Amber-Dawn Bear Robe joins us to discuss the Indigenous fashion on view on and off the runway at this year's SWAIA Santa Fe Indian Market.

More SWAIA Fashion:

• Website and Instagram

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

• Our website and classes
• Our Instagram
• Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles

Innovation and Indigenous fashion have gone hand in hand for time  immemorial. From the original "couturiers" of America to those that represent the art form today, we explore the past, present and future of Indigenous design innovation with a compilation of past guest interviews.

Guests featured in order of appearance:

• Christian Allaire joined us in 2020 and 2021
• Orlando Dugi joined us in 2022
• Amber-Dawn Bear Robe joined us in 2020, 2023, and 2024
• Korina Emmerich joined us in 2019
• Jontay Kahm joined us in 2022

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

• Our website and classes
• Our Instagram
• Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles

Today we are podcasting LIVE from Paris!

Haute couture embroidery designer, archivist and author Nadia Albertini joins us to discuss her 3-year project (and book!) uncovering the forgotten history of the French embroidery house of Rébé, who created some of the most spectacular embroideries used by Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy and Cristóbal Balenciaga.

RECOMMENDED READING: Albertini, Nadia. Rébé: broderies haute couture. Montreuil, France: Gourcuff Graden, 2021.

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Fifth generation Diné (Navajo) weavers Lynda Teller Pete and Barbara Teller Ornelas have been instrumental in rewriting the history and narrative surrounding Navajo weaving, a realm that for too long has been dominated by non-Diné voices. This is exemplified by their two groundbreaking books Spider Woman’s Children: Navajo Weavers Today and How to Weave a Navajo Rug and Other Lessons from Spider Woman, as well as their integral role in the creation of the exhibition Shaped by the Loom: Weaving Worlds in the American Southwest at the Bard Graduate Center, New York. Curator Hadley Jensen also joins us. Recommended reading and browsing:

Lynda and Barbara's books: Spider Woman’s Children: Navajo Weavers Today and How to Weave a Navajo Rug and Other Lessons from Spider Woman

Lynda and Barbara's website: https://navajorugweavers.com/

Shaped by the Loom exhibition website: https://www.bgc.bard.edu/exhibitions/exhibitions/117/n-a

This week we take an indepth look into the sacred cultural practice and art form of Diné (Navajo) weaving with internationally acclaimed authors, educators, and fifth generation weavers Lynda Teller Pete and Barbara Teller Ornelas. 

Recommended reading and browsing:

Lynda's and Barbara's books: Spider Woman’s Children: Navajo Weavers Today and How to Weave a Navajo Rug and Other Lessons from Spider Woman

Lynda's and Barbara's website: https://navajorugweavers.com/

In part 2 of this week's episodes about wigs, Jessica Glasscock joins us again to speak about the market for human hair in the 19th century, some of the celebrity hairstylists of the early 20th century, wigs and weaves in black haircare practices and--of course--the importance of wigs in drag culture.

RECOMMENDED READING: Glasscock, Jessica. Wigging Out: Fake Hair That Made Real History. New York: Blackdog & Levinthal, 2023.

Join us all this week to wig out with fashion historian and author, Jessica Glasscock as we explore her recently released book, Wigging Out: Fake Hair That Made Real History.

Recommended Reading: Glasscock, Jessica. Wigging Out: Fake Hair That Make Real History. New York: Blackdog & Levnthal, 2023.

Part two of our interview with Chris Royer who joins us for to discuss her life working alongside the legendary designer Halston and her instrumental role in keeping his legacy alive to this very day.

"Halstonette" Chris Royer joins us to discuss her life working alongside the legendary designer Halston and her instrumental role in keeping his legacy alive to this very day.

From the incredible history of silk marbling to the recent Pet Gala, this week we chat about fashion finds, current museum exhibitions and so much more!

Recommendations: Marbled scarves: https://brittanilocke.com; Pride Month! Instagram recs: @tikkatheiggy, @mattxiv, @alokvmenon, Sasha Velour's The Big Reveal; Asian Civilizations Museum

Perhaps one of the most under-appreciated designers of the 20th century, fashion curator Niloo Paydar joins us to discuss fashion prodigy Stephen Sprouse. Sprouse's fashions defined downtown New York cool during the 1970s and 1980s and set the stage for for so much of what we see in contemporary fashion today.

From groundbreaking covers of Vogue to Beyoncé's Renaissance couture, fashion history is in the making!

RECOMMENDED READING:

Beyoncé x Balmain: https://us.balmain.com/en/experience/renaissance-couture-beyonce-x-balmain

Whalebone corsetry: https://theconversation.com/whales-died-so-women-could-look-like-this-what-shows-like-bridgerton-get-wrong-about-whalebone-and-corsetry-205385?fbclid=PAAaa17wrJb-Qv96smCEwbj5cVoYyTDnjmEv9BSsjsQoHj3fKEIsKraBLxmi8'

106 year old Vogue cover star: https://www.vogue.com/article/apo-whang-od-and-the-indelible-marks-of-filipino-identity

Tilting the Lens/British Vogue: https://tiltingthelens.com/2023/04/18/reframing-fashion-british-vogue-celebrates-disabled-talent-in-historic-new-edition/#:~:text=British%20Vogue%20Launches%20'Reframing%20Fashion,Sinéad%20Burke%20as%20Consultant%20Editor

Exhibitions: Moda Hoy! https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/moda-hoy/index.php

Generation Paper: https://madmuseum.org/exhibition/generation-paper;

Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty: https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/a-line-of-beauty

Dressed is back and to celebrate, we are bringing you an annual listener favorite: our Met Gala coverage!

For forty plus years, Anne Sykes (1818-1890) documented her life through fabric, creating a dress diary comprised of two thousand plus textile swatches that made its way into the hands of today's guest, dress historian Kate Strasdin. Kate unravels the fabrics of Anne's life and the world within which she lived in her new book The Dress Diary of Mrs. Anne Sykes: Secrets from a Victorian Woman's Wardrobe.

In part two of our examination of hip hop style, we chat about iconic sneaker looks, high fashion's love affair with hip hop style and some of hip hop's beauty trends across the decades.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Romero, Elena and Elizabeth Way. Fresh Fly Fabulous: Fifty Years of Hip Hop Style. New York: Rizzoli Electra, 2023.

2023 celebrates the 50th anniversary of the birth of hip hop! All this week co-curators Elena Romero and Elizabeth Way join us to speak about their book and exhibition Fresh Fly Fabulous: Fifty Years of Hip Hop Style which is currently on view at The Museum at FIT through April 23, 2023.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Romero, Elena and Elizabeth Way. Fresh Fly Fabulous: Fifty Years of Hip Hop Style. New York: Rizzoli Electra, 2023.

This week, we celebrate Lebanese fashion history, heritage, and craftsmanship with Joe Challita, founder of the Lebanese Fashion History Foundation. Follow along on Instagram @lebanesefashionhistory or https://www.instagram.com/lebanesefashionhistory/

From the most toxic makeup in history to the world's first sunglasses, we discuss all things fashion and Guinness World Records with Senior Editor Ben Hollingum.

More records to be found at www.guinnessworldrecords.com.

This week we discuss the recent Spring/Summer 2023 couture shows, some upcoming fashion auctions and how April and Cassidy both got suckered in by AI sneakers.

Additional Reading:

• Rococco AI sneakers: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn4Czkct6kl/
• Auctions: Augusta Auctions: https://augusta-auction.com
• André Leon Tally: https://www.christies.com/auction/the-collection-of-andre-leon-talley-20995-nyr
• Celluloid Prison Rings article: https://fashionandrace.org
• George Santos' style: Givhan: https://www.washingtonpost.com/nation/2023/01/24/lying-congressman-his-crewnecks/, Friedman:https://www.nytimes.com/2023/01/17/style/george-santos-style.html
• Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture week: https://hautecouture.fhcm.paris/en/
• Adidas vs. Thom Browne: https://www.gq.com/story/thom-brown-adidas-stripes-lawsuit-verdict 

Saddle up, Dressed listeners! Today Dr. Sonya Abrego joins us to speak about the multicultural influences in American westernwear and how the style--once considered workwear--made the cross-over into high fashion.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Abrego, Sonya. Westernwear: Postwar American Fashion and Culture. New York: Bloomsbury, 2022.

We continue to explore the landmark exhibition Africa Fashion with Dr. Christine Checinska, Senior Curator Africa and Diapsora Fashion at the Victoria and Albert museum.

More on the exhibit can be found here:

https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/africa-fashion

We are joined by artist, designer, and master storyteller Dr. Christine Checinska, Senior Curator Africa and Diapsora Fashion at the Victoria and Albert museum and Lead Curator of the museum's groundbreaking exhibition Africa Fashion. Featuring 45 designers from over 20 countries, the exhibition celebrates the creativity, innovation, history, and global impact of the thriving contemporary African fashion scene.

More on the exhibit can be found here:

https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/africa-fashion

In part two of our examination of Vivienne Westwood's career, Alexander Fury joins us to discuss Westwood's transition from the world of sub-cultural style to the high fashion runway, her obsession with fashion history and details many of her groundbreaking fashion 'firsts.'

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Fury, Alexander. Vivienne Westwood: Catwalk. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2021.

In late December 2022, fashion lost one of its greats. In part one of this two-part episode, Alexander Fury joins us to explore the life and career of Vivienne Westwood from her early years as a kindergarten teacher in the 1960s to her surprising about-face to become one of the defining creative voices in the UK punk scene during the 1970s.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Fury, Alexander. Vivienne Westwood: Catwalk. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2021.

In what has now become an annual tradition, April and Cassidy 'exchange' some of their favorite gifts from fashion's past and present.

This week Modern artist Marcel Duchamp is unmasked as a dandy! Dr. Ingrid Mida joins us to talk about one of art history's greatest minds, his personal relationship with fashion, and the subject matter of dress in his work.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Mida, Ingrid E.. Dressing and Undressing Duchamp: New York: Bloomsbury, 2022.

April and Cassidy continue their overview of episodes across the past five seasons of Dressed, exploring themes from fashion icons to living legends.

With over 350 episodes of Dressed under our proverbial belt, Cassidy and April break down some of their favorites by theme. A fun reminder for our seasoned listeners or a guide for those who may be new to the show! 

Photo detective Maureen Taylor demonstrates her work by solving a family history mystery inside Cassidy's treasured heirloom locket.

Maureen Taylor, one of the world foremost photo detectives, joins us to discuss the role of fashion in her work solving family history mysteries.

• Maureen's Work: www.maureentaylor.com
• Louis Takács's Ellis Island Photography Project: https://scalar.usc.edu/works/let-me-get-there/index

This week, we are joined by theo tyson and Emily Stoehrer, the co-curators of the MFA Boston's current exhibition Dress Up, which celebrates the equally significant role that dress and jewelry play in the deeply personal act and art of dressing up.

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

• Our website and classes
• Our Instagram
• Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles

In April of 2021, COVID unexpectedly took one of the fashion industry's most beloved figures, fashion designer Alber Elbaz. This week we celebrate Elbaz's life and career as curator Ya'ara Keydar joins us to speak about her exhibition Albert Elbaz: The Dream Factory which is now on view at the Design Museum Holon in Holon, Israel.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Keydar, Ya'ara. The Dream Factory. Holon, Israel: Design Museum Holon, 2022.

In part two of this week's episode on Scottish style, we delve deeper into the codification of tartan patterns and the relationship between consumers and manufacturers. We also detail some of the most iconic silhouettes for which tartans were used.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Waine, Rosie. Highland Style: Fashioning Highland Style, c. 1745-1845. Edinburgh: NMSE Publishing, 2022.

This week Dr. Rosie Waine joins us for a fascinating two-part episode we learn all about the history and politics of Highland dress and the origins of Scottish tartans.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Waine, Rosie. Highland Style: Fashioning Highland Style, c. 1745-1845. Edinburgh: NMSE Publishing, 2022.

We continue our behind the seams look at the new Vogue Philippines with Editor-In-Chief Bea Valdes and Fashion Director Pam Quiñones. Learn more at vogue.ph

Vogue has come a long way--literally and figuratively-- since its American debut one hundred and thirty years ago. We celebrate the recent launch of the magazine's 28th global edition, Vogue Philippines, with Editor-In-Chief Bea Valdes and Fashion Director Pam Quiñones. Learn more at vogue.ph 

Founder of the Brooklyn Lace Guild, Elena Kanagy-Loux joins us to discuss her work and the contemporary scene for makers of handmade lace.

Lace maker and historian Elena Kanagy-Loux joins us this week to talk about the history of handmade lace and its makers.

For our annual Halloween episode we are joined by costume designer Mary Vogt who joins us to discuss her iconic costume designs for Batman Returns (1992) and Hocus Pocus (1993).

Suggested Viewing:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBBm6cdgGlA

Internationally beloved teacher, mentor, and fashion authority Tim Gunn joins us to discuss our shared passions for fashion history and the evolution of his career and style.

Further Reading:

• Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet

In part II of our episode on The Met's exhibition Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, we chat with Associate Conservator Elizabeth Shaeffer and Collections Specialist Bethany Gingrich about their roles at The Costume Institute and the hidden labor that goes into mounting blockbuster fashion exhibitions.

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

• Our website and classes
• Our Instagram
• Our bookshelf with over 150 of our favorite fashion history titles

Are upcycled carbon emissions coming soon to your closet? Tune in this week as Nils Altrogge joins us to speak about how the Swiss athletic brand On is using cutting-edge carbon capture technologies to source material for their running shoes and improving the environment in the process.

FURTHER READING:

• https://www.on-running.com/en-us/on/cleancloud

Get groovy with us this week as Helen Jean joins us to talk about the fad for 'paper' fashions of the late 60s as explored in the exhibition Generation Paper: Fast Fashions of the 1960s at the Phoenix Museum of Art.

We continue our deep dive into the inner fashion sanctoms of nineteenth century "dudedom," exploring everything from dude fashion trends to the epic, nationally publicized battle to be "King of the Dudes." 

This week we head back to a time when "dude" meant "dandy," learning all about the now lost fashionable connotations of one of the most popular slang terms in modern parlance.

In part two of this week's episode, we turn our attention to the technology that made machine-made lace possible and speak about some of our favorite pieces in the exhibition up now at Bard Graduate Center in New York City.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Cormack, Emma and Michele Majer, eds. Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen. New York: Bard Graduate Center, 2022.

For more than 500 years, lace has remained at the forefront of fashion. Join us this week as we explore this lace's history as a handmade luxury good and status symbol as we also explore lives of lacemakers and the techniques and tools of the trade.

RECOMMENDED READING:

• Cormack, Emma and Michele Majer, eds. Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen. New York: Bard Graduate Center, 2022.

Director Jia Li and producer Jodie Chan join us to discuss their documentary short Invisible Seams which tells the stories of eight different Asian seamstresses and pattern-makers in New York, painting an intimate portrait of their diverse backgrounds, how they interconnect and together weave the fabric of the New York Fashion industry. The film celebrates the lives of these fascinating and talented women through their own voice and stories.

• Watch the film for free: https://vimeo.com/692427218
• www.invseams.com