trauma to seek help. PTSD manifests itself in so many disguising ways. Seeking professional help is crucial to learning how to resume mundane chores and a “normal” lifestyle. You want things to be the way they were, but it’s impossible when you have changed because of this traumatic event in your life.
I want to extend my humble and sincere gratitude to Gary for giving me the opportunity to talk about such an emotional subject. I feel deeply that our paths crossed at Petco because as fate would have it, one day I would have the platform for him to share his experience with all of you. So many people suffered, and sadly still suffer, from that sunny fall day 24 years ago that suddenly turned dark. Please be kind to all people. You don’t know what their story is.
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Ohio Geese Control exclusively uses Border Collies. A Border Collie’s work ethic, instinctual drive to herd but not hurt animals or birds, plus their intelligence, make them an ideal tool to use to effectively and humanely chase geese away. They also are structurally built to intimidate whatever they are herding. They stoop down low and possess a wolf-like glare that no other dog has. Geese instinctively view the dogs as predators causing them to want to fly away.
When Marci and Jeff assess a dog, an important instinct to search for is the right intensity of prey drive. To review a subject I have mentioned in previous podcasts, prey drive is a dog’s instinct to track, chase and capture moving objects or animals. Stalking, herding, and chasing animals (in this case, geese) away are optimal instincts in Border Collies to capitalize on. Sometimes, farmers are willing to relinquish their Border Collies who aren’t intense enough to herd farm animals. These types of dogs can be perfect for geese control. They are more apt to not be aggressive towards the geese. Marci and Jeff do not want the dog to catch, kill, or consume the geese.
A top priority of Ohio Geese Control is to keep the geese, dog, and members of the community they are servicing very safe. This is to be done with the utmost care to uphold their value as a company as a humane, safe and effective way to manage geese populations.
Ohio Geese Control’s mission is to create a healthier, happier environment for everybody who uses the outdoors. They want you to enjoy the outdoors and to embrace nature. All animals, including the geese, have every right to be a part of that experience. OGC employees must respect the animals and birds whose territory they are entering by avoiding actions that threaten or harm them. However, geese can become a nuisance when they are aggressively protecting their nests and when their droppings are in our paths as we are out and about in nature.
One single goose can produce a pound and a half of dropping per day!
OGC may be successful in employing one of their strategies, such as their dogs, to successfully deter the geese from settling and staying in a particular area. They also may use a combination of strategies. Several ways to humanely and effectively chase geese away are:
* using Border Collies
* building fencing around the property where geese have settled
* laying down wire lines over the water source
* placing decoys such as fake coyotes on the property
* using lights and green laser pointers recognized by the geese as a threat - especially useful when working with geese that have settled on rooftops of businesses.
* operating remote controlled boats on the water
* using EPA approved geese repellents made with food grade ingredients
In order to be successful at dissuading geese from settling amongst inconvenient places, it is necessary to know their behavior, reproductive cycle and migration patterns. Some fun facts about Canada geese are:
* They mate for life
* A group of geese is called a gaggle
* They molt, or lose their flight feathers, typically during the month of July and cannot fly during that time
* They migrate to warmer climates in the fall and return to their place of birth in the spring
* Resident geese stay on the property and do not migrate
* Their lifespan is approximately 20 years
* They lay approximately 2-8 eggs over a period of several days each spring with an incubation period of about 26 days
OGC must have safety protocols in place when working with geese. Canada geese like other birds in the wild, can carry diseases through their droppings. Salmonella, E. coli, Listeria, and the bird flu can be contracted by humans and dogs. According to Marci, the bird flu has become more prevalent in recent years. It is transferred from bird to bird through the droppings or saliva. When a large group of geese are together in an area, there is more chance of spreading the bird flu if the flock is exposed. Therefore, using the dogs to disperse the flock is a very effective way to decrease the likelihood of the bird flu settling and spreading to the other geese.
After the handler and dog have worked an area, they must sanitize their car, the crates used to transport the dogs and their shoes. They also must rinse the dogs’ pads with soap and water. They recommend having a set of shoes specifically for this work that are left at the front door and then enter their house. The handlers are also instructed to not touch or move an injured or dead bird since they may be suffering from any one of the diseases mentioned. Instead, it is advised to call a wildlife center for further instructions such as Lake Erie Nature & Science Center (440-871-2900) or The Ohio Division of Wildlife Customer Service Center at (1-800-WILDLIFE).
An abundance of goose droppings can pollute soccer fields, ponds, and parks. Discourage your dog from eating the feces. If they do ingest enough of the droppings, they can get very sick from the bacteria and parasites in the droppings. If your dog does eat the droppings and starts to become lethargic, vomit and/or has diarrhea, call your veterinarian.
Once geese settle in an area, they will not leave on their own, They must be encouraged to leave. If there is a food and water source and they have been there for a period of time, there is no reason for them to leave. There has to be some tactic to push them along, and most likely a dog will be the best tactic.
OGC can dramatically lower the population within two weeks, sometimes, almost immediately, but they always come back. When a client hires OGC, it is an ongoing service. They can work an area 2-3 times per day to make sure there are no droppings. If they see droppings, but no geese, the handlers will know that the geese have been there. Therefore, they have to change up the time of day they visit the property. They may also change up their entrance to the area. What makes it tricky for the handlers is the geese get to know their cars, their uniforms, even their faces! The geese may leave once they see the handlers and dogs, but Marci prefers that the dogs chase them away instead of the handlers.
Before Ohio Geese Control recently hired a dog trainer, Marci and Jeff worked together to train the dogs and their handlers to teach the dogs the commands they need to follow while working. When working with the dogs, Marci and Jeff discovered that the dogs also train each other. It is instinctual to have the dogs work in pairs as they navigate the movement of the geese.
It is crucial to have very obedient dogs. Their life could depend on it. When the handler tells them “Lie Down”, they must lie down amongst the distractions of not only the geese but also any pedestrians walking by and watching. Sometimes when Marci and Jeff are working with new dogs, they may assess them for up to six months before they deem them appropriate for this type of work. If they don’t fit into their pack, they will send them back a better-trained dog that will be able to adjust to a family life.
Some of the commands include:
* “Come By” - to move around the geese in a clockwise direction
* “Away to Me” - to move around the geese in a counter-clockwise direction
* “Here” - to come back to the handler
* “That’ll do” - to stop working and come back to the handler
* “Lie Down” - to stop immediately and drop to the ground
* “Walk Up” - to move closer or forward directly toward the geese
* “Ch ch ch” - to encourage the geese to walk not fly away when they hear this sound and move in the opposite direction
Another big part of having success at removing a gaggle of geese is to train the handlers. Everyone who is hired by OGC must go through a training period with a mentor. The length of time depends on how well they are adapting to the dog and the dog is adapting to them. During this mentoring period, safety of themselves, the dog, the geese, the goslings and the public are stressed. Sometimes the public is concerned that the geese are getting hurt when the dogs herd them and chase them away. The employees must be proficient in appropriate ways to answer questions like this.
Handlers will shadow a mentor for the first couple of weeks. Then the mentor shadows the employee for two weeks to make sure the handler and the dog are working together efficiently and effectively. When OGC hires mentors for the handlers, one of the first modules of training they go through is cultural training, The managers must lead the handlers in a way that is not condescending or belittling when mistakes are made.
Every OGC dog will work with four different people. The reason for this is everyone has a little different style and different energy. Their everyday handler may be indisposed and have to work with a different handler. Even though the handlers use the same commands listed above, the dogs must be adaptable and obedient with each person’s body language, delivery of commands, and reward methods.
The preferred method of rewarding the dogs can be achieved by verbally praising the dogs through the handlers voice and body language. All dogs need to continue to be motivated. Remember, these dogs are working dogs. Their biggest reward is to herd and chase the geese away. That is more valuable than a treat!
OGC strives to train their employees to be the leader of their dog. Border Collies are the smartest breed of dogs and the handlers need to stay one step ahead of them when communicating with them so as not to be taken advantage of. When dealing with highly intelligent and motivated dogs such as the Border Collie, draining their mental energy is just as important as draining their physical energy. If they are not provided with an outlet to do so, they will create their own jobs (not in a positive way) and even become destructive. Marci says the type of presence that is necessary in each handler is not to dominate the dog, but they must be respected as the dog’s leader and remain obedient to them.
“Our dogs are so smart that if they knew how to drive a car, we wouldn’t need handlers!” - Marci Hower
Ohio Geese Control has consistently been voted by their employees as a top 10 place to work in pest control in the state of Ohio. Marci and Jeff have 100 employees, but they feel like they are all family to them because they have a lot in common: they are easygoing, love nature, love dogs and love their work. OGC has an employee engagement program where they arrange events so the employees can meet each other and share stories about working with their dogs. They plan pizza parties, a Dog Olympics day, where the dogs compete for the best goose chaser, and fundraisers. OGC even has a big goose mascot!
For more information about OGC, please visit their website at: ohiogeesecontrol.com. They also can be found on Facebook and Instagram.
Once again, I have to say that dogs are amazing beings in so many ways. When dogs have jobs to do, such as in this case, chasing geese away, their lives are enriched and fulfilled. This leads to a more balanced dog because their needs of exercise, discipline and affection are being provided for by their handlers. Plus, an added bonus - their cuteness!!
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I remember making the switch from processed dry food, or kibble, to homemade food for my cats. I felt overwhelmed to the point where I almost gave up. I knew if I gave up, I would most likely have to deal with all the puke again! That was a big motivator for me to continue the transition. Another driving force to make the switch was learning that I can control the quality of meat I purchase that will be fed to my pets. When you purchase any kibble, unless it is labeled as “human grade”, the meat used is generally sourced from animals or animal parts that have been deemed unsuitable for human consumption under USDA regulations.
A disclaimer reminder - I am not a veterinarian or a nutritionist. The information below is a result of my research and experience transitioning my cats and dogs to a more balanced, species appropriate diet.
Let’s begin!
In part one, I ended the episode describing the importance of healthy fatty acids. I mentioned that in order to preserve the integrity of the fats, proper storage is critical. Oxidation occurs when food substances are exposed to oxygen. For example, bananas oxidize as they ripen. When you cut into a banana, the end exposed to the air will turn brown. It actually has a different taste to it.
Oxidation in pet foods causes:
* the quality of nutrients to degrade
* the foods with fatty acids to become rancid - can produce a distinct foul smell
* the development of molds and mycotoxins - dogs can pick up on the scent of molds that we cannot see or smell and may refuse their food
* insect infestations which can cause allergic reactions
Mixed tocopherols are added by pet food manufacturers to slow down the oxidation process. They are a natural form of Vitamin E. Natural tocopherols are safe and beneficial to your pet. Whereas chemical preservatives like BHA and BHT are artificial. You will see tocopherols, BHA and BHT as an ingredient on the bag or box of food for your pet. As I stated before, I prefer to provide food that doesn’t have either one of these preservatives.
Solutions to avoiding oxidation in pet food
* Store food in its original bag off the floor and inside an airtight container
* Store food for only 2-3 weeks
* Store the remainder in freezer bags in your freezer
* Look for a “Best Before” date on the unopened bag
* Don’t force your pet to eat the food if he or she refuses, especially if you have left the food uncovered overnight
* Maintain a consistent feeding schedule with your dog or cat. If they don’t eat all the food in one sitting, cover and refrigerate it. Avoid leaving out a dish of unfinished kibble
Foods Never to Feed Your Pet
* Onions - can cause anemia
* Raisins and grapes - can lead to kidney failure
* Macadamia nuts - toxic to pets
* Chocolate, especially dark chocolate - contains caffeine and theobromine which can cause heart issues. This warrants a call or more likely an emergency visit to the vet if ingested.
* Brewer’s yeast - can be allergenic
* Fish high in mercury and raw fish - be aware of bones that can pose a choking hazard. Fried and/or seasoned fish is not healthy.
The quantity of any one of these ingredients and the weight of your pet are really the key factors in these foods to avoid. If you have a medium to large sized dog, a few onions, grapes, raisins, or a milk chocolate candy bar are no reason to panic and rush your pet to the vet.
Reasons Not to Give Your Dog Peanut Butter
* Contains aflatoxins - naturally occurring mycotoxins, produced by the fungus Aspergillus, which causes cancer.
* Contains harmful fats - hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated oils (trans-fatty acids ) which cause inflammation. This is explained in more detail in the next few slides.
* Contains sugar - make sure NO xylitol is present
* Peanuts are a legume*
*Legumes are plants with a pod, i.e. dry beans, peas, chickpeas, lentils, lupine and soybeans. They contain phytates and lectins which carnivores cannot break down due to a lack of the enzyme phytase. Phytates bind with minerals like zinc, iron, calcium, and magnesium and leech them out of a pet’s body.
Just as in the foods to avoid above, it’s the dosage and size of your pet that matters. I used to give my Corgi peanut butter on a daily basis until I figured out that it caused him to vomit. Now, I just recommend almond butter to be on the safe side. A healthy alternative to peanut butter is almond butter. Almonds are a great source of Omega 3’s and a healthy fat. Almond butter is high in fat which can trigger stomach upsets or pancreatitis if given in large amounts. It can be a healthy way to help an underweight dog gain weight when fed in moderation.
Controversial Additives in Pet Food and Treats
* BHA/BHT - an antioxidant added to oils and fats to prevent oxidation. BHA has been classified as a possible carcinogen by several major health organizations. More research is needed to confirm this.
* Carrageenan - derived from specific seaweeds that may cause and induce inflammation.
* Natural Flavors - could be anything derived from plants, animals or mined sources. Always creating suspicion. However, they have to be deemed safe in order to be added to pet food.
* TBHQ - a fat preservative to increase shelf life. Used as a stabilizer for explosive compounds and to make varnishes, lacquers, and resins.
* Propylene Glycol - added to preserve moisture content. The FDA has banned it in cat food but not dog food yet.
* Propyl Gallate - a preservative which may be able to mimic the negative effects of the female hormone, estrogen. More research is necessary.
* Ethoxyquin - a chemical preservative with limited allowable uses in pet food and animal feed as an antioxidant to prevent fats and fish meal from going rancid.
** MSG is listed on the slide but I have never seen it as an ingredient in dog food or treats.
Inflammation
Inflammation is a body’s natural way to respond to infections, injuries, or ingested food and fluids. If left unchecked, it can cause long term health issues. There is acute inflammation, which is a short term injury, like a sprained ankle, that can heal back to its original state in a reasonable time. There is also chronic inflammation, which causes constant, longterm symptoms such as fatigue, mood changes, joint stiffness, digestive issues, and skin rashes.
Factors contributing to chronic inflammation:
* Incorrect choices of food for a particular species
Another reminder that the dosage of each one of these inflammatory foods for pets and the size of the pet must be taken into account.
Immune System and Gut Health
All living beings have an immune or defense system which varies amongst species. Our gut health is comprised of the stomach, small and large intestines. It is a complex system of good and bad bacteria. It regulates digestion, produces and metabolizes vitamins, and protects the body from infection. When the immune system is working properly and fighting off infections and foreign invaders, the result is a body functioning like a well oiled machine. We all have both good and bad bacteria in our gut, but the good is supposed to ward off the onset of the proliferation of bad bacteria. Even with an optimal balance of good and bad bacteria, we will have an immunological response to diseases that we contract from our environment. Our bodies will fight that disease until the body heals and is restored to health. It’s when our bodies are constantly in a deficit of good bacteria that we may experience digestive issues, illnesses and a degradation of our overall health.
Causes of a Compromised Immune System
* Nutrition - an unbalanced diet in protein, fat, and carbohydrates
* Environment - toxins in the household, pesticides, cigarette smoke, plastics
* Emotional - fight or flight response
* Antibiotics, steroids, vaccinations, and other pharmaceuticals
Solutions for Maintaining a Healthy Immune System
* Transition to a more balanced, species appropriate diet of either fresh or raw food
* Introduce a high quality probiotic - a wide variety of different strains of bacteria
* Reduce environmental exposure to toxins - stay off of chemically treated lawns
* Reduce stress - a lot easier said than done
Benefits of a Balanced Diet
* Healthier cells - ability to fight off disease
* Healthier brains
* Stronger hearts
* Keeps extra weight off - quantity of food I feed my cat vs canned food
* Reduced chance of common health issues
* Reduced expression of genes that promote inflammation
* Lower risk of cancer
What to Look For When Choosing a Good Quality Kibble and Treats
When looking for the best, most affordable food for your dog or cat, consult www.dogfoodadvisor.com. This website was founded by a dentist, Dr. Mike Sagman, in 2008 after he lost his dog to the effects of poor quality commercial dog food. He retired in 2023 but sold his information and website to Wag! They have reviewed over 5,000 brands of dog food and rated them based on a 5 star system. They will highlight controversial ingredients and advise of any recalls on a particular brand in Canada and the United States.
When reading the ingredients of any dog or cat food, always look at the first five ingredients. They make up the largest portion of the food and are present in the greatest amounts. If there is “ chicken/turkey/lamb meal” as a top ingredient, this means that the meat has been rendered to the point where it is like a powder. The moisture and fat have been removed from the process.
Treats are just as important as the kibble. Look for single ingredient treats like dehydrated salmon, chicken or beef. Stay away from hard treats that are made with wheat. There are gluten free hard treats. Small shaped bones are easy to handle for training purposes but they may have no nutritional value. They also may contain mystery meat: “Meat and Bone Meal”. Whenever you see this as an ingredient in treats or dog/cat food, stay away from it. You don’t know what kind of meat it is.
Please keep in mind:No Dairy, No Corn, No Soy, No Legumes, and No Wheat.
Rice is a common ingredient and is frequently listed among the first five ingredients in many dog foods. Rice is a starch and a complex carbohydrate. This means that when our bodies process it, it turns into sugar. It can provide energy when broken down by the body. However, yeast consumes the sugar and if the sucrose is consumed in great amounts, it can cause yeast infections. I covered this briefly in part one when I listed symptoms caused by certain foods. The excess yeast can cause itchy skin, yeasty ear infections, and Frito smelling paws.
Some people think that brown rice is healthier for dogs than white rice. In my opinion, no matter what the color, rice is still a carbohydrate. As I mentioned before, dog and cat food are already high in carbohydrates. When rice is listed among the first five ingredients, it further increases the carbohydrate content of the food. I add peas and rice as ingredients to the five listed above to avoid when selecting a dog or cat food.
How I Finally Settled on a Diet for Ebi
When I brought Ebi home, I knew she was going to be over 100 lbs. That’s where I drew the line. I wasn’t going to cook and prepare 5-6 cups of food twice a day for her. I first tried to give Ebi Bil-Jac dog food. That’s what the breeder fed her Mom while she was pregnant. I had such great luck with it with Hank, my Corgi, that I gave it a shot with Ebi. To my surprise, I noticed that Ebi’s poop wasn’t as firm as it should be. It wasn’t mushy - it just wasn’t able to be picked up without leaving a schmear of it on the grass. I made sure she was tested for any parasites just in case that was causing her poop not to be firm. The tests were negative for parasites, so I figured it was something in the food.
The proof is in the poop!💩
I then switched to a different kibble. I liked that food because it has ancient gluten free grains in it. However, Ebi started having digestive issues. She was spitting up bile and sometimes the whole food that never got digested. That was too reminiscent of Hank’s symptoms, so I consulted Dr. Debbie Decker, a local holistic vet, for advice. She suggested The Honest Kitchen and that is what Ebi has been on for the past 6 years. I change up the protein for variety. Her diet is below. She has been very healthy (knock on wood) for 8 years and we hope to get many more years out of her! I owe part of that to her breeder and the other part to her diet.
Transitioning to New or Raw Food
A very important thing to remember when changing foods is to take at least 7-10 days to slowly transition from the old to the new food. As you slowly introduce a little of the new food, subtract that same little amount from the old. Do this for two days. If no stomach issues arise, increase a little more of the new and take away the same amount of the old. Continue this over a period of a week to 10 days until there is no longer any old food in your dog or cat’s meal.
“Start Low, Go Slow” - Dr. Karen Becker, DVM
Follow this same transition regimen if switching to raw food. However, there are guidelines to follow depending on the age and health of the cat or dog. It is strongly advised to seek the guidance of an integrative or holistic vet with experience in introducing raw food. Older pets have difficulty changing from a processed diet to a raw diet. Their digestive systems are used to digesting the processed diet. Cats are that much more challenging. It took me a lot of patience and time when I transitioned all of my cats over to a raw and cooked, prepared diet. I almost gave up. It took many days just to add a teaspoon of raw egg to their meat! Cats actually prefer cooked eggs as opposed to raw eggs.
Once you have successfully transitioned to the new food, you can change up the protein source to provide some variety to your pet’s food. For example, if you are feeding a kibble that has chicken and sweet potatoes, switch to another protein like beef and rice, as long as your dog doesn’t have any sensitivities to different proteins. If you stay in the same line of food, there should be no need to transition to the new protein source.
The Formula to Calculate How Many Calories to Give Your Cat or Dog:
Vets will frequently recommend gently cooked meats, mostly chicken, and rice after bouts of diarrhea. I prefer to use cooked white ground turkey and pumpkin - a no starch diet. White turkey is the easiest to digest. The pumpkin should be without any seasoning - organic is preferred. One teaspoon to one tablespoon of pumpkin for every 10 lbs of body weight is recommended. Start out small so you can add to the amount if needed. This is the easiest diet for the dog or cat to digest when rehabbing a sensitive stomach. To calculate how many calories your dog should consume to maintain their weight is:
Weight of dog/cat in kg (divide pounds by 2.2) X 30 + 70 = Total calories/day
For example, my dog Ebi weighs 110 lbs. (52.2 kg) X 30 + 70 = approx. 1,570 calories per day. I will adjust that depending on her activity level that day.
If I wanted Ebi to lose weight, I would use the same formula, but plug in the desired weight. For example, if I wanted her to lose 5 pounds, the formula would be: 105 lbs (48 kg) X 30 + 70 = 1,502 calories or a reduction of 68 calories. It is highly recommended to measure and count calories. Maintaining a healthy weight can also help your pet live a longer, healthier life. Please consult a vet when helping your dog lose weight. Cats cannot lose weight quickly due to their biological makeup. A vet must be consulted to ensure a safe and slow way to lose weight.
What I Feed My Dog, Ebi (110 lbs.)
Morning:
* 2 cups The Honest Kitchen dehydrated food (either grain free beef, chicken or turkey)
* 1/2 cup cooked ground meat (beef, turkey, chicken, or lamb with 1/4 tsp added salt) cooked in either olive oil or coconut oil. This is omitted on sardine day.
* ¼ cup of beef or chicken bone broth (low sodium of 8%) or Goat Milk
* On alternating days, 3 egg yolks with 2-3 sardines with skin and bones (depending on the size). Canned salmon with skin and bones can replace sardine day. I give Ebi the inner membrane peeled off of each egg shell for the benefit of its natural glucosamine.
* Supplements: A probiotic for the immune system, a glucosamine and chondroitin, a Yeast/Fungal Detox to counter all the carbs in the food, and an Omega-3 for healthy fur/skin. I can push the pill size capsules into the Honest Kitchen and then sprinkle the probiotic on top. Dr. Decker recommends placing the supplements in treats if your cat or dog won’t take them in their food.
Evening:
* 2 cups The Honest Kitchen dehydrated food
* 1/2 cup cooked ground meat
* ¼ cup beef or chicken bone broth or Goat Milk
* Supplements: glucosamine and chondroitin, Yeast Fungal Detox and Omega-3
Socks ( 9 lb. cat)
Morning:
* 1/3 cup cooked ground meat (beef, turkey, or chicken with added salt)
* 2 teaspoons raw organ meat (homemade from chicken gizzards, hearts and liver ground up by food processor)
Regardless of the dog food you choose, always follow the guidelines above in the “What to Look For When Choosing a Kibble and Treats” section when selecting a food within your budget. It is so difficult to find a kibble that doesn’t have rice, chickpeas, lentils or peas in it. Legumes are cheap crops for food manufacturers to procure and contribute to the high carbohydrate content that can cause health issues in dogs and cats. Even the top of the line dog and cat food will include them in some of their recipes. I recommend searching for that recipe and remember to:
READ THE LABEL, READ THE LABEL, READ THE LABEL!
I even go as far as telling people to read the ingredients label every time you purchase your dog or cat’s food. Food manufacturers will add or omit certain ingredients without announcing it to the public. Remember from Part One, the AAFCO does not enforce real strict rules when considering which ingredients to add or remove from dog or cat food. In 2024, the FDA has been working towards a more structured regulatory scheme with the AAFCO to be fully overseen by FDA.
Some of My Suggestions of Dog Food (in random order)
* Lotus - baked kibble with human grade ingredients
* Bil-Jac - slow-cooked, vacuum drying method. No need to transition.
* Farmina - kibble with ancient gluten free grains
* Lake Erie Pet Food - local company with home delivery
* +Primal - raw dehydrated and frozen
* Northwest Naturals - raw dehydrated and frozen
* Stella and Chewy - raw dehydrated and frozen
* A Pup Above - frozen fresh prepared meals. no need to transition.
* The Honest Kitchen - real Whole Foods gently dried to remove moisture while locking in nutrients. No need to transition.
* Open Farm - prepared frozen meals. No need to transition.
Contact Info for Recommended Holistic Vets in the Greater Cleveland Area
* “REAL FOOD For Healthy Dogs & Cats” by Dr. Karen Becker
* “Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet” by Steve Brown
I am always amazed when I browse the pet store aisles at how many new foods are available and new ways that the food is processed. There are so many more options for frozen fresh foods today than ever before. This can be a great option for either daily or occasional feedings. You don’t have to slowly transition to them since they are fresh, real food.
I realize that my suggestions of food are on the pricey side. Beware that all of the food manufacturers listed above have recipes that include ingredients that may be deemed safe for consumption but not necessarily the ingredients that are biologically appropriate for your pet. This is why reading the label and being aware that certain ingredients can cause adverse symptoms is so important. Your dog or cat may do just fine on a processed kibble. It ultimately is an experiment to find the brand of food that agrees with your pet without symptoms.
Just because a food is not on my recommended list, doesn’t mean that I wouldn’t recommend it. Hopefully I have empowered you to make a more educated decision on which food you think is best for your budget. Always seek the advice of an integrative or holistic veterinarian when making changes to your pets’ diet. I am also happy to provide a nutrition consultation. My number is below.
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How To Select the Best Food For Your Pet and Why It is So Important
With so many dog and cat food brands available, choosing the right one can feel overwhelming. When talking about pet food, I feel it is important to make people aware of the following:
* the evolution of the dry food many of us feed our pets
* the regulatory commission that overseas the pet food manufacturers
* how a dog and cat’s anatomy determines what they should consume
* ingredients to avoid
* ingredients that are beneficial
My Mission
My goal is to increase your awareness of the importance of making healthy food choices for your pet so that they can not only live, but also thrive on the food you give them.
My Motivation
My presentation also addresses some cat nutrition since it was due to my cats and dog at the time that propelled me to research this broad and confusing subject. I had four cats (one is not pictured) and a dog who were all having symptoms. My cats were throwing up frequently and one of them was actually pulling out his fur because he itched so much. My dog, Hank the Corgi, would have intermittent bouts of throwing up bile and sometimes undigested kibble. Hank also would have diarrhea that didn’t even resemble diarrhea. I was getting very tired of picking up puke!
When and Why I Changed What I Feed My Pets
Every one of my pets were tested by a veterinarian for parasites and several health conditions that could cause some of these symptoms. They were all under 5 years old and every single test came back clear and free of disease. I was beginning to think that these symptoms were normal. I asked if it was food related, but I never got a definitive answer.
It was around this time, in 2016, that I started working at Petco as a dog trainer. The first question I asked the manager was “With all of the food in this store, what is the best food for my dog and cats?” The manager directed me to the aisle where the highest quality (supposedly) of food was. I tried one on Hank and within days, he had the absolute worst gas you could imagine. I know some of you listening can relate to this! There was something in that food that did not agree with Hank. This doesn’t mean that every dog who consumes that brand of food will have gas. It just means that it didn’t agree with my dog.
My life was about to change as far as what I would ultimately feed my cats and dog. There was a mandatory meeting for all of us Petco employees.with a rep from Bil-Jac dog food. The rep started describing symptoms that dogs can have that may be related to the food they eat. He asked if anyone was experiencing these symptoms with their dog. I immediately raised my hand and told the rep he was describing my dog Hank’s symptoms to the “T”.
The rep gave us some samples of food and told us that Bil-Jac is one of the rare baked dog foods on the market that you don’t have to take 10 days to transition your dog to. It is due to the lower temperature the food is baked as compared to the standard kibble most pet parents feed their dogs. You can start feeding your dog Bil-Jac dog food for their next meal and they won’t have any stomach upsets. I was too nervous to transition immediately. Instead, Hank was switched over to Big-Jac within 3 days. All of his symptoms disappeared! I must emphasize that I am referring to Bil-Jac dog food sold in a bag, not the frozen kind.
After seeing how Hank improved, it confirmed to me that there was something in the food that did not agree with him. I just couldn’t believe that dog and cat food manufacturers would put ingredients in their food that pets can’t even digest! Why don’t they have the pets well-being in mind when formulating the recipe? Hence, my extensive research and discoveries that I am sharing with you.
It got me thinking that maybe there are things in human food that make us not feel well too. I decided to get an appointment with a naturopath right down the street from me named Dr. Jane Semple. I thought I was eating healthy, but Dr. Semple recommended I start keeping track of the food I typically ate and to look up the sugar content of every item. I was shocked! It was about 3 times the daily amount one should have.
I was convinced that food really does matter. If I noticed my dog’s symptoms clearing up and even my own symptoms, there is something to say about “We are what we eat”. My mistake was trusting that food manufacturers prioritize our health and well-being over profit.
Since then, I believe pet parents can always feed their dog or cat something better than what they are conveniently giving them. It can never hurt. Real food is better than processed food. However, homemade diets need professional supervision. A lack in vitamins and minerals can cause serious health issues if you don’t know exactly what you are doing.
In part two, I will provide resources to help guide you if you decide to transition your pet to a healthier diet. I will also share with you what I currently give my dog and cat. They are both in very good health in their senior years. We all want our pets around a lot longer than their life expectancy. If feeding them healthier food makes that possible, then why not make some changes now?
The symptoms listed on this next slide and below can be attributed to underlying health conditions that are not necessarily due to dietary reasons. This is why it is highly recommended to be under the care of a veterinarian. Please refer to the podcast with Dr. Randy from Animal Clinic Northview dated May 19, 2026, “Allergies and Arthritis”. Not all allergies are food related. There can be a hereditary and/or environmental factor. Your vet can help identify the root and possible remedies. Regardless of the root of the symptoms your pet is having, it is always a good thing to give them the best food possible.
Symptoms of Food Sensitivities/Inflammation
* Itchy, flaky skin - you can see dandruff in their fur/indicates dry skin due to difficulty digesting certain ingredients in food and/or lack of healthy fats
* Hot spots - areas that have been itched so much they form sores
* Loose stools - formed but not firm or just downright mushy
* Gurgling stomach sounds - sometimes accompanied by vomiting or loose stools
* Vomiting - sometimes blown up kibble, digested food, or bile
* Gas - silent but deadly!
* Ear infections - can be caused by floppy ears that don’t get aired out/too many carbs in diet
* Eye discharge - difficulty digesting certain ingredients in food or quality of water
* Sneezing fits - same as eye discharge
* Lackluster fur (matted fur, pulling fur out) - does not shine/coarse
* “Frito” paws - pads of paws smell like fritos/yeast overgrowth
* Halitosis/gingivitis and other dental issues - can indicate dysbiosis of gut bacteria
* Stiff, arthritic joints - certain foods can cause inflammation of the joints like unhealthy fats
* Lack of energy - lack of healthy nutrition affects energy level
History of the Pet Food Industry
To fully understand the importance of selecting the appropriate food for your pet, it is helpful to explore the history of how pet food came into being, and how we transitioned from feeding table scraps to relying on commercially produced pet food sold in stores. We have to remember that pet ownership prior to World War II was utilitarian, meaning dogs had jobs to do on the farm and cats were used to keep mice out of the barns. Pets primarily lived outdoors and were given leftover table scraps and some canned foods. During WWII, tin and metal were rationed which severely impacted the canned food industry. This became an impetus for developing dry dog and cat food that I will be referring to as kibble.
Manufacturers partnered with cereal makers who had already invented shelf stable food. This was the optimal collaboration for pet food manufacturers to eventually mass produce kibble and meet the demand of the growing population of pet owners.
Soon after the war, during the late 40s and early 50s, people and their pets started to migrate to the suburbs and pet ownership started to increase. The demand for more convenient ways to feed their pets was also increasing. It is very easy to open a bag of dog or cat food and pour it into a dish for our pets. As I will be demonstrating in this presentation, convenience isn’t always the answer to a long and healthy life.
The Pet Food Industry
Today, the pet food industry is a booming business. Since 1994, sales have increased $2 to $3 billion dollars each year. As of 2025, $69.3 billion were spent on pets, of which 1/3 of it was spent on food. Of course, pet food manufacturers want to get on the band wagon to profit from this ever growing business. This means cutting corners on the cost of certain ingredients to increase profit. These shortcuts do not necessarily keep your pet’s health in mind. Certain ingredients, additives, and the process of making kibble drastically reduce the nutritional benefits. I will be detailing ingredients to avoid in part two of this podcast so that you can make the best decisions when choosing pet food.
After the war, the rendering process was developed. This is when by-products from the human food industry is recycled and used for other things. Pet food manufacturers take advantage of these products. They are cheap and readily available. Remember: these are not human grade ingredients. They are rejects from the human food supply. If the food is so contaminated, we have to trust that the USDA will regulate the manufacturers to destroy it. Otherwise, it can be used for pet food. This may include meat that doesn’t meet aesthetic standards, or internal organs or other parts that normally are not used for human food. You don’t quite know what your pet is eating. I highly recommend human grade food for this reason.
If you don’t recognize an ingredient on the label, there’s a good chance it’s not something your pet should be eating.
Understanding the Kibble Manufacturing Process
The process of creating a kibble by mixing ingredients together and forcing it through an extruder to form the kibble shape is called extrusion. A picture of an extruder is on this slide in the powerpoint presentation. The kibble is then baked at least at 400 degrees. There are several problems with extruded kibble, such as:
* mixing all the ingredients into a dough like substance makes it easier to disguise its quality.
* starch must be added so the kibble retains its shape. Starch makes the kibble harder to digest.
* fatty acids are added after the baking process in order to preserve the integrity of the fats. Kibble becomes rancid because of the added sprayed on fat within 3 weeks, if not properly stored.
* baking the kibble at such a high temperature decreases the nutritional benefits of essential vitamins and minerals.
* moisture levels required for healthy pets are very low. This is especially important in regards to cats.
Who Regulates the Pet Food Industry?
The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is the pet food regulator for the sale and distribution of pet food and drugs. It is separate from the FDA and USDA. It is a non-profit organization that establishes the nutritional standards, ingredient definitions, and labeling guidelines for pet and animal feed in the United States. Its members consist of local, state and federal regulatory officials, and even some veterinarians. It does not test, approve, certify, or regulate the food itself.
On every package of dog and cat food, you will find listed:
* Ingredients
* Guaranteed Analysis - the breakdown in percentages of protein, fat, fiber, moisture, and sometimes taurine (a non-essential amino acid).
* Calorie content
* A statement that it is AAFCO approved
* Recommended serving size according to weight
The AAFCO does not require a standard for the types of ingredients that the manufacturers can and cannot put in their food. In fact, if an ingredient’s quantity is less than 2% of the total ingredients, it is not obligated to list that as an ingredient. In other words, your cat or dog may have a reaction to a particular brand of dog food, but not another one with the same ingredients. It is possible that an ingredient which is 2% or less is causing the symptoms. The vet may even recommend changing foods. Veterinarians can conduct an extensive allergy test concentrating on different proteins. This is what commonly causes allergic reactions.
Dietary Requirement Differences Between Humans, Dogs, and Cats
Humans are omnivores. This means we consume a variety of food from both animals and plants. We get our nutrients from protein, carbohydrates, fiber, fats, minerals, vitamins, and water. Most of us get our food from the grocery store where everything is packaged and sold to us. We have to make decisions on how much and what we consume. Dogs and cats depend on us to make those decisions. There are some very picky cats and dogs, but in my experience, most dogs eat anything! Cats are the ones that are more picky.
Dogs are scavenging carnivores. If left to fend for themselves in the outside world, they would hunt and eat mostly fish and animals. However, they also can manage to digest and derive nutrition from plant material. They can consume a vet recommended vegetarian diet in order to resolve some kind of health issue, but this should only be temporary. In addition to deriving their protein primarily from meat for their protein requirement, they also require fats, fiber, minerals, vitamins and water. They will also feed on dead carcasses.
Cats are obligate carnivores. This means that their main source of protein must be from meat or fish. They lack the necessary enzymes to digest carbohydrates. I tried giving my cats a teaspoon of a ground up homemade cooked veggie mix and they threw it up. Remember, the last thing I wanted to do was feed them something that would make them vomit! Cats require fats, fiber, minerals, vitamins, and water. They will not eat dead animals unless they are freshly killed.
Species Appropriate Diet for Dogs and Cats
Now that you know some of the dietary requirements of dogs and cats, I’m going to break down and demonstrate the differences in kibble and fresh food appropriate for their species. Ideally, their diet should be high in moisture and protein, moderate in healthy fats, and low in carbohydrates. The ancestral diet is composed of:
* 49% protein
* 44% fat
* 6% carbohydrates
* roughly 2-5% crude fiber (to be determined by a veterinarian/holistic vet)
* water - measured in ounces to equal approximately one ounce for every two pounds of your cat/dog’s body weight; for example: a 20lb. dog requires at least 10 ounces of water depending on the activity level.
Processed dry kibble consists roughly of:
* 25% protein
* 32% fat
* 43% carbohydrates
* barely 10% moisture ( this is very important when referring to cats)
As you can see, the vast differences between the ancestral diet and kibble is staggering. By eating processed kibble, dogs and cats are lacking in both protein and fat and consuming excessive amounts of carbohydrates. In my opinion, this substantial gap in what is biologically required for dogs and cats and what is found in the majority of kibble, is the cause for a variety of health issues. The same thing can be said for the disparity in human consumption of protein, fat, fiber, carbs, and water and what is recommended. We will experience health issues if we consume too many carbs. Even lack of water consumption will cause us to have symptoms. Our bodies are designed to consume certain amounts of each essential food source just like cats’ and dogs’ bodies. When we consume too much or not enough of one of these sources, we experience some kind of symptom.
Proteins
To break down the ancestral diet of cats and dogs, it is beneficial for you to know why protein, fat and carbohydrates contribute to the optimal health of your pet. Starting with proteins, they are the foundation of a carnivore’s diet. They are an integral part of every cell in the body. Proteins are necessary for the formation of cells, enzymes, hormones, ligaments, tendons, organs and protective tissue. They manufacture amino acids which are necessary for proper cell functioning. However, some essential amino acids still need to be added to a carnivore’s diet. For example, cats do not make taurine, but need it to live. Food manufacturers must add it to the food and must be supplemented if it is homemade.
Healthy Proteins for Dogs
According to your budget, the best proteins are grass-fed beef, meats with no antibiotics applied to the animal, wild caught instead of farm raised seafood, organic and cage free eggs. I go as far as to try giving my pets the highest quality meats that I can afford because whatever the animal feeds on is being consumed indirectly by us. Livestock consuming corn, wheat and soy, which are crops that are heavily doused with pesticides, can be harmful to living beings. For more information on this subject, please refer to The Center for Food Safety and research Concentrated Animal Feeding Operation (CAFO). Good sources of protein are as follows:
* grass-fed beef
* Chicken*
* Lamb*
* Turkey*
* Sardines
* Wild caught Alaskan salmon
* Eggs*
* Nuts and seeds - almonds, pecans, walnuts, sunflower and pumpkin seeds. NO macadamia nuts or peanuts.
*should be organic, cage free and antibiotic free meats and eggs
Proteins to Avoid
Just as with humans, certain ingredients can trigger negative immune responses in dogs and cats too. I recommend avoiding them all together. This way, it helps eliminate the root of particular symptoms your dog or cat may be having. These questionable ingredients are as follows:
* Dairy - many dogs are lactose intolerant due to not producing enough lactase to break down the lactose.
* Soy - a common food causing symptoms listed above due to its phytoestrogens which can disrupt hormone balance.
* Beans - legumes such as chickpeas, lentils, navy beans, peas, peanuts. Dogs and cats lack the proper enzyme to break them down
* Wheat - a common ingredient causing symptoms listed above due to an allergy or intolerance.
Two proteins that are debatable are yogurt and peanut butter. I prefer alternatives such as dairy free yogurt (made by Silk) and almond butter. I also give my pets a daily probiotic supplement which has a variety of bacteria in it instead of just the main one that is found in most yogurt brands - lactobacillus acidophilus. This way it is easier to avoid any possible symptoms from developing.
Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates are organic compounds found in both foods and tissues. When we speak of carbohydrates or carbs, we think of sugars. Starches are also considered carbs which turn into sugar. This is important when looking for pet food with few carbs. As I mentioned before, only 6% of a dog’s diet should be carbs. Not that many people realize that in the Guaranteed Analysis in your box or bag of dog or cat food, there is no category of carbohydrates. If you add up the protein, fat, fiber and moisture, the total is just over 50%. What is the rest of the percentage? Carbohydrates! Some of these are healthy carbs and some are starches that are processed by the body into sugars.
Examples of healthy carbs are:
* sweet potatoes
* pumpkin
* spinach
* carrots
* celery
* broccoli
* cooked green beans
* sprouted grains
* apples
* berries
* pineapple
* bananas
Just remember that fresh fruits and veggies can be given as a treat or in addition to your dogs’ daily meals. They are low in calories and high in nutritional value. Even if all you can afford is kibble, adding fresh fruit and veggies will always be beneficial. I try very hard not to waste any meats, fish, fruits or veggies. When I know that fruits or veggies won’t be eaten before they go bad, I will give them to my dog. She eats everything except spinach leaves!
Fatty Acids (Fats)
Fatty acids are necessary for reproduction, cell membrane synthesis, healing, healthy skin and coat, and the regulation of inflammation. There are different types of fats:
* Monounsaturated fats - nuts and seeds, avocados, plant oils
* Polyunsaturated fats - salmon, walnuts, soybean and sunflower oil
* Trans Fats - fried foods, baked goods, hydrogenated oils
We all know the fats we should stay clear of, but we also must consume healthy fats for the reasons listed above. Processed dog and cat food use the cheapest products which aren’t always the healthiest products.
Healthy sources of fatty acids include:
* egg yolks, preferably raw or lightly cooked
* sardines with skin and bones
* salmon oil or canned salmon with skin
* coconut oil
There are also essential fatty acids which our body needs but cannot produce on its own. We must get them from food sources or supplements. The AAFCO requires only Linoleic acid for dogs and arachidonic acid for cats. There are dog and cat foods that add Omega-3 fatty acids to the kibble. That all sounds good, but when the kibble is baked at high temperatures, not only do the fatty acids become less beneficial, but so do the vitamins, minerals, and probiotics. They are more biologically available when added to the food before serving. Therefore, I recommend adding high quality supplements before serving them to your cat or dog. We will dig deeper into this subject in part two of this podcast.
Concerns about fatty acids in pet food
* fatty acids are very fragile and are susceptible to changes in temperature
* fatty acids become rancid when exposed to oxygen and high temperatures
* rancid fats can cause symptoms such as diarrhea, liver and heart issues, and cancer
* According to Steve Brown, an expert on pet nutrition, “No fat is better than rancid fat”.
Proper storage of your pet food is highly recommended. This will be covered in more detail in part two of this podcast. Good quality coconut and olive oil can be added to their food. I recommend staying clear of canola oil in pet food since this is inflammatory and can cause health issues. My cat and dog will eat solid coconut oil whenever I give it to them. If you are interested in doing this, please consult either me or a veterinarian.
I’m sure many cat owners have caught their cats licking the butter dish. Cats instinctively know they need fat, but they don’t know whether the butter is a high-quality or healthy source of fat. This is where it is up to the humans to provide an affordable source of fat like fish oil or sardines. Remember to always introduce anything new to cats and dogs (especially cats) a little bit at a time so as to prevent stomach upsets.
I believe that a clearer understanding of what exactly is in our food supply empowers us to make healthier choices not only for ourselves but also for our pets. A better understanding of the organization that regulates the pet food industry, what a cat’s and dog’s anatomy dictates they consume, which ingredients to avoid and which nutrient-rich ingredients to look for, can help us make the best decisions for our pets.
We all want our pets to live long, healthy lives. We also have financial limits that can restrict us from providing the highest quality of food. However, fresh food is always better than processed food. We know if we only eat fast food for every meal, we will eventually have some kind of health issue. There are still many dogs and cats that eat only processed kibble and still live beyond their expected lifespan. From my experience with my clients, they are the exception rather than the rule, especially within the past 10 years. Your veterinarian would have better statistics about this because they see many more pets than I have during this time. I also believe that kibble produced 25-30 years ago was of higher quality than much of what is available today. Modern pet foods often contain more additives, and in many cases, the quality of the ingredients has declined.
Too many pets die too soon. Whether you’re adding some fresh, real food to your pet’s kibble, feeding a high-quality diet at every meal, or simply offering healthier food occasionally throughout their life, I’m all for that!
Dogs and cats can be picky eaters. Please leave me a comment on what challenges you have experienced trying to find the right food for your cat or dog. Also, let me know what solutions you discovered by changing their food or routine.
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Luna was placed in a kill shelter in Columbus by a family with small children. She was then transported up to Vermilion, Ohio where Cheryl adopted her. She had a scar on her head from a previous injury and was very fearful of children and small women with blond hair. She also did not like noisy toys. She still is leary of noisy toys and young children with erratic movements. She lost her fear of small blonde women later in life. Thank goodness Luna ended up in her forever home with Cheryl!
Luna has the temperament of an Italian Greyhound and the prey drive of a Beagle. Cheryl says Luna’s nose is always to the ground like a Beagle’s and has brought home several “presents” after a romp in the backyard. Chipmunks, baby rabbits and squirrels are her preference. One day, Luna emerged from the bushes with a 5 point deer antler in her mouth. Cheryl’s daughter thought Luna had killed a deer (an impossible feat!), but it was only an antler from a deer in rut (breeding season). Cheryl kept that antler as a fond memory.
Mia enjoys chasing after small animals like her pal Luna does. She likes to catch small critters and deposit them inside the house. She also likes to birdwatch as they fly around above her. When they were younger, Mia would go tell Cheryl in her own way that Luna had escaped. Luna was notorious for running away in pursuit of a squirrel, chipmunk or rabbit, expressing her true Beagle nature. Mia would guide Cheryl to Luna. The two of them would lay down and start howling the way Italian Greyhounds do and Luna would come running back.
Common nicknames for Italian Greyhounds are “Iggy” and “IG”. Cheryl advises prospective pet parents if you don’t want a dog next to you or behind you all the time, then an Italian Greyhound is not the breed for you. They are even referred to as “Velcro Dogs”. Their sweet, gentle and loving temperament makes it very easy to cuddle up with while enjoying a favorite book.
Italian Greyhounds require a lot of exercise. Cheryl has walked Mia and Luna daily in all kinds of weather since she brought them home. Even when Cheryl was recovering from meniscus surgery, she had family members walk “the girls”. All dogs require daily walks. For some breeds, if they don’t get their walk in, and an outlet is not provided to release pent up energy, they can go a little crazy. Italian Greyhounds would fit that description.
Caring for Italian Greyhounds is fairly easy. The biggest challenge pet parents need to watch for is leg injuries, as their dogs’ legs are very thin and prone to fractures. Pet parents must ensure their dogs don’t jump from excessive heights or run on slippery surfaces.
Mia and Luna are bigger than the average size for Italian Greyhounds but still have very low body fat. This combined with their short fur makes them sensitive to cold weather. In the video of the podcast, Cheryl shows the audience the flannel coats that include coverage on their legs and boots for their paws.
Grooming and hygiene are simple. Bathing is recommended only when absolutely necessary so as not to dry out the skin with frequent shampooing. Their nails grow quickly and need to be trimmed often to prevent joint strain on their thin legs. Also, Iggy’s are susceptible to dental disease. Daily brushing and professional cleanings are highly recommended.
About 10 years ago, Cheryl started volunteering for the Italian Greyhound Club of America (IGCA). She fostered a total of at least 5 dogs, but when COVID hit, the restrictions forbade people to visit one another. During this time, Cheryl could not have inquisitive dog lovers come to her home to check out the Italian Greyhounds she was fostering. So, she continued to volunteer by making phone calls to prospective adopters, screening them to ascertain if they were good future pet parents of an Italian Greyhound.
People frequently ask me if I know anyone who is looking for a dog. I never had any luck finding a forever home for anyone, until recently. One of my friends, Dan, called me saying that his friend’s daughter had a 3 month old Italian Greyhound who was just too much for her to handle at this point in her life. She couldn’t provide the exercise and care that was needed and thought it was best to find a better home for him.
I immediately thought of Cheryl in hopes that she could connect me to someone who could help. Instead, Cheryl contacted one of her friends whom she had found an Italian Greyhound for before, just to see if he was in the market for another one. Lo and behold, he was! Within hours, the deal was sealed and Vito was on his way to his forever home soon after.
Vito is co-shared by his pet parents and currently resides in two different households with two other Italian Greyhounds named Colby and Roo. They all get along very well. They play and cuddle with each other and their owners. On weekdays, Vito accompanies Keith to work where he has his own little bed. As difficult as it must have been for the original owner to surrender Vito, she can rest assured that he is getting the best care ever. As Cesar Millan always says, “Happy Dog, Happy Human, Happy World”. Who could ask for a better outcome?
Over the years, Cheryl occasionally has met other people with Italian Greyhounds while out in public. She would exchange phone numbers with them if they were interested in getting their dogs together with other Italian Greyhound owners. Through word of mouth and referrals, this group of 20 meets every other week for play dates. However, due to some health issues “the girls” have had lately, Cheryl hasn’t been able to attend the get togethers. Dog support groups like this one are a fun way to exchange information about the breed and have the dogs interact with one another. Most purebred breeds have clubs nearby where you can meet new people. I highly recommend joining one.
Mia and Luna are considered senior dogs at 13 and 14 years old, respectively. The average lifespan of an Italian Greyhound is between 13 and 15 years old. Just within the past few years, they both started experiencing health issues. Mia was diagnosed with inflammatory bowel disease(IBS) and Luna was diagnosed with cancer in her leg. As with humans, it’s no fun getting old!
Three years ago, Cheryl was noticing that Mia was frequently having diarrhea. Her vet put Mia on prednisone. She remained on that for 3-4 months, but they weren’t seeing the results they were hoping for. Mia was also losing weight. She was already thin to begin with, so losing weight was worrisome. The vet recommended Dr. Crandell, a board-certified Small Animal Internal Medicine Specialist at MedVet in Akron, Ohio. He recommended that Mia start taking a chemotherapy drug called Chlorambucil to treat her IBS symptoms. The dosages have diminished as the years have passed but she will most likely have to remain on it for the rest of her life.
Cheryl has to be very careful what she feeds Mia. Due to her IBS condition, she can only eat a prescription diet where the protein in the food is hydrolyzed. This means that the protein is already broken down so that the dog’s immune system cannot recognize it. This prevents gastrointestinal issues. Royal Canin, Hill’s Science Diet, and Purina all have prescription formulas that your vet can recommend. Cheryl has to alert pet parents not to give Mia any treats. She can only have her diet food as treats. She can also have some fruits and vegetables as treats or mixed in with her food.
Mia gets her bloodwork done every few months to make sure certain levels have not changed. So far, the results have been relatively the same but not enough to go off the chemo drug. Cheryl adds Vitamin B12 and a supplement for liver support called Denamarin to Mia’s food. She keeps a watchful eye on Mia for any changes in her eating habits, behavior, and overall health. She keeps in close touch with her vet to make sure she is enjoying a good quality of life while managing her IBS.
Luna has had her share of health issues in her senior years, the most notable one being her cancer diagnosis. As I mentioned before, Cheryl had meniscus surgery a year ago in April and had family members and friends walk Luna and Mia while she recovered. They would come back from the walk reporting that Luna didn’t want to walk and only wanted to go back home. They thought maybe the reason she didn’t want to walk was because she was separated from Cheryl. However, they also noticed that Luna’s leg was stiffening up. By the end of April, Cheryl noticed that Luna would hold her one leg up periodically and walk on the other three legs. Now Cheryl knew there was something not quite right and had to take action.
Cheryl took Luna to the vet. After the initial visit, Luna was prescribed muscle relaxers to see if that would help, but advised to return in a week. On the second visit, x-rays were taken, but did not reveal anything. The vet recommended to get an appointment with an internist. Cheryl already knew an internist because of Mia’s IBS issues. She returned to the same internist who ordered blood work to be done. Nothing was revealed in the bloodwork. So, he recommended physical therapy.
Cheryl made an appointment with Dr. Letosky at Avon Lake Animal Clinic. She is a veterinarian who specializes in Canine Rehabilitation. Dr. Letosky observed Luna and upon that initial assessment, deduced that Luna had cancer. This was confirmed through an ultrasound which showed her muscles in her left leg were crooked and had pockets of blood that were cancerous. Cheryl noticed that the stiffest area of Luna’s leg was between the knee and elbow joints, which is where the cancer had settled. Treatment options were discussed, but amputation was recommended.
In my May 5, 2026 podcast with Dr. Randy from Animal Clinic Northview, he shares with us the predicament pet parents face when their dog or cat is diagnosed with cancer. Depending on the cancer and where it is located determines the treatment. Chemotherapy, alternative therapies, and amputation are all available options presented to pet parents. Cheryl made the decision to have the leg amputated and Luna has been cancer free ever since.
Cheryl was advised to maintain a physical therapy routine for Luna for the remainder of her life. This is an easy task to fulfill since Cheryl religiously walks Mia and Luna daily. She just has to add hills to the walk to build up Luna’s muscles. In fact, the vet told Cheryl that Luna recovered so well from the amputation because she had walked her so much before the surgery. Her muscles were already strong which helped the recovery period.
Life as a ‘tripod’ has been manageable. Since Luna expends almost three times as much energy as a quadruped, she gets warmer and tired faster than most dogs. Cheryl now has a stroller for Luna for those situations. The stroller also came in handy while Luna recovered from recent eye surgery performed by Dr. Vogel at MedVet. She had a growth removed from her eyelid due to calcium deposits on her cornea. I recently overheard someone talking to Cheryl about Luna and the person was expressing concern and sadness for Luna’s condition. Cheryl had the perfect response, “ Don’t feel sorry for her, say ‘You go girl!’ instead”
Dogs are amazing for so many reasons. Cheryl, Mia and Luna are a loving, bonded trio who take what life throws at them with amazing and admirable coping skills. I believe that owning a dog isn’t always easy and fun. Along the way, obstacles and unexpected challenges can force us to make difficult decisions. How we respond to those moments ultimately reveals our character and the depth of our commitment to our dogs. Unfortunately, some of these decisions ultimately come down to finances. However, being unable to afford an operation is not necessarily a reflection of how deeply someone loves their dog.
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Another reaction that can be caused by allergies is reverse sneezing. This is when your dog rapidly inhales air through their nose creating a honking sound. It can be triggered by excitement, prolonged tension on their collar, or allergies. It quickly subsides and the dog returns to normal breathing. The first time I experienced this with my dog Hank, I thought he was choking and couldn’t breathe and was having some kind of seizure. It was frightening to say the least.
Symptoms of food allergies
Food allergies are similar to seasonal allergies. Dogs can be allergic to certain foods, most commonly, certain proteins. They can cause dogs to itch all over their body and lick their paws. I have seen dogs’ paws that have turned raw and become a rust color because they have been licked so much. There are a lot of additives in dog food that their bodies have difficulty digesting and ultimately causing an allergic reaction. I have seen the itching subside after changing the protein source from chicken to turkey or other proteins. Prescription dog foods that hydrolyze the protein for easier digestion and relief from allergic reactions can be recommended by your vet. I will be discussing this further in a future episode concerning nutrition.
Allergy Testing and Shots
Allergy shots are available which involve injecting small amounts of specific allergens to build up tolerance. Dr. Randy states that if a client chooses this option, they have to commit to a long term plan. This is not a quick fix.
Allergy testing through blood samples and intradermal skin testing are also available. This can be costly and intradermal testing can be invasive, requiring mild sedation. This is usually done when immunotherapy drugs and protein elimination have failed. Specific blood panels can be ordered to pinpoint the irritant causing the reactions. It will test for approximately 60 different environmental factors and will identify food allergens as well. However, testing for food allergies does not yield as reliable results as environmental influences do. This type of testing and allergy shots used to be very popular before immunotherapy drugs were available.
Immunotherapy Drugs to Alleviate Allergic Reactions
The biggest advancement in veterinary medicine over the past five to ten years is immunotherapy treatments. Before then, when dogs and cats had allergic reactions, the only option was to prescribe steroids or antihistamines. Most of the time, they would stop the itching, but the side effects prevented them from being used long term. Antihistamines do not get absorbed to the level they need to be to become effective. Nowadays, two immunotherapy drugs are commonly prescribed for allergies: Apoquel and Cytopoint. They have revolutionized allergy treatment. However, certain cases still require administering steroids. Prescribing them has dramatically dropped with the introduction of immunotherapy drugs.
Apoquel is not an allergy pill. It is not a steroid or an antihistamine. It is an immunotherapy drug. It inhibits the attachment of specific molecules to receptors that trigger an itching and inflammatory response. According to Dr. Randy, it is very effective and can be prescribed to dogs 12 months and older. It can work almost immediately with little to no side effects. In fact, if it doesn’t work within approximately 48 hours, a different option will have to be explored. A higher dosage is not an option. Apoquel has also worked to relieve allergic reactions to food and proteins.
There is a misconception about Apoquel that it can cause cancer. Dr. Randy debunks this myth. Since Apoquel is an immunotherapy drug and suppresses the immune system in a particular way, it is not recommended for dogs who have been diagnosed with cancer. Their bodies need all the help they can get to fight cancer cells.
Cytopoint is an injection that is effective in eliminating the itching response and can last up to two months. Both Apoquel and Cytopoint can be stopped and started at any time that is recommended by your veterinarian. Cytopoint is different than Apoquel in that it targets a specific protein that is responsible for sending signals to the brain to stop the itching. Due to the difference in how these two immunotherapy drugs work, Cytopoint can be given to dogs diagnosed with cancer and to those with compromised immune systems.
A key takeaway when calculating the possibility to prescribe either Apoquel or Cytopoint is to ascertain the reasons for using them. It is essential to determine the root cause of the itching. Both of these drugs are very effective but costly to pet parents. Dr. Randy likes to be sure that he prescribes them for the right reasons. He believes that immunotherapy is the wave of the future for treating not just allergies, but also for treating other common conditions he sees in dogs and cats.
My dog’s history of allergic reactions
It took me a few years to realize that my Leonberger, Ebi, was allergic to something in the environment in the fall. One August, I was visiting my parents in Rochester, New York. I had been warned that pesticides had been applied to the grass in their townhouse community to kill crab grass. By the time I got back home to Cleveland, Ebi was itching almost constantly. In a few days, she stopped. I never went to the vet because it started to subside quickly. I thought maybe she had a reaction to the pesticide used to kill the crab grass.
The following year, around the same time of year, Ebi started itching again. This time it lasted longer. I noticed abrasions and scabs on her sides and belly when she would lay on her back. It went away in about a week to 10 days. I did not go to the vet this time either. Then, around the same time of year as before, I went to Rochester again and Ebi started itching so much that she could barely sleep (neither could I). I finally started to believe that she was allergic to something in Rochester. By the time I got back home, the itching subsided, but it lasted longer.
I didn’t want to put Ebi through that ever again! So, as soon as she started itching the following August or September, I took her to Dr. Randy and told him my story. He gave her a Cytopoint injection which stopped the itching almost immediately.
Just last year, I tried a supplement for seasonal allergies around mid-August until the end of September. That worked! However, I am noticing for the first time, Ebi is itching a little more than usual this spring. She is now 8 years old with an 8 year old immune system that doesn’t work as efficiently as it used to. Dr. Randy says that dogs can have allergies year round. Once they manifest symptoms, they can last longer each time. It is very rare to see dogs or cats become less allergic to things over time.
Arthritis in Dogs
Just as humans suffer from arthritis typically in their senior years, so do dogs. Arthritis in general is referred to as osteoarthritis or OA. A type of arthritis that is familiar to most of us dog lovers is hip dysplasia. This is when the ball and socket of the hip joint does not form a tight fit with enough cushion around it. Instead of rotating smoothly with movement, it is more of a pounding bone on bone action causing discomfort and inflammation.
Osteoarthritis can be caused by the following:
* Hereditary factors - large and giant breeds are more susceptible
* Strenuous exercise - repetitive jumping
* Excess weight
* Previous injury
* compensatory damage due to lessening the load on the affected joint
According to Dr. Randy, when dogs walk, they carry about 60% of their weight in the front and 40% in the back. Therefore, if a back leg or hip is hurting, more weight will be put on the front legs. Over time, this will contribute to the wear and tear on the front limbs, compounding the existing problem. As osteoarthritis progresses, the cartilage in the affected joint deteriorates causing inflammation and irritation. Pain management is critical to keeping the pain in check.
A way to confirm that a dog has arthritis is to take an x-ray. This can be a very challenging procedure that sometimes requires mild sedation. Not all dogs will lay on their side or back and be perfectly still for several seconds! Vet techs will try to keep the dog as calm and comfortable as possible. Dr. Randy believes this method of diagnosis is crucial in order to avoid prescribing medication for a condition that possibly does not exist. Certain conditions can get worse by adding incorrect treatments.
“Know what you are treating”. - Dr. Randy
Common myths that Dr. Randy hears about arthritis:
* glucosamine and chondroitin prevent arthritis
* walking your dog short distances will prevent arthritis
* arthritis can be cured
* it only affects older dogs
* a few extra pounds won’t affect the arthritis
* treating arthritis will prevent further degradation of the joints
* dogs should not exercise when diagnosed with arthritis
Osteoarthritis is a progressive, incurable disease that can affect young and old dogs alike. Treating arthritis with various medications and alternative medicine will help manage the pain associated with it. If the synovial fluid around the joint is lacking, and the cartilage is compromised, inflammation and pain will result. Therefore, managing the pain is crucial. This can be difficult to initially diagnose without x-rays since cats and dogs are good at masking their pain. However, if you notice your dog being reluctant to climb stairs, struggling to get up from lying down or being more lethargic than usual, this may indicate they are suffering from stiff, arthritic joints.
If pet parents suspect or just want to find out if their dog has arthritis, they can first seek the counsel of a veterinarian who can properly diagnose it through x-rays. One of the worst things pet parents can do is to stop taking the dog for walks and cease all activity. Regular activity like walking can strengthen the muscle around the affected joints, improve circulation around the arthritic area and nourish cartilage that exists.
It also helps maintain a healthy weight. Your veterinarian can tell you the ideal weight for your dog. You may have to start counting calories and measuring their daily food instead of just eyeballing it. A few extra pounds is more to carry around and puts more stress on the joints.
The good news is there are several options to keep your pooch comfortable:
* non-steroidal anti inflammatories such as Galliprant and Rimadyl
* immunotherapy drugs such as Librela for dogs and Solensia for cats
* alternative medicines such as acupuncture, laser therapy, water therapy, shockwave therapy, swimming, and massages
* platelet rich plasma (PRP)
* Arthramid - hydrogel injected directly into the joint
* All natural supplements including Omega-3, glucosamine and chondroitin, and MSM
When pet parents get a diagnosis before the arthritis has progressed too far, they can start managing the pain as needed with an anti inflammatory medicine. However, this is not for long term daily usage as they affect internal organs. As the arthritis progresses and noticeable symptoms appear, such as limping and favoring a particular side when lying down, an immunotherapy drug such as Librela will be recommended. This is administered by a veterinarian as a monthly shot. As with any drug, there can be possible side effects. Dr. Randy stresses the importance of confirming the diagnosis of arthritis before starting this type of treatment. The story below illustrates accurately how Dr. Randy handles arthritic dogs.
I can attest first hand to the effectiveness of Librela. Dr. Randy diagnosed my friends’ German Shepherd, Heidi, with arthritis - more specifically hip dysplasia. It was confirmed by an x-ray when she was young. It was nothing to be alarmed about, but something to keep an eye on.
Dr. Randy took another x-ray a couple years later to see if it progressed. There wasn’t a lot of difference in the hip dysplasia, which was good but later x-rays showed arthritis in various parts of her body. Heidi was able to continue her daily walks and had arranged play dates often with no noticeable discomfort.
Not until she was about 9 years old were her symptoms more obvious. She started hesitating walking up stairs, and then later injured her CCL (the equivalent of the ACL in humans). The injury was not bad enough to warrant surgery. In fact, she recovered after not being as active for a period of time. She did re-injure the same CCL and it took longer to recover. Her pet parents gave her anti-inflammatories to manage the pain.
Occasionally, I walk Heidi for my friends. I noticed the progression and how it seemed Heidi was struggling while walking. She was limping and panting from the stress and pain. That’s when Heidi’s pet parents took her back to see Dr. Randy. He suggested the Librela shot. From that point on, I notice when Heidi gets the shot, she walks more comfortably. When it is time for another monthly shot, she is more uncomfortable, so I won’t go as far as we usually do. Heidi started receiving laser treatments under the supervision of Dr. Grace Schmeiser. She was mentioned in an earlier podcast about the therapy programs offered at Animal Clinic Northview. I walked Heidi a few days ago and she lasted the entire walk like we usually do. She still limps a bit but seems to be in less pain.
Other types of therapy mentioned earlier that is offered at Animal Clinic Northview are swimming in a pool, underwater treadmill, laser therapy, shock wave therapy, and acupuncture. In addition to these modalities are supplements such as glucosamine and chondroitin, Omega-3, and MSM. Please seek the guidance of your vet or a holistic vet. I am a certified herbalist and can advise on correct dosages.
A more up-to-date way to treat arthritis is Platelet Rich Plasma or PRP. This is when blood is drawn from the dog, is centrifuged, and then injected back into the affected joint. The purpose is to reduce inflammation which helps manage the pain, improve joint mobility, and accelerate healing for injured ligaments. It is a safe alternative to medications and steroids. Your veterinarian can discuss with you if this is a good option for your dog.
Arthramid is another option for treating arthritis. It is a hydrogel that can restore the elasticity of the synovial fluid and can provide relief for up to 2 years. Again, your veterinarian will determine if your dog is a good candidate to Arthramid.
The very last option for dogs suffering from hip dysplasia is hip replacement surgery. It is difficult to find doctors who specialize in this operation. Dr. Randy will refer these patients to The Ohio State School of Veterinary Medicine. As with any surgery, there are risks involved such as infection. The rehabilitation can be challenging for the dog and the pet parents. Some pet parents who find themselves in this predicament will choose alternative methods, immunotherapy drugs, and/or supplements instead.
I would like to personally thank Dr. Randy Hutchison for once again sharing his expertise and giving us a clearer picture of what our dogs are going through every allergy season. The big takeaways: know the signs — itchy feet, rubbing faces, reverse sneezing — and know that there are real, effective options beyond steroids, including Apoquel and Cytopoint.
Dr. Randy also shares his highly proficient knowledge on how to diagnose and treat arthritis in dogs. X-rays provide the concrete evidence of the prevalence of arthritis and where it is located. There are many options to treat arthritis depending on the location and severity of the symptoms. If your dog is struggling, don't wait — talk to your vet.
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Vets are expected to be jack of all trades. This can be very challenging. However, Dr. Randy’s staff has the freedom to choose what they would like to specialize in. He always tells his new doctors they are allowed “five No’s”. It is important to know the types of cases they are uncomfortable with and leave them to other vets who want to be treating them. He wants them to choose what they are passionate about so they become very good at what they do. This allows Dr. Randy to direct specific issues to vets who see these types of cases often.
“It’s all about putting patients in the hands that are most likely to give them a chance to help them.” - Dr. Randy
One common reason to bring your dog in for a checkup is when you notice a lump or bump. You may notice a lump while petting your dog. You may see it when they roll over. The lump could be as innocuous as a wart, a skin tag, or the result of an allergic reaction. Others could be a fatty lipoma, a sebaceous cyst or a mass. Some dogs have a predisposition to forming lumps and bumps. Certain breeds are prone to them. However, every dog is susceptible. Dr. Randy always recommends bringing the dog in to get it checked out.
Sometimes, groomers find lumps that the owner never saw or felt. Lumps can be in hard to see areas and places you don’t typically touch. For example, a groomer will feel inside a back leg while they are combing the dog’s fur or they have to shave the rear end and a lump is discovered. In my podcast about grooming, Sharyn Ugan has found lumps on dogs that the pet parents had no idea were there.
When Dr. Randy is assessing a lump or bump, he typically manipulates it with his fingers. He can feel if it is hard or soft. The dog usually does not seem to be in any discomfort. The texture and the look of the lump does not indicate whether it is benign or malignant. In fact, he has learned over the years - never assume anything.
Screening is necessary to determine exactly what the lump is. It is done with a fine needle aspirate of the lump. A needle is injected into it to draw a sample of cellular material. This is transferred onto a slide to be examined and will reveal two things immediately: whether it is benign or malignant.
The cells in the sample may be benign cystic junk aspirated from a sebaceous cyst. These lumps can fill up with cystic debris so much that they can burst. This can be painful for the dog. Once it bursts, the process of forming and filling up can resume as long as the lining inside them keeps secreting the debris. Surgical removal of the entire cyst, including the lining, may be recommended.
Another type of benign lumps are fatty lipomas. They have clear fatty cells inside them with no cellular makeup. They can grow to be huge and located in cumbersome spots on a dog’s body. In both of these types of lumps, the pet parent is advised to keep a watchful eye on them. If they change color or size quickly, it should be checked out as soon as possible.
Depending on the location and the size of the lump, surgery may be recommended. For example, if the fatty lipoma is located on the dog’s side and it bothers them when they lay down, then the pet parent may want to remove it. Dr. Randy has experienced the pet parent initially deciding not to surgically remove a decent sized lipoma, but then later changed their mind. After the removal of the lipoma, they noticed their dog moving around more freely and even acting a lot happier.
Dr. Randy and his staff are accustomed to looking at certain cells from the different types of lumps mentioned above. It’s when abnormal cells make an appearance that require the expertise of a pathologist. Animal Clinic Northview is equipped with one of Dr. Randy’s favorite instruments called a digital cytology unit. This instrument scans the slide of cellular material collected from a lump and sends it to a pathologist somewhere in the world. They will get results within hours! Before the digital cytology unit was available, results were sent to a laboratory somewhere in the U.S. and results were not available for days. The expediency of the digital cytology unit results provide comfort to the pet parents so they can start making decisions that are best for their dog.
When talking about lumps that may be malignant, it is important to understand the difference between what a cytology is and what a biopsy is. A cytology is squirting material from a lump on to a slide and determining what type of cells are present. It may not tell the doctor everything, but it may provide some clues as to what it is. If it is viewed by a pathologist who determines there are some cells that have changed, then a biopsy will be recommended. This is when the lump is surgically removed and the whole mass is sent out for pathology.
Sometimes the lump is from a family of tumors called a sarcoma. One of the characteristics of a sarcoma is they like to adhere to muscles, nerves or bones, making them very difficult to remove. They are not necessarily aggressive, but they are invasive. The decision to remove some of the sarcoma, or to possibly have to remove a limb affected by it, is a difficult one to make. It is essential to have all the facts in place so that the best decision can be made. Sometimes CT scans or ultrasounds reveal that the removal of the tumor is not advisable due to the location and what it is attached to. Dr. Randy has to have an open and honest discussion with the client as to what will be the next course of action.
As in human medicine, cancer has become an increasingly prevalent occurrence. Over the years, Dr. Randy has seen a rise not only with cancer in dogs, but also cancer in younger dogs.
“Cancer is not an old age problem”. - Dr. Randy
Dr. Randy often gets asked by clients looking for puppies if he can recommend a breed that won’t get cancer. There is breed disposition, especially in Golden Retrievers, Boxers and giant breed dogs. In fact, when Dr. Randy was in vet school, he would go to a park and watch the different breeds go by. When he would see certain breeds, he would come up with 3-5 diseases they were prone to get. However, all breeds have the possibility of getting cancer. He advises the clients to get the dog that fits their lifestyle instead of basing their decision on a hypothetical.
If all of the tests come back positive for cancer, then the decision will now be to treat it medically or surgically. Another option is to not treat the cancer and instead provide comfort to the dog through pain medications and other therapies. Treating cancer in dogs medically means to treat the patient with traditional modalities such as chemotherapy or radiation. Animal Clinic Northview does not have radiation equipment. If the client wishes to choose this option, university teaching hospitals or specialized veterinary oncology centers provide this treatment.
One thing Dr. Randy wants his clients to keep in mind when faced with this difficult decision is how to provide the best quality of life. His ultimate desire is to find the best treatment that allows the dog to still run and play and be a happy dog, even with the diagnosis of cancer. In human cancer diagnoses, the goal is to cure the cancer. As much as veterinary medicine would like that goal to be the same, most veterinarians agree they are giving the dog the best quality of life possible. Even though Dr. Randy believes dogs do better with chemo treatments than humans do, there are still side effects. This is due to dosages not being as strong and the frequency of treatments may be more spread out than those for humans.
The most common cancer Dr. Randy treats with chemotherapy is lymphoma. He will see dogs with big lymph nodes under their jaw, shoulder, or knee. The most common protocol for this type of cancer is the Wisconsin Protocol, often called CHOP. This determines the type of drugs, a schedule of frequency, and the amount of medicines the dog will receive. All of this is adjusted based on the side effects the dog may experience.
Another option to treating lymphoma besides the Wisconsin Protocol is two recent drugs available on the market. Scientists have conducted so much research in ways to combat canine lymphoma by identifying specific cells to target that are essential for fighting infection. They can also suppress the immune system’s response to cancer which can ultimately kill cancer cells and slow down the spread of them.
Tanovea is a drug to treat canine lymphoma. It is commonly recommended when the lymphoma has relapsed using standard protocols. It is an injection that is scheduled according to the veterinarian’s advice. Another drug is called Laverdia. It is administered in a convenient pill form which can be given at home. It is not chemotherapy, but works with the immune system to inhibit a specific protein, and ultimately prevents the spread of the cancer cells.
Dr. Randy believes that immunotherapies are the new age cancer therapy and will continue to improve. There already are immunotherapy drugs to successfully treat melanoma. One can hope that more solutions will be invented and approved to help our canine companions fight the increasing threat of this deadly disease.
In conclusion, don’t assume — get it checked. A simple fine needle aspirate can give you answers fast, and catching something early can make all the difference. If this episode helped you, share it with a fellow dog parent.
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As with many hunting breeds, Plott Hounds have a unique bark that can drive a lot of families crazy. They require lots of daily exercise with plenty of space to roam. They are used primarily for hunting larger animals such as bears and boars. They are an intelligent breed which means they need to be challenged not just physically but also mentally.
As Gary mentions, some breeds like the Plott Hound can be a challenging family pet due to their high energy and strong prey drive. They can also be difficult to potty train. They may eliminate whenever and wherever they feel like it. Gary advises families with Plott Hounds to put in durable, waterproof vinyl flooring. It may take awhile to fully potty train them!
Bloodhounds
Another hunting breed that can be challenging to have as a family pet is a Bloodhound. I have only experienced one Bloodhound in my career as a dog trainer. A woman brought one to Petco for my six week obedience class. He lasted two weeks. He was already a huge dog at 10 months old, which made it difficult to control his urge to jump on everyone and everything. Petco discouraged and forbade their dog trainers from using pinch collars, but when my manager saw how out of control this dog was, he handed me one! Gary jokes about how many Bloodhounds should be in an obedience class - one! Their independent nature requires very patient and consistent training. Their intense tracking instinct sets them in a class above all others. Gary has fond memories of working search and rescue sites with a man who handled Bloodhounds.
Tracking vs Trailing
We have all seen our dogs sniffing the ground wherever they walk. If you observe your dog long enough as they are sniffing, sometimes they sniff intensely and seem to follow a path. This is called tracking. When this is done in a hunting environment, it is sometimes done as the dog drags a long leash or the handler is holding a leash. Handlers use the keen sense of smell of scent hounds to detect, follow and locate a specific scent, such as a wounded or dead deer. Most of us have seen shows on television where the scent hound is used in search and rescue missions. Handlers will have their dogs search for a scent left by footprints, blood, or broken vegetation where animals may have passed through.
Trailing dogs follow a specific scent in the air or around obstacles. They can locate a deer that may have fallen when wounded, but then got back up and kept walking. Their heads are usually level or held in the air. They are usually ahead of their handler and operate independently. If they lose the scent, they will start to circle around to find the scent again. Many dogs will be adept at both tracking and trailing to assist the hunter. Gary talks about how dogs are highly skilled at staying on the scent trail. They know that the scent is stronger on the shady side of a hill covered with dew in the morning versus the sunny side where the scent has been baked off.
Another type of hunting dog is a scent dog. Their powerful sense of smell allows them to track prey over long distances. Their alluring long ears is a characteristic that aids them in sweeping the scent of their prey towards their nose. Beagles, Bloodhounds, and Coonhounds are all scent dogs with the Bloodhound being the apex scent dog. Just look at those ears in the picture above!
Beagles make excellent hunting dogs and family pets. They are known for their nose to the ground while running approach to sniff out and direct rabbits and small game towards their hunter. They work well in a pack to flush out bunnies in the brush. Their baying (type of bark) is unique and can alert their hunters from far away. If you have ever heard a beagle baying, I think you would agree with me that it sounds like he’s being tortured. We had one in our neighborhood we called Torture Dog! However, their curious, clown-like nature makes them fun family pets. They do very well in obedience classes and can learn any skill presented to them.
When referring to hunting dog breeds, there are sight hounds like the Greyhounds, Whippets and Salukis. They rely on their sense of sight over their sense of smell to spot and chase prey. They are notorious for their incredible speed and aerodynamic build. They also make wonderful couch potato loving companions but must be socialized and exercised daily.
Training Hunting Dogs
According to Gary, the most important skill you can teach your hunting dog is the recall, or the “Come” command. Most 8 week old puppies have an innate desire to follow you around. Foster that instinct and develop it by increasing the distance between you and your puppy. At that stage, all you have to do is just look and smile at them, and they will come running to you. When they get distracted by something, go hide behind a tree not too far away. Let them look for you and use their nose to find you. When they do find you, make a big deal out of it. You don’t want to create what Gary calls a “bootlicker” - a dog that won’t wander off on their own and prefers to stay by your side.
The Recall or “Come” Command
As the dog matures, get them used to dragging a long leash around. Gary recommends a Biothane leash that won’t get tangled in bushes. This will be your tool to follow through to make sure they come to you. In the early stages of the recall on leash, keep the distance short and the distractions few. Repeat, repeat, and repeat some more. Add the command “Come” as they are in the act of running to you. Dogs associate commands with the action they are performing at that moment. Only say the command once. If they don’t come, follow through with a tug on the leash until they come to you. It is important that they come right to your feet. Finish the recall with a nice sit and the dog looking at you. Reward them with a toy or treat and lots of praise. We have to make it worth it to the dog to come to us. Have an energetic way of calling your dog’s name to you. Keep it positive. Why would a dog want to come to their handler if they are consistently being yelled at to come?
The “Leave It”/”Drop It” Commands
Another very important command to teach your hunting dog is “Leave It” and “Drop It”. Work with a trainer to help move your dog through the stages of escalation as they pursue a moving target. The dog should be able to leave or drop the lure while they are excited. This can come in handy when your dog is pursuing a skunk!
Some ideas your pet hunting dog can do to fulfill the instinct to hunt without actually hunting:
* train your dog to have a reliable, consistent recall
* Contact the American Kennel Club , NSTRA (National Shoot to Retrieve Association) or a local hunting club to attend hunting breed specific training and trials
* take them for a “sniffari” (walking on a long leash in the woods)
* play hide and seek with your dog
* set up a scent trail of hidden treats or a squirt bottle trail of pureed meat and have your dog follow the trail
* invest in a flirt pole designed to have dogs chase, catch and release a toy lure at the end of the pole (advisable to work with a trainer)
* bury a valuable treat or bone for your dog after they have chewed on it and watch them find it and dig it out (great for hunting breeds known to dig out small prey from their burrow)
* enroll in obedience classes for mental and physical stimulation throughout the dog’s lifetime
* attend pack walks in wooded areas that also do obedience skills with the pack
So many different hunting dogs make great family pets. As I mentioned in my previous podcast, it is important to know the characteristics of the breed you wish to have as a family member so that you can genetically fulfill their needs. We all can get in a rut and get lazy with our dogs. You will notice a difference in their behavior when you drain their energy with one of the many ideas mentioned above. They will be more calm and obedient. Make a commitment to your dog to walk them daily to drain their pent up energy. Do some research on the breed, join a breed specific club, and most of all, have fun with your dog!
Please keep in mind that the Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Wildlife (ODNR) oversees hunting and fishing by issuing licenses, establishing regulations and managing wildlife populations. Game wardens ensure laws are enforced. This is to prevent extinction of certain species and people shooting at game from their cars, etc. Gary mentions there is etiquette to follow when hunting. For example, it is unethical to shoot at birds that are out of range which can only wound and not kill. Suffering of an animal should be avoided. The mission statement of ODNR is:
“To ensure a balance between the wise use and protection of our natural resources for the benefit of all.”
Before I elaborate on the different hunting breeds Gary and I discussed, I would like to address the topic of hunting in general. Some people may not want to listen or read this post because it has to do with the demise of living beings. As an experienced hunter, Gary has observed time and time again how matter of fact dogs are about death. There is no remorse. The only emotion you could attach to the experience is gratification. They are satisfying an instinct. Sometimes, the dogs will flip the dead animal up in the air just to see if they can do it all over again. They couldn’t be happier.
We have to remember, before our meat was already wrapped in cellophane to be sold in a grocery store, hunters had to go out and lure, trap, kill and gut animals daily. We all have the instinct to hunt. That means when we are forced to, we will try to live off the vegetables and fruit of the land and/or kill other animals in order to survive. A way we can simulate that instinct to hunt is to shop. The thrill of finding exactly what we are looking for is a form of hunting. We are excited when we find what we were looking for and we are disappointed when we don’t. This can result in pure exhaustion too!
It is us humans who get in the way of our dogs doing what dogs are born to do. So often I have heard clients tell me similar stories about how they punished their dog for digging a hole to catch and kill their favorite chipmunk named Chippie. The dog had no emotional attachment to “Chippie” and couldn’t logically reason with themselves to not kill it just because you loved watching it frolic around your backyard. Pet parents must ask themselves if they are positively or negatively reacting to their dog when they are fulfilling the instinct to hunt. If they do not provide the structure and environment to fulfill these needs, adverse behaviors can arise. Gary drills in his client’s heads:
“Stay out of the way of your dog and don’t interrupt the hunt”.
Gary talks about how dogs feel when it’s an “off day” when the hunters are unable to find what they were looking for. It’s just like going fishing and the fish aren’t biting that day. If the dog doesn’t get rewarded with the hunt, Gary notices their behavior change. They actually seem to sulk and mope around.
You always want to set the dog up for success no matter what skill you are teaching them. When Gary is working with puppies, he always ends a hunting session on a positive note. If nothing was caught, he will tie a long string to a bird wing and fling it around causing them to point. They can chase and catch that as their reward. Sometimes he will sneak away into some tall grass, make a lot of commotion, get the puppies to come check it out. A bunny might be in there. Whether they catch the bunny or not, it was still important to them because a bunny was there.
It is worth mentioning that all dogs have a prey drive. They are predators. The instinct to hunt, chase and kill prey emanates from one of the four responses processed in their brain to ensure survival and continuation of the species: fight, flight, feed (eating) and breed (reproducing). Hunting is not part of the feed response. It is part of the fight response. Gary will return for a future podcast where we will delve into the prey drive and how he manages it so that the dog remains clear-headed as it escalates through this fight response.
The instinct to herd animals also comes from the fight response. A border collie’s locked-in stare and posture when herding sheep looks different than a Bluetick Coonhound holding a racoon in a tree, but it comes from the same fight response. As a trainer working with different breeds, it is critical to understand what to expect from each breed.
“Breed traits are real.”
I don’t own a gun and have never hunted. However, when talking about dogs who were bred to perform specific tasks, there is something special about watching them do what comes natural to them. I love watching dogs work. There is a certain energy they exude while they are performing that instinctual act.
My dog Ebi is a Leonberger. They were bred in Germany to pull carts on farms and to be reliable watchdogs. They also are known to be excellent swimmers and are still used in water rescues due to their size and strength. Their paws are webbed making them effective swimmers. Several years ago, I simulated a water rescue at the old Canine Country Club in North Olmsted. I had a floating device with a handle. I bobbed up and down shouting “Help!” Ebi swam over to me, I showed her the handle to grab with her mouth, and she pulled me to the ramp! I did not train her to do that. I unleashed the instinct which is in her DNA. It was an awesome experience.
I also fulfilled Ebi’s instinct to haul carts by fitting her with a special harness and rigging up leads attached to a sled so she could pull my neighbor’s son on the snow covered sidewalk. As soon as I got her started, the instinct to pull took over and she pulled him right along as shown in the video below.
Gary uses the term genetic fulfillment when talking about this innate, instinctual drive in dogs. I was fulfilling my Leonberger’s genetic makeup by simulating a swim rescue and pulling a sled. The activities I have chosen for her align with the original purpose of the Leonberger breed.
In my opinion, a well balanced dog is one that gets their needs met in addition to the obvious eating, drinking and sleeping. They get plenty of exercise that includes structured and unstructured time. This includes structured walks with their leader and unstructured exercise rooting around in the backyard or playing with other friendly dogs. A well balanced dog is provided with activities that simulate or duplicate their specific needs as a breed. They also know their boundaries and limitations as set by their leader. Finally, they receive affection at the appropriate time - while they are calm and submissive. If these needs are not met, behavioral issues can arise.
Gary recounts a story about clients of mine who were having a slew of behavioral issues with their Redbone Coonhound they purchased from a pet store. The adolescent puppy was eliminating all over the house, would not stay in a crate, and constantly broke away from them. These are all common behaviors of the breed, especially when they are not provided structure and getting their needs met. The clients actually wanted to make him a hunting dog and had aspirations to train him to do so. I reached out to Gary for his expertise since I didn’t know how to train hunting dogs. It required work that the client eventually realized they could not provide and ended up finding a new home for the dog.
Some clients I have come across prefer hunting dog breeds. I understand why. As puppies, they are adorable with their big floppy ears that are almost as big as they are! The bright blue eyes of a German Shorthaired Pointer puppy or the droopy faces of Bloodhound puppies are irresistible. We also can’t forget that Labradors and Golden Retrievers are hunting dogs too. No matter what the breed, puppies melt our hearts. According to Gary, the worst reason to get a dog is how it looks. Instead, match the breed with your lifestyle based on what you currently do now, not what you are going to do.
Puppies grow up to be beautiful dogs from an esthetic point of view, but can wreak havoc on their pet parents when their needs are not met. I hope I have sparked some motivation in you to reflect upon if and how you are genetically fulfilling your dog. You will also benefit from the feeling you will witness when you unleash that skill your dog’s DNA is yearning to express.
Please share in the comments below what you currently do or would like to do for your dog so they can express and enjoy what they were bred to do.
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